Bouta get a 97 7.3, your info makes me feel confident with getting the basics down about the truck, never owned a diesel so excited, damn trucks getting expensive tho
If you don't mind me saying this to you young man. I was thoroughly impressed with this video. I'm an old coot, who has been enjoying my 7.3 for the last 6 years. Learning about it has been a passion for me, and I've been methodically making good improvements on it as I go. Mind you, I'm not interested in making a ridicules racing machine, as some have actually done, merely doing a series of little things that are improving performance, without compromising longevity in any major way. I loved your mature, easy to understand information. It was straightforward, interesting and practical without any zaney, goofy interaction. I will be following your videos with great interest hoping to clean any and all ideas that you're kind enough to share. Thanks a bunch !
Just picked up a 1995 F250 with a 7.3, ZF5 manual tranny extended cab Long box. Paid 250$ Canadian for it... Kid said the glow plugs were going and the injectors were on their way out. It leaked diesel from the valley, the water pump was shot and the starter was fried. Bought a lift pump for 100$, starter for 150$ and a water pump for 200$, it no longer leaks diesel, coolant and it starts up every turn of the key. I replaced and tightened up the battery fittings and charged them up. Idles perfect at 600, doesn't miss a beat. The tranny doesn't care for 2nd gear, otherwise she shifts great. It had a tool box in it, but I sold it for 200$. All in, including battery fittings and an oil change, I'm roughly 600$ Canadian into 7.3 PSD that has little blowby, doesn't leak and everything works. 376K or 233,000 Miles on the engine.
I have a 1993 7.3 idi. EVERYTHING is shot. Springs,ac,metal in the oill,2nd body with holes in the floor,seat is to the frame but it is still hauling hand picked wood for my small carpentry business. Lucky enough to purchase 2.5yrs ago a 2000 7.3 powerstroke which was forage kept. using at work more than I wish. Honestly the cab is getting beat. Better motor I understand but the Idi never lacked when pulling someone out. Yes, both manuals but I still prefer my old friend the 1993 idi. I don't think my current Labrador retriever has a preference. I try to explain the vinal seat and floor vs carpet and cloth when your sweaty, sandy or wet from the ocean. There is more room under the old frame even though the front shocks are compressed. I can't roll over when working under the powerstroke. yes both 4×4's.
If im not mistaken, (Please correct me if im wrong) the E99s used the same injectors and turbo as the OBS 7.3, Meaning the e99 has single shot injectors
I sold my dodge 1500 hemi and bought a 2000 ford 7.3..never owned a deisel before.. but i wanted something bigger to tow my my boat..it must hsve been babied because its in emmaculate condition for a 20 year old truck.. i hired a deisel mechanic to pit it on a maintenance program every couple thousand of miles..his thoughts were he'll get another 600k miles out of the motor.. that seems impossible now days for ant car but ill try. It is loud, and compared to my hemi shes slower..but its just stock..i dont have any tuner stuff on it. Im just happy to have a truck that seems to be pretty reliable.
I’m enjoying the content, thank you! Regarding the transmission, what is your opinion of the Allison 1000 conversion? Can you make a video on pros and cons?
Thank you kindly RndDiesel! What a fantastic and thorough explanation of the 7.3. I'm getting a school bus that is the 98 International 3800 series t444e. Transmission 545. I'm wondering if it's the same. As you were talking about the 98. I learned so much from this video again. Thank you kindly for sharing and I agree With the previous response that you could start a serious page here and not only make money but be helping a lot of people like myself who does his own maintenance on his vehicle.
I appreciate your kind words, thank you! You're getting a really cool rig it sounds like. It would be cool to get one of those old buses and turn it into a sweet RV. I don't really know too much about the t444e or really much about the non Ford world of diesels. I know the T444e is basically a 7.3 Powerstroke, or rather the 7.3 Powerstroke is a modified T444e made for Ford. There are some differences between them like different front covers, and overall tuning strategy as far as I know. There's a lot more differences than I can think of right now, though basically they are the same long block engine. Non light duty truck transmissions are also a bit out of my realm as well. As I understand it the buses and medium duty trucks use different transmissions than the Ford trucks with 7.3's. You may be best off searching through forums and what not to get a better understanding of your rig. There's a lot of information out there especially if you find a good online forum covering the subject.
I am thinking of taking a set of injectors off a 99+ 7.3 to quiet down the engine a bit. Would you have anything against somebody doing that? or any warnings/precautions before doing that?
damn good talk, being the owner of a 03 f350 powerstroke w/ 7.3 I could really appreciate the details. You know your shit! Keep up the good work! I do have a question however, my pcm was going out, so I had it soldered and its fine except it puts out a bit too much wattage. sometimes my cig lighter will cook gadgets! Not sure where to start with this issue
Very useful Sr. I fell better about the 94' f350 crew cab long bed I'm looking at, its got 220,000 on it but it goes, slowly, but it goes. Thanks for all your knowledge
My 95 7.3 power stroke is leaking a little bit of diesel when I kill it. It’s no more then a sand dollar of a puddle in size but I can’t figure out what it is. You got any ideas?
I'd be willing to bet its either a leaky fuel line or the fuel pump leaking in the engine valley. I've got a video showing how to replace the pump on my channel if you're interested.
@@Rnddiesel alright I’ll check both those out thank you. And I’ve already seen your fuel pump video lmao but I’ll probably be using it if I gotta replace mine.
Thank you! 7.3's are definitely good engines, and the trucks they are put in are also good as well. They're simple enough that you can work on them yourself, yet powerful enough to get the job done!
Rnddiesel the part of being able to work on them is awesome because I want to learn to but the new vehicles I won’t even bother trying way too complicated . I will soon be making offers for a truck and the 7.3 is what I’ll be going with for sure
I have a 97 crew cab dually with zf5 speed and 1.4 million miles. You are right the cab is being redone but the motor and trans. And rear end (4.10) will pull any thing. I have only done minor repairs on the motor. Several clutch jobs and rebuild the front end. Still mo blowby. The sound is great 4 inch exhaust and 10 tip. No inter cooler. And 6 chip for turner. I hope she last another million miles. Great video. You wont be disappointed by your purchase.
Great video/insight. I learned quite a bit. Best 30 min I've spent all day. You seem quite knowledgeable for such a young lad, you impressed me enough to subscribe. I was trouble shooting a fuel gauge issue on my 2000 7.3 and found your video. I've had her since 7/02, 310k, no major issues or leaks (knock on wood!) I would love to hear you opinion as far as changing the transmission fluid. I changed it once at 200k and have been told by several mechanics to NOT. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated, I love my truck! Thanks
I'm glad to hear the video helped you out! Regarding your transmission, it really depends on what shape the transmission fluid is in. Scotty Kilmer has a video that explains the issue in some detail: ruclips.net/video/ctpVCWjd8b4/видео.html Basically if your transmission fluid is black and full of crud, don't change it because the friction material suspended in the fluid is helping to keep the transmission working. If your fluid still looks relatively clean, then I'd say go ahead and change it. I personally change my fluid every 30k miles. After all that's what the manual says to do. Given that though, I've only changed the fluid a couple of times since I've owned the truck. I haven't had mine as many miles as you've had yours. Bear in mind, the fluid appeared relatively clean when I first got the truck, so the fluid wasn't the thing keeping the transmission from slipping. Having fresh fluid in there will be way better than never changing the fluid. There'll be better lubrication so things will work better overall. With that, I'd advise that you don't get a transmission 'flush.' I've heard a lot of bad stories about transmission flushing. Instead your best bet is to just 'change' the fluid. I.e. drop the pan, drain the fluid out, replace the filter, and fill it back up with fresh fluid. Flushing on the other hand hooks the transmission up to a pump that forces transmission fluid through the system. This risks lodging contaminants into the system and causing a failure. Also if you do change your fluid, you may want to look into adding a bracket to help hold your transmission filter in place. I just used a wiring terminal for mine. Basically the filter can fall out inside the pan and cause a loss of oil pressure inside. I don't think it happens often, but I'd rather have the peace of mind in knowing it can't happen with the bracket installed. Either way best of luck with the truck, and I'm impressed that you have so many miles on the transmission. Maybe the my transmission really does have 381k miles on it now. Take care!
Thank you for the informative 7.3L series. If one wanted a manual shifting 7.3L PowerStroke Super Duty, what year model(s) would you recommend? BTW, nice floor mats. Guns up!
Quick and easy view of the 7.3. It’s downfalls and it’s very positive points. Automatic 2001-2003 had 250hp. Manual had 275hp. ZF-6 is still strong close to 197,000 on it now. Clutch was replaced by previous owner. It’s a south beach clutch. I have found shift points at around 2,000 rpm. To 2,100 rmp. Unless you’re carrying a load. I did have the rearend rebuilt previous owner had a gooseneck set up that I could se was removed. So look under the truck bed for any signs of a gooseneck. May have a problem down the road.
Nice, it sounds like you've got a good setup with your truck! I was fortunate that mine never had a gooseneck, at most all it carried was a bumper pull. Best!
I enjoyed your video. Very well explained. I have a 2001 7.3L I bought new and I love it. Over the years it's all been modified for everyday long distances pulling. You're right if you want a quiet truck don't get a 7.3 it sounds like someone inside with a hammer or eight. I still have "turbo down" 4" to 5" pipe and a muffler but a straight through muffler. Makes driving long distances enjoyable. No sense magnifying the sound anymore with a straight pipe. Thanks again for the history lesson, well taken.👍
Very cool stuff I’m looking to buy a obs; one I like the look; 2 I need diesel to pull my home a 5800 lb caravan I’m looking between 96-03; the 99 are they not obs and any direction u might point to
Good video, only thing is I like the loud, but I was a teenager when these trucks were new and everything was louder, I dont think I could drive a quiet truck, but especially since all the new trucks dont even offer one with a stick coming out of the transmission hump in the floor. I'll rebuild my 93 f250 7.3 turbo as many times as it takes before I buy new.
I recently bought an early 99 F350 with the 7.3 with around 330k from the original owner for $4500. I'm a small block Chevy guy and didn't know much about diesels. My friends think that I either should have kept looking or talked the guy down a few. Lots of little to medium problems, multiple electical issues in the cab, tires shot, steering all worn out, batteries not holding a decent charge, etc. But there are two major problems. First, even though the bed doesn't look too bad from the top, the support rails under it are nearly gone. If I try to use the gooseneck, I'm afraid it will rip right out of the deck. I need to either replace the bed deck or the entire box. Still kicking that one around. What's worse, though, is that I have nearly as much blowby as this truck. That is something that only a full rebuild can fix. So I'm going to try to fix everything else on the truck, but with the engine, I'm only going to do upgrades as things need to be replaced. If I can make it to 500k, then I'll pull it and rebuild it the way I want it. I'll have the tranny bullet proofed at the same time. All that being said, even with all of the messed up stuff, this truck can still out perform my poor old 74 Chevy in every way possible and it still gets 19 mpg if I don't go over 55 compared to the Chevy's 11 mpg. I think I'll keep her.
The ole' 7.3 Powerstroke definitely holds its own. I don't see any issue getting to 500k miles as long as you take care of it. My truck might have some blowby, but heck so do our tractors, and the 51 CAT D4, but it can still push down a tree. You definitely can't go wrong with a well built Diesel!
Thank you very much! The animations definitely take time, though I figured it would be best to help get the idea across. Besides, I watch RUclips too, watching a talking head isn't the most interesting...
Very intelligent young man, as a Ford person, I've been hesitant to go out and purchase newer trucks due to the issues I've heard with 6.0, 6.4, and 6.7. Preciate his insight!!
Well thank you very much for your kind compliments! The new trucks do have tons of power and they are really quiet too. It's hard to tell sometimes if a 6.7 psd is even running when you're standing right next to it. If you're not concerned with having all the power in the world and simply want a reliable truck, you definitely can't go wrong with a 7.3!
The 6.0 can be made good with a stack of cash to address the known, but solvable, issues. The 6.4 is a flaming dumpster fire of an engine and should be avoided at all costs. There is no "fixing" most of the 6.4s weaknesses. The 6.7 seems pretty solid and proven at this point. They seem to fail catastrophically when they go, but it is rare. The 7.3 is what I currently own. I had a 6.0 and have driven plenty of 6.4s and some 6.7s at work. If I had $50,000+ to spend on a truck, I'd go for a new 6.7. In the meantime, my 7.3 will get the job done. I dumped $5,000 for a built 4r100 and at only 131k miles, I've got a LOT of driving to do before my 7.3 reaches retirement. Given the choice between a 7.3 and a studded 6.0, it would be a toss-up for me. The 6.0 makes way more power and has a much better auto tranny from the factory. The 7.3 inspires more confidence when towing. No worrying if that hill is the one you pop a head gasket on.
Just got my 7.3 two months ago. 87 Year Old Man sold it to me. He was the original owner with paper work. Garage Kept, 2002 with 101000 miles on it. 2wd F250 Super Cab. He took perfect care of it with documentation. Stole it for $8000. Happy Happy Joy Joy!!!
I have a question , I have a 94 IDI 7.3 Turbo diesel F-250 extended cab long bed. It has the downpipe and a 4in straight exhaust. It has upgraded suspension to a stock F350 with a nanoleaf. Bulletproof automatic transmission. Set up to pull a 32 ft 5th wheel camper. The truck sometimes gets 21 miles to the gallon no chip. I also have a 99 F350 dually crew cab. 7 3 Diesel with an automatic transmission. Both trucks have about 220,000 miles on them. I love them both but one has got to go. Which do you recommend let me go?
Awe man, that really, really stinks, it's not easy to decide between those two! First off, are you running supplemental coolant additives in both trucks? What antifreeze are you using? It's very important for both, especially for the IDI to have those supplemental coolant additives. Regarding the question, I don't know how to answer that. I have two trains of thought here, go figure, two trucks... First off, as I'm sure you're aware, the trucks have 2 different engines in them. The 94 had the 7.3 IDI, it has an all mechanical fuel injection pump while the 99 has the 7.3 Powerstroke with the HUEI Injectors. Engine wise, and I'm sure you'll concur, the Powerstroke makes a fair amount more power compared to the IDI, and if you start tuning, the 7.3 Powerstroke will beat the socks off the IDI power wise. That being said, the Powerstroke also has more electronics and more failure modes than the IDI. IDI wise, probably the only thing that would keep it from starting is air in the fuel lines or bad glow plugs. Basically spin it over and odds are it'll run, that's the thing about mechanical diesels, they are generally, exceptionally reliable. Heck we've got a 72' IH 966 with the 6.8 inline 6, I think it's an IDI, it's definitely all mechanical. I was disking the fields at night when the alternator died, but heck it kept running. Mechanical diesels don't need electricity to keep running, though I don't know about the automatic transmission you've got, that might consume some power to run an independent controller, it's no C6. The powerstroke will require electricity to keep running and fire the injectors, so if you're looking for an engine to go through the apocalypse and survive an EMP, then go with the IDI. Assuming you don't plan on the apocalypse happening anytime soon, then really it could go either way. Anyway, first train of thought, looking at it from a purely business standpoint. The 99 Powerstroke is newer, arguably has more solidly built components, e.g. transmission is much stronger. Parts are easier to find since they made over 2 million Powerstroke 7.3's. It makes more power, has stronger brakes, and pollutes less than the IDI. Its also based on the newer cab & chassis geometry of the super duty, which basically the same cab shape was kept from 1999-2015. You can take a door from a 2015 truck and it'll fit on your 99. If you plan to swap interiors, the Super Duty has more interior swap options, and has a bigger cab than the OBS. That's that, if you're not sentimental, and you plan to use the thing for work and pulling, the Powerstroke is the way to go. Now for the second line of thought. The 7.3 IDI is becoming a rarity these days. They are freaking cool trucks that are from an era before electronics. They mark the beginning of the light duty diesel industry, and the start of torque wars. The body style of the 94 technically makes it a 'classic' being over 25 years old (That particular body style was introduced in 92). The IDI is way cheaper to work on compared to the Powerstroke. A set of IDI injectors is around $300, compared to $1200 for Powerstroke injectors, assuming you do the work yourself. That being said, parts for the IDI are getting more difficult to find. The IDI's aren't found as much anymore in junkyards as their supply is drying up. That being said, you can still find a decent amount of cab/doors/interior parts for the Old Body Style. Their basic design can be traced back to 1981? I believe? Also the body didn't differ between the F150 and the heavier duty F250/F350 series trucks. That makes it easier to find parts, and I'm sure these days you can find OBS parts cheaper than Super Duty parts. Just be careful of Cavitation on the IDI, that is probably their Achilles' heel. The OBS is also a more dated design, so components may more may not be easier to find. That also means there's likely a lot more aftermarket providers of parts compared to Super Duty trucks. Then again, the plastic interior of the OBS truck is going to tend to fall apart more than the Super Duty. There's no changing the fact that plastic gets old and brittle, and plastics did improve from the early to late 90's. If you're nostalgic, keep the IDI. Really ask yourself which one you enjoy driving more overall. Do you like getting comments about the IDI and people saying it's a good looking truck? Is it fun to just cruise around in one truck more than the other? Which one is easier to tow with? Do you feel like you cant go as fast when towing with the IDI compared to the Superduty? Keep whichever one you like the most overall, that's the best way to look at it. Should you choose Super Duty over the IDI, I'll ask you semi-seriously, how much would you sell the IDI for? Best of luck with the decision, it's not an easy one to make.
@@Rnddiesel It really did help give me personally a better understanding of the system, I just recently bought a 2002 7.3 and am trying to learn how to maintain it, so far your channel has been a goldmine for me and I'm sure many others. Keep up the amazing work!
Early 99 here with 310k just replaced the injectors with all new. VERY expensive had it done. I've had the truck 17 years I will replace the Transmission this fall proactively . I'll keep this truck. I like all the creature comforts on the new ones 6.7 but OMG they are complicated. They are expensive to run but I would not hesitate to cross the USA and back with mine again.
Enrique LaRoche I have an early 99 with 290. I had the tranny redone 2 years ago even though I didn’t really need to. I have really only had electronic problems. Brain box, cam position sensor etc. dealing with cold start issues right now but I’m sure it’ll be fixed soon.
I am looking for some input. I found a 97 power stroke 7.3 one owner with the cab in rough shape, the roof leaks, etc. I have the time for the body work although mechanics are hard to come by. Q1 is there a 97 IDI and how can I tell the difference from a power stroke ? Q2 the truck has sat in the yard for over a year, if a sensor is bad how can I differentiate between that and an engine problem? Thank you for your time and will probably have questions after I check out the truck. I have subscribed and 👍
If it's a 1997 7.3, it should have a 7.3 Powerstroke unless someone has swapped it to an idi which is highly unlikely. IDI's were phased out in 1994. The idi will have a 'spider' looking set of fuel lines running to each fuel injector. They are typically painted gray as well. The Powerstroke won't have distinct fuel lines running to the injectors, in fact the injectors sit under the valve cover so you wouldn't even be able to see them. All the fuel line plumbing in the Powerstroke is cast into the cylinder head, and typically the Powerstroke is painted black. If it's a 97 year model you can hook up an OBD2 port scanner and read if there are any codes. You'll have to change the OBD2 protocol to PWM or something like that if I recall correctly, I just know it's a little goofy. Basically though if it has a check engine light on, it probably has a sensor problem. To look for signs of mechanical problems with the engine, take off the oil fill cap and set it back on upside down. If the cap blows off the engine has a serious loss of compression problem. If it just sits there and maybe rattles around a bit, the engine is internally okay. You'll probably see some steam coming from the oil fill when you take off the cap, that is 'blowby' and is normal for diesel engines. If it's just billowing out steam though, the engine may be worn out and on its last leg. Next look at the exhaust. White smoke that burns your eyes indicates fouled injectors that are at least clogged, or the engine is cold and just started up in which case some white smoke is to be expected. If there's a sweet smelling white smoke, the engine is getting coolant into the cylinders which could indicate a cracked block, cylinder head, or blown head gasket. Also look at the coolant before you start the truck. If there's an oily film on top of the coolant, it could be diesel which is an indication of bad injector cups. They can be replaced, it's just added cost. Basically though if the engine sounds fine, passes all the aforementioned tests, and runs, it's good to go. 7.3 Powerstroke's are reasonably robust, and and as long as nothing is apparently wrong, it should be fine. I can get more into what sensors to check and what not in the event that it's not running, but this is getting a bit long winded. Let me know how things work out and if you have any other questions. Best of luck!
all these v 8 diesels need is a steel sleeve is all cylinders...and a larger harmonic ballancer. to smooth out these rattle traps.....than maybee it could be driven by a driver .non owner.
332k still stroking! I needed injectors due to stiction used the ar9100 I've put almost 100k since then an I've not had any more issues out of them. Google it. Personally I think the additive make the motor have less clack. One thing it sure starts a hell of a lot easier when it's cold.
I'm glad to hear the ar9100 fixed the stiction! I have not tried any archoil products in my truck yet. I replaced my injectors not long ago, but I'm pretty sure the poppet valves were just plain worn out and I don't think anything short of a rebuild would've fixed that. Without tuning the truck had no get up and go whatsoever. Just replacing the injectors with stock nozzled units made all the difference in the world. Do you notice any better fuel economy with the ar9100?
@@Rnddiesel Actually, could of saved a lot of money by shimmying the armature plate on the injectors. Done by many people to much satifaction.. Inj's/glo plugs don't have to be removed. Great video on RUclips and the kit is about $75 on ebay. Like injecting New life into Inj's. No pun intended. Lol Look it up let me know what you think.
@@brucebell7623 The shim kit is interesting, I really don't know enough about the actual wear parts on the injectors to be able to add any commentary. It seems reasonable from my limited understanding of the injectors that it would make a difference, though I'm sure any old injector is going to have other wear parts as well. It may be worth trying one of these days when I get another project 7.3. Thanks!
Did you replace injectors? Or just use additive? min is up to 400,000 miles and it was running just fine then one day above freezing 35 no start I plugged block heater in 30 minutes later it started rough and ran rough for about 15 minutes then ran just fine, I have a 2003 power stroke excursion and I replaced the glow plug relay electronic module and that solved the starting issue but now it still takes about 15 minutes of running rough before it stops being sluggish if I drive it it will shake alot any ideas I would like to find a computer to see exactly the issue without paying to use someone else's that shows each injector performance.
@@JohnHynes_at_lookituplive 400k miles is a lot for 7.3 injectors, and it shouldn't have too much of an issue starting at 65 *F though it depends on oil temperature. If it got colder the night before, the rest of the engine block may still be well below 65 *F. I replaced my injectors, and it was definitely needed. My truck was super sluggish before even after it was worn out. Basically the poppet valves wear and it retards the timing reducing performance, otherwise it still ran fine. Injectors are expensive, so it would definitely be good to check other things first before you go about replacing them. Check the ICP sensor for excessive oil in the wiring connector, under valve cover wiring harness, IPR 'tin nut,' and ideally get a scan tool like the Scan Gauge 2 to monitor your HPOP, IPR duty cycle, and other things. If you have an Android run an injector buzz test using 'Car Gauge Pro' and a bluetooth OBD 2 reader like the BAFX module. The app royally sucks especially for 8 bucks, but it runs an injector buzz test for next to nothing and can do a cylinder contribution test as well. It would likely help if you replace the injectors, but definitely check everything else out first that is much cheaper and easier to replace. Best of luck!
The later the model on any vehicle , in this case the 99 -2000 ( and on ) body’s -chassis are much longer lasting , the rubber and interior peices ( dash and door panels ,seats ) are less stringent and more giving making no the interiors last longer ( for those who care anyway .
I'll second that! The OBS trucks are nice, but the interiors tend to get very rattly. Go figure Ford get's better at making plastic interiors as the years go by, but it is what it is!
Im looking at a 1997 ford F250 7.3 as a first vehicle. It has 130k, but was used to plow. The guy is asking $9k, but on KellyBlueBook it puts it between $6800 and $9500. A little rust, but the bumper needs to be replaced. What do you think its worth? Any input is welcome!
130k is low miles for a 7.3, but definitely check it out, make sure there isn't excessive blow by and the transmission is in good shape? Automatic, 4x4? Crew Cab? For $9500 that thing better be immaculate. Heck if there's rust on it and it needs the bumper fixed, that'll nock off at least $1k from the price. Check around and see what the going rate for comparable trucks is. I paid $4500 for my rust free CCLB 4x4 7.3 with 343k miles. It's a little beat up, needed brakes, a radiator, had worn injectors, and gas in the rear tank...... Don't be afraid to look at trucks with more miles, there's a certain point at which people just ask more because it's low miles, when a highway mileage 250k truck might actually be in better shape.
I had to change my ipr valve , the coil would get hot and it would shut off but you would have to let it cool down and then you could ride a little further, and then shut off again watch my video on it .
How about the new body style 7.3 the 99-04.5 are they all still the same other than the split injection and a little more electronic. I know alot about powerstroke but not everything. I've had a couple obs 7.3 powerstroke and an 01 and 6.0, 6.4, my dad has a 16 6.7 and I'm learning about it. I'm not no diesel mechanic nor claim to be but you seem to have done some leg work. So if you can answer that question I would appreciate it because I'm thinking about buying a low mileage 01 cheap 7.3 and it needs a little work nothing major but if I'm going to have some of it apart I might go a little bit further and up grade the injectors and the controller. So don't tell my wife he he he.
Good question! I'm definitely not an expert either, but I'll answer your question as best I can. It sounds like you've had experience with quite a few Ford diesels along the way. Ford light duty trucks (F250 & 350) were offered with the 7.3 Powerstroke for 1999-2003 year models. Halfway through 2003 they began offering the 6.0 Powerstroke alongside the 7.3 where the 6.0 eventually replaced the 7.3. Compared to the OBS, Super Duty trucks have more sophisticated electronics, more sensors, and slightly more diagnostic capability. The SD trucks definitely are split shot. A common 'upgrade' is to convert them over to run single shot injectors instead. Single shots can make more power as they are more efficient at getting fuel into the cylinder in a shorter time frame, at the consequence of being louder and slightly worse at polluting. If you do swap to single shots, which pretty much all aftermarket 7.3 injectors are, you'll need to get a tuner/ chip to reprogram the computer to run the single shots, otherwise you risk serious engine damage. Another weak spot for the SD's is the turbo, though really I think the turbo is a 7.3 weakness in general, they are outdated by today's standards and really weren't sized that great to begin with. SD turbos have a habit of 'surging.' Basically the turbo tries cramming air into an engine that won't take it and it causes a sort of 'flutter' as the compressed air tries to find a way out of the turbo. Surge can cause series turbo damage as well. It can be fixed by changing the compressor housing to a ported 'anti surge' design that provides an extra path for the compressed air to work its way around the compressor housing. OBS trucks generally don't have the surge problem since they have much larger turbine housings that cause them to be a bit laggy in low rpm operation, SD trucks spool quicker with a smaller turbine housing (A/R ratio) but the trade off is higher exhaust back pressure in general, lower turbine efficiency at WOT, and the risk of surge. I would also recommend you install a 6.0 transmission cooler for your 7.3 if it has an automatic transmission. Unfortunately 7.3's aren't known for having strong automatic transmissions, and a larger transmission cooler can go a long way to help keep it together. Of course if you're doing any sort of 'performance' upgrades to any vehicle, a set of gauges is a must if you hope to keep the truck alive. I use a glowshift 3 in 1 to monitor EGT's, Transmission Temperature, and Boost pressure. It's pretty much the cheapest gauge setup at around $160, and I have a video on the channel detailing the install if you want to check it out. A 2001 truck should still have forged connecting rods, but check the serial number if you can. Later model 7.3's came with powdered metal rods that aren't as strong as the forged units. As a general rule of thumb a powdered metal rod 7.3 is good for about 400 rear wheel horsepower before you need to worry about breaking the connecting rods, forged rod 7.3's can handle around 700 hp without concern. Either way, 400 hp to the ground is still a ton of power! It may be a bit difficult to get around not telling the wife though... haha best of luck with hat one! For more info on the differences between OBS and SD trucks check out my video OBS vs Super Duty 7.3 : ruclips.net/video/8SioWD4MZlE/видео.html It's a long boring video but covers quite a lot. If you want to upgrade injectors I'll let you know what my setup is on my OBS. I'm running Full Force Diesel 'stage 1' injectors rated at 160cc flow rate and 0% over sized nozzles running FFD tuning via a TS6 chip. I also have a full exhaust system, 3-3.5 inch downpipe to a 4 inch with a DIY glasspack, aluminum SD 7.3 intercooler, Glowshift 3 in 1 gauge, NAPA 6637 open air filter, and a 6.0 transmission cooler. The truck has more power than I feel safe using with a stock e4od. I've had the injectors for about 6 months now, they are incredible, smoke like crazy, and I think I've only ever floored the truck 3 times on a relatively 'cool' tune, just haven't needed any more power than that. FYI I have 'built' my truck for about as cheap as is possible with a homemade intercooler system and exhaust, even so the whole setup still cost me around $2000 total (it did actually need new injectors). For you truck, check out a set of 180cc injectors with stock 0% nozzles, that or a 'stage 1.5' 180cc with 30% nozzles (I believe). I went with 160cc injectors as I have the stock OBS hpop, though SD hpop's are stronger and can support the larger 180cc injectors. On another note early 1999 (e99) model SD 7.3 trucks are a goofy hybrid between SD and OBS trucks, but you won't have to worry about that if you get an 01. I'll warn you though, getting the hot rod 7.3 bug is addicting, expensive, and a whole lot of fun. It's more than a new can of worms, it's a barrel of worms... Best of luck!
I'm not looking to beat every Chevy or dodge but I'm just looking for upgrade parts to build for durability longer life and of course more power. I've had the 6.0 and 6.4 tuned up and they would run. But I started breaking parts and running out of money to fix them and keep them going because I couldn't keep my foot out of it and dodge and Chevrolet's in the rearview. I just want a diesel truck without all the bull crap emissions and be more reliable as I can make it. I can get a new truck but I have a hard time paying 60 70 thousand dollars for one that's got all that crap on it to kill it. Now the fines are getting worse for deleting trucks. I talked to a guy at the ford dealership and he was having to buy some parts to put back the emissions on his truck after a $15,000 fine and they would reduce the fine to $5,000 when he proved he had. I just want a good reliable reasonably powered 7.3 to pull my tractors camper or whatever till I finally give in and get a new truck. And maybe buy then the emissions crap will be wont be as strict and can delete everything. So thanks for your input. I'm going to keep researching this topic and see what I get myself into
@@keithhughes2936 Wow I didn't know the fines were getting that high! Definitely do your research, you can make some credible power from a 7.3, heck even just tuning the truck with stock injectors will make a world of difference as I'm sure you know. I'd be shocked if they ever cut back on emissions regulations, I'm afraid its a one way street. Heck I've even heard rumors of them putting particulate filters on gasoline engines now too!
One other thing. If you're considering an OBS vs Super Duty 7.3, check out the comparison video on my channel. OBS vs Super Duty 7.3 Powerstroke. It should cover all the major differences between the two. Glad to help!
Performance question for you 7.3 when I got it it and for 3 years cold or warm weather it would start right up and run great, this year one cold morning I went to start it and nothing, it was not very cold about 35 but no start so I plugged it in to see it it would help and it did but would run rough for about 15 minutes then it would run fine, the rest of the day. I saw many videos that showed checking the glow plug relay and it fails then replace it and problem solved, mine had a moduel control instead and I went for it and replaced it and it did start right up the next day and every day after but now even after it's warm out 65 degrees it runs rough for about 15 minutes almost like it's missing and shaking a little. Once warmed up though it runs fine, any suggestions on this issue would be greatly appreciated if you could help please. This is a 2003 Ford excursion 400,000 miles
I'm not a mechanic, but could it be air getting into the fuel lines? I just replaced injector heads and hoses on a 7.3idi, and it ran rough for a few minutes as the air worked is way out. Also, if you can't start it, maybe a little shot of starting fluid spray would help as a temporary solution.
Also, if it starts right up after warmed up, it could be something to do with glowplugs. ... rambling now, but I find that paying a shop for a diagnostic is usually worth it, even if I end up doing the repair myself, at least I'm not fixing the wrong thing just to rule it out.
The engines are the same, but suspension is a different story. F250's typically came with Ford's version of an independent front suspension, whereas the 1 ton's and up came with a solid front axle. I'm not familiar with all the variants of F250 front axles though, so there may be some exceptions to that for all I know.
I have a question my 97 7.3 has a big green sticker on valve cover right by oil dip stick and it says remanufactured motor by international and I see yours does not . Do you know what it could mean ? And we’re is my vin for my motor ?
I'll concur with cole4406, it sounds like you have a rebuilt engine in the truck, either that or some fool slapped a sticker on it for no reason... I think you're looking for the serial number on the engine, I'll reference some folks who know more than me: www.powerstroke.org/forum/94-98-7-3l-general-powerstroke-discussion/71028-where-do-i-find-my-engine-serial-number.html International Navistar is actually the true makers of the 7.3 powerstroke, not Ford. Essentially the 7.3 is an international T444e engine that Ford shoehorned into their trucks and added their own adapters and accessory front covers. It seems reasonable that Ford may have sourced a rebuilt engine for your truck from International instead.
@Dobbies Revenge That's awesome! It sounds like you've got one heck of a monster build on the way. Have fun and start saving for a new transmission haha!
@Dobbies Revenge Awe man that is awesome, I wish I had the transmission to back mine. I do not feel comfortable pushing the pedal down with the stock e4od. It feels like all it would take is one hard acceleration and the transmission will be gone!
Another great thing about diesels is that they have oil on top of the piston (diesel oil) and oil underneath the piston (motor oil). No gas to "wash" the oil off the sides of the cylinder on the combustion stroke. I don't think the talk about the "peripherals" that surround the 7.3 ltr engine is fair to the subject matter. All truck bodies get old and start to get "wear and tear." Heck, my old Dodge trucks fell apart early as far a manual window cranks, alternators, water pumps, etc. So did my Chevys. My current 1983 6.2 ltr GMC has 338,000 miles, has no power, but has a manual tranny and just keeps hauling all the wood I can stack in back of that puppy! Keeping to the subject matter of the 7.3 ltr engine being a great motor, well, it speaks for itself. Your 7.3 ltr had very little blow-by with 330,000 miles or so. Try that with a gas motor.... It also has a lot more power than my old 1983 GMC 6.2 ltr Detroit motor. I know, I had a 1992 F250 4x4 with the 7.3 ltr, I sold it at 560,000 miles and it still ran great. My brother-in-law bought it from me and has 800,000 miles on that old 7.3 ltr diesel.. Try that with a gas motor. No rebuilds as of yet. Oh and the 7.3 ltr had the manual tranny 5 speed. My GMC has a manual 3 speed with a granny gear...
Wow that's awesome, you definitely have accumulated a lot of miles on your diesels! The old GM diesels tend to get a bad rap, but heck they've got the same injection pump as the international 6.9 and 7.3 idi engines. Great story and even better reason to keep the old diesels going!
@@Rnddiesel my old Detroit diesel 6.2 ltr is like a turtle pretending to be the "little train that could." It is slow, but I am retired so, so am I... No need to go fast. Why go fast in life, the finish line is death so why rush to one's death... I have a Tommy lift on the back of my old diesel so I can "roll" large 200 lb rounds on the back of that lift and up into the bed. The front wheels "skip" down the road while the little diesel just keeps on chugging. The only thing I have done to that old diesel is change the oil and fixed the oil cooler line that "rubbed" a hole through it from vibration. Take care brother, you have a great year!
He made detailed mention of the (automatic) transmission that came on the 7.3s and its shortfalls. However he didn't mention that it's the lack of cores as these trucks age that is the biggest issue with them at this point. That said, this is one of the primary reasons that my 2000 7.3 F-350 has the ZF-6! Replace the plate every so often and you're good; those ZF-6s are hoss-bosses! And no, I don't care about the torque multiplier and the claim that the manuals produce less power. They do quite well and more than I need, so that coupled with the avoidance of the automatic tranny issues is the winning combination for me.
@John Campos The engine makes the power, the transmission transfers that power to the axles. Between the 4r100 and the zf6, the 4r100 will outperform due to its torque multipler, provided it can remain cool. So that's the answer to your question. However, those of us with the zf6 are more than willing to accept that tradeoff for its ruggedness and simplicity, not to mention its significantly lower repair/maintenance costs and finally its (usually) longer lifespan. The critical element therein is that the zf6 will transfer more than enough power to meet our needs for our trucks. And that's really the key: what are you gonna use the truck for? If it's hot shot towing with big loads on a routine basis, then you might prefer the automatic. But there's a cost to that extra performance, remember that. For those of us who just need it to tow a fifth wheel, camper, boat or the like around on an occasional basis, the zf6 will meet that need, no problem. Finally, the only other reason you'd prefer the 4r100 is if you don't like shifting or don't want to be bothered with it when pulling or hauling a load. For me it's no problem. Everyone has their own feeling on the matter. So that's it. You have to decide what's right for you, but know the tradeoffs going in and make an educated decision.
I have a question fella, I have a 1996 7.3 on a chilly day on start up it smokes a lot.. till it warms up like 10 minutes then it pretty much runs well and no smoke. Is that the injectors? thank you in advance
Usually diesels will give off some white smoke after a cold startup, its basically unburned diesel making its way through the system. 10 minutes does seem a little long for it to still be giving off white smoke, but at idle a diesel doesn't make much heat to help with that. My first thought to check is glow plugs. Does it have issues cold starting otherwise? By chilly how cold are we talking here, 60*F, 30*F, -30*F?
I’m thinking about buying a 97 powerstroke with 300k on it. The guy said he’s never had problems with the power train. But what should I look at on the engine other than blow by?
Good question! Look there's a lot of things to look at and for the most part the engine is pretty basic to check out. Check your blow by, make sure it's nothing excessive. Take the oil cap off, flip it upside down and put it over the oil fill hole. If pressure from the blow by pushes it off, it's a no go for sure, you've probably got a cracked piston, broken ring, or an engine that's just worn out. Feel the upper radiator hose when the engine is running, does it have excessive pressure? If it does this could be a sign of a blown head gasket, though that is rare for 7.3's unless they've got a bigger turbo and injectors. Take a look at the intake, and if you can take it off and get a really good look in there. You want the intake side past the filter to look clean. It may have some oil residue, that's normal, but you don't want to see a bunch of dirt and dust in there. Grit that has made its way past the filter acts like sandpaper and will wear out all the engine way quicker. If you see a lot of dirt, just walk away, you may really want the truck, but trust me, there's a better one out there, unless you want to rebuilt the engine of course. Also inspect the turbocharger impeller vanes, if they are mangled the turbo may be bad and need a rebuild. If you can grab the turbo impeller shaft and see if it has some play in it, push in and pull out on the impeller, if it has play in it, your turbo is shot. You can rebuild the turbo, $300 you can do a darn good job at it too, but turbos on OBS trucks are a royal pain, and I mean a royal pain to remove. If you can, start the truck when it is as cold as possible. If it is hard to start, and or smokes white diesel smoke excessively, you probably have glow plug problems. That's not a huge deal, glow plugs are about $10 a piece, with a $40 control solenoid, and if your valve cover gasket/ wiring harness is bad, you're looking at another $100 ish. Does it leak oil? If it does leak out the front, it could be a bad oil cooler, it's $60 to reseal that, and very messy, but not a huge deal. Look at the coolant in the truck, does it have an oily sheen on it? If it does this could be a sign that the injector cups are bad leaking diesel into the coolant. Does the truck sound like it runs smooth? Have a check engine light? If it sounds rough, it could be a bad injector, or if you also have a check engine light it could be the ICP sensor, that's a $250 sensor. Check out the brakes if you can, this may sound obvious, but they are another $300 ish to replace them all. Check the transmission fluid, best case scenario it should be a bright red color, this is a sign that your transmission is in good shape. If it's burnt, looks brown, be hesitant as the transmission (assuming it's an automatic) is probably on it's last leg and those e4od's aren't cheap. Of course check the AC, make sure that works, I replaced mine for $500 ish doing the work myself, it'll be more if you pay someone to do it of course. The reason I mention all this other stuff is that the truck will nickle and dime you. My truck needed pretty much everything replaced with 343k miles other than the engine and transmission at least. Bottom line, look at everything on the truck as detailed as you can. Yes you can fix things, but in the end it still costs money and time, ask me how I know, I've spent more money fixing my 97 than I originally paid for it... If you find anything odd on the truck and don't know what to make of it or you have any other questions, feel free to message me back, best of luck! You won't regret buying a 7.3.
Lol acoustic guitar- nailed it 🤩🤩🤩 Great informative video And because you took the time with the animation I'm going to show my two sons So they can begin to have an idea - how diesel engines work 👍
Heck yeah, awesome truck! The chip really wakes the truck up, but you know the transmission won't be able to handle the abuse for too long though. I still cringe and cross my fingers every time I put my foot into it; I have no idea how many miles the e4od has on it!
@@caterpillar6nz310 Good deal, yeah I put a 6.0 cooler on my obs as well. I don't pull everyday, so that helps too. I have heard good things about the 5r110's as well. We can always build up our 4r100's/ e4od's after the fact anyway!
Hello Rnddiesel.... The 7.3 powerstroke to me is the end all be all in my book I love it.... though the 6.0 could be an exception.... I'll never own or touch a post emissions diesel. Now onto the platform... I will likely keep the truck for a vveerryy long time.... basically as long as there is someone out there willing to or help to overhaul the motor and restore the body when I need it for another ~400,000+ mi run with er... then I'll continue to drive it hands down. Just to add to what I said already I actually like the 7.3 so much I'd be willing to find a newer body style truck rip out the engine and put the 7.3 in it's place just sayin. Now as far as what you are explaining in this video I want to make it short, sweet and to the point... you mentioned noise as being a ~somewhat problem I like the noise it's a diesel and people who don't like it can wear earplugs or ear muffs lol. Also you mentioned the transmission as being weak which alright I'll go with that but then you said that they can be upgraded to be practically bulletproof which is good because they can be. What throws me is when you say they can't be like that of a modern transmission which is true but not true in some respects.... gear vendors makes overdrive units for this kind of situation which in a way effectively makes the EO4D and 4R100 like a modern transmission. I could go on for a bit longer with other things you mentioned but unfortunately or fortunately, depending on how you look at it lol, I do not feel like typing anymore. I just wanted to throw two cents into the pot.... till next time.
@ Ray Dornbush, I'll second that on the 7.3. I sure hope to be able to hold onto mine for a very long time as well! I think the main issue with keeping our 7.3's on the road 40 years from now is having the proper electronics to run them. Odds are the computers won't last forever and we'll have to resort to some aftermarket variant thereof, but heck I'm sure computers will be pretty darn good in the 50's (2050's haha). Look I like the sound of the old school 7.3 too. The point is not everyone out there is as enthused about noise emissions as we are. It is incredible how quiet the new diesels are though. The technology behind the noise control in pretty ingenious. Regarding he transmission, of course you can upgrade the transmissions. If you look at the features of the new, say 6r140 for the 6.7, it's got a few things the 7.3 transmissions will never have without serious modifications. Sure we can drop an overdrive unit behind them, you can do that to a transmission from 50 years ago too. I could also replace my diesel engine with a jet turbine, or drop a 15 speed behind my 7.3, or buy a new truck etc... The point is I mostly referenced the basic building block of the transmission as not being capable of achieving what a modern transmission can. Most people, unlike us, don't view their old 7.3's as a sentimentally good engine. To most folks, they're old junk trucks at this point, they don't make the power of a modern engine, they're noisy, dirty, and expensive to fix if they break. When you start talking about serious aftermarket, custom work, sure everything goes out the window on performance. Look at the 6r140. It has 6 forward speeds, with 2 overdrives. Essentially it also throws in an extra gear down low before you hit overdrive. This allows the engineers to keep the 6.7 in it's optimized power band for fuel economy or pulling power. Sure go ahead and drop in an overdrive unit, replace the planetary gear sets in the transmission so you get the extra gear like the 6r140, spend some hours tuning everything with two computer's that weren't designed to be interfaced, sure it can be done, but I think at this point, you're already spending way more than the cost of a good used 6.7 psd. Now you've also got a way more complex setup. You've got a separate computer, a separate overdrive unit, an untested gear set that is all more prone to breakage as well. We don't buy 7.3's because they are modern and sophisticated, we buy them because they are simple. By nature, that simplicity comes at the cost of efficiency and optimization. That's something we're fine with since we enjoy our trucks. With the new transmissions you have an entirely different case that is larger, was specifically designed with larger components capable of handling more power, you've got specific spring dampening mechanisms inside that help cope with the 6.7 lugging power. You can't just rebuild that into a 4r100. Also modern transmissions are fully integrated with the engine specifically. They talk to the engine and visa versa if you will. That give's Ford tuner's an unprecedented amount of control. Look at modern computer modeling software and compare it to what they had in the early 90's to design the e40d. Engineers are more able to accurately predict the stress levels in components with our modern analysis software. This allows you to add material to components where its needed, and remove material where it's not needed. You can make the components beefier, and potentially lighter too. I think you get the gist at this point. Look I love the 7.3 psd platform as much as you, maybe more, but let's not conflict over that haha. In the end we're both preserving 7.3's for the rest of history. Not many people can say that, and I think that's pretty cool. Good conversation sir, talking 7.3's, diesel, truck you name it is fun. Keep that 7.3 going! -Rnddiesel
@@brucebell7623 It would be awesome to see a video of your truck, could you post a video of it on your channel? The only email I have is my personal one, and I'd like to keep that undisclosed for now.
Great breakdown on the 7.3, well explained and appreciate the insights. Love the 7.3 but it has as said the rest of the truck has its limitations. 1996 with everything manual...
Unless you are willing to do some serious modifications that would likely require redesigning the cylinder heads, then no. IDI's and the 7.3 Powerstroke utilize very different injection methods and their injectors are not interchangeable. All powerstroke injectors are significantly larger than IDI injectors too in terms of their physical geometrical size. IDI's have a separate 'injection pump' that supply high pressure fuel to the injectors when it is time for that cylinder to fire. The IDI injectors basically just act like one way valves that let high pressure fuel flow through and they also atomize the diesel fuel upon injection as well. Powerstroke injectors such as the split shot's you're referring to are much more complex. Powerstoke 7.3's don't have true injection pumps, so the injectors act as a mini injection pump and injector all in one. They take high pressure oil and use that in a mini hydraulic cylinder inside the injector, to pressurize the fuel so it can be injected into the cylinder when it is time for it to fire. With that, 7.3 Powerstroke injectors require high pressure oil, at least 500 and up to 3000+ psi to properly operate that the IDI simply doesn't have. Also Powerstroke injectors require electronic control to get them to fire, you'd need to rig up a full fledged engine computer with sensors as well to get them to operate. It would take serious modification to get split shot powerstroke injectors in an IDI, you'd basically need to build a new engine to do so. Heck it might be easier to stick a set of common rail injectors into the IDI. You'd still need a computer to control things and a common rail injection pump, but at least the injectors are closer in size to the idi injectors.
Glad to hear, I hope it stays leak free for you! I fixed my oil cooler, and luckily my bowl doesn't leak yet, but I think the rear main seal on my truck is starting to weep, oh well!
@@dsruddell Yeah, I'd hope that's the case with mine too, but from all the poking around I've done looking for the leaks, my turbo seems to be holding oil just fine. Heck it's leaking around the starter area, do you have any idea of what that could be?
@@Rnddiesel that's the side where the block drain is. I have a 03 6spd and did my clutch earlier this year. My old clutch was so worn it packed the block drain with clutch fibers. I actually changed the clutch because I lost a seal on a hpop line at the head. Instead of draining it filled the bell housing and within a hundred miles or so contaminated my clutch. Had to limp it home. I would try to clean out your engine valley and take a look at the turbo to block mount. Mine is weeping now. 305k miles. The heat will eat the oil seals. If you Google about the block drain someone went to the trouble of making a small copper pipe that bypassed the whole clutch and dumped it straight out the bottom. Not an issue for automatics. I did a South bend clutch and have been happy with it even though they sent me the wrong flywheel bolts and had no idea they changed the pressure plate for my kit. It's been holding up towing a loaded 32ft enclosed car hauler. I really want stock t444e injectors since I have PRM rods. I have a hydra chip and love it. Banks 4" back exhaust with no ebpv and Ford ais intake. Cclb 4wd dually towing at 65-70 I get around 14mpg which isn't horrible for the weight, hills and speed. 4.10 btw
@@dsruddell Thanks for the tips! I'll take a look at mine and clean it off again. I've been in the valley so much to work on the fuel system already! It sounds like you've got a pretty sweet rig. The intake and exhaust will definitely help open up the truck. By the way, do you know what size the stock t444e injectors are? I've got 160cc 0% nozzled injectors with Full Force Diesel tuning. Other than producing clouds of black smoke, I've got no complaints. It runs great with tons of power! You should be good to run a set of stage 1 180cc 0% or 30% injectors even with the powdered metal rods. I'm too worried to really get into the pedal though, my e4od doesn't have the greatest reputation in the world.
I dont think they are really very easy to work on myself. I prefer my duramax i have had less issues and more power and no oil leaks. No breakdowns. Ford popped the braided oil lines and pissed oil all over the place, Leaked like a pig, then cracked 3 pistons ruclips.net/video/xnY-mGt113M/видео.html
Good Question! I really don't know the history myself, it was on the truck when I bought it. I've seen a few other OBS trucks with the exact same bumper, and judging by the way the 3/8 inch metal was actually bent rather than cut and welded, I'd say it was manufactured by some company for a while. It doesn't have any markings on it either to indicate what brand it is though. It has definitely saved my truck in a couple rear end collisions already!
Thank you, I appreciate your kind words! I'll second that thought on the 7.3. As long as we take care of them, they can really only go up in value from here. They're great engines with decent power potential, and no emissions controls. Besides, some of them are turning into 'classics' now too!
I've had mine since new 1997 4x4 crewcab. It has a programmer on it and I'm quite happy with power and the fact its paid for. Only 188k miles and I can't really tell much difference in it from when it was new. The doors need new strikers and seals need replaced. Windows are units are getting weak. I've replaced wire harnesses under valve covers, of course the heater core in fuel filter housing will always be an issue, replaced the air filter with a huge 18 wheeler one, putting new shocks helped alot. My interior need some attention. I plan on doing most of it because you can't find as anyone these days to trust not to break 10 other thing while fixing that one. You are very well read and should continue on making videos. Great Job and hope to see more in future.
Thank you so much for your compliments, it means a lot to me! I think it's awesome that you still have your truck after all these years, not many people can say that. 188k is also very low on miles too! I'm sure you've heard it before, but don't sell the truck! Heck my truck, as worn out as it is, I wouldn't even think about selling it. I get what you mean about the interior falling apart. I've tried epoxy, glue, and plastic welding, but it always still breaks. The next move is to try fiberglass, hopefully that'll reinforce the old door panels and keep the thing from rattling like a can of marbles. It's too bad no-one makes large replacement interior door parts for these trucks, a new dash would definitely be nice. I'll definitely keep up with the videos, so keep an eye out for them!
You know your stuff. Whatever your doing keep it up. Perfect it and run with it. I watch alot of RUclips and you are impressive. Plus beyond your years in maturity and communication skills in this day and age. You know how to resonate which is really a gift. I'll admit alot of what you talked about was over my head but I enjoyed listening to you describe it. Dont forget to be alittle silly. It breaks up the fact we are talking about nuts and bolts.
@@hhowlerin Hey to both you guys I also have 97, crew cab 7.3 ,230,000 miles . Truck body super clean, had some suspension,engine work done In the past year. $8,000 dollars worth. Every where i go ,people who know and don't know these tricks give me thumbs up. I luv it and will keep it for ever.smfh.
I was told any one of the major issues with Dodge or Ford right now would be more that what I could totally pay someone to swap my entire engine for. I'm seeing a quick shift in mechanical cost with all the added sensors and computers. We may have the last dependable long lasting truck ever made. I rode in a King Ranch 2018 recently. They are great but totally tech now. Seats weren't as comfortable as they should be in that price range.
The electronics on the 7.3 powerstroke dont feel like a big deal till you have a problem that leaves you stranded and costs big $. Switched to an idi. I dont care about speed I like the mechanical reliability personally.
Congrats on the 96 Powerstroke! Only 46k miles, that's unbelievable. You sure got a gem there. I'll second that on the 6.9 and 7.3 idi engines. They are definitely quieter. A friend of mine has a later model gm 6.5 idi with the ds4 pump, and it is really weird, that truck is way quieter than my 7.3 powerstroke. I don't know why idi's are so much quieter, perhaps it has something to do with extra cast iron around the swirl ports absorbing more of the noise? Idi's definitely have a unique sound for sure. I think it's awesome that you've had so much experience with the idi's. Do you have a whole fleet of them?
thats why now any vehicle has manual shift opinion in there automatics for people like us want shift gears and to many dont know how fix manual trans or to drive them thats also why heavy duty side wend to auto shift low coast of repairs from people breaking transmissions or clutches they have for round 15 years now maybe longer where theyll slowy enter douse it and theres differnt verses of them to...yes theres are kinds of automatics that use clutches in cars at less not sure on the trucks
Good point! At the end of the day though, nothing quite beats the real thing. Sure you can have an automatic where you can shift gears, but there's something so satisfying when you have the control to smoothly engage the clutch. For better or worse, a modern automatic transmission can shift way quicker than you or I can, and probably get you comparable fuel mileage by optimizing the gearing.
Bouta get a 97 7.3, your info makes me feel confident with getting the basics down about the truck, never owned a diesel so excited, damn trucks getting expensive tho
The single shots sound so much better than splits!
If you don't mind me saying this to you young man. I was thoroughly impressed with this video. I'm an old coot, who has been enjoying my 7.3 for the last 6 years. Learning about it has been a passion for me, and I've been methodically making good improvements on it as I go. Mind you, I'm not interested in making a ridicules racing machine, as some have actually done, merely doing a series of little things that are improving performance, without compromising longevity in any major way.
I loved your mature, easy to understand information. It was straightforward, interesting and practical without any zaney, goofy interaction. I will be following your videos with great interest hoping to clean any and all ideas that you're kind enough to share. Thanks a bunch !
Just picked up a 1995 F250 with a 7.3, ZF5 manual tranny extended cab Long box.
Paid 250$ Canadian for it... Kid said the glow plugs were going and the injectors were on their way out. It leaked diesel from the valley, the water pump was shot and the starter was fried.
Bought a lift pump for 100$, starter for 150$ and a water pump for 200$, it no longer leaks diesel, coolant and it starts up every turn of the key. I replaced and tightened up the battery fittings and charged them up. Idles perfect at 600, doesn't miss a beat. The tranny doesn't care for 2nd gear, otherwise she shifts great. It had a tool box in it, but I sold it for 200$. All in, including battery fittings and an oil change, I'm roughly 600$ Canadian into 7.3 PSD that has little blowby, doesn't leak and everything works. 376K or 233,000 Miles on the engine.
Cool video
Love my powerstroke I have the ts tuner wich really wakes the animal up !
I have a 1993 7.3 idi. EVERYTHING is shot. Springs,ac,metal in the oill,2nd body with holes in the floor,seat is to the frame but it is still hauling hand picked wood for my small carpentry business. Lucky enough to purchase 2.5yrs ago a 2000 7.3 powerstroke which was forage kept. using at work more than I wish. Honestly the cab is getting beat. Better motor I understand but the Idi never lacked when pulling someone out. Yes, both manuals but I still prefer my old friend the 1993 idi. I don't think my current Labrador retriever has a preference. I try to explain the vinal seat and floor vs carpet and cloth when your sweaty, sandy or wet from the ocean. There is more room under the old frame even though the front shocks are compressed. I can't roll over when working under the powerstroke. yes both 4×4's.
If im not mistaken, (Please correct me if im wrong) the E99s used the same injectors and turbo as the OBS 7.3, Meaning the e99 has single shot injectors
I sold my dodge 1500 hemi and bought a 2000 ford 7.3..never owned a deisel before.. but i wanted something bigger to tow my my boat..it must hsve been babied because its in emmaculate condition for a 20 year old truck.. i hired a deisel mechanic to pit it on a maintenance program every couple thousand of miles..his thoughts were he'll get another 600k miles out of the motor.. that seems impossible now days for ant car but ill try. It is loud, and compared to my hemi shes slower..but its just stock..i dont have any tuner stuff on it. Im just happy to have a truck that seems to be pretty reliable.
My 97 Powerstroke only has 120K miles. Never spent much on engine, just servicing, but yes the XLT truck will fall apart before the NavStar will.
Thanks for these two very thorough, informative videos. Just bought a 2001 E-450 Braun Ambulance to use as a camping/adventuring vehicle.
I have a 2001 E450 shuttle bus.... Love this thing
Extremely thorough breakdown of the 7.3. You have the basis to have a huge diesel platform here on RUclips. Awesome job
Thank you very much! The old school 7.3 is just awesome. I appreciate the kind words, the channel is growing slowly but surely!
Very impressive presentation, especially with the simple to the point illustrations and animations.
thank you for these videos
I’m enjoying the content, thank you!
Regarding the transmission, what is your opinion of the Allison 1000 conversion? Can you make a video on pros and cons?
Thank you kindly RndDiesel! What a fantastic and thorough explanation of the 7.3. I'm getting a school bus that is the 98 International 3800 series t444e. Transmission 545. I'm wondering if it's the same. As you were talking about the 98. I learned so much from this video again. Thank you kindly for sharing and I agree With the previous response that you could start a serious page here and not only make money but be helping a lot of people like myself who does his own maintenance on his vehicle.
I appreciate your kind words, thank you! You're getting a really cool rig it sounds like. It would be cool to get one of those old buses and turn it into a sweet RV. I don't really know too much about the t444e or really much about the non Ford world of diesels. I know the T444e is basically a 7.3 Powerstroke, or rather the 7.3 Powerstroke is a modified T444e made for Ford. There are some differences between them like different front covers, and overall tuning strategy as far as I know. There's a lot more differences than I can think of right now, though basically they are the same long block engine. Non light duty truck transmissions are also a bit out of my realm as well. As I understand it the buses and medium duty trucks use different transmissions than the Ford trucks with 7.3's. You may be best off searching through forums and what not to get a better understanding of your rig. There's a lot of information out there especially if you find a good online forum covering the subject.
Yeah good videos. 👍
I am thinking of taking a set of injectors off a 99+ 7.3 to quiet down the engine a bit. Would you have anything against somebody doing that? or any warnings/precautions before doing that?
I meant to say "glean" ideas....not clean. My phone made that change without me noticing until it was too late... lol.
damn good talk, being the owner of a 03 f350 powerstroke w/ 7.3 I could really appreciate the details. You know your shit! Keep up the good work!
I do have a question however, my pcm was going out, so I had it soldered and its fine except it puts out a bit too much wattage. sometimes my cig lighter will cook gadgets! Not sure where to start with this issue
Great information.I love my old wheezy leaky 7.3..she goes and goes..and I cancel out 3 electeic cars..lol
I don't know man, those Lithium batteries take a lot of diesel power to make, we might be pretty close at this point!
Very useful Sr. I fell better about the 94' f350 crew cab long bed I'm looking at, its got 220,000 on it but it goes, slowly, but it goes.
Thanks for all your knowledge
My 95 7.3 power stroke is leaking a little bit of diesel when I kill it. It’s no more then a sand dollar of a puddle in size but I can’t figure out what it is. You got any ideas?
I'd be willing to bet its either a leaky fuel line or the fuel pump leaking in the engine valley. I've got a video showing how to replace the pump on my channel if you're interested.
@@Rnddiesel alright I’ll check both those out thank you. And I’ve already seen your fuel pump video lmao but I’ll probably be using it if I gotta replace mine.
Very thorough I am looking into getting a super duty and I am now sold on the 7.3
Thank you! 7.3's are definitely good engines, and the trucks they are put in are also good as well. They're simple enough that you can work on them yourself, yet powerful enough to get the job done!
Rnddiesel the part of being able to work on them is awesome because I want to learn to but the new vehicles I won’t even bother trying way too complicated . I will soon be making offers for a truck and the 7.3 is what I’ll be going with for sure
@@anthonyfabrizi5829 Sounds great! Best of luck with the truck shopping, and have fun too!
Rnddiesel thank you!
I have a 97 crew cab dually with zf5 speed and 1.4 million miles. You are right the cab is being redone but the motor and trans. And rear end (4.10) will pull any thing. I have only done minor repairs on the motor. Several clutch jobs and rebuild the front end. Still mo blowby. The sound is great 4 inch exhaust and 10 tip. No inter cooler. And 6 chip for turner. I hope she last another million miles. Great video. You wont be disappointed by your purchase.
Great video/insight. I learned quite a bit. Best 30 min I've spent all day.
You seem quite knowledgeable for such a young lad, you impressed me enough to subscribe.
I was trouble shooting a fuel gauge issue on my 2000 7.3 and found your video.
I've had her since 7/02, 310k, no major issues or leaks (knock on wood!)
I would love to hear you opinion as far as changing the transmission fluid.
I changed it once at 200k and have been told by several mechanics to NOT.
Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated, I love my truck! Thanks
I'm glad to hear the video helped you out! Regarding your transmission, it really depends on what shape the transmission fluid is in. Scotty Kilmer has a video that explains the issue in some detail: ruclips.net/video/ctpVCWjd8b4/видео.html Basically if your transmission fluid is black and full of crud, don't change it because the friction material suspended in the fluid is helping to keep the transmission working. If your fluid still looks relatively clean, then I'd say go ahead and change it. I personally change my fluid every 30k miles. After all that's what the manual says to do. Given that though, I've only changed the fluid a couple of times since I've owned the truck. I haven't had mine as many miles as you've had yours. Bear in mind, the fluid appeared relatively clean when I first got the truck, so the fluid wasn't the thing keeping the transmission from slipping. Having fresh fluid in there will be way better than never changing the fluid. There'll be better lubrication so things will work better overall. With that, I'd advise that you don't get a transmission 'flush.' I've heard a lot of bad stories about transmission flushing. Instead your best bet is to just 'change' the fluid. I.e. drop the pan, drain the fluid out, replace the filter, and fill it back up with fresh fluid. Flushing on the other hand hooks the transmission up to a pump that forces transmission fluid through the system. This risks lodging contaminants into the system and causing a failure. Also if you do change your fluid, you may want to look into adding a bracket to help hold your transmission filter in place. I just used a wiring terminal for mine. Basically the filter can fall out inside the pan and cause a loss of oil pressure inside. I don't think it happens often, but I'd rather have the peace of mind in knowing it can't happen with the bracket installed. Either way best of luck with the truck, and I'm impressed that you have so many miles on the transmission. Maybe the my transmission really does have 381k miles on it now. Take care!
Thank you for the informative 7.3L series. If one wanted a manual shifting 7.3L PowerStroke Super Duty, what year model(s) would you recommend? BTW, nice floor mats. Guns up!
You’re without a doubt the most underrated Ford Diesel channel on YT.
Awesome video
Thanks for this video just bought one for dirt cheap trying to get it to run right has low power on take off
THE CARPENTER DAD. I have a 97/98 OBS XLT CCSB 4x4. So far I haven’t had any problems. 🤞
I love the knock of single shots. I have a buddy who has a 99 and it’s much quieter than my 96
Thank You. I have a 2001 Super duty with 115k miles. I learned a lot from you. Thank You
Quick and easy view of the 7.3. It’s downfalls and it’s very positive points. Automatic 2001-2003 had 250hp. Manual had 275hp. ZF-6 is still strong close to 197,000 on it now. Clutch was replaced by previous owner. It’s a south beach clutch. I have found shift points at around 2,000 rpm. To 2,100 rmp. Unless you’re carrying a load. I did have the rearend rebuilt previous owner had a gooseneck set up that I could se was removed. So look under the truck bed for any signs of a gooseneck. May have a problem down the road.
Nice, it sounds like you've got a good setup with your truck! I was fortunate that mine never had a gooseneck, at most all it carried was a bumper pull. Best!
I enjoyed your video. Very well explained. I have a 2001 7.3L I bought new and I love it. Over the years it's all been modified for everyday long distances pulling. You're right if you want a quiet truck don't get a 7.3 it sounds like someone inside with a hammer or eight. I still have "turbo down" 4" to 5" pipe and a muffler but a straight through muffler. Makes driving long distances enjoyable. No sense magnifying the sound anymore with a straight pipe. Thanks again for the history lesson, well taken.👍
Very cool stuff
I’m looking to buy a obs; one I like the look; 2 I need diesel to pull my home a 5800 lb caravan
I’m looking between 96-03; the 99 are they not obs and any direction u might point to
IF YOUR 7.3 STALLS WHEN IT GETS HOT. POUR COLD WATER ON IPR. IF STARTS. REPLACE WITH OEM. ONLY.
Good video, only thing is I like the loud, but I was a teenager when these trucks were new and everything was louder, I dont think I could drive a quiet truck, but especially since all the new trucks dont even offer one with a stick coming out of the transmission hump in the floor. I'll rebuild my 93 f250 7.3 turbo as many times as it takes before I buy new.
Well said ...Bravo !!
I recently bought an early 99 F350 with the 7.3 with around 330k from the original owner for $4500. I'm a small block Chevy guy and didn't know much about diesels. My friends think that I either should have kept looking or talked the guy down a few. Lots of little to medium problems, multiple electical issues in the cab, tires shot, steering all worn out, batteries not holding a decent charge, etc. But there are two major problems. First, even though the bed doesn't look too bad from the top, the support rails under it are nearly gone. If I try to use the gooseneck, I'm afraid it will rip right out of the deck. I need to either replace the bed deck or the entire box. Still kicking that one around.
What's worse, though, is that I have nearly as much blowby as this truck. That is something that only a full rebuild can fix. So I'm going to try to fix everything else on the truck, but with the engine, I'm only going to do upgrades as things need to be replaced. If I can make it to 500k, then I'll pull it and rebuild it the way I want it. I'll have the tranny bullet proofed at the same time.
All that being said, even with all of the messed up stuff, this truck can still out perform my poor old 74 Chevy in every way possible and it still gets 19 mpg if I don't go over 55 compared to the Chevy's 11 mpg. I think I'll keep her.
The ole' 7.3 Powerstroke definitely holds its own. I don't see any issue getting to 500k miles as long as you take care of it. My truck might have some blowby, but heck so do our tractors, and the 51 CAT D4, but it can still push down a tree. You definitely can't go wrong with a well built Diesel!
Dude, way impressed with your video. I especially like your animations.
Thank you very much! The animations definitely take time, though I figured it would be best to help get the idea across. Besides, I watch RUclips too, watching a talking head isn't the most interesting...
Very intelligent young man, as a Ford person, I've been hesitant to go out and purchase newer trucks due to the issues I've heard with 6.0, 6.4, and 6.7. Preciate his insight!!
Well thank you very much for your kind compliments! The new trucks do have tons of power and they are really quiet too. It's hard to tell sometimes if a 6.7 psd is even running when you're standing right next to it. If you're not concerned with having all the power in the world and simply want a reliable truck, you definitely can't go wrong with a 7.3!
The 6.0 can be made good with a stack of cash to address the known, but solvable, issues.
The 6.4 is a flaming dumpster fire of an engine and should be avoided at all costs. There is no "fixing" most of the 6.4s weaknesses.
The 6.7 seems pretty solid and proven at this point. They seem to fail catastrophically when they go, but it is rare.
The 7.3 is what I currently own. I had a 6.0 and have driven plenty of 6.4s and some 6.7s at work. If I had $50,000+ to spend on a truck, I'd go for a new 6.7. In the meantime, my 7.3 will get the job done. I dumped $5,000 for a built 4r100 and at only 131k miles, I've got a LOT of driving to do before my 7.3 reaches retirement.
Given the choice between a 7.3 and a studded 6.0, it would be a toss-up for me. The 6.0 makes way more power and has a much better auto tranny from the factory. The 7.3 inspires more confidence when towing. No worrying if that hill is the one you pop a head gasket on.
Brandon N if blown turbo 7.3 will still run up hill too
Just got my 7.3 two months ago. 87 Year Old Man sold it to me. He was the original owner with paper work. Garage Kept, 2002 with 101000 miles on it. 2wd F250 Super Cab. He took perfect care of it with documentation. Stole it for $8000. Happy Happy Joy Joy!!!
You got a good deal
Awesome vid! Looking at a 96 manual with 203000 on it for $4500!
The pros outweigh the cons.
I have a question , I have a 94 IDI 7.3 Turbo diesel F-250 extended cab long bed. It has the downpipe and a 4in straight exhaust. It has upgraded suspension to a stock F350 with a nanoleaf. Bulletproof automatic transmission. Set up to pull a 32 ft 5th wheel camper. The truck sometimes gets 21 miles to the gallon no chip. I also have a 99 F350 dually crew cab. 7 3 Diesel with an automatic transmission. Both trucks have about 220,000 miles on them. I love them both but one has got to go. Which do you recommend let me go?
Awe man, that really, really stinks, it's not easy to decide between those two! First off, are you running supplemental coolant additives in both trucks? What antifreeze are you using? It's very important for both, especially for the IDI to have those supplemental coolant additives. Regarding the question, I don't know how to answer that. I have two trains of thought here, go figure, two trucks... First off, as I'm sure you're aware, the trucks have 2 different engines in them. The 94 had the 7.3 IDI, it has an all mechanical fuel injection pump while the 99 has the 7.3 Powerstroke with the HUEI Injectors. Engine wise, and I'm sure you'll concur, the Powerstroke makes a fair amount more power compared to the IDI, and if you start tuning, the 7.3 Powerstroke will beat the socks off the IDI power wise. That being said, the Powerstroke also has more electronics and more failure modes than the IDI. IDI wise, probably the only thing that would keep it from starting is air in the fuel lines or bad glow plugs. Basically spin it over and odds are it'll run, that's the thing about mechanical diesels, they are generally, exceptionally reliable. Heck we've got a 72' IH 966 with the 6.8 inline 6, I think it's an IDI, it's definitely all mechanical. I was disking the fields at night when the alternator died, but heck it kept running. Mechanical diesels don't need electricity to keep running, though I don't know about the automatic transmission you've got, that might consume some power to run an independent controller, it's no C6. The powerstroke will require electricity to keep running and fire the injectors, so if you're looking for an engine to go through the apocalypse and survive an EMP, then go with the IDI. Assuming you don't plan on the apocalypse happening anytime soon, then really it could go either way. Anyway, first train of thought, looking at it from a purely business standpoint. The 99 Powerstroke is newer, arguably has more solidly built components, e.g. transmission is much stronger. Parts are easier to find since they made over 2 million Powerstroke 7.3's. It makes more power, has stronger brakes, and pollutes less than the IDI. Its also based on the newer cab & chassis geometry of the super duty, which basically the same cab shape was kept from 1999-2015. You can take a door from a 2015 truck and it'll fit on your 99. If you plan to swap interiors, the Super Duty has more interior swap options, and has a bigger cab than the OBS. That's that, if you're not sentimental, and you plan to use the thing for work and pulling, the Powerstroke is the way to go. Now for the second line of thought. The 7.3 IDI is becoming a rarity these days. They are freaking cool trucks that are from an era before electronics. They mark the beginning of the light duty diesel industry, and the start of torque wars. The body style of the 94 technically makes it a 'classic' being over 25 years old (That particular body style was introduced in 92). The IDI is way cheaper to work on compared to the Powerstroke. A set of IDI injectors is around $300, compared to $1200 for Powerstroke injectors, assuming you do the work yourself. That being said, parts for the IDI are getting more difficult to find. The IDI's aren't found as much anymore in junkyards as their supply is drying up. That being said, you can still find a decent amount of cab/doors/interior parts for the Old Body Style. Their basic design can be traced back to 1981? I believe? Also the body didn't differ between the F150 and the heavier duty F250/F350 series trucks. That makes it easier to find parts, and I'm sure these days you can find OBS parts cheaper than Super Duty parts. Just be careful of Cavitation on the IDI, that is probably their Achilles' heel. The OBS is also a more dated design, so components may more may not be easier to find. That also means there's likely a lot more aftermarket providers of parts compared to Super Duty trucks. Then again, the plastic interior of the OBS truck is going to tend to fall apart more than the Super Duty. There's no changing the fact that plastic gets old and brittle, and plastics did improve from the early to late 90's. If you're nostalgic, keep the IDI. Really ask yourself which one you enjoy driving more overall. Do you like getting comments about the IDI and people saying it's a good looking truck? Is it fun to just cruise around in one truck more than the other? Which one is easier to tow with? Do you feel like you cant go as fast when towing with the IDI compared to the Superduty? Keep whichever one you like the most overall, that's the best way to look at it. Should you choose Super Duty over the IDI, I'll ask you semi-seriously, how much would you sell the IDI for? Best of luck with the decision, it's not an easy one to make.
Really appreciate the animations, and the time and effort it must've taken to do that, great info.
I'm glad you like them! They did take time, but I figured it was worth it to help explain the differences.
@@Rnddiesel It really did help give me personally a better understanding of the system, I just recently bought a 2002 7.3 and am trying to learn how to maintain it, so far your channel has been a goldmine for me and I'm sure many others. Keep up the amazing work!
Early 99 here with 310k just replaced the injectors with all new. VERY expensive had it done. I've had the truck 17 years I will replace the Transmission this fall proactively . I'll keep this truck. I like all the creature comforts on the new ones 6.7 but OMG they are complicated. They are expensive to run but I would not hesitate to cross the USA and back with mine again.
Enrique LaRoche I have an early 99 with 290. I had the tranny redone 2 years ago even though I didn’t really need to.
I have really only had electronic problems. Brain box, cam position sensor etc.
dealing with cold start issues right now but I’m sure it’ll be fixed soon.
I am looking for some input. I found a 97 power stroke 7.3 one owner with the cab in rough shape, the roof leaks, etc. I have the time for the body work although mechanics are hard to come by. Q1 is there a 97 IDI and how can I tell the difference from a power stroke ? Q2 the truck has sat in the yard for over a year, if a sensor is bad how can I differentiate between that and an engine problem?
Thank you for your time and will probably have questions after I check out the truck.
I have subscribed and 👍
If it's a 1997 7.3, it should have a 7.3 Powerstroke unless someone has swapped it to an idi which is highly unlikely. IDI's were phased out in 1994. The idi will have a 'spider' looking set of fuel lines running to each fuel injector. They are typically painted gray as well. The Powerstroke won't have distinct fuel lines running to the injectors, in fact the injectors sit under the valve cover so you wouldn't even be able to see them. All the fuel line plumbing in the Powerstroke is cast into the cylinder head, and typically the Powerstroke is painted black. If it's a 97 year model you can hook up an OBD2 port scanner and read if there are any codes. You'll have to change the OBD2 protocol to PWM or something like that if I recall correctly, I just know it's a little goofy. Basically though if it has a check engine light on, it probably has a sensor problem. To look for signs of mechanical problems with the engine, take off the oil fill cap and set it back on upside down. If the cap blows off the engine has a serious loss of compression problem. If it just sits there and maybe rattles around a bit, the engine is internally okay. You'll probably see some steam coming from the oil fill when you take off the cap, that is 'blowby' and is normal for diesel engines. If it's just billowing out steam though, the engine may be worn out and on its last leg. Next look at the exhaust. White smoke that burns your eyes indicates fouled injectors that are at least clogged, or the engine is cold and just started up in which case some white smoke is to be expected. If there's a sweet smelling white smoke, the engine is getting coolant into the cylinders which could indicate a cracked block, cylinder head, or blown head gasket. Also look at the coolant before you start the truck. If there's an oily film on top of the coolant, it could be diesel which is an indication of bad injector cups. They can be replaced, it's just added cost. Basically though if the engine sounds fine, passes all the aforementioned tests, and runs, it's good to go. 7.3 Powerstroke's are reasonably robust, and and as long as nothing is apparently wrong, it should be fine. I can get more into what sensors to check and what not in the event that it's not running, but this is getting a bit long winded. Let me know how things work out and if you have any other questions. Best of luck!
all these v 8 diesels need is a steel sleeve is all cylinders...and a larger harmonic ballancer. to smooth out these rattle traps.....than maybee it could be driven by a driver .non owner.
332k still stroking! I needed injectors due to stiction used the ar9100 I've put almost 100k since then an I've not had any more issues out of them. Google it. Personally I think the additive make the motor have less clack. One thing it sure starts a hell of a lot easier when it's cold.
I'm glad to hear the ar9100 fixed the stiction! I have not tried any archoil products in my truck yet. I replaced my injectors not long ago, but I'm pretty sure the poppet valves were just plain worn out and I don't think anything short of a rebuild would've fixed that. Without tuning the truck had no get up and go whatsoever. Just replacing the injectors with stock nozzled units made all the difference in the world. Do you notice any better fuel economy with the ar9100?
@@Rnddiesel Actually, could of saved a lot of money by shimmying the armature plate on the injectors. Done by many people to much satifaction..
Inj's/glo plugs don't have to be removed.
Great video on RUclips and the kit is about $75 on ebay.
Like injecting New life into Inj's. No pun intended. Lol
Look it up let me know what you think.
@@brucebell7623 The shim kit is interesting, I really don't know enough about the actual wear parts on the injectors to be able to add any commentary. It seems reasonable from my limited understanding of the injectors that it would make a difference, though I'm sure any old injector is going to have other wear parts as well. It may be worth trying one of these days when I get another project 7.3. Thanks!
Did you replace injectors? Or just use additive? min is up to 400,000 miles and it was running just fine then one day above freezing 35 no start I plugged block heater in 30 minutes later it started rough and ran rough for about 15 minutes then ran just fine, I have a 2003 power stroke excursion and I replaced the glow plug relay electronic module and that solved the starting issue but now it still takes about 15 minutes of running rough before it stops being sluggish if I drive it it will shake alot any ideas I would like to find a computer to see exactly the issue without paying to use someone else's that shows each injector performance.
@@JohnHynes_at_lookituplive 400k miles is a lot for 7.3 injectors, and it shouldn't have too much of an issue starting at 65 *F though it depends on oil temperature. If it got colder the night before, the rest of the engine block may still be well below 65 *F. I replaced my injectors, and it was definitely needed. My truck was super sluggish before even after it was worn out. Basically the poppet valves wear and it retards the timing reducing performance, otherwise it still ran fine. Injectors are expensive, so it would definitely be good to check other things first before you go about replacing them. Check the ICP sensor for excessive oil in the wiring connector, under valve cover wiring harness, IPR 'tin nut,' and ideally get a scan tool like the Scan Gauge 2 to monitor your HPOP, IPR duty cycle, and other things. If you have an Android run an injector buzz test using 'Car Gauge Pro' and a bluetooth OBD 2 reader like the BAFX module. The app royally sucks especially for 8 bucks, but it runs an injector buzz test for next to nothing and can do a cylinder contribution test as well.
It would likely help if you replace the injectors, but definitely check everything else out first that is much cheaper and easier to replace. Best of luck!
The later the model on any vehicle , in this case the 99 -2000 ( and on ) body’s -chassis are much longer lasting , the rubber and interior peices ( dash and door panels ,seats ) are less stringent and more giving making no the interiors last longer ( for those who care anyway .
I'll second that! The OBS trucks are nice, but the interiors tend to get very rattly. Go figure Ford get's better at making plastic interiors as the years go by, but it is what it is!
Im looking at a 1997 ford F250 7.3 as a first vehicle. It has 130k, but was used to plow. The guy is asking $9k, but on KellyBlueBook it puts it between $6800 and $9500. A little rust, but the bumper needs to be replaced. What do you think its worth? Any input is welcome!
130k is low miles for a 7.3, but definitely check it out, make sure there isn't excessive blow by and the transmission is in good shape? Automatic, 4x4? Crew Cab? For $9500 that thing better be immaculate. Heck if there's rust on it and it needs the bumper fixed, that'll nock off at least $1k from the price. Check around and see what the going rate for comparable trucks is. I paid $4500 for my rust free CCLB 4x4 7.3 with 343k miles. It's a little beat up, needed brakes, a radiator, had worn injectors, and gas in the rear tank...... Don't be afraid to look at trucks with more miles, there's a certain point at which people just ask more because it's low miles, when a highway mileage 250k truck might actually be in better shape.
I had to change my ipr valve , the coil would get hot and it would shut off but you would have to let it cool down and then you could ride a little further, and then shut off again watch my video on it .
Helpful video. Thank you.
lets get you to the 1k mark hit the button.
That would be awesome! Thank you so much for the support!
New sub here. Pretty damn knowledgeable. I was looking at 6.0s but maybe I'll consider a 7.3 if I can find one
How about the new body style 7.3 the 99-04.5 are they all still the same other than the split injection and a little more electronic. I know alot about powerstroke but not everything. I've had a couple obs 7.3 powerstroke and an 01 and 6.0, 6.4, my dad has a 16 6.7 and I'm learning about it. I'm not no diesel mechanic nor claim to be but you seem to have done some leg work. So if you can answer that question I would appreciate it because I'm thinking about buying a low mileage 01 cheap 7.3 and it needs a little work nothing major but if I'm going to have some of it apart I might go a little bit further and up grade the injectors and the controller. So don't tell my wife he he he.
Good question! I'm definitely not an expert either, but I'll answer your question as best I can. It sounds like you've had experience with quite a few Ford diesels along the way. Ford light duty trucks (F250 & 350) were offered with the 7.3 Powerstroke for 1999-2003 year models. Halfway through 2003 they began offering the 6.0 Powerstroke alongside the 7.3 where the 6.0 eventually replaced the 7.3. Compared to the OBS, Super Duty trucks have more sophisticated electronics, more sensors, and slightly more diagnostic capability. The SD trucks definitely are split shot. A common 'upgrade' is to convert them over to run single shot injectors instead. Single shots can make more power as they are more efficient at getting fuel into the cylinder in a shorter time frame, at the consequence of being louder and slightly worse at polluting. If you do swap to single shots, which pretty much all aftermarket 7.3 injectors are, you'll need to get a tuner/ chip to reprogram the computer to run the single shots, otherwise you risk serious engine damage. Another weak spot for the SD's is the turbo, though really I think the turbo is a 7.3 weakness in general, they are outdated by today's standards and really weren't sized that great to begin with. SD turbos have a habit of 'surging.' Basically the turbo tries cramming air into an engine that won't take it and it causes a sort of 'flutter' as the compressed air tries to find a way out of the turbo. Surge can cause series turbo damage as well. It can be fixed by changing the compressor housing to a ported 'anti surge' design that provides an extra path for the compressed air to work its way around the compressor housing. OBS trucks generally don't have the surge problem since they have much larger turbine housings that cause them to be a bit laggy in low rpm operation, SD trucks spool quicker with a smaller turbine housing (A/R ratio) but the trade off is higher exhaust back pressure in general, lower turbine efficiency at WOT, and the risk of surge. I would also recommend you install a 6.0 transmission cooler for your 7.3 if it has an automatic transmission. Unfortunately 7.3's aren't known for having strong automatic transmissions, and a larger transmission cooler can go a long way to help keep it together. Of course if you're doing any sort of 'performance' upgrades to any vehicle, a set of gauges is a must if you hope to keep the truck alive. I use a glowshift 3 in 1 to monitor EGT's, Transmission Temperature, and Boost pressure. It's pretty much the cheapest gauge setup at around $160, and I have a video on the channel detailing the install if you want to check it out. A 2001 truck should still have forged connecting rods, but check the serial number if you can. Later model 7.3's came with powdered metal rods that aren't as strong as the forged units. As a general rule of thumb a powdered metal rod 7.3 is good for about 400 rear wheel horsepower before you need to worry about breaking the connecting rods, forged rod 7.3's can handle around 700 hp without concern. Either way, 400 hp to the ground is still a ton of power! It may be a bit difficult to get around not telling the wife though... haha best of luck with hat one! For more info on the differences between OBS and SD trucks check out my video OBS vs Super Duty 7.3 : ruclips.net/video/8SioWD4MZlE/видео.html It's a long boring video but covers quite a lot. If you want to upgrade injectors I'll let you know what my setup is on my OBS. I'm running Full Force Diesel 'stage 1' injectors rated at 160cc flow rate and 0% over sized nozzles running FFD tuning via a TS6 chip. I also have a full exhaust system, 3-3.5 inch downpipe to a 4 inch with a DIY glasspack, aluminum SD 7.3 intercooler, Glowshift 3 in 1 gauge, NAPA 6637 open air filter, and a 6.0 transmission cooler. The truck has more power than I feel safe using with a stock e4od. I've had the injectors for about 6 months now, they are incredible, smoke like crazy, and I think I've only ever floored the truck 3 times on a relatively 'cool' tune, just haven't needed any more power than that. FYI I have 'built' my truck for about as cheap as is possible with a homemade intercooler system and exhaust, even so the whole setup still cost me around $2000 total (it did actually need new injectors). For you truck, check out a set of 180cc injectors with stock 0% nozzles, that or a 'stage 1.5' 180cc with 30% nozzles (I believe). I went with 160cc injectors as I have the stock OBS hpop, though SD hpop's are stronger and can support the larger 180cc injectors. On another note early 1999 (e99) model SD 7.3 trucks are a goofy hybrid between SD and OBS trucks, but you won't have to worry about that if you get an 01. I'll warn you though, getting the hot rod 7.3 bug is addicting, expensive, and a whole lot of fun. It's more than a new can of worms, it's a barrel of worms... Best of luck!
I'm not looking to beat every Chevy or dodge but I'm just looking for upgrade parts to build for durability longer life and of course more power. I've had the 6.0 and 6.4 tuned up and they would run. But I started breaking parts and running out of money to fix them and keep them going because I couldn't keep my foot out of it and dodge and Chevrolet's in the rearview. I just want a diesel truck without all the bull crap emissions and be more reliable as I can make it. I can get a new truck but I have a hard time paying 60 70 thousand dollars for one that's got all that crap on it to kill it. Now the fines are getting worse for deleting trucks. I talked to a guy at the ford dealership and he was having to buy some parts to put back the emissions on his truck after a $15,000 fine and they would reduce the fine to $5,000 when he proved he had. I just want a good reliable reasonably powered 7.3 to pull my tractors camper or whatever till I finally give in and get a new truck. And maybe buy then the emissions crap will be wont be as strict and can delete everything. So thanks for your input. I'm going to keep researching this topic and see what I get myself into
@@keithhughes2936 Wow I didn't know the fines were getting that high! Definitely do your research, you can make some credible power from a 7.3, heck even just tuning the truck with stock injectors will make a world of difference as I'm sure you know. I'd be shocked if they ever cut back on emissions regulations, I'm afraid its a one way street. Heck I've even heard rumors of them putting particulate filters on gasoline engines now too!
Oh btw. Great info! Thanks!
One other thing. If you're considering an OBS vs Super Duty 7.3, check out the comparison video on my channel. OBS vs Super Duty 7.3 Powerstroke. It should cover all the major differences between the two. Glad to help!
Performance question for you 7.3 when I got it it and for 3 years cold or warm weather it would start right up and run great, this year one cold morning I went to start it and nothing, it was not very cold about 35 but no start so I plugged it in to see it it would help and it did but would run rough for about 15 minutes then it would run fine, the rest of the day. I saw many videos that showed checking the glow plug relay and it fails then replace it and problem solved, mine had a moduel control instead and I went for it and replaced it and it did start right up the next day and every day after but now even after it's warm out 65 degrees it runs rough for about 15 minutes almost like it's missing and shaking a little. Once warmed up though it runs fine, any suggestions on this issue would be greatly appreciated if you could help please. This is a 2003 Ford excursion 400,000 miles
I'm not a mechanic, but could it be air getting into the fuel lines? I just replaced injector heads and hoses on a 7.3idi, and it ran rough for a few minutes as the air worked is way out. Also, if you can't start it, maybe a little shot of starting fluid spray would help as a temporary solution.
Also, if it starts right up after warmed up, it could be something to do with glowplugs.
... rambling now, but I find that paying a shop for a diagnostic is usually worth it, even if I end up doing the repair myself, at least I'm not fixing the wrong thing just to rule it out.
Is the 95 7.3 essentially the same as a 97? Block, heads wize????
As far as I know, yes. The front covers were changed somewhere along the way and the ECM got some updates as well of course.
Difference between a 97 f250 7.3 and f350 wngine ,suspension wise?
The engines are the same, but suspension is a different story. F250's typically came with Ford's version of an independent front suspension, whereas the 1 ton's and up came with a solid front axle. I'm not familiar with all the variants of F250 front axles though, so there may be some exceptions to that for all I know.
The only difference between your truck and mine is mine has a grey interior.
And I bought it off the showroom floor in 1998
I have a question my 97 7.3 has a big green sticker on valve cover right by oil dip stick and it says remanufactured motor by international and I see yours does not . Do you know what it could mean ? And we’re is my vin for my motor ?
Yours does not have it
I'll concur with cole4406, it sounds like you have a rebuilt engine in the truck, either that or some fool slapped a sticker on it for no reason... I think you're looking for the serial number on the engine, I'll reference some folks who know more than me:
www.powerstroke.org/forum/94-98-7-3l-general-powerstroke-discussion/71028-where-do-i-find-my-engine-serial-number.html
International Navistar is actually the true makers of the 7.3 powerstroke, not Ford. Essentially the 7.3 is an international T444e engine that Ford shoehorned into their trucks and added their own adapters and accessory front covers. It seems reasonable that Ford may have sourced a rebuilt engine for your truck from International instead.
Guess I must own one of the few 7.3s that doesn't leak 232k and still going strong on my 95 cclb
Don't Jinx it! Haha I think there are quite a few 7.3 owners who are envious right now, myself included.
@Dobbies Revenge That's awesome! It sounds like you've got one heck of a monster build on the way. Have fun and start saving for a new transmission haha!
@Dobbies Revenge Awe man that is awesome, I wish I had the transmission to back mine. I do not feel comfortable pushing the pedal down with the stock e4od. It feels like all it would take is one hard acceleration and the transmission will be gone!
Joseph Selter if your 7.3 isn’t leaking oil you’re out of oil... 😅
Another great thing about diesels is that they have oil on top of the piston (diesel oil) and oil underneath the piston (motor oil). No gas to "wash" the oil off the sides of the cylinder on the combustion stroke. I don't think the talk about the "peripherals" that surround the 7.3 ltr engine is fair to the subject matter. All truck bodies get old and start to get "wear and tear." Heck, my old Dodge trucks fell apart early as far a manual window cranks, alternators, water pumps, etc. So did my Chevys. My current 1983 6.2 ltr GMC has 338,000 miles, has no power, but has a manual tranny and just keeps hauling all the wood I can stack in back of that puppy! Keeping to the subject matter of the 7.3 ltr engine being a great motor, well, it speaks for itself. Your 7.3 ltr had very little blow-by with 330,000 miles or so. Try that with a gas motor.... It also has a lot more power than my old 1983 GMC 6.2 ltr Detroit motor. I know, I had a 1992 F250 4x4 with the 7.3 ltr, I sold it at 560,000 miles and it still ran great. My brother-in-law bought it from me and has 800,000 miles on that old 7.3 ltr diesel.. Try that with a gas motor. No rebuilds as of yet. Oh and the 7.3 ltr had the manual tranny 5 speed. My GMC has a manual 3 speed with a granny gear...
Wow that's awesome, you definitely have accumulated a lot of miles on your diesels! The old GM diesels tend to get a bad rap, but heck they've got the same injection pump as the international 6.9 and 7.3 idi engines. Great story and even better reason to keep the old diesels going!
@@Rnddiesel my old Detroit diesel 6.2 ltr is like a turtle pretending to be the "little train that could." It is slow, but I am retired so, so am I... No need to go fast. Why go fast in life, the finish line is death so why rush to one's death... I have a Tommy lift on the back of my old diesel so I can "roll" large 200 lb rounds on the back of that lift and up into the bed. The front wheels "skip" down the road while the little diesel just keeps on chugging. The only thing I have done to that old diesel is change the oil and fixed the oil cooler line that "rubbed" a hole through it from vibration. Take care brother, you have a great year!
He made detailed mention of the (automatic) transmission that came on the 7.3s and its shortfalls. However he didn't mention that it's the lack of cores as these trucks age that is the biggest issue with them at this point. That said, this is one of the primary reasons that my 2000 7.3 F-350 has the ZF-6! Replace the plate every so often and you're good; those ZF-6s are hoss-bosses! And no, I don't care about the torque multiplier and the claim that the manuals produce less power. They do quite well and more than I need, so that coupled with the avoidance of the automatic tranny issues is the winning combination for me.
@John Campos The engine makes the power, the transmission transfers that power to the axles. Between the 4r100 and the zf6, the 4r100 will outperform due to its torque multipler, provided it can remain cool. So that's the answer to your question. However, those of us with the zf6 are more than willing to accept that tradeoff for its ruggedness and simplicity, not to mention its significantly lower repair/maintenance costs and finally its (usually) longer lifespan. The critical element therein is that the zf6 will transfer more than enough power to meet our needs for our trucks. And that's really the key: what are you gonna use the truck for? If it's hot shot towing with big loads on a routine basis, then you might prefer the automatic. But there's a cost to that extra performance, remember that. For those of us who just need it to tow a fifth wheel, camper, boat or the like around on an occasional basis, the zf6 will meet that need, no problem. Finally, the only other reason you'd prefer the 4r100 is if you don't like shifting or don't want to be bothered with it when pulling or hauling a load. For me it's no problem. Everyone has their own feeling on the matter. So that's it. You have to decide what's right for you, but know the tradeoffs going in and make an educated decision.
ram has offered manuals for the cummins all the way up to this last year
I have a question fella, I have a 1996 7.3 on a chilly day on start up it smokes a lot.. till it warms up like 10 minutes then it pretty much runs well and no smoke. Is that the injectors? thank you in advance
Usually diesels will give off some white smoke after a cold startup, its basically unburned diesel making its way through the system. 10 minutes does seem a little long for it to still be giving off white smoke, but at idle a diesel doesn't make much heat to help with that. My first thought to check is glow plugs. Does it have issues cold starting otherwise? By chilly how cold are we talking here, 60*F, 30*F, -30*F?
I’m thinking about buying a 97 powerstroke with 300k on it. The guy said he’s never had problems with the power train. But what should I look at on the engine other than blow by?
Good question! Look there's a lot of things to look at and for the most part the engine is pretty basic to check out. Check your blow by, make sure it's nothing excessive. Take the oil cap off, flip it upside down and put it over the oil fill hole. If pressure from the blow by pushes it off, it's a no go for sure, you've probably got a cracked piston, broken ring, or an engine that's just worn out. Feel the upper radiator hose when the engine is running, does it have excessive pressure? If it does this could be a sign of a blown head gasket, though that is rare for 7.3's unless they've got a bigger turbo and injectors. Take a look at the intake, and if you can take it off and get a really good look in there. You want the intake side past the filter to look clean. It may have some oil residue, that's normal, but you don't want to see a bunch of dirt and dust in there. Grit that has made its way past the filter acts like sandpaper and will wear out all the engine way quicker. If you see a lot of dirt, just walk away, you may really want the truck, but trust me, there's a better one out there, unless you want to rebuilt the engine of course. Also inspect the turbocharger impeller vanes, if they are mangled the turbo may be bad and need a rebuild. If you can grab the turbo impeller shaft and see if it has some play in it, push in and pull out on the impeller, if it has play in it, your turbo is shot. You can rebuild the turbo, $300 you can do a darn good job at it too, but turbos on OBS trucks are a royal pain, and I mean a royal pain to remove. If you can, start the truck when it is as cold as possible. If it is hard to start, and or smokes white diesel smoke excessively, you probably have glow plug problems. That's not a huge deal, glow plugs are about $10 a piece, with a $40 control solenoid, and if your valve cover gasket/ wiring harness is bad, you're looking at another $100 ish. Does it leak oil? If it does leak out the front, it could be a bad oil cooler, it's $60 to reseal that, and very messy, but not a huge deal. Look at the coolant in the truck, does it have an oily sheen on it? If it does this could be a sign that the injector cups are bad leaking diesel into the coolant. Does the truck sound like it runs smooth? Have a check engine light? If it sounds rough, it could be a bad injector, or if you also have a check engine light it could be the ICP sensor, that's a $250 sensor.
Check out the brakes if you can, this may sound obvious, but they are another $300 ish to replace them all. Check the transmission fluid, best case scenario it should be a bright red color, this is a sign that your transmission is in good shape. If it's burnt, looks brown, be hesitant as the transmission (assuming it's an automatic) is probably on it's last leg and those e4od's aren't cheap. Of course check the AC, make sure that works, I replaced mine for $500 ish doing the work myself, it'll be more if you pay someone to do it of course. The reason I mention all this other stuff is that the truck will nickle and dime you. My truck needed pretty much everything replaced with 343k miles other than the engine and transmission at least.
Bottom line, look at everything on the truck as detailed as you can. Yes you can fix things, but in the end it still costs money and time, ask me how I know, I've spent more money fixing my 97 than I originally paid for it...
If you find anything odd on the truck and don't know what to make of it or you have any other questions, feel free to message me back, best of luck! You won't regret buying a 7.3.
Lol acoustic guitar- nailed it
🤩🤩🤩
Great informative video
And because you took the time with the animation
I'm going to show my two sons
So they can begin to have an idea - how diesel engines work
👍
I have an 02 7.3 van with the 5r110 transmission
Really? I've never heard of a 5r110 behind a 7.3. Do you know if it was added aftermarket? I'd love to have a 5r110 behind my 7.3.
4r100 not 5r110
i have 00 super duty ccsb ans this truck are near too indestructible......i put a ts chip on it.... mod air intake next is the injectors....
Heck yeah, awesome truck! The chip really wakes the truck up, but you know the transmission won't be able to handle the abuse for too long though. I still cringe and cross my fingers every time I put my foot into it; I have no idea how many miles the e4od has on it!
@@caterpillar6nz310 Good deal, yeah I put a 6.0 cooler on my obs as well. I don't pull everyday, so that helps too. I have heard good things about the 5r110's as well. We can always build up our 4r100's/ e4od's after the fact anyway!
Hello Rnddiesel....
The 7.3 powerstroke to me is the end all be all in my book I love it.... though the 6.0 could be an exception.... I'll never own or touch a post emissions diesel. Now onto the platform... I will likely keep the truck for a vveerryy long time.... basically as long as there is someone out there willing to or help to overhaul the motor and restore the body when I need it for another ~400,000+ mi run with er... then I'll continue to drive it hands down. Just to add to what I said already I actually like the 7.3 so much I'd be willing to find a newer body style truck rip out the engine and put the 7.3 in it's place just sayin. Now as far as what you are explaining in this video I want to make it short, sweet and to the point... you mentioned noise as being a ~somewhat problem I like the noise it's a diesel and people who don't like it can wear earplugs or ear muffs lol. Also you mentioned the transmission as being weak which alright I'll go with that but then you said that they can be upgraded to be practically bulletproof which is good because they can be. What throws me is when you say they can't be like that of a modern transmission which is true but not true in some respects.... gear vendors makes overdrive units for this kind of situation which in a way effectively makes the EO4D and 4R100 like a modern transmission. I could go on for a bit longer with other things you mentioned but unfortunately or fortunately, depending on how you look at it lol, I do not feel like typing anymore. I just wanted to throw two cents into the pot.... till next time.
@ Ray Dornbush, I'll second that on the 7.3. I sure hope to be able to hold onto mine for a very long time as well! I think the main issue with keeping our 7.3's on the road 40 years from now is having the proper electronics to run them. Odds are the computers won't last forever and we'll have to resort to some aftermarket variant thereof, but heck I'm sure computers will be pretty darn good in the 50's (2050's haha). Look I like the sound of the old school 7.3 too. The point is not everyone out there is as enthused about noise emissions as we are. It is incredible how quiet the new diesels are though. The technology behind the noise control in pretty ingenious. Regarding he transmission, of course you can upgrade the transmissions. If you look at the features of the new, say 6r140 for the 6.7, it's got a few things the 7.3 transmissions will never have without serious modifications. Sure we can drop an overdrive unit behind them, you can do that to a transmission from 50 years ago too. I could also replace my diesel engine with a jet turbine, or drop a 15 speed behind my 7.3, or buy a new truck etc... The point is I mostly referenced the basic building block of the transmission as not being capable of achieving what a modern transmission can. Most people, unlike us, don't view their old 7.3's as a sentimentally good engine. To most folks, they're old junk trucks at this point, they don't make the power of a modern engine, they're noisy, dirty, and expensive to fix if they break. When you start talking about serious aftermarket, custom work, sure everything goes out the window on performance. Look at the 6r140. It has 6 forward speeds, with 2 overdrives. Essentially it also throws in an extra gear down low before you hit overdrive. This allows the engineers to keep the 6.7 in it's optimized power band for fuel economy or pulling power. Sure go ahead and drop in an overdrive unit, replace the planetary gear sets in the transmission so you get the extra gear like the 6r140, spend some hours tuning everything with two computer's that weren't designed to be interfaced, sure it can be done, but I think at this point, you're already spending way more than the cost of a good used 6.7 psd. Now you've also got a way more complex setup. You've got a separate computer, a separate overdrive unit, an untested gear set that is all more prone to breakage as well. We don't buy 7.3's because they are modern and sophisticated, we buy them because they are simple. By nature, that simplicity comes at the cost of efficiency and optimization. That's something we're fine with since we enjoy our trucks. With the new transmissions you have an entirely different case that is larger, was specifically designed with larger components capable of handling more power, you've got specific spring dampening mechanisms inside that help cope with the 6.7 lugging power. You can't just rebuild that into a 4r100. Also modern transmissions are fully integrated with the engine specifically. They talk to the engine and visa versa if you will. That give's Ford tuner's an unprecedented amount of control. Look at modern computer modeling software and compare it to what they had in the early 90's to design the e40d. Engineers are more able to accurately predict the stress levels in components with our modern analysis software. This allows you to add material to components where its needed, and remove material where it's not needed. You can make the components beefier, and potentially lighter too.
I think you get the gist at this point. Look I love the 7.3 psd platform as much as you, maybe more, but let's not conflict over that haha. In the end we're both preserving 7.3's for the rest of history. Not many people can say that, and I think that's pretty cool. Good conversation sir, talking 7.3's, diesel, truck you name it is fun. Keep that 7.3 going!
-Rnddiesel
@@Rnddiesel Hey what's your email ?Would like to send you video/photos of my truck
@@brucebell7623 It would be awesome to see a video of your truck, could you post a video of it on your channel? The only email I have is my personal one, and I'd like to keep that undisclosed for now.
Great breakdown on the 7.3, well explained and appreciate the insights. Love the 7.3 but it has as said the rest of the truck has its limitations. 1996 with everything manual...
Can split shot injectors be put into idi motors?
Unless you are willing to do some serious modifications that would likely require redesigning the cylinder heads, then no. IDI's and the 7.3 Powerstroke utilize very different injection methods and their injectors are not interchangeable. All powerstroke injectors are significantly larger than IDI injectors too in terms of their physical geometrical size. IDI's have a separate 'injection pump' that supply high pressure fuel to the injectors when it is time for that cylinder to fire. The IDI injectors basically just act like one way valves that let high pressure fuel flow through and they also atomize the diesel fuel upon injection as well. Powerstroke injectors such as the split shot's you're referring to are much more complex. Powerstoke 7.3's don't have true injection pumps, so the injectors act as a mini injection pump and injector all in one. They take high pressure oil and use that in a mini hydraulic cylinder inside the injector, to pressurize the fuel so it can be injected into the cylinder when it is time for it to fire. With that, 7.3 Powerstroke injectors require high pressure oil, at least 500 and up to 3000+ psi to properly operate that the IDI simply doesn't have. Also Powerstroke injectors require electronic control to get them to fire, you'd need to rig up a full fledged engine computer with sensors as well to get them to operate. It would take serious modification to get split shot powerstroke injectors in an IDI, you'd basically need to build a new engine to do so. Heck it might be easier to stick a set of common rail injectors into the IDI. You'd still need a computer to control things and a common rail injection pump, but at least the injectors are closer in size to the idi injectors.
Your pauses in speech reminds me of Obama
I just replaced oil cooler and fuel bowl leak free 94 7.3 now
Glad to hear, I hope it stays leak free for you! I fixed my oil cooler, and luckily my bowl doesn't leak yet, but I think the rear main seal on my truck is starting to weep, oh well!
@@Rnddiesel they usuallydont leak out of the rear main seal... turbo oil leaks will drain via the block and look like rear main
@@dsruddell Yeah, I'd hope that's the case with mine too, but from all the poking around I've done looking for the leaks, my turbo seems to be holding oil just fine. Heck it's leaking around the starter area, do you have any idea of what that could be?
@@Rnddiesel that's the side where the block drain is. I have a 03 6spd and did my clutch earlier this year. My old clutch was so worn it packed the block drain with clutch fibers. I actually changed the clutch because I lost a seal on a hpop line at the head. Instead of draining it filled the bell housing and within a hundred miles or so contaminated my clutch. Had to limp it home. I would try to clean out your engine valley and take a look at the turbo to block mount. Mine is weeping now. 305k miles. The heat will eat the oil seals. If you Google about the block drain someone went to the trouble of making a small copper pipe that bypassed the whole clutch and dumped it straight out the bottom. Not an issue for automatics. I did a South bend clutch and have been happy with it even though they sent me the wrong flywheel bolts and had no idea they changed the pressure plate for my kit. It's been holding up towing a loaded 32ft enclosed car hauler. I really want stock t444e injectors since I have PRM rods. I have a hydra chip and love it. Banks 4" back exhaust with no ebpv and Ford ais intake. Cclb 4wd dually towing at 65-70 I get around 14mpg which isn't horrible for the weight, hills and speed. 4.10 btw
@@dsruddell Thanks for the tips! I'll take a look at mine and clean it off again. I've been in the valley so much to work on the fuel system already! It sounds like you've got a pretty sweet rig. The intake and exhaust will definitely help open up the truck. By the way, do you know what size the stock t444e injectors are? I've got 160cc 0% nozzled injectors with Full Force Diesel tuning. Other than producing clouds of black smoke, I've got no complaints. It runs great with tons of power! You should be good to run a set of stage 1 180cc 0% or 30% injectors even with the powdered metal rods. I'm too worried to really get into the pedal though, my e4od doesn't have the greatest reputation in the world.
Never knew anybody that wanted a quiet 7.3 If they never made that loud crackling diesel sound. It would be sitting in third place with chevy.
Also on a 96 Ford 7.3 with only 46,000 miles what the Powerstroke engine
I dont think they are really very easy to work on myself. I prefer my duramax i have had less issues and more power and no oil leaks. No breakdowns. Ford popped the braided oil lines and pissed oil all over the place, Leaked like a pig, then cracked 3 pistons ruclips.net/video/xnY-mGt113M/видео.html
there you go 892 got ya bud.
Getting closer, thank you so much!
Dad pulled his 25k pound Backhoe around with ours lol going up Colorado mountains
Cool video, a lot of the information that I already knew , but enjoyed listening anyway.
Where did you get the rear bumper?
Good Question! I really don't know the history myself, it was on the truck when I bought it. I've seen a few other OBS trucks with the exact same bumper, and judging by the way the 3/8 inch metal was actually bent rather than cut and welded, I'd say it was manufactured by some company for a while. It doesn't have any markings on it either to indicate what brand it is though. It has definitely saved my truck in a couple rear end collisions already!
smart kid. I have 2 7.3.. might get more lol.. I feel like there gunna keep value or go up.
Thank you, I appreciate your kind words! I'll second that thought on the 7.3. As long as we take care of them, they can really only go up in value from here. They're great engines with decent power potential, and no emissions controls. Besides, some of them are turning into 'classics' now too!
Won't stop me from buying another one lol
I've had mine since new 1997 4x4 crewcab. It has a programmer on it and I'm quite happy with power and the fact its paid for. Only 188k miles and I can't really tell much difference in it from when it was new. The doors need new strikers and seals need replaced. Windows are units are getting weak. I've replaced wire harnesses under valve covers, of course the heater core in fuel filter housing will always be an issue, replaced the air filter with a huge 18 wheeler one, putting new shocks helped alot. My interior need some attention. I plan on doing most of it because you can't find as anyone these days to trust not to break 10 other thing while fixing that one. You are very well read and should continue on making videos. Great Job and hope to see more in future.
Thank you so much for your compliments, it means a lot to me! I think it's awesome that you still have your truck after all these years, not many people can say that. 188k is also very low on miles too! I'm sure you've heard it before, but don't sell the truck! Heck my truck, as worn out as it is, I wouldn't even think about selling it. I get what you mean about the interior falling apart. I've tried epoxy, glue, and plastic welding, but it always still breaks. The next move is to try fiberglass, hopefully that'll reinforce the old door panels and keep the thing from rattling like a can of marbles. It's too bad no-one makes large replacement interior door parts for these trucks, a new dash would definitely be nice. I'll definitely keep up with the videos, so keep an eye out for them!
You know your stuff. Whatever your doing keep it up. Perfect it and run with it. I watch alot of RUclips and you are impressive. Plus beyond your years in maturity and communication skills in this day and age. You know how to resonate which is really a gift. I'll admit alot of what you talked about was over my head but I enjoyed listening to you describe it. Dont forget to be alittle silly. It breaks up the fact we are talking about nuts and bolts.
@@hhowlerin Hey to both you guys I also have 97, crew cab 7.3 ,230,000 miles .
Truck body super clean, had some suspension,engine work done In the past year. $8,000 dollars worth.
Every where i go ,people who know and don't know these tricks give me thumbs up.
I luv it and will keep it for ever.smfh.
I was told any one of the major issues with Dodge or Ford right now would be more that what I could totally pay someone to swap my entire engine for. I'm seeing a quick shift in mechanical cost with all the added sensors and computers. We may have the last dependable long lasting truck ever made. I rode in a King Ranch 2018 recently. They are great but totally tech now. Seats weren't as comfortable as they should be in that price range.
The electronics on the 7.3 powerstroke dont feel like a big deal till you have a problem that leaves you stranded and costs big $. Switched to an idi. I dont care about speed I like the mechanical reliability personally.
Love my 93 turbo idi!
I'm for 73 IDI and they're not that noisy kid 84 + 89 + 91 + 1990 + 85
Congrats on the 96 Powerstroke! Only 46k miles, that's unbelievable. You sure got a gem there. I'll second that on the 6.9 and 7.3 idi engines. They are definitely quieter. A friend of mine has a later model gm 6.5 idi with the ds4 pump, and it is really weird, that truck is way quieter than my 7.3 powerstroke. I don't know why idi's are so much quieter, perhaps it has something to do with extra cast iron around the swirl ports absorbing more of the noise? Idi's definitely have a unique sound for sure.
I think it's awesome that you've had so much experience with the idi's. Do you have a whole fleet of them?
We have a 99 7.3 in the family since new...it has 210k miles and never leaked a drop.
thats why now any vehicle has manual shift opinion in there automatics for people like us want shift gears and to many dont know how fix manual trans or to drive them thats also why heavy duty side wend to auto shift low coast of repairs from people breaking transmissions or clutches they have for round 15 years now maybe longer where theyll slowy enter douse it and theres differnt verses of them to...yes theres are kinds of automatics that use clutches in cars at less not sure on the trucks
Good point! At the end of the day though, nothing quite beats the real thing. Sure you can have an automatic where you can shift gears, but there's something so satisfying when you have the control to smoothly engage the clutch. For better or worse, a modern automatic transmission can shift way quicker than you or I can, and probably get you comparable fuel mileage by optimizing the gearing.
@@Rnddiesel true but its nice cruising or haul butt shifting gears lol ; )
@@homecyber32283 Absolutely!