Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below) Here is the Link for the FieldPiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter- amzn.to/2AhR6ph Here is the Link for the Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Manifold Gauge Set used in the videos amzn.to/2aenwTq Here is a link to Refrigerant hoses with valves used in the videos amzn.to/2aBumVI Here is a link for RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn Here is the link to the Appion Valve Core Removal Tool- amzn.to/2uYr8WL Here is the link for the Ratcheting Service Wrench amzn.to/2dGV4Nh Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor- amzn.to/2jtsUbJ Here is the link to the CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge- amzn.to/2v1nM3O Here is the Link to the Appion Blue 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose- amzn.to/2uYlVyc Here is the Link to the Appion Red 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose- amzn.to/2uYg6Ro Here is the link to the Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" heavy duty hose straight- amzn.to/2umtcod Here is the link to the pack of 25 C&D valve cores- amzn.to/2J1lurm Here is the link for the C&D Valve Core Wrench, Container, and 3 valve cores- amzn.to/2EVGkps Other tool links can be found in the video description section. Shop through Amazon! Your Purchases through Amazon provide a means for channels such as mine to earn advertising fees from all purchases after clicking through. Prices are the same as normal- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech All of the ACSERVICETECH Playlists- ruclips.net/channel/UCOZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mAplaylists?view_as=public
I'm going on my second year having the Fieldpiece temperature reader and I love it. It helps to get accurate superheat readings. I have thank you in the past and would like to thank you again for all the knowledge that you share with the public. When it comes to HVAC you are the best simplifier of the process!
I purchased a home last year and shortly later discovered a leaky evaporator. Ac guy wanted almost 3k to fix it. I am a master auto technician but have never worked on stationary AC systems. So found you on RUclips and watched your videos religiously. Quickly gained the confidence to do the job myself. I successfully replaced the evap coil and my system made it through a year and runs like a champ. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Ac service tech LLc . Always check for supercool. Very descriptive and helpful. This is how it should be exlplained thank you . Might just have to buy your book to add to my collection.
Absolutely, as you check the charge, make sure to go back in and measure the wb inside and the dry bulb inside to determine the actual moving target superheat, thanks!
As usual you are spot on on your instructional videos. Well presented to benefit both new and green along with seasoned veteran technicians. Keep up the great work, I always enjoy watching. Cheers!!
Never worked on a Refrigerator before but decided to tackle changing the Compressor on my Kenmore Elite...Stopped Cooling. Welded in the New Compressor and Filter/Dryer...pretty proud of myself at this point! Vacuumed out the system and let it set for 24 hours... held a Vacuum... even prouder still!! Put some R134A Refrigerant in but the system refused to get even a little bit cold!!!! System would only come out of Negative to 10!?!? What did I do wrong?
I love how you explain superheat and subcooling to help people learn, But if people dont know how to hook up gauges and know how to read them in the first place they shouldnt be messing with a system there not ready. Good Vid!
Craig...when you initially connect hoses to the system, the hoses are obviously containing air (atmosphere). The hoses are not purged prior to connection to the system so, doesn't this have the potential to introduce non-condensables into the system?
Thanks for doing these videos very informative and great job giving clear explanations of everything ... I do have a question. I have a Goodman system that has a TXV. I do not see a number on the rating plate for target subcooling or superheat. I there a way to look this info?? up.
If the outdoor unit rating plate is wore off or you don't see a target subcooling then we use 8-12 degrees of target subcooling for single and two speed conventional systems. I use 11 degree target, thanks Dan!
Yes, the animated pictures are taking longer than expected but should be out soon. I will let you know when it is out. Do I have you on my email list? If not just send me your contact at info@acservicetech.com The only emails you would get would just be from me, thanks Michael!
Thanks for posting ! Did exactly how you instructed in one of your videos how to test a 2.3 ECM motor with a TR and 120 volts yet every motor I tested so far seems to be hunting ! I used a new furnace Transformer , please advise ? Thanks
Hey Mason, we just got back from camping over the weekend. Sorry I didn't get to you sooner! When you say hunting, that refers to txv or pressures on both the high and low side gauges going back and forth high and then low. You are mentioning a ecm 2.3. Are you saying the motors are ramping up then down, up, then down?
AC Service Tech LLC Welcome back and thanks for replying . Yes the 2.3 ECM motor is ramping up and down not steady like in your video in question . AC was low on charge due to a leak but that since has been fixed yet this Goodman VS furnace continues to freeze up the piston coil above it and I believe it’s because of a weak 2.3 ECM blower motor ! I replaced this motor and all seems good now but was just curious why when bench testing those motors they would ramp up and down ? Thanks
Just for checking the charge? I use the valve core removal tools for vacuum and recovery. You could use the backseating valve core depressors by "C/D Valve". They would work the best for that. I have them linked at amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Thanks Eric S!
Excellent and timely, big thanks. Quick question, if the system was off and you wanted to change out a Schrader, could you just front seat the valve and remove without losing any refrig.? Thank uou
You would still have refrigerant in the line set part connected to the port. You would use a valve core removal tool such as the one linked at amazon.com/shop/acservicetech - with them you can change the valve core/schrader valve out while the system is running or off without loosing refrigerant, thanks James!
Thank you for your videos! I am a fan of your channel and I love it !!! Little question for you. I have a split system. Maybe 12 years. It does not work really well. I have a DT of 15F, but after a while, only warm air. The compressor becomes really really hot. I tried to take the pressure of the Low Side and I have zero psi (even if the machine is off since 1 hour). I do not have any possibility of testing high side. (no port) The compressor is not short ground and the capacitor is good. What would be the next test to do? How can I get cold air at times if no gas in the machine?
That sounds like you have a leak. Residential units don't run that low on refrigerant. It may also not be equyalizing when it is off. You would need find the leak, recover the refrigerant, fix the leak, pressure test, vacuum pump, and then weigh new refrigerant in and start and check it. Make sure you are EPA 608 certified before handing or working on systems with refrigerants, thanks Sly Dem and sorry for the bad news!
Thanks for the videos. Thinking of getting into the field. Question. Would the air already in the gauges mix with the refrigerant as soon as they were connected making the purge unnecessary? I ask because I don’t know. I would think it’d be best to use a can of refrigerant to purge air from the gauges first then connect to service ports on ac.
so I'm teaching myself a/c service/repair... I've got about five window units to practice on. You don't have any videos to help the guys like me who don't have a big central air unit to practice on. almost seems like you're doing these videos for guys who're apprenticing out in the field with a company.
These videos are mainly for those in HVACR school or who are new in the field working under a master tech. I would like to do a video on the total weight method of breaking a vacuum with the total amount of refrigerant for the unit though, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel I didn't see anything written that these videos are for those in hvac school... I'm 59 years old, can't do house construction/remodel any longer because of physical limitations and also too many non-documented immigrants working for cash undercutting us older guys... not too easy for me to get into hvac school at this point... feel I have the right to teach myself as we are still somewhat of a free country. My grandfather went to locksmithing school after he hurt his back. He quit after he realized the instructor assisted the younger students and sort of pushed him aside. I don't have the money for school and I am sort of doing this at my pace in my garage workshop. Some of the hvac videos on RUclips are shot in a school classroom. So in a sense, I'm doing online school. But I'll find the information I need here on RUclips and in some text books... I already know that the industry doesn't want a guy my age. I spoke to a master tech the other day about being able to get set up once I learn. My fear was not being able to get licensed because I did not go to traditional school or not having worked as an apprentice for 5 years. He said I could set up my own business tomorrow... I'm not going to be doing the 5 year apprentice at my age. I'll study hard 10 hours every day and practice on equipment that people give me. Once you get to be my age, our new screwed up society is happy to watch me beg for money and food in the street - call me loser instead of letting me into a new field. When I went to buy a reclaimer unit from a guy for $400 , he met me in public with his nagging bitch wife. she kept telling him to hurry. by not meeting at his house, I could not plug in the machine... he had other tools to sell. I asked next time we meet "can you spend a few minutes here with me?" his answer: "I'm not here to educate the public." I met him on time, paid him exactly what he wanted $400 and that was the bullshit I get? So we live in a world now that's one size fits all, don't get injured because you'll be left out to rot. I've already scrimped and saved to by most of the tools needed to do this business. I feel I have a right to switch gears and teach myself with the aid of books and videos.
@@earthstewardude I have people telling me all the time that they are switching career and that the videos have helped. As long as someone has an epa 608 cert before working with refrigerants then they are legally fine. You asked why I don't have certain videos. I answered with my target audience. I have to have a target audience otherwise I would be all over the place. That doesn't mean others can't benefit as well. I am not one to drive people into going to school or going into debt at all. I don't like people going into debt to learn to work. Work and learn at the same time is my preference. I am a licensed teacher so it is just a target audience. Sorry that you didn't like my answer to your question. I try to answer as many questions from everybody as i can and I am running through fairly quickly to try to catch up. Sometimes things and emotional terms get lost in the communication, thanks! I think if someone is a problem solver, it is never too late to be that as a profession regardless of the profession.
If you are checking a system with a txv then yes. If you are checking one with a fixed orifice then you could just connect to the low side but I connect to both just in case I see some other issue or problem, thanks
wow...thanks for the quick response. I'm going to check my system it has a piston. I had someone come out and supposedly charge it a little. He did the whole gauge thing and attached the thermocouple. The gauges I didn't watch too close, but his temp meter read about 68 degree and it was about 83 degree outside that day. next day ac still seemed not to cool, I only put my thermocouple meter on the suction line and I got about 68 -69 degrees. Even without putting gauges on something seems a miss here. He claims that he got superheat down to about 11. I have my own gauges and going to take a look this afternoon. Something just seems incorrect, maybe he was not as experienced as he thought
Hi thought there was a private message system on here to send you the info, cause I know there are haters on here. Guess RUclips did away with the feature this past july 2018
Ha ha, I'm an HVACR teacherand HVACR Business owner. Have you checked out the book I just wrote and published? The full outline is on the website and I have been working on this for 3 years to complete it along with all the images, thanks! www.acservicetech.com/the-book
Heat pump split system. Suspect a very small leak in the indoor coil. ? If this is so and want to replace coil can a micro-channel coil be installed and do you size that coil equivalent to the existing coil.
Thank you for your great insight. Love the new video camera. Looks cleans. Also Where can we give the EPA exam in New Jersey ? Can I buy refrigerant online?
hi, let's say you don't have hoses with the shut off valve. can you just cap the middle port of the manifold and put refrigerant in red hose back to low side with this procedure? thanks.
You would still need a low loss fitting on the red hose but yes you don't have to have the yellow hose and even if you did, it is a great idea to cap off that port and charge through but you still need to purge the air there first though, thanks
You would still check delta T 18-21 to confirm there is a good heat transfer with a txv. A piston system could be charged correctly and still be less than 18-21 degrees though. If it is 18-21 it would be great though. That delta t 18-21 is for single and two speed conventional systems though, not minisplits, thanks Blade!
That is the allowable amount that can be vented via de minimus stated at epa.gov/608 . This amount was reduced due to charging the liquid back into the unit, thanks
Do you mean with a recovery machine? Here is is in this video- ruclips.net/video/os9gKLf7LJg/видео.html -I also purge air in this video you watched, thanks
Hey Robert, check out these two videos on checking the charge of a blend refrigerant. These are checking an R438A system which is MO99 and is the same process as R422B. You would just use the R422B dew and bubble temps- ruclips.net/video/Kwa3IBTumiw/видео.html - ruclips.net/video/uLsLDtA23lA/видео.html
After you've disconnected your guages and done the bubble leak detection, do you need to blow out your gauges with nitrogen? Thanks btw, very helpful video.
AC Service Tech LLC. Will just compressed air blown through the rubber charging lines and gauges clear the residue refrigerant before using the set-up to check a different type of refrigerant?? Or is nitrogen better to clear lines/gauges?
Hi mate I have a basic technical question What's the difference between the reverse cycle air conditioner and heat pump? Which one are we allowed to measure the superheat or sub cooling(according to metering device of course) ?
We measure the superheat with an active fixed orifice metering device in cooling mode and subcooling with an active txv metering device in cooling mode, thanks
If I understand your question then there is no difference but that there are extra components to facilitate the refrigerant flow direction change but we charge them in cooling mode thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel I spoke about a problem with fujitsu technical support and I asked them I want to measure the sub cooling to measure the refrigerant lack(exv was metering device of unit on outdoor unit installed) . He told me no you can't because it's a air conditioner not a heat pump So I didn't understand why can I not measure sub cooling on aircondiotner or a heat pump That's the reason I want to know the difference between air onditioner and heat pump Cause most of your tutorials about measuring superheat or sub ooling you haven't mentioned any difference in this 2 types of unit Hope I clarified my problem Thnks
For minisplit units, most have an inverter compressor so the manufacturer does not specify a charging method other than the total weight method and often will only give a vapor service port to avoid techs charging with subcooling unfortunately. We only use subcooling on single or two speed compressor units with a txv as the metering device, thanks!
Well...it looks like my not giving up on the First-Time-Ever Refrigerator Repair is paying off Dividends in the form of a Repaired Unit! Freezer Temp started at +69 degrees...it is now +23 degrees. There were 3 issues that I encountered after getting the Compressor and Filter/Dryer Welded In: 1.) The Compressor would not Run. Turns out, the Male Pins on the Compressor itself are 180 degrees from the Old to the New. Fix...Rotate the Female Plug so that the two Power Pins engage leaving one unused Male Pin floating in mid air. Hoakey...yeah but it works. I'll call Sears Parts Direct & see if they have a proper Harness. 2.) One of my Welds at the Compressor/Condenser Joint let go after 24 hours. Fix...Reweld Joint and this time use a Mirror to Inspect the backside of the Weld. 3.) System would not come up out of Vacuum all the way with R134A Refrigerant installed thus unit would not get Cold. Fix...Cut Capillary Tube at Filter/Dryer and Inspect. Found Silver Solder Wicked up to end of Capillary Tube and Welded off Opening. Unweld joint and Reweld with Capillary Tube further into Filter/Dryer...not too far though. Pulled a Vacuum yesterday and let it set overnight...no Leaks. Charge the System with Refrigerant.
Hello there. My name is Yvan Bedard from Canada, Quebec, and would like to know if its possible to check my refrigerant charge in the winter. I am slowly getting equipped so as to be able to personally do the most of the maintenance on my system as possible. I just bought a set of gadges and temperature reading sensors. And also your book which I expect soon. My indoor furnace has a piston device. Over here the winters are pretty cold, but lately it stays somewhere in between -2 and -20 Celsius. In short I just want to be able to know if I have enough refrigerant or not. I say this because lately I have found my heat pump covered with ice. So after looking at a lot of video's I changed the timer on it. It was set at 90 Minutes. So I after eliminating the ice I set the timer at 30 Minutes and my ice problems seem to be ok.At least now I know my defrost works. But I find that the Aux Heating (Heating Strips) come on to often. Maybe its normal, I'm not really sure. Thats why I want to know if its because my refrigerant is to low. By the way, I do like your videos on you tube. You seem to me as someone who takes what you do seriously and I like the way you explain things in good detail. Just wanted to say thanks for sharing your knowledge to us all. Hope you may have some answers for me . Yvan Bedard.
Thanks Yvan, You can only really check the charge on a day that is 40 degrees F and higher by restricting the airflow in cooling mode to a sat temp of 90 to 105 degrees F if you have a txv metering device at the indoor coil and the indoor temp is 70 degrees F or higher. This procedure is mentioned on page 148-149. Otherwise, we recover the charge, pressure test, vacuum, and weigh in the correct amount of refrigerant based on the unit's rating plate "factory charge" and line set size and length. This procedure is mentioned on 83-84, thanks!
Hi great video! I was wondering, it’s ok to use the suction side as a liquid charge? And why. Also on his method do you leave the refrigerant bottle upside down for liquid and you throttle the refrigerant with the gauge know on the low side or the knob on the refrigerant bottle. Thank you!
hey there, nice basic charging video,, i got slightly more complicated question, im working on a 10 system that has a dual evap slab coil with two txv's, outside two 5 ton condensers, R22 system, not cooing very good, has subcool of about 5 degrees, head pressure about 190psi, suction about 80, temp diff across evap 13 degrees, with subcool at 5, im thinking low charge but adding freon doesnt change head pressure or subcool,, i do notice both liquid lines get cooling the further away from condenser, temp drop of 6 to 8 degrees from outside to inside, new liquid line dryers so not thinking restriction in those, so what should i be looking at..
I have valves on the end of my hoses so they still have vapor only pressure. That small amount of vapor is vented from the hoses after disconnecting. Liquid pressure has roughly 11 times more refrigerant so charging the liquid back into the system before disconnecting is helpful, thanks
Instead of using a vcrt with the rectorseal, I use a simple connector like this with the schrader/depressor removed. No need to clean or worry about leak detector getting in the vcrt www.amazon.com/dp/B0015A16X4/?ref=exp_acservicetech_lv_dp_vv_d Also, if I hook up gauges instead of quick connects checking a charge and realize it is ok, I put a ball connector on the charge port instead of attaching the hose. Saves some vapor refrigerant loss when disconnecting but not a big deal I guess.
The problem with subcooling measurements is that it often flat-lines from approximately 90% to 110% of proper charge. It also does not take in account the heat load indoors. If house temps and humidity are out of control, a TXV will drive wide open and then simply act as a fixed metering device. Superheat is still your best option.
I am sorry but you can't use superheat when charging txv systems because no matter what you do with the refrigerant charge, superheat won't change as long as there is some liquid heading to the thermostatic expansion valve. It is likely that you are under charging or over charging systems that you are working on if that is the case. Most likely over charging. I am a licensed teacher of HVACR. What you are saying is not what manufacturers recommend or any field practice. Subcooling does not flat line. It will change depending on the amount of refrigerant in the system, thanks Thomas
Dude get yourself a set of Testo or field piece digital guages.. this will make your job easier and more accurate. They both come with probes to be able to hook up and see superheat and subcooling much easier..analog gauges are dated and not as accurate with ambient temp swings.
Hey David, have you looked up "acservicetech SMAN460 playlist"? Most of my videos are for newer technicians and those in school and most of them start of with compound gauge sets but I did some with the sman460 as well, thanks!
Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech
For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below)
Here is the Link for the FieldPiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter- amzn.to/2AhR6ph
Here is the Link for the Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Manifold Gauge Set used in the videos amzn.to/2aenwTq
Here is a link to Refrigerant hoses with valves used in the videos amzn.to/2aBumVI
Here is a link for RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn
Here is the link to the Appion Valve Core Removal Tool- amzn.to/2uYr8WL
Here is the link for the Ratcheting Service Wrench amzn.to/2dGV4Nh
Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor- amzn.to/2jtsUbJ
Here is the link to the CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge- amzn.to/2v1nM3O
Here is the Link to the Appion Blue 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose- amzn.to/2uYlVyc
Here is the Link to the Appion Red 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose- amzn.to/2uYg6Ro
Here is the link to the Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" heavy duty hose straight- amzn.to/2umtcod
Here is the link to the pack of 25 C&D valve cores- amzn.to/2J1lurm
Here is the link for the C&D Valve Core Wrench, Container, and 3 valve cores- amzn.to/2EVGkps
Other tool links can be found in the video description section.
Shop through Amazon! Your Purchases through Amazon provide a means for channels such as mine to earn advertising fees from all purchases after clicking through. Prices are the same as normal- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
All of the ACSERVICETECH Playlists- ruclips.net/channel/UCOZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mAplaylists?view_as=public
Literally no one else has this basic video, congrats on giving everyone what they actually wanted
Thanks a lot urjnlegend!
urjnlegend I agree 1000%
Thank you ! You are 10 times better than my current professor. I just go to class because I can actually get my hands on a unit in a learning setting.
I'm going on my second year having the Fieldpiece temperature reader and I love it. It helps to get accurate superheat readings. I have thank you in the past and would like to thank you again for all the knowledge that you share with the public. When it comes to HVAC you are the best simplifier of the process!
Thanks a lot JJ!
I purchased a home last year and shortly later discovered a leaky evaporator. Ac guy wanted almost 3k to fix it. I am a master auto technician but have never worked on stationary AC systems. So found you on RUclips and watched your videos religiously. Quickly gained the confidence to do the job myself. I successfully replaced the evap coil and my system made it through a year and runs like a champ. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Yeah as long as you are 608 certified, it is doable, thanks a lot Jerrod!
Ac service tech LLc . Always check for supercool.
Very descriptive and helpful. This is how it should be exlplained thank you . Might just have to buy your book to add to my collection.
Thanks a lot SCS! The full outline and sample pages are at www.acservicetech.com and the book is available for purchase there and on amazon, thanks!
Very nice touch to use core removal tool to check for leaks so as not to get any leak detector fluid in the unit's ports! Thanks for the vid!
Thanks Brian!
Finally some who knows how to properly check the charge of a system. One word of caution superheat varies with indoor load (hot house). 👍
Absolutely, as you check the charge, make sure to go back in and measure the wb inside and the dry bulb inside to determine the actual moving target superheat, thanks!
I WORK 8 years for HVAC company I never saw any one work professional as this men. Great. God bless you.
May the Lord Bless you too Fortino! Thanks!
As usual you are spot on on your instructional videos. Well presented to benefit both new and green along with seasoned veteran technicians. Keep up the great work, I always enjoy watching. Cheers!!
Thanks a lot Paul! Always nice to hear from you!
I have said it before, you sir are a great teacher. Thanks so much for all you do for us. May god bless you and yours.
May the Lord Bless you too Drifter436! Thanks
Never worked on a Refrigerator before but decided to tackle changing the Compressor on my Kenmore Elite...Stopped Cooling. Welded in the New Compressor and Filter/Dryer...pretty proud of myself at this point! Vacuumed out the system and let it set for 24 hours... held a Vacuum... even prouder still!! Put some R134A Refrigerant in but the system refused to get even a little bit cold!!!! System would only come out of Negative to 10!?!? What did I do wrong?
I love how you explain superheat and subcooling to help people learn, But if people dont know how to hook up gauges and know how to read them in the first place they shouldnt be messing with a system there not ready. Good Vid!
Thanks Bernie!
New to the trade and this was super helpful
Thanks a lot Lazerbeam!
Love your videos man. Thanks again
Very simple thanks for the easy overview.
Thanks Wes!
Craig...when you initially connect hoses to the system, the hoses are obviously containing air (atmosphere). The hoses are not purged prior to connection to the system so, doesn't this have the potential to introduce non-condensables into the system?
Thanks for doing these videos very informative and great job giving clear explanations of everything ... I do have a question. I have a Goodman system that has a TXV. I do not see a number on the rating plate for target subcooling or superheat. I there a way to look this info?? up.
If the outdoor unit rating plate is wore off or you don't see a target subcooling then we use 8-12 degrees of target subcooling for single and two speed conventional systems. I use 11 degree target, thanks Dan!
AC Service Tech LLC
Great thanks. I appreciate the reply. I'll break out the gauges and take a look.
Awesome video!
Thanks Bob!
This is a great channel! Thank you for the videos
Thanks a lot Dillon!
very good for DIYers, thank you ...
Really excellent video. Very very informative and easy to follow. Thank you. Are you writing a book ?
Yes, the animated pictures are taking longer than expected but should be out soon. I will let you know when it is out. Do I have you on my email list? If not just send me your contact at info@acservicetech.com The only emails you would get would just be from me, thanks Michael!
Thanks for posting !
Did exactly how you instructed in one of your videos how to test a 2.3 ECM motor with a TR and 120 volts yet every motor I tested so far seems to be hunting !
I used a new furnace Transformer , please advise ?
Thanks
Hey Mason, we just got back from camping over the weekend. Sorry I didn't get to you sooner! When you say hunting, that refers to txv or pressures on both the high and low side gauges going back and forth high and then low. You are mentioning a ecm 2.3. Are you saying the motors are ramping up then down, up, then down?
AC Service Tech LLC Welcome back and thanks for replying . Yes the 2.3 ECM motor is ramping up and down not steady like in your video in question . AC was low on charge due to a leak but that since has been fixed yet this Goodman VS furnace continues to freeze up the piston coil above it and I believe it’s because of a weak 2.3 ECM blower motor ! I replaced this motor and all seems good now but was just curious why when bench testing those motors they would ramp up and down ?
Thanks
Love your videos. Can I use a quality Fluke 62 Max infrared to check the temp at the suction line and the liquid line?
I like to use the core removal tools on the low and hi side to minimize refrigerant loss. Does this sound like a good practice? Great videos.
Just for checking the charge? I use the valve core removal tools for vacuum and recovery. You could use the backseating valve core depressors by "C/D Valve". They would work the best for that. I have them linked at amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Thanks Eric S!
Hey Craig. Can you please make a video on how you diagnose a system when you first arrive at a job site. Thanks.
JiggyPatel thanks for letting me know what you would like to see!
AC Service Tech LLC just how you diagnosis a problem when you walk in to a service call. What is the first thing you check ? And so on.
Excellent and timely, big thanks.
Quick question, if the system was off and you wanted to change out a Schrader, could you just front seat the valve and remove without losing any refrig.?
Thank uou
You would still have refrigerant in the line set part connected to the port. You would use a valve core removal tool such as the one linked at amazon.com/shop/acservicetech - with them you can change the valve core/schrader valve out while the system is running or off without loosing refrigerant, thanks James!
AC Service Tech LLC
Thanks for that tip, the less mistakes the better.
Thank you for your videos! I am a fan of your channel and I love it !!!
Little question for you. I have a split system. Maybe 12 years. It does not work really well. I have a DT of 15F, but after a while, only warm air. The compressor becomes really really hot. I tried to take the pressure of the Low Side and I have zero psi (even if the machine is off since 1 hour). I do not have any possibility of testing high side. (no port) The compressor is not short ground and the capacitor is good. What would be the next test to do? How can I get cold air at times if no gas in the machine?
That sounds like you have a leak. Residential units don't run that low on refrigerant. It may also not be equyalizing when it is off. You would need find the leak, recover the refrigerant, fix the leak, pressure test, vacuum pump, and then weigh new refrigerant in and start and check it. Make sure you are EPA 608 certified before handing or working on systems with refrigerants, thanks Sly Dem and sorry for the bad news!
Thanks for you reply. We really enjoy your videos. Please continu ! Take care
Great Work -
Thanks Trance!
Thanks for the videos. Thinking of getting into the field. Question. Would the air already in the gauges mix with the refrigerant as soon as they were connected making the purge unnecessary? I ask because I don’t know.
I would think it’d be best to use a can of refrigerant to purge air from the gauges first then connect to service ports on ac.
The air is not under pressure and the pressure of the refrigerant will force the air close to the manifold to purge, thanks!
Great video thanks so much for sharing
Thanks Darren!
so on cars u have to disconnect it the same way, even if the engine was running, or only when the engine was running ?
so I'm teaching myself a/c service/repair... I've got about five window units to practice on. You don't have any videos to help the guys like me who don't have a big central air unit to practice on. almost seems like you're doing these videos for guys who're apprenticing out in the field with a company.
These videos are mainly for those in HVACR school or who are new in the field working under a master tech. I would like to do a video on the total weight method of breaking a vacuum with the total amount of refrigerant for the unit though, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel I didn't see anything written that these videos are for those in hvac school... I'm 59 years old, can't do house construction/remodel any longer because of physical limitations and also too many non-documented immigrants working for cash undercutting us older guys... not too easy for me to get into hvac school at this point... feel I have the right to teach myself as we are still somewhat of a free country. My grandfather went to locksmithing school after he hurt his back. He quit after he realized the instructor assisted the younger students and sort of pushed him aside. I don't have the money for school and I am sort of doing this at my pace in my garage workshop. Some of the hvac videos on RUclips are shot in a school classroom. So in a sense, I'm doing online school. But I'll find the information I need here on RUclips and in some text books... I already know that the industry doesn't want a guy my age. I spoke to a master tech the other day about being able to get set up once I learn. My fear was not being able to get licensed because I did not go to traditional school or not having worked as an apprentice for 5 years. He said I could set up my own business tomorrow... I'm not going to be doing the 5 year apprentice at my age. I'll study hard 10 hours every day and practice on equipment that people give me. Once you get to be my age, our new screwed up society is happy to watch me beg for money and food in the street - call me loser instead of letting me into a new field. When I went to buy a reclaimer unit from a guy for $400 , he met me in public with his nagging bitch wife. she kept telling him to hurry. by not meeting at his house, I could not plug in the machine... he had other tools to sell. I asked next time we meet "can you spend a few minutes here with me?" his answer: "I'm not here to educate the public." I met him on time, paid him exactly what he wanted $400 and that was the bullshit I get? So we live in a world now that's one size fits all, don't get injured because you'll be left out to rot. I've already scrimped and saved to by most of the tools needed to do this business. I feel I have a right to switch gears and teach myself with the aid of books and videos.
@@earthstewardude I have people telling me all the time that they are switching career and that the videos have helped. As long as someone has an epa 608 cert before working with refrigerants then they are legally fine. You asked why I don't have certain videos. I answered with my target audience. I have to have a target audience otherwise I would be all over the place. That doesn't mean others can't benefit as well. I am not one to drive people into going to school or going into debt at all. I don't like people going into debt to learn to work. Work and learn at the same time is my preference. I am a licensed teacher so it is just a target audience. Sorry that you didn't like my answer to your question. I try to answer as many questions from everybody as i can and I am running through fairly quickly to try to catch up. Sometimes things and emotional terms get lost in the communication, thanks! I think if someone is a problem solver, it is never too late to be that as a profession regardless of the profession.
The type of refrigerant is important
Absolutely!
Great videos!!! Very clear. I do have a question. If you are just checking charge on r22, do you have to still connect low side and high side gauges?
If you are checking a system with a txv then yes. If you are checking one with a fixed orifice then you could just connect to the low side but I connect to both just in case I see some other issue or problem, thanks
wow...thanks for the quick response. I'm going to check my system it has a piston. I had someone come out and supposedly charge it a little. He did the whole gauge thing and attached the thermocouple. The gauges I didn't watch too close, but his temp meter read about 68 degree and it was about 83 degree outside that day. next day ac still seemed not to cool, I only put my thermocouple meter on the suction line and I got about 68 -69 degrees. Even without putting gauges on something seems a miss here. He claims that he got superheat down to about 11.
I have my own gauges and going to take a look this afternoon. Something just seems incorrect, maybe he was not as experienced as he thought
Let me know vapor psi, liquid psi, superheat, subcooling, indoor wb, outdoor temp, vapor temp, liquid temp and delta T across the evap coil, thanks
Hi thought there was a private message system on here to send you the info, cause I know there are haters on here. Guess RUclips did away with the feature this past july 2018
you could just type the numbers in the comment section or if you want you can email at info@acservicetech.com
great teaching you are in the wrong field for your knowledge content thanks
Ha ha, I'm an HVACR teacherand HVACR Business owner. Have you checked out the book I just wrote and published? The full outline is on the website and I have been working on this for 3 years to complete it along with all the images, thanks! www.acservicetech.com/the-book
Heat pump split system. Suspect a very small leak in the indoor coil. ? If this is so and want to replace coil can a micro-channel coil be installed and do you size that coil equivalent to the existing coil.
I would just install as standard aluminum tubing and fin evap coil, not micro channel, thanks
Thank you for your great insight. Love the new video camera. Looks cleans. Also Where can we give the EPA exam in New Jersey ? Can I buy refrigerant online?
You can ask the supply houses such as Johnstone, ACIT, CMCTHS, or Cumberland County Tech night adult programs, thanks JiggyPatel!
AC Service Tech LLC thanks you Craig. Your awesome. 😀
Do you have a Qwik Charge adapter too? how does that affect the intervals and length of opening the low side valve?
Yes I have the Kwik charge and you can open it up much longer as it seems to be a pretty good quality vaporizer, thanks
What was the indoor return air temperature during this?
On a heat pump, do the readings differ depending on whether it is in heat or cool mode?
absolutely but we typically check the charge in cooling mode, thanks!
hi, let's say you don't have hoses with the shut off valve. can you just cap the middle port of the manifold and put refrigerant in red hose back to low side with this procedure? thanks.
You would still need a low loss fitting on the red hose but yes you don't have to have the yellow hose and even if you did, it is a great idea to cap off that port and charge through but you still need to purge the air there first though, thanks
So you don't have to check the temp inside at the evap? I thought I've seen you check that on some systems.
You would still check delta T 18-21 to confirm there is a good heat transfer with a txv. A piston system could be charged correctly and still be less than 18-21 degrees though. If it is 18-21 it would be great though. That delta t 18-21 is for single and two speed conventional systems though, not minisplits, thanks Blade!
What did you do with the refrigerant still left in the hose after you disconnected?
That is the allowable amount that can be vented via de minimus stated at epa.gov/608 . This amount was reduced due to charging the liquid back into the unit, thanks
If you were working on a r-22 unit and the next unit you go to is a 410a unit, do you purge the 22 out the same way you would as purging air?
Look up"acservicetech disconnect procedure" you shouldn't have much left to purge, only vapor, thanks!
Sir please can you make video for purging air from domestic air conditioner without recovery machine
Do you mean with a recovery machine? Here is is in this video- ruclips.net/video/os9gKLf7LJg/видео.html -I also purge air in this video you watched, thanks
On the press/temp dials of gauge set do you use the R-22 readings if you are using 422 refrigerant? Thanks, I'm new to all of this.
Hey Robert, check out these two videos on checking the charge of a blend refrigerant. These are checking an R438A system which is MO99 and is the same process as R422B. You would just use the R422B dew and bubble temps- ruclips.net/video/Kwa3IBTumiw/видео.html - ruclips.net/video/uLsLDtA23lA/видео.html
Thanks for your help
Can u do the same video but digital manifold gauge
I am looking to, thanks William!
After you've disconnected your guages and done the bubble leak detection, do you need to blow out your gauges with nitrogen? Thanks btw, very helpful video.
You don't have to unless you are checking the charge of a system with a differnt refrigerant suchas R410a and then R-22, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel Awesome,ty.
AC Service Tech LLC. Will just compressed air blown through the rubber charging lines and gauges clear the residue refrigerant before using the set-up to check a different type of refrigerant?? Or is nitrogen better to clear lines/gauges?
Thanks or the great video. Question? Do you only purges the gauges when the system is off?
You can do that while the system is on or off. If it is on, make sure that you don't have both handles open at the same time, thanks
Hi mate I have a basic technical question
What's the difference between the reverse cycle air conditioner and heat pump? Which one are we allowed to measure the superheat or sub cooling(according to metering device of course) ?
We measure the superheat with an active fixed orifice metering device in cooling mode and subcooling with an active txv metering device in cooling mode, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel
My main question is
What is the difference between the reverse cycle air conditioner and a heat pump
If I understand your question then there is no difference but that there are extra components to facilitate the refrigerant flow direction change but we charge them in cooling mode thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel
I spoke about a problem with fujitsu technical support and I asked them I want to measure the sub cooling to measure the refrigerant lack(exv was metering device of unit on outdoor unit installed) . He told me no you can't because it's a air conditioner not a heat pump
So I didn't understand why can I not measure sub cooling on aircondiotner or a heat pump
That's the reason I want to know the difference between air onditioner and heat pump
Cause most of your tutorials about measuring superheat or sub ooling you haven't mentioned any difference in this 2 types of unit
Hope I clarified my problem
Thnks
For minisplit units, most have an inverter compressor so the manufacturer does not specify a charging method other than the total weight method and often will only give a vapor service port to avoid techs charging with subcooling unfortunately. We only use subcooling on single or two speed compressor units with a txv as the metering device, thanks!
Well...it looks like my not giving up on the First-Time-Ever Refrigerator Repair is paying off Dividends in the form of a Repaired Unit! Freezer Temp started at +69 degrees...it is now +23 degrees.
There were 3 issues that I encountered after getting the Compressor and Filter/Dryer Welded In:
1.) The Compressor would not Run. Turns out, the Male Pins on the Compressor itself are 180 degrees from the Old to the New. Fix...Rotate the Female Plug so that the two Power Pins engage leaving one unused Male Pin floating in mid air. Hoakey...yeah but it works. I'll call Sears Parts Direct & see if they have a proper Harness.
2.) One of my Welds at the Compressor/Condenser Joint let go after 24 hours. Fix...Reweld Joint and this time use a Mirror to Inspect the backside of the Weld.
3.) System would not come up out of Vacuum all the way with R134A Refrigerant installed thus unit would not get Cold. Fix...Cut Capillary Tube at Filter/Dryer and Inspect. Found Silver Solder Wicked up to end of Capillary Tube and Welded off Opening. Unweld joint and Reweld with Capillary Tube further into Filter/Dryer...not too far though.
Pulled a Vacuum yesterday and let it set overnight...no Leaks. Charge the System with Refrigerant.
Hello there.
My name is Yvan Bedard from Canada, Quebec, and would like to know if its possible to check my refrigerant charge in the winter. I am slowly getting equipped so as to be able to personally do the most of the maintenance on my system as possible. I just bought a set of gadges and temperature reading sensors. And also your book which I expect soon. My indoor furnace has a piston device. Over here the winters are pretty cold, but lately it stays somewhere in between -2 and -20 Celsius. In short I just want to be able to know if I have enough refrigerant or not. I say this because lately I have found my heat pump covered with ice. So after looking at a lot of video's I changed the timer on it. It was set at 90 Minutes. So I after eliminating the ice I set the timer at 30 Minutes and my ice problems seem to be ok.At least now I know my defrost works. But I find that the Aux Heating (Heating Strips) come on to often. Maybe its normal, I'm not really sure. Thats why I want to know if its because my refrigerant is to low.
By the way, I do like your videos on you tube. You seem to me as someone who takes what you do seriously and I like the way you explain things in good detail.
Just wanted to say thanks for sharing your knowledge to us all. Hope you may have some answers for me .
Yvan Bedard.
Thanks Yvan, You can only really check the charge on a day that is 40 degrees F and higher by restricting the airflow in cooling mode to a sat temp of 90 to 105 degrees F if you have a txv metering device at the indoor coil and the indoor temp is 70 degrees F or higher. This procedure is mentioned on page 148-149. Otherwise, we recover the charge, pressure test, vacuum, and weigh in the correct amount of refrigerant based on the unit's rating plate "factory charge" and line set size and length. This procedure is mentioned on 83-84, thanks!
Hi great video! I was wondering, it’s ok to use the suction side as a liquid charge? And why. Also on his method do you leave the refrigerant bottle upside down for liquid and you throttle the refrigerant with the gauge know on the low side or the knob on the refrigerant bottle. Thank you!
I meter the liquid refrigerant slowly a little at a time into the low side of the system which is the large tube vapor port during ac mode, thanks!
can i use type k thermocouple to take line temp as well ? it came with my fluke meter
Absolutely. You can tape it on with electrical tape and if desired, add a piece of armoflex insulation to make sure it is accurate, thanks!
thanks for the this info... can you use an laser thermometer to get accurate temp reading?
hey there, nice basic charging video,, i got slightly more complicated question, im working on a 10 system that has a dual evap slab coil with two txv's, outside two 5 ton condensers, R22 system, not cooing very good, has subcool of about 5 degrees, head pressure about 190psi, suction about 80, temp diff across evap 13 degrees, with subcool at 5, im thinking low charge but adding freon doesnt change head pressure or subcool,, i do notice both liquid lines get cooling the further away from condenser, temp drop of 6 to 8 degrees from outside to inside, new liquid line dryers so not thinking restriction in those, so what should i be looking at..
any advice will be welcomed
sir, I want to download your video for my learning purpose, please give me permission.
I only grant licenses for purchase. If you would like to purchase a license then please email me at info@acservicetech.com thanks!
I don't understand if you completely disconnected the hoses at the end why are the quages still reading pressure shouldn't the Guage set be at 0?
I have valves on the end of my hoses so they still have vapor only pressure. That small amount of vapor is vented from the hoses after disconnecting. Liquid pressure has roughly 11 times more refrigerant so charging the liquid back into the system before disconnecting is helpful, thanks
Instead of using a vcrt with the rectorseal, I use a simple connector like this with the schrader/depressor removed. No need to clean or worry about leak detector getting in the vcrt www.amazon.com/dp/B0015A16X4/?ref=exp_acservicetech_lv_dp_vv_d
Also, if I hook up gauges instead of quick connects checking a charge and realize it is ok, I put a ball connector on the charge port instead of attaching the hose. Saves some vapor refrigerant loss when disconnecting but not a big deal I guess.
Yes both very nice tactics! Great job kneeman7!
The problem with subcooling measurements is that it often flat-lines from approximately 90% to 110% of proper charge. It also does not take in account the heat load indoors. If house temps and humidity are out of control, a TXV will drive wide open and then simply act as a fixed metering device. Superheat is still your best option.
I am sorry but you can't use superheat when charging txv systems because no matter what you do with the refrigerant charge, superheat won't change as long as there is some liquid heading to the thermostatic expansion valve. It is likely that you are under charging or over charging systems that you are working on if that is the case. Most likely over charging. I am a licensed teacher of HVACR. What you are saying is not what manufacturers recommend or any field practice. Subcooling does not flat line. It will change depending on the amount of refrigerant in the system, thanks Thomas
Dude get yourself a set of Testo or field piece digital guages.. this will make your job easier and more accurate. They both come with probes to be able to hook up and see superheat and subcooling much easier..analog gauges are dated and not as accurate with ambient temp swings.
Hey David, have you looked up "acservicetech SMAN460 playlist"? Most of my videos are for newer technicians and those in school and most of them start of with compound gauge sets but I did some with the sman460 as well, thanks!