DIY How to Set a Fence Post
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- Опубликовано: 21 июл 2016
- Here's how to set a fence post. Cheers!
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The boy is yawning while working
What a nice and energetic day
Nate seems like a great kid. I work with my son everyday, I am teaching him to be an electrician. We get a little mad at each other occasionally but we have actually gotten closer. I can't imagine working without him.
Hi MIke, I totally get what you are saying. Right now I am working with my son Matt. Both of my Sons would butt heads a little but now we have a stringer bond than I even knew was possible. Cheers and keep up the great work Dad!
He must share the ganja with you.
@@asifchatur7471 ha there you go, a couple of high electricians. That's all the customer needs!
The kids not interested. He stays up all night playing videogames and eating pizza getting dirty sleep. Then extremely bored at his job during the day. I was the sameway lol. I worked in construction with my dad upto 20 years ago, then I changed my profession. When I was in construction I hated every second of it. But it's what my dad did and I didn't have to work at McDonald's. And now when it's time to do that honey do list, I can do it myself.
Best tutorial on setting posts. I like how you explain it so that newbies like me can understand
wow this kid is soooo excited about this post business
The lad is snacking on snot!!
Guys! Thanks for that small bit of information you gave at 2.26 in to this video! There are many people that "demonstrate this technique" but FAIL to explain the technical reasons for it. Kudos!
Cheers Jason!
Thanks for the video. It was so easy to follow the ideas. Living in a rural area, best way to wake up kids - cattle prod 🤣
I loved this video, hilarious at times
when i built our shed i used a plan from *WoodBlueprints. Com* and it had all the blueprints, supplies, materials, and list well laid out for me.
This is a great video, both for the information and the interaction between you and your son. Watched it with my 15 year old who was building a fence for his Boy Scout Eagle Project. It was very helpful. My son, of course, would not read the instructions either. Haha. He used Sakrete fast setting cement and they actually say to fill the hole 1/3 with water and then put in the cement. That worked really well, but he only had to go 24 inches deep for a 6 foot total post since we are in the south and frost isn't an issue. I cannot believe anyone would criticize you or your son. They must not have kids or not have a good relationship like you have with your son. I am so tired of people and their blasting of this generation. Times change and you either change with it or end up bitter.
Glad you liked it. I love working with my kids and helping them with the getting older process. Nothing like working with your hands to teach young people to appreciate doing a job right the first time.
I like the three sided level that I can nail into the wood. This free up both hands.
Try an elastic band next time so much easier. But yeah get what your saying there so much more conventional for this kind off job rather than your regular level.
You guys are awesome very helpful. Thanks for sharing and I'm now subscribed!
right on Phil and welcome to the DIY CREW
Really informative video will certainly be using tips I've learned thanks
Glad to help Ryan.
I like this guy. He keeps it simple.
Hi Jim,. I sure try to anyway. Cheers!
Any experience with Sika post fix and how it performs when the ground freezes? I’m guessing you don’t recommend using metal spike but what do you think of them?
Good video, nate makes its really funny
Yup, that boy is fun to be around!
Informative video. Thanks
Thank you Michael!
Awesome video thanks for sharing
Thanks for commenting Derek, We really appreciate this.
Great video. I like putting a couple of nails at the bottom so the concrete has a better hold on the post.
Jeez. You guys are a hoot.
DIY Video's are all so much better to watch when you have a punk and a stooge working together. Good work you comedic duo!
this guy is so nice...wish i could have Nate's job.
That's his son. The relation may explain the extra patience. Although, Jeff does seem like a good natured man. I saw his other videos. Informative and very entertaining.
Thumbs up and subscribed!
My understanding is you should NOT push dirt up over the concrete and pack it next to the wood pole because it will encourage rot. I believe the concrete should be brought up to ground level and even pyramid shaped / sloped away from the pole to discourage water sitting next to your wood. Otherwise thank you for showing the method of using string and level to correctly position the pole.
Question I'm building a pergola do you recommend digging 4 feet down placing 12 ft post in cement or anchoring 8ft post ontop of cement? In the gta so I'm dealing with frost and clay
What did you finally do?
On top helps with wood rot . But using rock below grade helps . Depending on how dry a climate you live in .
good teacher
Can i ask if which one is better to lessen the wood rot between putting just a cement, a mortar, or a concrete?
Here's a question. I live in the Pacific Northwest. I have posts that keep rotting at the base. Is there any recommendations you would use to help with that?
This guy is good.jst like i thought you do not need bracing (bracing can actually bugger things up)for quick set concrete as long as you hold secure for a small period of time.
Thanks.
Your videos have always been a great resource for us DIY'ers. One question as it relates to this particular lesson, would you ever want to attach a fence post to the side of your house? i have a fence runs to a post where a gate will be attached to. the fence crosses over a sidewake that leads to the back of the house and thus i had to install a post using a base hardware to secure the pole as opposed to digging into it and pouring new concrete.
Whether you're done this before or it's your first attempt! - RyanShedPlans will help you decide which shed project is best suited for you, how to execute it and bring professional results every time. Visit => *WoodBlueprints. Com*
Put 1-2" gravel on top of the concrete, not, not soil which will rot off the post at the point it enters the concrete. Problem two, clay packed over the concrete does not "hold the post" when frost heaves, that is impossible, frost heaves from below objects and from the sides, so the concrete is the anchor as it below the frost line and grabs the soil on sides. Gravel up higher would allow the soil that is heaving, to move independently of the post because there would not be friction.
Some good ideas for getting plumb and how to set the crete without stabilizing, thanks!
Haha, this kid is so stoned
he sure is, hope by now he is awake.
Reminds me of when my dad was always a dick to me when I was helping him. Good times :)
@@GT-1902 🤣
Would you recommend setting posts in a sonotube in a four season climate? Or just concrete directly in the dirt hole
I prefer the dirt hole. using the sonotube means you need to pack the ground around it as well.
The fence I want to run is 160 ft long. I don't think you can pull a string line because of the sag? Any tips on that? Also are you just going with the ground or how you keeping the top of post all the same heights?
Hey Jeff, I'm just wondering why you only need to use one bag instead of two. Can you explain that a bit more? Thanks!
8:28
Jeff I am in Oklahoma and am wanting to build a fence like this. I have mostly a sandy soil. How do you suggest that I install the 4x4 post and to what depth would you suggest?
1 foot down for every 2 feet up. Cheers to Oklahoma!
Hi, thanks for this awesome video! Can you use the same type of concrete (or concrete mix) to secure (wooden) "Fence Post" as well as repairing medium sized concrete sidewalk cracks? Here is a photo for the concrete sidewalk that we need to repair. @t. Thanks!
Thanks for your tip on finishing the hole with clay. The frost line can go down 7 feet here some years so there is no point trying to dig a fence post past it.
Now that is a frost line. Like I said everything outside in Canada is a temporary structure. Enjoy the pre season games this week. It will be nice to see the Oilers dynasty return to glory!
Where's that?
Have you ever tried the sika fence post mix instead of concrete? Curious what your experience/thoughts are on it, it seems like an expensive but viable alternative to concrete.
you said it expensive and does the same thing.
Excellent - first time for me setting fence posts. My question, I have poured some in hole, first then set post. This way, wood is not touching soil, but encased. This this matter?
not really, the concrete will still transfer moisture to the wood and eventually it will rot. But not till long after your gone.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY dip the first 3 feet of each post in tar. no rot....EVER!
interesting points ,if anyone else trying to find out backyard storage sheds plans try *WoodBlueprints. Com* Ive heard some decent things about it and my colleague got cool success with it.
Jeff, have you used Sika, secure set or any other type of foam in stead of concrete?
will be doing that someday soon.Cheers!
LOL ALL Game at Night, No Game during the Day. It’s the NEW Breed of Workforce. Still enjoyed the entertainment. Great Vid and keep Nate in the loop.
LOL He was adjusting to the climate of being employed. Cheers!
Thank you for the informative video. I have a couple of questions: Wouldn't packing clay on top of the cement cause moisture in the soil to pool around the post at the level of the cement and rot the wood faster? And what happens when you hit big rocks? I have tons of big rocks in my clay NS soil and want to put in two trellis posts.
Hi Anne, that is why no matter what you do a fence in my climate is a temporary structure. There is no perfect way to build one without spending an absolute fortune
I'm actually wanting to build a T-bar trellis for a kiwi berry vine that will last decades. I have no idea how to replace posts when they rot without damaging/destroying the vine. Any ideas?
Put in a steel post and clad it with wood so it looks nice. When the wood eventually rots just take the bad piece off the steel post. You can then keep your wood slightly above grade. Just a thought.
If water drains, add gravel. If water doesn't drain, don't add gravel.
This! Is the advice I've been looking for. Funnily enough I have gravel extending away from where I'm setting the fence post, but the soil is heavy clay. So until I hit that level, I wasn't sure.
There is nothing better then tbe old school way to mix all the concrete in a wheel barrow this way you know it all has been mixed right & there will be no dry patches in the concrete.
It is a whole lot more work. I would not want to be the guy mixing 60 bags by hand. The mixer worked awesome.
Home RenoVision DIY some times that would be a daily occurrence for me at my last fence company I worked for....
100 percent agree. Throwing it in dry is only done by contractors who don't give a shit
I use a tarp, mix one bag at time, pulling the corners toward the center, tilt it right into the hole, it hoses off so nice, and I can usually get several fence posts (for a small backyard job) and cleanup is so fast and easy. with two people and a heavy duty one, in a pinch you can set a lot of posts FAST. ♥️
Here we are doing the mixing by adding cement , nice sand , water , 1/2 rock crushed pieces .. on an iron sheet .. 😊😁
How long after the fence post is set can you start building your fence? Do you have to wait a day or 2 or if you use fast set can you start within an hour or so?
depends on the product. read the instructions !
Hi Jeff, did you find these 4x4 PT posts twisted at all since this install? 6x6 is a more reliable post size for PT in my experience.
6x6 today’s price of $40 each I don’t so 🤔
What about running a string line top and bottom AFTER you set the end posts level.
sure. Cheers!
How would I know about the soil type regarding drainage issue?
thanks
U either have clay or sand. Clay clumps then you grab a handful. Almost like pottery clay. Soil might be red. Sand will drain a little better than clay. Water has a harder time percolating thru clay.
Some of these comments are just brutal, it's a helpful video with helpful commentary.
Seems like everyone wants to dump on young people today. Funny how a generation that raises kids blames them for the way they grow up. Cheers!
It is possible to interpret brutal comments as experience from other people who have seen more...
How many fencw posts have I set in my life?
Only a few, spread out over 30+ years so I know only a little.
People who install fences for a living for 10+ years, experience counts for everything!!
I believe that I heard that 2 bags of cement were to be used per posthole, but I do not recall seeing two put into the hole.
Depends on what size bags and how deep you set the posts.
In the video, he explains the reason of only using one.
Good video wear a mask next time silica dust is no joke. You going to end up calling those late night lawyers if not.
Potters asthma!! Not good!
Love your videos. Keep up the good work. There is always going to be criticism when you put things online. A dust mask to open a bag of concrete? lol at some of those comments
Rent Wewoka, you do need the proper mask (N95) to deal with the degree of toxicity of cement dust. "Cement Dust. Hazard: Exposure to cement dust can irritate eyes, nose, throat and the upper respiratory system. Skin contact may result in moderate irritation to thickening/cracking of skin to severe skin damage from chemical burns. Silica exposure can lead to lung injuries including silicosis and lung cancer." Your uneducated comment is the only thing that can make some people laugh.
What would happen if you had the concrete come above the soil, and used a big foot at the bottom?
doesnt the soil rot the post at ground level?
That is correct. Putting any kind of soil around the post will rot and shorten the life of the post. You should have your concrete level with soil or better to have a reveal so water can run off and not pool. He did mention the ground freezes in that area so, maybe covering the concrete is necessary to prevent the post from pushing or popping out in winter. Nevertheless, covering the post with soil increases rot factor.
what a dozy lad who would give him a job ?
How far apart is each post? I am considering a similar build ( horizontal fence ) and want to go 10ft between posts and using 5/4 decking pressure treated boards to span the posts. Does this seem to long of a span. Thanks
Hi Aaron, we used 8ft and also used a 2x4 at 4" to provide some help against warping. so post 4' support 4' post and so on. Good luck.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY What do you mean "used a 2x4 at 4" to provide some help against warping""?
10ft is too long without support. Even at 6ft the posts will sag after a while with no support.
Why type of wood posts are those and is there any issue of the wood rotting eventually since it’s buried? I live in Ontario as well.
the secret is to buy PT lumber rated for ground contact. there are 2 varieties. be careful
Home RenoVision DIY thanks!
Also, what is the Ontario code for fences? You mentioned you were bending the rules a bit. Could you explain that?
can u do the same thing for a deck footing? i live in ont also.Thanks
yes but you have to go 4 ft down if you attach the deck to your house.
That's great now what if its not attached to the house. Thanks
Wow this is a super cool technique
Thanks John!
Is your helper Dustin from the comics? Even looks like him!
Great video. Must be a lot of fun working with your son. Ignore the idiots who think your son is lazy or whatever. While your son was helping you, their kids were probably playing candy crush on their phones.
Hi Rudi, I love working with my kids, My son lives on his own now going to university and working to pay his own way. Think he may have learned a few things that summer. Cheers!
I was told not to mix the cement like that - to thoroughly mix the water and the concrete first then fill the hole and shape the concrete downward and even at that looks like the wood is going to eventually rot anyway.
This is exactly how my fence was done 10 years ago, every post completely rotted out. and I live in a cold climate the concrete needs to go a little bit over-the-top soil and slope it down. Definitely takes two bags of concrete.
The secret is to use PT lumber that is rated for ground contact. there is plenty of it sold that is not. Cheers!
There are different pressure treatments done for lumber. Perhaps not 'ground contact' pressure treated posts used? Perhaps your area has high clay content so dug holes actually become water catchers and wood stays wet for longer. Im trying another experimental method: metal posts in concrete, posts wrapped with 4 pcs of decking (above ground) to give appearance of wood post. I let you know in 10 years how its going.
@@davidleeson7236 you got me there, lots of clay.
Help me understand why you did all of that leveling before you poured the concrete? You leveled it and proceeded to wiggle it around, then held it with the same unsteady hand as you poured in the Quickcrete. Then wiggled it some more to make it level. Could have saved all that time by plopping it in, making sure it wasn’t significantly off kilter, then done the leveling once the QuickCrete was holding it for you.
your description sounds a lot like how i did it!
Nice gloves
I was too busy counting the kid yawn, ok so now let me watch how the post is set.🤣😂
The spirit level is used to make sure the fence posts are plumb, not level. Plumb is 90° to level.
Doesn’t cement wick soil water and eventually rot the wood?
Yeah I installed my fence the same way they did it and the posts rotted out
When plumbing a pole, or post you only plumb the top to the bottom, anything between that you have to ignore.
My question is why do people not put butt plates on every post. One to prevent the post from moving north and south and the other butt plate just under the first plate. Guaranteed to keep the post plumb for many years
So how many bags per post ?
"It is toxic now get away from the dust". He is so nice to that poor kid.
I'm glad that he was tough with the young man, all these millennials need to toughen up. Good job! On the other hand, don't be so mean to the poor boy he is just learning.
Post will rot quickly, post hole is also excessively deep. Concrete should be tapered at ground level to stop water pooling at post base. 1/4 of the overall length of the post should be underground.
Not where ground freezes as it will lift the post. Putting soil on top stops it lifting.
Its PLUMB not level
I had a contractor do what you pretty much did. They replaced old rotted post with your method.
My question is why not go concrete to the top? Ground Level? Im afraid that in 5-10 years the wood under the ground will rot faster? Im using PT wood. Iam I a worry wart?
He explained that in the video. The ground freezes there. When water freezes it expands. So when the water laden soil freezes and expands, it can try to push the post upward out of the ground. Putting a layer of soil on top of the concrete creates a "lid" as he says, and keeps the post from lifting when the ground freezes. Because the lid is frozen too. If you dont get ground freezing where you live, then put the concrete all the way to the top.
@@velocityacoustics It is a no win situation. The post will rot faster if it touches the wet soil all the year round. I will put concrete all the way up even if it means lifting the post. Better than a rotten post.
By the way, Nate must've had one a helluva night before filming! He's in slow motion, yawing frequently, and has his "i'm too cool for school" shades on. LOL
19 years old, go figure!
My niggah...
@A OK
I think that s actually his own son
I give those fence posts about 3/4 years before they rot at ground level. u did correct not using gravel but you should have taken the concrete to ground level. now your post is soaking up water where it's covered with dirt. especially with you having clay it's going to suck up water with that wet s soil.
pt lumber is not that weak, however no matter what you do in this climate it will not last more than 20 years,
In Canada ?!? Not much of an option unless you want to play wack-a-mole with your posts. I'd rather replace a post occasionally then live with a unsightly sagging fence line.
Here in New Zealand we use H4 treated timber in the ground, doesn't matter if it gets wet (which it does) or not, it lasts a lifetime...
nope. i put mine in same exact way (with GROUND CONTACT 4x4) 15 years later solid as a rock.
Jeff: "you sure you don't just want a chain link fence?"
Great video content! Apologies for butting in, I would appreciate your opinion. Have you thought about - *WoodBlueprints. Com* It is an awesome exclusive guide for building better sheds and woodworking without the normal expense. Ive heard some extraordinary things about it and my mate at very last got astronomical success with it.?
promise Nate PS5 after this and he'll be enthusiastic as Belgian Malinois
lol this kid is such a troll I love it. Good video, very informative.
Thanks for watching.
Have you ever tried Secure Set?
I don’t understand why the soil wouldn’t drain if there were pebbles. Wouldn’t a lever of rocks keep the post ABOVE the ‘pool’ of water? I live in a clay soil area and we HAVE to use gravel for stability and drainage.
Water always takes the path of least resistance. In an area with a lot of clay the gravel would just act as a very porous stratum that any nearby moisture would naturally seek. In a more rocky or coarse dirt soil, the gravel would just be wasted work.
I think you are right with the post contracting and shrinking the cement acts like a cup holding water and the wood dry rots
Good job , but I have comment , dig little bit deeper more as 36 " , the pure concrete first in to hole at button about 4 " high , then set the post in , centered roughly in the hole , then pure rest of the concrete in so that some few inches were left above ground level , I prefer pre mixed concrete with water before being purred in to hole but you method is fine to add after for that type of concrete mix , leveling the post during process of adding concrete around the post , after is done that top concrete refinish smooth with slight slope , in case of the fence posts , 1 " above finish soil level .
The wooden post will root with the time no matter what but it would take longer if protected better , also preparation of posts could be done with oil at that base of the post and so much more ...
Cheers :)
Don't worry about breathing it in. Just go ahead and pour it and hope it doesn't hurt ya.
I hate to sound so ignorant but how can u find out what type of soil u have? (Hold Water or drain water?)
dig a 1 ft hole. sandy drains and clay holds the water. Cheers!
Spray water on cement bags right beforeOpening them and dispensing them very little to no dust best way
Kudos for the video content! Sorry for butting in, I would appreciate your initial thoughts. Have you tried - *WoodBlueprints. Com* It is a great one of a kind guide for building better sheds and woodworking without the normal expense. Ive heard some decent things about it and my cousin finally got astronomical success with it.?
Maybe the kid can teach him you plumb post, not level. Plumb equals straight up, level equals perfectly horizontal. Good job at setting the post and explaining.
lol, thanks Jack. Where I am from we say level for everything. Kind of a little slang.
Besides, you didn't need to "plumb" the post as there was already a bit of water in the hole and your assistant added more. Jack, just so you know I'm being sarcastic with my play on words. ;) ;)
lmao "does it say....?" Nate, "Yea" you, "Nope" lesson one... follow instructions, you will be tested hahaha
IMPORTANT LIFE LESSONS CAN BE TAUGHT WITH HUMOR. BETTER THAN LEARNING THE HARD WAY!
Nate now you have twenty more posts to complete - wtf lol
🤣🤣🤣
Your son!! I wish I'm with my girlfriend LOL
Ok, this question has come up a lot so I'll be the sacrificial lamb. How do you know your first and last posts (and consequently all other posts) are aligned? So all you see is a straight line when you look down the fence. Other than using a lazer level.
you can use a string line once you have you corner and ends dug in.
I may not be explaining myself properly. The string will make sure the middle panels are in line with the end posts but how do you ensure the end posts are on the same latitude/longitude.. For example, both end posts are the same distance from a structure..
you can use a string to mark the distance from the structure and use marking paint to x marks the spot for the post. On large scale fencing square is a relative idea. as long as your lines are straight square is secondary in most situations
Thank you!
Also, most of the time you are going to be building your fence a couple inches off of your lot lines which are almost never square.
Damn let the kid take a nap
This can’t be your kid. We look up to you for guidance This kid is a big let down to the trades. Hehehe
Why do all dads have the same pair of white tennis shoes?
we are all cheap!
I prefer cowboy boots
i would quit my first day 🤣
many do. Cheers!
He makes it sound complicated and difficult.
Stick log in hole. Line up a series of logs. Use tight string to line them all up. Use level to make sure they are straight up and down. Read concrete instructions and stick in hole, add water. Let dry.
Fence posts complete.
Hahahaha the kid doesnt really care hahahaha...makes the Vid funny
Do these rules apply to Edmonton as well? We have clay-loam soil and a 6' frost line.
nope best to use a much deeper hole.
Thanks. They usually do 3 to 4 feet here in Edmonton, and it doesn't heave due to the soil type. I was just wondering about the concrete method you use.
That kid needs a nap or 6 Red Bull’s!
probably both. Cheers!