How to Prune Apple Trees | Tips for Pruning Espaliered Apple Trees
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- It's that time of year again and I'm ready to get out there and show you how to prune apple trees one more time. We'll go over some tips for pruning espaliered apple trees for fruit production as well as shaping them. These pruning techniques will also apply to standard upright growing apple trees.
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Thanks for my annual pruning fix! Gives me confidence I'm on the right lines with my two trees over here. If your trees were my trees I think I'd leave the lower branches in. They might not be fruiting much now, but once the tree is older I think they'll join in. And given the amount of fruit you got last year I can't see those lower branches are robbing very much if anything at all. Plus if you chop them out you won't be able to replace them and you'll be moving away from that classic espailier look. It's your call, I'll be interested to see what you decide and why
Thanks Alan, I appreciate the insight.
I hope my apple and pear trees look as good as yours one day. The form is excellent.
Thanks man. Yours will be there too. I think these have been in ground for around 6 years, maybe a little longer.
Starting my first espaliered apple trees this year. Thanks for the winter pruning tips.
Prune baby prune! Have fun.
I'd leave the lower T branches, you've reduced the apical vigor which will distribute the auxin through the whole of the tree and will help give vigour to the bottom branches and therefore more fruit. I wouldnt say the bottom branching will rob the upper branching, I'd say they would give more vigour to the tree over all and more apples as there will be more leaves doing their thing to be able to grow and sustain more fruit. More leaves, more growth all over. Once the lower branching sprouts are 2 years old you will get more fruit spurs growing. They also look right, imagine them gone, there will be a big unnecessary un optomised space under the top T branching. For every reason I'd leave them. Beautiful trees by the way 🙏
Thanks for your thoughts on the matter. It's a tough decision and that's why I'm waiting to make it. If I remove them, it would take a long time to get them back.
@@MikeKincaid79 Maybe remove one or two trees and use this as an opportunity to experiment and learn and make a video about it? :)
You've got the wrong root stock
Hi Mike! Is February 6 today 🤣🤣🤣(could not resist the smart remark) Lucky, I love apples! I planted some, will see! At the other house I didn't have any fruit, hopefully will have some here. Please 🙏 for me, dad is home on hospice and is so sad. I have been stressing about it and my husband had a heart attack in Nov, I was in the er almost a month ago, my blood pressure is so high....ugh! Praise God for He strengthens me every moment. Great video, good to see you like always! Hugs and blessings 🤗💞🤗
LOL, I have to quit telling you guys the date. I can never seem to get these videos out on time, hahaha.
That's ok, just need to say the filming date.🤣
Perfect timing, I was looking at my apple & pear tree today. Thanks for sharing 😊
Time to prune!
This is very timely. I just tore out my 40 foot old apple trees. Time to start over. This seems way more manageable. Thanks 👍🏼
That's commitment! I'm about to tear out an old tree too.
I’ve pruned my central branches out more to promote side growth. Thanks for the bud - I’ve had a hard time finding espalier systems.
Thanks for a great video. I’m about to set up some apple and pear trees as espalier and found your video exceptionally helpful. Liked and subscribed immediately! 👍🏻😎
Glad it was helpful! Good luck with your trees.
Thanks a bunch Mike. As always excellent work and great job of explaining what you’re doing. It sure helps.
Glad you're here, Luke!
Luv all u do for kindness to teach.
Glad you're here to learn!
That is a beautiful thing, Mike. 💜
Thanks!
I'd love to see a video on how Mrs. K. makes and preserves the apple pie filling. Yum!
I told her! We've got more than we know what to do with right now. Maybe next fall I'll help film her doing it.
Yeah I'm agreeing with you about trimming the bottom branches due to the fact they are not producing well. And I like the idea about running it with the fencing I'm going to try that
Thanks Stephanie! I think the trees will look better too.
Thank you for the informative video. I'm ready to go out to the garden and do some pruning on my apples and pears, espalier trees.
:)
Me too! It’s that time of year.
Thanks so much for this Mike! I’ll be working on my 2 espalier soon and this is a great refresher!
No problem. They just keep getting better every year and look so beautiful. Good luck with your trees!
Wow, they look great. 👍 Wonderful job. 👍🍎 🥧. Thanks for the tutorial.
Thanks Darla!
The shading issue is the reason for the "candelabra" form. A little late on your established trees, but if you plant any more, you could try that form.
Establish your cordon between 12"-18", and then select an upright shoot roughly every foot down the cordon, grow those up to 7'-8'. Summer prune for light and air, and then prune the largest upright in the tree back to a 1"-2" stub every year after year 5.
Commercial trials in NZ are showing between 160 and 190 metric tons (352,000-419,000 lbs) per hectare (2.47 acres) with this form utilizing roughly 7'x7' spacing.
I'd prune out the bottom cordon on your trees, and plant Raspberries, Strawberries and Rhubarb under the "arms" of the trees.
Wow, interesting. I love the style that I pruned for but I'm always open to suggestion on training new trees. Thanks.
Thank you for all wonderful videos! I wish you showed few minutes close up doing the pruning- where do you actually cut and how do you decide which branches you get rid off and what you leave. That’s be helpful!
I’ve got more detailed videos about it.
Hi Mike,
I’m new to planting fruit trees and just gardening in general but I’ve been enjoying learning about the espalier method. I’d like to request a video please: planting your new fruit tree and training it for espalier growing. Maybe a series of it please? Thank you so much.
Glad you enjoy the videos. I do plan to make a series about espaliered trees from start to finish. I was thinking about doing this with a fig tree.
@@MikeKincaid79 that would be much appreciated! Thanks! Can’t wait!
Can you show us your deer fencing and how you protect your trees? The deer destroyed everything here
Yeah, I'll put a video together.
With all those suckers you have to prune they will be great if bagged, labeled and put in the refrigerator for grafts and such a lot of places have swaps for trading if you like to graft but they sell them also you do have a lot. They just have to be dormant when done.
Thanks again for the info. And the "almost phobia" about pulling stubborn weeds, and messing up my hands.
Haha, glad you have a healthy fear now, I know I sure do. It's a real thing and I've got the bum finger to prove it, lol.
I'm glad to see you're branching out from the figs for a minute. But I know you will fig-ure your way back to it. Lol
LOL
😮 that's the most hard core apple and pear tree pruning I have ever seen .. I would cut the lower ones out next year .. you already too more than anyone would tell you is safe .. but I mean I would let them get a little taller like another 5 feet let them grow a little more and less pruning ... I got some 28 year old trees that are getting a good trimming this week
Mike, I love those trees, wish you was here to help me get mine started, I do not have a clue where to begin, and I don't know if this will work on all kinds if trees. I have peach, apple that has 3 different kinds of apples on it, pomergranate, etc.Love the video, and love to to you and the family❣️💖💖💖
It's so much easier than most people think, just takes time. You just need a wire to train the branches. Start by picking 2 branches and bending them along the wire, then tie to the wire. The rest just takes time. My trees started as regular trees with regular branching. I planted them in the ground, next to the wire. Then I just bent the best branches toward the wire.
Very helpful video Mike, thanks for doing this! Love what you’re creating. The production on those trees is crazy. Do you think this makes the apples more productive because it maximizes sunlight and airflow compared to standard spacing but with say trees still pruned to this shorter height?
Sunlight and air flow play a big part but I think pruning over time is the biggest factor. The roots continue to grow and have an easy time supporting a well managed tree, as well as all the fruit.
I agree , an espalier will look off with out the lower branches.
Great video! You have those lower branches so nice and even though. How about this middle ground option? Leave for one more year. Do summer pruning thoroughly to allow more light in. If no fruit spurs on lower branches this time next year, then they go away.
How many years have you been waiting for the lower branches to produce? Hard to go wrong. They look great with or without lower branches.
Long time watcher, new subscriber. Thanks for the great info you share and being so personable!
Thanks so much for being here! I've been working on these trees for probably close to 6 years now, maybe even longer. There's something I haven't liked about the lower branches for a couple years and they don't seem to fit the trees as much as the upper branches thicken. I appreciate your vote and will consider heavily.
I would like to see the results you achieve on this pruning session like from pruning to fruit harvesting so one can see the stages of fruit production. It could be a lot of work for you on editing though.
I don't mind the editing work. I'll put my mind to it.
Apple tree pruning is an art unto itself! Thank you for furthering our collective knowledge on the subject, Mr. K, it is much appreciated!
You’re welcome, Paul. It’s definitely good to share experiences. We all get better that way
I'd leave the lower branches for another year, then reassess at that time.
Thanks for the vote
Cool. Just like grapevines
can I make a regular multi apple tree into esparlier?? ;) what a GREAT video..FULL of help, THANK YOU ;)
Yes, for sure. You might get branches that grow at different rates due to the different cultivars but you can still do this.
Hi, I'm a new subscriber here. Thank you for that informative pruning video. Maybe I should prune my apple tree which I planted out from a seed. I thought it was from a gala apple seed but it came out like green. Last year finally it turned yellowish some were light red like a gala apple. But I should trim it so it won't grow taller that I couldn't reach it anymore. So the best time to trim it is when there's no more leaves so I could see the branches well.
There's winter pruning and summer pruning and they achieve different purposes. I've got some videos about it: Winter Pruning: ruclips.net/video/qwbC9LiTIJE/видео.html Summer Pruning: ruclips.net/video/EHl2qdMgl00/видео.html
If you want to thicken up the scaffolds, consider festooning the branches in Summer in place of pruning. Pruning during the growing season results in less scaffold wood. Festooning will still get you all the fruiting spurs you want, without sacrificing vigor. You can hang ornaments if that is your thing, but I prefer used water bottles and twine.
My Dad use to do that with his apple trees. I'm going for a specific look with these trees and the festooning would destroy that look. I think I'm going to be less lazy this summer and pinch the new growth as it begins, while selecting for fruit spurs.
Hi Mike, love the video! If they were my trees, I would leave the lower level. As you said it is an art form and I'm sure it would be more beautiful in the spring with the 2 layers of flowers. A bit off topic, do you have any suggestions how to protect apple trees from codling moth? I am in Grand Junction, Colorado and this is a real problem here. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
There are sprays to help with this. Unfortunately, it's a problem everywhere.
You’ve made a fantastic feature of those fruit trees, looks flipping awesome! I have to prune my apple tree back but I also wanted to move from a large pot into the ground, should I not do both do you think? One of the other or maybe prune then leave it a while before moving it? Thanks Mike, great content👍
You can so it all during the dormant season. The first year I planted these, that's what I did. I planted them in soil and pruned them the way I wanted them. They are basically giant dormant hardwood cuttings but with roots attached already. Go for it!
Do you do summer pruning. The growth looks like a lot for summer pruning. Thnx
Yes, I usually do, and you should.
If you do decide to remove the lower branches, you should air layer them. Then make more apple fencing.
I hadn't even considered that but that's a great idea.
I'd like to start an espallier orchard. Do you have a video of when you first planted these trees and their initial pruning to create the shape you want?
I wish I did but I wasn't on RUclips much at the time. This was 6 or 7 years ago and I didn't film it. I will be planting more fruit trees in the same style so I'll film that.
My opinion is to cut the beautiful formed upper cordon . And develop the lower cordon . On the other hand you got my permissoon to remove the lower cordon which are low enough to be decimated by groundhog s . Those guys will break the entire branches off to get to the low hanging fruit
No groundhogs in my region. My biggest problem is keeping the deer out.
I think the bottom branches provide shade for the tree it’s self maybe less watering
Shellie and I were out there a couple days ago and she shot down my idea of cutting the bottom branches off, lol.
@@MikeKincaid79 it looks better even if there isn’t fruit
Mike, how did the apple trees do last fall making apples after you pruned them so hard? Thanks
Not many apples after pruning so hard but I plan to get the summer pruning in this year so I can get back to good crops.
Brilliant video thank you!
Why haven’t you done a Japanese Maple propagation from cuttings?
I have, just haven't filmed it.
Nice work Mike. Hey have you ever grafted a 🍐 onto an apple 🍎 tree. Mixing things up a little. 🔮💓🔮🔭
I hate to say that anything is impossible but the 2 plants aren't genetically similar enough, and as far as I know, it's never been done.
@@MikeKincaid79 I pretty sure there is a professor up at Syracuse University that created a salad tree with several types of fruit.
@@Ditchgrl yes his name is Sam van aken. He’s famous for a tree called. Fourty in one. 40. -1
I've read about this and I think you're referring to the stone fruit tree. All the varieties are related. They are all stone fruits, like peaches, nectarines, apricots, cherries, etc.
Curious how far apart you put your posts on these trees?
There's either a wood post or a T-post every 10 feet. So each tree is spread out 10 feet. It's a little long and you will need wire support but it creates a really nice dramatic effect.
Donno about espalier, but that long Golden Dorsett was pruned last July and looks fine. The capulin cherry was prumed last month, but nothing off the citrus. One fig lost a lot of brush, tho. Too much nitrogen, mebbe. It's next to some mesquite. Nor am I pruning the grapes. Loquats must be planted ASAP! Same with the pistachio. Hasta, nieto!
We're getting to that time of year when there's more to do than we have time for, lol
@@MikeKincaid79 Nope, plenty of time, as long as it 36 hour days and 17 day weeks LOL. Finally getting the solar food dryer together. Next up, get the wringer washer working, now that winter is over, shish! But, the rainwater tank needs to be be done ASAP. I'm praying for another monsoon season like the last two, plenty over average. Hasta, nieto!
I suggest you leave the lower branches a couple more years and see if they will produce fruit.
Shellie and I were out in the orchard the other day and she immediately shut down my idea of cutting the lower branches. So I guess they're staying for now.
Does the fruit tree have to be of the dwarf variety?
No, not at all.
I wish I had done my apple trees like this,mine are out of control and I never get apples.
It's really never too late, Sally. Cut them back and start training them to grow the way you want them to grow.
Would you suggest the same for peaches that you did for the apples? Thanks💐
I’d trim the bottom branches just so the upper branches can get the nutrients
I'm thinking the same. As far as peaches, you can prune them to shape just like these apples. I've never personally done it but I have the peach trees and plan on starting that project soon.
@@MikeKincaid79 perfect! Thanks! As soon as weather permits I’m going to be a busy lady🤭💐
Can never have too many good producing fruit trees.
Not just pie filling, but juice, cider, apple and pear sauce and so n not to mention that apple a day each of us need.
As well as donating or selling excess.
From my perspective, the lower branches are not getting enough light.
That's what I love about orchard plants like trees and berries. They give back year after year and get better with time.
The the pears have the same issue (lower branches not producing?)
Yes
@@MikeKincaid79 it is so frustrating! Same with my espaliers !
Yep, I may just cut those branches off.
Did you save any of the suck branches you pruned off to use as scions for new trees?
I’m looking into grafting some this year
This was a year or 2 ago, and I didn't save any that year.
@@MikeKincaid79 but those would have worked to graft with?
I have 5 apple trees now that I need to do some pruning on. If I can get some rootstock I should be able to use the pruned branches to get new trees growing? Am I on the right track?
Yes, you’re on the right track and you can absolutely graft them. Just cut the scions while dormant, place in a gallon zip lock bag, and wait until spring. Once the rootstock starts showing signs of waking up, it’s time to graft.
Awesome!! I just ordered rootstock and some scions yesterday
Hlo Mike I saw your old vedios in which pinky finger is not working well can you please tell me how much it cost for surgery of your finger
Everything out the door was about $5,500
@@MikeKincaid79 very very thankyou for your reply
a very nice clip mike. i'd take the lower branches off. of course they are stealing from the upper limbs. amangare' mike.
Man, that's exactly what I'm thinking. Great minds think alike. Hope all is well with you Carmine.
@@MikeKincaid79- i've pulled a few muscles in my lower back and I'm having spasms. some are so bad I could scream. flexor and naproxen are my go-to meds. this happens every few months mike. i think chiropractic is my next approach. getting older is tough. cp.
be well, stay well yourself mike.
I hear ya. I'm on the starting end of getting old and beginning to understand what my Dad complained about 25 years ago, haha. Do you ever stretch your hamstring muscles? That's where most back pain comes from, tight hamstrings. Loosen them up over time and you may fix your back pain.
So I was really curious about that work you said "amangare' ". I looked it up in google translate and it looks like it's Zulu for "don't worry". Is that what you meant or was this a typo?
leave the lower branch for at least one more season
propagate apple hardwood cuttings
If the lower branches aren't producing, cut them out. Plus, if they aren't there you can duck under the row if you want to.
That's funny to hear you say that, Julie. You can imagine how many times I've wanted to duck under these trees but can't because of the low branches.
@@MikeKincaid79 I watched the video where you trimmed the trees with your daughter and the whole time I was thinking...they have to walk all the way around to reach the other side every time! It made me nuts on your behalf. LOL.
I would keep the lower branches. Give them time. You know the lower branches always grow slower. However I think (and I have nothing to back it up but gut instinct) given time you will be able to get a good amount of fruit spurs on the lower limbs. Them not fruiting as much is a good thing, because you shouldn't have to thin as much. From what I've heard if you strain your trees with a heavy fruiting year, the following year you won't get as much fruit. Don't be inpatient like me. Having half the tree pre- thinned cuts down on your work load.
I definitely need to thin the fruit in the summer and do a little more summer pruning. I'll have to do it this year, after such a harsh pruning. Not sure I'll get that much fruit this year off these trees but they'll rebound. I do agree with you and need to thin the fruit more.
You should leave the lower level....summer prune the new water sprouts by just bending them out of the main branch by hand (they will come off clean, sort of like pulling a weed with roots)....this will ensure no new sprouts will grow left and right off the removed sprout (if you cut it off by the collar it will generate new sprouts). By doing the summer pruning the lower level will get more sun and air and be healthier.
Thanks for the vote. I still haven't decided but I think I'm going to focus more on pinching the new growth this summer so I don't have as much of a mess again next winter.
@@MikeKincaid79 Yes, summer pruning those water spouts will reduce reimergence of those. Winter pruning always encourages stronger growth spurts. But bending the new water sprouts out of their socket is critical to minimizing new sprouts (instead of cutting them out).
The lower branches are beautiful but not fruit producing? Tough call. If both beauty and abundance are important, keep. If not, remove?
As they lag behind more and more in growth, they almost seem to not fit the design of the trees. I feel as if the trees would look better without them. They were for beauty at first but I'm now thinking they'd look better without the lower branches. What to do, what to do.
🙂
Frutsper... frutsper... frutsper...
Starting to get the picture?
Hlo
Wanna send out some scions haha
There sure are enough of them to go around, lol
Right you removed a lot of material from those trees im going to graft a couple diff varieties in the two trees I have this year and take my shot at grafting some Asian pears on the two wild Bradford (callery pear ) trees I have in the yard
Hai tagliato troppo hai mandato la pianta a cercare lo sviluppo vegetativo.
Sì è vero
When's your next fig video 😂
I'll post another one when I'm good and figgin ready to, lol
@@MikeKincaid79mr. Tough fig lol
Cut the lower branches off on ONE, then you can compare them.
That's a thought. Thanks!
Mike, Thanks for the vid. Nice job!!! My vote would be to keep the first scaffold. Those branches will provide much needed photo synthesis for a heavily ladened fruit set. And seems to me that espalier is a heavily pruned tree. Each tree just might benefit from those little solar panels (leaves) even if the branches themselves do not set much fruit. I am no expert...... just a guess on my part. Cheers!!!!
Thanks 👍 and good point. Something to consider.
Excellent video! You have a great communication style!
I would prune the lower branches on one tree and see how it impacts fruit production. They may need the leaves to help feed the fruit. Then if it did not impact the fruit production I would trim off all the lower branches.
That's a good thought. I'm still not sure and am anguishing over this one, haha. The older the trees get, the less those bottom branches look good and add to the beauty.
Great help have old fruit trees cherry plum apples pear need to be appears brutal thanks rob
That looks like a grape vine pruning style
Update please!
Thanks Mike, it helps me with my fruit trees and grapes!
Right on! Speaking of grapes, I need to do cuttings again this year.
❤
DON’T cut the lower branches off the espaliered apple tree
Every year I think about it and every year I keep myself from doing it.
I wouldn't prune the lower level yet give it a few more years. Don't forget to you can selectively reduce fruit thru the season. I leave a good amount on the branch and as the summer goes by I check them and take out any fruit that has blemishes or marks or bug bites. Trying to leave 1 to 2 fruit that can ripen
I probably should thin the fruit through the season.
Do you have a video on starting espalier trees? I plan on getting pears and peach this spring, if I can find the variety of apple I want I'll be getting that too.
I am excited that I found out about this method because I've always wanted fruit trees but never had space for them, learning about this has opened that door for me.
My local garden center sells bare root trees in the spring and that's what I plan on getting if I can.
That's what I started with, bare root trees. I don't have a video about the training of these trees because I wasn't doing RUclips back them. It's easy to do though, you just need to pick the best branches and bend them over, attaching to a wire.
@@MikeKincaid79 Thanks :)
And I'm guessing cut the leader at the height you want the tree to stay?
How many years did it take before you got fruit?
The bare root trees at my garden center that didn't sell got potted up and I saw them with apples on them already when I went in mid/late summer, I was surprised cause I figured they wouldn't bare fruit the first year.
Leaving the lower levels gives something for young children to Harvest, when they are helping in the orchard.
I originally thought the same but my girls have long since grown to the height of the upper branches. Maybe I should leave them for grandkids. Hard to imagine now but I suppose I'll be there someday.
Sir, what variety is that, do you sell cuttings, thank you sir
I have several varieties. Fuji, Gala, yellow delicious.
Do you dormant spray them at all? I’m here in PNW also and we have a lot of problems w the cuddle moth, how about you?
I have never sprayed them with anything since planting. Yes, I do struggle with cuddle moth and may start spraying for it at some point. I really don't like the idea of spraying my trees and have tried to wait it out but it has been a problem.
All the sap has been used up by the upper branches, so the lower branches are weakened. You may need to control the top growth during the summer to allow more light and sap for the lower branches if you want to keep them.
That's in interesting thought. Maybe I need to continue heavy pruning through the year so that the energy doesn't all go to suckers.
A c cut under the top joints might help control the growth.
That 's the first thing I thought of too. Those dense upper branches are cutting the amount of light going to the lower branches.
Thanks dear, Mike you give new techniq about apple 🍎 treatment Thanks
I cut everything that points down.
Good idea
The lower bottom branches are prob being shaded out too much to be a benefit.
Possibly
No! Let them grow taller ; make another level of arms
They do look elegant and different with many layers. I might do that with a fig tree.
Holy cow that was a lot of pruning...
Sure was
Do you have to shape them like that?
Yes. I started with standard upright fruit trees and trained the branches along the wire.
Great video. I have one espelliar apple! No frut yt after two yrs in ground. Well when i bought it at the nursery it had one apple on it so i THOUGHT it should be ready to make apples! The next yr. Question! How long can u let the branches spread lengthwise on the wires? Ive stopped mine at about 4 ft or so, wonder how long you should let them spread across the fence line?
It’s really up to you. Mine are 10 feet long from end to end but they’re pretty long and a lot of weight hangs from them. 4 feet sounds good.
Mine took a few years to reliably fruit.
Love your fruit tree videos! I wonder if your lower branches are less productive due to less sun exposure. Are your support lines oriented N-S? An E-W orientation would expose more of the lower leaves to full mid-day sun exposure over the course of the growing season. Is this rationale reasonable?
They’re oriented north/south. Just the way it worked out as this was an old cattle fence line. That’s an interesting thought about the midday sun being blocked in this orientation.
@@MikeKincaid79 I read that the N-S orientation might work well in open areas like you have. Perhaps the upper rows are just getting more fruiting hormone from the leaves with more sun exposure. Then again, maybe a summer prune on the lower row could encourage more bud growth?
I would try this for a couple years before deciding to remove the lower rows.
I live in zone 8 and pruned my 3 Apple trees & 3 Pear trees in February and lost 1 Apple tree & 2 Pear trees but I don’t know why they died.
I'm sorry to hear that. How do you know they died? Reason I ask is because it's winter in the northern hemisphere and everything is dormant. We won't know what survived until spring. If you're in the Southern Hemisphere then you don't want to do any massive pruning in the summer or you can kill a plant that way.
@@MikeKincaid79 when I Pruned them last February they didn’t produce leaves last spring or since i pruned them last February.
I believe you’d have to do some pretty hard cutbacks on your upper scaffolding to drive energy back to the lower scaffolding & defeat that topical dominance. I say cut them and get your chicken run in.
I sure do dig this espalier apple series, brother. I hope you get some time this summer to teach us (well, teach me anyway) about the summer pruning. Especially then “when” and the “why”
I'll plan it for ya
Was wondering if you propagated the suckers and if they worked? If so could we see results?
I haven't done that yet but plan on doing it at some point this winter. I will film it when it happens.
@@MikeKincaid79 ok thank you
Mike, your stuff is always great! If you got a moment, any thoughts on this pruning question I wrestle with as our trees are in a similar situation. I feel like cutting water sprouts out and heavy pruning here in the winter results in bolting trees in the summer. I am testing this right now with some apple and cherry trees, but is it better to cut those sprouts out in summer, so that the trees not only forms fruit spurs, but also so that bolting is more retarded. It seems like wherever one cuts in the winter triggers the tree into huge growth off of those cuts. One cut can result in 3-4 water sprouts that next growing season. What's your input and thoughts?
Yes, that's exactly right. The ideal situation would be to keep on top of the sucker growth all summer and just pinch it off as it starts to emerge. The only reason to let them grow longer is to come back in mid summer and prune for fruit spurs. Why did I wait? Sheer laziness mid summer, lol.
@MikeKincaid79 Got it...I am seeing that, too! Two years in a row, I gave a heavy pruning to two cherry trees in my front yard, and each year, I have crazy amounts of vertical shoots about 5' to 8' tall. And, I got distracted (or lazy) and never cut them back in the summer, so now I stare at them in the winter with regret. The 3rd time will be the charm. I'm looking forward to watching what is next...
I've planted 2apple trees 1 pear,1 plum and a cherry.Had 2 apple's no pear no plums and a few 🍒 What am I doing wrong?
How long ago did you plant them?
4 years ago and I live in a wooded area I've planted Oak ,ash and silver birch tree and they thrive brilliantly . Fruit trees not good
By the way I live N W in Ireland
Are you keeping any of your trimmings to use for cuttings?
Not from this pruning, but I've got another apple tree I intent to use.
@@MikeKincaid79 Nice! I will be pruning my fruit trees and collecting for cuttings this coming weekend. Here's to hoping al are successful!
Great looking orchard Mike.