Which tip did you find most interesting in this video? [FREE Guide] "Basic Techniques" guide to trail ride with confidence - motocrosshideout.com/basic/
I’m 63 and been riding moderate/difficult rocky trails for about 40 years in the Colorado Rocky Mountains. I’m tired of them and now I prefer fast desert riding. Great info though!
Ha, yeah I get it - they're exhausting physically and mentally if that's all you ride. You've probably ridden all of these trails if you've been riding in Colorado for that long! Thanks for watching :)
I am learning that i can just give it throttle, look a was ahead to pick a line, and trust the bike to just do it's thing as far as going over the rocks goes. It's way better at rocks than I am it seems.
Ha, yep, it's easy to waste a lot of energy forcing the bike to go where we want. It's a lot easier when we use the proper techniques and let the bike do most of the work. Thanks for watching and sharing!
You want a steady momentum which aids balance vs trying to get through it quickly. People can get away with giving it a gutfull of throttle and holding on for dear life. They don't progress that way though and sooner or later will pay for it. Learn to go slower, at a steady pace (maintenance of momentum vs speed) and balance,
@@titaniumquarrion9838 Absolutely. "give it throttle" wasn't supposed to mean pin it. I've done that and it's terrifying. I've also been working on my wrist bouncing all over with the bumps, which is also terrifying and makes me appreciate having two fingers covering the clutch.
We start novice riders with teaching them to stand and learn to control the bike while standing. We teach them to dab while standing to keep weight on the pegs this also keeps traction on the tires. We find this works best in our loose rocky areas of Northern California I hope this helps it seems to here.
The new 6500 closed cartridge forks make my 300 a lot more stable straight or turning in the loose volcanic rock. Open cartridge used to ride lower in the stroke making the bike unstable under compression. I still hate rocks,, but the bike is rock steady.
Hey Kenny, no worries - it's easy to fall into that habit, even for myself! If you have a small area to practice where you can do an oval (2 corners is all), a simple drill I like to teach and use is: -Entering the corner, look ahead to the exit of the corner -By the time you get to the exit, look ahead to the next corner entrance -Repeat until satisfied or exhausted ;) The two corners can be 30-50 feet away. The key is intentionally building up that muscle memory, forcing yourself to look ahead. Don't worry about riding fast - just look ahead to where you want to go and work on being smooth with your body position/technique. -Kelley
Always stay standing in rocks. Always. Keep your weight on the balls of your feet and let the bike work. You don't need weight on your hands unless you're specifically trying to weight the front end. Your hands aren't there to support your body weight. Also, look where you want to go, not where you want to avoid. I had a bad target fixation issue for a long time because I looked AT the big rocks, not at the line where I wanted to go. The flat line isn't always the best line. Sometimes it is better to go over the tops of the higher rocks and line then up to stay out of the holes between rocks. Getting stuck in those holes is when you get into the really tiring stop and go situations.
I Would like to add. Accept that your bike will move on the trail. Just relax and allow it to happen. You won’t fall because your front wheel slides off a rock or something. You will fall if you stiffen to and try to overcompensate for the movement.
If you're not putting weight on the handlebars, and you move your hips back, all your weight is still going through the footpegs and not changing how much weight on front vs rear tire. My question is, are you saying I should push/pull on the bars, or are you saying that moving your hips back still affects the bike despite not changing the weight distribution?
Great question. My goal is to push/pull on the bars as little as possible so that I conserve energy because I'm more likely to get fatigued when using my upper body. Moving my hips back does distribute some weight to the rear compared to keeping them in the middle. The problem that I was trying to point out is that some trail riders keep too much weight back on the seat that the only direction they can go is forward unless you let go of the bars, and this can cause the front-end/wheel to be too "light", making it more likely to slide out or dance around. With the balanced body position, I can easily shift my weight any direction based on what the bike is about to do. Does that make sense?
@@vashon100 Yes and the correct speed at which maintenance of momentum is safe, economical and possible can be lowered as the ability to read and negotiate terrain (through balance and control) increases. The ore time people spend practicing and riding slowly over obstacles/challenging terrain the slower they can do it and reduce damage to machine and rider, not to mention better fuel economy vs throwing throttle at everything and holding on for dear life. Most "Adv" riders though cannot be assed taking the time or investing the effort to develop slow speed skill. They think the measure of skill is throwing themselves at everything full tilt. That's why you often see so-called experienced Adv riders avoid trails that with their years of supposed experience should be a breeze (usually blaming their bike weight or tyres) or worse, throw themselves at rocky, sandy and muddy obstacles and end up stuck or with broken bikes or bodies.
![How To Ride A Dirt Bike In The Woods Without Crashing [For Beginners]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KAj22tDDmp4/mqdefault.jpg)
![How To Ride A Dirt Bike In The Woods Without Crashing [For Beginners]](/img/tr.png)
![Ice On My Teeth - ATEEZ エイティーズ 에이티즈 [Music Bank] | KBS WORLD TV 241115](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/c-n92OgbbwA/mqdefault.jpg)
Which tip did you find most interesting in this video?
[FREE Guide] "Basic Techniques" guide to trail ride with confidence - motocrosshideout.com/basic/
@@MotocrossHideout I did thanks for the tips but I ride sand and dust
Nice. What's the hardest part about riding in the sand for you?
@MotorcrossHideout - All of them :)
I’m 63 and been riding moderate/difficult rocky trails for about 40 years in the Colorado Rocky Mountains. I’m tired of them and now I prefer fast desert riding. Great info though!
Ha, yeah I get it - they're exhausting physically and mentally if that's all you ride.
You've probably ridden all of these trails if you've been riding in Colorado for that long!
Thanks for watching :)
I am learning that i can just give it throttle, look a was ahead to pick a line, and trust the bike to just do it's thing as far as going over the rocks goes. It's way better at rocks than I am it seems.
Ha, yep, it's easy to waste a lot of energy forcing the bike to go where we want. It's a lot easier when we use the proper techniques and let the bike do most of the work. Thanks for watching and sharing!
You want a steady momentum which aids balance vs trying to get through it quickly. People can get away with giving it a gutfull of throttle and holding on for dear life. They don't progress that way though and sooner or later will pay for it. Learn to go slower, at a steady pace (maintenance of momentum vs speed) and balance,
@@titaniumquarrion9838 Absolutely. "give it throttle" wasn't supposed to mean pin it. I've done that and it's terrifying. I've also been working on my wrist bouncing all over with the bumps, which is also terrifying and makes me appreciate having two fingers covering the clutch.
All great advice balance and learning to keep your momentum and a steady throttle absolutely helps .
Absolutely! Thanks for watching :)
Falling on rocks is what makes them scary.
Yup, especially if you don't have proper protection - ouchy!
Falling on rocks can be extremely painful and ruin your dirt bike fun for months 😞
Don't fall on them. But also remember... Bumps only exist if you acknowledge them.
We start novice riders with teaching them to stand and learn to control the bike while standing. We teach them to dab while standing to keep weight on the pegs this also keeps traction on the tires. We find this works best in our loose rocky areas of Northern California I hope this helps it seems to here.
That's great, David! Do you coach a riding school or help a lot of new trail riders?
Focus ahead - have momentum
The new 6500 closed cartridge forks make my 300 a lot more stable straight or turning in the loose volcanic rock. Open cartridge used to ride lower in the stroke making the bike unstable under compression. I still hate rocks,, but the bike is rock steady.
Interesting. So that sounds like something similar to adding preload/higher spring rate. Thanks for watching, Don!
Thank you this video was very informative
thanks for watching
Definitely guilty of looking down too much instead of ahead. It's hard to get out of that habit.
Hey Kenny, no worries - it's easy to fall into that habit, even for myself!
If you have a small area to practice where you can do an oval (2 corners is all), a simple drill I like to teach and use is:
-Entering the corner, look ahead to the exit of the corner
-By the time you get to the exit, look ahead to the next corner entrance
-Repeat until satisfied or exhausted ;)
The two corners can be 30-50 feet away. The key is intentionally building up that muscle memory, forcing yourself to look ahead. Don't worry about riding fast - just look ahead to where you want to go and work on being smooth with your body position/technique.
-Kelley
Where you look is where you go. Applies for multiple sports.
Brilliant
Always stay standing in rocks. Always. Keep your weight on the balls of your feet and let the bike work. You don't need weight on your hands unless you're specifically trying to weight the front end. Your hands aren't there to support your body weight.
Also, look where you want to go, not where you want to avoid. I had a bad target fixation issue for a long time because I looked AT the big rocks, not at the line where I wanted to go.
The flat line isn't always the best line. Sometimes it is better to go over the tops of the higher rocks and line then up to stay out of the holes between rocks. Getting stuck in those holes is when you get into the really tiring stop and go situations.
Great tips - thanks for watching!
This is the way.
I Would like to add. Accept that your bike will move on the trail. Just relax and allow it to happen. You won’t fall because your front wheel slides off a rock or something. You will fall if you stiffen to and try to overcompensate for the movement.
Thanks for watching and sharing, Steve.
If you're not putting weight on the handlebars, and you move your hips back, all your weight is still going through the footpegs and not changing how much weight on front vs rear tire.
My question is, are you saying I should push/pull on the bars, or are you saying that moving your hips back still affects the bike despite not changing the weight distribution?
Great question.
My goal is to push/pull on the bars as little as possible so that I conserve energy because I'm more likely to get fatigued when using my upper body.
Moving my hips back does distribute some weight to the rear compared to keeping them in the middle.
The problem that I was trying to point out is that some trail riders keep too much weight back on the seat that the only direction they can go is forward unless you let go of the bars, and this can cause the front-end/wheel to be too "light", making it more likely to slide out or dance around.
With the balanced body position, I can easily shift my weight any direction based on what the bike is about to do.
Does that make sense?
Yeah, ok. Thanks!
👍
Carry tools to adjust clutch....and straighten shift and rear brake levers. Fumbling for control on steep rocky trails is unnerving.
Thanks for sharing, Mark. What would you say is the hardest part about controlling your bike on steep rocky trails?
I'd add don't confuse momentum with speed.
Yes, proper communication is key. Steady momentum/speed is different than aggressive acceleration/jerky speed.
momentum includes mass. (m*v vs just v)
@@vashon100 Yes and the correct speed at which maintenance of momentum is safe, economical and possible can be lowered as the ability to read and negotiate terrain (through balance and control) increases. The ore time people spend practicing and riding slowly over obstacles/challenging terrain the slower they can do it and reduce damage to machine and rider, not to mention better fuel economy vs throwing throttle at everything and holding on for dear life.
Most "Adv" riders though cannot be assed taking the time or investing the effort to develop slow speed skill. They think the measure of skill is throwing themselves at everything full tilt.
That's why you often see so-called experienced Adv riders avoid trails that with their years of supposed experience should be a breeze (usually blaming their bike weight or tyres) or worse, throw themselves at rocky, sandy and muddy obstacles and end up stuck or with broken bikes or bodies.
See the rocks but never look at them
I road with an old timer who kept putting his feet down in the rocks.
He beat his feet and ankles bkack and blue.
Ouch, sounds painful! 😣
First
That was quick...
Trail riding in New England you better learn how or you won't like riding.
Ha, yeah I've heard that the trails/mountains can be very rocky and technical in the NE! Thanks for watching :)
Doesnt look like any kind of fun
Pin me rock man
That sounds like some song lyrics...
Yus