How to Replace a Front Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly || 2014 - 2020 Chevy Impala || Torque Specs Shown!
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- How to replace or change a front Axle Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly on a 2014 Chevy Impala. Complete guide with Torque Specifications!
2014 Impala shown. 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019 or 2020
Link for my wheel bearing removal video:
• How to remove a rusty ...
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#chevy #impala #wheelbearing #removal
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How-to and Reviews
FANTASTIC video. Detailed and quick!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Outstanding Work! 🎉
Glad it helped!
Great video, this helped a lot!
Glad it helped!
Nice i like that instruction video step by step
Glad it was helpful!
You do not need to take the bolts out of strut to access bolts if you turn the wheel. Js
Awesome! Thanks for sharing!
Great video
Hey this is a good video, I replaced my front wheel bearing after watching this, The only thing you did not show was tie rod end needed to be taken up.I had to take tie rod up, didn’t mess with the adjustments thou.
Thanks for the tip
you don’t have to
You don’t have to take Tie rod end loose or the strut
@@s.akinribido5894 I found that out on drivers side.
Must be a 91B. Awesome video from a 91D
Awesome! 11C, but I often felt like a mechanic because I was in a mechanized unit and had to maintain my own vehicle. 🫡
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficialGreat Job and instructional video... 15T
@@12current Hooah brother.
awesome video dude! Thank you for your service as well.
Question, for the torque wrench, what kinda drive we working with here in regard to the torque wrench for the steering knuckle & FWD shaft nut that is.
3/8th?
3/4th ?
or 1/2 ?
Thanks, I appreciate it.
The steering knuckle could use a 3/8” or 1/2” drive torque wrench (their torque ranges overlap).
The axle nut needed a 1/2” drive torque wrench.
I do not have a 3/4” drive torque wrench. (My axle nut socket was 3/4” drive, but I used an adapter).
I hope that helps!
Use 3/8 shallow 18mm socket and 3in extention a 3/8 >machine bring those wheel bearing bolts right out no extra work. Also never pull wheel sensor. They normally break off in the knuckle. Save ur self a ton of extra work
Awesome. Thanks for sharing.
Good video. What indicators lets you know you need to change your wheel barring?
Typically a growling or howling noise when driving. It will typically get louder when turning because inertia shifts more weight to the bad bearing and really loaded it up.
In this specific case, there were no functional problems with the actual bearing. The magnetic encoder ring fell off. This is needed for the wheel speed sensors to work, so my abs and stabilitrak were not working correctly.
Hey, so when I’m driving anything over 45 mph and try braking, my wheel starts to wobble and makes the steering wheel shake, do you think changing out the hub assembly would fix the problem
If it wobbles when braking, that is the result of warped rotors. Look into replacing your brake pads and brake rotors.
If it is a bad wheel bearing hub assembly, there would always be a humming/groaning sound, which gets worse when you turn. Not related to using the brakes.
How would ypu do the reat? I got to the bolys and it seems like tgeres no goof wsy to get to them.
The rears are easier. There is no axle not or steering involved. Just remove the three bolts, take it out, and put the new one in.
Why did change the wheel bearing?is the any symptoms to check bad wheels bearing?!
Could you help me please
i have noise come from front driver side after i hit 65mph its make the drive uncomfortable to me how to check the if the problem is from wheels bearing?! All my tires is brand new
If you are hearing noise, try turning/swerving left and right while driving. If the noise gets louder and quieter when you do this, it is likely the wheel bearing. Turning left will load up the right side bearings with additional force, and decrease the load on the left bearings. This will make the bad bearing louder when loaded with force, and quieter when unloaded.
do you rest the weight of the vehicle right there on the jackstands, or is the vehicle just floating above the stands?
Rest all of the weights of the vehicle onto the jackstands. They should hold all of the weight with no floor jack required at all. I just left the floor jack in place because why not? Otherwise, I would have to remove the floor jack then put it back again when I’m done. I had more than enough room to just leave it in position.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial okay. great video man.
Hello my power steering stopped working on my 2014 Chevy impala LTZ could you tell me anything about it
Hello! I have not had any power steering issues in this vehicle, so I’m not familiar with the details of the system.
The best I can tell you is that the power steering system in this vehicle is an electric motor. There is not the typical power steering pump with power steering fluid. I
The problem is likely an electrical problem. Loose wires or bad motor or something.
I would recommend starting with a Google search. Since this vehicle is now eight years old, it is very possible that there is a common problem with a well documented fix.
I’m sorry I could not be more help. Let me know how it goes!
@keaonia I just had the same issue with the power steering on my 2014 impala I had to replace the rack and pinion assembly ..
Hello, would the process be the same for the rear?
It’s essentially the same for the rear, but more simple. There is no axle shaft going through the center. The center of the wheel bearing hub assembly is just an empty hole. No axle and axle nut.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial Thank you so much for the prompt response! Just bought a used 2017 V6 model, dealer was kind enough to replace the front ones as they made a lot of noise. The back ones are starting to whine too, just ordered the parts :)
@@silencez2324 Happy to help. I hope it goes smoothly! Congrats on the new car. I really like mine.
Did you get all new bolts? If so where do i get them because i only bought the wheel bearings....
I personally reused all of the existing bolts.
I appreciate you replying because I was definitely unsure....but im going to do it this weekend...love you & the video
I was finally able to successfully complete my left front hub assembly using a breaker bar and a pipe. However, on my right front It as a nightmare with the rod assembly and the front shock . It would not align. I had to remove the shock and one of the rods to align it. Now i believe the brakes are making a horrible noise and my ABS light and stability lights are on. Do you think I reinstalled my caliper too tight or was it because I removed the shock and rod?
The ABS and Stabilitrak lights are the result of the wheel speed sensor not working properly.
How to Fix ABS and Stabilitrak Warning Error Lights | Speed Sensor | Wheel Bearing | Chevy Impala
ruclips.net/video/wtDWDb2tYQA/видео.html
Do the brakes always make a noise when the wheel is rotating? If so, probably just the dust shield rubbing on the rotor. Should be as easy as bending the dust shield back a bit.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial So I removed the calipers and discovered that in my frustration and rush, I placed one of my disc brakes backwards. Needless to say, it scratched the hell out of the rotor. Anyways, I corrected and now it makes a grinding noise when it slows down. You're right about the speed.sensor. The troubleshooting code confirmed it. Although I don't know why it went bad. I'll check the dust plate. I will give you a follow up
@@osso7891 Nice. It’s always good to find answers.
So, I finally had a chance to work on it today. It's not the dust plate rubbing against the rotor, but the caliper against the wheel! Its not loud, but it's very abvious. There is definitely rubbing marks on both the calipers and the rear wheel. What went Wrong?? I reinstalled the calipers and made sure they were tight. Also, I forgot to mention that the new AC Delco wheel bearing housing does NOT have a hole for the screw, so the rotor just moves around, but that didn't cause any problems on the drivers side. I'm thinking of redoing the whole thing because maybe something went wrong when I installed the wheel bearing housing??
@@osso7891 That definitely should not happen. The components stack up so everything is in the correct location with no interference.
First, I would make sure everything is in the tightened down security.
If it is, I would be looking at the wheel bearing. It is the only component in the equation that was changed. Maybe it’s the incorrect wheel bearing. Not having the tapped hole for the rotor adds some suspicion to that possibility.
1:15 --- now fling that screw as far as you can.
1 1/4 is NOT 32mm lmfao so thank you for that, after multiple trips to oreillys I finally figured its actually a 1 and 5/16 which is equivalent to 34MM NOT 32mm. So how did you manage to get a 1 1/4 on it???
Thanks for pointing this out.
I agree that 1-1/4” does not equal 34 mm (it is 31.75 mm).
The correct size is 34 mm. I do not have metric sockets that large. My 1-1/4” socket worked. The difference is only 2.25 mm, so my socket was likely slightly oversized/sloppy. But yes, 1-5/16” is the correct equivalent for 34 mm.
1-1/4” = 31.75 mm (32 mm socket)
34 mm = 1.34” (1-5/16” socket)
2 mm or 1/16” difference in socket size.
Sorry about the multiple trips to the parts store, glad you got it sorted out!
What are you talking about 32 mm?? He clearly said 34 and even wrote it in big red letters at 1:45 !!!
Well instructions are easy. However, I couldn't even get the caliper bolts loose. Tried a torque wrench, impact wrench. Why would they place it on there so damn tight?? I wasted a lot of time. Oh well will try to get it to a mechanic next week
Bummer. Well, it was a good try. We fail 100% of the things we don’t try. We’ll get it next time.
Yea I’m having the same problem
Great so I removed the ball joint and tie rod bolts for nothing. Now I need another $100 alignment..
Well, that’s another way to do it. I think you should be OK as long as you didn’t move the tie rod adjustment jam nuts.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial well my steering wheel is now pulled to the right I don’t know why but it never was before I removed the tie rod
@@yousefalshiekh4074 Bummer. Yeah, I would definitely get an alignment. I recommend getting a “lifetime alignment” if it’s available. The cost just a little bit more, but you can bring the vehicle in for an alignment at no cost, any time, for as long as you own the vehicle.