How To Restore Front Door - Quick!
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- Опубликовано: 20 окт 2024
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Music:
Track 1:
JJD - Adventure [NCS Release]
• JJD - Adventure | Glit...
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Track 2:
Levianth & Axol - Remember (feat. The Tech Thieves) [NCS Release]
• Levianth & Axol - Reme...
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Track 3:
Jensation - Donuts [NCS Release]
• Jensation - Donuts | H...
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Ship Wrek & Zookeepers - Ark [NCS Release]
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You, sir, are a professional. I was a remodeling contractor and simply couldn't find people like you that understood the steps to do the job properly. Love your method. Noticed that several people have asked why sand between coats. Any coating the requires two coats needs to be sanded after the first coat to rough up the surface so that the second coat can better adhere to the first. Sanding also takes out minor imperfections in the first coat. Again, great job.
This guy would have to charge you $3,000 to make a cent at that pace, bet you wouldnt be so impressed with his oribital sanding in between poly coats after u got his bill lol, money makes the world go round Mr big contractor! We trying to eat out here
@@GranitestateSC I heard that ! lmao 😂
@@GranitestateSC True, although the purpose of this educational video is to show individual homeowners how they can do a professional job by following the steps you referenced. Certainly, a contractor can’t put in the time and effort into a small low budget project that an individual homeowner would themselves.
There's products out there that would do this without sanding. This is a very slow way doing it
use more gel stripper , cover it with heavy plastic to let it work longer,
repeat . to get more of stain and varnish to rise up out of wood, use laquer thinner with medium coarse steel wool. Dip scrub , dip scrub. Disolving remaining soft stain and old varnish , use blue shop towels or cotton rags to wipe excess. Bringing out all stain and varnish residue usually left below surface will guarantee even stain absorbtion , avoiding dark uneven blotchy spots. Door will look new I promise. Very little sanding is needed after this thorough stripping. I have found after 42 years as a custom painter and refinisher that few people do it the right way. The steel wool collects any remaining varnish as you scrub the laquer thinner over surface. How would you get deep dirt out of cloths if they werent rinsed properly
As you may have seen, I disapprove of sanding at all. But it is hard to get all the old finish or paint off sometimes. I have an old door from about 1930 that I have stripped and worked and worked and worked on with steel wool and stripper, but there are these faint whitish spots that I am afraid are paint left way down in there. Do you think lacquer thinner would help get that out? Because, as I said, I really do not want to sand this door. I have thought about putting some finish on to see if that clears those spots up... or maybe I'll give up and repaint, which I didn't want to do. I would prefer to just finish. And if you leave the old patina on, you don't need to stain. The wood is plenty beautiful on its own. At least I haven't ever seen any that wasn't. As long as you didn't sand it, that is.
hugot12 hey hugo, this comment is very helpful, thanks for taking the time to share that.
How do you allow the door to try, can you close it after a few hours? Leaving it cracked open overnight doesn’t seem right, right?
This is awesome knowledge.. thanks so much for sharing!
Don't use steel wool on an exterior door bit of the steel wool can embed in the wood and will rust leaving marks in the finish. Use 3M pads, brass or bronze wool.
Stephen T funny I have 42 yrs of doing this and never saw any adverse effects or residue from steel wool, but no harm to make you feel better with that suggestion, what might happen to 3m pads in lacquer thinner ( melt )This coarse of a steel wool is like thin wire not fine polishing steel wool which falls apart. Unlike alot of painters or refinishers, I round off all sharp edges on any doors or furniture to avoid any snags from any steel wool. I have many furniture refinishers that dont even know my approach to stripping.
How many years of work do you have at this ? Wonder why You didnt comment on my extensive helpful approach to stripping.
You see , I leave my stripped and re- stained finish looking like a new door, no blotchy spots anywhere when re-stained. Sometimes I spray a coat of stain controller then spray the stain over that within 5-15 min. If I want to go darker with the stain , I might spray another coat of stain controller, then spray a light coat of stain again, building the coats so nothing stains too dark without getting blotchy. Why spray instead of wiping on this controller and stain ? You will never know where the wood will take too much stain in certain spots, wiping stain pushes the pigments all around and they congregate heavier where you push them with any wiping tool.
Back in the early 80’s before most people used air- assisted airless, I was using them. With fine finish tip and a small amount of air pressure, the stain is sprayed so light that there is almost no need to wipe the stain.
Stripping and sanding. The two most miserable jobs but they have to be done, right? Great job and the result shows you took the time to do things the right way.
Beautiful home you have! The front French doors with the half moon windows on top leading to beautiful wood floors! Exquisite
Lol I wish. That's not my house. I was just doing work on that door and made a video there. Thank you for watching
@@IvanRossS Nice work! I'd hire you!
Watching your video has given me the inspiration I need to refinish a very needy front door. Thank you.
Maestro workmanship! 👏👏👏👏Bravo! Fantastic! Thank 🌻 you for teaching us this! God bless you!
Turned out nice. Another tool for doing things like molding is a brass brush. It won't gouge the wood. I like the steel wool and thinner option too, never tried it, but I have a door to do as well, so I might. Maybe a combination of the brush, and the steel wool/thinner to get more of the stain out. Nonetheless, your doors look nice, your effort was worth the results.
Excellent video, easy to follow and understand. Thank you!
pop the door pins and dont risk damaging the door with the prybar! :) other than that beautiful!!
I too was wondering why not to just pop the pins...
Precisely.
Finally a detailed video with the real steps 😃
Thanks.!
O’reilley’s sells a spray gun you can attach to any spray for convenient spraying. Strongly recommend! Fingers get tired from it and it’s very professional way to apply sprays of any kind. I love mine. $12
After 42 yrs a painting contractor and re-finisher I
discovered a better way to strip a door.
Sanding is way to overkill and removing wood isnt always the best method.
Lay the door flat , apply a gel stripper, a thick layer. Cover with heavy mil
plastic to keep evaporation down. Scoop off layers of old varnish. Apply
another layer if varnish is remaining. Now for the real cleaning up of old
stain residue if you have it, Get laquer thinner. Put about 2 inches in a 2
gallon plastic pail. Get medium coarse steel wool. Dip and scrub down surface
with ample amounts of laquer. Wipe with blue shop towels or alot of clean
cotton rags. Repeat process. This laquer keeps the stain emulsified and rising
up and out of the deep pores below the wood surface. This is critical to have
even absorbtion of new stain to avoid the usual blotchy dark spots most
refinishers leave. This door will look new.
In the cracks and molded trim areas where you usually sand the wood off too
much, this laquer with steel wool allows you to follow the compound shapes and
get all the varnish residue out completely. If you want speed and efficiency to
a quality job, this method goes fast and guarantees an even professionally stained
look
hugot12. After stripping the wood front door, do you recommend staining it before applying the spar urethane? This video here does not show the guy staining his door but it still looks beautiful with a reddish finish.
You should make a video teaching people how to finish wood doors. Your comments are better and more informative than any of the videos on here:)
I way stairing on my ugly colored door for years, not being able to (effectively enough) remove to expoxy coat. This method works with acceptable ammount of work. Youre my saviour!!! Next round is on me next time youre in Hungary!
hugot12 is it possible to do this without removing the door? I am pretty small women I don’t think I can hold my 8feet tall solid wood door.
Can you demonstrate with a video?
great job! But would it not be easier to remove the door by just pulling the pins and leaving the hinges attached to the door frame in place?
I have been holding off on my door project for a couple years not wanting to remove the hinges from the door but I need a temporary door - do you know how to find a door that will go into the part of the hinge that you leave?
Results are beautiful! I like the pry bar trick. I was just wondering if it’s ok to skip so many sand grits?
Yes. 60 strips everything off, and gives us a fiberous finish. Then the 220 will make it an extra fine to the touch finish, to fix up the look of the wood. And make it smooth to the touch.
Realistically you can ease up to the 220, but it's not necessary.
EXCELLENT and thank you. Greetings from Serbia!
"Use gloves or your fingers will fall off" 🤣 love it!
That's shit is strong !!!! I was using just regular blue gloves and their started melting on me... I didn't knew you supposed to use special Chemical gloves for that....
I'm now using "CitriStrip" it's orange with Citrus scent. much better not as powerful, not going to burn your hands and will do a great job. other shit was toxic... way to strong it was even burning wood..
Great job well done. How did you get that rich red color out of a clear urethane? . Is it the type of wood ? Would I get this same color on pine . Thank you.
Yes it's a red oak pretty expensive wood. When sun beats it up, it burns color out
Beware of taking screws out of door hinges. If there are shims behind those screws and you remove the screws, the shims may fall out of place.
Thank you so much for this warning.
Sounds like the kind of unforeseen problem that I run into every project haha.
Can't you take a door off the hinge itself and leave the half that is screwed into the frame in place and then get a temporary door that will slide into the hinge so you can have a door for a couple days?
If you know of something I would love to hear about it
Some amazingly helpful comments on this video! I just purchased the most beautiful antique door with a leaded window and am looking for the best way to clean it up, refinish, but keep its character. Why buy an antique to make it look new?!
Jenny Hawkins for design and structure with of the door
Have to do this every couple of years for wood doors when exposed directly to the sun and elements. @ 0:50 I would not do that to my floor, use a block of wood with shims under it instead. Furniture scraper maybe faster and leave a smooth surface without sanding or chemicals but each to their own. End result looks very nice.
kimchee94112 ln my case it lasted for little over 2 years. Cuz I used that door clear coat ! And it was extra shine to so it helped to reflect uv too
I liked the video just for the beautiful view in the opening
Which it was viewed on the backyard of my house
Did you actually apply a stain. Perhaps I missed that part or your left it "La natural"? Looks good I am doing a 18 light door that is almost identical, gave me some good pointers, Thanks!
No stain ! It's red wood, nature color. When u apply crear coat wood turns this color !!
@@IvanRossS cool mine are a 100 year old pine french double doors from an old country club, 9 foot doors. I will have to apply some stain, they were stored in a barn for the last 25 years. I will post a picture when I am done.
Good job, did you do this with just two layers of this product, it looks really good!
Your approach is great. Have you ever refinished a door that had a crack in one of the panels? The easiest solution is to patch and then paint it, but maybe you have an approach that would allow me to fill the crack and then refinish it?
Yes they sell patches at the store but you cannot stain them. You have to get a patch same color you're gonna be painting the door. You patch it and then you just send it down. You can get darker color if later you will be painting or staining darker Color so your patch will match
Thank you for sharing. Was this done in one day? What did you put in the front while working on the door, there is lots of mosquitoes where I live? Thank you
It was not done in few day. it took me more than whole week because it was extremely hot and humid was crazy. I have to wait almost two days for each coat to dry
Not sure if anyone asked this already but did you thin down your first coat by at least 50 percent? And you don't finish a door from the inside out? That's how I was taught.
No I did not thin anything. I did not finish the door from the inside because it was in the perfect condition.
@@IvanRossS I meant did you apply the finish starting at the inside of the door working your way out to the inside edges. and why not thin down the first coat?
Wow good job and I didn't have to watch a drawn out 3 part video series !!🙄
One question Did you apply any stain color?
Joel Mendoza_ No I didnt !!!! It read oak. When you apply clear coat it changes color like that! You can try with your wood. just simply apply little bit of water to test and you will see how wood will change it color and that's the color you will have after you will apply actually clear coat, polyurethane.
Hello! I'm thinking of doing this as part of a house reno. Doors are good quality but have been painted over multiple times over the years to the point the old layers are chipping away and we would like to save some money by sanding them and repainting them. Was this a one day job? If not, did you reattach the door and continue the next day? Thank you!
No. was a 2 weeks job... it was to damn hot those day.. so it was taking like 2 days to dry between coats... house in gated community and it was empty. So I simply had doors off for a whole 2 weeks!.. u can remove paint and send them off - its one day job ! Then paint while they hang. I don't know where u live, but if its 90f and specifically with hight humidity... forget it!!. Paint or clear coat will take days to dry also will be very thin when you apply and will leak down. So just make sure when you apply. Do it early in the morning or late at night . Use blowing fans or something . If weather was in 70th and low humidity - whole job would take me 1 day !!! More coats then more days ofcourse. But weather really messed me up
@@IvanRossS Thank you so much for replying - so quickly too! In my case, leaving the doors off is not an option, so I would probably have to go by steps - strip the paint, sand, repaint, etc and put them back up as I went. Weather where I am can be quite hot in the summer months but I think paint would dry super fast if I did this in my backyard and started early in the day each time. Should I do a primer layer on the door before the color layer? And some kind of transparent polish over the color to preserve it? (I am really new to this!)
I liked the video, however why unscrew the door hinges from the doorway. Can't you just remove the 3 pins to detach the hinges apart?
I don't remember why. Im sure i had an issue. Maybe those hinge wasn't removable. Pin wasn't removable
Glad I got to be the 1000th. "Like" Awesome video, am doing similar mahogany door as we speak! Needed this!
Thank you. Just know it not really quick. It took me whole week. Just because I was doing this in summer in North Carolina and humidity was so bad it was took almost 24 hours to dry between coats !
So how do you secure your front entry while your door is removed? Seems like this would be a multi day job.
Yes it was multi-day job because it was extremely humid outside and clear coat simply took hours to dry..... house was located on private property with a security. also it was vacant, there was nothing inside. I just covered the front entrance with a blanket so no animal could enter. Honestly you don't really beed to remove the door, I just did it because it's easier. You can strip and apply clear coat while it's still hanging, I would just recommend to remove or seals!!! so when you close the door to lock it seal will not touch clear coat and will not stick. You obviously going to have a gaps around the door, but u will be OK for a few days.
I do not have anyone to take to door down. Would I still be able to do this process to refinish my door?
Yes. Of course lol.
@@IvanRossS wonderful!!!! What is the brand name of the spray remover you used
What if the wood is Grey from being burnt by the sun? I have wooden sliding doors and in some areas the wood over the years turned grey.
U can Bing colors back with a beach. Then sand it down deeper !! Coat it with clear coat. Or u can stain it to get different color or get color more vibrant. Don't forget to get stain that is rated for outdoor. So that stain will not burn out by the sun in 3 month lol
Thank you. Will be doing this after the rainy season is over
I thought you doing the Pre-stain then the stain, make sure dry good then the vardish, But the stain all depends if the people want color, I'm doing the same job, Is good learn something everyday to 👍👍
What kind of wood is door made out of
Red Oak
You see if you dont use the laquer thinner and steel wool to pull out the varnish residue from below the surface, this is what you get, blotchy, and it doesnt look like new wood as we can get in the business when stripped right.
If he had used a stain over his sanded wood, the dark blotchy spots would be more horrible. First, now strippers are super lousy unless they are aircraft strippers. They took away the good strippers, I wont take on jobs to strip anymore. Its all about knowing why there will be uneven penetration once you re -coat after stripping. It takes multiple layers of quality stripper to lift out below surface varnish and stain residue.
This is why after stripper I use lacquer thinner, steel wool and blue shop towels to mop up rising residue as the lacquer thinner melts it.
After stripping is done, then you sand with the grain with nothing below 100 grit. trimite no fill sandpaper. Take off any corner sharp edges after sanding main flat surfaces. Use a stain controller 5-15 min before staining to keep stain absorption even for less blotchy look
This guy used a poor quality clear finish for outdoors, it must be a flagship high UV protection from a Marine supply, 3-4 times the money
If you dont want to repeat this stripping every few yrs, get the marine varnish, you cant see down into the can, the UV is so dark . This varnish cannot be found at Home Depot.
I've never done this before but this doesn't seem quick to me
great finish tho!
It's not quick at all
Looks great. Good job. But, not sure it is cost-effective, i.e., amount of time-work is not worth the average cost to refinish a door. You should be able to do it in one 6-8 hour day.
It took very long time because humidity was super high and it was taken days to dry
Question: why did you sand again after first coat? 🤔
Of course you have to send LOL !!! Sending a first coat is very important. When you applying first coat polyurethane will soak into the wood and will raise wood grains!! So you will have a lot of bumps. And applying more and more coats will not fix the issue. U have to sand it . And it's actually recommended to send after every coat!! U can used very fine sand paper. Like 300 or 500.
@@IvanRossS thanks 👋
I wish the door had needed some repair such as scratches or a gouge. That would be more typical.
Beautiful work, thank for sharing :)
Do any of you know if its better to use this product water based or oil based?
Awesome work done mate.much appreciated dude..
The was awesome. I will try it. Can you share if we have to do the second sanding.
Thank you
I want to varnish my front door but first I need to learn how to fill dog scrathes. Do you have a video for that?
BabeRuth it's fairly easy you just buy a filler that match the color of your door and make sure that filler are stainable so when you stain your door it will also take the color so you would not even notice the stretches was patched
A waste of time fixing dog scratches if you are going to keep the dog.
Why do we need to strip when we are sanding the door anyway? Can someone explain, please?
It will take you hours and hours trying to send down all this clear coat !!! Stripping a clear coat will save you lots of time and money on a sandpaper !!! Obviously if you have a really thin layer of clear coat then there is no point of applying stripper
What striper did you use? The one i bought does nothing !
Strange... I recommend to use orange stripper. it smells like oranges and orange color. you just apply with a brush it's in gel form. Leave it for about 20 minutes and everything just comes off. Lowes and home depot sell them they're not as toxic and works great. I use on my Mosin Nagant restoration video
Nice, but i have a question, if you use paint remuver or clear remuver is not going to mess with you new stain making bubbles?
eljalisco36 no it will not! you just need to remove and sand of chemical really good.
How about you put a towel underneath the pri bar so you don't leave a big mark on that nice hardwood floor?!!
Yes that will work. My mistake
Why is it necessary to sand after the first coat?
Because bare wood will rise after u wet it with polyurethane. Try to wet bare wood with just water and you will see how wood grain will slightly rise. So you need to sand them of. That's very very important to send of first layer of any coat you apply to bare wood !
Screen Share
Thank you! I am planning to re-do all of my doors. I love the way these doors came out so I needed to understand every step. 😊
Foarte bine lucrat. Cu atenție mare și multă răbdare. Cât a costat restaurarea asta?
Mulțumesc.
What makes you think I can read in your language?....
Kind of hack using that pry bar directly on the hard wood floor.
grigsolve yes u right. I did messed up aster floor a little... didn't even realized of after the job was done. I press on it to hard, but should place something underknees...
stack wood shims under the door while the door is still hinged - remove hinge screws - remove door without ever touching the floor.
Looks great. Why sand after the first coat?
Johnny Nava every time you apply clear coat to bare wood, it rise it up, getting swollen, just on surface Because first coat penetrate easily, so that's why u have to always sand the first coat !!. I send second and even third coat that I'm not showing in this video! just to bring a smoother surface as I can, Then I recommend to grab brand new brush and finish it with the last coat, do not send last coat of course. Also never ever shake can to mix clear coat inside of it, always hand mix it with spatula, stick or piece of wood !!
Well done
Realistically, how long did it take?
It took a week just because from what I remember when I was doing it was extremely hot here in North Carolina and very humid it took days to dry between the coats. . You can do all this in about two days depends on how many clear coats you will put. And it's all depends how fast your clear coat will dry before sanding and applying another coat.
@@IvanRossS i really appreciate you taking the time to respond.
How feasible is it to do this in a single day? I cant leave my house with no front door overnight whilst it dries :\ 4Hrs x 2 just for the drying times alone
Ironbuket u can do it in one day, start at 7-8am. Take down, sand it, apply one coat, wait till it dry, hang your door. Then u can apply few more coats later next day , or next week. Do one coat a day, just don't forget to sand it after first coat will dry
Thanks I didnt think about rehanging it inbetween :)
Thank's for good guide!
Perfect job and finish
I can't tell did you stain or is that the poly color ?
this is a strictly polyurethane 5 coats color change immediately just because it's Redwood. Beautiful!
@@IvanRossS ahhh. Beautiful . My late father stained a pine door and it came out to this color. But it's pine and I've been trying to replicate it. But probably just the poly that ambered over time .
Results are stunning !
I've done my door this way twice and it protects your wood for about 10-15 years. You begin to see the signs of age where the sun hits the door. We've been in the Houston area for 38 years and this door gets direct afternoon Texas heat and sun. I wonder if there is anything else that could protect the door better. I put a roll-down shade in front of the door and drop it down in the afternoons but it does not look appropriate at the front door. Any suggestions?
Helen Burchfield unfortunately there is nothing you can do, I have a same problem, 8 hours per day direct sun. Have to redo it every 3-4 years. This time I put 4 cost of clear coat, chose max gloss. So it will help to reflect more light , and lower sun damage.
Thank you. I did that but am to old to do this door every few years. I put a glass door in front of my door and put a window tint on that door. It doesn't look grand but it does the job. Thinking of putting a roll-up UV shade at the edge of the entrance to give more protection.
I wonder how tung oil would hold up. My brother has an old table, mid-century Danish, that was stripped and refinished with nothing but tung oil. It was done about 15 years ago. Nobody ever has to use a coaster on that table. It is absolutely impervious to water, alcohol, anything. It is as beautiful as it was 15 years ago.
Tung oil is one of the world's best kept secrets. It wasn't available for years because it's from China. But now we can get it. Just make sure you get pure tung oil and not some mixture. You can just rub it on, let it dry a while, buff with fine steel wool. REpeat until you get the finish you want. If it is an open-grained wood like oak, use a spit coat first with thinned out shellac to fill the pores. Then use the tung oil. No coasters, no rings, nothing. Hot plates -- nothing. Just one thing -- you have to keep air out of the container during storage. If it is plastic, you can squeeze the air out. If not, put something like glass marbles in to fill the can up. Keeping the air out keeps the tung oil from drying out.
Ellen McGuffie I did a 1855 Grunwald piano, solid mahagony, over when I was 14 yes old. I strupped, cleaned and did it with tung oil. It was beautiful and has lasted for years but I don't know what it would do in the baking sun all day. do you know anyone who has done this successfully?
Do not follow what the guy in this video does. No need to go any lower than 120 grit. Finish with 220 and then 320 between sealer and topcoat. Also never start your orbital sander off of your material, it will skop and scratch. This poster is obviously not a pro.
Well if you that pro why wouldn't you make your own" PRO video" and stop bitching like a little girl...
Oh yeah, thank you for your PRO input....
My door weighs 500lbs, is there a way to do this upright?
Yes you can do all this without removing the door, be very careful Specially when u use striper . You can remove seal around your door to, so you can close it and lock it while it still drying. that way door will not touch seals and ruin your finish. This whole project took me about a week because it very humid.. and clearcoat had a hard time to dry... 8 hours wait time turned in to 24.. and I wanted minimum 4 coats.. ! Don't forget to light send it between ever coat if u trying to get best results and make it very smooth. This project to look a place at private property community and house was vacant too, so door was out of the frame during whole week! Owner was ok with not having doors at all, house was completely empty. I remove these doors just so it will be more convenient for me to work on them in the garage with fans blowing.
Vì un excelente video aprendì mucho, he leìdo las críticas y me parecen más estúpidas que absurdas.
Me puedes decir cuanto tiempo durö este hermoso proyecto?
Lol. English please. Hehe
Good job man 👏
So pretty!!
Maria Muniz Thank you hun !
Great video!
What was your background set list?
Paul Reed I'm sorry what are you talking about. What is the background list
What are the song names you used in your video?
Paul Reed oh my bad I will make a list when I get home and I will reply
Track 1:
JJD - Adventure [NCS Release]
ruclips.net/video/f2xGxd9xPYA/видео.html
soundcloud.com/jjdofficial
Track 2:
Levianth & Axol - Remember (feat. The Tech Thieves) [NCS Release]
ruclips.net/video/2DGxm1csQQM/видео.html
soundcloud.com/levianth
Track 3:
Jensation - Donuts [NCS Release]
ruclips.net/video/jxrorclF18Y/видео.html
soundcloud.com/dj-jensation
Track 4:
Ship Wrek & Zookeepers - Ark [NCS Release]
ruclips.net/video/8xlDwukxjnA/видео.html
soundcloud.com/zookeepersdk
Spar urethane is only good for 2years. After 2yrs must apply spar varnish every 2 yrs. Read it on the can. Now I ask is it worth it?
Bette Gregory it's been over 2 years and it's perfect
No, this man is not a Professional, not even close! He used too course of a sandpaper to get to raw wood. After stripping to raw wood you start with 80 grit/120 Grit /180 grit or 220 grit. That door surface most likely had a veneer sheet. That wood should be natural wood color after sanding, not red. Do not apply an unthinned out coat of varnish if you want a uniform look and do not use short continuous strokes. The finish will not be uniform. Time 8:39. Look at raised grain from wet varnish. It is rough. It feathers the wood fibers. You start sealing the panels first, go to rails and then to stiles. Theis material does not cure sufficiently in 4 hours for sanding. Notice the sanding scars at 9:34. This is a DIY job. That door should have had a minimum of 3 thinned out coats. By the way, this is what I do for a living. I have not restored 0ver 4,000 doors since 1990.
Who said I'm a professional.... smh.. if you know better why u even watching this video... 80 then 220 is fine. I'm not refinishing $15000 Royale in this video I'm only showing how I apply the one coat.... on 8.39. I had total 4 coats and I send it after each coat. 220.
Why do you sand the door after you put the first coat on
purityrefinedbyfire Just to smooth it out, for better finish. , Gotta do it every coat if u want perfect finish. On last coat u don't.
Screen Share Thanks!!!
purityrefinedbyfire just so you know every time you apply clear coat on freshly sanded wood. You making that wood raise. Micro wood particle will swollen by absorbing clearcoat liquid and will slightly raise. So that's why you always want to sand first coat. Make sure you use high grade sandpaper. 300-500. I'm using 260 is fine too
U made a couple mistakes:
1) instead of removing the screws to the hinge just pop the hinge pins out w/ a hammer and a old nail. If u remove the screws and put it back, it won't hold as strong.
2) it's not called a grinder it's called a sander.
3) put a towel underneath the pry bar
4) instead of using metal putty knife, use plastic. Metal will gouge into wood.
Selwyn Abraham if u know all that why are u watching my vidoes? Make your own.
Selwyn Abraham and one some hinges u can't remove pins just so u know..
Actually you are running your mouth -- and you are acting like an a-hole. All these critiques from guys afraid to post their own DIY projects.
1. it's not a good idea to pull the pins out because then you have to make sure it's level when you reset them and sometimes that's hard if you're by yourself.
2. Sanders and people have different terms and words for tools I've heard Sanders called Grinders plenty of time working for different carpenters and Painters.
3. you are correct the towel or better yet a block of wood, 2x4 would work better. because a towel is soft and may still get pushed into the wood underneath. however a block of wood for leverage and also it would be okay if the wood block got pushed in on.
4. you are correct a metal putty knife made out into the wood. But I've seen 30-40 year long professionals who have been doing it for years have a steady hand and not stabbing to the wood. plastic is good but metal works as well, stays stronger and more uniform longer.
I've only been in the trade for 10 years so I'm not claiming to know everything and I'm always willing to learn more. but your four rules are all opinions and are not a sure method to work. especially the first one is definitely not a good idea, since it may be hard to reset the pins in the hinges and have the door exactly in the same position. if you just remove the hinges off the door, you won't have to worry about resetting the door.
All in all it's personal preference and there is no set rules.
@Damon Hall I don't think you're reading my comment correctly.
Can one stain first then put the crystal,?
Real Zarbl what?
“In Russia door restore you”
Could I use denatured alcohol as my stripper?
Denatured will only remove latex finishes, so if the poly is water-based then denatured will take it off. But it's very watery and won't adhere well to the surface or penetrate well through the finish. It would be better to use a gel stripper as it will give you a heavy coat that will stick to the surface. A good stripper will also take off any poly, oil or latex, as well as any stain that might be on the surface of the wood, thereby exposing the wood as much as possible before sanding. Denatured alcohol is what you'd want to use to clean up any spatters or spills of an alcohol-based shellac like BIN. It's also a good way to test whether an existing finish is an oil or latex if you're not sure. Dab a cloth in some denatured and rub an inconspicuous spot. If the paint comes off, it's latex.
Inspirational - Total Time?
Nice but hardly quick looks like a week's work
Was a week project just because how hot and humid it was... clear coat wouldn't dry. But it can be done in a day. All depends on how many coats you want and how long you wait for them to dry... PS. House was vacant and it was on private property with 24/7 security. House was sitting for a week with no doors. All this work can be done with out door removal. It was just easier this way and to make a video.
@@IvanRossS what about if one of the window panels is slightly loose? But the surround putty is fine
i wish its satin look color or at most semi gloss
Glossy finish like this will help to reflect UV light from the sun ! Of course you can get polyurethane in a semi-gloss finish if you do not like Royals finish on your door :) and you can not stain this wood, it's red oak.. if you stain this wood it becomes very dark, almost black...
Like the method tho !
Why do you sand it at all? You take all the patina off that way. That's what makes an old door beautiful. Go over it with more stripper and fine steel wool. Clean it off really well with mineral spirits and more steel wool, and then if you need a spit coat use shellac, and then use something fabulous like tung oil, which looks so much better than polyurethane and is more resistant. I see the fellow below says use laquer thinner. I think I'll try that on my next strip/refinish. But please don't sand it!
Hi Ellen! You seem to be very knowledgeable when it comes to finishing. I am totally new to this, with very little experience. I just bought a new door from the hardware store and the wood is unfinished. I believe it is pine. I want to stain the door to get a nice deep wood color. I really dont know where to begin and know that staining can be difficult. Do you have any advice for me? After I stain it, what should I seal it with? It's an interior door. Any help much appreciated! Cheers :)
You didn't show the brand name of the stripper in the video nor in the description box. Less music, more advice please.
Big deal... there's a lot of companies out there who makes spray stripper. If you need step by step tutorial that covers every single aspect and every single move... and you cannot figure out yourself...you should not be doing this from the beginning ! Thank you
@@IvanRossS Viewers don't come here to massage your ego, they come here to learn from you. Some hope.
"and you cannot figure out yourself"
Isn't the whole point of making an instruction video to show viewers how it's done, so they don't have to figure it out for themselves? You call yourself Screen Share but that's the one thing you didn't do: share. Seriously, what exactly is wrong with telling us the brand name? Doubtless your viewers would like to follow your instructions exactly, but as you've omitted key information they cannot. What's the point of an instruction video that omits instructions?
I need to do this and would like to do it right that's why I'm asking
purityrefinedbyfire lol, what exactly u asking. ?..
Screen Share Sorry the first part of my question didnt show. I want to know why you sanded it after you put on the clear coat?
SANDPAPER and elbow grease NOT chemicals.
why didn't you sand it from the beginning with out stripper?
Under Earth Man lol. It done need to be sand before stripper, for what purpose?? If u sand with out my stripper at all, it's gonna take u hours to get job done
Nice, great job 👌
By the way my bedroom doors and windows are 150 year old i need to strip them but the problem is that the two windows are 3 meters high, any suggestions?
Ahmed Sa'eed yea get a new house foo
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Oven cleaner is what it is
Nope.... oven cleaner will not remove enamel like this stripper!! ... smh. This shit is very powerful, it burns through your skin and you even have to use a proper gloves because if you just use painter gloves it will burn right through them as well.... check your facts before posting. And misleading people!!!!
@@IvanRossS have you tried oven cleaner sir?
start with belt sander first
Bob Abooey I do not have belt sander otherwise I would using
Music is annoying
why the inane music...dont need it.
Richard Young music for entertainment and not to make video boring ! maybe some spots it's a little too loud just turn your volume down. and I'm not putting heavy metal or country music on the background...
The vid is excellent info and appreciate you posting this to inform.This was just a personal view of how I immediately felt about the music.This vid is so informative that it distracted me from the narrative...just my view.It was in no way to offend...Sometimes having just the narrative on its own has more impact.
Im using woodprix instructions to make it and I do it already :)
Carmelina Rosinski fuck you with your woodprix
@@IvanRossS Nice respectful response, as are some of your others. Sarcasm intended. Certainly enough to turn me off from using your directions.
Thats one ugly effing door.
You can learn more about it on Woodprix website I think.
so i made it too . just by using Woodprix woodworking plans :)