.great tutorial. I've just finished my work van's handbrake. You can readjust a weaker handbrake by jacking one side, removing a single wheel nut. If the brake shoes are still functional so you won't have to take the whole wheel off.
Little tip, shouldn't really use a rachet to break off tight bolts, if the rachet mechanism slips, which it can if it's a cheap one or worn, you could hurt yourself! Use a breaker bar then switch to the rachet
Good video..i did exactly the same work..on my peugeot boxer 2008 2.2...mot passed beginning off the summer..but my hand break needs adjustment again...very sentimental these breaks..horrible lol..
@@davidamioffgrid thanks mate, ive been in shetland, working/camping, foolishly i neglected the mot date, 🙉 have had a bit of a nightmare, going back in for retest Thursday just before i get the ferry, if it doesn't pass I'll have to get it booked in on the mainland, appreciate you responding, Thanks
Sanding brake pad material isnt a bad move, but try and keep greasy fingers off the porus surface/use lots brake cleaner Thanks for the video... Weak handbrake and mot coming up
Interesting to see the old caravan Waste master used for grey water, I was thinking of doing the same thing as they are cheap as chips. Don't suppose you filmed the fitting?
Hi, we converted this van in 2016, and didn’t film much of it at the time. We used Unistrut to build the rear seats and then used more unistrut underneath the van to clamp the seats to the van floor. The same unistrut that secures the seat then has both water tanks hanging off it on 10mm screwed rod and some flat bar at the bottom and nylock nuts. The main water tank is 70 litre and the waste is 50 litre, so it works well for our needs.
Hi David, my problem is the handbrake won't release and it's driving me mad. I've had someone look at it twice and it's still doing it. When you release the handbrake you can feel that they are not realising, just a slack cable. I was wondering if the pivot mechanism in the centre of the van is sticking, have you ever looked at this component? Cheers Mick
Hi Mick, sorry just noticed your comment. I would have a look at the part the cable attaches to under the van, they can get covered in dirt and seize. If you can spray it with de-greaser and lubricate it and make sure it is moving freely. Also disconnect the cable and make sure it is moving freely inside the outer sleeve. If all is good at that end check the components at the rear. Also check nothing else is obstructing the movement of the parts especially if is a Campervan with pipes and cables everywhere. Cheers David
Hi David totally agree with you i have a 2020 boxer and handbrake is crap and like you i do everything on the van, i have just fitted air suspension to it can you let me know what pressure you set them to get the best ride as instuctions with kit are bit sketchy.Look forward to more videos from you and Ami,cheers.
Hi John, we tend to park in gear and put the chocks under the wheels just to be sure. We have the air suspension at 30 psi most of the time, sometimes need to adjust it, but that seems to work not too bad. Cheers David
Is that air suspension on rear ? does it work well ? got problems with handbrake on relay at moment its always borderline at MOT , did cables improve it much ?
Yes, air suspension bags, I think it has made a difference to the ride and handling. I changed the cables just to make sure everything had been done to try and improve the handbrake, but they probably didn't need replaced.
Seriously it's the worst design ever isn't it! Replaced my rear cables and all shoes and drums and this year it still failed MOT again. I figured out the issue though - although I'm not sure whether my XLWB boxer has this differently to shorter wheel bases. Basically the steel draw bar part of the mechanism was my issue. On my van it passes through a small bracket guide with a rubber grommet. This was not actually supporting the bar so the bar was sagging down under its own weight. This meant that the force of the first 2-3 clicks of the handbrake pull was using all its energy to straighten the bar and cable length rather than using that energy to push the shoes onto the drums. I used a short length of pipe to fit over the draw bar and fixed that to the bracket so that it supports the weight of the drawbar and keeps the bar and cables straight without any sag. Took it back for MOT retest and brake force was up 60% and way over min limit 🙂
Thanks Chris, I never really paid much attention to the brackets holding the steel bar in place before, but I will have a look next time I am working on the van and see if that is also contributing to the problem. I need to have a look at the exhaust soon, so it won't be long until I am under the van again!. It always seems to work well, for a while anyway, but just never have the confidence in it on really steep hills.
Im trying to do mine now.. in what order do u attach the strings? Im struggling 😅 Also..it looks like the smaller string is attached from the front and not from the back where u first showed....? Mine have the adjustment wheel different on each side..one is up and one is down..does this matter? 🤔 Im guessing i just put it as is? Bu then again, i have no idea who did it before me...or even when..
I think there are a few different variations of these, motorhomes and tipper/ box vans may be different arrangement. I have seen the adjustment wheels in different locations on other videos, so that might just be the way yours is. I attached the cables from the wheels to the centre bracket first and then did the section to the front, but I don't think it really matters what order you do it. I would just keep it the way it is on your van as it may just be a slightly different layout/ year/ model.
Good video, good technical detail. I will have to have a look at mine, now I know what to expect.
Thanks and good luck with yours
Thank you for sharing the video. When I did mine I had to heat the body near the bolts. The bolts had thread lock 😡🤣
.great tutorial. I've just finished my work van's handbrake. You can readjust a weaker handbrake by jacking one side, removing a single wheel nut. If the brake shoes are still functional so you won't have to take the whole wheel off.
Helped me sort mine out after an MOT failure 👍. Passed with flying colours after doing the same adjustments as you did.
Nice one James
Little tip, shouldn't really use a rachet to break off tight bolts, if the rachet mechanism slips, which it can if it's a cheap one or worn, you could hurt yourself!
Use a breaker bar then switch to the rachet
Good video..i did exactly the same work..on my peugeot boxer 2008 2.2...mot passed beginning off the summer..but my hand break needs adjustment again...very sentimental these breaks..horrible lol..
Great video, thanks, just doing mine now, where is mot place
Thanks, we use a garage in Motherwell
@@davidamioffgrid thanks mate, ive been in shetland, working/camping, foolishly i neglected the mot date, 🙉 have had a bit of a nightmare, going back in for retest Thursday just before i get the ferry, if it doesn't pass I'll have to get it booked in on the mainland, appreciate you responding,
Thanks
Sanding brake pad material isnt a bad move, but try and keep greasy fingers off the porus surface/use lots brake cleaner
Thanks for the video... Weak handbrake and mot coming up
Interesting to see the old caravan Waste master used for grey water, I was thinking of doing the same thing as they are cheap as chips. Don't suppose you filmed the fitting?
Hi, we converted this van in 2016, and didn’t film much of it at the time. We used Unistrut to build the rear seats and then used more unistrut underneath the van to clamp the seats to the van floor. The same unistrut that secures the seat then has both water tanks hanging off it on 10mm screwed rod and some flat bar at the bottom and nylock nuts.
The main water tank is 70 litre and the waste is 50 litre, so it works well for our needs.
Hi David, my problem is the handbrake won't release and it's driving me mad. I've had someone look at it twice and it's still doing it. When you release the handbrake you can feel that they are not realising, just a slack cable. I was wondering if the pivot mechanism in the centre of the van is sticking, have you ever looked at this component? Cheers Mick
Hi Mick, sorry just noticed your comment.
I would have a look at the part the cable attaches to under the van, they can get covered in dirt and seize. If you can spray it with de-greaser and lubricate it and make sure it is moving freely. Also disconnect the cable and make sure it is moving freely inside the outer sleeve.
If all is good at that end check the components at the rear.
Also check nothing else is obstructing the movement of the parts especially if is a Campervan with pipes and cables everywhere. Cheers David
Hi David totally agree with you i have a 2020 boxer and handbrake is crap and like you i do everything on the van, i have just fitted air suspension to it can you let me know what pressure you set them to get the best ride as instuctions with kit are bit sketchy.Look forward to more videos from you and Ami,cheers.
Hi John, we tend to park in gear and put the chocks under the wheels just to be sure.
We have the air suspension at 30 psi most of the time, sometimes need to adjust it, but that seems to work not too bad. Cheers David
Brilliant video, thanks a lot
You put the adjuster back in upside down
You serious or joking? Because it really makes zero difference which way it's facing. Im assuming you're being satirical.
Is that air suspension on rear ? does it work well ? got problems with handbrake on relay at moment its always borderline at MOT , did cables improve it much ?
Yes, air suspension bags, I think it has made a difference to the ride and handling.
I changed the cables just to make sure everything had been done to try and improve the handbrake, but they probably didn't need replaced.
Great video mate, have you had any issues since adjusting it? Btw is that a Glasgow accent I detect? :)
All been working well since, and yes we are just south of Glasgow👍
I'm not far from yi mate, I'm in EK 👍
I have an Autotrail chieftain tag axle, handbrake is an absolute nightmare.
Seriously it's the worst design ever isn't it! Replaced my rear cables and all shoes and drums and this year it still failed MOT again. I figured out the issue though - although I'm not sure whether my XLWB boxer has this differently to shorter wheel bases. Basically the steel draw bar part of the mechanism was my issue. On my van it passes through a small bracket guide with a rubber grommet. This was not actually supporting the bar so the bar was sagging down under its own weight. This meant that the force of the first 2-3 clicks of the handbrake pull was using all its energy to straighten the bar and cable length rather than using that energy to push the shoes onto the drums. I used a short length of pipe to fit over the draw bar and fixed that to the bracket so that it supports the weight of the drawbar and keeps the bar and cables straight without any sag. Took it back for MOT retest and brake force was up 60% and way over min limit 🙂
Thanks Chris, I never really paid much attention to the brackets holding the steel bar in place before, but I will have a look next time I am working on the van and see if that is also contributing to the problem. I need to have a look at the exhaust soon, so it won't be long until I am under the van again!. It always seems to work well, for a while anyway, but just never have the confidence in it on really steep hills.
Im trying to do mine now.. in what order do u attach the strings? Im struggling 😅
Also..it looks like the smaller string is attached from the front and not from the back where u first showed....?
Mine have the adjustment wheel different on each side..one is up and one is down..does this matter? 🤔 Im guessing i just put it as is? Bu then again, i have no idea who did it before me...or even when..
I think there are a few different variations of these, motorhomes and tipper/ box vans may be different arrangement.
I have seen the adjustment wheels in different locations on other videos, so that might just be the way yours is.
I attached the cables from the wheels to the centre bracket first and then did the section to the front, but I don't think it really matters what order you do it.
I would just keep it the way it is on your van as it may just be a slightly different layout/ year/ model.
Vreau acxa spate pejeo boxer