Yesterday I added thin bicycle inner tube to the bars and went for a ride. I am very impressed with the lessening of vibes through the bars. Excellent.
I have a free tip. All you have to do is set the kill switch to off and the Enfield will stop vibrating immediately. Just a little joke, sorry. I really like your videos.😁😇😎✌🤘🖖
hi ian .just done your mods on my 2017 classic 500 didnt have a problem whith the 2 top bolts about ten mins not been fr a ride yet done the engine as well .thanks fr all your vidios take care .from jeff...
Back in the day one way of reducing vibration through bars on big singles was to feed some tubing [sealed at both ends] filled with lead shot through the bars. The tubing is meant to be of a small enough diameter to able to move up and down inside - adding a sort of counter balance system.
hi ian just tried the rubber mods.vast inprovment olso done the bar ends did get a bit of vibes but not any more.must have the smoothest 500 in yorkshire ha ha thanks again jeff
OMG Necessity is the mother of invention with that inner tube handle bar trick Ian. I also like the way you reduced engine vibration at the engine mounts. Thank you for that # for the handle bars from hitchkocks. Impressed how Sue helps you out with your Enfields. The seat accents the petrol tank admirably. Bike looks Brand new. What do you know Ian about Air temperature sensor reposition on the Himalayan to reduce false heat indications. ( sensor being to close to engine)( 30 dollar sensor cable at hitchcocks for reposition) Thank you.
The 2021 Euro 5 Himalayan European model has the cat vertical on the front pipe.I believe a lot of the 2021 USA models are actually Euro 4 which has the cat vertical under the engine. The Euro 5 temperature sender has been moved. It is now in part of the rear mudguard to supposedly help get a truer reading. To be honest it is not a lot better. It is still picking up the heat from the engine and gives a much hotter temperature reading than it actually is. It's really just a bit of a gimmick. Thanks for your comments. I'll let Sue know.
I actually tried to put some thin rubber on the handlebars. I struggled for about an hour and then I gave up. I'll try again after this video and I'll try the other ones too; thank you
I have bought them from a builders merchant or a larger DIY store. What they are for is if you fit a metal corrugated sheet roof they are the washers you would use.
Thanks for this - very clear. I rode a bullet on the weekend and thought my teeth were gonna fall out after 10 minutes - when I got off the machine my hands were shaking - that said I did enjoy the ride and am still considering buying it. Can you suggest a good handlebar set up to give an even more relaxed riding position? Thanks a lot
That's very interesting, thank you. As I think I may have mentioned, I have two Classic 500s (one on a sidecar and one solo). One is a 2014 and one is a 2021 model, the 2021 model is a bit of a vibration monster. I have purchased a Carberry reduction plate that I intend to install. Have you considered one of these?
I have heard conflicting reports on them. Some people say they work and others say they don't. To be honest I'm not bothering as I think they can cause more damage.
Excellent video - thanks. I’m planning on using 2 Hitchcock Head Steadies. I notice they sell a 60mm long bolt but while this length may be fine for 1 Head Steady, it may not be long enough for 2. Hitchcock also sells a 70mm and I wonder whether you think this would be long enough? They also sell a 90mm but this will leave a substantial amount of threads showing and not look so neat. Finally, what torque setting do you advise for the Head-Steady nuts? Your response will be greatly appreciated.
I had to use a longer high tensile bolt in the frame but the one in the head was long enough. I think Hitchcock's headsteadies are quite a bit thicker because I think the ends have a rose joint on. I don't know what thickness they are. It might be worth messaging Hitchcock's and asking which size bolts they recommend. If you are thinking of using the rubber washers I used they work out about 4mm thick. The workshop manual doesn't give a torque setting. They are high tensile bolts so need to be tight but if you are going to use rubber washers as I did you can't go too tight as it would crush the rubber washers. Basically just use commonsense.
The bike is running great with the 20/50 engine oil. I have also noticed that the oil in the glass is still clear unlike when I had synthetic oil in it. In no time the oil had gone black. Engine runs smooth and quiet even after it is hot. The clutch works smooth all the time. Gear change is good etc. It runs like a Honda 😂
Do these 500s vibrate as much as a Triumph 650 twin would you know, i have a couple of old Triumph's & a 350 classic but i do fancy a 535 continental. Cheers Baz
In a word YES. After all it is a 500 single and a twin would always run smoother. As they come from the factory the stories you hear about terrible vibration are not exaggerated. People tend to use the word character of the bike to explain the bad vibrations. If you do the mods on my video I would say that mine is now no worse than modern day singles. I can sit and ride it all day long with no problem. As stock after an hour I couldn't stand it anymore in my hands and feet.
Well, this was brilliant. Have you given any thought to the Carberry Vibration plate? I have one but have not installed it. The Handlebars are a real problem with the 500's. I get absolutely numb hands after an hour of riding. Aftermarket grips have not helped. Your solution is so obvious and simple (but not easy, I take it) I have even thought of filling the handlebar with lead shot to get it to settle down.
Try what I did on the video. Honestly it definitely works. When I first had mine I was like you. After an hour my fingers were numb. I couldn't hold the throttle side.
Well I never thought of using inner tube for the bars, I tend to keep it at low revs but i may give this a go, on a side note, you changed the bars on yours, I'm thinking of doing the same, I need slightly higher ones? Tend to get back ache after 20 miles. Is that easy to do? Enough slack in cables etc? Thanks mate 👍🏼
I changed my bars for exactly the same reason as you want. The bars are higher and the pullback is more. I was able to fit them using all the stock cables just had to reroute them slightly.They were from Hitchcock's part no 45636A
@iantoy7778 Did you need to drill out any holes to stop the controls from spinning, any tips on drilling those in exactly the right place? also the clamp holding your bars on looks like it has a little screw in the middle where as mine doesn't have that 🤔 I've got the bars just need to work out the little things before committing
@@JamesAdam100 I didn't drill out any holes for the controls as the bars are English made and triple plated chromed. They are actually very slightly thicker than the stock bars. The throttle and switch gear clamped up tight with the screws. Regarding the little screw you can see in the middle of the clamp, as the bars are now rubber mounted I wasn't 100% sure that under heavy braking they might move. After making sure after a few trips and adjusting the bars to where I wanted them I drilled a 5mm hole through the clamp and through the bars, then tapped it out to 6mm thread and screwed in a 6mm stainless capped bolt. This was really just for peace of mind to be sure they wouldn't move due to being metal to rubber rather than metal to metal. It is quite safe to do this as bars that have internal wiring have a big hole in the centre of the bars to let the wires out.
@iantoy7778 Great, thank you, I'll have a go at mounting the new bars soon, great thinking with the screw through the clamp, I might steal that idea.. Appreciate the fast response 👌🏼
Yours is the cleanest Bullet I think I've ever seen - it's a credit to you!
Thanks. All my friends know what I am like for cleaning my bikes.
Yesterday I added thin bicycle inner tube to the bars and went for a ride. I am very impressed with the lessening of vibes through the bars. Excellent.
Pleased it worked for you
I have a free tip. All you have to do is set the kill switch to off and the Enfield will stop vibrating immediately. Just a little joke, sorry.
I really like your videos.😁😇😎✌🤘🖖
Never thought of that lol
hi ian .just done your mods on my 2017 classic 500 didnt have a problem whith the 2 top bolts about ten mins not been fr a ride yet done the engine as well .thanks fr all your vidios take care .from jeff...
Any problems let me know. If I can help I will.
Great advice, I fitted the 19t sprocket and carberry reduction plate and that's made a big difference.. still vibes at high revs but bearable.
Back in the day one way of reducing vibration through bars on big singles was to feed some tubing [sealed at both ends] filled with lead shot through the bars. The tubing is meant to be of a small enough diameter to able to move up and down inside - adding a sort of counter balance system.
hi ian just tried the rubber mods.vast inprovment olso done the bar ends did get a bit of vibes but not any more.must have the smoothest 500 in yorkshire ha ha thanks again jeff
Pleased it worked for you. Makes a much better bike to ride
@@iantoy7778 went for the ride didnt fell like coming home ploding alonge in top gear..
OMG Necessity is the mother of invention with that inner tube handle bar trick Ian. I also like the way you reduced engine vibration at the engine mounts. Thank you for that # for the handle bars from hitchkocks. Impressed how Sue helps you out with your Enfields. The seat accents the petrol tank admirably. Bike looks Brand new.
What do you know Ian about Air temperature sensor reposition on the Himalayan to reduce false heat indications. ( sensor being to close to engine)( 30 dollar sensor cable at hitchcocks for reposition)
Thank you.
The 2021 Euro 5 Himalayan European model has the cat vertical on the front pipe.I believe a lot of the 2021 USA models are actually Euro 4 which has the cat vertical under the engine. The Euro 5 temperature sender has been moved. It is now in part of the rear mudguard to supposedly help get a truer reading. To be honest it is not a lot better. It is still picking up the heat from the engine and gives a much hotter temperature reading than it actually is. It's really just a bit of a gimmick.
Thanks for your comments. I'll let Sue know.
I actually tried to put some thin rubber on the handlebars. I struggled for about an hour and then I gave up.
I'll try again after this video and I'll try the other ones too; thank you
Good luck. It's not easy but well worth persevering.
Thank you very much for the tutorial, would you know where I can find half rubber washers like yours? I'm in France. Thank you in advance ✌🏼
I have bought them from a builders merchant or a larger DIY store. What they are for is if you fit a metal corrugated sheet roof they are the washers you would use.
Thanks for this - very clear. I rode a bullet on the weekend and thought my teeth were gonna fall out after 10 minutes - when I got off the machine my hands were shaking - that said I did enjoy the ride and am still considering buying it. Can you suggest a good handlebar set up to give an even more relaxed riding position? Thanks a lot
also got the himalayan bouth from new 7 years this year ,,
Hope it's 7 years trouble free
@@iantoy7778 nearly just a couple of things..nowt dropped off fr a while.
That's very interesting, thank you. As I think I may have mentioned, I have two Classic 500s (one on a sidecar and one solo). One is a 2014 and one is a 2021 model, the 2021 model is a bit of a vibration monster. I have purchased a Carberry reduction plate that I intend to install. Have you considered one of these?
I have heard conflicting reports on them. Some people say they work and others say they don't. To be honest I'm not bothering as I think they can cause more damage.
thank for sharing
You're welcome
Excellent video - thanks. I’m planning on using 2 Hitchcock Head Steadies. I notice they sell a 60mm long bolt but while this length may be fine for 1 Head Steady, it may not be long enough for 2. Hitchcock also sells a 70mm and I wonder whether you think this would be long enough? They also sell a 90mm but this will leave a substantial amount of threads showing and not look so neat. Finally, what torque setting do you advise for the Head-Steady nuts? Your response will be greatly appreciated.
I had to use a longer high tensile bolt in the frame but the one in the head was long enough. I think Hitchcock's headsteadies are quite a bit thicker because I think the ends have a rose joint on. I don't know what thickness they are. It might be worth messaging Hitchcock's and asking which size bolts they recommend. If you are thinking of using the rubber washers I used they work out about 4mm thick.
The workshop manual doesn't give a torque setting. They are high tensile bolts so need to be tight but if you are going to use rubber washers as I did you can't go too tight as it would crush the rubber washers. Basically just use commonsense.
How is the bike getting on with the 20/50 engine oil you said you might use?
The bike is running great with the 20/50 engine oil. I have also noticed that the oil in the glass is still clear unlike when I had synthetic oil in it. In no time the oil had gone black. Engine runs smooth and quiet even after it is hot. The clutch works smooth all the time. Gear change is good etc. It runs like a Honda 😂
Do these 500s vibrate as much as a Triumph 650 twin would you know, i have a couple of old Triumph's & a 350 classic but i do fancy a 535 continental.
Cheers
Baz
In a word YES. After all it is a 500 single and a twin would always run smoother. As they come from the factory the stories you hear about terrible vibration are not exaggerated. People tend to use the word character of the bike to explain the bad vibrations. If you do the mods on my video I would say that mine is now no worse than modern day singles. I can sit and ride it all day long with no problem. As stock after an hour I couldn't stand it anymore in my hands and feet.
Well, this was brilliant. Have you given any thought to the Carberry Vibration plate? I have one but have not installed it. The Handlebars are a real problem with the 500's. I get absolutely numb hands after an hour of riding. Aftermarket grips have not helped. Your solution is so obvious and simple (but not easy, I take it) I have even thought of filling the handlebar with lead shot to get it to settle down.
Try what I did on the video. Honestly it definitely works. When I first had mine I was like you. After an hour my fingers were numb. I couldn't hold the throttle side.
Well I never thought of using inner tube for the bars, I tend to keep it at low revs but i may give this a go, on a side note, you changed the bars on yours, I'm thinking of doing the same, I need slightly higher ones? Tend to get back ache after 20 miles. Is that easy to do? Enough slack in cables etc?
Thanks mate 👍🏼
I changed my bars for exactly the same reason as you want. The bars are higher and the pullback is more. I was able to fit them using all the stock cables just had to reroute them slightly.They were from Hitchcock's part no 45636A
@iantoy7778 Did you need to drill out any holes to stop the controls from spinning, any tips on drilling those in exactly the right place? also the clamp holding your bars on looks like it has a little screw in the middle where as mine doesn't have that 🤔 I've got the bars just need to work out the little things before committing
@@JamesAdam100 I didn't drill out any holes for the controls as the bars are English made and triple plated chromed. They are actually very slightly thicker than the stock bars. The throttle and switch gear clamped up tight with the screws.
Regarding the little screw you can see in the middle of the clamp, as the bars are now rubber mounted I wasn't 100% sure that under heavy braking they might move. After making sure after a few trips and adjusting the bars to where I wanted them I drilled a 5mm hole through the clamp and through the bars, then tapped it out to 6mm thread and screwed in a 6mm stainless capped bolt. This was really just for peace of mind to be sure they wouldn't move due to being metal to rubber rather than metal to metal.
It is quite safe to do this as bars that have internal wiring have a big hole in the centre of the bars to let the wires out.
@iantoy7778 Great, thank you, I'll have a go at mounting the new bars soon, great thinking with the screw through the clamp, I might steal that idea..
Appreciate the fast response 👌🏼