Cool stuff, I gave my 130SLT to my Dad, whom after a few month of frustration has just started to get some nice result. Triangulum was on his hit list too so will be good to show him what can be done!
Man sooo happy to see your another video with 130SLT I gave my SLT within a month and moved to EQ6r pro mount and other scopes. But I am soo happy to see you back and I am always thankful for all the help you did initially when I has 130. Hope to catch up with you soon and I can share my work with you😊😊😊😊
I just found your videos today and love them. I'm in the DFW area too, Arlington. Where is a decent place to drive to in order to get some pictures? I don't have a telescope yet. I'm thinking about getting the Celestron - NexStar 130SLT.
For the deep space, I typically go to parks or boat ramps. I don't have a specific spot that will be specific location that would be best, especially since going south may be better for you? www.lightpollutionmap.info/ Is an excellent site to help find places though. I typically aim for an index of >21. For planetary though you don't care about light pollution (except Uranus and Neptune for ease of finding). Do make sure you do your research though and make sure your getting the best thing for you. And as always I highly recommend the used market. It has served me fantastically. If you have any questions about telescopes, especially relating to which ones may be more appropriate for your targets, feel free to shoot me an email. It should be on my about page.
@@kylemccaslin Thank you for getting back to me. I really appreciate it. Out of all of the videos I have been watching lately yours are really well put together and I enjoy watching them. Keep it up. You inspire me to get more serious in this hobby of mine. I have checked out the light pollution map, I have a couple spots picked out for when I do get a telescope. im really leaning towards the Celestron 130slt for my first telescope. I really want to start off photographing planets, then deep space. Then I will save up to get a nice mount that will auto track.
@@weavbrian My wife and I just went out to Fort Griffin out by Albany, Texas this weekend. It was a fantastic night as the clouds just cleared out and with the new moon, so the Milky Way was in full display. It's only a 2.5 hr drive from DFW (We live in Euless) and the park has camping sites available really cheap. (enclosed and heated shelters too, though you'd still need sleeping gear) Might make for a good over night trip. Also @kylemccaslin , if theres any chance to meet up sometime, I have a 130SLT as well and would love to chat with you about the mods you've done to yours and learn more about how to get the most out of mine.
Cool video!! I have the Same Telescope from a Different Brand (Orion). I have Been Trying Our some DSO imaging Lately. The Triangulum galaxy I think looks like Great Addition to my Targets. Thanks For This!
Hello! Congratulations on the images I have a similar Telescope, keep always posting video on this telescope a suggestion processing tutorials already accompanied your posts on the site.
I have this scope as well, and when I mount my dslr, the sensor is too far away from the focal point. As of now, I have to use a 2x Barlow lens to account for this, but this limits my field of view…could you share your dslr setup for it? Thanks. Awesome pic by the way!
I use a Mirror Position mod that moves the primary about 1.5 inches forward in the scope, this pushes the focal range out. Makes things way easier since its less sensitive and with the higher angular area per pixel, it takes less time to resolve DSOs. Here's the guide I used to do the mod. It also has the parts list used: ruclips.net/video/jDpSXPNCnS0/видео.html A great thing about this too is that you can still use eyepieces and everything (atleast the stock/included ones), multiple barlows, and do the Prime Focus with the DSLR. It is worth noting though that in exchange for bumping the focal range outwards, you really start pushing the limits on the outer end. If i recall correctly, while both eyepieces still work, one had to be ~90% seated instead of the full seating that you'd normally expect. Hope that helps!
amazing work, I'm planting to buy an slt mount too and how do you rate it for tracking ? I'm going to buy it with the 150 slt model but still can buy your same tube if its too heavy, i hope for your reply
It's OK, could be better. I'm not sure if a 150 would be too much or not. Either way though, you want to position the tube/dovetail in the slot to optimize the balance.
The telescope tracks after alignment, but only enough for a max of ~30s exposures without trails. However, we can stack the shorter exposures up unto a longer aggregate exposures. In this case, it was 15s exposures together to get to 3.5 hours. DSS is the stacking software I use. Admittedly though, I adjust it occasionally to correct for field rotation and keep the framing, maybe every 30 mins or so Not sure if that answers your question. Do please elaborate if it didnt.
@@astronomylover What you may have been seeing is backlash in the system. If the scope changes directions, especially right after you do your alignment, it may take a minute to start tracking. This happens because there is a small space between the gear teeth that needs to be overcome. Minimizing backlash is also important for a good alignment. I have a full process video and describe it a little more on my website if you want more details.
Yes, I have a mirror position mod that give me prime focus. I used AstroPatio's video on the subject to do mine. If I recall it's about an inch forward in the tube. You can think of it in a relative sense in that every inch forward pushes the focal point two inches out at the focuser.
What do you mean by tracking a galaxy for 3 hours? Does it mean I have to point my telescope at where the galaxy is for 3 hours for me to be able to see it? Im new to telescopes
So Deep Space is really really dim. Its dim enough that while you can often look at Deep Space Objects, they look like little more than a grey-ish smudge. So in order to really see Deep Space, we use cameras and integrate the photons over time. So in my case here, I let my mount track the target for 3ish hours, while I had my camera looking through it taking pictures. Then afterwards, I stacked the pictures I took into a single frame with an aggregate exposure of ~3hrs. The reason I went that long is because my telescope isn't that big and my camera can be a bit noisy. So three hours gets me a nice signal strength.
Most astrophotography software packages have the ability to adjust/shift/stretch the histogram. Alot of software like PIPP, Autostakkert, and Registax can actually do this adjustment for you via RGB-align or RGB-autobalance algorithms. That said, if you want to use the camera for terrestrial/normal photography, you are indeed in a bit of a rut with the offset white balance. I bet photoshop or lightroom could correct this but it may be a hastle. There are actually filters that you can add to restore the normal white-balance, that seems a bit excessive. If you're instead talking about any infrared let in after modifying your specific camera, it is kind of up to what remaining filters are in the optical train. I think that for my 450d, the infrared let in has a minimal effect compared to the photons gathered in the near infrared which are important for Nebula imaging. Hopefully that explains a bit and helps!
There are setups that can absolutely live-stack though I haven't done it personally. I think there are versions that work with DSLRs (provided you have a wired connection to a PC) and versions that work with Dedicated Astronomy Cameras.
Nice and encouranging video! I've got one 130 SLT myself and this content makes me hopeful!
Cool stuff, I gave my 130SLT to my Dad, whom after a few month of frustration has just started to get some nice result. Triangulum was on his hit list too so will be good to show him what can be done!
@itsswayyy yea I did it a while ago.
Man sooo happy to see your another video with 130SLT
I gave my SLT within a month and moved to EQ6r pro mount and other scopes. But I am soo happy to see you back and I am always thankful for all the help you did initially when I has 130.
Hope to catch up with you soon and I can share my work with you😊😊😊😊
Nice shots Kyle! Thanks for sharing 👍
Nice photo!
I just found your videos today and love them. I'm in the DFW area too, Arlington. Where is a decent place to drive to in order to get some pictures? I don't have a telescope yet. I'm thinking about getting the Celestron - NexStar 130SLT.
For the deep space, I typically go to parks or boat ramps. I don't have a specific spot that will be specific location that would be best, especially since going south may be better for you?
www.lightpollutionmap.info/
Is an excellent site to help find places though. I typically aim for an index of >21. For planetary though you don't care about light pollution (except Uranus and Neptune for ease of finding).
Do make sure you do your research though and make sure your getting the best thing for you. And as always I highly recommend the used market. It has served me fantastically. If you have any questions about telescopes, especially relating to which ones may be more appropriate for your targets, feel free to shoot me an email. It should be on my about page.
@@kylemccaslin Thank you for getting back to me. I really appreciate it. Out of all of the videos I have been watching lately yours are really well put together and I enjoy watching them. Keep it up. You inspire me to get more serious in this hobby of mine. I have checked out the light pollution map, I have a couple spots picked out for when I do get a telescope. im really leaning towards the Celestron 130slt for my first telescope. I really want to start off photographing planets, then deep space. Then I will save up to get a nice mount that will auto track.
@@weavbrian My wife and I just went out to Fort Griffin out by Albany, Texas this weekend. It was a fantastic night as the clouds just cleared out and with the new moon, so the Milky Way was in full display. It's only a 2.5 hr drive from DFW (We live in Euless) and the park has camping sites available really cheap. (enclosed and heated shelters too, though you'd still need sleeping gear) Might make for a good over night trip.
Also @kylemccaslin , if theres any chance to meet up sometime, I have a 130SLT as well and would love to chat with you about the mods you've done to yours and learn more about how to get the most out of mine.
Cool video!! I have the Same Telescope from a Different Brand (Orion). I have Been Trying Our some DSO imaging Lately. The Triangulum galaxy I think looks like Great Addition to my Targets. Thanks For This!
Hello! Congratulations on the images I have a similar Telescope, keep always posting video on this telescope a suggestion processing tutorials already accompanied your posts on the site.
I have this scope as well, and when I mount my dslr, the sensor is too far away from the focal point. As of now, I have to use a 2x Barlow lens to account for this, but this limits my field of view…could you share your dslr setup for it? Thanks. Awesome pic by the way!
I use a Mirror Position mod that moves the primary about 1.5 inches forward in the scope, this pushes the focal range out. Makes things way easier since its less sensitive and with the higher angular area per pixel, it takes less time to resolve DSOs.
Here's the guide I used to do the mod. It also has the parts list used:
ruclips.net/video/jDpSXPNCnS0/видео.html
A great thing about this too is that you can still use eyepieces and everything (atleast the stock/included ones), multiple barlows, and do the Prime Focus with the DSLR. It is worth noting though that in exchange for bumping the focal range outwards, you really start pushing the limits on the outer end. If i recall correctly, while both eyepieces still work, one had to be ~90% seated instead of the full seating that you'd normally expect.
Hope that helps!
@@kylemccaslin Awesome! I’ll definitely check that out! Thank you
amazing work, I'm planting to buy an slt mount too and how do you rate it for tracking ? I'm going to buy it with the 150 slt model but still can buy your same tube if its too heavy, i hope for your reply
It's OK, could be better. I'm not sure if a 150 would be too much or not. Either way though, you want to position the tube/dovetail in the slot to optimize the balance.
Got same scope today, looking forward to take my first shots with it!
How far did you have to push the mirror in for it to achive prime focus?
The offset is only like 1.5 inches or so.
@@kylemccaslin thanks, I am planning to do the mod soon
How do you track the Triangulum Galaxy for 3 hours on your telescope
The telescope tracks after alignment, but only enough for a max of ~30s exposures without trails. However, we can stack the shorter exposures up unto a longer aggregate exposures. In this case, it was 15s exposures together to get to 3.5 hours.
DSS is the stacking software I use.
Admittedly though, I adjust it occasionally to correct for field rotation and keep the framing, maybe every 30 mins or so
Not sure if that answers your question. Do please elaborate if it didnt.
@@kylemccaslin I get it I didn’t know this I kind of did but when I used my telescope it didn’t track it. I will try today if it works for me
@@astronomylover What you may have been seeing is backlash in the system. If the scope changes directions, especially right after you do your alignment, it may take a minute to start tracking. This happens because there is a small space between the gear teeth that needs to be overcome. Minimizing backlash is also important for a good alignment. I have a full process video and describe it a little more on my website if you want more details.
@@kylemccaslin Thanks
You are using prime focus on your set up? What is the distance your primary mirror is pushed into the secondary? Cannot find any measurement for this.
Yes, I have a mirror position mod that give me prime focus. I used AstroPatio's video on the subject to do mine. If I recall it's about an inch forward in the tube. You can think of it in a relative sense in that every inch forward pushes the focal point two inches out at the focuser.
What do you mean by tracking a galaxy for 3 hours? Does it mean I have to point my telescope at where the galaxy is for 3 hours for me to be able to see it? Im new to telescopes
So Deep Space is really really dim. Its dim enough that while you can often look at Deep Space Objects, they look like little more than a grey-ish smudge.
So in order to really see Deep Space, we use cameras and integrate the photons over time. So in my case here, I let my mount track the target for 3ish hours, while I had my camera looking through it taking pictures. Then afterwards, I stacked the pictures I took into a single frame with an aggregate exposure of ~3hrs. The reason I went that long is because my telescope isn't that big and my camera can be a bit noisy. So three hours gets me a nice signal strength.
I have a question how do I deal with the red of the modified cameras?
Most astrophotography software packages have the ability to adjust/shift/stretch the histogram. Alot of software like PIPP, Autostakkert, and Registax can actually do this adjustment for you via RGB-align or RGB-autobalance algorithms.
That said, if you want to use the camera for terrestrial/normal photography, you are indeed in a bit of a rut with the offset white balance. I bet photoshop or lightroom could correct this but it may be a hastle. There are actually filters that you can add to restore the normal white-balance, that seems a bit excessive.
If you're instead talking about any infrared let in after modifying your specific camera, it is kind of up to what remaining filters are in the optical train. I think that for my 450d, the infrared let in has a minimal effect compared to the photons gathered in the near infrared which are important for Nebula imaging.
Hopefully that explains a bit and helps!
How can you get one of these repaired?
Repaired?
Is there any software to live stacking
There are setups that can absolutely live-stack though I haven't done it personally.
I think there are versions that work with DSLRs (provided you have a wired connection to a PC) and versions that work with Dedicated Astronomy Cameras.
Just wonder how one could even think we are the only planet with life ....
Good question. No answered yet.