See Part 2 Of This Video: ruclips.net/video/DQZrYx2GAJs/видео.html Wiring Update: I Took the two Neutrals and disconnected them from the bolt on the box and simply twisted them together with a wire cover. I then ran a Green Ground Wire from the back of the plug where the two green ground wires (one from each 120V line coming in) are attached and I ran that wire to the bolt on the back of the metal box. This way, the electrical box is properly grounded at all times. Thank You to the commentators for pointing this out.
silverbankruptcy It amazes me the time and money spent to do something unsafe and illegal when for probably slightly more money, you could have put a two pole circuit breaker and installed a correct, code compliant receptacle. Your welder can not be working to its full extent. You turn it up and breaker will trip. Also, your shop or garage cannot be installed to any of the last several NEC issues. This setup will not work on any GFCI receptacle or breaker. This is single phase(that means one phase). All the garbage about 180 degrees out of phase, or out of sync is totally incorrect. People get this idea because an Oscope showes it that way. That is because of the Oscope and is not electrical reality. If the (2) 120 volts add together, then why do you not need a neutral to get 240 volts. I can't believe it but, you got a shock in the end and showed it. Watchers, please be safe! The life you save may be your own!
J.C. Kohle Unfortunately there are several of these videos on you tube. You are obviously from across the pond. There is no way to do this in your dwellings for multiple reasons. The guy that made this video admitted in another comment that it will not work with GFCI. The bad thing is, many are going to make these stupid things, plug them in, then try to use them and find that it was a total waste of time an money. Respectfully, Kevin
Raised a red flag here! @silverbankruptcy In RUclips Editor, add yourself a correction "caption" to pop up at the time of the mistake to further warn those not doing their homework. burn out something. This can be done without losing your current views. -Thanks, buddy P.S. The video is appreciated. Be sure to add that in the video someone might get hurt. -TIALKN
While this will work in many cases, there are multiple potential issues. The first that comes to mind is doing this for a 4 pin connection as on some appliances with both 120 volt and 240 volt circuitry in one appliance, such as motors separate from heating elements in dryers. The unbalanced load will produce an unbalanced voltage. House wiring becomes a complex electric circuit as soon as anything is turned on. Since wires have resistance, voltages will vary as the load changes. Tapping into both legs anywhere but at the breaker box introduces complexities which can easily lead to shocks. Codes exist for a reason. Please don’t encourage others to endanger themselves or others. Even a shock of a few volts can be disastrous in the wrong circumstances.
From the utility pole, the triplex you were referring (2 insulated and 1 bare twisted) to is 2 hots & a neutral . The bare neutral has a steel core (ACSR) which carries the weight/ strain of the service. The neural also carries the imbalance of the load, which is why you got a little shock from touching the case in which you tied the neutral to. The ground in the panel comes from the ground rods and ties into the panel.
Good Observation. I would suggest that the shock comes because I have an LED crossing the two hots, so that with only one side powered, a small amount of power travels across?
Which is still not right. The proper connection is to connect the grounds to the ground terminal and a pigtail to the box. Using the neutrals is not safe, because any load on either circuit could draw the neutral away from center, causing a differential between neutral and ground - a shock hazard, even if only a few volts.
Im finally about to try this bc I rent my home and I do not want pay electrician and my landlord is cheap I watch your update video on using it and that was enough I hope I don’t blow nothing nice video
I also want to try it out since I don’t want to pay for a dedicated 240v line. You may want to be careful since once you plug a device to the box your return will be the other open plug which will become hot. Also you may one day only blow only one of the phases fuses and end up shocking yourself as you disconnect your lines if you leave your device connected. Maybe add a lower rated 2 phase 240v breaker at the box which will trip both phases simultaneously. I really do like the LED. Good idea.
When I get a 240V Welder, I am going to test out your supposition, by putting a multimeter to one plug. Thanks for watching, and please subscribe for updates!
Ouch, No white neutrals connected to ground! The white neutral could back-feed from some other appliance in your home. That is the reason we have a separate ground at the Load Center (panel). A ground is a ground, is a ground, connect the GREEN wire to the box and to your new Receptacle Ground; blank terminate the white wires.
If nothing is plugged in, the open plug will not be hot, but if you plug in an appliance, the device will bridge the 120v though to the open plug. ‘Hopefully nothing blows up’
If you want to be able to weld anywhere and still live I recommend buying a gas powered generator. That's what I did and love the simplecity plus no extention cords running all over the place. On another note I have a power generator for when the lights go out in bad weather or my wife wants AC on a camping trip.
Did you ever plug in your welder to that adapter? Did it work? Why haven't you done a follow-up perhaps shows us some welding while plugged into this thing
Tjats a good idea. The problems I have so far is finding two separate lines that are able to provide 240v. The issue is also that the GFCI outlets blow because the Neutral lines are not connected and so the outlets are seeing an imbalance. I will take your recommendation and on a good whether day will do it.
That looks real dangerous! Your wiring at the receptacle & the circuit from the breaker should be max 25amp. You put a 50 amp receptacle on your receptacle box. Do more reading. You're way off any codes.
If you have 2 120v sockets that are on different circuits, if you use the 220 by connecting to each hot wire, what happens if another device is using the same circuit as one of them?
The two 120V sections would make 240 Volts. Starting another device on that circuit would be no problem as long as the demand does not exceed the Circuit breaker which in this case is 20Amps per circuit. Good Question and Thanks for Joining Us!
A 120 outlet will be 15 or 20 amp. If you are using two different outlets to get 240, the most you will get is 240 20 amps. Most 240 welders require atleast 30 amps 240.
Many portable generator welders are 5KW generators. I think that 240 x 20 Amp or 4800 watts is enough for most welding projects short of a true professional job. You should be able to run 7018 without a problem. I have burned 7018 on 120v x 20amp or 2400 watts with difficulty. So 4800 watts should be sufficient for most.
@@TheJohndeere466 ok. I wonder. What does the manufacturer recommend as sufficient. It's possible your using it beyond the duty cycle per minute by not resting it after some welding. I know we all do that.
I'm no electrician either....but presuming those are 2 120v 15 amp outlets/circuits, why would you put anything more than a 10/14-30 outlet in the box? I mean, my understanding is that it aint gonna pull more than 30 amps. But if the device you plug in wants 50 amps, and isn't smart enough to reduce it's draw, it's going to trip the breakers.
The fusebox has it connected to two 20AMP breakers which gives it 240V at 20 Amps, yes 20 Amps. That means the maximum it can draw is 4,800 Watts before triggering the breaker. This is more than enough for the welder. I don't know of any device that is a smart draw to prevent it blowing. That is an unnecessary added cost. The device works well, although licensed electrician get upset that they were not paid to do a more extensive and expensive wiring project.
He never said it,he just talks with the authority of a college professor, but with unknown real training. One could argue that this is the real problem with RUclips. Anyone can make a video on any topic, and sound like they are an expert. Will this work? Yes. Is it safe? Maybe. The National Electrical Code exists for a reason. There is nobody stopping him, or you, form doing this, but if he burns down his house and an insurance inspector finds this laying on his workbench, they would likely deny his claim of insurance.
Yes it will work as far as I understand but a welder usually is on a 50 amp breaker. You are using two 20 amp Breakers. I'm not electrician but I do understand 110 + 220 electricity
Yup, in order to be safe. You would also have to locate the 2 circuits being utilized, and temporarily swap them with a 2 pole breaker. By code, 2 pole+ applications must be on the same throw, so all circuits turn off/trip in case of a fault. Seperate breakers controlling one outlet means the potential that one will trip, and the other will not when it becomes imbalanced
why did you not use the two neutrals ,, as opposed to using the two grounds ,, as you did ,, voltage is usually hot to neutral ,,the ground wires usually are connected to the metal case !!
The most important thing here is keeping people safe, and the insurance inspector that tells you that you won't get paid after your house burns down. Remember that code is a minimum, not just a bar to try and get close to.
ive seen a few videos creating this and they all are using 10 maybe 8 ga short wires to 2 plugs, then plug them into 2 different outlets which only are wired with long runs of 14 maybe 12 ga wire back to the panel What's the point of using this heavy gauge wire? I see everyone struggling with it?
You need at least 12 guage to be able to carry the Amperage orAmps to power the welder. Online will tell you what each wire can handle. 12 Guage is good.for 20 Amps. So 240 Volts X 20 Amps = 4800 Watts to power a welder. That should be fine f0r most applications, but read the manual to make sure!
dan NEWYORK as a licensed electrician I ask you that you do not do this. Ever. You don’t need a 208-240v air conditioner you can easily find a 110-120v A/C available that will work just fine. If you think arguing that the higher voltage would produce a better result. I would say that different would not be significant enough because of size of the rooms in Apts for you to risk electrocuting yourself, overloading and blowing out by overloading the breaker or creating a fire hazard. Amazon, OfferUp, HomeDepot, etc. It’s 2020 have safer and surer options. Do Not Try this. If you want to properly install a 220v outlet call an expert or look up how to properly install yourself. Yes, There are videos on RUclips that showcase that. I’ve checked.
So I'm trying to run Led Grow light. 2000 watts a piece. I got a 240 outlet would I be able to get their full potential. And how big of gauge would I need for my extension cord
I think that's possible, but not advised since unless you know the Circuit you could have a short (I am told that Phase is the wrong word to describe each half of a split 240V Breaker that we have in the US). what i am doing here for 240V is totally Fail Safe as at worst it does not do anything. a For Your Purpose wire it directly to a 50Amp circuit using the appropriate gauge wire to a 14-50 Nema Outlet.
You can do it as long as you can regulate the amps if not I’ll blow breakers I have made one similar for emergency 14-50 for my Tesla but I’m able to turn down amps I only use 18-20amps
Just as an aside, it's illegal to branch a 120v line for lighting off a dedicated 220v outlet. Why I'm not sure, I had to install a dedicated 220v outlet (10ga wire) for a dryer, guess it could be used for a welder since it's in the garage but I had to install a separate 14ga 120v 20amp outlet just for the lighting.
TruAnRksT Information for you. Circuits are based on voltage and amps. It would be weird but legal to have #12 run to 120 volt 120 volt receptacles. The one you were trying to come off of is probably 30 amp breaker and receptacle. You can not connect #12or #14 to a 30amp circuit. Circuit breakers are installed to protect the conductors from overheating and deteriorating. If you actually ran #14 to your lights and installed a 20 amp breaker, you really need to change the breaker to a 15 amp breaker to be legal and safe. Respectfully, Kevin
@@KevinCoop1 I can't say for sure what breaker was used, it was ten years ago. And the wire itself may have actually been #12 because that's mostly what I had. But I expected it to feed a single light above the dryer with the option to install more lighting, which never happened. I don't see why you are being so anal about it anyway a short circuit or overload on #14 will just as easily trip a 20A breaker as a 15A. Originally the house only had a single 30 amp fuse for the entire house all on one two wire feed. And all of the internal wiring was done with #14 except for the two single wires that were strung over the drive way from a post in the yard where the shutoff and fuse were to the house. No wire nuts, it was all twisted together with friction tape (sometimes) and no earth ground anywhere. The house was built in 1947. I'm quite sure it's much safer now than it was originally. Oh did I mention that I replaced all of the structural flooring, every inch of plumbing, every inch of wiring every inch of drywall, all of the windows with new double pane units and replaced the roof all by myself? As well as every single switch, outlet and light fixture sinks, toilet, and shower. Even cut and threaded all the piping. Hey, you don't have to live there so bite me.
While the concept is fine, the fact your using 15 amp plugs on the 120 V side to make 240 V at 50 A also put you in a position of tripping breakers and melting wires inside the home. The plug/outlet more than likely will melt under this condition considering you’re using a welder especially a welder that is designed for a 50 amp plug you talking about 80% of 50 being 40 A while the 80% roll of 15 A is 12 which would mean you’re overloading the cable/plug by nearly 3 times it’s Rating I implore you do not follow this guy’s instructions or recommendations if you have no clue what the fuck you’re doing you are going to burn your house down if you follow this guy.
To all watching. If you have newer house with GFCI breakers, this will NOT work. Suggest to always do correctly installed circuits and receptacles! The life you save may be your own!
Tiktokvidz The reason you can not do this with GFCI breakers is the way GFCI's work. The line and neutral conductors inside the breaker are run through a current transformer. Since both conductors are inside the doughnut, the transformer makes zero volts. If 5 milliamperes of current goes somewhere other than on those two conductors, the breaker will trip. (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) Is there a way around it? Yes! Have a correctly sized receptacle, conductors, and breaker installed within the rules of the current NEC or Code adopted in the area which you live. Please do not try to do this stupid stuff! Respectfully, Kevin
@@KevinCoop1 Hahahaha fair enough. See my problem is I was hoping to go this route at my job to charge my electric car at a quicker rate than just using a 110
@@KevinCoop1 Charging at both but I'm allowed at work. I'm a paramedic so I'm able to charge at different bases. Most have a dryer outlet or a stove outlet that I can plug into but there are 2 out of 9 that don't have any option except for the 110
That’s also not a 20 amp rated plug so if that’s really a 10 gauge cable why is it on a 15 amp plug which is rated for 14 gauge. All of the screams fire hazard
You bound neutral to the box oooooof not a good idea at all. It’s not like neutral is being used to carry either of those two circuits used energy from the hot back to the grid so you know it’s not like there’s any potential difference for a potential shock you know.
I would be careful with this thing, when something is plugged in and you unplug one of the plugs you can get seriously shocked. Maybe add a dual pole relay in the box which switches both ''hots'' both with a 120VAC coil, to their own plug.
Actually, adding a relay places a load across the two legs, ensuring a shock. Sounds good at first, but not the solution. There is no safe way to use this device.
@@TomCee53 Correct but only the relay coil current will shock you. Maybe a better solution is to use 2 120VAC relay coils for each leg one seperate. I edited my post for this now.
@@TomCee53 No i mean one relay coil on one 120V plug L-N. And a second relay coil on the second 120V plug L-N. Not between the legs. The 120V plug + coil is only connected to the rest of the system if 120V is applied to the plug (ergo it is plugged in).
If your light bulbs were not the same size (like 60w and 100w), they will not balance the voltage, and the smaller bulb will get too much voltage and burn out. I suspect that’s what happened.
I just purchased this from Amazon. I was going to make one until I saw this. What do you think? Parkworld 886115 Combiner I want to use it for 2 small inverter generators to make 240v to hook to my generator outside 30 amp l14 30.
I wouldn't feel guilty buying it. Making it will probably save you $20- $30. If you have the patience, you can make it yourself obviously. It depends how busy you are in life. Life is often about a Time/Money Tradeoff.
You CANNOT use these from two generators because they're not in sync. The voltage would be continuously drifting from 120V to 240V and back again. With generators, they can only be used with a single generator that has two 120V/15A circuit windings and doesn't already have a 240V outlet.
I am an electrician this is extremely dangerous if you have something plugged in the receptal and only one cord plugged in and touch the hot prong and ground you will be shocked and maybe be electrocuted!!!!!!
Thank you! This dude is a moron! He bonded the neutral which is so freaking wrong. I would fire anybody who worked for me who did anything close to this. The guy needs to stop making videos.
Wrong wrong wrong. 2 120 v and neutral comes from the power grid not ground. Ground is bonded to neutral in the main panel for the house in any sub panel ground is a separate Block directly wire to ground literally metal rod in your ground neutral is not ground. While combining two separate 120 V circuits one on each of the legs so the two 120 V legs coming in your house does make 240 V you must combine a 120 V leg with neutral to get 120. Never treat ground as neutral ground is literally intended for hard faults that’s why the cable in the wall is bare copper it’s not intended to carry a load. If it was intended to carry a load it would be shielded with a Coating hence why you usually notice a black and white and copper cable when wiring an outlet unless you’re dealing with a switch outlet or a 240 V dedicated circuit using a red instead of white
If you are talking about in the United States, Just Pull power from only One Side of the 240V Line and a ground. In Europe this is not possible, as they have 240V on one hot line.
“I don’t have the information with me” & “I can only speak about my area” translation: “I have no idea wtf I’m talking about and am attempting to explain a topic that is way above my level of understanding to others who have little to no understanding of this subject matter thereby reproducing my ignorance and perpetuating urban myths and other societal misunderstandings” God that shit is so annoying, it makes it IMPOSSIBLE to find the answers one is looking for because you have to sift through the thousands of videos of people who are convinced they know what they’re talking about and makes you second guess those who actually DO know what they’re talking about. P.S. I’m one of the ones who has NO IDEA what they’re talking about, I’m NOT an electrician, I’m just looking for an above all else SAFE way to run 240V to my apartment garage from the panel located inside of my apartment, so far I’m out of luck, or maybe I’m not, I just haven’t found a video made by someone I trust enough to follow their information.
I run into the same thing on so called "instructional" video's about changing FWD car wheel bearing. "Mechanic" gets the steering knuckle or hub holder off the car. No matter what you call it it is the piece that turns when steering wheel is turned and the brake caliper bolts to it. Once the hub is extracted which is usually done with a slide hammer puller bolted to 2 lug studs then you have taken the spooned end of the axle out the back and you have the steering knuckle free. Although it can be left on the car you need the right bearing puller and press to do it on the car. Backyard guys always take it off so they can position it on wood blocks to remove the outer race and here is where the expertise comes in. More than one DIY video shows a guy stick the head of a sledge hammer in the hole once the retaining (snap) rings are removed to allow the bearing to be pushed out and they OMG! I swear : They take a four pound hammer and start swinging wildly and STRIKING THE PROTRUDING FACE OF THE SLEDGE WITH THE 4 LB. In other words the sledge hammer head is used as a heavy duty drift or means to apply force and push the remnants of the old bearing, the outer race out of the steering knuckle. Of course these "pro's" don't bother wearing safety glasses because they are blissfully unaware that they are violating a basic common sense safety practice which is. NEVER strike the face of 2 hammers together!
You are correct, no permits required. Specifically because no permit would be allowed for this kind of half-assed, mickey mouse setup. The breaker panel is right there. It probably would have cost less to do it correctly. This is as stupid as when people make stinger cords so they can plug their generator into the dryer outlet.
The Problem is, You Need 60 Amp Wiring to the switch. How would you get that? Theoretically 6 plugs would be needed with each set of three plugs wired into outlets that are on the same side of the fusebox, or else there is a short. I think you need a dedicated outlet at that point. This solution is fail-safe and easy to do and gives you 240V that are easy to use.
You can do it as long as you can regulate the amps if not I’ll blow breakers I have made one similar for emergency 14-50 for my Tesla but I’m able to turn down amps I only use 18-20amps
So you buy and use a welder that requires say a 50 amp line at 8 gauge wire and you plug it into your hacked outlet with 20 amp breakers and only 12 gauge wire and say the breakers for some insane reason don't trip. What do you think will happen? On that outlet, it is stated 50 amps. Your line is dangerously underrated! You need to do a video update on how stupid and dangerous this video hack is. Get a dedicated line installed by someone qualified and stay safe!
Thank You for your comment. Two 20Amp 120V Lines are 40Amp Total, which is more than enough for the welder. That's why it works. Problem is it blows a GFCI outlet, because the Neutrals are not connected so they don't provide feedback for the GFCI outlet, making it appear falsely that there is a full short, triggering the GFCI to blow.
@@silverbankruptcy nooooo!!! You don't "add" 20 plus 20 = 40. A 2 pole 20 amp (20 on each side) or two single 20 is still 20 amp. Google a 40 amp 2 pole breaker and you'll see what I mean. Also, your'e blowing the gfci outlet because its rated only 20 amp max but it's sensing much more when your'e welding. In other words, your"e overloading both lines.
@@kato1400 I think your partially right. Its still 20amps but it's now multiplied by 240 volts so its same amps but it is double the watts. The GFCI blows because the white wires are not used so it can't monitor the voltage used so it blows.
He’s not partially right he is 100% correct that is 240 V at 20 A not 40 A. My most recent comments literally spell out multiple disasters waiting to happen this is beyond unsafe dude do not use this take this fucking video down you know Your gonna kill yourself you’re gonna be responsible for other people becoming injured. You do not know what the fuck you’re talking about you’re not qualified if you’re going to do DIY work at least make sure you have a fucking understanding of what you’re doing there’s plenty of electricians on here that actively go over how your panel works how wire gauge works how breaker ratings works heat sensing trips and overload trips Bing two separate things the fact that this thing is set up the way it is it 100% going to overload the 12 gauge why are you having your walls the outlet you’re connecting to the plug at south on the 120 V lines are using. The fact you bound two different neutrals from two different circuits together hang up shocked says more than enough that you should not be doing this.
Just disconnect the hot wire at the breaker and alligator clip it to one hot lug and take the white wire and alligator clip it to the other hot lug. 240 volts and the main breaker is unlikely to trip.
You only have one phase going to your home. That single phase is split (split phase) into two legs, each measuring 120V to neutral because of how the utility transformer is configured. Here's an illustration: imagine having to AA batteries connected in series. If you measure the voltage across just one of those batteries, you measure about +1.5V. if you leave the lead that is contacting between the batteries where it is and move the lead from the end of the first battery to the end of the second battery, you now read about -1.5V. But you wouldn't claim that you have two batteries out of 'phase', one positive while one is negative. The meter read + and then - only because of the reference point. So if we connect an oscilloscope on our two single phase home line voltage legs, we would see a single sine wave being produced. Well, I think this is correct, but I'm open to feedback or correction. Peace
@@silverbankruptcy ... Thanks for the response. I'm in my first year of an electrical apprenticeship. I wanted to better understand the power transmission and supply so I did some studying.
@truth be told From a guy that completed his apprenticeship 30 years ago you aren't quite there yet. It will come eventually. If you hook a scope to both phases the sine wave will just be twice as 'tall' as hooking it to a single phase circuit. 3 phase circuits is where you will see a 'different' sine wave. Stay away from giving advice about electricity to people out of the trade, just like getting medical advice from those who aren't doctors. Besides all of the code requirements from national and local codes that must be followed for safety purposes the basic knowledge required is, as you know, a skill set that takes years to master. Besides the risk of electrocution there are risks of fires from performing electrical work without skilled training. It angers me to hear of electrical fires because I guarantee that the work is never done by a licensed electrician, it's by someone that thinks that they know what they are doing. Sometimes they get away with it but when they don't lives are at stake. IMHO It is irresponsible for this guy to give electrical advice on RUclips. The industry has been good to me, continue your training and learn from the 'old masters' at the jobsite. Best of luck to you in your career.
He shocked him self in the video because he found two separate neutral lines from two different circuits into one box causing potential and he got shocked. What also will happen is a fire because the 120 V plugs are not rated for 50 A the outlets he’s using on the 120 V side is not rated for 50 A the cable in the wall is not rated for the same thing the breakers are not rated for it so best case scenario you get a small shock from the neutral being bound. Worst case scenario you melt the plug melt the 120 V line in your wall and your trip the breaker well that’s not the worst that’s next to worst the absolute worst will be a fire because everything here is severely underrated for the application you combine to 120 V breakers at 20 A that makes 240 V at 20 A he has 240 V at 50 amp plug and appliance being the welder
I've seen many RUclipsrs qualify their content by claiming no responsibility if you make a serious mistake, and that's for normal code compliant instructions. Not here, when this is wildly illegal and dangerous. If you're familiar with the phrase "knows enough to be dangerous" this is it.
@@fromagefrizzbizz9377 the Disclaimer does not help anything and while anyone can sue for anything, I have no relationship with viewers that they can a that they relied upon for safety. If anything, I am not claiming that this is safe, so if you want a completely safe life, go visit a children's channel.
@@silverbankruptcy I do vastly lot more DIY electrical work than you do. Wired several houses from scratch, countless modifications and minor renovations, and co-wrote a FAQ on residential wiring that even the US military has asked to borrow for their trainee electricians to use. Surprised the heck out of us, but they explained that they really like our simple language for their trainee electricians to grasp the basics, and they'll layer the fine detail of their code on top in the hands-on training. You know what? ALL my work is to code, safe and passed by inspection. Children's channel? Guffaw. Exactly, your disclaimer doesn't help anything. Even so, fact that you don't feel responsible in deliberately encouraging unsafe wiring simply means you don't care if any of your viewers kill themselves. I find that appalling. It's even worse that you simply don't understand the various failure modes/hazards of what you're proposing. Let me explain a couple: - If one breaker trips, the other is still live, *including* the plug prongs on the blown breaker side if the device is switched on. - 14ga on a 20A line? No cookie. 14ga does get warm when you push it to 15A. Couldn't you have spent a few bucks on 2' of 12ga medium/rough-duty flexible cord (like SJTW or SOOW?), with 20A plugs to match? - The reason that the code is as strict as it is is because they're trying to idiot-proof it. Sure, you may remember the precautions, but will everyone who may encounter it? You could have done this job *cheaper* by converting the 120V circuit that feeds nothing else into a fully code-compliant 240V/20A outlet, needing only a dual 20A breaker, a 240V receptacle of the required size, and a few inches of black electrical tape. I did exactly the same thing a few weeks ago while upgrading a 120V instant heater to 240V. There's already several youtube videos on how to do this.
@@fromagefrizzbizz9377 look, I don't doubt your credentials. But you can't have your own facts. I am running 12 Guage wiring on two 20 AMP outlets. It's perfectly safe. If one side blows then the welder will not run and will shut off. It's perfectly safe. But it saves money for those people who cannot afford your overly designed and overly expensive services. My viewers aren't military procurement officers. Sometimes the cheap solution is the only solution either reach. This video is not about searching for the perfect solution.
Raised a red flag here! @silverbankruptcy In RUclips Editor, add yourself a correction "caption" to pop up at the time of the mistake to further warn those not doing their homework. burn out something. This can be done without losing your current views. -Thanks, buddy P.S. The video is appreciated. Be sure to add that in the video someone might get hurt. -TIALKN
it's hard to stay awake watching this video. my concern is what he is proposing is illegal & mickey mouse. the breaker panel is right there where he is working! why not do it right ? if your going to work in other peoples properties make an extension cord/adaptor to plug into their dryer outlet, or better still, buy a gas welder. sadly there many ways to shortcut wiring installs that are both an electrocution & fire hazards.
Funny Electricians make fun of people who put up tutorials like this when for emergencies purposes I’ve seen 1st hand electricians do this I’m one of them lol again I agree by no means a permanent solution but sometimes got do whatcha gotta do
You really think the people watching this are only gonna use this as at temp solution ? Be smart and run a 10 gauge dedicated run terminating under a double pole breaker
Well when you stuff bare wires in an outlet with no plug your asking for it then. The plug concept works but is not ideal. For a few reasons. The breakers are not joined with a bar to trip at same time. Wire gauge for the amp draw. Disconnect 1 of 2 plugs with load connected leaves the disconnected plug powered.
See Part 2 Of This Video: ruclips.net/video/DQZrYx2GAJs/видео.html
Wiring Update: I Took the two Neutrals and disconnected them from the bolt on the box and simply twisted them together with a wire cover. I then ran a Green Ground Wire from the back of the plug where the two green ground wires (one from each 120V line coming in) are attached and I ran that wire to the bolt on the back of the metal box. This way, the electrical box is properly grounded at all times. Thank You to the commentators for pointing this out.
silverbankruptcy It amazes me the time and money spent to do something unsafe and illegal when for probably slightly more money, you could have put a two pole circuit breaker and installed a correct, code compliant receptacle. Your welder can not be working to its full extent. You turn it up and breaker will trip. Also, your shop or garage cannot be installed to any of the last several NEC issues. This setup will not work on any GFCI receptacle or breaker. This is single phase(that means one phase). All the garbage about 180 degrees out of phase, or out of sync is totally incorrect. People get this idea because an Oscope showes it that way. That is because of the Oscope and is not electrical reality. If the (2) 120 volts add together, then why do you not need a neutral to get 240 volts. I can't believe it but, you got a shock in the end and showed it. Watchers, please be safe! The life you save may be your own!
There is only one neutral however how many are in the wire, they are common at the source and common with earth ground.
J.C. Kohle Unfortunately there are several of these videos on you tube. You are obviously from across the pond. There is no way to do this in your dwellings for multiple reasons. The guy that made this video admitted in another comment that it will not work with GFCI. The bad thing is, many are going to make these stupid things, plug them in, then try to use them and find that it was a total waste of time an money. Respectfully, Kevin
@@KevinCoop1 Oh STFU. I't not your house.
Raised a red flag here!
@silverbankruptcy
In RUclips Editor, add yourself a correction "caption" to pop up at the time of the mistake to further warn those not doing their homework. burn out something. This can be done without losing your current views.
-Thanks, buddy
P.S. The video is appreciated. Be sure to add that in the video someone might get hurt.
-TIALKN
While this will work in many cases, there are multiple potential issues. The first that comes to mind is doing this for a 4 pin connection as on some appliances with both 120 volt and 240 volt circuitry in one appliance, such as motors separate from heating elements in dryers.
The unbalanced load will produce an unbalanced voltage.
House wiring becomes a complex electric circuit as soon as anything is turned on. Since wires have resistance, voltages will vary as the load changes. Tapping into both legs anywhere but at the breaker box introduces complexities which can easily lead to shocks. Codes exist for a reason. Please don’t encourage others to endanger themselves or others. Even a shock of a few volts can be disastrous in the wrong circumstances.
From the utility pole, the triplex you were referring (2 insulated and 1 bare twisted) to is 2 hots & a neutral . The bare neutral has a steel core (ACSR) which carries the weight/ strain of the service. The neural also carries the imbalance of the load, which is why you got a little shock from touching the case in which you tied the neutral to. The ground in the panel comes from the ground rods and ties into the panel.
Good Observation. I would suggest that the shock comes because I have an LED crossing the two hots, so that with only one side powered, a small amount of power travels across?
@@silverbankruptcy so the led cause that little shock on the case?
@@stephen8385 Exactly. It carries just enough current across to provide a mild shock. Not a serious shock.
@@silverbankruptcy thankyou, i may not use the light if thats the case..
@@stephen8385 That's a valid point. The purpose of the light is to display when 240V is found between the two wires. It's helpful but not necessary.
great job bonding both neutrals to the box .
I know, unbelievable!
Which is still not right. The proper connection is to connect the grounds to the ground terminal and a pigtail to the box.
Using the neutrals is not safe, because any load on either circuit could draw the neutral away from center, causing a differential between neutral and ground - a shock hazard, even if only a few volts.
Im finally about to try this bc I rent my home and I do not want pay electrician and my landlord is cheap I watch your update video on using it and that was enough I hope I don’t blow nothing nice video
That's great! please keep us updated!
I also want to try it out since I don’t want to pay for a dedicated 240v line. You may want to be careful since once you plug a device to the box your return will be the other open plug which will become hot. Also you may one day only blow only one of the phases fuses and end up shocking yourself as you disconnect your lines if you leave your device connected. Maybe add a lower rated 2 phase 240v breaker at the box which will trip both phases simultaneously. I really do like the LED. Good idea.
When I get a 240V Welder, I am going to test out your supposition, by putting a multimeter to one plug. Thanks for watching, and please subscribe for updates!
Ouch, No white neutrals connected to ground! The white neutral could back-feed from some other appliance in your home. That is the reason we have a separate ground at the Load Center (panel). A ground is a ground, is a ground, connect the GREEN wire to the box and to your new Receptacle Ground; blank terminate the white wires.
Thank you! See My Comment Above on my rewiring it! Thank you!
If nothing is plugged in, the open plug will not be hot, but if you plug in an appliance, the device will bridge the 120v though to the open plug.
‘Hopefully nothing blows up’
Thats correct. Main thing is not to touch the plug prongs when the other one is plugged in.
If you want to be able to weld anywhere and still live I recommend buying a gas powered generator. That's what I did and love the simplecity plus no extention cords running all over the place. On another note I have a power generator for when the lights go out in bad weather or my wife wants AC on a camping trip.
I now understand why people do that. So easy, no problems.
Very informative video. I learned a lot. Thank you.
Did you ever plug in your welder to that adapter? Did it work? Why haven't you done a follow-up perhaps shows us some welding while plugged into this thing
Tjats a good idea. The problems I have so far is finding two separate lines that are able to provide 240v. The issue is also that the GFCI outlets blow because the Neutral lines are not connected and so the outlets are seeing an imbalance. I will take your recommendation and on a good whether day will do it.
You Inspired me, See My Part 2: ruclips.net/video/DQZrYx2GAJs/видео.html
@@silverbankruptcy for sure I'll check it out. 👍
By no circumstances do this , it is illegal and if there were to be a fire and they find this insurance may not pay off
That looks real dangerous! Your wiring at the receptacle & the circuit from the breaker should be max 25amp. You put a 50 amp receptacle on your receptacle box. Do more reading. You're way off any codes.
If you have 2 120v sockets that are on different circuits, if you use the 220 by connecting to each hot wire, what happens if another device is using the same circuit as one of them?
The two 120V sections would make 240 Volts. Starting another device on that circuit would be no problem as long as the demand does not exceed the Circuit breaker which in this case is 20Amps per circuit. Good Question and Thanks for Joining Us!
A 120 outlet will be 15 or 20 amp. If you are using two different outlets to get 240, the most you will get is 240 20 amps. Most 240 welders require atleast 30 amps 240.
Many portable generator welders are 5KW generators. I think that 240 x 20 Amp or 4800 watts is enough for most welding projects short of a true professional job. You should be able to run 7018 without a problem. I have burned 7018 on 120v x 20amp or 2400 watts with difficulty. So 4800 watts should be sufficient for most.
@@silverbankruptcy my Lincoln buzz box will trip a double 40 amp breaker while running 1/8" 7018
@@TheJohndeere466 ok. I wonder. What does the manufacturer recommend as sufficient. It's possible your using it beyond the duty cycle per minute by not resting it after some welding. I know we all do that.
@@silverbankruptcy Mfg recommends double 50 amp breaker
@@TheJohndeere466 that's a lot. You have a point!
If you unplug one plug and touch the hot prong on unplugged, you become the ground and say light out the old heart stops
Your “out of phase” shouldn’t your ground be connected to box, not neutral.
correct see My Update as a Pinned Comment
I'm no electrician either....but presuming those are 2 120v 15 amp outlets/circuits, why would you put anything more than a 10/14-30 outlet in the box? I mean, my understanding is that it aint gonna pull more than 30 amps. But if the device you plug in wants 50 amps, and isn't smart enough to reduce it's draw, it's going to trip the breakers.
The fusebox has it connected to two 20AMP breakers which gives it 240V at 20 Amps, yes 20 Amps. That means the maximum it can draw is 4,800 Watts before triggering the breaker. This is more than enough for the welder. I don't know of any device that is a smart draw to prevent it blowing. That is an unnecessary added cost. The device works well, although licensed electrician get upset that they were not paid to do a more extensive and expensive wiring project.
Remember: he is not an electrician, he is "guessing". Guessing with electricity qualifies you for a Darwin Award.
Did he say that he was an electrician? If he did, could you give me the minute mark when he said it, thanks👍
He never said it,he just talks with the authority of a college professor, but with unknown real training. One could argue that this is the real problem with RUclips. Anyone can make a video on any topic, and sound like they are an expert.
Will this work? Yes. Is it safe? Maybe. The National Electrical Code exists for a reason. There is nobody stopping him, or you, form doing this, but if he burns down his house and an insurance inspector finds this laying on his workbench, they would likely deny his claim of insurance.
@@TomCee53 It is not safe and it is a major fire hazard. He has two 20 amp circuits on a 30 amp welder? What an idiot.
I just simply got a two pole circuit and the wire needed to run 240 volts and it only took me about 45 minutes..... If even that.
Yes it will work as far as I understand but a welder usually is on a 50 amp breaker. You are using two 20 amp Breakers. I'm not electrician but I do understand 110 + 220 electricity
Yup, in order to be safe. You would also have to locate the 2 circuits being utilized, and temporarily swap them with a 2 pole breaker. By code, 2 pole+ applications must be on the same throw, so all circuits turn off/trip in case of a fault. Seperate breakers controlling one outlet means the potential that one will trip, and the other will not when it becomes imbalanced
Can you provide the link for the video you watched that guided you on this? I can’t see “Description” only Comments.
I am sorry, Its been so long, I forgot. See if it comes up in youtube.
ok 2 questions 1- what is your amp rating from each 120v outlet and what is your final 240v amp rating from the combiner
20amp for individuals which gives you 20Amp at 240V. Not bad.
why did you not use the two neutrals ,, as opposed to using the two grounds ,, as you did ,, voltage is usually hot to neutral ,,the ground wires usually are connected to the metal case !!
You Are Correct! See updated pinned notes
The most important thing here is keeping people safe, and the insurance inspector that tells you that you won't get paid after your house burns down. Remember that code is a minimum, not just a bar to try and get close to.
Insurance companies cannot deny coverage because of homeowner error. That's how many fires get started. Best to be safe.
ive seen a few videos creating this and they all are using 10 maybe 8 ga short wires to 2 plugs, then plug them into 2 different outlets which only are wired with long runs of 14 maybe 12 ga wire back to the panel What's the point of using this heavy gauge wire? I see everyone struggling with it?
You need at least 12 guage to be able to carry the Amperage orAmps to power the welder.
Online will tell you what each wire can handle. 12 Guage is good.for 20 Amps.
So 240 Volts X 20 Amps = 4800 Watts to power a welder.
That should be fine f0r most applications, but read the manual to make sure!
This is good idea for an apartment where you don’t have 220 like for an air conditioner
dan NEWYORK as a licensed electrician I ask you that you do not do this. Ever. You don’t need a 208-240v air conditioner you can easily find a 110-120v A/C available that will work just fine. If you think arguing that the higher voltage would produce a better result. I would say that different would not be significant enough because of size of the rooms in Apts for you to risk electrocuting yourself, overloading and blowing out by overloading the breaker or creating a fire hazard. Amazon, OfferUp, HomeDepot, etc. It’s 2020 have safer and surer options. Do Not Try this. If you want to properly install a 220v outlet call an expert or look up how to properly install yourself. Yes, There are videos on RUclips that showcase that. I’ve checked.
So I'm trying to run Led Grow light. 2000 watts a piece. I got a 240 outlet would I be able to get their full potential. And how big of gauge would I need for my extension cord
For 240 you want 10g I think that's what I just learned from another video but do your own research and be careful
Hopefully you'll get some footage of you using your new welder!
Yep! As soon as I get a Harbor Freight Coupon!
Awesome, can't wait!
@@silverbankruptcy a year has gone bye, you get your coupon?
@@markkrusemer526 yes. See my Harbor freight shopping spree video.
@@silverbankruptcy supply the link. :)
Could you do this with four 120 outlets with two on each phase for 30 amps per side in a 14-50nema? For a motorhome
I think that's possible, but not advised since unless you know the Circuit you could have a short (I am told that Phase is the wrong word to describe each half of a split 240V Breaker that we have in the US). what i am doing here for 240V is totally Fail Safe as at worst it does not do anything. a For Your Purpose wire it directly to a 50Amp circuit using the appropriate gauge wire to a 14-50 Nema Outlet.
You can do it as long as you can regulate the amps if not I’ll blow breakers I have made one similar for emergency 14-50 for my Tesla but I’m able to turn down amps I only use 18-20amps
Just as an aside, it's illegal to branch a 120v line for lighting off a dedicated 220v outlet. Why I'm not sure, I had to install a dedicated 220v outlet (10ga wire) for a dryer, guess it could be used for a welder since it's in the garage but I had to install a separate 14ga 120v 20amp outlet just for the lighting.
TruAnRksT Information for you. Circuits are based on voltage and amps. It would be weird but legal to have #12 run to 120 volt 120 volt receptacles. The one you were trying to come off of is probably 30 amp breaker and receptacle. You can not connect #12or #14 to a 30amp circuit. Circuit breakers are installed to protect the conductors from overheating and deteriorating. If you actually ran #14 to your lights and installed a 20 amp breaker, you really need to change the breaker to a 15 amp breaker to be legal and safe. Respectfully, Kevin
I know about amps and volts, anyway it passed inspection.
TruAnRksT You told the inspector you used #14 on a 20 amp breaker and it passed inspection? Or it wasn't caught?
@@KevinCoop1 I can't say for sure what breaker was used, it was ten years ago. And the wire itself may have actually been #12 because that's mostly what I had.
But I expected it to feed a single light above the dryer with the option to install more lighting, which never happened. I don't see why you are being so anal about it anyway a short circuit or overload on #14 will just as easily trip a 20A breaker as a 15A.
Originally the house only had a single 30 amp fuse for the entire house all on one two wire feed. And all of the internal wiring was done with #14 except for the two single wires that were strung over the drive way from a post in the yard where the shutoff and fuse were to the house. No wire nuts, it was all twisted together with friction tape (sometimes) and no earth ground anywhere. The house was built in 1947. I'm quite sure it's much safer now than it was originally.
Oh did I mention that I replaced all of the structural flooring, every inch of plumbing, every inch of wiring every inch of drywall, all of the windows with new double pane units and replaced the roof all by myself? As well as every single switch, outlet and light fixture sinks, toilet, and shower. Even cut and threaded all the piping.
Hey, you don't have to live there so bite me.
Hummm, maybe you're more familiar with that shitty aluminum wire.
While the concept is fine, the fact your using 15 amp plugs on the 120 V side to make 240 V at 50 A also put you in a position of tripping breakers and melting wires inside the home. The plug/outlet more than likely will melt under this condition considering you’re using a welder especially a welder that is designed for a 50 amp plug you talking about 80% of 50 being 40 A while the 80% roll of 15 A is 12 which would mean you’re overloading the cable/plug by nearly 3 times it’s Rating I implore you do not follow this guy’s instructions or recommendations if you have no clue what the fuck you’re doing you are going to burn your house down if you follow this guy.
To all watching. If you have newer house with GFCI breakers, this will NOT work. Suggest to always do correctly installed circuits and receptacles! The life you save may be your own!
Why is this and is there a way around it?
Tiktokvidz The reason you can not do this with GFCI breakers is the way GFCI's work. The line and neutral conductors inside the breaker are run through a current transformer. Since both conductors are inside the doughnut, the transformer makes zero volts. If 5 milliamperes of current goes somewhere other than on those two conductors, the breaker will trip. (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter)
Is there a way around it? Yes! Have a correctly sized receptacle, conductors, and breaker installed within the rules of the current NEC or Code adopted in the area which you live.
Please do not try to do this stupid stuff! Respectfully, Kevin
@@KevinCoop1 Hahahaha fair enough. See my problem is I was hoping to go this route at my job to charge my electric car at a quicker rate than just using a 110
Tiktokvidz So, you are charging at home and at work? Or are you just trying to get more free energy because you can?
@@KevinCoop1 Charging at both but I'm allowed at work. I'm a paramedic so I'm able to charge at different bases. Most have a dryer outlet or a stove outlet that I can plug into but there are 2 out of 9 that don't have any option except for the 110
That’s also not a 20 amp rated plug so if that’s really a 10 gauge cable why is it on a 15 amp plug which is rated for 14 gauge. All of the screams fire hazard
You bound neutral to the box oooooof not a good idea at all. It’s not like neutral is being used to carry either of those two circuits used energy from the hot back to the grid so you know it’s not like there’s any potential difference for a potential shock you know.
I would be careful with this thing, when something is plugged in and you unplug one of the plugs you can get seriously shocked. Maybe add a dual pole relay in the box which switches both ''hots'' both with a 120VAC coil, to their own plug.
I hope to test your Theory in My Next Video when I get a 240V Appliance. Please subscribe for updates
Actually, adding a relay places a load across the two legs, ensuring a shock. Sounds good at first, but not the solution. There is no safe way to use this device.
@@TomCee53 Correct but only the relay coil current will shock you. Maybe a better solution is to use 2 120VAC relay coils for each leg one seperate. I edited my post for this now.
@@jim575757 it would still shock if there's a path from leg a to b through 2 relays
@@TomCee53 No i mean one relay coil on one 120V plug L-N. And a second relay coil on the second 120V plug L-N. Not between the legs. The 120V plug + coil is only connected to the rest of the system if 120V is applied to the plug (ergo it is plugged in).
Thank you sir 👍
If your light bulbs were not the same size (like 60w and 100w), they will not balance the voltage, and the smaller bulb will get too much voltage and burn out. I suspect that’s what happened.
This guy should be sued for wrong non code compliant advice
I just purchased this from Amazon. I was going to make one until I saw this. What do you think? Parkworld 886115 Combiner
I want to use it for 2 small inverter generators to make 240v to hook to my generator outside 30 amp l14 30.
There is a Parkworld 886115A Combiner that is longer.
I wouldn't feel guilty buying it. Making it will probably save you $20- $30. If you have the patience, you can make it yourself obviously. It depends how busy you are in life. Life is often about a Time/Money Tradeoff.
You CANNOT use these from two generators because they're not in sync. The voltage would be continuously drifting from 120V to 240V and back again. With generators, they can only be used with a single generator that has two 120V/15A circuit windings and doesn't already have a 240V outlet.
why don't you put the meter on the right side ?
Interesting video. Is this a UL Listed device? I’m betting not.
Joel Talbot NOT
That guy couldn't even spell UL
Before I cut the wires, each side was UL Listed, so I think that makes it twice UL listed.
I am an electrician
this is extremely dangerous
if you have something plugged in the receptal and only one cord plugged in and touch the hot
prong and ground you will be shocked and maybe be electrocuted!!!!!!
Uh apparently you aren't a very good electrician
Thank you! This dude is a moron! He bonded the neutral which is so freaking wrong. I would fire anybody who worked for me who did anything close to this. The guy needs to stop making videos.
I never noticed the led light up does it work?
Yes It Does! That's how you know you have 240 Volts from two different phases.
Wrong wrong wrong. 2 120 v and neutral comes from the power grid not ground. Ground is bonded to neutral in the main panel for the house in any sub panel ground is a separate Block directly wire to ground literally metal rod in your ground neutral is not ground. While combining two separate 120 V circuits one on each of the legs so the two 120 V legs coming in your house does make 240 V you must combine a 120 V leg with neutral to get 120. Never treat ground as neutral ground is literally intended for hard faults that’s why the cable in the wall is bare copper it’s not intended to carry a load. If it was intended to carry a load it would be shielded with a Coating hence why you usually notice a black and white and copper cable when wiring an outlet unless you’re dealing with a switch outlet or a 240 V dedicated circuit using a red instead of white
What about connecting 2 120v charge inverters to get 240v 2 phase?
What makes you think that inverters are in sync?
How do you get 220 to 110 thanks
If you are talking about in the United States, Just Pull power from only One Side of the 240V Line and a ground. In Europe this is not possible, as they have 240V on one hot line.
“I don’t have the information with me” & “I can only speak about my area” translation: “I have no idea wtf I’m talking about and am attempting to explain a topic that is way above my level of understanding to others who have little to no understanding of this subject matter thereby reproducing my ignorance and perpetuating urban myths and other societal misunderstandings” God that shit is so annoying, it makes it IMPOSSIBLE to find the answers one is looking for because you have to sift through the thousands of videos of people who are convinced they know what they’re talking about and makes you second guess those who actually DO know what they’re talking about.
P.S. I’m one of the ones who has NO IDEA what they’re talking about, I’m NOT an electrician, I’m just looking for an above all else SAFE way to run 240V to my apartment garage from the panel located inside of my apartment, so far I’m out of luck, or maybe I’m not, I just haven’t found a video made by someone I trust enough to follow their information.
I run into the same thing on so called "instructional" video's about changing FWD car wheel bearing. "Mechanic" gets the steering knuckle or hub holder off the car. No matter what you call it it is the piece that turns when steering wheel is turned and the brake caliper bolts to it. Once the hub is extracted which is usually done with a slide hammer puller bolted to 2 lug studs then you have taken the spooned end of the axle out the back and you have the steering knuckle free. Although it can be left on the car you need the right bearing puller and press to do it on the car. Backyard guys always take it off so they can position it on wood blocks to remove the outer race and here is where the expertise comes in. More than one DIY video shows a guy stick the head of a sledge hammer in the hole once the retaining (snap) rings are removed to allow the bearing to be pushed out and they OMG! I swear : They take a four pound hammer and start swinging wildly and STRIKING THE PROTRUDING FACE OF THE SLEDGE WITH THE 4 LB. In other words the sledge hammer head is used as a heavy duty drift or means to apply force and push the remnants of the old bearing, the outer race out of the steering knuckle. Of course these "pro's" don't bother wearing safety glasses because they are blissfully unaware that they are violating a basic common sense safety practice which is. NEVER strike the face of 2 hammers together!
@@gregorytimmons4777 is it really dangerous to do that? I’m not a mechanic so I have no idea if you’re being sarcastic or not
is the electrical cord 14/2 0r 10/2 guage
12/2 Gauge
You are correct, no permits required. Specifically because no permit would be allowed for this kind of half-assed, mickey mouse setup. The breaker panel is right there. It probably would have cost less to do it correctly. This is as stupid as when people make stinger cords so they can plug their generator into the dryer outlet.
Would this same concept work on a 14-50r?
The Problem is, You Need 60 Amp Wiring to the switch. How would you get that? Theoretically 6 plugs would be needed with each set of three plugs wired into outlets that are on the same side of the fusebox, or else there is a short. I think you need a dedicated outlet at that point. This solution is fail-safe and easy to do and gives you 240V that are easy to use.
You can do it as long as you can regulate the amps if not I’ll blow breakers I have made one similar for emergency 14-50 for my Tesla but I’m able to turn down amps I only use 18-20amps
Add 240 outlet and your done.
Add another where you work
This is hack electric
Dont kill someone because your cheap.
You're
So you buy and use a welder that requires say a 50 amp line at 8 gauge wire and you plug it into your hacked outlet with 20 amp breakers and only 12 gauge wire and say the breakers for some insane reason don't trip. What do you think will happen? On that outlet, it is stated 50 amps. Your line is dangerously underrated! You need to do a video update on how stupid and dangerous this video hack is. Get a dedicated line installed by someone qualified and stay safe!
Thank You for your comment. Two 20Amp 120V Lines are 40Amp Total, which is more than enough for the welder. That's why it works. Problem is it blows a GFCI outlet, because the Neutrals are not connected so they don't provide feedback for the GFCI outlet, making it appear falsely that there is a full short, triggering the GFCI to blow.
@@silverbankruptcy nooooo!!! You don't "add" 20 plus 20 = 40. A 2 pole 20 amp (20 on each side) or two single 20 is still 20 amp. Google a 40 amp 2 pole breaker and you'll see what I mean. Also, your'e blowing the gfci outlet because its rated only 20 amp max but it's sensing much more when your'e welding. In other words, your"e overloading both lines.
@@kato1400 I think your partially right. Its still 20amps but it's now multiplied by 240 volts so its same amps but it is double the watts. The GFCI blows because the white wires are not used so it can't monitor the voltage used so it blows.
He’s not partially right he is 100% correct that is 240 V at 20 A not 40 A. My most recent comments literally spell out multiple disasters waiting to happen this is beyond unsafe dude do not use this take this fucking video down you know Your gonna kill yourself you’re gonna be responsible for other people becoming injured. You do not know what the fuck you’re talking about you’re not qualified if you’re going to do DIY work at least make sure you have a fucking understanding of what you’re doing there’s plenty of electricians on here that actively go over how your panel works how wire gauge works how breaker ratings works heat sensing trips and overload trips Bing two separate things the fact that this thing is set up the way it is it 100% going to overload the 12 gauge why are you having your walls the outlet you’re connecting to the plug at south on the 120 V lines are using. The fact you bound two different neutrals from two different circuits together hang up shocked says more than enough that you should not be doing this.
Just disconnect the hot wire at the breaker and alligator clip it to one hot lug and take the white wire and alligator clip it to the other hot lug. 240 volts and the main breaker is unlikely to trip.
You only have one phase going to your home. That single phase is split (split phase) into two legs, each measuring 120V to neutral because of how the utility transformer is configured.
Here's an illustration: imagine having to AA batteries connected in series. If you measure the voltage across just one of those batteries, you measure about +1.5V. if you leave the lead that is contacting between the batteries where it is and move the lead from the end of the first battery to the end of the second battery, you now read about -1.5V. But you wouldn't claim that you have two batteries out of 'phase', one positive while one is negative. The meter read + and then - only because of the reference point.
So if we connect an oscilloscope on our two single phase home line voltage legs, we would see a single sine wave being produced. Well, I think this is correct, but I'm open to feedback or correction. Peace
Thank You so much for your Explanation! There is much we know, But we cant always explain as you have so well.
@@silverbankruptcy ... Thanks for the response. I'm in my first year of an electrical apprenticeship. I wanted to better understand the power transmission and supply so I did some studying.
@@truthbebold4009 your research is a public service to all of us who are less inclined to research for the Truth. Much Appreciated.
@truth be told From a guy that completed his apprenticeship 30 years ago you aren't quite there yet. It will come eventually. If you hook a scope to both phases the sine wave will just be twice as 'tall' as hooking it to a single phase circuit. 3 phase circuits is where you will see a 'different' sine wave. Stay away from giving advice about electricity to people out of the trade, just like getting medical advice from those who aren't doctors. Besides all of the code requirements from national and local codes that must be followed for safety purposes the basic knowledge required is, as you know, a skill set that takes years to master. Besides the risk of electrocution there are risks of fires from performing electrical work without skilled training. It angers me to hear of electrical fires because I guarantee that the work is never done by a licensed electrician, it's by someone that thinks that they know what they are doing. Sometimes they get away with it but when they don't lives are at stake. IMHO It is irresponsible for this guy to give electrical advice on RUclips.
The industry has been good to me, continue your training and learn from the 'old masters' at the jobsite. Best of luck to you in your career.
VIOLATION BY N.E.C. PLEASE STOP let electricians teach electricity
Good way to get someone hurt . Need to have a Electrician come out and install a 50 amp circuit for your welder.
Just curious, assuming he did it as described what could happen?
He shocked him self in the video because he found two separate neutral lines from two different circuits into one box causing potential and he got shocked. What also will happen is a fire because the 120 V plugs are not rated for 50 A the outlets he’s using on the 120 V side is not rated for 50 A the cable in the wall is not rated for the same thing the breakers are not rated for it so best case scenario you get a small shock from the neutral being bound. Worst case scenario you melt the plug melt the 120 V line in your wall and your trip the breaker well that’s not the worst that’s next to worst the absolute worst will be a fire because everything here is severely underrated for the application you combine to 120 V breakers at 20 A that makes 240 V at 20 A he has 240 V at 50 amp plug and appliance being the welder
I've seen many RUclipsrs qualify their content by claiming no responsibility if you make a serious mistake, and that's for normal code compliant instructions. Not here, when this is wildly illegal and dangerous. If you're familiar with the phrase "knows enough to be dangerous" this is it.
The difference is that I stand behind my ignorance.
@@silverbankruptcy That will rapidly vanish when someone sues you.
@@fromagefrizzbizz9377 the Disclaimer does not help anything and while anyone can sue for anything, I have no relationship with viewers that they can a that they relied upon for safety. If anything, I am not claiming that this is safe, so if you want a completely safe life, go visit a children's channel.
@@silverbankruptcy I do vastly lot more DIY electrical work than you do. Wired several houses from scratch, countless modifications and minor renovations, and co-wrote a FAQ on residential wiring that even the US military has asked to borrow for their trainee electricians to use. Surprised the heck out of us, but they explained that they really like our simple language for their trainee electricians to grasp the basics, and they'll layer the fine detail of their code on top in the hands-on training.
You know what? ALL my work is to code, safe and passed by inspection.
Children's channel? Guffaw.
Exactly, your disclaimer doesn't help anything. Even so, fact that you don't feel responsible in deliberately encouraging unsafe wiring simply means you don't care if any of your viewers kill themselves.
I find that appalling. It's even worse that you simply don't understand the various failure modes/hazards of what you're proposing.
Let me explain a couple:
- If one breaker trips, the other is still live, *including* the plug prongs on the blown breaker side if the device is switched on.
- 14ga on a 20A line? No cookie. 14ga does get warm when you push it to 15A. Couldn't you have spent a few bucks on 2' of 12ga medium/rough-duty flexible cord (like SJTW or SOOW?), with 20A plugs to match?
- The reason that the code is as strict as it is is because they're trying to idiot-proof it. Sure, you may remember the precautions, but will everyone who may encounter it?
You could have done this job *cheaper* by converting the 120V circuit that feeds nothing else into a fully code-compliant 240V/20A outlet, needing only a dual 20A breaker, a 240V receptacle of the required size, and a few inches of black electrical tape. I did exactly the same thing a few weeks ago while upgrading a 120V instant heater to 240V. There's already several youtube videos on how to do this.
@@fromagefrizzbizz9377 look, I don't doubt your credentials. But you can't have your own facts. I am running 12 Guage wiring on two 20 AMP outlets. It's perfectly safe. If one side blows then the welder will not run and will shut off. It's perfectly safe. But it saves money for those people who cannot afford your overly designed and overly expensive services. My viewers aren't military procurement officers. Sometimes the cheap solution is the only solution either reach. This video is not about searching for the perfect solution.
kids don't do this at home with any electric out let
Another one? People, don't even try this.
JFC why make this 28 minute video
Raised a red flag here!
@silverbankruptcy
In RUclips Editor, add yourself a correction "caption" to pop up at the time of the mistake to further warn those not doing their homework. burn out something. This can be done without losing your current views.
-Thanks, buddy
P.S. The video is appreciated. Be sure to add that in the video someone might get hurt.
-TIALKN
Great Idea - I did it at around 8:38 seconds, Thanks. Everyone - See my Pinned comments as well.
Shade tree electrician!
What happens when the next guy opens this box?
it's hard to stay awake watching this video. my concern is what he is proposing is illegal & mickey mouse. the breaker panel is right there where he is working! why not do it right ? if your going to work in other peoples properties make an extension cord/adaptor to plug into their dryer outlet, or better still, buy a gas welder. sadly there many ways to shortcut wiring installs that are both an electrocution & fire hazards.
Funny Electricians make fun of people who put up tutorials like this when for emergencies purposes I’ve seen 1st hand electricians do this I’m one of them lol again I agree by no means a permanent solution but sometimes got do whatcha gotta do
You really think the people watching this are only gonna use this as at temp solution ? Be smart and run a 10 gauge dedicated run terminating under a double pole breaker
Nick Your advice is not the best either. Would you really run #10 to all 240 volt receptacles?
Do not do this. Total code violation and dangerous.
You're a dangerous person to explain anything to someone about electricity bud
timestamp 27:20 to 27:30 says it ALL! "...AND THAT'S ABOUT IT..."
First time I've ever given a thumbs down ... I just want to help prevent deaths.
Well when you stuff bare wires in an outlet with no plug your asking for it then. The plug concept works but is not ideal. For a few reasons. The breakers are not joined with a bar to trip at same time. Wire gauge for the amp draw. Disconnect 1 of 2 plugs with load connected leaves the disconnected plug powered.
If wired right it works perfectly for a pinch. Just be safe and don't leave it unattended
Idiocy, unsafe, and not to code. DO NOT do this
This shit is funny......do it right