The “cooler” temp lights will have brighter output while the “warmer” temperature of the light tends have less output but will do better with fog or dust in the air because it doesn’t excite the floating particles as much to your eyes, if you want better definition on the objects you’re illuminating you need high CRI (color rendering) LED like 90-95+.
Do any modern light companies publish the CRI of their LEDs? Or is that considered proprietary or too technical for the average user? I couldn't find any with a quick Google search of "Surefire X300 CRI, other than a few general discussion topics. Does it require third-party testing or something?
@@BrassFacts yea temperature isn’t really the right word for it when looking at it, the 6500 kelvin light looks “cooler” and the 4000 Kelvin light looks “warmer” but then numbers are there saying “well AkkShualLy…” 🤷♂️
@@eatsshootsandleavestactica8068 not that I’ve ever seen (they probably never will) and it’s only relatively recently some will include the kelvin ratings. I have a rather old x300 that claims 500 lumens looks in the low 6000k but has a greenish tint (tint bin is a whole other can-o-worms) and a newer x300 “1000” lumen that’s rather white in the 6500k range but both CRI is maybe 70. CRI is determined by the LED itself more than the light temp alone and makes the LED more expensive and generally reserved for photography lighting. They usually just list lumen output and now candela, while no one even mentions lux or tint bin etc.. the old incandescent surefires were like 2-3000k and really low lumen and probably not great CRI. Now most high output lights are 6500k white light mainly for the raw lumen output (which a lot of companies exaggerate greatly) but all those lights will be around the 60-70 CRI range and washes out what you’re looking at. I have a head lamp with 90+ CRI and I didn’t like it at first because things looked weird until I realized what was going on 😂. I hope companies will make high CRI the next big thing because it would probably help a lot with P.i.d. Could be the difference between seeing a cell phone in someone’s hand or a weapon especially at distance. I haven’t attempted to flow a new high CRI led into a weapon light because I’m scared to wreck them but I have a done couple P60 lights with 90+ CRI putting out 300ish lumens and it’s really nice.
This is a sensitivity issue in the cones and rods of our eyes. Rods are significantly better at detecting lower wavelength light, but not color. Cones are better at detecting higher wavelengths and are better with colors. This is why "warmer" lights have generally better contrast and depth of field while "cooler" lights appear brighter at a given lumen or candela intensity but can flatten the image. Cooler lights are generally better from an efficiency standpoint, but shooters preference.
The button is from valhallatactical. I use the valhallatactical XL body (which uses the massive 21700 batteries), ODA nipple switch, and REIN 3.0 head. Really bright, really long run time.
Keep up the content! Love your reviews and insight on some of this equipment. As someone who can't afford to just drop money left and right on some tactical lights/gear your reviews really help!
On the colour of the light, I've found when shooting roos that a more yellow light is a huge help in sub optimal conditions when trying to positively ID the target (making sure it's not a wallaby etc)
I prefer the “yellower” light as well. Gives me more detail and less washout especially indoors with white walls. Just as an example to display the point, on a common paneled interior door with the rectangles you can see it most significantly. White lights wash out the rectangles completely and make the door seem “flat” while yellow still allows visibility of the depth/shadows of the rectangles.
The tail-cap toggle "button" is more or less the same thing we used to do with the basic tail-cap on the Surefire 6P back when a "weapon light" was a surefire flashlight clamped to your rifle using a 1' diameter weaver scope ring. When you set up the tail-cap a certain way you could activate the light by pressing on the side of it, using it like a toggle. However, I like this design as an obviously far better way of doing the same thing while reducing the amount of switching and cables for ease of operation. I would like just the tail-cap assembly to upgrade a couple of my own lights. Hopefully, after the AWLS has been out for a while, HRT will make just the tail-cap available.
@@fury556 Thanks. ETA: Nope. Only compatible with a specific light system (Rein 1.0). If they ever make one for a Surefire Scout maybe I'll pick one up and try it.
@@Cmoth040it’s not only compatible with the Rein, if you have a light body that can use a surefire z68 tail cap then it’s compatible as they have a z68 tail cap version
I really like the Surefire button/remote switch combo because I have a redundant button if the tape switch (or more realistically the cable) fails. The head on the HRT interests me though, as that's bright as all hell. I have a Malkov head already but I do need to assemble a second light.
Great video. I have the Mk3 head in a 18350 Arisaka host and it’s awesome . The beam profile is exceptional and compares to the Modlite v2. The HRT head was $98 and the v2 head was $209. HRT is an incredible value.
I kinda want that nipple switch for other light set ups, I like the pushing inwards motion rather than a tape switch or pushing forward. So far the best activation set up for me is putting an Olight Valkyrie at 12 pm...which comes with the downside of it being an Olight.
I wish you left the livestream up, I only caught a few minutes and was hoping to catch the rest today. Oh well, hopefully I catch the next one in time!
What's your opinion on good rifle light options for home defense? This might be unpopular, but I'm not an operator and the outdoors rarely has couches or the rest of my stuff. Also, I don't think my house has distances that warrant long throw lights but that might be because I'm a poor. Would you ever be worried about too much light for interior situations? Every review I can find seems to focus on lights being used in situations and places I would rarely be with a rifle.
I'm a fan of the streamlight HLX because it has a good mix of throw and spill IMO but you could always go with a streamlight pistol light with a tailcap for maximum spill.
My cheapskate setup has a handheld model of streamlight strapped to the handguard with metal zipties. Total cost ~$40 and it works for doing flashlight things.
Just get a Streamlight hlx and call it good. More than enough output and spill for home defense, but also still usable target ID out to about 100-150yds for me in my experience
They are making a tape switch for it according to HRT, then you can mount it high or flip the body and mount it low if need be and still have easy activation.
Yeah I get that, the ODA is actually what was the deciding factor to me for this because it's less likely to be activated then a tape switch (especially since you can adjust the pressure from easy, medium, to hard) but also easier then a traditional push button, so it was the in between that I had been looking for. But I use a c clamp grip so it's right there for easy activation and I don't have a dbal/other device for NVG on my rifle front end so...thats specifically my use case. Really happy with the full size and the mini so far.
Every time I see the end cap, the scene from Cable Guy where Jim Carrey acting as a lawyer says "Oh Billy" while playing with his nipples flashes in my mind.
Reaching around and touching it with the tip of your finger definitely does open up a lot of possibilities. 😂😂😂 man this looks video is full of the good jokes.
youre gonna be fine, the use of the whitelight and the difference between this and an OKW isn't worth buying more lights. Just train with what you got, you have to remember SF guys out doing the shit are still using 200 lumen insight lights and WMLs. You'd be better of just buying ammo and using what you got the OKW is an amazing unit
@@KayosWONER Sorry, I currently have an OLight, and haven't brought the new light yet. And the Olight IS getting replaced, for safety reasons. (It hasn't been an issue for me YET, but you can only tempt fate for so long.)
Ok, fine, I had to buy one, lol. Great review brother! And I signed up for your subscribe star. Should have joined a while ago, being I have enjoyed your videos for a while now.
Hey any plan to post last night stream? Missed a big part and expected to be able to watch the part i missed this morning. Keep the good work and have a happy new year!
Not saying it's in any rude way. But when a color is more yellow it's a warmer when it's more white or blue it's a cooler. and with warmer lights you have better color recognition of objects. Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure that's right.
yeah, that's what I said no? THis is a warmer (yellow) light vs the most lights that have the blue LED color hence cooler. The question is does it do anything? hard to tell.
I'm sure any high performance light will attract bugs, but boy I was attempting to fix a steel target for NV shooting one night but was using my handheld Streamlight Wedge. Perhaps a warmer tone would get the insects out of my mouth. But for sure, bright white attracts insects of all annoyances.
@Brass If you stuck the HRT head on a Surefire body with a Z68 click-tailcap instead of the tape switch, does it have the same voltage drain? Curious if this is a compatibility thing, or just tape switch thing.
I was just looking at a VZ61 on Atlantic, they're dope. As much as I'd like an original, I just don't think .32 is that easy to acquire, at least locally for me. Might consider the .380 one, or even the 9x18 one, that one's cool too
@@OfficialFedHater Czechpoint USA is the importer I believe (pls don’t quote me on that) I went with .380 cause it’s just easier to obtain. It wasn’t my first choice as a PDW system, but it was a feckin cool choice 😎 having something “more stable” is still better to reach a little further and touch, as compared to my cz p10c (glock19 sized pistol) and yeah it’s not chambered in venerable 9x19 it’s better than nothing. Plus you can find mags for it easy peasy. Unlike UZI pro magazines that are being sold by like one seller on gunbroker 🤮 at scalper prices.
@BrassFacts we have a limited edition *pink* ODA coming soon, would you like to fondle (I mean test / review) one?? 🤣 Great video though, love the humor. Keep up the good work!!
I have an hrt plate carrier. I saw this and thought; I wonder if anyone will vet this product soon for me. Let us know how it holds up long term please sir.
Does the ODA nipple fit on the back of my new Surefire 340DFT? I don't want to run a tape switch and the standard push in tail cap activation isn't super comfortable.
My issue is people already concerned with ngd with pressure pads.. the nipple is cool concept but when at rest and bouncing around off a carrier or vest I can see a huge issue here..
I'm not sure why no company that I know of has just stuck a transistor in the tailcap to handle the actual current and used the tape switch for signal only. You could probably even set it up so that it only used that for the tape switch and had a backup push button that bypassed the tape switch and the transistor entirely. Then again, I'm not an electrical engineer either.
What you are describing is an FET (typically MOSFET) which can handle current-switching without any moving parts. The issue though, is the minimum 10-Amps current handling capacity - one of the requirements when we designed the ODA. Using MOSFET to pass 10 Amp is not necessary as efficient as traditional clicky switches - unless we oversize the MOSFET, it will get hot very quickly; but if we oversize it the tailcap needs to get even bigger. Yes there are some newer, ultra-low-resistent MOSFETS that may do the trick, but they are (relatively) expensive. Long story short, it's not that using solid state switching is impossible, it is just economically not practical.
@@ValhallaTactical Wow thanks for the reply and I appreciate the explanation, especially on a comment that wasn't too well thought out in the first place.
@@makky-kat3719 No problem! And there is nothing wrong with your suggestion, in fact under certain situation (e.g. when lights and lasers started talking to teach other digitally... so one device can electronically activate the other), the usage of MOSFET will essentially be required. You are just ahead of our time!!
yeah, for some reason on this barrel, I had to go through like 3 shims sets to bottom it out. At some point I needed them for another build so I stole the shims and just shoved a washer in. I never ever suppress that gun, so it just acts as a overpriced fh. I suspect I'd get some pretty nutty poi shifts.
You might want to check out the weltool light heads if you’re interested in high candela and high lumen combos. Weltool claims 89k candela and I think ~1200 lumens. I can’t speak to reliability since I only have a few hundred rounds on mine, but performance is pretty amazing for the price. My weltool with an 18350 pretty easily outperforms my okw with an 18650. It seems pretty similar to the rein 2.0s I’ve played with as well, maybe a slightly more concentrated hot spot on the weltool.
it's neat, but for sure a fad When I say fad I don't mean it's bad per say, but probably over represented in the market. This is for sure a NV oriented setup. While giving up basically everywhere else.
@@BrassFacts Thanks. It makes sense and you are actually the only one representing this opinion on the internet. Everybody thinks its amazing for everything, even when they dont own NVG. I find that interesting.
This light will prove popular with the tactical furry community
:(
UWU
"hrt light" this is the tactical girl friend/red it light
No threads for a tail
No need to repeat yourself
You explained the tail nipple thing better than anyone else I've seen. For real though, I didn't know that it did all that.
The “cooler” temp lights will have brighter output while the “warmer” temperature of the light tends have less output but will do better with fog or dust in the air because it doesn’t excite the floating particles as much to your eyes, if you want better definition on the objects you’re illuminating you need high CRI (color rendering) LED like 90-95+.
and then the confusing part is that in "science"
Hotter emissions are blue
and colder are White/yellow
xD
Do any modern light companies publish the CRI of their LEDs? Or is that considered proprietary or too technical for the average user? I couldn't find any with a quick Google search of "Surefire X300 CRI, other than a few general discussion topics. Does it require third-party testing or something?
@@BrassFacts yea temperature isn’t really the right word for it when looking at it, the 6500 kelvin light looks “cooler” and the 4000 Kelvin light looks “warmer” but then numbers are there saying “well AkkShualLy…” 🤷♂️
@@eatsshootsandleavestactica8068 not that I’ve ever seen (they probably never will) and it’s only relatively recently some will include the kelvin ratings. I have a rather old x300 that claims 500 lumens looks in the low 6000k but has a greenish tint (tint bin is a whole other can-o-worms) and a newer x300 “1000” lumen that’s rather white in the 6500k range but both CRI is maybe 70. CRI is determined by the LED itself more than the light temp alone and makes the LED more expensive and generally reserved for photography lighting. They usually just list lumen output and now candela, while no one even mentions lux or tint bin etc.. the old incandescent surefires were like 2-3000k and really low lumen and probably not great CRI. Now most high output lights are 6500k white light mainly for the raw lumen output (which a lot of companies exaggerate greatly) but all those lights will be around the 60-70 CRI range and washes out what you’re looking at. I have a head lamp with 90+ CRI and I didn’t like it at first because things looked weird until I realized what was going on 😂. I hope companies will make high CRI the next big thing because it would probably help a lot with P.i.d. Could be the difference between seeing a cell phone in someone’s hand or a weapon especially at distance. I haven’t attempted to flow a new high CRI led into a weapon light because I’m scared to wreck them but I have a done couple P60 lights with 90+ CRI putting out 300ish lumens and it’s really nice.
This is a sensitivity issue in the cones and rods of our eyes.
Rods are significantly better at detecting lower wavelength light, but not color.
Cones are better at detecting higher wavelengths and are better with colors.
This is why "warmer" lights have generally better contrast and depth of field while "cooler" lights appear brighter at a given lumen or candela intensity but can flatten the image.
Cooler lights are generally better from an efficiency standpoint, but shooters preference.
The button is from valhallatactical. I use the valhallatactical XL body (which uses the massive 21700 batteries), ODA nipple switch, and REIN 3.0 head. Really bright, really long run time.
Keep up the content! Love your reviews and insight on some of this equipment. As someone who can't afford to just drop money left and right on some tactical lights/gear your reviews really help!
On the colour of the light, I've found when shooting roos that a more yellow light is a huge help in sub optimal conditions when trying to positively ID the target (making sure it's not a wallaby etc)
I prefer the “yellower” light as well. Gives me more detail and less washout especially indoors with white walls. Just as an example to display the point, on a common paneled interior door with the rectangles you can see it most significantly. White lights wash out the rectangles completely and make the door seem “flat” while yellow still allows visibility of the depth/shadows of the rectangles.
Ok
Hey Brass, another interesting video. Its been a real treat watch you grow with your content
The tail-cap toggle "button" is more or less the same thing we used to do with the basic tail-cap on the Surefire 6P back when a "weapon light" was a surefire flashlight clamped to your rifle using a 1' diameter weaver scope ring. When you set up the tail-cap a certain way you could activate the light by pressing on the side of it, using it like a toggle. However, I like this design as an obviously far better way of doing the same thing while reducing the amount of switching and cables for ease of operation. I would like just the tail-cap assembly to upgrade a couple of my own lights. Hopefully, after the AWLS has been out for a while, HRT will make just the tail-cap available.
The tail cap is made by Valhalla tactical. Go buy one
@@fury556 Thanks. ETA: Nope. Only compatible with a specific light system (Rein 1.0). If they ever make one for a Surefire Scout maybe I'll pick one up and try it.
@@Cmoth040it’s not only compatible with the Rein, if you have a light body that can use a surefire z68 tail cap then it’s compatible as they have a z68 tail cap version
I just bought an OKW for my rifle to complete the build. This is good to know I can swap heads for the newer light later on
Just installed the AWLS on my block II upper. I have found Unity’s fusion mounts do work with the AWLS for different angled installation
I really like the Surefire button/remote switch combo because I have a redundant button if the tape switch (or more realistically the cable) fails.
The head on the HRT interests me though, as that's bright as all hell. I have a Malkov head already but I do need to assemble a second light.
Great video. I have the Mk3 head in a 18350 Arisaka host and it’s awesome . The beam profile is exceptional and compares to the Modlite v2. The HRT head was $98 and the v2 head was $209. HRT is an incredible value.
I kinda want that nipple switch for other light set ups, I like the pushing inwards motion rather than a tape switch or pushing forward. So far the best activation set up for me is putting an Olight Valkyrie at 12 pm...which comes with the downside of it being an Olight.
I wish you left the livestream up, I only caught a few minutes and was hoping to catch the rest today. Oh well, hopefully I catch the next one in time!
it pushes to subscribe star. The live stream is there such that you can watch it without a substar
I do believe they have a tape switch tail cap coming, as well as a pic rail version in the works (as per one of their vids), so that's nice.
What's your opinion on good rifle light options for home defense? This might be unpopular, but I'm not an operator and the outdoors rarely has couches or the rest of my stuff. Also, I don't think my house has distances that warrant long throw lights but that might be because I'm a poor. Would you ever be worried about too much light for interior situations? Every review I can find seems to focus on lights being used in situations and places I would rarely be with a rifle.
I'm a fan of the streamlight HLX because it has a good mix of throw and spill IMO but you could always go with a streamlight pistol light with a tailcap for maximum spill.
honestly, whatever. They're all good
The streamlight HLX is good, but "budget" but has more than enought for home defense (it's also spill oriented)
My cheapskate setup has a handheld model of streamlight strapped to the handguard with metal zipties. Total cost ~$40 and it works for doing flashlight things.
Just get a Streamlight hlx and call it good.
More than enough output and spill for home defense, but also still usable target ID out to about 100-150yds for me in my experience
@@benb50001 If your rifle setup looks poverty tier, a robber might conclude you have little of value and bug out...
Once again he come down to my cell, another story, another day. He blesses me with his presence
Have you looked into Atibal Illumination lights? For their ultra throw head you have to sign a laser waiver and they have a more flood head.
4:06 $200 for head is standard? I’ve been charging $40 under the queensboro bridge for years!
yeah, inflation man. Charge more, I'm sure your (light) head is worth it
They are making a tape switch for it according to HRT, then you can mount it high or flip the body and mount it low if need be and still have easy activation.
perhaps, I think a better call would just make it work/make a adapter for what already exists, I don't want to buy more proprietary shit
Yeah I get that, the ODA is actually what was the deciding factor to me for this because it's less likely to be activated then a tape switch (especially since you can adjust the pressure from easy, medium, to hard) but also easier then a traditional push button, so it was the in between that I had been looking for. But I use a c clamp grip so it's right there for easy activation and I don't have a dbal/other device for NVG on my rifle front end so...thats specifically my use case. Really happy with the full size and the mini so far.
Every time I see the end cap, the scene from Cable Guy where Jim Carrey acting as a lawyer says "Oh Billy" while playing with his nipples flashes in my mind.
Interesting light. I hadn't heard of it. I got the reign 3.0 and it's pretty dope
Reaching around and touching it with the tip of your finger definitely does open up a lot of possibilities. 😂😂😂 man this looks video is full of the good jokes.
Oh damn! And I had just settled on OKW DF headed weaponlight! Back to the drawing board again!
youre gonna be fine, the use of the whitelight and the difference between this and an OKW isn't worth buying more lights. Just train with what you got, you have to remember SF guys out doing the shit are still using 200 lumen insight lights and WMLs. You'd be better of just buying ammo and using what you got the OKW is an amazing unit
@@KayosWONER Sorry, I currently have an OLight, and haven't brought the new light yet.
And the Olight IS getting replaced, for safety reasons. (It hasn't been an issue for me YET, but you can only tempt fate for so long.)
@@mathewfitzpatrick5645 ohhh yea for sure drop that olight
Will definitely consider this. I just bought a modlite okw and if im not happy ill grab a awls head
Ok, fine, I had to buy one, lol. Great review brother! And I signed up for your subscribe star. Should have joined a while ago, being I have enjoyed your videos for a while now.
I like the idea of being able to take an older flashlight and just upgrade the head
Hey any plan to post last night stream?
Missed a big part and expected to be able to watch the part i missed this morning. Keep the good work and have a happy new year!
Love your reviews man, keep it up
Keep up the great work man! Love your video’s
Im goin8n for it. Thanks for all you do.
The warm Dulcie Tones of Brass Facts. You should do audio books. Good video.
I'm in the market for a new weapons light so keep that content coming !
"AWLS HRT = Awls hurt", as leatherworkers can tell you
well now I can't read it any other way.
Can you show more detailed setups of this head with Surefire bodies and mounts???
Well definitely another option out there glad I came across this!! A little easier on the bank account with some what looks like solid performance!!
That tail cap has me very... excited.
Do you think a direction “D-Pad” nipple for controlling lights and lasers might be in the future of the industry?
mmmm Contra Code.
Vendetta Precision offers a sleek 1913-to-M-LOK adapter that makes this body type a little more versatile. Just a little.
Great light, some guys like that swivel bob tail switch. It has great throw Candelas
It would be nice if they offered a nipple switch that was compatible with surefire switch threads.
yes plz
I want to use this on my tp9
Still holding out for the Zbolt IR illuminator/laser
Looks like it might fit perfect with this light
Ditto or something similar. I already have a white light.
Not saying it's in any rude way. But when a color is more yellow it's a warmer when it's more white or blue it's a cooler. and with warmer lights you have better color recognition of objects. Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure that's right.
yeah, that's what I said no? THis is a warmer (yellow) light vs the most lights that have the blue LED color hence cooler.
The question is does it do anything? hard to tell.
@@BrassFacts lol! Yes I totally miss heard. My bad. Lol
I will be holding out for the Turbo series. SURELY, they will be out any day now.
I'm actually super excited to try this out!
I wonder if there'd be a similar slight performance drop if you used the Arisaka momentary tail cap as there is with the various pressure pads
Great review brother!
I oddly like this compared to what I'm used to. I like the breakdown & comparisons
The Cloud Rein 2.0 switch is controversial? I love it......
it's very lackluster for something you *have* to use.
Good ted talk wrong handed buddy!
I'm sure any high performance light will attract bugs, but boy I was attempting to fix a steel target for NV shooting one night but was using my handheld Streamlight Wedge. Perhaps a warmer tone would get the insects out of my mouth. But for sure, bright white attracts insects of all annoyances.
Enjoying the content! Also liking the watch, what is it ?
Seiko SARB017
What is that awesome shirt. The red black and grey Jammie
I saw this a couple weeks ago. Was thinking it might be nice for the 12.5in build I'm wanting to put together next year for the Mrs.
A solid review. Thanks for the share!!
Never heard of it, interesting concept!
@Brass
If you stuck the HRT head on a Surefire body with a Z68 click-tailcap instead of the tape switch, does it have the same voltage drain?
Curious if this is a compatibility thing, or just tape switch thing.
I dont believe so. It's just the tape switches
Tail caps on the cheaper lights like stream light also take ipx4 to 6 or 7.
Great video, like usual. What optic are you running on your SPR rifle that's being used in the video?
Here I am running Streamlight and Crimson Trace. 😂
Works for my high drag low speed ARs.
Speaking of PDW’s, would you consider a VZ .61 and any of its caliber offerings to be an acceptable PDW?
yeah, I kinda want one
I was just looking at a VZ61 on Atlantic, they're dope.
As much as I'd like an original, I just don't think .32 is that easy to acquire, at least locally for me. Might consider the .380 one, or even the 9x18 one, that one's cool too
@@OfficialFedHater Czechpoint USA is the importer I believe (pls don’t quote me on that) I went with .380 cause it’s just easier to obtain. It wasn’t my first choice as a PDW system, but it was a feckin cool choice 😎 having something “more stable” is still better to reach a little further and touch, as compared to my cz p10c (glock19 sized pistol) and yeah it’s not chambered in venerable 9x19 it’s better than nothing. Plus you can find mags for it easy peasy. Unlike UZI pro magazines that are being sold by like one seller on gunbroker 🤮 at scalper prices.
Aw love you brass ❤️
I dig the seiko alpinist!
watch gang!
@@BrassFacts Seiko is life!
@BrassFacts we have a limited edition *pink* ODA coming soon, would you like to fondle (I mean test / review) one?? 🤣 Great video though, love the humor. Keep up the good work!!
hot. so hot... I mean practical.
As a Ted, I support this talk.
thank you ted
Where did you get the top you’re wearing at 4:25 ? I like the pattern. Great video too!
I have an hrt plate carrier. I saw this and thought; I wonder if anyone will vet this product soon for me. Let us know how it holds up long term please sir.
Does the ODA nipple fit on the back of my new Surefire 340DFT? I don't want to run a tape switch and the standard push in tail cap activation isn't super comfortable.
Good vid sir! Any chance you gonna take a look at the New Streamlight Protac 2.0 RM anytime soon?
yerp
Great video yet again.
Awesome video as always, thanks dude!
My issue is people already concerned with ngd with pressure pads.. the nipple is cool concept but when at rest and bouncing around off a carrier or vest I can see a huge issue here..
Are you rocking a Seiko alpinist? I love mine and thought I saw one in the video lol
I'm not sure why no company that I know of has just stuck a transistor in the tailcap to handle the actual current and used the tape switch for signal only. You could probably even set it up so that it only used that for the tape switch and had a backup push button that bypassed the tape switch and the transistor entirely. Then again, I'm not an electrical engineer either.
What you are describing is an FET (typically MOSFET) which can handle current-switching without any moving parts. The issue though, is the minimum 10-Amps current handling capacity - one of the requirements when we designed the ODA. Using MOSFET to pass 10 Amp is not necessary as efficient as traditional clicky switches - unless we oversize the MOSFET, it will get hot very quickly; but if we oversize it the tailcap needs to get even bigger. Yes there are some newer, ultra-low-resistent MOSFETS that may do the trick, but they are (relatively) expensive. Long story short, it's not that using solid state switching is impossible, it is just economically not practical.
@@ValhallaTactical Wow thanks for the reply and I appreciate the explanation, especially on a comment that wasn't too well thought out in the first place.
@@makky-kat3719 No problem! And there is nothing wrong with your suggestion, in fact under certain situation (e.g. when lights and lasers started talking to teach other digitally... so one device can electronically activate the other), the usage of MOSFET will essentially be required. You are just ahead of our time!!
"Extreme Candella Autsim Circles" 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I’ve been taking HRT but never heard of a flash light before.
Love how they title changed from the better okw to this lol my mod light is still happy people are making better stuff.
I got that tail-cap from Valhalla. I ordered a pre release 3-d printed one then they sent the production one later
Thanks for the support!!
Banger 😊
Nothing against the nipple and it does seem usable for PDWs, but for everything else it just seems like reinventing the wheel. Tape switches are fine.
What a big ole athlon tease 😩😩
How would you reccomend i setup a tape switch on a wood rifle if im not keen on drilling into the grips?
use camo tape
I hear about issues with the modbutton and the surefire pads, but are the Unity hotbuttons still good to go with dual fuel bodies?
Drinking game rules take a shot everytime you hear;
"Nipple"
"Tip"
"Reach Around"
"Head"
speed run, any percent liver failure
Yet another thing to be interested in for my 16-in... Rifle
0:46 is that a crush washer behind your keymo?
yeah, for some reason on this barrel, I had to go through like 3 shims sets to bottom it out. At some point I needed them for another build so I stole the shims and just shoved a washer in. I never ever suppress that gun, so it just acts as a overpriced fh.
I suspect I'd get some pretty nutty poi shifts.
You might want to check out the weltool light heads if you’re interested in high candela and high lumen combos. Weltool claims 89k candela and I think ~1200 lumens.
I can’t speak to reliability since I only have a few hundred rounds on mine, but performance is pretty amazing for the price. My weltool with an 18350 pretty easily outperforms my okw with an 18650. It seems pretty similar to the rein 2.0s I’ve played with as well, maybe a slightly more concentrated hot spot on the weltool.
Its munitionworks now?
correct
The light is on sale from HRT at the moment (Jan 5 2023)... you can get the head alone for $169.
What are the little donuts rings that come with the screws in yhe baggy?
Where did you hire that AZN guy that was shooting? He looked spec tactical.
what is a AZN?
SARB017…good man. 🤙🏼
Bought this and am jerry-rigging it onto my M4
Should I get this or the rein 3.0?
just as I was thinking I need a light on my fighty dmr
What do you think about the Unity fast Combo sofar?
it's neat, but for sure a fad
When I say fad I don't mean it's bad per say, but probably over represented in the market.
This is for sure a NV oriented setup. While giving up basically everywhere else.
@@BrassFacts Thanks. It makes sense and you are actually the only one representing this opinion on the internet. Everybody thinks its amazing for everything, even when they dont own NVG. I find that interesting.
Hey, if we missed the live stream yesterday, will you guys be releasing that?
on substar only.
Thanks
You got this