I think you might like this book - "HIGH DENSITY APPLE ORCHARDS MANAGEMENT: Selection of Apple Root Stock" by PRAJJUAL MAKHAIK. Start reading it for free: amzn.in/aeF2UOf
I’m trellising my newly planted cider apple orchard laid out on a 10’ x 10’ spacing to a planar system with a 6’ top wire but bamboo stakes at each fruiting branch that will extend to 8’ or higher. My goal is to interplant plant trees next year reducing my tree spacing to 5’ but which to start with what I have now. My rows are mulched with 4’ wide rows of wood chips to promote mycorrhizal fungi, retain moisture during the growing season, and keep the soil warmer during winter. Center rows are planted in fescue and Dutch white clover for nitrogen.
Sir, the latest techniques of following rootstocks system is extremely wonderful but this is very troublesome and costly affair involving lot of infrastructure on training and other cultural practices. It is not possible to do this type of Horticulture in India as apple is generally grown here in mountainous regions which are slopy. I don't think it a financial paying off proposition. Life span is also very small hardly upto a decade and very early declining symptoms starts emerging. The only benefit is they come into bearing much early as compared to conventional seedling rootstocks. I will whole heartedly welcome and solicit your detailed views on its benefits. Thanks. With heartiest regards.
You could run your rows across the slope, rather than up and down it. (best suited to a southern slope). You could also modify the system you see here by utilizing a longer living, better anchored, semi-dwarfing rootstock (like Geneva 890). These Rootstocks are far better anchored and vigorous (more suited to the types of soils and weather conditions you're likely facing). A better anchored tree is less reliant on the trellis, and so the trellis can be less expensive to build (kept to a short height to best utilize the narrow rows, it ends up being little more substantial than a high-tensile wire fence (like would be used for livestock), quite adaptable to slopes). I've planted my trees much like what you see here, I space my trees at 7 feet (2.4m) in row, with rows 7 feet (2.1m) apart. Bottom wire is at 18 inches (45cm), middle wire is at 4 feet (1.2m), and the top wire is at 7feet (2.1m). Trees are kept to roughly 8 feet (2.4m) tall. I use the cordon and upright fruiting offshoot system for everything I have (cherry (mahaleb rs), plum (Krymsk99 rs) , pear (OHxF 87), apple (G890), apricot (Krymsk99), and peach (Krymsk1) (peach and tip bearing apples are a little more challenging, requiring more space between the uprights due to the fruiting habits). Being able to pick 80% + of the fruit from the ground is far faster and safer than crawling up and down ladders, earlier and higher yields are just a plus. Sure, the trees only live 15-20 years (10-16 of which are at full mature production), compared to a standard tree's 50-75; but 10 years of the standard tree are spent not-fruiting, and even the mature yields are low per acre. These systems are more productive in their 3rd or 4th fruiting season than traditional orchards are at full maturity. At full maturity, you're looking at 8-10x the production per year (150-200ton/ha) vs traditional orchards (20ton/ha). The simpler canopies of the hedged systems also are easier/faster to prune. These systems allow you to manage more acres with the same number of people, or utilize less labor for the same number of acres. If you have 5 acres available to plant orchards on, it is far more productive and profitable to plant a third of an acre per year for 15 years like this, than it would be to plant all 5 acres at once in a traditional, low density manner.
Fantastic public service science Stuart, thanks for sharing
very interesting. Growing that much fruit per hectare would be super efficient ! Hope to see more farms adopt this type of farming
great video
Any updates on how this is progressing?
Does this density affect fruit size?
Would like to see the update
can I use MM111 root with non spur &galas for this canopy
probably too vigorous
The French have done something very much like this for centuries. The Espaliered Method. It tends to be more horiztontal than horizontal then lateral.
هل تصلح جميع اشحار لزراعة مكثفة؟
Will the trees not blow over in high winds?
Very nice.
No armor on the ground?
sir, witch rootstock used for this?
I’m guessing bu9 or m9.maybe even g11
M9 is used
wow' thanks for the great information sir, brilliant
I think you might like this book - "HIGH DENSITY APPLE ORCHARDS MANAGEMENT: Selection of Apple Root Stock" by PRAJJUAL MAKHAIK.
Start reading it for free: amzn.in/aeF2UOf
How much is life of these trees
Very interesting
Hello, What root stocks are being used for this system?
My guess would be mm106 or something slightly more vigorous.. you could use m9 for a downsized home version. That would bear early.
@@ajones8699 your guess is wrong this is m9
@2:07 would the tree block off most of the sunlight to the trees behind it, especially when the sun is low?
Not if the uprights are kept simple without too many branches
I’m trellising my newly planted cider apple orchard laid out on a 10’ x 10’ spacing to a planar system with a 6’ top wire but bamboo stakes at each fruiting branch that will extend to 8’ or higher. My goal is to interplant plant trees next year reducing my tree spacing to 5’ but which to start with what I have now. My rows are mulched with 4’ wide rows of wood chips to promote mycorrhizal fungi, retain moisture during the growing season, and keep the soil warmer during winter. Center rows are planted in fescue and Dutch white clover for nitrogen.
Why the stems are covered to protect from sun burn
Protects the trunks from herbicide spray and rabbit damage
What is the orientation of these rows ? true north ?
That was my first thought.. shame no could be bothered to answer you.
Guess it's the proprietary detail they won't share on youtube!
N- S ... general thumb rule😎
Yes, N-S orientation is optimal
They use this method to grow apple trees in Argentina
Sir, the latest techniques of following rootstocks system is extremely wonderful but this is very troublesome and costly affair involving lot of infrastructure on training and other cultural practices. It is not possible to do this type of Horticulture in India as apple is generally grown here in mountainous regions which are slopy. I don't think it a financial paying off proposition. Life span is also very small hardly upto a decade and very early declining symptoms starts emerging. The only benefit is they come into bearing much early as compared to conventional seedling rootstocks. I will whole heartedly welcome and solicit your detailed views on its benefits. Thanks. With heartiest regards.
Yes best suited to flat land
You could run your rows across the slope, rather than up and down it. (best suited to a southern slope). You could also modify the system you see here by utilizing a longer living, better anchored, semi-dwarfing rootstock (like Geneva 890). These Rootstocks are far better anchored and vigorous (more suited to the types of soils and weather conditions you're likely facing). A better anchored tree is less reliant on the trellis, and so the trellis can be less expensive to build (kept to a short height to best utilize the narrow rows, it ends up being little more substantial than a high-tensile wire fence (like would be used for livestock), quite adaptable to slopes).
I've planted my trees much like what you see here, I space my trees at 7 feet (2.4m) in row, with rows 7 feet (2.1m) apart. Bottom wire is at 18 inches (45cm), middle wire is at 4 feet (1.2m), and the top wire is at 7feet (2.1m). Trees are kept to roughly 8 feet (2.4m) tall. I use the cordon and upright fruiting offshoot system for everything I have (cherry (mahaleb rs), plum (Krymsk99 rs) , pear (OHxF 87), apple (G890), apricot (Krymsk99), and peach (Krymsk1) (peach and tip bearing apples are a little more challenging, requiring more space between the uprights due to the fruiting habits).
Being able to pick 80% + of the fruit from the ground is far faster and safer than crawling up and down ladders, earlier and higher yields are just a plus. Sure, the trees only live 15-20 years (10-16 of which are at full mature production), compared to a standard tree's 50-75; but 10 years of the standard tree are spent not-fruiting, and even the mature yields are low per acre. These systems are more productive in their 3rd or 4th fruiting season than traditional orchards are at full maturity. At full maturity, you're looking at 8-10x the production per year (150-200ton/ha) vs traditional orchards (20ton/ha). The simpler canopies of the hedged systems also are easier/faster to prune. These systems allow you to manage more acres with the same number of people, or utilize less labor for the same number of acres.
If you have 5 acres available to plant orchards on, it is far more productive and profitable to plant a third of an acre per year for 15 years like this, than it would be to plant all 5 acres at once in a traditional, low density manner.
Nice
Nice❤