Lofts are a nightmare to try and figure out without instructions. I spent hours trying to make them work in one of my designs. Your breakdown of the tool and examples were VERY straightforward and helpful. This was simple and FUN. The best kind of tutorials.
thanks for the video. I believe this will help me turn aircraft profiles and cross sections into 3d plans. I love how you keep it simple and straight to the point.
Angus, Americans understand you when you say "vaaz" so no worries there. However, to us, that is a fancy pronunciation that makes us think of something that belongs in a museum or in the hands of a collector, where as a "vase" is merely something you buy at Walmart to chuck some flowers into. Your creation probably falls somewhere in between, but if you print it in bronze-fill then we can probably call it a "vaaz." ;)
We do recognize the Aussie/British pronunciation. When Americans say it that way, though, it's clearly an affectation, and indicates stuffiness and an intention to sound posh. This is why it gets people's goat. But since it's organic to the Aussie accent, it sounds less weird if you just say it normally (for you) and don't get spooked by the commenters into second-guessing yourself. BTW, I say this as someone who designs and makes vases for a living, and sells them at posh prices, but pronounces it in the American (rhymes with face) style. In fact, almost all of our American customers, shops, and galleries also just use the American pronunciation, and don't go pseudo-British, so most people don't use the two pronunciations differentially to indicate price.
Yay lofting with features, Thanks! Even though i consider myself as an intermediate level cad user you always find a way to show me something new. I appreciate what you're doing and especially the long hours you put in to do it :)
Could you please start making "CAD for advanced users" or something similar. Been using fusion 360 for a while know and would like to learn more advanced features that the program offers. Also something you should show how to do is how to use the simulation function to see if your 3D printed parts mechanically can hold up. Keep up the good tutorials!
The newbies series will shortly reach a point where it will be come more advanced and transition :) The more advanced stuff will probably be showcased mostly in projects though.
Thanks Angus you are a great inspiration. Have watched a heap of your videos. One of my kids took pity on me dreaming... and gave me a 3D printer. Your guidance has given me a nice smooth start in this field. So now in receipt of my new Any Cubic Mega, which is by the way brilliant. I could not be more impressed or happy. Hasn't missed a beat thus far, giving perfect prints using Cura thus far, given I from your videos plenty to get me started. It is early days, but have about 40 prints down and quality has been excellent. On black as supplied PLA no stringing, high finish quality, good on overhangs (I failed to support) Next to zero aberrant artifacts thus far, so hopefully the quality holds. Now one of my kids also has caught the bug too, when they could see what one of these boxes of magic can do, so you'll have two tuning in more regularly. Consequently madly learning how to design a whole range of 3D prints in Fusion 360.... so your video is so very relevant to us newcomers. The power of 3D printing (for me coming from old school drawing, engineering and machining (I actually own a lathe) is in one's ability to design and build much more seamlessly and complex shapes. TinkerCad was cheap and cheerful... but found it pretty limited and my very first print was pretty substandard. I am sure TinkerCad in the right hands is as good as any, but have just gone much nearer the top shelf and willing to pay the price to build anything I want accurately. Given the quality that can be generated by the Any Cubic, I felt compelled to bite the bullet and learn everything I can about Fusion. Despite Fusion and I not infrequently having the odd tiff, we are still working on our marriage and as of today at last, I think we are officially almost friends at last. So very much worth the late nights when you see the objects (eventually) appearing exactly as designed and I get a kick out of optimising my models to make efficient use of materials and printing time. Cura's fuzzy skin is pretty cool, great for objects that need more of an organic feel or in my case, industrial grip. Working on threads, coils and now with your help lofting...(this is awesome assistance.....so grateful). Hence another of your truly great videos again.... very relevant, as an extremely quick way to get fusion to do what you want. All I can say is it is very order specific (somewhat Tutonic almost) which rubs against my hand skill creative distant Celtic roots...as I am anything but orderly, but like any handskill or computer skill, put in the time (with top class guidance) and the results speak for themselves. Thank you for all your kind and thoughtful efforts, that help my models look all the more impressive. Regs. RD Terrigal
if you live in australia, the aldi 3D printers are generally pretty good because they provide an actual warranty and are from a reputable company (being aldi instead of somewhere in china). just wait until their next sale, a few weeks ago they were selling $300 printers.
BoomBrush Just had the ALDI sale here in the UK but all gone before I got chance (online offer only). Thinking about the Wanhao i3 Plus as it seems to be the same model.
Kevin Pickard I've got the Wanhao i3 Plus and the thing runs like a champ. Apart from a blockage when I got it, from the factory testing, I haven't had any issues with it
I love the loft feature. I've always wanted to make a mandalorian helmet ( from star wars), but never knew how to make the cheek structure until loft came to the rescue. Helmet is currently being printed on my Anet A8 ;).
In my experience, when printing in vase mode (or even regular parts), the most important setting for strength and quality is the extrusion width. You can surprisingly print with a width of up to 4x your nozzle diameter (e.g. 1.6mm extrusion width with a 0.4mm nozzle) providing dramatic benefits to the part strength. As a nice test, print 7 small cubes in vase mode (1cm sides) at 0.4, 0.6, 0.8, 1.0, 1.2, 1.4 and 1.6 extrusion width and compare the strength as well as the cosmetic finish. For some reason, extrusion width is under exploited. Obviously it takes longer, but you can create more functional parts.
Angus, great series. besides the how to use features etc, it also the tips hint on where you can use these (spark ideas..) hope the move to your BIG makerspace is going as planned. greetz Ron
I'd be interested in videos about the features in the different work spaces (eg. there's a cool trick you can do in the sheet metal workspace which allows you to wrap things around a cylinder by flattening and unflattening) as well as assemblies. Great videos :)
hey, nice and easy explanations. i'm a sucker for SW but loves the freeform tool in sculpt from 360. I would love to see you doing some tutorial on that.
Hi Angus, I've been going through your newbies playlist in order. At 10:15 you have a solid object, but then we get to 10:25 and it's got walls with thickness. How did you do that? Thanks!
@@chirpyhasnain903 No, that's not it, he's still in Fusion 360 so there must be something he forgot to mention. I reached this video after figuring lofts and vase making myself, but after lofting I always end up with a solid object, no matter what. If I use "shell" command it complains it can't delete faces, etc.
I know this is an older video. I just purchased the CR-10 V2 and BL touch sensor (after watching your video). I like to tinker and so the printer should do just fine for me. I have lots of WYZE cameras and I want to hide them, they are ugly sitting on my side table aimed at the door, or on a shelf looking at the patio, etc. I wan to create a vase for them. Specifically, I want to create a vase that has numerous circular indents about the size of a lens, not complete inverted domes, but more like craters on the moon. I can create the various shapes in Fusion (TinkerCAD just wasnt doing it), but how do you randomly distributed them across the surface of an object? Is that possible?
And yet again an amazing video! :) I am starting to feel like I can actually make things in this software. Do you have plans on extending the playlist for these tutorial videos? :)
Sorry to necro bump a 3 month comment but you can shell right in autodesk by selecting the shell tool in the modify tab, selecting the top face, and choosing a layer thickness, I did 1.2mm
Angus. I am having an issue when I create a vase with a 1, 1.5, 2 mm thick wall. When I slice using S3D, the preview shows the wall as 2 separate walls. I try and use 100% infill, 10 perimeters, and even 20% overlap for infill. My preview shows the same two walls with space in between. I get this in Fusion 360. No matter if I draw and extrude, make solid, use sheet metal mode to draw, or follow your instructions in this excellent tutorial. Any help? Would be great.
I think there is a setting called "ensure vertical shell thickness" besure to check/uncheck that for your need and just test both options. If you export your vase as a solid model and just put in no top and no infill - you should have zero issues doing 4 or 5 perimeters. But be sure to uncheck "external perimeter first"
if you could help great! so i got the personal license on Fusion 360(FREE) and i usually use the design feature in the top left and i wanted to change to model, and there is no option, do i have to make a new account and do whatever or if not..what?
Bet practice is to have a root sketch that is on a perpendicular plane and just has a vertical axis where you anchor your offset planes in - so you can change the distances really easily by giving your axis a few points where you anchor the offset planes at. I learned that from a tutorial where they made a nice whiskey bottle. I failed becuase I tired to go from a profile on a horizontal plane to a angled profile but that didn't work.
Love it! Vahhz (as in La Paz), Vaze (as in craze), Vase (as in face). You say patahato, I say patayto ..... - LOL - who cares? Personally, I enjoy hearing different pronunciations!
Can you tell me of a liquid or spray I can use to seal the inside of the vase, which would come out clear? When I print using Slic3r's vase mode, it won't hold water - and I don't want to print these things without vase mode, as they eat up too much filament. Thanks!
Hello, I am trying to loft a locomotive wheel spoke. There are four profiles, made up of four arcs. When I try to loft with guide rails, I get an error message saying that the rails are not touching the profiles. I attached the rails to the profiles with the project feature, can you offer help please?
Is there a way of making a model ladder 20 mm long, 5mm wide and make the runners in fusion 360. Great video learning alot from u Angus awesomeness. What are your thoughts on Wombot 3d printers and are 3d scanners any good.Thanks Joe
+Joe Muller easy, you will need to use the linear pattern tool to make the rungs. Haven't tested wombot printers and I recently tested the einscan se and sp scanners on the channel.
I think it's funny that you say both vause and vase in this video -- because, now, everyone can be equally offended at you for saying it wrong! ;-) [nice video, btw.] :-)
Excellent video, Angus. Don't give in to the American pronunciation of 'vase'. If it was supposed to be pronounced 'vaze', that's how it would be spelt...not least given America's love affair with the letter 'z' in written English! 😋
I'm struggling to get my slice to connect to my sketches. When I select the slice as a rail, F360 tells me, "The selected rail does not touch all of the profiles." I've tried zooming in, and getting it as close as possible, but it's not snapping. Anyone know what I'm doing wrong?
hi Angus great tutorial I use solidworks mainly mechanical but now into printing wow I'm going home to play thankyou ps us brits invented the varse not your Nancy vaze as yanks would say 😂
I really like your work and commitment. This time I find the tutorial pretty incomplete. Talking about loft and rails, without talking about projection (and if you only had pointed to sketch -> project / include -> project) is more or less forcing people to hate the loft command. I know that the loft command could be a PITA - but witout projection it will be much more often bite you.
![Digital Circus Episode 4 [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/abZtsmMUbJo/mqdefault.jpg)
Lofts are a nightmare to try and figure out without instructions. I spent hours trying to make them work in one of my designs. Your breakdown of the tool and examples were VERY straightforward and helpful. This was simple and FUN. The best kind of tutorials.
Terrific addition to the series.
That filament is next level insane!
Great. That helps me a lot. I have not been too successful in the past with loft. You have given me an idea to try. Thanks
this changes everything! Thanks for the lesson. I always enjoy your cad videos as i learn a lot every time.Thank you.
Finally! I understand loft paths now. Very helpful!
I always get excited when I see these pop up in my sub box haha
Love your fusion 360+3d printing tutorials. Great work
thanks for the video. I believe this will help me turn aircraft profiles and cross sections into 3d plans. I love how you keep it simple and straight to the point.
Angus, Americans understand you when you say "vaaz" so no worries there. However, to us, that is a fancy pronunciation that makes us think of something that belongs in a museum or in the hands of a collector, where as a "vase" is merely something you buy at Walmart to chuck some flowers into. Your creation probably falls somewhere in between, but if you print it in bronze-fill then we can probably call it a "vaaz." ;)
Haha, sounds fair to me :)
That description works! I usually go with "if it costs more than $20, it is a vaaz, less, it is a vase"
And by the way, we pronounce it so it rhymes with "face," "ace," and "pace." :)
We do recognize the Aussie/British pronunciation. When Americans say it that way, though, it's clearly an affectation, and indicates stuffiness and an intention to sound posh. This is why it gets people's goat. But since it's organic to the Aussie accent, it sounds less weird if you just say it normally (for you) and don't get spooked by the commenters into second-guessing yourself.
BTW, I say this as someone who designs and makes vases for a living, and sells them at posh prices, but pronounces it in the American (rhymes with face) style. In fact, almost all of our American customers, shops, and galleries also just use the American pronunciation, and don't go pseudo-British, so most people don't use the two pronunciations differentially to indicate price.
well he is saying vaze... that's somewhere in between...
Excellent video I literally just gave up while trying to make a organic vase/vaze when I found your video thanks a million man!!
Your video tutorial has helped me so very much. Thank you.
Really useful tutorial of a very powerful feature. I love learning how to use Fusion 360 better. Thanks Angus.
Yay lofting with features, Thanks!
Even though i consider myself as an intermediate level cad user you always find a way to show me something new.
I appreciate what you're doing and especially the long hours you put in to do it :)
Angus, I love these cad for newbies tutorials! I have learned so much from you. Keep it up!!
Could you please start making "CAD for advanced users" or something similar. Been using fusion 360 for a while know and would like to learn more advanced features that the program offers. Also something you should show how to do is how to use the simulation function to see if your 3D printed parts mechanically can hold up. Keep up the good tutorials!
The newbies series will shortly reach a point where it will be come more advanced and transition :) The more advanced stuff will probably be showcased mostly in projects though.
He doesn't know something harder. Maybe in 2-3 years he'll get to something harder than doing boxes and spheres.
Let's see... he's an Industrial Designer, so, yeah, I expect he does.
he may be rocket scientist but everything he does is for 12yo kids. nothing wrong with it, just don't pretend to be something else
@@rikimiki12 criticizing, I bet your an unhappy person.
Thanks for being awesome!
Excellent, easy to understand tutorial. Thanks.
Just what I was looking for!!
Thanks Angus you are a great inspiration. Have watched a heap of your videos. One of my kids took pity on me dreaming... and gave me a 3D printer. Your guidance has given me a nice smooth start in this field. So now in receipt of my new Any Cubic Mega, which is by the way brilliant. I could not be more impressed or happy. Hasn't missed a beat thus far, giving perfect prints using Cura thus far, given I from your videos plenty to get me started. It is early days, but have about 40 prints down and quality has been excellent. On black as supplied PLA no stringing, high finish quality, good on overhangs (I failed to support) Next to zero aberrant artifacts thus far, so hopefully the quality holds. Now one of my kids also has caught the bug too, when they could see what one of these boxes of magic can do, so you'll have two tuning in more regularly. Consequently madly learning how to design a whole range of 3D prints in Fusion 360.... so your video is so very relevant to us newcomers. The power of 3D printing (for me coming from old school drawing, engineering and machining (I actually own a lathe) is in one's ability to design and build much more seamlessly and complex shapes. TinkerCad was cheap and cheerful... but found it pretty limited and my very first print was pretty substandard. I am sure TinkerCad in the right hands is as good as any, but have just gone much nearer the top shelf and willing to pay the price to build anything I want accurately. Given the quality that can be generated by the Any Cubic, I felt compelled to bite the bullet and learn everything I can about Fusion. Despite Fusion and I not infrequently having the odd tiff, we are still working on our marriage and as of today at last, I think we are officially almost friends at last. So very much worth the late nights when you see the objects (eventually) appearing exactly as designed and I get a kick out of optimising my models to make efficient use of materials and printing time. Cura's fuzzy skin is pretty cool, great for objects that need more of an organic feel or in my case, industrial grip. Working on threads, coils and now with your help lofting...(this is awesome assistance.....so grateful). Hence another of your truly great videos again.... very relevant, as an extremely quick way to get fusion to do what you want. All I can say is it is very order specific (somewhat Tutonic almost) which rubs against my hand skill creative distant Celtic roots...as I am anything but orderly, but like any handskill or computer skill, put in the time (with top class guidance) and the results speak for themselves. Thank you for all your kind and thoughtful efforts, that help my models look all the more impressive. Regs. RD Terrigal
Another great tutorial. Not bought my first 3D printer yet - still pondering which one - but feel you’ve given me a head start when I get going.
if you live in australia, the aldi 3D printers are generally pretty good because they provide an actual warranty and are from a reputable company (being aldi instead of somewhere in china). just wait until their next sale, a few weeks ago they were selling $300 printers.
BoomBrush Just had the ALDI sale here in the UK but all gone before I got chance (online offer only). Thinking about the Wanhao i3 Plus as it seems to be the same model.
Kevin Pickard I've got the Wanhao i3 Plus and the thing runs like a champ. Apart from a blockage when I got it, from the factory testing, I haven't had any issues with it
Invaluable info as always Angus. Thank you.
Nice Tutorial. Greetings from Switzerland. :-)
Great video Angus. Very helpful.
Thank you for this! Very helpful!
Thank you for making content that actually teaches us something, I will add these skills to my "tool box" and be better for it!
That was the one I was waiting for
Thank a lot !
I love the loft feature. I've always wanted to make a mandalorian helmet ( from star wars), but never knew how to make the cheek structure until loft came to the rescue. Helmet is currently being printed on my Anet A8 ;).
In my experience, when printing in vase mode (or even regular parts), the most important setting for strength and quality is the extrusion width. You can surprisingly print with a width of up to 4x your nozzle diameter (e.g. 1.6mm extrusion width with a 0.4mm nozzle) providing dramatic benefits to the part strength. As a nice test, print 7 small cubes in vase mode (1cm sides) at 0.4, 0.6, 0.8, 1.0, 1.2, 1.4 and 1.6 extrusion width and compare the strength as well as the cosmetic finish. For some reason, extrusion width is under exploited. Obviously it takes longer, but you can create more functional parts.
Angus great video. Now off to lofting.
Another excellent video. I have got to try this!!
Angus,
great series.
besides the how to use features etc, it also the tips hint on where you can use these (spark ideas..)
hope the move to your BIG makerspace is going as planned.
greetz Ron
Thank you this is extremely useful.
Really nice tutorial, thanks a lot
Awesome video and tutorial !
these are so helpful for a cad newbie like me :D
Well, how in the heck am I suppose to make a Maker Coin with this? :)
+3D Printing Nerd hahaha ! I'm sure you'll find a way :P
You make a cup with a maker coin as the cap :P
Loft a point to a point with curved guide rails to make a coin?
I have an idea for you.
Michael Scholtz eh?
Nice! Thanks.
Outstanding!
Great videos man, extremely helpful!
Thanks for what you do!
Hey Angus great work.....
Great guide, as always ;)
Awesome!! Great for art projects too... subscribed!
I'd be interested in videos about the features in the different work spaces (eg. there's a cool trick you can do in the sheet metal workspace which allows you to wrap things around a cylinder by flattening and unflattening) as well as assemblies. Great videos :)
Спасибо за видео, брат!
Pretty cool !
hey, nice and easy explanations. i'm a sucker for SW but loves the freeform tool in sculpt from 360. I would love to see you doing some tutorial on that.
Good video Thank you !
The part I need help with is making it hollow. Having trouble as the shell command doesn't seem to work.
I'm sure someone might've asked this already, but how did you go from a hairline wall in Fusion360 to a thicker wall in the 3D printed vase?
use the FACE fuction in F360, he expalins it
@@jay1st1st Thanks
Excellent. Thanks!!!!
Hi Angus, I've been going through your newbies playlist in order. At 10:15 you have a solid object, but then we get to 10:25 and it's got walls with thickness. How did you do that? Thanks!
He used the Vase mode feature, this can be found somewhere in your slicer.
@@chirpyhasnain903 No, that's not it, he's still in Fusion 360 so there must be something he forgot to mention. I reached this video after figuring lofts and vase making myself, but after lofting I always end up with a solid object, no matter what. If I use "shell" command it complains it can't delete faces, etc.
Well I just figured it out, so never mind.
war4peace1979 ...would you share please?
I need to create some simple lamp objects but i have never designed anything so far, hope to learn how it works here
Awesome!!!!!
Good work, thank you. I will make my own "vaaz" on my Ender 3 Pro
Just what I am looking for
Thanks Angus, really good stuff. "VARS" is acceptable pronunciation for vase in my book ;) Cheers, JAYTEE
I know this is an older video. I just purchased the CR-10 V2 and BL touch sensor (after watching your video). I like to tinker and so the printer should do just fine for me. I have lots of WYZE cameras and I want to hide them, they are ugly sitting on my side table aimed at the door, or on a shelf looking at the patio, etc. I wan to create a vase for them. Specifically, I want to create a vase that has numerous circular indents about the size of a lens, not complete inverted domes, but more like craters on the moon. I can create the various shapes in Fusion (TinkerCAD just wasnt doing it), but how do you randomly distributed them across the surface of an object? Is that possible?
I love how you pronounce vase. XP Nice video!
And yet again an amazing video! :) I am starting to feel like I can actually make things in this software. Do you have plans on extending the playlist for these tutorial videos? :)
Yes! More in future for sure.
Anguussss!!
im having some issues with the shell command with my vase, i think its too twisted and the program cant process it. Is there anything i can do?
Thanks for this! I notice you didn't shell the model, is that done in the slicer?
Sorry to necro bump a 3 month comment but you can shell right in autodesk by selecting the shell tool in the modify tab, selecting the top face, and choosing a layer thickness, I did 1.2mm
Is this what you would use to Make Anything's "satisfying twist vases" that he used Solid Works to make?
Angus. I am having an issue when I create a vase with a 1, 1.5, 2 mm thick wall. When I slice using S3D, the preview shows the wall as 2 separate walls. I try and use 100% infill, 10 perimeters, and even 20% overlap for infill. My preview shows the same two walls with space in between. I get this in Fusion 360. No matter if I draw and extrude, make solid, use sheet metal mode to draw, or follow your instructions in this excellent tutorial. Any help? Would be great.
+Trent Retallack try changing your extrusion width to a larger or smaller number, it auto defaults to 0.48 for a 0.4 nozzle
I think there is a setting called "ensure vertical shell thickness" besure to check/uncheck that for your need and just test both options.
If you export your vase as a solid model and just put in no top and no infill - you should have zero issues doing 4 or 5 perimeters. But be sure to uncheck "external perimeter first"
if you could help great! so i got the personal license on Fusion 360(FREE) and i usually use the design feature in the top left and i wanted to change to model, and there is no option, do i have to make a new account and do whatever or if not..what?
Bet practice is to have a root sketch that is on a perpendicular plane and just has a vertical axis where you anchor your offset planes in - so you can change the distances really easily by giving your axis a few points where you anchor the offset planes at.
I learned that from a tutorial where they made a nice whiskey bottle.
I failed becuase I tired to go from a profile on a horizontal plane to a angled profile but that didn't work.
I remember using the lofter in the dos version of 3D studio. That was a hard thing to get right.
Hi angus thanks for this vid lol
Love it!
Vahhz (as in La Paz), Vaze (as in craze), Vase (as in face). You say patahato, I say patayto ..... - LOL - who cares? Personally, I enjoy hearing different pronunciations!
Can you tell me of a liquid or spray I can use to seal the inside of the vase, which would come out clear? When I print using Slic3r's vase mode, it won't hold water - and I don't want to print these things without vase mode, as they eat up too much filament. Thanks!
How can i move the rail or sketch-line in multiple planes after creating one? I have this problem very often and i cant find out how.
Hello, I am trying to loft a locomotive wheel spoke. There are four profiles, made up of four arcs. When I try to loft with guide rails, I get an error message saying that the rails are not touching the profiles. I attached the rails to the profiles with the project feature, can you offer help please?
Is there a way of making a model ladder 20 mm long, 5mm wide and make the runners in fusion 360.
Great video learning alot from u Angus awesomeness. What are your thoughts on Wombot 3d printers and are 3d scanners any good.Thanks Joe
+Joe Muller easy, you will need to use the linear pattern tool to make the rungs. Haven't tested wombot printers and I recently tested the einscan se and sp scanners on the channel.
nice 👍
Vaas is Dutch sounds good to me as a Dutchman :)
Hey Angus question, in the new shop will you be doin tutorial on fusion with CAM? For beginners??
What do you mean by “in the order the part will be formed”?
Oh, and nice video. >8^D Helpful.
Angus, is Fusion going to be subscription in the future apart from students?
Very cool! I can't until my printer gets here.
Hey, Angus, could you design and print a custom PC cooling fan? I would just like to see it done, as I think you could do some cool things.
It was a good tutorial but confused why your object jumps from solid @10:04 to hollow @10:26 with no explanation. Seems like a clip was cut out
VARS - SAY IT LOUD AND PROUD
I think it's funny that you say both vause and vase in this video -- because, now, everyone can be equally offended at you for saying it wrong! ;-) [nice video, btw.] :-)
Excellent video, Angus. Don't give in to the American pronunciation of 'vase'. If it was supposed to be pronounced 'vaze', that's how it would be spelt...not least given America's love affair with the letter 'z' in written English! 😋
Hehe, was a bit of a joke :P
We don't pronounce it "vaze" in the US. Some pronounce it "vase" while a lot of people pronounce it "voss" for some reason.
Maker's Muse Hehe. As was mine...in part! Lol 😂
Yeah most of us say "vace". "Vozz" might be okay too for some areas of the states.
It's not "vaze" anyways, it's "vace", pronounced the same way as face, ace, etc. Either way, it's definitely not "vaaz".
I'm struggling to get my slice to connect to my sketches. When I select the slice as a rail, F360 tells me, "The selected rail does not touch all of the profiles."
I've tried zooming in, and getting it as close as possible, but it's not snapping. Anyone know what I'm doing wrong?
Having the same issue. Did you figure this out?
@@rscholly Trial and error :/
fantastic angus, how do you remember all this stuff ?
+Wayne keeling I've been using CAD for some time :)
Where can I get that marble PLA?
hi Angus great tutorial I use solidworks mainly mechanical but now into printing wow I'm going home to play thankyou ps us brits invented the varse not your Nancy vaze as yanks would say 😂
I really like your work and commitment. This time I find the tutorial pretty incomplete. Talking about loft and rails, without talking about projection (and if you only had pointed to sketch -> project / include -> project) is more or less forcing people to hate the loft command. I know that the loft command could be a PITA - but witout projection it will be much more often bite you.
how do you hollow it out?
Don’t apologise for saying vase correctly then say it wrong in your correction!!!
It’s vase, not vaze!!!
Varse! haha
Love your context by the way.
Been subscribed for as long as I can remember and you’re the reason I’ve gotten into printing. Keep up the good work.
i alwaysed use revole for vases but lofts r much cooler
Can you make a chromatic vase tutorial?
Why do you prefer fusion 360 over solidworks?
Srikrishna S because fusion 360 doesn't cost thousands of dollars
Yep, that.
maybe to little to late..?
You don't say how to connect the layers. When I create a spline it only travels on the layer I start it on.
Varse!!!!! :)
04:08 Vacume nozzle.
now I want F360