what was the symptom you were addressing - over flowing carb? I have just fitted a new mk1 and starting is reakky difficuly not too bad when running. I have a 1965 Bantam D7 converted for trials and was advise to go up form the 22mm carb outlet to 24mm, I have to set the mixture screw to 1/4 turn out rather than 1 1/2 turns so the pilot jet may be too small as they sent me the same size as on the original monoblock. Any thoughts welcome
Hi. My initial problem was flooding, so I decided to set the level to the factory recommendation. I’m no expert, especially on Bantams. 2 stroke Amal’s are generally different to 4 stroke - is your 24mm carb a 2 stroke version? I’d strongly suggest reading the excellent resources on the Burlan site amalcarb.co.uk/downloads/ Amongst other things, the notes here explain tuning Amals at four distinct stages of throttle opening, which is key to tuning them properly. Good luck.
Good video. I see how you did this but another way is to hold the float bowl tight against the bottom of the carb, turn the fuel on for a few seconds and then shut it off, then carefully lower it away from the carb so you see what the level of the fuel is, kind of simple actually.
Fair enough but how do you make allowance for the fuel displaced by the float? The level in to bowl once removed will be lower than it was when attached to the carb, (My method was 'over-the-top' though 🙂)
Very informative and helpful video! I read the same article on their website since I was having trouble with my float level too. I read the part about checking the fuel level by attaching a piece of clear tubing to the bottom of the float chamber and it was a bit confusing at first when reading it and I said myself, it would be nice if there was a video demonstrating how to do this and boy am I glad I found your video! I just had one question for you, how do you know how far up for down the bung tube should be to know exactly if the fuel is in the right range? Amal didn't specify where you should mark the bung tube to indicate the top edge of the float bowl this way you can indicate if the fuel is the 0.17" to 0.24" range from the top of the float bowl. Hope this makes sense!
Thanks for your comment; it's great to know that the video's been of some value. I'm not sure that I quite understand your question. The petrol will find it's own level in the tube from the bung (so long as the open end of the tube is above the float chamber). So, in theory, it doesn't matter how long this loop of tube is. In practice, it's best to keep the loop of tube as short as comfortably possible. This will limit the risk of air bubbles and surface tension from confusing things. Hold the open end of the tube steady, along side the carb float chamber and the petrol will find the the same level inside the tube as inside the carb. There's no need to mark the tube. Better to put a felt tip pen mark on the float chamber - as I do in the video. By the way - the tube I use in the video is much longer than it need be - next time I'd use a tube less than half as long. I hope this makes sense.
@@Greeves Thanks for your response! And sorry the question wasn't clear enough for you. Everything you are saying about the process makes sense, the only thing I am still not in the clear about is how I will know if there is too much or too little to indicate the fuel level inside both the carb and the tube. There must be a way to indicate the right amount (correct range) before reaching a point past the right range (beyond 0.24") before reaching the top of the float bowl). I guess I'll just have to make practice before I finally figure it out! Thanks
@@christianilluzzi Um, I think I get it. If you hold the tube steady, vertically against the side of the float bowl and then open the fuel tap - the petrol will fill the float chamber until the float rises & closes the needle valve. During this time, petrol will also flow into the bung tube, filling it to the same level as that in the float chamber. You can then see if the fuel level is 0.24" from the top of the float chamber :)
Having it a bit low isn't a problem because the main jet will still be covered, and the engine will never drain the bowl quicker than it fills from the tank. As you found out, if the float is too high it will cause flooding because it wont shut off before the bowl overflows. The stay up floats have a bendable tab which makes adjustment so much simpler than the previous type that needed the brass needle block tapping in and out to adjust it. These stay up floats are ethanol resistant and will even function when punctured so I've heard.
Thanks for the comment. Makes sense. If you see carbs with transparent float bowls, the petrol is all over the place when the engine is running - very far from the placid pool of fuel that might be imagined. e.g. ruclips.net/video/toVfvRhWbj8/видео.html A low level will reduce the pressure head seen by the jets but this tiny affect will be swamped by the other forces at play. So, as you say, as long as the main jet stays submerged, all should be well
Not quite sure what you mean (?) In use the fuel splashes about no end; as the engine vibrates & the bike moves about. It’s important that the average level is about right though 🙂
@@Greeves Should the fuel level be inspected with the motor positioned horizontally, standing upright, or is it acceptable if it’s tilted on the stand? Thats what i mean. Thanks to ChatGpt
@@MadiliaSarwary Ah, yes. The motor should be in the bike & with the bike standing upright on a horizontal surface. If the engine's out of the bike, position it in the same orientation as it would be in the frame. All the best
Hi. It’s an 11mm one, like this www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184606563771?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=VqwB6g_2SaG&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=UNDG8xYpR56&var=692325801082&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Thank goodness for your videos. Very helpful once again. Just purchased a Wassel Concentric and the instructions for float height are confusing.
Thanks for your comment 🙂
Really helpful thanks! Game changer.
Thanks for posting the comment. Good to hear 🙂
what was the symptom you were addressing - over flowing carb? I have just fitted a new mk1 and starting is reakky difficuly not too bad when running. I have a 1965 Bantam D7 converted for trials and was advise to go up form the 22mm carb outlet to 24mm, I have to set the mixture screw to 1/4 turn out rather than 1 1/2 turns so the pilot jet may be too small as they sent me the same size as on the original monoblock. Any thoughts welcome
Hi. My initial problem was flooding, so I decided to set the level to the factory recommendation. I’m no expert, especially on Bantams. 2 stroke Amal’s are generally different to 4 stroke - is your 24mm carb a 2 stroke version? I’d strongly suggest reading the excellent resources on the Burlan site amalcarb.co.uk/downloads/ Amongst other things, the notes here explain tuning Amals at four distinct stages of throttle opening, which is key to tuning them properly. Good luck.
Good video. I see how you did this but another way is to hold the float bowl tight against the bottom of the carb, turn the fuel on for a few seconds and then shut it off, then carefully lower it away from the carb so you see what the level of the fuel is, kind of simple actually.
Fair enough but how do you make allowance for the fuel displaced by the float? The level in to bowl once removed will be lower than it was when attached to the carb, (My method was 'over-the-top' though 🙂)
Very informative and helpful video! I read the same article on their website since I was having trouble with my float level too. I read the part about checking the fuel level by attaching a piece of clear tubing to the bottom of the float chamber and it was a bit confusing at first when reading it and I said myself, it would be nice if there was a video demonstrating how to do this and boy am I glad I found your video! I just had one question for you, how do you know how far up for down the bung tube should be to know exactly if the fuel is in the right range? Amal didn't specify where you should mark the bung tube to indicate the top edge of the float bowl this way you can indicate if the fuel is the 0.17" to 0.24" range from the top of the float bowl. Hope this makes sense!
Thanks for your comment; it's great to know that the video's been of some value.
I'm not sure that I quite understand your question. The petrol will find it's own level in the tube from the bung (so long as the open end of the tube is above the float chamber). So, in theory, it doesn't matter how long this loop of tube is. In practice, it's best to keep the loop of tube as short as comfortably possible. This will limit the risk of air bubbles and surface tension from confusing things. Hold the open end of the tube steady, along side the carb float chamber and the petrol will find the the same level inside the tube as inside the carb. There's no need to mark the tube. Better to put a felt tip pen mark on the float chamber - as I do in the video. By the way - the tube I use in the video is much longer than it need be - next time I'd use a tube less than half as long. I hope this makes sense.
@@Greeves Thanks for your response! And sorry the question wasn't clear enough for you. Everything you are saying about the process makes sense, the only thing I am still not in the clear about is how I will know if there is too much or too little to indicate the fuel level inside both the carb and the tube. There must be a way to indicate the right amount (correct range) before reaching a point past the right range (beyond 0.24") before reaching the top of the float bowl). I guess I'll just have to make practice before I finally figure it out! Thanks
@@christianilluzzi Um, I think I get it. If you hold the tube steady, vertically against the side of the float bowl and then open the fuel tap - the petrol will fill the float chamber until the float rises & closes the needle valve. During this time, petrol will also flow into the bung tube, filling it to the same level as that in the float chamber. You can then see if the fuel level is 0.24" from the top of the float chamber :)
Having it a bit low isn't a problem because the main jet will still be covered, and the engine will never drain the bowl quicker than it fills from the tank. As you found out, if the float is too high it will cause flooding because it wont shut off before the bowl overflows. The stay up floats have a bendable tab which makes adjustment so much simpler than the previous type that needed the brass needle block tapping in and out to adjust it. These stay up floats are ethanol resistant and will even function when punctured so I've heard.
Thanks for the comment. Makes sense. If you see carbs with transparent float bowls, the petrol is all over the place when the engine is running - very far from the placid pool of fuel that might be imagined. e.g. ruclips.net/video/toVfvRhWbj8/видео.html A low level will reduce the pressure head seen by the jets but this tiny affect will be swamped by the other forces at play. So, as you say, as long as the main jet stays submerged, all should be well
Does it matter if the bike stays straight?
Not quite sure what you mean (?)
In use the fuel splashes about no end; as the engine vibrates & the bike moves about. It’s important that the average level is about right though 🙂
@@Greeves Should the fuel level be inspected with the motor positioned horizontally, standing upright, or is it acceptable if it’s tilted on the stand?
Thats what i mean. Thanks to ChatGpt
@@MadiliaSarwary Ah, yes. The motor should be in the bike & with the bike standing upright on a horizontal surface. If the engine's out of the bike, position it in the same orientation as it would be in the frame. All the best
Hi , do you emember what size bung you purchased from ebay?
Hi. It’s an 11mm one, like this www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184606563771?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=VqwB6g_2SaG&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=UNDG8xYpR56&var=692325801082&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY