Mercedes Benz SL R129 Dash Flash
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
- Fix the Flashing Dashboard lights in your early 1990s Mercedes Benz 300SL
100uF 16V capacitors: amzn.to/3kSZ6nN
470uF 16V capacitors: amzn.to/324wLCq
Soldering Iron: amzn.to/2PUycO2
Soldering vacuum: amzn.to/3kSLdWn
Solder: amzn.to/31ZrOuw
Soldering Paste: amzn.to/2Y6y1DL
Screwdrivers: amzn.to/31ZrOuw
Diagonal Side Cutter: amzn.to/2CyF94j
Safety Glasses: amzn.to/3kKuowS
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I have a 1991 500SL and all the indicators on the dash on occasion will light up like Christmas. The only way to resolve the issue is to turn the car off, wait for a moment and restart it. I also get a quick flash every now and then when I use the turn signal. For an instant all the gauges peg and then return to normal. I suspect this is the beginning of a larger issue and will try this repair and see if it makes a difference. Thank you for taking the time to make this video for all the Mercedes lovers out there!
Thanks! When my dash failed it was after sitting at a stop light with the turn signal on. The light changed, and the dashboard went berserk as soon as I started off. I thought the car was done for, but the fix is actually pretty easy and I hope it works for you.
Alden
Thank you so much for this video. It saved me the cost of taking the car to the mechanic - - Step 2 - swapping out all of the fuses fixed the problem for me. NO more dash-flash - i can use my blinker at will.
Great video. Just want to add my 2 cents. My 91 300SL cluster has only 2 capacitors on it , a 470uf (25V)and a 1,000uf (25V) so others may want to take apart their boards first and see what they need instead of buying the wrong parts ahead of time like I did.
No no no!! More instrument cluster screens have been broken using hooks to pull them out than ive had hot dinners. The best and safest way to remove the cluster is simply drop the lower carpeted knee bolster and reach up and push it out from behind!
Thanks for the direct info, I have been doing Interior work for 40 years its always great to find a video that saves time and shows hidden info of clips/screws. we also have info videos to help others. Thanks so much for your help.
Thank you! I am glad you liked it and found it useful. If my video helps someone save money or time, it makes producing my video worthwhile..
Alden
Dear Author, a million thanks for helping us solve the dash flash problem. After the capacitors were changed, as per your filmed guide, my problem has been solved, and all gauges,rev counter etc now started to work normally. I have a problem only with the clock but don't think that this is related to the capacitors. Thanks once again for helping us owners to solve our problems.
Excellent! I am glad it helped. I love these R129 cars and always smile when I see them on the road. I am happy I can help people get to enjoy many more years of these terrific cars. Thanks!
Alden
Great video! Thanks for the quick and easy to follow instructions. New R129 owner here thank you so much!
Thanks! Glad you liked it! The R129 has a lot of powered electrical loads and are very sensitive to voltage. (power seats, mirrors, cruise control, roll bar, climate control, etc) So be sure that you have a good battery, alternator, and tight ground connections.
My 1990 R129 hasn't exhibited this problem but,,,,,, I want to thank you for publishing a fantastic video !!! If it does, I know where to go !!
Well, keep your fingers crossed! It seems to be a common fault for the early years of the R129. I was pretty freaked out when mine went bad in the middle of my morning commute. What first seemed like a devastating set-back turned into a chance to help out other Mercedes owners. (and if you own a soldering iron already, it really is like $10 in parts and an hour to fix if it goes wrong!)
Alden
I love these cars and hope this helps you get yours back on the road to enjoy great drives!
Alden
Great video ... clear instructions ... delivered at a great pace. Thanks for the great instruction!
Thanks! I hope it shows you what you need to know.
Alden
Hi!
Not sure about the temp sensors. One thing I do recommend is that when you pull the bulb for the hi-beam indicator light, put one or two layers of scotch tape behind the blue transparent panel it shines through. It really cuts the intensity down so that it is not so intrusive in the dashboard when on.
Alden
You have saved my day. Thank you. The fuses 5 and c was broken. I was nearby to change the elko s .
Excellent! Exactly what I love to hear. I suspect as these cars get older, the dashflash problem will happen more & more. Glad to be of help and great to hear it worked out for you!
Really appreciate your work here and this addresses the "Staying Alive" show that was inherent in my 300sl.
Excellent! When mine went bad it was a moment of despair for me. Did the research and then thought if it can happen to me, it can happen to other R129 owners too. Hence the video. Glad you liked it and hope it helps!
Alden
Yeah, my first guess with that is gong to be a bad ground somehow. It seems like it might be feeding power back through the hi-beam switch. Because the dash lights come on with the headlight switch, somewhere is a sort of back-door pathway that can feed voltage to the gauge? Dunno. I would look to see if the bulbs in the dash could be bridging to something. 'Tis a mystery.
Alden
Hi! I haven't had my temp gauge go bad, so I haven't had to fix it! I was lucky(?) that the dash went and I had the presence of mind to video my fix.
Believe me, if something breaks, that's when I will make a video of it!
Alden
Found out the sensor is the two prong one that sends the signal to trigger the radiator cooling fans. The single prong sender sends the signal to the temp gauge in the instrument cluster.
Dette var en meget fin informasjon,byttet sikring og gjorde godt rent(pusset med fin smergel)på kontaktene og flashinga ble borte,tommelen opp for fif fin informasjon
Oh by the way it's a 92 500SL. I fixed the ASR/ABS light due to a connection on a box next to the OVP. The SRS light was on also. Was a poor solder contact on one horn ring (actually air bag contact ring) under the steering wheel. Now I have the typical "only defrost / outer center vent" issue on climate control. And of course the TEMP and MPG in the cluster.
might be a good idea to replace those capacitors just to be on the safe side, thanks for the vid
Thank you ! Yes, knowing what I do now, I would definitely replace the capacitors on any of the early 90s versions of the R129 preemptively. Simple, inexpensive insurance. (it is pretty startling when the dash goes berserk the first time while you are driving. Better to nip it in the bud)
Alden
Hi!
The only things I can suggest are the things I outlined in the video, check the OVP relay. Good Fuses. Make sure the 4 connectors at the back of the dash are well-seated. I can also highly recommend the forums for BenzWorld org (I can't post it as a link in the comment) Browse their forums and post a question. A lot of expertise is there.
Am working on one just now that has had a Reverse charged battery installed, for abut 10 seconds, Never have I seen a person do this to a battery, First time for everything I guess , Thanks for this video, as today we managed to get a New battery in and have dash lights et al but Starter relay is bad, I have read that it may be behind the dash on 300sl R129.060 1993. Anyways great stuff this thancks
Yikes! Fortunately, if the ignition key was off, only a few circuits might be affected. The electrical system on R129s is so closely balanced (tons of power accessories) that voltage drops or surges can really wreak havoc. Definitely try all the controls to see if everything still works. (power seats, mirrors, the climate control, roll bar actuator etc)
It could be the bulb for the head light indicator in the cluster, since it isn't working now and it did before. If it's adding a short or added resistance in that circuit to the temp gauge then that would explain that issue. Looks like I have to remove the cluster again.
Hi!
I'm really not sure. I think the MPG gauge is mostly a vacuum gauge and the temp gauge is more of a direct wire to the sender. I don't have a wiring diagram for it though to be sure.
Alden
some one asked me the voltage of the caps. The 470uf was 16volts, the 100uf was 25 volts and the 47cap was 25volts. these are max voltage the cap can take with out shorting out. I am still smiling every time I use my turn signal NICE
I have the same issue the temp meter goes full beyond 120 degrees, but of course the engine is still cold. I did get the flashing light thing a couple times when using my turn signal lever, so maybe it's related. But since yours still doesn't work, then it must be the two lead temp sender/sensor that screws into the manifold that has failed or the harness is bad in that area due to heat exposure.
dash now working fantastic and bright, only problem now is the temp gauge needs fixing. Do you have a vid on this. i have a fair idea of how to do this but don't want to stuff anything up.
OK. Well I do have a vacuum problem. I think its the little black vacuum block or distributor valve in the engine bay. The temp could be the sender on the engine. Though I did get the flashing lights a couple times when using my turn signal, so I thought it might be related to that 470 µFarad cap in the cluster. I did try another sender I had from a 400E M119 engine and no change. Will have to try a new one to be sure.
I would like to thank you very very much. I find with this video the problem which I have with in a long time. My ElEC. All the way time tell me to change the hole dash. Now I have got it. Much greatful.
+Khalid Al-Qarni I am glad it helped you out. These are great cars and I am happy I can help people keep theirs on the road with a simple repair.
Alden
The previous owner of my 1992 R129 500SL had a cluster change in 2003 done at a main dealer. The invoice is on file and totals over 700GBP, so probably around $1100 USD. And I bet it was this damn simple fix.
Wow, that is huge! I hope it was replaced for other things besides a couple of capacitors, but you never know.
Alden
Mine was fuse 9.... fixed.
Interesting. I must have a short on the circuit board in the cluster. Now when I switch to high beams (with the signal stalk) it causes the temp needle to go all the way up.
Very nicely done, 2 thumbs up. Keep up the Great Work.
All I can say is THANK YOU!
Me, Mr all thumbs FIXED my cluster with the help of this video!!! WOW. I was sh*t Scared to even think about doing this but they wanted 400 bucks at my garage to R&R the cluster and send it out for a rebuild plus I would have to dive the car 100 miles each way to the Mechanic in Las Vegas, NV I live in a rural area 100 miles south of Vegas. I said screw it I am going to try BUT I did it a little different, I went on ebay and bought a broken cluster for 40 bucks to practice on I put the video on and sitting at my desk I followed along. I had to learn how to solder first and I had to buy solder and a de-solder tool. Then I had to buy the Caps. So I practiced on the old cluster I did it 3 x taking it apart and de soldering and soldering the caps. Plus when I first got the broken cluster and I opened it up I marked all the negative sides of the caps on the circuit board with a pen so I would get the polarity right. My cluster 92 500sl had 4 lights on the cluster and it had 470uf, 100uf and 47uf caps. I had a hard time desoldering the caps and kept burning my dam had with the Iron. Another thing, with the broken cluster I was able to mark my tool so I knew how far to push it in to the cluster and where to push it in and pull it out.
Conclusion: I did not crack the glass, no more dash flash AND I saved about 500 bucks too boot. AGAIN, THANK YOU who ever you are!
rioraton No one is more pleased than I am. This is what the internet was supposed to be all about. Now get out there and enjoy the season in one of the best convertibles ever made!
Alden
+rioraton
Hello
What was the volage of your capacitors
Sorry for the delay
470 uf cap was 16volt 100uf cap was 25volt & 47 uf cap was 25 volt these are max volts the cap can take. hope this helps
+rioraton Thanks I used a 470uf 25v and 100uf 16v, they seem to be working great, do you know anybody that knows how to fix my clock and odometer? Thanks
I have a clock and odometer in a 92 500sl cluster.
Do you capacitors typically effect the MPG and TEMP meters or needle accuracy?
Hello-thanks for the video. I did replace all 3 caps on mine..Still no success??.Only thing working is the engine temperature gauge?Any ideas which other circuit to test or replace?
Thx
@@fulltrottle123 how you sorted the problem have a same issue on mine
you are the man thanks for posting this video God bless you
Hello, and thank you so much for such a valuable video!!
I'm attempting to fix my dash-flash problem by replacing the 3 capacitors you indicated; but I've noticed something unusual on the back of the board (as if someone tried to fix it previously) a smeared silicon or bonding material on one of the chips. I don't know how to upload an image or if it is possible to do the upload here.
I know this is an older video; but I do appreciate any comments or suggestions.
if it's a bad board; do you suggest where can i get a replacement board, I don't prefer to change the entire cluster because i want to keep mileage accurate.
Thanks again!!
thanks 4 the great video my problem is solved (kind regards from Belgium) , I have changes the originals with 470 uF 25 V and 2 x 100 uF 16 V (i have paid 4,10 Euro)
Probleem oplossen als de lampjes flikkeren in het dashboard , verander dan de 3 condensators in de teller , ik heb de originele veranderd door 1 x 470 mF 25 V en 2 x 100mF 16 V en dit heeft mijn probleem opgelost voor maar 4,10 Euro
+Dirk Capiot Excellent! I'm glad I could help!
Blij dat ik kan helpen!
Alden
Great info!! Thank you for sharing.
Hi!
I looked very closely at mine before removing and saw 470uF. I do wonder if they changed them over the years or if mine had been replaced previously. Mine is a 1990 300SL, so maybe different years or models had different values? Dunno.
Alden
Hi, really helpful video thanks a lot! I just had one question. I get the dash flash when I indicate, I replaced all my fuses, checked the OVP relay and both the blade fuses were fine. But I do sometimes get other electrical issues and was wondering if it was possible that my OVP relay isn't working even if the fuses are fine? I just want to check before I have someone replace the capacitors in the instrument cluster you see.
Thanks in advance!
Yes, absolutely it can be the OVP, even though the fuses are fine. I'm not sure how you would check it other than swap in a known good one. I would also check the battery connections and any grounds. The early R129s are so voltage sensitive because of all of the power accessories they put on them. Any sag in voltage shows up as electrical gremlins in other systems. I found that especially if I was at an idle with a lot of things on (heater, headlights, radio etc) something in there would start flaking. Be sure to check the voltage regulator on the alternator as well. I do have a video on replacing that as well.
Alden
Hello the video was perfect but it didn't fix my problem. do you have any idee where i can look next.
Thanks
If your dash lights are still flashing after doing all the fixes in the video, the only things I can think of is the battery being low/corroded terminals or the alternator & voltage regulator being bad. Try changing the voltage regulator? The lights flash because the voltage to them is outside the operating range, either too high or too low, usually the new capacitors will fix this by keeping the voltage in range. Best of luck.
Alden
Dear Author, well done for the very helpful film guide. I have the same problem in my 300sl,checked all the first three easy options, but it must be the more difficult fourth option that may be causing my problem, so I shall be asking for professional help for this.Also,apart from flashing lights, do the gauges start working after repair is done? Thanks in advance for your guidance.
Thanks! The soldering is not difficult, but if you have never done it before, I do not recommend learning on this task. The stakes are too high if something goes wrong. Yes, the gauges all came back when I did the capacitor replacement. Everything worked as it should, the lights, gauges, radio, climate control etc. Best of luck in your repair.
Alden
I am glad that even the A/c starts working correctly after the repair is made, since a/c fans in the engine bay next to the radiator go on & off automatically on their own, most probably because of this capacitor issue. I don't know why this capacitor damage can affect climate control fans since the damage is in the instrument cluster and not in the a/c controls themselves.Anyway,thanks a lot once again for your help, will be informing you once the repair is made::))
awesome detailed video, thanks heaps very helpful
Glad det fungerte for deg!
On the PCB in the video, do you know of a resource that just sells those? I think I have a bad trace where the temp sender circuit is grounding with the high beam indicator. I could try a trace pen, but I believe it would be too thick a mil to do that repair.
Yes, Excellent Video. Purchased 470uf, 100uf and 47uf caps. They are so much smaller then the ones shown is that normal?
rioraton Yes, they could be. The originals are a design over 20 years old, and technology advances may have made a smaller package for the same microfarad ratings. (mine are from Radio Shack and seemed about the same size as the originals) Key thing: double check the polarity when you install them. It is really the most critical step, as if they are accidentally installed reversed, they won't work. Best luck on your repair!
Alden
Tha n
rioraton Like every thing else things have shrunk i guess. I noticed that there is a minus sign on the capacitors I purchased I hope there is a minus sign on the ones I remove from the board so I know which is negative and which is positive. Thanks again for you GREAT video
rioraton The minus side should have the shorter lead wire coming out of it. It's a great way to see how to orient it when you push it in through the circuit board. Look closely at the old one before you desolder it, or even take a photo to refer back to when the new one goes in.
Alden
I think I have a bad temp sender on the manifold or the wire that sends the signal to the cluster is faulty. Would you happen to know the Ω rating of the sender or sensor to test it?
i have the same trouble the cluster instrument no working only the oil pressure gauge work all the life work the meter also no work can some one help me about this issue thank you very much
I put the 470 µF cap in and I'm not get the short flash and SRS reset when I use the turn signals. Though no it looks like the high beam light indicator burned out. lol I do have a faulty coolant temp gage. Which sensor or sender provides that, the two wire or single wire on manifold? Or is it the the larger one with 4 wires?
eine super straßen lage, läßt sich sehr schön fahren, ein wunder schönes cabrio, mit einer wunder schönen sexy vorm, ich besitze ein sl r 129 300 24 v, bj 93 in blauschwarz metallic ///AMG
I think they are a beuatiful design as well, Bruno Saccos' masterpiece. Mine is a 1990 300-24 valve in black over gray. Great to drive and they really respond to care.
Ich finde, es ist auch ein wunderschönes Design, Bruno Saccos 'Meisterwerk. Mine ist ein 1990er 300-24-Ventil in Schwarz über Grau. Großartig zu fahren und sie reagieren wirklich auf die Fürsorge.
Bought capacitors today, 470MDF 25V 102C and(2) 100UF 12V 105C. Are these ok he didnt mention the voltage. There was voltage that were 16 up to 75 volts. Will these work?
Brian
+PERFORMANCELSE Hi! The ones I used, from Radio Shack, were rated 16volts. I'm not sure if ones rated lower, like 12V will be OK, as the charging circuit does put out slightly higher than that.
Alden
We recently bought a 500sl. It has not dash lights/ instrument panel lights. They said they hadn't driven it in a month or so and it had instrument lights previously. We don't have any lights flashing, just darkness. Would these steps be similar to follow for troubleshooting a dark dash? We replaced the old aluminum fuses with copper ones today and that didn't help it.
Hi! The fuses area good start. I would also try twisting/wiggling the knob on the instrument panel that dims/brightens the lights. (there should be two posts at the bottom of the panel on either side of the speedometer, one resets the clock, the other is a rheostat for the dash lights) Sometimes the contacts on that switch gets worn and can make a bad connection.)
Alden
all light in the dash go on and off sometimes (not always) when i use the indicator stalk... uo to now i thought is was my stalk getting faulty but after watching this video am not sure of its my stalk or the capacitors that need a replacement.... can you suggest what you think the fault is?
+Mike Avraamides Hi! When I have a problem like that I always check the connectors first. Loose wires often make strange circuit connections. So if you can pull the instrument cluster out (gently!) and make sure all the connectors are plugged tightly first. Check also for any wire that seems chafed or abraded: if the insulation is scuffed off the wire will easily ground out and cause a problem. I'm not sure how to check if it is just the switch, but if the capacitors are bad, they will make things flash when you use the turn signals. And as they get worse, the dash lights will flash all the time, even without using the turn signals. Mine went bad as I was making a right-hand turn and using the signal stalk, so it may be just at the point of failure on yours.
Hope this helps.
Alden
I noticed after replacing my 470 µF cap, the other two are 100 µF and 47 µF (15v).
Great video! My cluster went bananas a while ago, replacing the fuses sorted out most of the problem. However the oil pressure gauge acts kinda funny - it never goes above about 2,8 bar, and when the engine goes above 2.500 rpm, the pressure immediately drops to 0. The second the engine gets back below 2.500 rpm, the pressure is back.
I´ve ordered a new sensor, but I´m more or less convinced that the problem is inside the cluster.
I´ve tried to locate the capacitors over here in Norway, but I´m kind of lost. What should the rated voltage be? (VDC / VAC)
Would you happen to know any webstore that ships abroad? Eventually the part # at RadioShack?
Thank you very much :-)
Cheers
-Michael, Norway
I think the voltage rating on the capacitors was 16V. Not sure who ships overseas for electrical parts, but you might try the Radio Shack website. Here in the USA they were only about $2 each, as I recall.
Yes, the oil pressure gauge may just be an electrical fault in the dashboard. So many of these things work off of resistance that just a loose connector or ground can be enough to make them erratic.
Alden
FlashDriveFilms Thank you very much! I did some more testing yesterday by reading the oil pressure via the outdoor temperatur display, and the engine has indeed oil pressure although the gauge reads 0. So I think I´ll head over to Radio Shack and see if they ship abroad ;-) Thanks again!
Hi, I have a 300sl-24 and a similar problem. The cluster is almost completely blackout. The lights at the bottom and all instruments doesn't work. Only a short flashing of the red oil pressure gauge. Everything is dead. Checked everything, replaced the capacitors but without success. Now I bought another cluster and this one works. So the problem in inside the cluster. If someone has an idea, help me. I want my old cluster back installed, because I don't know if the other one is correct for my car... Maybe V8 instead of 6cyl.
my dash board light no flasihng only the cluster instrument odometer not working some one help please
Hello good afternoon mate, I have a w129 car, but my problem is that it does not work in km, nor the needle. Nothing works, you can help, thank you very much
Hi! What year is your R129? Is there any chance the dashboard was replaced with a later (LED digital odometer) version? When an entire thing doesn't work, I usually trace back form the fuses, connectors and grounds to make sure all is actually well hooked up.
Alden
hello 91
capacitor change anwser tomorow
thé small one was burned
hey I have a Mercedes Benz from 93 it's a 500SEL and I'm having trouble getting it started and it's staying started original first time I thought I needed a new wiring harness but that still didn't work is anybody have any ideas of what would cause that
Thanks the third capacitor on my 91 reads 47 uf. Does it matter if I replace with a 47 or 100 uf as you state.
Hi! If the original one you are taking out is 47uf , you should replace it with the same rating. On mine I replaced each with the same rating they originally had, rather than try to figure out an upgrade.
Alden
Just changed the capacitors still the same issue, the capacitors I got where 470uf 16v and 2 x 100uf 10v, but the capacitors don't look that big the 470uf size looks more like the 100uf I originally had in there, does it matter about the size or do they come in smaller sizes thanks
Hi! No the physical size of the capacitor should not matter. It is the actual uf rating that is significant. In fact, modern capacitors tend to be more compact than ones from 15-20 years ago. As far as the dash still flashing, if you have done all the other fixes, new copper fuses, the OVP relay is OK etc, and then the capacitors and it still flashes , you have me stumped. It is hard to diagnose car faults over the internet without actually seeing & testing what is going on.Bad ground? Bad voltage regulator? Hard to tell.
Alden
Hi! Dashboard light are totally dead, and the same time head lamps are ON always! Occasionally headlamps go off for a second or two, where the dashboard lights start to flash. When the headlamps ON dashboard lights go OFF, when dashboard light ON, headlamps go OFF. Majority of the time headlamps are on despite the switch is on 0, therefore the dash lights are off. Could you give me an advice how to fix this please?
+Ishan Panagoda Hi!
This sounds like it might be either a bad headlight switch or a bad ground somewhere? But I would first check the fuse panel under the hood and make sure there are no loose fuses and that the cables going to the fuse panel are tightly connected. Also: if your Benz is an early 1992 to 1996, and especially if it has the V8 engine, there may be a problem with the wiring harness. (www.slmarket.com/mercedes-benz-wiring-harness-issues-from-the-early-1990s-technical-q-and-a/) The insulation was of poor quality and does wear through, creating all sorts of Bad Things electrically. And the worst part is that if the harness is bad, the only real fix is a new harness, expensive & no fun to install.
But start with the fuse panel check first.
Alden
+FlashDriveFilms Thank you so much for the response. This is 2005 E- class, and Mercedes dealer asked me to come in for a diagnostic test which will cost me £150.
+Ishan Panagoda Oh. That's expensive. A 2005 is much newer than I have worked on. I've had 8 Mercedes cars that I worked on myself, but all were older than 1993. The newer ones will have a diagnostic port (OBDII) that the dealer will be able to plug into and determine the fault very quickly & accurately. The machine & software is fairly pricey, hence the 150 charge for it. You might search for an independent shop local to you, as they often have the same or similar equipment, but lower prices. Best of luck with it.
Alden
Hello, on my 470uf capacitor it's doesn't say what rating it is how ever it says 470-16, would this mean it's a 16v, also on one side it's says 59 and + does this me the negative is on the other side the capacitor is a frako, the other capacitor says 100uf 10v, and another one doesn't say much but frako on the side, would this be the same as the 100uf 10v one? , all help appriciated
Hi! Yes, the 470-16 is 16volts.(above that voltage the cap can fail, hence Mercedes using a Voltage Protection Relay with a fuse to try to stop that from happening.) the leads are generally marked with a minus sign -. I'm guessing that frako is the brand? Either way, the two 100uf capacitors should look physically exactly alike. Look also at the leads on the new replacement ones, they make one shorter than the other- that is the negative lead. It may have a black stripe on the side of the can to indicate that as well. Be sure you match the polarity with how the old ones come out of the board.
Good luck!
Alden
FlashDriveFilms , on my 470 one side has a plus sign so I take it the other side to be negative also judging by the other capacitors with the negitive sign as on the same side of the board, also another question I have is does it matter what operating temperature it needs to be I seen some at 85 degrees and some at 105 degrees all help appriciated
did this affect the digital clusters i have a 95 sl500
I don't believe so. I have never heard/read of any of the LED-digital clusters having a flash problem. Only the analog ones of the early 90s. Yours should be fine.
Alden
FlashDriveFilms found fuse 9 blown for turn signals and tail lights. it made very similar symotoms to this. thanks for the quick reply anyways.
Firas R129 fixed mine! (Dash flash no turn signals) Unreal! Thank you brother! One fuse! 95 320sl California car 170k like new!
hello ihave only 2 capacitor in m'y board
What year is your SL? The early ones have 3, not sure what ones beyond like 93-94 will be set up as.
Alden
i find thank à lot
Excellent! Good luck!!
Alden
hello succès!!!
only oil pressure no ok
Excellent! Oil pressure may just be a loose wire on the sender. Also check the fuse box for a blown or corroded fuse.
Alden
Yea must be. I have 470, 100, and one 47.