Part 1 - ruclips.net/video/PPfCnAzC0og/видео.html Part 2 - ruclips.net/video/0SMtu1pDneU/видео.html Part 3 - ruclips.net/video/k1WBR6UO4-Y/видео.html Part 4 - ruclips.net/video/_nZ9Rl_quyU/видео.html Part 5 - ruclips.net/video/DuDvVM6xyjw/видео.html
1:12 I slowed the video down 4x to see if you slipped some sort of easter egg in there, was just a random shot of the board that must have slipped into the timeline, I guess I just watch too many youtube wideos where they flash something up for a frame and immediately cut away! Great video though, love how you found an even more complicated way of getting a working A1000 than repairing a nearly dead original motherboard like you did for those 4000s!
26:14 I would almost certainly have done the same thing there. lol A definite typo on the schematic. :( The "R" has always been used as the decimal point, so they did type it in the wrong place. (I mean, of course you could also have say "6K8" to mean 6.8K, etc.) 33.2 Ohms seems oddly specific? Not as common as dead-on 33 Ohms, I wouldn't have thought?
33R (33 Ohms) is *very* common as a series resistor for clock lines and other digital signals, though. IIRC, the same value is used on many of the signal lines on the VRAM (SDRAM) on Dreamcast. Totally with you on soldering the SOJ chips, btw... I thought I was "pretty good" at soldering them in my teens. But then I repaired an Atari Jag for somebody about 6 years ago, and it took me about an hour just to swap some of the SOJ RAM chips. lol (I pinched the RAM from my working Jag to test on the faulty one. It turned out there was just the tiniest spot of corrosion on the main IRQ_N line to the 68000, which broke the trace, and left it floating. Hence it was crashing randomly and doing other weird stuff.) I said the same thing to Glenn on CRG the other day, as he had a bit of trouble soldering the SOJ chips as well. Just when you think you have enough solder on the pads, it's hard to get it to wick onto the leg so it looks nice. lol
24:26 - Pixel corruption is due to a design flaw with the '030 cache. The '030 cannot inhibit instruction and data caches independently, so if you only have chip RAM and the data cache is enabled, bad things happen. On systems without slow/fast RAM (or it's not detected), use the "CPU" console command to disable the data cache.
Hey Gadget, Just wanted so say I love your videos, I had bought a broken Neo Geo AES that I was able to fix after watching almost all(if not all) of your Neo Geo repair videos😁. I think my next obsession may become working on some of these old commodore computers, just from watching your videos, but I have a two or three projects I am working on at the moment I have to finish first. I was hoping that maybe you could provide some insight into one of them given your expertise. Recently my Neo Geo CD (front loader) stopped working correctly completely at random; I don't even think it was plugged in. I saw on the neo dev wiki that you added the information on the broken L0 ROM. My problem was exactly identical to what you outlined on the wiki with the sprites first line being duplicated indefinitely. I replaced the L0 ROM and I am get mostly proper sprites again, but I have black lines across the sprites. The lines are seemingly at random intervals apart without a pattern. ruclips.net/video/kEE-56-uWE0/видео.html Here is a video I captured from the console with showing what it looks like. Was curious if you have ever seen anything like this before? Is the new L0 ROM bad or perhaps there is an issue with some of the other chips in the area? As I said before, thank you for these videos. You have helped me out a ton.
Part 1 - ruclips.net/video/PPfCnAzC0og/видео.html
Part 2 - ruclips.net/video/0SMtu1pDneU/видео.html
Part 3 - ruclips.net/video/k1WBR6UO4-Y/видео.html
Part 4 - ruclips.net/video/_nZ9Rl_quyU/видео.html
Part 5 - ruclips.net/video/DuDvVM6xyjw/видео.html
1:12 I slowed the video down 4x to see if you slipped some sort of easter egg in there, was just a random shot of the board that must have slipped into the timeline, I guess I just watch too many youtube wideos where they flash something up for a frame and immediately cut away! Great video though, love how you found an even more complicated way of getting a working A1000 than repairing a nearly dead original motherboard like you did for those 4000s!
26:14 I would almost certainly have done the same thing there. lol
A definite typo on the schematic. :(
The "R" has always been used as the decimal point, so they did type it in the wrong place.
(I mean, of course you could also have say "6K8" to mean 6.8K, etc.)
33.2 Ohms seems oddly specific?
Not as common as dead-on 33 Ohms, I wouldn't have thought?
33R (33 Ohms) is *very* common as a series resistor for clock lines and other digital signals, though.
IIRC, the same value is used on many of the signal lines on the VRAM (SDRAM) on Dreamcast.
Totally with you on soldering the SOJ chips, btw...
I thought I was "pretty good" at soldering them in my teens.
But then I repaired an Atari Jag for somebody about 6 years ago, and it took me about an hour just to swap some of the SOJ RAM chips. lol
(I pinched the RAM from my working Jag to test on the faulty one. It turned out there was just the tiniest spot of corrosion on the main IRQ_N line to the 68000, which broke the trace, and left it floating. Hence it was crashing randomly and doing other weird stuff.)
I said the same thing to Glenn on CRG the other day, as he had a bit of trouble soldering the SOJ chips as well.
Just when you think you have enough solder on the pads, it's hard to get it to wick onto the leg so it looks nice. lol
Yeah, I just went with 33R and it's fine =D I can't imagine that .2ohm making much of a difference really! But I think it's a typo!
24:26 - Pixel corruption is due to a design flaw with the '030 cache. The '030 cannot inhibit instruction and data caches independently, so if you only have chip RAM and the data cache is enabled, bad things happen. On systems without slow/fast RAM (or it's not detected), use the "CPU" console command to disable the data cache.
Hey Gadget,
Just wanted so say I love your videos, I had bought a broken Neo Geo AES that I was able to fix after watching almost all(if not all) of your Neo Geo repair videos😁. I think my next obsession may become working on some of these old commodore computers, just from watching your videos, but I have a two or three projects I am working on at the moment I have to finish first. I was hoping that maybe you could provide some insight into one of them given your expertise.
Recently my Neo Geo CD (front loader) stopped working correctly completely at random; I don't even think it was plugged in. I saw on the neo dev wiki that you added the information on the broken L0 ROM. My problem was exactly identical to what you outlined on the wiki with the sprites first line being duplicated indefinitely. I replaced the L0 ROM and I am get mostly proper sprites again, but I have black lines across the sprites. The lines are seemingly at random intervals apart without a pattern. ruclips.net/video/kEE-56-uWE0/видео.html Here is a video I captured from the console with showing what it looks like. Was curious if you have ever seen anything like this before? Is the new L0 ROM bad or perhaps there is an issue with some of the other chips in the area?
As I said before, thank you for these videos. You have helped me out a ton.