Beginners guide to refinishing part 1
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
- Start of a series on recreating a classic 30s-50s lacquer TV or radio cabinet finish. I will be presenting products and techniques that are easy to get and use to create the same type of finish used in the past.
Much of what I know comes from those that have passed it one. A special thanks to the Antique Radio Forum Cabinet Restoration board: antiqueradios....
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Wow! I’ve seen a lot of veneer patches on YT, and this one is by far the best! I’ve not see that tapered edge technique before, but will definitely be using it. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful
Excellent!
Very Interesting video. You did an excellent job on the wood veneer patch.
I am glad you decided to do this, I am loving it so far!
Great patch repair Bob, I liked the oversize, then sanding it down level. I've never done that, but will definitely do that on my next patch attempt.
Bob that was a very education video I had no idea lots of new info to learn. What can I say to thank you for all your kindness? You're really very kind and helpful at least to me. I learn so much from you I only wish I knew as much. But may God bless you . thanks Mike
Really nice patch; thanks for showing this. Really agree with you on using the original materials and methods on the finishes. I used to watch Roy Underhill every week back in the '80s and early '90s. Regarding the question you had about sand paper, I recall one episode when he was turning a leg on his spring-pole lathe and used horsetail reed for sanding the turning as it naturally contains silica. Loved the old ways where knowledge of the grain and the way of the wood was the sign of a craftsman. Thanks again.
Amazing patch there bob, you can hardly see the edges before you use grain filler and lacquer so i find it very easy to believe it will be totally invisible after you have re-finished, thanks for this guide as i have a Ferranti T1002( A British 1950's 17" table top) that will be my first TV restoration, i bought it last year for £10 and it has some small missing veneer patches on the front face and a top and sides where the lacquer has almost completely flaked off, i have been wondering where to start on the cabinet refinishing and now i have a very good idea how to go about it, Thanks again! Cant wait for part 2!
The antique furniture restoration shop I use sells rectangular pieces of metal especially for scraping. It doesn't have an edge from factory. You use what looks like a file with a flat surface to add a little bit of a burr to it. (Burringtool?) Then you scrape, bending the blade a little in the middle so the corners cannot dig into the wood.
It's much easier to hold than the small knife, but more difficult to use properly I think, but either can be very effective. And it does give a very flat surface. They claim it's far superior to sandpaper.
I'm not much of a refinisher. Somehow I can never get the right products or they don't work as expected. Your videos on the subject are interesting, but I would have to swim across an ocean to get them. Most of the stuff you mention only exists in America, toner lacquer is very hard to find over here, even before everything got water based. Especially in spray cans. No idea why.
I saw in an old home improvement magazine cutting a patch out of veneer onto the piece being repaired. The cut was made simultaneously through the original finish. Some of the old veneer had to be removed so that the new one would fit in there.
I've seen that too but then the seam is more obvious. The blending technique takes more effort but is less visible.
Good info, I'm definitely saving this to rewatch later if I end up refinishing my Emerson. I presume that one of the upcoming sections is going to talk about how to work when there's lettering and other graphics, obviously you'd lose everything if you strip to bare wood.
No, sorry I'm not going to discuss that. I do not have any suggestions for retaining graphs. The color layer is under the decals. I suggest you get reproduction decals like I did for the Crosley I recently refinished.
@@bandersentv So is the usual layering wood, grain filler, toner lacquer, decals, and then maybe clear lacquer? It's probably best to leave that part alone then.
@@eDoc2020 yes always bury the decals under clear to protect them
Please add indexing/ chapters to your videos.....thx
I hope you know what I am referring to when I ask what causes the almost 3d effect on some old finishes of some vintage pieces I have. For instance you stand at one angle and you can see darker/lighter striping on the surface in certain places then you stand at another angle and the pattern changes. It really is a attractive effect. If you strip this away and use your techniques will that be reproduced?
I think what you’re talking about is called “chatoyance”. It’s actually in the wood itself, and comes from the way the wood catches the light when viewed from different angles. It’s also the thing that’s hardest to match…
Yes. Watch my videos on restoring an Admiral 19A15 for a good example. It has a beautiful maple cabinet that really catches the light at different angles.