Helloo! :) I hope this video could be of any use to you. If you have any questions left, feel free to leave them in the comments. Also thank you so much to Skillshare for sponsoring this video. The first 500 people to use my link skl.sh/teocrawford08241 will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare premium! Wishing you a lovely week!
To my beginner self, remember that that when Teo says "shadow", what he meant by this is the average shadow area and not the darkest and completely blackest part of shadow. Expose for that "grey" shadow and not the blackest shadow.
Ohhh true! I didn't think that this would be confusing, so thank you for adding this point. Correct. The darkest parts of an image are usually referred to as the "Blacks". If you imagine a picture has brightness levels from 0% (Black) to 100% (White), I'd say that roughly 0%-15% are the Blacks. 15%-40% are the shadows. 40%-60% are the midtones. 60%-85% are the highlights. And 85%-100% are the whites. These are not official numbers of any sort, just rough estimates of what I think is usually referred to when these terms are used :)
Me watching this even though i dont even do film photography, but digital, Theo s channel has motivated me to at least, work harder and give my photos that film look in Lightroom. Then, i found my grandfathers old film camera, luckily its still working and ill be trying it out so these kind of videos help. Thanks Theo, cheers!
I had a group of friends who where photographers and our drinking game was we would walk around a you had to without a meter pick a exposure and if you got it right they had to buy you a beer
Thank you so much for your videos! I am about to dip my toe in film photography, bought a Minolta Hi-Matic AF for 40 EUR today and I am picking up two rolls of Fujicolor 200 tomorrow. I am glad you explain even things like '1 stop' in the context of light and exposure since many other resources just tell you to overexpose by 1 stop without actually explaining what that means; that's not to say they are doing anything wrong, I am just glad there are resources like your videos which cater to the utmost beginners like myself.
Right now your videos just hit the right spot. I am working on my final project of my studies and really love your calm and inspirational style. It is realy motivating to keep going with my own projects. Thank you so much. Additional to the video - your explanation helped actually a lot! I am really excited to go out and shoot more fiilm! :)
Thank you for this, I have this app on the rec of many YT’ers just needed a simple “how to” most my cameras don’t have functioning light meters so it’s great to watch this.
Super helpful! Love your work so much. Yesterday I got my first 2 rolls of film back from the lab and was looking for a video about this exactly. Thanks so much! 🙏
Hello! Thank you for the detailed introduction in your video! Exposure is really important for anyone who wants to shoot film well. I've recently started learning metering techniques because I began shooting slide film. I recommend that people who want to meter with a light meter app choose one that includes a spot metering mode. It helps you determine the exposure settings in the highlights and shadows with just one tap on the screen.
@@LouisaSimoneI use the iOS system, and I have tried Lightme, Luxilux, and Pocket Light Meter. All of them work well, and I think the only difference is the user interface. You can choose the one you like.
Cheers dude! Really enjoyed this and found it very useful. I've recently been struggling with 'blown out skies'... this i feel may help ☺️ All the best.
Hi Teo, great video, nice to get some insight on how you meter for your exposures. One thing has me confused though. Regardless of the light meter you are using (internal one in the camera, an external one or an app): when you are metering for an exposure with the iso value on your meter set to the same value as your film, doesn’t that automatically mean you are shooting your film at box speed? I don’t really see why this would only apply to the internal light meter. 🤔
Am I the only one that rolls around dual weilding my film and digital camera? I use whatever settings my digital camera uses. I get pretty good results. I've only ever gotten two photos that didn't come out. I believe that's because I tried using the full auto settings on my film camera.
To be honest, I'm not very interested in it. I just love 35mm so much, I'm so very content with it, that I don't see the point in investing in medium format gear in my particular case.
Hi! That's something I've been working on recently. The last two presets I published on Patreon work on LR mobile too and every new preset coming out every month also works on both, however the older ones not yet. I'm working on updating them, so that once done all presets are compatible with PC and mobile :)
Great video and very informative, when doing the exposure do you use also use the exposure compensation in certain situations? How and when to use it? In a digital camera it’s much easier to tell since you’re literally looking at the screen and see the changes live when moving the exposure compensation but not that simple when using a film camera, I have a canon new f-1 the light meter works fine as is usually I just shoot in aperture priority mode, but in tricky lighting conditions I would like to know how to use the exposure compensation dial on it. Thanks
@@WilliamCrespo The exposure compensation dial just indicates the stops you’re changing. So If you set it to -1 you’re underexposing by 1 stop. That’s like using shooting at f/8 instead of f/5.6. So vice versa, when shooting at +1 you’re overexposing by one stop. Like shooting at f/4 instead of f/5.6🤝
Do you do adjustments do your exposures in lightroom? Film generally has a higher dynamic range than our phones and computers that display Rec 709 (which is only 7 Stops). I'm new to film photography, I shoot on a Ektar H35 (which is locked at 1/100 and f9.5) and my country has very strong sunlight so I only shoot with 200 ISO film and every picture is always overexposed and I always have to bring the curves very low to get a properly exposed image.
Well said. I’ve stopped saying over and under exposing and now say exposing “brighter” or “darker”. You should definitely do a deep dive on incident VS reflective metering and zone system stuff
Well the best way is to scan your film yourself, in which case you'll be using some conversion software. I personally use the Lightroom plugin called Negative Lab Pro, so I use the sliders in Negative Lab Pro to recover the highlights. If you're getting lab scans it's tricky because every lab has their own way of editing. So some will recover the highlights and others might not :/ That is why I scan myself :)
If I shot portra 400 at 800 to be able to shoot higher shutter speeds do I just need the lab to develop my film at 800 as opposed to the 400 box speed ? Cheers
You can do that, but mind you, as far as I know, pushing film will cause a different result (I think it's more contrasty than shooting and developing the film at the box-ISO, not sure though)
I have a Canon AE-1 and it's internal light meter is great, but can be tricky because it lists every aperture through the viewfinder, do you have any tips for how to shoot iso 400 film in bright daylight? Do I just lock my aperture at 12-16 and call it a day, or can I change my box speed higher so I can shoot at lower aperture? And if I shoot iso 400 film on iso 200 box speed AND over expose with my light meter (setting aperture to 11 when it calls for 16), will my photos be toast? Thanks for your videos Teo!
Hmm I'm afraid I don't really understand the stated problem. But when it comes to shooting ISO 400 film on bright days I usually shoot with something like f/5.6 and 1/500th. So if I want to close the aperture down one stop to f/8, I have to compensate that with my shutter speed and set it to 1/250. Basically the lower the f-stop is, the brighter the image becomes, thus you'll need to compensate with a higher shutter speed.
I have a crippling fear of just getting no photo on my film so i always over expose and push the film when i do developing. The results are... Alright i guess
Hi, I have been using the same app you recommended but it gives me a reading of f1.8 every time for every scene. Am I doing something wrong or is there more to the app?
![[DOKKAN BATTLE] Worldwide Campaign Announcement Video Part 2!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JpT5Voak6WA/mqdefault.jpg)
Helloo! :) I hope this video could be of any use to you. If you have any questions left, feel free to leave them in the comments.
Also thank you so much to Skillshare for sponsoring this video. The first 500 people to use my link skl.sh/teocrawford08241 will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare premium!
Wishing you a lovely week!
To my beginner self, remember that that when Teo says "shadow", what he meant by this is the average shadow area and not the darkest and completely blackest part of shadow.
Expose for that "grey" shadow and not the blackest shadow.
Ohhh true! I didn't think that this would be confusing, so thank you for adding this point. Correct. The darkest parts of an image are usually referred to as the "Blacks". If you imagine a picture has brightness levels from 0% (Black) to 100% (White), I'd say that roughly 0%-15% are the Blacks. 15%-40% are the shadows. 40%-60% are the midtones. 60%-85% are the highlights. And 85%-100% are the whites. These are not official numbers of any sort, just rough estimates of what I think is usually referred to when these terms are used :)
I think metering on blackest shadow is still fine for negatives. For slide... well probably it doesn't always work nicely.
Instructions unclear. Camera is now cooked well done.
Me watching this even though i dont even do film photography, but digital, Theo s channel has motivated me to at least, work harder and give my photos that film look in Lightroom. Then, i found my grandfathers old film camera, luckily its still working and ill be trying it out so these kind of videos help. Thanks Theo, cheers!
I had a group of friends who where photographers and our drinking game was we would walk around a you had to without a meter pick a exposure and if you got it right they had to buy you a beer
sunny 16 bro
I just got my first film camera this week and am planning to shoot my first roll this weekend. All of your videos have been really helpful!
Love how considerate u are towards beginners! Great video!
Teo your b-roll is amazing as well as explaining and sharing your experiences with us is story like. Much love from Alaska 👏
Thank you so much for your videos! I am about to dip my toe in film photography, bought a Minolta Hi-Matic AF for 40 EUR today and I am picking up two rolls of Fujicolor 200 tomorrow. I am glad you explain even things like '1 stop' in the context of light and exposure since many other resources just tell you to overexpose by 1 stop without actually explaining what that means; that's not to say they are doing anything wrong, I am just glad there are resources like your videos which cater to the utmost beginners like myself.
Love you teo been watching you for a while KEEP GOING
Right now your videos just hit the right spot. I am working on my final project of my studies and really love your calm and inspirational style. It is realy motivating to keep going with my own projects. Thank you so much.
Additional to the video - your explanation helped actually a lot! I am really excited to go out and shoot more fiilm! :)
Very useful and high quality content. Keep moving Teo!🚀🚀
Love the color grade, your voice, composing of the shots, beautiful video 😍
Thank you for this, I have this app on the rec of many YT’ers just needed a simple “how to” most my cameras don’t have functioning light meters so it’s great to watch this.
I really enjoy your videos. Can you narrate everything in my life. I really enjoy your voice, accent, and cadence.
Super helpful! Love your work so much. Yesterday I got my first 2 rolls of film back from the lab and was looking for a video about this exactly. Thanks so much! 🙏
Hello! Thank you for the detailed introduction in your video! Exposure is really important for anyone who wants to shoot film well. I've recently started learning metering techniques because I began shooting slide film. I recommend that people who want to meter with a light meter app choose one that includes a spot metering mode. It helps you determine the exposure settings in the highlights and shadows with just one tap on the screen.
Good tip! Do you have a favorite app you recommend for this?
@@LouisaSimoneI use the iOS system, and I have tried Lightme, Luxilux, and Pocket Light Meter. All of them work well, and I think the only difference is the user interface. You can choose the one you like.
Cheers dude! Really enjoyed this and found it very useful. I've recently been struggling with 'blown out skies'... this i feel may help ☺️ All the best.
Thank you
Amazing video Teo!
Awesome video. Helped a lot!
Thank you Teo, very clear 😁👍
great explanation!
I really hope your eye is fine! Thanks for the entertaining video as always.
Ohh don't worry. I've been spending too much time editing, so my eyes looks a little rough sometimes :)
Hi Teo, great video, nice to get some insight on how you meter for your exposures. One thing has me confused though. Regardless of the light meter you are using (internal one in the camera, an external one or an app): when you are metering for an exposure with the iso value on your meter set to the same value as your film, doesn’t that automatically mean you are shooting your film at box speed? I don’t really see why this would only apply to the internal light meter. 🤔
Beautiful ❤ love from Shanghai
Am I the only one that rolls around dual weilding my film and digital camera?
I use whatever settings my digital camera uses. I get pretty good results.
I've only ever gotten two photos that didn't come out. I believe that's because I tried using the full auto settings on my film camera.
I do have one question, will you ever try medium format or is it something you are not that interested in?
To be honest, I'm not very interested in it. I just love 35mm so much, I'm so very content with it, that I don't see the point in investing in medium format gear in my particular case.
Hi Teo! Love your work. Quick question, do your Lightroom presets also work with Lightroom mobile?
Hi! That's something I've been working on recently. The last two presets I published on Patreon work on LR mobile too and every new preset coming out every month also works on both, however the older ones not yet. I'm working on updating them, so that once done all presets are compatible with PC and mobile :)
How do you meter at low light like at night. Really loved your video where you used Cinestill and Cyberpunk films
@@yesera8284 The same way🤔
Great video and very informative, when doing the exposure do you use also use the exposure compensation in certain situations? How and when to use it? In a digital camera it’s much easier to tell since you’re literally looking at the screen and see the changes live when moving the exposure compensation but not that simple when using a film camera, I have a canon new f-1 the light meter works fine as is usually I just shoot in aperture priority mode, but in tricky lighting conditions I would like to know how to use the exposure compensation dial on it. Thanks
@@WilliamCrespo The exposure compensation dial just indicates the stops you’re changing. So If you set it to -1 you’re underexposing by 1 stop. That’s like using shooting at f/8 instead of f/5.6.
So vice versa, when shooting at +1 you’re overexposing by one stop. Like shooting at f/4 instead of f/5.6🤝
@@teocrawford sounds good, I will keep that in mind, thanks for replying, your channel is great 👍🏽
3 videos so close to each other. We're eating well!
Do you do adjustments do your exposures in lightroom?
Film generally has a higher dynamic range than our phones and computers that display Rec 709 (which is only 7 Stops).
I'm new to film photography, I shoot on a Ektar H35 (which is locked at 1/100 and f9.5) and my country has very strong sunlight so I only shoot with 200 ISO film and every picture is always overexposed and I always have to bring the curves very low to get a properly exposed image.
Exposing for the shadows many means exposing correctly because that’s where middle great lies for most scenes.
Well said. I’ve stopped saying over and under exposing and now say exposing “brighter” or “darker”.
You should definitely do a deep dive on incident VS reflective metering and zone system stuff
Nutzt du auch Black&White film und wenn ja entwickelst du diese auch selbst?
yoooo banger video
You didn’t even watch it all
Heyyy! How to transfer photos/videos from Pentax Espio 738 35mm Film Point and Shoot Camera to computer
If I intentionally overexpose the film with the intention of "recovering the highlights", how do I exactly do that in Lightroom?
Well the best way is to scan your film yourself, in which case you'll be using some conversion software. I personally use the Lightroom plugin called Negative Lab Pro, so I use the sliders in Negative Lab Pro to recover the highlights.
If you're getting lab scans it's tricky because every lab has their own way of editing. So some will recover the highlights and others might not :/ That is why I scan myself :)
Can a photo taken on film be digitized in DNG so that it can be edited in Lightroom?
If I shot portra 400 at 800 to be able to shoot higher shutter speeds do I just need the lab to develop my film at 800 as opposed to the 400 box speed ? Cheers
Another term is called "expose for the shadows, develope for the highlights"
Hello James, that is correct, ask the lab to push the film 1 stop.
You can do that, but mind you, as far as I know, pushing film will cause a different result (I think it's more contrasty than shooting and developing the film at the box-ISO, not sure though)
I have a Canon AE-1 and it's internal light meter is great, but can be tricky because it lists every aperture through the viewfinder, do you have any tips for how to shoot iso 400 film in bright daylight? Do I just lock my aperture at 12-16 and call it a day, or can I change my box speed higher so I can shoot at lower aperture? And if I shoot iso 400 film on iso 200 box speed AND over expose with my light meter (setting aperture to 11 when it calls for 16), will my photos be toast? Thanks for your videos Teo!
Hmm I'm afraid I don't really understand the stated problem. But when it comes to shooting ISO 400 film on bright days I usually shoot with something like f/5.6 and 1/500th. So if I want to close the aperture down one stop to f/8, I have to compensate that with my shutter speed and set it to 1/250.
Basically the lower the f-stop is, the brighter the image becomes, thus you'll need to compensate with a higher shutter speed.
I have a crippling fear of just getting no photo on my film so i always over expose and push the film when i do developing. The results are... Alright i guess
You mean you are not supposed to overexpose portra400 by 2 stops?
Do some test because 2 stops is a lot, I would consider only 1 stop. As he seems to measure the shadows
Hi, I have been using the same app you recommended but it gives me a reading of f1.8 every time for every scene. Am I doing something wrong or is there more to the app?
best iPhone app is LightMe
You can change the aperture yourself, and the app will give you the corresponding shutter speed