I’ve seen some tricky tasks in my time but this was a test of extreme patience and I was very impressed with you both, bit of a lack of coffee and cookies to lift the spirits but apart from that you did it. It was like Apollo 11 at times willing you on and no less tense I hope and pray mine stays together . Great effort 🙏🙏🏴🌈
Good Video. Some suggestions since I used your video to replace my coolant tank. 1. When you remove the old tank just cut the two hoses that attach to the aluminum supply and return lines, with a utility knife A lot easier than messing with the clamps and they only cost around $8 each to replace. 2. When attaching the new tank through the firewall, lube the insides of the two short hoses with some coolant. They will slide on the aluminum tubes nicely. 3. The bottom hose is just an overflow that can be attached after all of the others. It gives you more room in the engine bay. One less hose to get in the way. You can put this hose on by just feeling around the bulkhead since there is not one of those dreaded hose clips. 4. The special tool is a MUST to do this job. 5. It's a pain but very doable by the amatuer mechanic. Thanks again.
Armed with this video & @GrayGhost extra tips I managed to swap in a new '2nd hand' expansion tank earlier today, I was apprehensive that I would make things worse, but with a good (led video light) & the essential remote pipe pliers tool, I managed it in under 3hours. Really chuffed, all thanks to this video & peoples previous experience.
Great video, watched numerous times. My Boxster S coolant tank replacement took 5 hrs. 1 hour of that was that was trying to get the coolant supply and return hoses off AL tubes after clamps removed, I ended up slicing the ends and replacing those 2 hoses. 1). All work can be done from top, engine access/service mode. 2). The Astro hose clamp tool is a must. 3). The overflow tube can be just be pulled off (no clamps) and removed to provide better access by feeling around. 4). After the coolant supply and return hoses are off, the tank can be pulled slightly in the trunk, where the oil filler tube clamp and oil cooler return line clamps can be removed from the trunk with the Astro tool. 5). Put a new coolant sensor on when replacing the tank. 2 wraps of electric tape around the sensor fitting will prevent it from coming off when fitting the new tank. 6). An eye dropper of coolant on the inside of the hoses will ease sliding them on the AL tubes. 7). The smaller coolant line, is a 2 person job, 1 person on the clamp pliers, the other positioning the jaws. Leave both the supply and return clamps on the metal lines, makes installation easier. 8). The coolant vacuum fill tool is a must, any trapped air will cause you to run hot. 9). Zerex G-40 coolant is cheaper than Porsche and has the same chemical makeup (Can be bought at O’Reillys)
+Mark Magnusson glad it helped and thanks for the additional info. Porsche coolant prices are no joke so I may check out the one you recommended next time!
I happened upon this video at precisely the right time. I got the bad AOS fixed and went out for a drive before I put then ew rotors and brake pads on when I smelled coolant. Couldn't find a leak. Smell was heaviest in the trunk. I read about faulty reservoir caps and sure enough mine was faulty and leaking a bit. I bought a new one from Pelican Parts and the system pressurized properly and promptly made the reservoir itself give out. This is my next job!
Hi your video really helped me get an understanding of the job I now need to do to my own car, other videos cut it short & dont show the actual process & just swap to 'that was tricky and took 2 hours..' I also was shouting at the screen to warn you that the sensor had dropped out!..your real time delivery works for me, Ive subscribed. Thanks JCG
Thanks for this, was helpful.. I got very excited because it only took me about 25 minutes to remove the old tank. After disconnecting the oil tube above the engine, and the little hose with the quick connect, I was able to pull the tank into trunk enough to get the oil tube and the one below it with the "fancy pliers". I could not get the lone one on the right though it was too tight on that side and the clamps rotation was not ideal. I was able to get that one from the engine compartment though after only about 5 minutes of fumbling around.. so far so good. Then... Moved everything over to the new one, check Then... It took me 3 hours to get it back together! I started trying to attach through the trunk but that did not work, ended up taking the hoses off in the trunk anyway and attaching them to the back, lining them with the aluminum pipes.. that worked, then I had the damnedest time with one of the clamps getting it over the aluminum pipe lip... Damn it! Oh well, glad it is done. This one took me longer then the water pump, thermostat and engine mount combined! Great video, and Boxster content, I appreciate your style!
I bought my 2004 986 Special Edition new. I had almost exactly 180,000 miles on it when the 2nd expansion tank failed. The original tank lasted just short of 12 years. I bought the "German OEM" replacement and that lasted almost exactly 5 years. Since I hoped to keep the car 20 years when I bought it, I have 3 years to go before I get rid of it, so I didn't want to pay for the Porsche part. Someday, I'm going to make a list of all the parts I've replaced, starting with 3 water pumps, 2 light switches, the steering column stalks, the steering rack and the PS high pressure hose ($400 for a frickin' hose!), one clutch (normal wear and tear but installed a ceramic IMS bearing while it was out), and dozens of other parts both great and small. On the bright side, the RMS leaked in its' first few months so that was replaced under warranty and it hasn't leaked since and the electrical system has been rock-solid. As you all know, it's the best driving car I've ever been behind the wheel of, so it's got that going for it, but it's left me waiting for a tow truck way too many times (once on the Fourth Of July holiday 30 min before arriving at the hotel and I had to be towed over 100 miles back to my shop, who, as it turns out, was closed for the WEEK!). So it's my first and last Porsche.
This video has helped me out a lot! That special tool really is the trick, and I wouldn't have known about it without your video. Thanks again. On a side note: I got a ton of anxiety when I saw that sensor fall out and you didn't notice lol - sorry about that, bud!
Ok I just completed this repair on the 2000 2.7L Box. All I can say is that this design is just crap lol. How did they not think to straight-route the coolant lines separate from the oil filler? Why? Why make it so difficult when most cars you undo a bolt or two and disconnect a hose and there ya go. Anyway, I was able to get visual access to the "final boss" clip, the one that goes to the coolant tank by hanging my head inside the engine compartment, and undo it with the cable-extended-pliers. Also helps to remove the oil filler tube entirely, I was able to access that clip from the trunk side. There are only two "really difficult" clips. The third line has a quick-connect fitting near the engine, the overflow drain hose doesn't have clips. I'm a relatively experienced home mechanic, but the entire affair took a good solid 4 hours. Installing the new tank was also tricky, but I have the locking ratcheting pliers and affixed those to the two super difficult clips and let them rest on the lines before installing the tank. When the tank went in it was just a matter of forcing the stupid hoses on the lines (helps to secure the tank with at least one bolt first) but once that was done, just move the clips to the home spot and release. The rest is just normal wrenching. Thanks for your videos, they've helped a lot with starter replacement and this job.
+THEtvExPerT you’re welcome. I feel like I need to reiterate that it SUCKED. Lol. Just glad knowing it’s going to help some people and hopefully get me some more subscribers ;)
@@HelpMeDIY Absolutely! Also, as you're probably well aware, recording and talking about what you're doing on a project makes it take much longer. So I certainly appreciate that! I recorded my entire 986 heater core replacement so I'll hopefully upload that project soon to help others too! 😎
+THEtvExPerT hahaha yes... well aware. Also have to turn off (or just not listen to) my music and sometimes the fan. And yet most people can’t even press a button for me. 😞
Thanks for the video.Found 1/2 gal floating in my trunk just got it dried out yesterday.Looks like my next project and I’m not looking forward to it..What’s the name of that clamp removal tool and where can I pick that up at?
Love your vids...TTG... but get a microphone so that we can better hear you. You know... a clip on... bluetooth... wireless... anything. Also, assume that anyone tackling anything under the "hood" already knows how to access it... maybe refer them to another vid. That alone would save 15 minutes. Cheers!
Yeah that’s on the to do list! As for the “people should know”, well, that’s kind of my whole thing... providing FULL how to vids. There are so many that skip the hard parts of other things you won’t know about until you get into it. It’s easy to skip ahead of info you don’t need. It’s impossible to see it if it’s not there.
Your videos are very informative. I am a subscriber for sure. I have a question about this project. My expansion tank os leaking and wondering if some of the hoses that you disconnected would be easier from the other end. I get the oil hose and the smaller hose, but the other 3? Can you access them from below the engine? Just wondering. Thanks again.
Ok from watching the video and diagram research... I have to ask, can you not remove the one hose coming from the clear-ish plastic resevior and IF you can drop the oil fill tube...simply remove the resevior rather than pulling the entire black plastic plate out of the car? There is only on hose fitting (clear plastic) that goes into the car.
Hi I looked at this method & can confirm that this method could be possible, the white plastic does pull apart and its possible to undue and pull out the black plastic tube. I didnt risk it though & used the usual method as wanted to keep it altogether.
I'm trying to avoid this whole process for a little while, but I have a leak that I believe is coming from the coolant level sensor when the system heats up and pressurizes. Do you remember if there was a gasket on the sensor surface or the tank surface? if it's on the gasket I would like to try replacing that first.
+David Janzen another comment in here already answered that question for you I believe, but for anyone else reading this, there is no gasket but it can’t leak from here (unless the crack in the tank happens to be here I suppose)
2001 for $500, so I don’t really care about doing it right. Can’t I just cut out the one tube that goes through the wall attached to the tank? (Not cut tube, but cut the black round piece and gasket that seals firewall) Buying it with an aftermarket tank already on it that looks fairly recent, so this wouldn’t be the first replacement. I’m kinda worried maybe the engine is no good. If it’s bad, hopefully I can get my $500 back for scrap? 🤷🏼♂️ Anyway, can’t I just leave a partial hole and save myself hours of frustration?
@@HelpMeDIY Current tank has 3 inch hole, so ….. Beside the oil fill and coolant drain hose. No videos say what the two middle ones are for. 🤷🏼♂️ Can i test for air bubbles/exhaust gas with only one hose using a random non-pressure system tank I have? (Old tank DID came off by cutting)
ONE OF THE MOST RIDICULOUS F-UP DESIGNS FROM PORSCHE EVER. EVERY THING ABOUT THE BOXSTER AND ANY WATER COOLED PORSCHE IS POOR. THE SECOND GEN TOYOTA MR2 BLOWS AWAY THE PORSCHE IN ENGINEERING DESIGN AND RELIABILITY OF A MID ENGINE CAR! SIMPLY UNCALLED FOR. LOVE PORSCHE BUT WORKING ON THEM AND PAYING FOR SOME REPAIRS ARE SIMPLY UBSURD! 😬😬😬😬
Good video -- shows what a nightmare job everyone says it is! Saved to my Boxster files in event I have to do this.
Thanks again Edwin! Not sure if you noticed, but I have a 'Playlist' of all of the (many) Boxster projects I've done ;)
@@HelpMeDIY Yes, I have checked those out and subscribed -- all are well filmed and clear.
@@edwinthompson159 Thanks so much for your kind words! Hope they help :D
I’ve seen some tricky tasks in my time but this was a test of extreme patience and I was very impressed with you both, bit of a lack of coffee and cookies to lift the spirits but apart from that you did it. It was like Apollo 11 at times willing you on and no less tense I hope and pray mine stays together . Great effort 🙏🙏🏴🌈
Good Video. Some suggestions since I used your video to replace my coolant tank.
1. When you remove the old tank just cut the two hoses that attach to the aluminum supply and return lines, with a utility knife A lot easier than messing with the clamps and they only cost around $8 each to replace.
2. When attaching the new tank through the firewall, lube the insides of the two short hoses with some coolant. They will slide on the aluminum tubes nicely.
3. The bottom hose is just an overflow that can be attached after all of the others. It gives you more room in the engine bay. One less hose to get in the way. You can put this hose on by just feeling around the bulkhead since there is not one of those dreaded hose clips.
4. The special tool is a MUST to do this job.
5. It's a pain but very doable by the amatuer mechanic.
Thanks again.
+TheOvationman you’re welcome! Thanks for subscribing.
Armed with this video & @GrayGhost extra tips I managed to swap in a new '2nd hand' expansion tank earlier today, I was apprehensive that I would make things worse, but with a good (led video light) & the essential remote pipe pliers tool, I managed it in under 3hours. Really chuffed, all thanks to this video & peoples previous experience.
Thank you! I needed this extra before I started my project.
Great video, watched numerous times. My Boxster S coolant tank replacement took 5 hrs. 1 hour of that was that was trying to get the coolant supply and return hoses off AL tubes after clamps removed, I ended up slicing the ends and replacing those 2 hoses.
1). All work can be done from top, engine access/service mode.
2). The Astro hose clamp tool is a must.
3). The overflow tube can be just be pulled off (no clamps) and removed to provide better access by feeling around.
4). After the coolant supply and return hoses are off, the tank can be pulled slightly in the trunk, where the oil filler tube clamp and oil cooler return line clamps can be removed from the trunk with the Astro tool.
5). Put a new coolant sensor on when replacing the tank. 2 wraps of electric tape around the sensor fitting will prevent it from coming off when fitting the new tank.
6). An eye dropper of coolant on the inside of the hoses will ease sliding them on the AL tubes.
7). The smaller coolant line, is a 2 person job, 1 person on the clamp pliers, the other positioning the jaws. Leave both the supply and return clamps on the metal lines, makes installation easier.
8). The coolant vacuum fill tool is a must, any trapped air will cause you to run hot.
9). Zerex G-40 coolant is cheaper than Porsche and has the same chemical makeup (Can be bought at O’Reillys)
+Mark Magnusson glad it helped and thanks for the additional info. Porsche coolant prices are no joke so I may check out the one you recommended next time!
Zerex G-40 approved by Porsche, Audi, VW, BMW, phosphate free I believe
Just had a coolant Leak on my wife's Boxster ... Good look at it fellows ... Thanks Loverboy🏹❤️ is Here
+@coaryloverboy5649 glad it helped! 🍻
Really can’t thank you enough for this post. I live in Edinburgh, Scotland and the Porsche dealer wanted over 2 grand to do this job.
+Terminal Velocity you’re welcome! You can thank me by becoming a channel member or buying me a beer 🍻 😉
I happened upon this video at precisely the right time. I got the bad AOS fixed and went out for a drive before I put then ew rotors and brake pads on when I smelled coolant. Couldn't find a leak. Smell was heaviest in the trunk. I read about faulty reservoir caps and sure enough mine was faulty and leaking a bit. I bought a new one from Pelican Parts and the system pressurized properly and promptly made the reservoir itself give out. This is my next job!
+@markcash2 you will definitely want to subscribe if you haven’t and check out my Boxster playlist 😉🍻
Hi your video really helped me get an understanding of the job I now need to do to my own car, other videos cut it short & dont show the actual process & just swap to 'that was tricky and took 2 hours..' I also was shouting at the screen to warn you that the sensor had dropped out!..your real time delivery works for me, Ive subscribed. Thanks JCG
+J CG 😂 thank you!
Thanks for this, was helpful.. I got very excited because it only took me about 25 minutes to remove the old tank. After disconnecting the oil tube above the engine, and the little hose with the quick connect, I was able to pull the tank into trunk enough to get the oil tube and the one below it with the "fancy pliers". I could not get the lone one on the right though it was too tight on that side and the clamps rotation was not ideal. I was able to get that one from the engine compartment though after only about 5 minutes of fumbling around.. so far so good.
Then...
Moved everything over to the new one, check
Then...
It took me 3 hours to get it back together! I started trying to attach through the trunk but that did not work, ended up taking the hoses off in the trunk anyway and attaching them to the back, lining them with the aluminum pipes.. that worked, then I had the damnedest time with one of the clamps getting it over the aluminum pipe lip... Damn it! Oh well, glad it is done. This one took me longer then the water pump, thermostat and engine mount combined!
Great video, and Boxster content, I appreciate your style!
+Brian Gormanly well done! Glad I was able to help. Just remember, it’s all downhill from here! 😂
I bought my 2004 986 Special Edition new. I had almost exactly 180,000 miles on it when the 2nd expansion tank failed. The original tank lasted just short of 12 years. I bought the "German OEM" replacement and that lasted almost exactly 5 years. Since I hoped to keep the car 20 years when I bought it, I have 3 years to go before I get rid of it, so I didn't want to pay for the Porsche part. Someday, I'm going to make a list of all the parts I've replaced, starting with 3 water pumps, 2 light switches, the steering column stalks, the steering rack and the PS high pressure hose ($400 for a frickin' hose!), one clutch (normal wear and tear but installed a ceramic IMS bearing while it was out), and dozens of other parts both great and small. On the bright side, the RMS leaked in its' first few months so that was replaced under warranty and it hasn't leaked since and the electrical system has been rock-solid. As you all know, it's the best driving car I've ever been behind the wheel of, so it's got that going for it, but it's left me waiting for a tow truck way too many times (once on the Fourth Of July holiday 30 min before arriving at the hotel and I had to be towed over 100 miles back to my shop, who, as it turns out, was closed for the WEEK!). So it's my first and last Porsche.
+Tainsha Binnez i hear you. So many great times though I’m sure!
@@HelpMeDIY You got that right - otherwise, it would have been listed in the classifieds long ago!
This video has helped me out a lot! That special tool really is the trick, and I wouldn't have known about it without your video. Thanks again.
On a side note: I got a ton of anxiety when I saw that sensor fall out and you didn't notice lol - sorry about that, bud!
+Phillip Clark glad it helped! Sorry to spread the anxiety 😆
Just did mine. This video helped me so much.
+TheXbaT that’s great 🍻
This is what I’ll be doing this weekend. Hooray....
+The Polish Wonder lucky you! Have fun! At least you have this video which I did not 😁
Help Me DIY exactly
Another informative and useful video, many thanks. :O)
+Gary L thank you for watching and commenting!
Ok I just completed this repair on the 2000 2.7L Box. All I can say is that this design is just crap lol. How did they not think to straight-route the coolant lines separate from the oil filler? Why? Why make it so difficult when most cars you undo a bolt or two and disconnect a hose and there ya go. Anyway, I was able to get visual access to the "final boss" clip, the one that goes to the coolant tank by hanging my head inside the engine compartment, and undo it with the cable-extended-pliers. Also helps to remove the oil filler tube entirely, I was able to access that clip from the trunk side. There are only two "really difficult" clips. The third line has a quick-connect fitting near the engine, the overflow drain hose doesn't have clips. I'm a relatively experienced home mechanic, but the entire affair took a good solid 4 hours.
Installing the new tank was also tricky, but I have the locking ratcheting pliers and affixed those to the two super difficult clips and let them rest on the lines before installing the tank. When the tank went in it was just a matter of forcing the stupid hoses on the lines (helps to secure the tank with at least one bolt first) but once that was done, just move the clips to the home spot and release. The rest is just normal wrenching.
Thanks for your videos, they've helped a lot with starter replacement and this job.
+Brian Miller & Sylvia as you now know, there is nothing fun about this job! 😆 congrats, and glad I could help 🍻
This helped so much thank you!
+DLEGEND you’re welcome, thanks for commenting 🍻
Just realized you also have a s1000RR
They are amazing bike. I had the 2014 but switch to Ducati now.
+StreetMottoCycles well, it’s the S1000XR. More upright version of the RR with a detuned engine
@@HelpMeDIY beautiful bike.
@@streetmottocycles8146 thanks, I love it!
Thanks for doing this!!!!
+THEtvExPerT you’re welcome. I feel like I need to reiterate that it SUCKED. Lol. Just glad knowing it’s going to help some people and hopefully get me some more subscribers ;)
@@HelpMeDIY Absolutely! Also, as you're probably well aware, recording and talking about what you're doing on a project makes it take much longer. So I certainly appreciate that! I recorded my entire 986 heater core replacement so I'll hopefully upload that project soon to help others too! 😎
+THEtvExPerT hahaha yes... well aware. Also have to turn off (or just not listen to) my music and sometimes the fan. And yet most people can’t even press a button for me. 😞
Thanks for the video.Found 1/2 gal floating in my trunk just got it dried out yesterday.Looks like my next project and I’m not looking forward to it..What’s the name of that clamp removal tool and where can I pick that up at?
+Heinzr 57 hose clamp pliers. I just put a link to the ones I bought in the video description
Love your vids...TTG... but get a microphone so that we can better hear you. You know... a clip on... bluetooth... wireless... anything. Also, assume that anyone tackling anything under the "hood" already knows how to access it... maybe refer them to another vid. That alone would save 15 minutes. Cheers!
Yeah that’s on the to do list! As for the “people should know”, well, that’s kind of my whole thing... providing FULL how to vids. There are so many that skip the hard parts of other things you won’t know about until you get into it. It’s easy to skip ahead of info you don’t need. It’s impossible to see it if it’s not there.
Your videos are very informative. I am a subscriber for sure. I have a question about this project. My expansion tank os leaking and wondering if some of the hoses that you disconnected would be easier from the other end. I get the oil hose and the smaller hose, but the other 3? Can you access them from below the engine? Just wondering. Thanks again.
Some others have left comments about things they have tried, but this is the only time I’ve ever done it so I don’t have experience any other way 🤷♂️
@@HelpMeDIY thank you sir, it looked dauntingly tough. Mine is leaking - I’ve got to change it out. Thanks for you content, very much appreciated.
Ok from watching the video and diagram research... I have to ask, can you not remove the one hose coming from the clear-ish plastic resevior and IF you can drop the oil fill tube...simply remove the resevior rather than pulling the entire black plastic plate out of the car? There is only on hose fitting (clear plastic) that goes into the car.
+Zachary Farra I am not aware of any shortcuts with this. If you try that and it works let us know!
Hi I looked at this method & can confirm that this method could be possible, the white plastic does pull apart and its possible to undue and pull out the black plastic tube. I didnt risk it though & used the usual method as wanted to keep it altogether.
I observed this also. You would still have to cut the gasket between the engine side and the people side.
I'm trying to avoid this whole process for a little while, but I have a leak that I believe is coming from the coolant level sensor when the system heats up and pressurizes. Do you remember if there was a gasket on the sensor surface or the tank surface? if it's on the gasket I would like to try replacing that first.
+David Janzen another comment in here already answered that question for you I believe, but for anyone else reading this, there is no gasket but it can’t leak from here (unless the crack in the tank happens to be here I suppose)
@@HelpMeDIY Yep, thanks for the video. I'm looking forward to this process less than my clutch lol.
@@davidjanzen8304 haha you got it man! Hopefully you’re already a subscriber 😉
2001 for $500, so I don’t really care about doing it right. Can’t I just cut out the one tube that goes through the wall attached to the tank? (Not cut tube, but cut the black round piece and gasket that seals firewall) Buying it with an aftermarket tank already on it that looks fairly recent, so this wouldn’t be the first replacement. I’m kinda worried maybe the engine is no good. If it’s bad, hopefully I can get my $500 back for scrap? 🤷🏼♂️ Anyway, can’t I just leave a partial hole and save myself hours of frustration?
+Cashew I think people have done it before if you try that make sure to report back how it went.
@@HelpMeDIY Current tank has 3 inch hole, so ….. Beside the oil fill and coolant drain hose. No videos say what the two middle ones are for. 🤷🏼♂️ Can i test for air bubbles/exhaust gas with only one hose using a random non-pressure system tank I have? (Old tank DID came off by cutting)
En que tienda compraste tu expansión tank?
do you have the oem part number?
+Yousif Fadool I just added a link in the description!
ONE OF THE MOST RIDICULOUS F-UP DESIGNS FROM PORSCHE EVER. EVERY THING ABOUT THE BOXSTER AND ANY WATER COOLED PORSCHE IS POOR. THE SECOND GEN TOYOTA MR2 BLOWS AWAY THE PORSCHE IN ENGINEERING DESIGN AND RELIABILITY OF A MID ENGINE CAR! SIMPLY UNCALLED FOR. LOVE PORSCHE BUT WORKING ON THEM AND PAYING FOR SOME REPAIRS ARE SIMPLY UBSURD! 😬😬😬😬
Toyota MR2? Lol. Doesn't come close to a Porsche. Sounds like you need to get a better paying job... and leave the MR2s to the ladies. lol.
Joe Joe who wants a mr2 lol poor mans boxster