Damn that really sucks! I’m sorry to hear this. Get it sorted out and don’t go crazy with the build. My buddy and I were out this past weekend we both have boosted cars but nothing crazy around 600/700 to the wheels. We were thinking about upping the power but both said you know what I’m good where we are. Pump gas, beat the shit out of it and mostly stock drivetrain parts and doesn’t break.
Man I hate that happened. A lot of time and work involved. Much more when tight fit for everything. Install and then taking it back out. Seems this is a machining problem more than likely. I will stay tuned to see the prognosis. Good luck and hang in there.
This sucks bro. I'm sorry you gotta deal with this. On the brite side, the car is absolutely INSANE. You'll get it sorted hopefully without costing you a small fortune. This is the first vid of yours I've seen, hoping you'll keep us updated? Where are you located?
Wow that sux so bad. I'm scared of the same thing. I am doing a Ls3/6L80E swap in a 03'Crown Vic Police Interceptor. It's a project with my grandkids. I am building the engine myself. Block is done and I am working on the heads. I'm replacing everything. The crank is used but it was a 40k mile crank that just needed light polishing. I think untill I get a few thousand miles on ut, I will be sick at my stomach. Lol. I've got 4 grand in the engine with machine work and buying all new parts. It's a N/a build with a BTR RedHot cam. Not going for all out max power. Street car with an occasional track day. Burnouts and ice cream lol. Maybe a few red light to red light lol.
I’ve heard at least three things that could contribute to the problems none more than not replacing all the dry sump parts, it’s not just a money grab there’s a reason it’s replaced when this is done under warranty in these cars you will never clean those out completely
@@BryanYarnell well, normally I would agree. However. The engine did not fail prior to…..all I was doing was a piston swap to a high compression setup and getting rid of forced induction to convert the car to road course duty, there was no debris in it and if there was, the cam bearings would’ve gotten ate up. There was machining debris left in the lower passages and that is why the machine shop is going in with me to redo the machine work and new bearings.
@@HorsepowerRxFL glad to hear they’re standing behind it. I had a buddy that had Thompson motorsports build a motor twice and both were junk. I was hoping you didn’t use that same machine shop.
metal in oil in a new engine is not uncommon , thats alot of metal , and low oil pressure , i would look at the oil pump , and pickup , did the seal on the pickup and the pump get damaged or forgotten ??? double check all the clearances and the cam bearings , did the machine shop clean the block and crank correctly did they leave metal in oil galleys ?, and check the main bearings , are the oil holes in correct position , and are they correct bearings ? seen instances were bearings are not correct and blocking oil holes in crank ?? was engine machined correctly ? line honed ? block bored with correct fixture , to keep block square , be picky about your machine shop not all are created equal , there are machine shops and then there are good machine shops , if all else fails , change machine shops , second opinion ?? or buy a drop in crate engine . im betting that its a oil starvation issue , pump bad or not picking up the oil or oil pressure bleeding off somehow .
So you mentioned the lifters were stored in oil i think you said, so they were used from the previous build correct? Was the parts for the dry sump pump also used? Was the crank end play what caused the bearings to fail? If you got there ultimately what do you think the deciding factor was in the failure after 7 minutes?
@@freethinkingamerican80 Yes they were reused. Less than 1500. Prior setup had no failure. Oil pan was reused, but washed, oil tank and oil lines reused but washed, then all were flushed/filtered with brand new oil and disposed prior to touching engine. Dry sump Oil pump new and feeler gauges on install. Oil cooler lines new and flushed. Oil cooler flushed. I will have an update likely Saturday night for everyone. I am disassembling the rotating assembly with the machine shop and doing failure analysis.
@@freethinkingamerican80 Will do, but until I have all of the facts and all parties involved, I won’t make the claims of what I strongly feel happened. I’ll upload a video Saturday night/Sunday AM. 🤘🏻
How did you check endplay with the crank installed in the engine with the complete rotating assembly, clutch, drive line, trans etc still installed???? Who installed the oil pump, did you pre-lube it, did you shim it? Did you prime the engine before you started it, and BIG FYI NEVER NEVER EVER let a brand new engine Idle, especially on initial start up with the incorrect Tune, your just begging for problems.. more questions than answers, im pretty sure this will end in installer error, .assuming .010 thrust is correct (which i highly doubt) unless is ate the main saddle, or into the rod sides, shouldn’t really be an issue with an LS engine.
@@7.0SLO this current build is Heavily Ported ls3 heads BTR 400 NA V2 cam; similar to GPI ss4 DSS racing pistons +6cc dome 4” stroke crank LS7 dry sump K1 with k1 rods 4.040 bore, dowel pinned main caps and arp hardware BTR trinity intake manifold and ported stock TB Kooks long tubes and X pipe 850 FIC injectors and fore triple pump -10 feed
New here.. but damnit man.. that's awful... I daily a 68 Dart.. I live car's etc.. Have always wanted a Vette... Someday a C5 big wish would be the C6.. Cheers from Southern California 🇺🇸..
First off, are you sure that cam profile is for ROAD COURSE? The duration on that lobe sounds like some drag stuff. The C6Z is a known thing, and although you might be a good mechanic i would have just taken the engine out and sent it to the dudes that have been building these cars for the last ten years or more successfully. That engine is a KNOWN THING in motorsports. 10k aint bad when you are hammering on that engine season after season. I am sorry to hear this, and this is just my two cents worthless advice after the fact.
Sorry guy. This engine is not oiling. Those bearings and even the oil pump look bad. Maybe one of the 2 front press in galley plugs is missing, or the barbell is in backwards. Lucky you caught it before it ate everything.
@@VitoF111 everything had oil when taking it apart, the barbell was in, I borescoped it, freeze plug was in the front as well. The lifters and rockers got oil. The bearings were all lubricated, I believe there to be debris from machining in the oiling passages & clearances not set correct. Will confirm Saturday. Nothing was too damaged. I did order the billet barbell as well for this…third round.
I don't know how i landed here, but it sounds like your def not having fun, and this is a constant money and time pit. Save your sanity, just throw in a stock 5.3 with a cam and springs with a power adder and enjoy it. They will destroy 85% of cars at the track anyhow.
Damn that really sucks! I’m sorry to hear this. Get it sorted out and don’t go crazy with the build. My buddy and I were out this past weekend we both have boosted cars but nothing crazy around 600/700 to the wheels. We were thinking about upping the power but both said you know what I’m good where we are. Pump gas, beat the shit out of it and mostly stock drivetrain parts and doesn’t break.
Thanks for sharing brother! Literally dropping my ls7 off at the machine shop Friday.
Man thats heartbreaking, ive been watching your stuff for a while.
Bad bottom build.
Tolerances were blown out the gate. Good call trusting your gut!
🇺🇸🏁🏴☠️
Man I hate that happened. A lot of time and work involved. Much more when tight fit for everything. Install and then taking it back out. Seems this is a machining problem more than likely. I will stay tuned to see the prognosis. Good luck and hang in there.
This sucks bro. I'm sorry you gotta deal with this. On the brite side, the car is absolutely INSANE. You'll get it sorted hopefully without costing you a small fortune. This is the first vid of yours I've seen, hoping you'll keep us updated? Where are you located?
Wow that sux so bad. I'm scared of the same thing. I am doing a Ls3/6L80E swap in a 03'Crown Vic Police Interceptor. It's a project with my grandkids. I am building the engine myself. Block is done and I am working on the heads. I'm replacing everything. The crank is used but it was a 40k mile crank that just needed light polishing. I think untill I get a few thousand miles on ut, I will be sick at my stomach. Lol. I've got 4 grand in the engine with machine work and buying all new parts. It's a N/a build with a BTR RedHot cam. Not going for all out max power. Street car with an occasional track day. Burnouts and ice cream lol. Maybe a few red light to red light lol.
Did you seat the thrust bearing after you set the crank??? Damn that sucks man, sorry for your issues, hopefully u get her figured out soon
Is that the LEVEL 7 c10 back there that i see???
I’ve heard at least three things that could contribute to the problems none more than not replacing all the dry sump parts, it’s not just a money grab there’s a reason it’s replaced when this is done under warranty in these cars you will never clean those out completely
@@BryanYarnell well, normally I would agree. However. The engine did not fail prior to…..all I was doing was a piston swap to a high compression setup and getting rid of forced induction to convert the car to road course duty, there was no debris in it and if there was, the cam bearings would’ve gotten ate up. There was machining debris left in the lower passages and that is why the machine shop is going in with me to redo the machine work and new bearings.
@@HorsepowerRxFL glad to hear they’re standing behind it. I had a buddy that had Thompson motorsports build a motor twice and both were junk. I was hoping you didn’t use that same machine shop.
I'm really sorry this happened, if you don't mind, who built the short block?
metal in oil in a new engine is not uncommon , thats alot of metal , and low oil pressure , i would look at the oil pump , and pickup , did the seal on the pickup and the pump get damaged or forgotten ??? double check all the clearances and the cam bearings , did the machine shop clean the block and crank correctly did they leave metal in oil galleys ?, and check the main bearings , are the oil holes in correct position , and are they correct bearings ? seen instances were bearings are not correct and blocking oil holes in crank ?? was engine machined correctly ? line honed ? block bored with correct fixture , to keep block square , be picky about your machine shop not all are created equal , there are machine shops and then there are good machine shops , if all else fails , change machine shops , second opinion ?? or buy a drop in crate engine . im betting that its a oil starvation issue , pump bad or not picking up the oil or oil pressure bleeding off somehow .
No track in your area?
So you mentioned the lifters were stored in oil i think you said, so they were used from the previous build correct? Was the parts for the dry sump pump also used?
Was the crank end play what caused the bearings to fail? If you got there ultimately what do you think the deciding factor was in the failure after 7 minutes?
@@freethinkingamerican80 Yes they were reused. Less than 1500. Prior setup had no failure.
Oil pan was reused, but washed, oil tank and oil lines reused but washed, then all were flushed/filtered with brand new oil and disposed prior to touching engine. Dry sump Oil pump new and feeler gauges on install. Oil cooler lines new and flushed. Oil cooler flushed.
I will have an update likely Saturday night for everyone. I am disassembling the rotating assembly with the machine shop and doing failure analysis.
@@HorsepowerRxFL please keep us updated
@@freethinkingamerican80 Will do, but until I have all of the facts and all parties involved, I won’t make the claims of what I strongly feel happened. I’ll upload a video Saturday night/Sunday AM. 🤘🏻
How did you check endplay with the crank installed in the engine with the complete rotating assembly, clutch, drive line, trans etc still installed????
Who installed the oil pump, did you pre-lube it, did you shim it?
Did you prime the engine before you started it, and BIG FYI NEVER NEVER EVER let a brand new engine Idle, especially on initial start up with the incorrect Tune, your just begging for problems.. more questions than answers, im pretty sure this will end in installer error,
.assuming .010 thrust is correct (which i highly doubt) unless is ate the main saddle, or into the rod sides, shouldn’t really be an issue with an LS engine.
I will elaborate everything on Monday.
another setback but it could be worse (dropping a valve). what are the specs on your build?
@@7.0SLO this current build is
Heavily Ported ls3 heads
BTR 400 NA V2 cam; similar to GPI ss4
DSS racing pistons +6cc dome
4” stroke crank LS7 dry sump K1 with k1 rods
4.040 bore, dowel pinned main caps and arp hardware
BTR trinity intake manifold and ported stock TB
Kooks long tubes and X pipe
850 FIC injectors and fore triple pump -10 feed
New here.. but damnit man.. that's awful...
I daily a 68 Dart..
I live car's etc..
Have always wanted a Vette... Someday a C5 big wish would be the C6.. Cheers from Southern California 🇺🇸..
First off, are you sure that cam profile is for ROAD COURSE? The duration on that lobe sounds like some drag stuff. The C6Z is a known thing, and although you might be a good mechanic i would have just taken the engine out and sent it to the dudes that have been building these cars for the last ten years or more successfully. That engine is a KNOWN THING in motorsports. 10k aint bad when you are hammering on that engine season after season. I am sorry to hear this, and this is just my two cents worthless advice after the fact.
Sorry guy. This engine is not oiling. Those bearings and even the oil pump look bad. Maybe one of the 2 front press in galley plugs is missing, or the barbell is in backwards. Lucky you caught it before it ate everything.
@@VitoF111 everything had oil when taking it apart, the barbell was in, I borescoped it, freeze plug was in the front as well. The lifters and rockers got oil. The bearings were all lubricated, I believe there to be debris from machining in the oiling passages & clearances not set correct. Will confirm Saturday. Nothing was too damaged. I did order the billet barbell as well for this…third round.
@@VitoF111 cam bearings also look out of round.
I don't know how i landed here, but it sounds like your def not having fun, and this is a constant money and time pit. Save your sanity, just throw in a stock 5.3 with a cam and springs with a power adder and enjoy it. They will destroy 85% of cars at the track anyhow.
LS7’s suck anyways.
@@C6nroofing it’s not an LS7 anymore. It’s a 410” stroker
Yea im not a fan of stock LS7’s either
good, love to see it
enjoy wasting your time on that POS of a go-cart
@@the__black__box 🤣🤣