Ask Adam Savage: Airbrushing Tips and DIY Tools
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- In this live-stream excerpt, Adam answers questions from Tested members Phill Tubbs and Warship Models Underway / Kurt about airbrushing and which tool he'd like to make for himself.
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One tip to getting started with an airbrush is to start out with water. Put water in the airbrush instead of paint and spray onto brown cardboard or paper bags. You can get a feel for the action, practice lines and dots and waves. You don't need to wear a mask when practicing and clean up is a total breeze. It really takes the intimidation out of the equation
Thanks so much. Read a lot of books and airbrush mags and never saw that tip before
Great Idea! Thanks! :)
Thx bro that sounds lke sound advice
@@Taoxlrgion1982 you are welcome dear lady
Same goes for paint spraying (HVLP and all that)... and pretty much any other liquid-flow artistry.
*If you don't read anything else, read this...*
Paasché ("Pah-shay") and Badger airbrushes work just fine and especially for base/entry/beginner/develop your skills brushes.
You don't learn to drive in a Ferrari and you don't need to buy the best, most sensitive brushes to learn to paint. Don't get 10 dollar brushes but get a good, name brand (so you'll have consistency) brush to start and those are timeless classics that will serve you well.
The more important thing in learning to airbrush is to have a good quality, steady flowing, sufficient cfm output compressor.
If your compressor doesn't make enough air and keeps running down to base output pressure, you'll have sputtering and all kinds of things that the best brush in the world can't fix. It's running your Ferrari on bad gasoline.
A decent compressor with enough stored cfm (cubic feet per minute, the magic and "need of all needs" for compressors) and enough power to keep pressure in the line and an oil/water separator will let you learn how to use the brush and practice basic techniques and your hand will be the final, determining factor.
Next, forget buying all the books and videos and doing what everyone else does. it's just like a beginning art class because, even if you are an accomplished artist with perspective, shading, depth, focus and everything else, you haven't done it with an airbrush yet so, you just got out of the writen part of "driver's ed" and you're getting behind the wheel for the first time.
Learn to make dots. Big dots, med. dots, small dots. Learn to make lines. Thick lines, med. lines, thin lines. Then draw circles, boxes and triangles. Practice until you can do all of those things competently, also practice lettering in block and cursive consistently, without spending all of your energy and focus trying not to screw up, the rest doesn't matter. Then learn to put your cursive letters together, just like you did with a pencil. *Then* you're ready to move on.
As slow or fast as it takes you to learn, that's how long it takes. Everybody's different, don't compare your rate of progression to someone else's. It's not a race or you'll never be comfortable and confident in your techniques. It really is "slow is smooth and smooth is fast." It'll happen when you're ready.
"Great brushes" don't matter if you can't use them properly. You have to learn the alphabet before you can make a word and you have to learn dots, lines and shapes before you can make a picture.
Be patient, give yourself room to make mistakes, practice until you get a little frustrated then do something else or take a break, completely. Trying to learn in one day and working until you can't hold your hands steady only makes you go backwards. Learn the artist's tricks of steadying your hand on another hand or a paint brush or long, thin stick. It'll come as soon as you let it, not force it.
As soon as you can do the basics with relative ease and consistency, *THEN* get a book on basic airbrushing and go through the steps, one by one until you're competent. Then you're ready to try making art.
*NOTE* If you rush yourself, trying to do more than your able and too soon... You'll only be frustrated and learn all the bad habits which you'll end up having to go back and fix before you can move on, anyway.
Patience is the number one priority. Have fun, make little games so you don't get bored or frustrated, like puting dots inside of circles inside of boxes to learn perspective and measuring/controlling distance, *after* you've learned to make all the lines and shapes comfortably, play with some simple stencils.
I *promise* that if you take your time and learn the right way, the first time, you'll progress very quickly and be making pictures before you know it.
I live not too far from the company here in chicago... its pronounced "PAW-SHAY"
Hey thanks, I was just about to try using an airbrush to do advanced model painting when I don't know what the heck I am doing! haha. I've had a tiny little hand held compressor from China for a while and it's only useful for adding primer. Hunkajunk.
I just finally got into airbrushing after years of saving and researching. I am a firm believer in paying a little more to get a slightly nicer tool to start. With the caveat that there are diminishing returns. Buying the most expensive tool or tools can quickly outrun your available talent, while going too cheap, you might give up out of frustration, assuming you’re the problem. I decided to get a nicer compressor, and a nice, but lower mid-range airbrush. (I say this relatively…the Iwata Eclipse is by no means cheap) I went with Iwata for both due to recommendations from some youtube makers who have earned my respect, Adam being one. I’m finally launching into my long coveted hobby of model building and so far, the airbrush has been a game changer. Along with some other products that I don’t believe were around when I was a child fighting with a metal tube of testors glue as I got finger prints all over the cockpit canopy of my F-117, and was afraid to attempt hand painting…But between the dozens of hours I’ve spent watching Tested, as well as the numerous, heavily accented Eastern European and Asian model masters on youtube, greedily gobbling up the spectacle of their skill, as well as making mental (and physical) notes of their tools, materials and techniques, and my study has paid off. I am still making beginner mistakes, but I am happy with the progression.
I’m about a month away from starting my first big project, a WWII themed mobile for my son who is due in April. His initials are MIG, and I pushed very hard for an I middle name, because one of my favorite fighters from WWII was the MiG 3. So my brilliant plan (if I can pull it off) is a 3 component mobile in 1/32 scale. A MiG 3 engaging a Ju-87 from behind. I’ve already ordered the large version of the wireless LED ring kit Norm showed a few months ago, and will be building that in at the top of mobile, hidden inside a polyfill cloud. The Ju-87 will be losing its wing, painted polyfill for flame and smoke (with LEDs inside the flame) and the pilot and gunner bailing out. I also want to attempt to create tracers by extruding some transparent sprue and gluing an LED to the bullet end. I’m hoping for a fiber optic glow effect, but this is TBD, and I could always resort to putting LEDs in a couple gun barrels instead…At any rate, I want the engine exposed, with the cowling and other bits of debris suspended by either thin fishing line or fine wire. If I can pull this off, I feel like it’ll be pretty epic, and something I would have loved to have as a kid.
Great video and insights on what you have used when airbrushing. I also started with a Paasche airbrush however the double action VL model, also a fantastic robust brush that will last you years and years. I now predominantly use Iwata and GSI Creos brushes and have never looked back 👍🏻
@@mattmurphy7030 that’s great you will love it and appreciate you watching my vids 👍🏻👍🏻
I cant tell you how much it means to have heard the first half of this video about the use of single and double action airbrushes. I'm 47 and I've been carrying around so much guilt about an amazing double action airbrush that my father got me when I was a teenager and I could NEVER figure it out. I understand how they work, I've tried using it but my brain just cant grok handling both airflow and paint at the same time. I've been "nose adjusting" a single action brush without any problems and have hardly ever touched the double action brush he got me. Knowing that there are others like me, especially someone as skilled as Adam Savage, that use single action brushes exclusively means so much.
I'm sure you didnt mean for this to be the point of your video but you have seriously helped me out with some baggage I've been carrying around for 30 years over a double action airbrush!
I got a $11 airbrush from Harbor Freight the other week. It's siphon fed so no real disassembly needed, hooked it up to the craftsman compressor I already owned and just went to town priming models. Works like a champ.
I was a fan of Iwata until I got a Harder Steenbeck and man, those are really nice airbrushes. The machining is so nice and I find the trigger to be easier to control.
For the router jig make a slot instead of holes and use a thumb screw pin to tighten into your set distance.
Just starting air brushing.
76 and I always hated paint brushes
Now this is the guy I trust.
Thanks
I’m a big fan of dual action airbrushes because you can dry parts fast by punching it forward and only spraying air. Really speeds things up
Yes! Such an unexpected luxury I didn’t realize I’d get when I upgraded to double action!
@@supersoftfloormat Yea, my dual action Broke recently so I’m looking for a new one. Most are expensive though XD.
Airbrushing..oh man I just had a flashback to my days with Badger and Paasche. Tip: get an ultrasonic cleaner and keep that tip/needle clean after use. Frisket, liquid mask and sharp xacto will go places, and do try learning to cut frisket on a balloon without popping it.
Adam mentioned starting with acrylics for airbrushing. I’d only recommend starting with acrylics if they’re the acrylic/lacquer type that tamiya makes. Water based acrylics like Vallejo are much more fussy and and suffer from tip dry really easily. Definitely possible to use both really effectively, I just think the acrylic lacquer thinned with lacquer thinner make paint spray like a dream. I’ve noticed a lot of people, including myself, starting out with water based acrylics because they aren’t nearly as noxious as lacquers. With lacquers you need a respirator and good ventilation to be safe.
TL;DR For me, lacquer paints are much easier to spray than acrylics.
I agree that lacquers are way better to use than acrylics. the only positive thing I can think that acrylic is good at is that it teaches you how to thin paints.
You are correct, but with a caveat. In our current home, my shop is attached to the house and tied into the home HVAC syatem. So, paint fumes/smells became a concern. My go-to for years was the Testors "Model Master range. They were super easy to use and sprayed wonderfully. With Rustoleum buying Testors and discontinuing the MM line, and now the smell consideration, I had to find options and lacquers were out. I settled on a mix of Vallejo, AK, Mig Ammo, and Scale 75. So the horror stories of tip dry issues definitely intimidated me...until I stumbled across this "Grumpy Modeler" guy on RUclips. Now, his presentation style is quite dour, but his info is good. In one of his videos, he talks about this homemade thinner concoction that is supposed to work so well with acrylics that tip dry is virtually eliminated. I was skeptical, but when I mentioned it at a club meeting, a guy in our club said he uses it all of the time and loves it. So, I mixed up a batch and the Vallejo sprayed beautifully. No tip dry, it went on smoothly, and it leveled beautifully. The code had been cracked. So, if anyone is intimidated, give it a try. One caveat: In the video, he also gives a cleaner mix. I don't use his formula. Personally, I'd avoid windshield washer fluid. It is highly toxic. I use Simple Green for the initial flush. It works like a charm. I follow with 92% Isopropyl alcohol for a final flush and wipe-down.
ruclips.net/video/SJw-amUlXNk/видео.html
Yea a 100 times over. Lacquers dry by evaporating which just is easier to intuit for our brains. Vallejo type paint cure when it meets air. Lacquers are just so forgiving and easy to get good results with, controlling drying times is also easy. Tamiya and MR Hobby all the way
It’s really not difficult to just thin acrylics. I think it’s not so much about not starting with acrylics, as it’s just knowing that thinning is necessary. Acrylic is so much friendlier to work with, being both safer and more forgiving, that I think they’re hands down the best place to start. Thinning is as basic as compressor psi...
@@HE-162 Did you find waterbased acrylics (I am guessing you mean Vallejo and Mig types) easier to work with?
I started out buying 40 Vallejo bottles, but had tip dry and orange peel, dusty surface finish. I tried thinning and using retarders, it got a little easier with a H&S airbrush.
But with lacquers I don't even have to be precise (though I am to save money) 1:1.5 1:2 1:2.5 all good results.
Would be interested to hear your experience.
Tamiya "acrylic" line is also very easy but they also carry solvents so that is probably why
I've learned so much from Adam, and it is so nice to see the lessons come back in this video again :D I started with the cheapest available double action airbrush, and recently invested in a quality harder and steenbeck one. It changed my painting forever :D It is so nice to go by what he taught here - get the cheapest one, and if you find a good use for it, pull the trigger and get a proper one. I'll forever live by this mantra for sure :D
Also I learned the appreciation for used tools and the history the marks give them. For the longest time I tried to keep everything pristine looking, no marks, no scratches - and tried to restore every damage I had on my tools. Now I think of these as marks of excellence, and that my tools have history. It started with my swiss knife when I dropped it and has a huge dent on it's metallic shell :D It goes without saying that tools can have lovely history, like my Nikon D3 that has over 330.000 shots in it. It is beat up like hell, but works as a workhorse, despite it's age :D
I bought a dual action airbrush for $60 that has the compressor built into the handle and it's battery powered. Works great as far as I'm concerned.
I got started with just a very cheap beginner set from amazon with a simple compressor and airbrush, and a spraying booth. Honestly I'm pretty sure the booth cost more than the brush and compressor. I upgraded about half a year ago. I just use it for priming/basecoating warhammer minis at the moment, but it's so nice not having to worry about what the weather is like when I want to prime them.
Best tip I can give form a fellow model maker, is
1. buy yourself a decent cheap airbrush and compressor
2. Learn the basics on thinning out the paint.
3. Play with the airbrush for a while.
4. learn what it can and can't do.
5. upgrade yourself a better airbrush
6. repeat 3 - 5.
Really, any other "tips" you get are from personal experience. Best way is to learn it yourself.
Screw a metal strip down the length of the circle cutter. The metal will allow you to reuse the circle cutter for a much longer time.
If your starting out airbrushing get a cheap Amazon double action airbrush or borrow one (even better) to find out if you even like airbrushing. Then if you enjoy it get an Iwata HP-CS, it's a double action brush that is a work horse. It can be used for virtually any type of airbrushing like base coating, detail, fine art, auto/bike painting, etc. It's in the medium price range for an airbrush. Craig Fraser (an incredible airbrush artist) said on a tutorial I was watching that if you're going to buy only one airbrush get that one. Then he said if you're going to buy a second airbrush then get another one of the same type. It's an incredible tool I highly recommend it.
Really comes down to what you want to do with said airbrush.
If you just want to lay down primers, varnishes, basecoats, sure, the basic paasche will do fine.
If you want to spray the eyeballs on a 1/16 figure, you need something a little more fine and controllable. Ditto if you want to do free hand camo or weathering with an airbrush.
Iwatas are good airbrushes, no question. I like the Harder & Steenbeck line of airbrushes. You can pick up a H&S Evolution 2n1. Comes with a small needle for fine close in work, and a big needle for larger work, as well as a small and large paint cup.
And is easier to disassemble and clean as it requires no tools to do so (Iwata requires a small wrench to take the tip out, and my big ass fingers don't cut it).
Have used pretty much ever brand of airbrush out there, and the H&S line of airbrushes is what I have settled on. Whether my 2 cents is worth anything.
It's amazing how much toss away knowledge Adam has. Me, if I'm not interested in using a certain brand of tool because of expense or whatever, I'd forget the name right off the bat. On the other hand, I do recall some really odd-ball things like the speed of light to 3 decimal points which I've used in an equation for a total number of times of never.
I use a pair of Iwata Eclipse gravity fed double action. I learned on a cheaper knockoff brand: Master, but they were an incredibly well made and cost effective knockoff.
I second the motion for getting 2 Eclipse brushes. Great quality and tough as nails, well as tough as you can be with an airbursh.
3rd....I love my Iwata HP-CS. I've also got a Badger Patriot 105 and an old Badger siphon feed airbush, along with a Paache single action. I keep going back to my Iwata, though. ❤️ A tip if you haven't discovered it yet. If you remove the tip guard, it reduces the air turbulence at the tip, and you can get even finer lines.
DoubleAction airbrush learning tip...
Get yourself some recycled brownpaper bags or poster board. (unprinted plain cardboard works easily well.)
Load the airbrush with water and draw something, Between the strength of the paper and it's contrast when wet you will be able to draw on it.
Let it dry and you can practice again with no consumables of materials other than water and air. If you use a compressor be sure to install an air dryer in humid regions, your air tools will love you for it.
best advice i can give about airbrushes is always clean it after use, if the paint dries inside youre screwed.
Iwata all the way. I have the Iwata Eclipse, and it's the perfect beginners airbrush.
Great time for this vid to pop up mentioning DIY tools as I spent yesterday making a solder fan with a PC case fan and Litter Box Filter, using a drawer organizer to hold things, and adjust as needed.
Not that I have any business throwing my two cents in here, but on the subject of Airbrushes I always suggest finding a fat-bodied version fir beginners. My first one was a Badger Crescendo 175. Never had to deal with hand cramping from long airbrush sessions, but it was a bit like painting with a thumb when it came to finer details. Also, no matter the proficiency level, always always spend 20-30 minutes on practice strokes. (Learned that last one from a blacksmith and my airbrush game jumped tremendously when I applied it.)
Patriot model 105 is a great cheap dual action airbrush. Easy to service and clean.
1. Get a pistol grip AKA pistol trigger airbrush to lower the learning curve; It automatically cuts the paint flow before airflow which reduces tip dry. It is also just easy to use.
2. Lacquers are easiest to use and get good results with, then enamels then water based air curing mostly called "acrylics"
3. Buy cheap to begin with if you doubt whether you will use it, but be aware that it might be a lot more difficult to use.
4. For EU customers; The GSI Procon boy brand 0.3 and PS-290 Fan pattern are some of the best bang for buck in EU - If you don't need the trigger then H&S Evolution Silverline is really great.
Been on this journey and these are the things I would have liked to know. If you see yourself having use for air in your hobby, then get a bigger compressor from the start. There are low noise 4 piston 30-40 liters models for not much more money.... Just to qualify my suggestions, calling water based paints "acrylics" is a misnomer, as lacquers can also be acrylics, you have to know what you are buying if you want to mix brands. Paints are a deep mystery iunless you really take a deep dive. But lacquers are evaporative - Enamels cure over time - "Acrylics" like vallejo cure when in contact with air
My experience with airbrush mirror yours. I started with a single action Paashe Model H 35 years ago. After learning the basic, I bought a Paasche VL for some illustration work. Later on I upgraded to an Iwata HP-C purely by chance, and I been using the same Iwata HP-C for the past 25 years.
Am I the only one that doesn't do anything even close to making stuff, never have, but still comes and watches every single tested video that includes Adam?
I just like Adam as a person even though I've never met him.
Awe c'mon man. Jump in to the Maker's community. Generally speaking, folks are friendly and very helpful. You don't have to start with homemade tools (or expensive tools) and you don't have to build something from scratch. Find a pre-painted snap-together model kit, or one of those Metal Earth kits and just put something together. From there, the world of making will open to you and you'll be surprised at the journey it will offer you
Re: The one day repair of the knife sharpener. How about a cylindrical counterweight that slides over the rod that moves through the ball joint? Put it out on the end and clamp it to the rod like the travel limiting collar does at the other end.
Wish I had a space for airbrushing. While handpainting my models is very pleasant, it rarely reults in a nice basecoat. I wonder if Adam has any thoughts on how to setup an airbrush in a very tight apartment space.
Just make yourself a small booth out of a cardboard box, try to get it near a window…but I don’t most of the time. There are some pretty good cordless compressors and airbrush combos on Amazon. Very adequate for my modeling. I keep the airbrush taken apart and stored in an ultrasonic cleaner and water when not in use. Never had a clog doing that.
I have a small compressor about the size of a kitten. And I spray inside a cardboard box. Before I moved I would set it up on my bed and had no problems.
I made a desktop spraybooth out of cardboard like others have mentioned. I just added a filter and fan attached with duct tape to also ctreate a draft. Haven't had any overspray problems yet, and it folds up flat for storage.
You dont need anymore room then you do with hand paint. Just put something behind what your working on for over spray, crack a window and out on a respirator. All good to go.
I live in a small apartment. I just use a small spray booth, it costs about as much as the cheapest compressor does. Get a 3l compressor and an airbrush and a spraybooth like this one:
ruclips.net/video/4HsQCRx8CDY/видео.html
I have this model and it works great
Alternatively use a stove top exhaust, bottomside up and a flex tube out the window
Tool tip: if you can’t afford an airbrush or a paint gun in most hardware stores you can find a little thing called a PreVal sprayer. Comes with everything you need to spray your paints- and it costs $6.
I still have my first paasche single action airbrush that I got for my birthday almost 30 years ago and it still works.
Make one with all your extra holes out of plastic.
Love your teaching, so glad I found it.
You could fix your router circle template by running a piece of nylon with a whole for your reference down rabbits cut in lengths of wood then rigging up some way to clamp the nylon in place giving you ultimate adjustment and reusability.
You know you are following a good channel, when it's been 6 minutes since a video was up uploaded and you have more than 600 views. 100 views/minute. The one maker I would love to meet in person #Adamsavage
Biggest tip for a beginner is to get a cleaning kit, and use Windex to clean it between uses. Brand loyalty is for suckers, but, I recommend getting an iwata nano. Practice with cheap paint thinned with good reducer, for acrylic paint use createx 4011, just a drop or too will do
Oh, i don’t like the open paint tub in the Pashe. The Binks had separate closed color bottles.
I used fifteen color bottles, which included a bottle of thinner to clear the ‘pallet’ for the next color.
This was sanity, especially the bottle of thinner, standing by.
Don Cochrane.
I like what you said.
some double action airbrushes also have a needle stop to set how much paint comes out. So if you need a fine spray but lack the control to maintain it. Set the stop and pull back until it stops.
i bought a iwata hpcs as my first airbrush lol i probably could of started out with a cheaper one but i heard nothing but good things about iwata air brushes
If you're struggling with the head pat/belly rub motions of using a double action it's likely that you're overprioritizing the motion of depressing for air flow. If you're doing anything with fine detail, just get the DA airbrush and focus entirely on using the paint flow control (pulling the stem back). The air quantity can be controlled through other methods (most have a choke point in the handle or you can just adjust air pressure).
Being able to lay down the finest mist, without having to spray from a distance and needing to mask off a huge area, is invaluable for small model making. However, if you're just looking for something to lay a fine, consistent mist of paint down over an area then sure, a single action is marginally easier to deal with.
Whilst I can (and probably do without noticing) control the airflow using double action, it's the least valuable part of airbrushing, unless you are needing to constantly (as in every few seconds) adjust airflow due to moving in/out and avoiding paint runs. I can promise you, if you ignore airflow, a double action airbrush is the way to go for fine work and it's a revelation when you use one for model work.
I was thinking just today that there must be a way to make a decent circle cutting jig/ tool and then I watched this video :D I'll be making a version of that jig
You are such a bad influence on me…. I just went to the Hemingway kits site and bought a small vice kit….. it WILL get lots of use for sure, but did I really need it? YES!!! Tools are my addiction…
I airbrush. My opinion for someone starting is start with something from harbor freight it’s cheap and it’s good for the basics. Cheap craft acrylic thin with water is good enough to learn. Don’t spend a lot of dough until you get familiar with airbrushing for the type of airbrushing you wish to do.
But it's expensive to buy a tool twice! I really struggle with that idea. I'd rather just get a middle of the road brand name one. Chances are it'll serve me well forever.
ILM using single action airbrushes is exactly what I would expect from factory production.
Trusting Adams advice, I was wondering whether to get a pasche airbrush, then he mentioned Iwata is better... It's the brand I've been using for years 😁 joy. He then goes on to show a router circle jig, very similar to one I made some years ago... I feel like I've just aced a test or something!
I'd add that you need to know what your'e doing. Are you looking to do fine detail work or are you looking for coverage? Do you want to be able to get really awesome feathering of different colors? Each of those things needs a different airbrush. Personally, I only need 2, so I have 2 airbrushes. Both were Iwata for a long time, then I decided to give the Mr. Hobby airbrush a try for my detail work and I loved it, so I swapped the detail brush for that.
But I agree - easy cleaning and maintenance is a HUGE consideration.
Don’t you mean a small signal to noise ratio? A huge signal to noise ratio would mean a very low noise floor right? Either way I’m a huge fan Adam thanks for continuing to put yourself out there
Find it funny when people say Iwata is easy to clean while you need a mini wrench to unscrew the nozzle.
Have a look at Harder & Steenbeck airbrushes and their performance.
I've never used the wrench. I hand tighten it and hand loosen it. I've never had issues now I do have issue with the overall ease of assembly.
I saw a hobo hit an overpass in Portland with a photo realistic mural using rattle cans he bought at walmart, a razor blade to shape the nozzles, and the paper bag he carried them in as a shield and stencil. Expert advice you didn't pay for always has a lower MSRP than you invested.
My tiny bit of airbrush advice is dont be afraid to start with a super cheap ebay double action and just learn the machine before the method
two things Adam... Paasche are made in Chicago, not too far from where I live. Its pronounced "PAW-SHAY" also.. I'm spoiled for Double action... There is soooo much more control.
I'm curious as to what your first childhood builds were? Where did your passion start?
Awesome uniform , favorite movie of all time. Just genius. So simple.
I just thought of a cool ways to improve those types of tools. Awesome video!
How powerful of compressor are you using? Is the air brush gravity fed or suction based?
I think it 100% depends on the application of airbrushing. Single action is fine for the majority of things, but when you get into fine detail work, dual action is invaluable
After admiring my cheap airbrush that I use to touch up cars I gave my buddy the exact same advise as Adam about airbrushes. So he promptly went out and bought the most expensive dual action airbrush at the art store. After a few frustrating fails the airbrush now sits on a shelf in my shop where I display it proudly. He hasn't even bothered to take it home in 2 years.
LISTEN TO THE PROFESSIONALS PEOPLE.
sorry but nonsens...someone who can't basicly control a double action airbrush after an hour...maybe 2 hours has a general fine motor skill problem......and i am pretty sure that the frustrating "first time" fails your buddy made had another fairly simple reason ! wrong paints, wrong thinning ratio or nobody who gave him a 5 minute "how to handel it" crash crash course
@@hazeform7689 Yea, well I don't think Adam Savage has a "general fine motor skill problem". I have been in the maker game as long as Adam has and auto paint professionally, the paint was not the issue. The point is you could spend a lot less money to realize that you don't want to be an airbrush artist. I have some of the finest paint sprayers in the world, I started way back with a Binks model 7, but I could have learned just as well with the cheapest Harbor Freight gun. The only difference is the Harbor Freight job wouldn't still be in my shop in perfect order.
@@ipissed no he pointed it out and said that he was never good at this tasks and i guess the problem grows because he used a singel action first and then trying to use double action makes it even more confusing to him. i think you agree with me that you will end up sooner or later at double action brushes because they are just way better....so why starting with a singel action first...this make absolute zero sence. i never said anything about the price. in my experience it is as follows. if you buy an expensive brush 100-150€ upwards then you get 99% a 1A airbrush! which, for various reasons, does not make much sense for beginners. if you buy a 15€ chinese airbrush you can get anything....a brush that did not work from day 1,a brush that works just for a few weeks or you get very lucky and get a 15€ brush that works for years and is more or less indestructible like my first airbrush which I still use sometimes and still works great. this chance is about 20% I guess.
@@hazeform7689 Well we will just agree that you disagree with a renowned talent, and another professional with 60+ years experience between them. You can also tell me without telling me that you are the guy that goes out and buys the high dollar double action airbrush first thing because he thinks it will make him a great artist.
@@ipissed he get it....now wasn't that difficult at all....right ? you know who advises a beginner to get a single action airbrush these days, his airbrush skills can't be in a very good shape
I have a Devilbis Badger but if I'm spraying flat colors on aircraft and sci-fi models I use a $30 no name double action I got on Amazon.
Been useing a badger anthem 155 for more then a decade i know iwata is superior but its been good to me and i enjoy it :) one day all check out an iwata
I’d watch an hour long video on homemade tools, they’re so interesting!
I am a model railroader. I love looking at back issues of the old model railroader magazines. In an article on airbrushing way back in the 1940s. He suggests using a Paasche H airbrush. The exact same model and design you can buy today. That is the hallmark of a quality, robust tool. I have one, also 2 Badger airbrushes. One is 40 years old and works as well today as it did when I was a teenager. Still sold today, I can still get parts.
A modeller of plastic models who has a hobby shop near me won't use anything except Harder and Steenbeck. A gorgeous tool, but 4 or more times the price of a Paasche or Badger. Really? Can it make that much difference with what I do?
i now use Iwata airbrushes they are the best in my openion
Masters makes good banger air brushes. They’re like 60$ and with a good solvent they’ll power through anything. It be had several that I left resin in that were solidly locked up but ran some gun scrubber thru it and they work fine. You can’t do that with a badger.
Adam as a prop builder for movies, what scale do filmmakers use for filming models?
Imperfections in my models I shall henceforth dub "witness marks" ...thanks for that
I assume the type of airbrush Adam and other model /cosplay makers etc use are very different and unsuitable if what you want to do is fine art- like Sorayama / foss etc paintings?
No I think it's the same. I would imagine you'd need double action though.
Hey Adam, whats the story with your flexy (coolant hose?) phone /camera holder? Brand name link? Anyway love all your stuff.....
That steamer trunk in the back. My god I feel like Adam pausing a VHF copy of the 5th element to try and figure out what's inside it....what's in the BOX
Routing Lollipop... More like shop defense tool!
my only comment would be to start with a cheap double, just because the rubbing your tummy, patting you head action is so hard to get the hang of. its painful early but its a skill you need to work on long term so id suggest its better to dive in to it early so you are learning it all at once.
that said don't get an airbrush for a project your already working on, its not quick to learn so you need to practice it, ive been told doing cursive handwriting tests for kids is the best way to really hone your control, but i just did circles on top of circles on top of circles....
I asked a guy who painted custom gas tanks for motorcycles how to airbrush and he made it sound like the it was the most difficult thing ever and you needed to spend tons of cash on expensive gear and then I later asked my uncle how to airbrush and he made it sound easy as hell and said you could get away with some gutter trash cheap harbor freight brush and do fine so yea lotta noise but hopefully I can get it figured out
Adam helps make sens off all the noice
instead of graduations make the pivot moveable in a long slot.
Routing Lollipop ... I thought it was Glenda's Wand. (Neever mind)
I also swear that Iwata airbrushes are the most robust on the market. I've used Iwata for 40 odd years and have used other brands but anything else just are too easily broken or blocks up.
Double-action airbrushes are actually really easy to use. I can only assume Adam's issue is because he spent so much time with single-actions, where you control the amount of air with the down-push, and I suspect Adam is trying to control the down-push AND the pull-back to reach some hypothetical balance of air and paint. Don't. Double-actions don't work that way, you just press for air when you're getting ready to start and leave it pressed, you always have air blowing full-blast. It's not about rubbing your belly while patting your head, instead it's just: put your hand on your belly and leave it there. Now pat your head. Don't think about your belly-hand, just focus on patting your head. See? you can pat your head as fast or slow as you want, and your hand never moves off your belly. Easy. Don't try to control how much air, just leave it pressed.
Best analogy I can think of is single-action airbrushes are like single-geared bicycles, Double-action airbrushes are like mountain bikes. Sure, single-gear bikes are easy to use and maintain, you pedal and bike goes, back-pedal and bike brakes. You don't need to worry about gear shifters or derailleurs or brake cables. But just like mountain bikes, it doesn't take much extra knowledge of bicycle repair to keep a mountain bike in working order, and you're REALLY going to appreciate all those extra gears the moment you try and go up a hill.
Ironically, I bought my first airbrush earlier... I went on the internet and wrote "best airbrush" and expecting a single answer back... NO! So I went for a cheap one with very good reviews on Amazon from other beginners. Maybe one day, I'll go for an Iwata too... they seem good.
Remember Adam's general tool advice: buy a cheap one to start and abuse the heck out of it. Once you've used it enough to have an informed opinion, THEN buy the most expensive one you can afford. Cheap airbrushes are great to learn on, then later you can go for that Badger Patriot or Iwata Eclipse and really appreciate the difference.
@@rhelyk7893 that's why I'm not regretting having bought a cheap one 😁
Hemingway kits is good and there's nothing wrong with Eastwood either
don't forget your paint thinner ;-;
I overpainted using an airbrush. I have to painstakingly sand it. I cry ;-;
Anybody who can use a controller with two thumbsticks can get their head around a double action airbrush. It's far more intuitive than Adam made it seem if you are a digital native.
Stupid question but couldn't you cut an opening the length of your homemade tool & just use a thick washer or something similar as a clamp to hold it down in place obvs w/ a hole drilled in the middle for your screw to go thru.
It'd be dead center every time & you could make it out of some nice wood cause you'd never have to replace it
Any sub-$100 suggestions? Is it even worth it at that price point? I probably need a full kit with the compressor, but I have workshop air compressors that are probably way overkill.
The Iwata Neo is considered to be a nice beginner model and is usually available for less than $100.
I'll assume you and others are going to speak about Doug Trumbull.
Quick correction for English speakers out there, Iwata is pronounced “E-wa-ta”.
How is 'The Martian' spacesuit build coming along? It's been soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo long!
Yeah I think I'm not going to prescribe because that sounds like so much Adam
Ya know, could reinforce/laminate that circle guide with a simple sheet of aluminum or thinner steel and some construction adhesive
What's the glowing chest in the background?
I bought an airbrush 2 years ago and never used it...
"Cheap" and "Posh" What are you saying Adam!? /s
hi
I really have to disagree on single action airbrushes, I would dare to say there is almost no reason not to get a double action. Cheap, robust DA airbrushes and portable compressors can be found bundled for ~$70. They are far more capable than a SA at basically no additional cost.
I disagree to your disagree and agree with Adam I’ve used a single action airbrush for more than twenty years they have three tip sizes which give loads of spray patterns. I have done tons of projects from models and statuary to blending repairs to broken house objects before the wife finds out 😬 both have their eccentricities and benefits
Usually Adam gives great advice... but not this time. I suspect that he's never used a cheap, really bad airbrush.
If you buy a bad airbrush, you'll learn that airbrushes are fiddly, quick to clog, hard to clean and not worth getting out if you just have a little job.
Spend between $70 and $100 on a gravity fed, dual action Iwata. After an hour or two using it, you won't even think about the dual action mechanism anymore. You can run nearly anything through it, you can use tiny amounts of paint, and it'll take two minutes to clean it up and put it away when you're done.
@@talyrath you gave the ultimate answer single action airbrush double action airbrush…buy cheap get rotten results …
@J Fizzy oh troll much
100% of people who buy cheap air brushes give up on the entire practice because they're a flaky pain in the ass. Buy something decent and eBay it if you decide it's not for you.
Why in invest in airbrush with which you will not have the ability to do fine lines, etc? Double-action's are not hard to get the hang of at all, you will have much more control over what you're trying to achieve, and they are much more versatile.You can get an Iwata Neo Airbrush and Compressor for like $250
If your good on a airbrush why you use so many rattle cans? They are horrible on the environment. As soon as I started using air brush primer I haven't touched a rattle can
You're playing a guitar you play a band the suit is very heavy that you put it on on purpose and you put your helmet on your head
I wanted to call out to make sure you're using airbrush specific paints. A lot of non-airbrush paints may have heavy metals (cadmium is the main culprit in reds/oranges/yellows) in them that you definitely don't want to breathe.
if you think "airbrush specific paints" are less unhealthy when you inhale paint particles or fumes, then you are wrong my friend ! no matter which kind of color you spray through an airbrush you will need at least a mask with a good particl filter. if ther is any solvent in your colors you need a a mask with an activated carbon filter. the best thing is always a spray booth with direct exhaust air to the outside