Thanks a lot Garrett, that is a big help. I hate to admit this but I saw this video of yours a long time ago and forgot all about it. I won't forget it this time. Thanks again. Jim
I have been using mice since they were first invented (I worked in research at Xerox ) . . . I find the best mouse to be the Logi MX Master 3S mouse. Expensive but well worth it. Thanks for all your tips.
Thank you for your videos are so very helpful and thank you Joe for allowing Garrett to use this video . I just ordered the basic router package and excited to get started on my CNC machine. I only wish I would’ve found your videos before my has been purchased my shark machine.
Nikki, you're so welcome! I'm glad to help and Joe is awesome for letting me share with you. I'm looking forward to you getting your new bits and seeing what you create with them!
I first started using personal computers or terminals in the 1980s and the golden rule was Save and Save often. In those days it was a difficult and often impossible to recover data after a computer crash.
Open contours is something I've dealt with in Mastercam for years. A tool will just not go around it, or only a small portion of the contour will be cut, especially in 3D. In Vectric it seems to be called an open Vector. Similar thing with a different name. I had to go in there and zoom up the image until I saw an open gap and drew a line to connect them. Or ends of entities (as they are called in Mastercam) are overlaying each other in a branch like configuration. The tool does not know which way to go. You have to go in there and trim off the excess entities to eliminate the intersections, or "branch points". Vectric seems to have similar issues but calls them something different. I would have probably trimmed that funky branch in the "open vector" (Vectric speak), but the way you did it with the nodes is obviously fine. One of the issues with learning Vectric after years of Mastercam, is the same or similar things are called something different.
CNC Programmer, you bring up some really great points brother. The open vectors can be a frustrating problem on all software programs even though they may go by different names.
Hi Garrett, I was just wondering is there some sort of comparison between all the Vectric software, kind of what's included and what's not. You show 5 Design Software 4 of the vCarve or Vectic types and the reason I am concerned is the price of all the different ones and what are they missing on the lower end of them. Can you demonstrate the differences
Marty, I totally understand brother, sometimes it's hard to find the info about the different versions of the Vcarve software. Basically, these are the main differences between the 3 versions: Vcarve Desktop: You can create designs with dimensions up to 24" x 24". Depending on what you are making, this may or may not work for you. You can also cut out 3D projects, but you CANNOT design/create your own 3D project. Here's the link → bit.ly/3D4CwjH Vcarve Pro: You can create larger projects that are not limited to specific sizes (unlimited dimensions). You can also cut out 3D projects, but you CANNOT design/create your own 3D project. Here's the link → bit.ly/3d4WrEU Vcarve Aspire: The same as Pro in terms of dimensions (unlimited dimensions). But you CAN design and edit 3D projects. Here's the link → shrsl.com/37pw9 These are the basic differences. But you can also choose to purchase one and upgrade to another for just the difference in price. Ex: if you buy the Desktop version, you can always upgrade to the Pro version at a later time if you end up needing it for just the difference in price between the two.
hi', Is it possible to have a listing of the keys and actions they will help you to do will setting up designs etc. ? I thinks with one it would helpall beginers like me to do the operations we need to do often . Thanks !
Garrett, how about doing a video on machining holes with Vectric? I have never had any luck at all trying to do this. I will take a piece of dowel for example and measure it's diameter with a $200.00 set of Mitutoyo digital calipers and enter that dimension into my program and they never fit. The hole is either too big or too small. I have give up on trying this and now what I do is to use a 1/16" end mill and peck drill small holes just below the surface of the material and then use those holes to line up spur on a Forstner bit and drill them out on the drill press . Maybe Vectric is not capable of doing this to within thousandths of an inch, I don't know. Sure wish I could get it to work as it would save a lot of time and wasted effort. Thanks.
Cutting tools can be a bit off their supposed size. If the tool is a bit smaller then the expected dimensional size, you may get smaller holes. Tools can run out in the collet, giving you larger holes. If your gantry is not perpendicular to your table, you can get a weird hole. Direction of cut also makes a difference. If you are climb cutting, your tool is pushing away from the material. If you are conventional cutting your toll is pulling into the material. You can cut several holes the same size that are cutting in different directions and some might be large and others small. I'm assuming you are using a CNC Router and not a CNC Machining Center. The routers are just not as solid and rigid as machining centers and are not nearly as accurate positioning wise. Is Vectric not capable of doing it? Are your cut directions always the same? Is your machine accurate a rigid enough to do it? Lot's of variables.
Did you really want the plug left in the hole unattached to the board? Unless you made sure that area was anchored down to the spoil board (perhaps with tape) as soon as it was "freed" it would catch on the bit and quite possibly get flung out doing damage to something?
Gilroy, very good point brother. The best method to hold down this project would definitely be the superglue method. Dont want anything flying around the shop!
@@IDCWoodcraft Then there would be no need for tabs, so even better. Personally for small regions like this, I'd machine with a pocket toolpath to make the hole disappear up the vacuum pipe - no chance of anything being flung across the workshop. I got this tip from a Kitchen Cabinet company with a huge Biesse machine with vacuum bed when I was installing a robot board loader to the machine. The software they use, automatically does this for any waste under a certain size that may be too small for the vacuum table to keep hold of securely. Very impressive.
I have a square board: - base: 510x510mm - top: 499x499mm - thickness: 59mm I want to make a toolpath so that the final result has its sides cut at 84,6 deg. I need some help here, since I'm a bit new in this and figuring out what setting should I use messes my brain and so far I couldn't find any info regarding my issue anywhere.
Rosumpara5442, sorry my friend this one is a little too tricky to answer over comments. I recommend joining Kate and I for our RUclips live sessions we host every Wednesday at 8PM EST. We should be able to help give you guidance there!
Hello . Out of desperation has any got an error code "Can't tool setting with out home! " I just set up my Axiom AR8 and I am not able to set the tool on the puck. my machine gives me that error code on the "Rich Auto 58 hand held controller. I have been able to jog the machine around and I moved it to try and set the tool but I would get that error message then I would home it and then try and set it and the message would come up again, so I am at a loss and my mind is racing did I buy a hunk of junk for 15grand or is it something stupid I am just not seeing.... any help would be greatly appreciated..
@@IDCWoodcraft Hey there, I thought I would reach back out because you were so kind as to read my comment. So I called Axiom a few moments ago and the solution to this error code has to do with 4th axis "A" if you do not have a 4th axis it needs to be disabled . I would also like to say he was very helpful and generous with his time this morning. He gave me other tips as well on maintenance and controlling things from the Rich Auto 58 controller . Thank you again I enjoy watching your videos they are very informative and make me think about how to possibly generate a revenue stream with my new cnc machine. Have a fantastic day..
I enjoy your videos they are informative but I feel they are twice as long as they need to be. I would cut the hole in the handle as a pocket, otherwise you have left an unsupported piece of wood, no tabs, that could get caught by the spinning bit and potentially ruin the project.
Going to start afresh and watch all your beginner tutorials as you explain things that others assume you know but if you’re computer illiterate and only self taught over the last couple of years these tutorials are for you brilliant can not thank you enough
You are cutting the outside of the board and the hole with one tool path. Shouldn’t that be two paths, the OUTSIDE of the board with an outside cut and the second hole cut on the INSIDE of the hole, Making the hole the diameter as it was drawn. I think the hole will be larger than the drawn hole if it is drawn with one tool path. Thanks
You are correct. Even if the hole was sized intentionally to compensate for the bit radius good practice is to do an inside cut so that mistakes are not made. If you were to change the size of the bit and use the same tool path the hole would be of incorrect size with an outside cut. If it were an inside cut it would not matter.
I couldn't agree more with Steven. He's spot on! You're absolutely right, I probably should have mentioned that one somewhere in the video to avoid the confusion brother!
Fixing open vectors is the bane of beginning designers.
Kevin, I couldn't agree more brother!
Great job Garrett. Content and presentation format...EXCELLENT!
rjcarpenter774, Thank you so much for the positive feedback! I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
Garrett you are fantastic at teaching. You make everything so easy to uderstand.
Rob, im so glad to hear that brother!
🌵 Thank you because I didn't 'node' that my 'groupie' caused such a problem 🥴🌵
William, good one brother.
Thanks Garrett for explaining how this works it will make it easier to get to designing thanks again
Bret, happy to help brother!
Thanks a lot Garrett, that is a big help. I hate to admit this but I saw this video of yours a long time ago and forgot all about it. I won't forget it this time. Thanks again.
Jim
Jim, I'm glad you enjoyed it brother. It never hurts to hear it a second time my friend!
I have been using mice since they were first invented (I worked in research at Xerox ) . . . I find the best mouse to be the Logi MX Master 3S mouse. Expensive but well worth it. Thanks for all your tips.
SouthernOregonCoast, I couldn't agree more brother! So happy to hear this video helped you.
Thank you for your videos are so very helpful and thank you Joe for allowing Garrett to use this video . I just ordered the basic router package and excited to get started on my CNC machine. I only wish I would’ve found your videos before my has been purchased my shark machine.
Nikki, you're so welcome! I'm glad to help and Joe is awesome for letting me share with you. I'm looking forward to you getting your new bits and seeing what you create with them!
This are great videos.. I recommend this channel for all beginners
Bob, thank you brother! Happy to hear this channel is helping you out so much!
Great tutorial Garrett! Very in-depth as usual. Many thanks.
Gayle, you are so welcome brother! Happy to help
As always your videos are very helpful. Makes it easier to refer back to your videos for a future reference. Thanks Garrett for your continued help.
Ron, glad you enjoyed it brother! You're so welcome!
Thanks for these tutorials Garrett.......so many questions answered!! Keep them coming,Please!!
Steven, you're welcome! You bet, more to come my friend!
Another GREAT VIDEO!! I hate Dillon had an issue but I'm also glad he did so a video could be made
VABEARHUNTER, thanks! I'm glad it was helpful for you!
I love your chanel muchas gracias from Juarez Mexico.
Ernesto, you are so welcome brother!
Awesome video Thank you Sir.
Emanuel, you are so welcome my friend.
Thanks for the help Garrett!
Dylan, you are so welcome my friend.
Good lesson 🤙🏼
Sled, glad you liked this one brother!
Cool video, great job
Jordan, thank you brother. Glad you liked it.
As always great video!!! Always learn new tricks.
JosephBravata, glad to hear it brother!
I love your channel Its been a great help
randyalgar8958, I am so happy to hear that brother. Happy CNCing.
Great info on open vectors, thank you. Have you done any tutorials on how to do the design for a charcuterie board? Thank you.
TommyCrossman, glad you liked this one brother! I am sorry but I dont have a video on Charcuterie boards yet.
Thanks Garret, this is bruutt again.
This time from my new youtube account.
Hi Bruutt, happy to have you here brother!
After editing the Nodes, I suggest doing a Save project before creating the toolpaths.
Dave, truer words have never been spoken. Saving as soon as possible is a great idea.
I first started using personal computers or terminals in the 1980s and the golden rule was Save and Save often. In those days it was a difficult and often impossible to recover data after a computer crash.
Thank you very much great stuff
josephkickbusch340, You're very welcome! Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks!
Thank you Dennis!
Open contours is something I've dealt with in Mastercam for years. A tool will just not go around it, or only a small portion of the contour will be cut, especially in 3D. In Vectric it seems to be called an open Vector. Similar thing with a different name.
I had to go in there and zoom up the image until I saw an open gap and drew a line to connect them. Or ends of entities (as they are called in Mastercam) are overlaying each other in a branch like configuration. The tool does not know which way to go. You have to go in there and trim off the excess entities to eliminate the intersections, or "branch points".
Vectric seems to have similar issues but calls them something different. I would have probably trimmed that funky branch in the "open vector" (Vectric speak), but the way you did it with the nodes is obviously fine. One of the issues with learning Vectric after years of Mastercam, is the same or similar things are called something different.
CNC Programmer, you bring up some really great points brother. The open vectors can be a frustrating problem on all software programs even though they may go by different names.
Awsome content 👍
andrewmcallister9250, so glad you like this one brother!
I might have missed it, but what is the purpose of adding those yellow tabs? Is it to keep the project stable while it's being cut?
Steve, you are exactly right brother! You dont want your project coming loose so you add tabs.
Hi Garrett, I was just wondering is there some sort of comparison between all the Vectric software, kind of what's included and what's not. You show 5 Design Software 4 of the vCarve or Vectic types and the reason I am concerned is the price of all the different ones and what are they missing on the lower end of them. Can you demonstrate the differences
Marty, I totally understand brother, sometimes it's hard to find the info about the different versions of the Vcarve software. Basically, these are the main differences between the 3 versions:
Vcarve Desktop: You can create designs with dimensions up to 24" x 24". Depending on what you are making, this may or may not work for you. You can also cut out 3D projects, but you CANNOT design/create your own 3D project. Here's the link → bit.ly/3D4CwjH
Vcarve Pro: You can create larger projects that are not limited to specific sizes (unlimited dimensions). You can also cut out 3D projects, but you CANNOT design/create your own 3D project. Here's the link → bit.ly/3d4WrEU
Vcarve Aspire: The same as Pro in terms of dimensions (unlimited dimensions). But you CAN design and edit 3D projects. Here's the link → shrsl.com/37pw9
These are the basic differences. But you can also choose to purchase one and upgrade to another for just the difference in price. Ex: if you buy the Desktop version, you can always upgrade to the Pro version at a later time if you end up needing it for just the difference in price between the two.
It would have been nice to know what button starts the cutting process
musacman57, thanks brother I'll be sure to clarify that in the future.
hi', Is it possible to have a listing of the keys and actions they will help you to do will setting up designs etc. ? I thinks with one it would helpall beginers like me to do the operations we need to do often . Thanks !
LouisDesChamps, good call brother! I will work on making it more clear in future videos.
Will it work if you drag and connect the vector/nodes?
Rob, you should be able to brother!
Garrett, how about doing a video on machining holes with Vectric? I have never had any luck at all trying to do this. I will take a piece of dowel for example and measure it's diameter with a $200.00 set of Mitutoyo digital calipers and enter that dimension into my program and they never fit. The hole is either too big or too small. I have give up on trying this and now what I do is to use a 1/16" end mill and peck drill small holes just below the surface of the material and then use those holes to line up spur on a Forstner bit and drill them out on the drill press . Maybe Vectric is not capable of doing this to within thousandths of an inch, I don't know. Sure wish I could get it to work as it would save a lot of time and wasted effort. Thanks.
One thing to check is the size of the bit. Not all bits are the size they claim to be. That will throw off the size of the hole.
Jim, try taking a look at this video. It might help you out. Here's the link: ruclips.net/video/G0N7Nm3wbfU/видео.html
Cutting tools can be a bit off their supposed size. If the tool is a bit smaller then the expected dimensional size, you may get smaller holes. Tools can run out in the collet, giving you larger holes. If your gantry is not perpendicular to your table, you can get a weird hole. Direction of cut also makes a difference. If you are climb cutting, your tool is pushing away from the material. If you are conventional cutting your toll is pulling into the material. You can cut several holes the same size that are cutting in different directions and some might be large and others small.
I'm assuming you are using a CNC Router and not a CNC Machining Center. The routers are just not as solid and rigid as machining centers and are not nearly as accurate positioning wise.
Is Vectric not capable of doing it? Are your cut directions always the same? Is your machine accurate a rigid enough to do it? Lot's of variables.
Did you really want the plug left in the hole unattached to the board? Unless you made sure that area was anchored down to the spoil board (perhaps with tape) as soon as it was "freed" it would catch on the bit and quite possibly get flung out doing damage to something?
Gilroy, very good point brother. The best method to hold down this project would definitely be the superglue method. Dont want anything flying around the shop!
@@IDCWoodcraft Then there would be no need for tabs, so even better. Personally for small regions like this, I'd machine with a pocket toolpath to make the hole disappear up the vacuum pipe - no chance of anything being flung across the workshop. I got this tip from a Kitchen Cabinet company with a huge Biesse machine with vacuum bed when I was installing a robot board loader to the machine. The software they use, automatically does this for any waste under a certain size that may be too small for the vacuum table to keep hold of securely. Very impressive.
I have a square board:
- base: 510x510mm
- top: 499x499mm
- thickness: 59mm
I want to make a toolpath so that the final result has its sides cut at 84,6 deg.
I need some help here, since I'm a bit new in this and figuring out what setting should I use messes my brain and so far I couldn't find any info regarding my issue anywhere.
Rosumpara5442, sorry my friend this one is a little too tricky to answer over comments. I recommend joining Kate and I for our RUclips live sessions we host every Wednesday at 8PM EST. We should be able to help give you guidance there!
😍😍😍
Karl, glad you liked this one brother!
Trying figure out what type of laptop to buy
WilliamBigham, I have a video that should really help you. Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/Ykftr4YxORw/видео.htmlsi=iHOVaDR8k8Al-QH-
Hello . Out of desperation has any got an error code "Can't tool setting with out home! " I just set up my Axiom AR8 and I am not able to set the tool on the puck. my machine gives me that error code on the "Rich Auto 58 hand held controller. I have been able to jog the machine around and I moved it to try and set the tool but I would get that error message then I would home it and then try and set it and the message would come up again, so I am at a loss and my mind is racing did I buy a hunk of junk for 15grand or is it something stupid I am just not seeing.... any help would be greatly appreciated..
Hi Robert. I suggest calling axiom.
@@IDCWoodcraft Hey there, I thought I would reach back out because you were so kind as to read my comment. So I called Axiom a few moments ago and the solution to this error code has to do with 4th axis "A" if you do not have a 4th axis it needs to be disabled . I would also like to say he was very helpful and generous with his time this morning. He gave me other tips as well on maintenance and controlling things from the Rich Auto 58 controller . Thank you again I enjoy watching your videos they are very informative and make me think about how to possibly generate a revenue stream with my new cnc machine. Have a fantastic day..
@@robertkrueger3902 That's a good tip to know and remember for the axiom. Thanks for letting me know
I enjoy your videos they are informative but I feel they are twice as long as they need to be.
I would cut the hole in the handle as a pocket, otherwise you have left an unsupported piece of wood, no tabs, that could get caught by the spinning bit and potentially ruin the project.
John, glad to hear you enjoyed the video brother! That is a great suggestion for that hole in the handle so thank you for pointing that out.
❤
Andrew, glad you liked this one!
Going to start afresh and watch all your beginner tutorials as you explain things that others assume you know but if you’re computer illiterate and only self taught over the last couple of years these tutorials are for you brilliant can not thank you enough
You are cutting the outside of the board and the hole with one tool path. Shouldn’t that be two paths, the OUTSIDE of the board with an outside cut and the second hole cut on the INSIDE of the hole, Making the hole the diameter as it was drawn. I think the hole will be larger than the drawn hole if it is drawn with one tool path.
Thanks
You are correct. Even if the hole was sized intentionally to compensate for the bit radius good practice is to do an inside cut so that mistakes are not made. If you were to change the size of the bit and use the same tool path the hole would be of incorrect size with an outside cut. If it were an inside cut it would not matter.
I couldn't agree more with Steven. He's spot on! You're absolutely right, I probably should have mentioned that one somewhere in the video to avoid the confusion brother!
Thanks!
TerryNameth, You're welcome! I'm glad you enjoyed it!