@@itzzgraham compared to the original yes, just from the sound it’s pretty noticeable. When the wheel is turned full lock left it rubs a little on the casing. Haven’t noticed any downside of having it for 2+ years. The original traxxas one died within weeks of using the car. When I put the gpm parts up front this week I can upload a video
@@itzzgraham ruclips.net/user/shortsjktgFKjKh8A?si=MCji5sOWxuH6O5Ta I’ll kinda do an overview when I swap all the final parts, but it works really well. this is on a nimh battery btw
Nice video and thanks for the information. You said that it bottoms out a lot. I noticed that you have small spring spacers installed just above the springs. I had to install the 8mm in the front and 4 mm in the rear to get the right ground clearance. Then I had to lower the body to reduce the wheel well distance for ascetics. My newer kit came with the spacers. I don't know if older kits came with them but they work. It also provides a stiffer spring rate that I think helps with handling. Mine has yet to bottom out no matter what outdoor surface I use it on.
Also, I had the same problems with stones obstructing the steering hardware. I made a deflector out of several pieces of electrical tape attached to the chassis and surrounding areas of the steering linkage to keep the rocks out. It is working perfectly so far. The tape flexes back so air can still get in for cooling but stones only get in the back rear of the chassis now. It appears to be a cheap and effective solution. I can send you a picture if it helps.
My tires never come off the rim running 3S. And i have exact glue. Good choice.But i use alum rims, i dislike the drift tires. Vxl has enough power to rubber drift. Put 50k or more in both diffs and shred those tires.
Right on man! I have 500k in my rear diff, Same with my slash, I still prefer the plastic drift tires over rubber, counter steering is actually a thing with the drift tires on
My car had 20 million in the front diff because it was a speed car but now that I just drift around my street what should I go back to? I was thinking of using 20m in the rear to lock up that diff but idk what to use on the front might do 50k what do you guys think?
I bought mines in 2021 and fully got to break it in last year. I must say the chassis is great, but I wish there was a tutorial to make it into a RWD a proper way so it can be illegible for drift competitions
@@itzzgraham yes honestly, if someone made a tutorial or a build list on what to do to make the car RWD in a legitimate (safe) way. I would gladly use it for competitions because most of them won’t let you compete in a AWD chassis
@@Swept.vizuals I can make a video on taking out my driveshaft and making the 4tec Rwd, idk how it will drive and I know most definitely no drift competitions would let me enter like that but it might make for a cool video
swap to a redcat 3300 kv motor, has turbo, have a hobby wing esc as well, outta the box is fun, but these cars have a lot of potential, also camber them wheels mister, way more angle.
1 cool thing u can run what battery u want ....yes my friend, u can also run with adapters, there is no difference with no other cars out there, it is all about using an adapter or solder 2 the transmitter is terrible with no adjustability at all, no knob to set the throttle or the steering endpoint unless u go with light, code and a very complex stupid system 3 price point in europe is almost 400 euros for a non programmable esc... any 40 euros hobbywing can run 3s and be fully programmable, why the F should i get this? 4 the servo, as u mentioned, is not the best and for the price is absolutely insulting having plastic gear on suck a powerful system Overall i would never suggest the RTR version to novody, i belive is a nice street basher and with higher ground clearance may be suitable for even rally but a roller version should be the way to go, considering that it costs almost as much a tamiya tt02 kit and the quality and durability is overall far superior!
1 I was just saying it’s 2s and 3s Capable man, 2, you can adjust every single little thing through the TQI module and do it via the Traxxas app on your phone, 3 what do you need to program on the ESC? 4 the traxxas 2075xMetal Gear Servo has metal gears.. although it isn’t the best. It’s a great option if you are just starting out. And it comes stock in this car. I’ve set this car up for drifting and it’s pretty’s durable man, watch some of my crash videos
After owning a 4 Tec for a while I’d say most of the aluminum upgrades are pointless, the way it comes out the box is pretty durable. One piece dog bones bent really easy also the stock ones are fine
That’s up to you guys to decide with the information I showed. Some people might think the problems I listed are nothing, but for some people that stuff could make or break the experience 😎
I appreciate the info. I’m thinking of picking one up very soon. I already purchased a ctsv body for it just waiting to buy the car
Get some plastic drift tires as well man! You won’t regret this purchase it’s so much fun
nice video :) if want higher ride hight put some thicker pretensioners in your springs 😅
I actually want lower ride hight! Thanks man
Savox servo works amazing in my 4tec
The sc-251
Is it powerful man?
@@itzzgraham compared to the original yes, just from the sound it’s pretty noticeable. When the wheel is turned full lock left it rubs a little on the casing. Haven’t noticed any downside of having it for 2+ years. The original traxxas one died within weeks of using the car. When I put the gpm parts up front this week I can upload a video
@@itzzgraham ruclips.net/user/shortsjktgFKjKh8A?si=MCji5sOWxuH6O5Ta I’ll kinda do an overview when I swap all the final parts, but it works really well. this is on a nimh battery btw
Nice video and thanks for the information. You said that it bottoms out a lot. I noticed that you have small spring spacers installed just above the springs. I had to install the 8mm in the front and 4 mm in the rear to get the right ground clearance. Then I had to lower the body to reduce the wheel well distance for ascetics. My newer kit came with the spacers. I don't know if older kits came with them but they work. It also provides a stiffer spring rate that I think helps with handling. Mine has yet to bottom out no matter what outdoor surface I use it on.
Also, I had the same problems with stones obstructing the steering hardware. I made a deflector out of several pieces of electrical tape attached to the chassis and surrounding areas of the steering linkage to keep the rocks out. It is working perfectly so far. The tape flexes back so air can still get in for cooling but stones only get in the back rear of the chassis now. It appears to be a cheap and effective solution. I can send you a picture if it helps.
I had a spare motor and ESC so I have created mine to 4s the thing flies now. But I use rubber tires.
That’s awesome man!! I am one tire change away from hitting 60mph stock gearing when I put grip tires on this thing flys
@@itzzgraham oh yeah once you do the gear ratio upgrade it gets even faster mines hits 75-80
@@joshwebb1493 that’s too fast for me I’ll wreck 😁
Loved you video Graham!!!!
And I love you ❤️😁 thank you for watching
My tires never come off the rim running 3S. And i have exact glue. Good choice.But i use alum rims, i dislike the drift tires. Vxl has enough power to rubber drift. Put 50k or more in both diffs and shred those tires.
Right on man! I have 500k in my rear diff, Same with my slash, I still prefer the plastic drift tires over rubber, counter steering is actually a thing with the drift tires on
My car had 20 million in the front diff because it was a speed car but now that I just drift around my street what should I go back to? I was thinking of using 20m in the rear to lock up that diff but idk what to use on the front might do 50k what do you guys think?
i gotta completely disagree on how your running your drift set up, gotta show you my 4tec lol
Make a video man!!
@@itzzgraham i will!!! ima do a video rn screw it lol
I bought mines in 2021 and fully got to break it in last year. I must say the chassis is great, but I wish there was a tutorial to make it into a RWD a proper way so it can be illegible for drift competitions
I agree man I wish they did 4tec grip and drift racing it would be such a cool class, I can think of a couple competitor cars
@@itzzgraham yes honestly, if someone made a tutorial or a build list on what to do to make the car RWD in a legitimate (safe) way. I would gladly use it for competitions because most of them won’t let you compete in a AWD chassis
@@Swept.vizuals I can make a video on taking out my driveshaft and making the 4tec Rwd, idk how it will drive and I know most definitely no drift competitions would let me enter like that but it might make for a cool video
@@itzzgraham from what I’ve seen people have done it before and the front doesn’t turn.
@@Swept.vizuals hmm I wonder why the driveshaft and the steering linkage is totally different, I might have to try it on camera for myself
swap to a redcat 3300 kv motor, has turbo, have a hobby wing esc as well, outta the box is fun, but these cars have a lot of potential, also camber them wheels mister, way more angle.
ruclips.net/video/rBlcCynchOY/видео.htmlsi=2eEWtK7qx_ifChKt check it out bro it seems to run pretty well
1 cool thing u can run what battery u want ....yes my friend, u can also run with adapters, there is no difference with no other cars out there, it is all about using an adapter or solder
2 the transmitter is terrible with no adjustability at all, no knob to set the throttle or the steering endpoint unless u go with light, code and a very complex stupid system
3 price point in europe is almost 400 euros for a non programmable esc... any 40 euros hobbywing can run 3s and be fully programmable, why the F should i get this?
4 the servo, as u mentioned, is not the best and for the price is absolutely insulting having plastic gear on suck a powerful system
Overall i would never suggest the RTR version to novody, i belive is a nice street basher and with higher ground clearance may be suitable for even rally but a roller version should be the way to go, considering that it costs almost as much a tamiya tt02 kit and the quality and durability is overall far superior!
1 I was just saying it’s 2s and 3s Capable man, 2, you can adjust every single little thing through the TQI module and do it via the Traxxas app on your phone, 3 what do you need to program on the ESC? 4 the traxxas 2075xMetal Gear Servo has metal gears.. although it isn’t the best. It’s a great option if you are just starting out. And it comes stock in this car. I’ve set this car up for drifting and it’s pretty’s durable man, watch some of my crash videos
After owning a 4 Tec for a while I’d say most of the aluminum upgrades are pointless, the way it comes out the box is pretty durable. One piece dog bones bent really easy also the stock ones are fine
Agreed man, the only thing I changed out was the servo horn and housing
@@itzzgraham my stock one is holding up surprisingly, just hit 75 with 35/55 gearing
@@DrewsR6is that smaller ratio?
@@F.B.I.0 that’s the high speed gearing that they recommend on the box
So should I buy it
That’s up to you guys to decide with the information I showed. Some people might think the problems I listed are nothing, but for some people that stuff could make or break the experience 😎
What’s an XVL? 😂
Holy shit bro I posted thsi video awhile ago I can’t believe I didn’t catch that… rookie mistake