If some of us like a more film look, set the wb to sunny. Thats pretty much what film had. Makes a big difference and takes the worry out of setting it for different occasions
Being a user of 4 different cameras, to me it is important that I am able to achieve consistent color profiles between the different cameras. Therefore I have chosen the color passport way making a reference shot at exact the same lightening conditions for all the cameras. Most safe way is using a flash to shoot the passport and the compromise is shooting in the morning hours where light changes rather slowly in between you make the different reference shots. Having done that I simply sit with the passport on one hand and adjust each camera color settings until there are no difference between them. I don't use the Adobe tool offered in ACR as I find them non acurate. So perceptual calibration is my way to go. When all that is done you may make your startpoint as a preset if so wanted. Depending on what's your way of post processing. Working wih presets where all the sliders may be involved carries the risk you get inconsitent colors anyhow, so for avoiding that you may set you preset in photoshop instead of Lightroom or ACR. But change from the beginning to work in LAB colors where changes in slider adjustmets, contrast etc, will not change your colors. When done, convert back to RGB or what ever gamut you are normally working in.
I'm using a simple set of cards (white, grey and black), and they make life easier, but of course the more sophisticated tools can be more versatile. Also there's just one tiny thing that was not mentioned in the video: Olympus has two basic white balance setings (hidden in the menus): a warmer and a neutral one. I guess by default it favors the warmer one, which I always switch to the neutral. Just check the menu for WB settings (not the supercontrol, but the robust one :D) and experiment which one is closer to your liking.
As a mainly travel photographer I consider Olympus auto white balance to be excellent, remembering opportunities and conditions can change quite quickly, generally shoot RAW, but still pretty happy with JPEG, if the colors are slightly out I don't mind adjusting in post
Hello Joseph, great tutorial as always. I have underestimated the importance of WB so many times, and you make it look so easy. To get the skin color right or the black suit to be black and not blue or white dress not to be pink .... Thank you so much.
Great tutorial thanks. Love that you present everything so succinctly and clearly. I really enjoy playing with some of the filters and if you leave it on raw you get both Jpeg and raw. You can also bracket them I believe on the pen f, but I haven’t tried that yet.
Coffee filters work GREAT with Olympus One Touch WB. When you are on location or an event... keep it with you in your shirt pocket, pull it out, put in front of the lens and snap the one touch WB (I got it set on my 12-40 L-Fn button) It is so efficient, I promise you. For studio, yeah, buy a color checker/grey card passport which works best for skin tones and color in general and because you don't have to carry it around for the whole day.
I keep saying that any settings "for the jpeg" that alter the gain, also alter the raw. Which is most settings. Notably WB and Picture Mode, highlight-shadow (gain curve), but also sharpening, NR. contrast, (all three are selective gain), and saturation. Nearly everything you fiddle with alters the exposure values in some way.
Great video!! I recently purchased a spydercheckr24 card, not as rugged as the passport checker, but great for studio work. I find that sometimes Olympus goes too red on auto white balance, so setting a custom white balance is vital so lips don’t seem like too much weird lipstick has been applied 😂
getting my 1st Olympus later this year!either the 1mkii or the 5mkiii!I bought the 10mkii for my big brother in april!!I like their menus and I only purchase it for the 4K video functions!
Does the sequence order of raw edits affect the final result, and if so what do you recommend? E.g. white balance, exposure, camera picture profile (natural), noise reduction, etc.
Good tutorial but you had the kelvin values backwards... you said the lower the value the more orangey... It's the opposite... the lower the value , the more blue it will be...
I have tried setting my E-M1 MkII on CWB in order to to use a CTO or CTB gel with off camera flash (Godox) - but when I do this, my camera self reverts back to auto white balance...but when I turn the flash off, it stays in the CWB mode...am I missing a setting somewhere in the menu, or is there a possibility there is a software glitch - has anyone else run into this issue? I tried this in RAW and JPG - same result.
Life Saver - watched a handful of your videos before dumping Canon and picking up my Olympus - I'm all in and and loving it so far! (Instagram) @k9photogallery @@JosephEllisPhotographer
Maybe try a custom white balance - that should give you accurate colors/settings to judge the screen. Also make sure your picture profile is in Natural or Flat to make sure there isn’t a bias there.
If some of us like a more film look, set the wb to sunny. Thats pretty much what film had. Makes a big difference and takes the worry out of setting it for different occasions
I been shooting Olympus camera for
43 years i like muttedd also the picture profiles are fun
Being a user of 4 different cameras, to me it is important that I am able to achieve consistent color profiles between the different cameras.
Therefore I have chosen the color passport way making a reference shot at exact the same lightening conditions for all the cameras.
Most safe way is using a flash to shoot the passport and the compromise is shooting in the morning hours where light changes rather slowly in between you make the different reference shots.
Having done that I simply sit with the passport on one hand and adjust each camera color settings until there are no difference between them.
I don't use the Adobe tool offered in ACR as I find them non acurate. So perceptual calibration is my way to go.
When all that is done you may make your startpoint as a preset if so wanted. Depending on what's your way of post processing.
Working wih presets where all the sliders may be involved carries the risk you get inconsitent colors anyhow, so for avoiding that you may set you preset in photoshop instead of Lightroom or ACR. But change from the beginning to work in LAB colors where changes in slider adjustmets, contrast etc, will not change your colors. When done, convert back to RGB or what ever gamut you are normally working in.
I'm using a simple set of cards (white, grey and black), and they make life easier, but of course the more sophisticated tools can be more versatile. Also there's just one tiny thing that was not mentioned in the video: Olympus has two basic white balance setings (hidden in the menus): a warmer and a neutral one. I guess by default it favors the warmer one, which I always switch to the neutral. Just check the menu for WB settings (not the supercontrol, but the robust one :D) and experiment which one is closer to your liking.
As a mainly travel photographer I consider Olympus auto white balance to be excellent, remembering opportunities and conditions can change quite quickly, generally shoot RAW, but still pretty happy with JPEG, if the colors are slightly out I don't mind adjusting in post
Very helpful, directly to the point, thanks.
Hello Joseph, great tutorial as always. I have underestimated the importance of WB so many times, and you make it look so easy.
To get the skin color right or the black suit to be black and not blue or white dress not to be pink ....
Thank you so much.
Another very helpful video on a super important topic thanks very much for simplifying this great job!
Great tutorial thanks. Love that you present everything so succinctly and clearly. I really enjoy playing with some of the filters and if you leave it on raw you get both Jpeg and raw. You can also bracket them I believe on the pen f, but I haven’t tried that yet.
Coffee filters work GREAT with Olympus One Touch WB. When you are on location or an event... keep it with you in your shirt pocket, pull it out, put in front of the lens and snap the one touch WB (I got it set on my 12-40 L-Fn button) It is so efficient, I promise you.
For studio, yeah, buy a color checker/grey card passport which works best for skin tones and color in general and because you don't have to carry it around for the whole day.
Super helpful!
Good explanation, thanks
I keep saying that any settings "for the jpeg" that alter the gain, also alter the raw. Which is most settings. Notably WB and Picture Mode, highlight-shadow (gain curve), but also sharpening, NR. contrast, (all three are selective gain), and saturation. Nearly everything you fiddle with alters the exposure values in some way.
Thank you for another great video.
Great video!! I recently purchased a spydercheckr24 card, not as rugged as the passport checker, but great for studio work. I find that sometimes Olympus goes too red on auto white balance, so setting a custom white balance is vital so lips don’t seem like too much weird lipstick has been applied 😂
Nice tutorial. I actually find that I prefer the Adobe "Color" profile over their camera matching profiles for my E-M1MKII. This makes it easy for me.
Oh my! I got the omd em5ii and I dunno where to start!! It’s my first camera!😬😐
getting my 1st Olympus later this year!either the 1mkii or the 5mkiii!I bought the 10mkii for my big brother in april!!I like their menus and I only purchase it for the 4K video functions!
Does the sequence order of raw edits affect the final result, and if so what do you recommend? E.g. white balance, exposure, camera picture profile (natural), noise reduction, etc.
No the sequence wouldn’t make a difference but I’ll always do white balance first. Habit I guess.
@@JosephEllisPhotographer Thanks! Learning loads from your great channel. Really appreciate it.
Good tutorial but you had the kelvin values backwards... you said the lower the value the more orangey... It's the opposite... the lower the value , the more blue it will be...
I have tried setting my E-M1 MkII on CWB in order to to use a CTO or CTB gel with off camera flash (Godox) - but when I do this, my camera self reverts back to auto white balance...but when I turn the flash off, it stays in the CWB mode...am I missing a setting somewhere in the menu, or is there a possibility there is a software glitch - has anyone else run into this issue? I tried this in RAW and JPG - same result.
There is a setting where the camera will default to flash WB, try - Gear Menu - F - adjust flash + white balance.
Life Saver - watched a handful of your videos before dumping Canon and picking up my Olympus - I'm all in and and loving it so far! (Instagram) @k9photogallery @@JosephEllisPhotographer
What I'm seeing on my olympus em1 mark II LCD is not what I'm seeing with my own eyes for example orange on the LCD screen is more red than orange.
Maybe try a custom white balance - that should give you accurate colors/settings to judge the screen. Also make sure your picture profile is in Natural or Flat to make sure there isn’t a bias there.
LCD brightness might be out of tune or temp.
Setup (wrench) menu. On E-M10 II there's a [Natural] and a [Vivid] switch.
i think the info very important but you speak too quickly. i can't follow you... thanks...