Awesome video just what I was looking for!! I made a few plates with carvings on them but the back of the dish was just round and 1/2" thick I never even gave them out because I knew their had to be a way!! Thanks Mark!!
Thanks so much for doing this video it’s awesome and exactly what I’m after as I’m making shelves for an egg cupboard, can’t wait to see how it turns out. 😊
thanks Mark as always very well explained. I was going to email you for information on moulding tool path but you had all the answers for the problem I had in the projet I'm working on, in this video.!! And thank you for the millimeters too!
You are an awesome teacher Mark! I tried this with the “Draw Curve” tool to get a curved profile and it worked great! I overlayed it on top of the angled vector I created first as a guide for the start and stop points. I love learning VCarve, you make it easy to understand and most importantly, to apply it. Thank you, Mark.
Hi Mark, I need help with my settings. My inner circle is 1", my outer circle is 3", I want to cut out from the inner circle. How do I compute the angle? Material depth is 1" Thank you in advance.
Thanks Mark, a very good tutorial, i like your videos. I learned a lot from you. Wouldn't it be more efficient running a profile "internal" to cut the internal circle rather than creating a pocket?
Excellent video Mark. Thank you . I’m looking to make a few “catch all” trays with this method. Would it be right to assume the molding tool path could be used with shapes like rectangles and stars?
Mark, fantastic video! I was stumped at how to make finger recesses to get a deck a cards out from a hole. One things I did notice, after I created the pockets per your video.....now all of my pocket cuts are tapered, even in new projects. Any ideas how to reset it to have a straight down cut?
Hello Mark, how could I make a long socket holder. I would like them to be snug around them, keeping in mind some smaller sockets have that curve taper to the tip. Further on I would like to make it at an angle, meaning the bottom of the sockets are lower than the tip.
Great video Mark. I had a tapered toolpath made for me in Aspire to cut 3" thick ash at 45 degrees. The tool ran a full 360 not half at a time. Do you know how that was done?
Not off the top of my head, Lane. There are 4 or 5 ways of doing it in Aspire, so there's no telling which way the person did it without having the file open.
Hi there, You are teaching me (a complete newbie) a lot, thank you! A question. You say that it will always project out with a closed vector so you then split the circle into two halves. As al alternative why would you not have just left it as a closed vector and simply use the inner circle as the guide rail? Apologies if I am using the wrong terminology - as I said I am still really green at this.
Great video Mr Lindsay but a lot of work!! Would love to see you do this exact same on an elliptical design. Acts a lot different in my experience and it forces you to gap above or below toolpath which completely throws off your design. How do you stop that?
This is useful information. Thank you for doing it. You have a lot of good tips in there. But I don't think you needed to take a whole half-hour to present this information.
Actually, comparatively speaking, this is one of my shorter videos. It doesn't take me a half hour to do it on my own, but try this - draw 2 projects, and explain every step along the way as if you were showing someone who had never done it before. Time yourself doing that. You'll be surprised at how long that actually takes. And remember that I edited the video - it was longer before I did that.
I'm guessing we can somehow use this technique on outer profile tool paths as well? ...instead of applying draft to model. I'm not sure the result would be any different though but something to think about. Thanks Mark!
Adding draft to a model is not an option in VCarve, and the question I got was specifically about doing this in VCarve Desktop. Yes, you can add draft to a model in Aspire to get the same result. Actually, I can think of about 4 different ways of getting the same result in Aspire, but almost all of them aren't available in VCarve. As for doign this on an outside profile, just don't split the vector and the Moulding toolpath will project to the outside. Boom - done.
Hi Mark, why is that the (gap above toolpath) and (gap below toolpath) under "molding toolpath' setting can't be set to 'zero' as shown in the video? I select (gap below toolpath) and slide the slider all the way to the top... and a number will automatically fill in for me... it wont allow me to set to 0. thanks
Thanks for helping us all out. Curious tho...instead of the trick with the guide lines (which I was unaware that you could create additional guide lines, so thanks for that!), why did you not draw a square with .5 sides and then draw the diagonal? It is less clicks.
I did that mainly to reinforce the use of guide lines, as I've had a few questions about them as well. I certainly could have drawn a rectangle (and I almost did,) if I knew the diameters of the top and bottom holes. Having one diameter and an angle would have made it a bit more difficult, but not impossible. It's an option, and you could certainly do it that way. There are usually several ways of achieving the same goal, and any way you choose that gives you the result you want is certainly valid.
This video was a direct answer to a specific question a friend asked me. Having said that, I have used it to make grab handles in drawer faces, and a recess on the bottom of a cutting board that will allow you to put a plate underneath and catch meat juices.
You certainly could use a Profile toolpath. You have to figure a way to secure the center piece to the table (tabs, tape and CA glue, or whatever,) but it's a viable option.
HI Mark. Good vid: A couple questions. 1) Using Guides vs. a square. If I knew I needed a 1/2" diagonal line, why not draw a 1/2" square and then a line from one corner to another? Seems like fewer steps then dragging and offsetting 4 guide lines. 2): why not select the inner circle, reverse the direction of the profile vector and make the swept profile rather than cutting apart the outer circle? Thank you.
Thank you! The reason I used guides in this video was to reinforce their use. I'd had a lot of questions about using guides prior to making this video, so I decided to use them for this demonstration. You absolutely can use a rectangle to get your angle. The reason I didn't use the inner circle was to avoid potential damage to the bit or the machine. By selecting the inner circle and sweeping that profile upward and outward, that means your bit is going to move over to that inner circle, plunge in the full thickness of the material, then try to carve it's way up and out of the trench it just dug in one pass. A good percentage of CNC routers can handle that, but a bigger percentage of home/hobby CNC routers can't. Additionally, depending on the bit you're using, the bit may not have enough cutting length to be able to cut the full thickness in one pass. This is especially true with smaller diameter bits. If you try to cut material that's thicker than the cutting length of the bit, you WILL snap it off. I addressed both of these questions in Live Q&A #75, which followed the video, the day I released it. If you'd like to check out that Live Q&A, here's a link: ruclips.net/video/SnmaSAArJAc/видео.html
Great video as always Mark. Interesting that the resulting tool paths (circa. 18:40) are using both normal and climb milling - was this intentional ? can this be avoided (i.e. make it go clock wise or CCW in both halves ? From the second example (i.e. without cut through) I understand that the inner circle is actually not used for anything... Also would I be right to assume that you are not limited to a straight line and you could use the same method to create an ogee style cut without the need for an ogee bit (and probably also not limited to a circle for the guiding path...)?
Great video as I always learn a ton of useful information. For a smaller taper at 45deg, couldn’t you just use a 90deg V Bit instead of a ball nose to taper down to the smaller circle? Just a thought. I may be way off here. Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
That is absolutely an option, and it's probably the easiest way to go. But let's say the angle you need is 36 degrees. Unless you have a 72 degree v-bit made, you're stuck. But yes, your point is valid - I probably should have picked a different angle for the demonstration.
@@MarkLindsayCNC no worries. The technique you showed was valid and informational as I’ve never carved tapers and something I’ve been interested in doing here soon. I was just thinking a bit. Using a VBit, would the moulding tool path be the best option or would you recommend a different technique? Btw I’m using VCarve Pro. Thanks.
I'll discuss it more during the live Q&A, but you could pocket out the bulk of the material, select the bottom diameter vector, and do a Profile toolpath, machining ON the vector. And thinking about things like this is always a good thing. That's how we progress. It's one thing to say, "Do it this way," or "Don't do it this way." It's another thing to figure out why.
You mention the molding toolpath always projects outward with closed vectors. Why does the closed vector need to be cut in two places rather than one? One cut vector is an open vector. And yes, as mentioned in reply to another comment, in this case a 45 degree bevel bit does the job efficiently (of course only for 45).
The purpose of the video was to show how to create a taper with the Moulding Toolpath. To do that, you should use a ball nose bit, much like a 3D carve. Still, there are many ways to get the job done. If you can do it with a 90° v-bit, and have one big enough, by all means, go for it.
You would have to find a way to hold that inner piece so it didn't come loose when you cut it out. You can't use tabs in the Moulding toolpath. That's why I pocketed it out.
@@MarkLindsayCNC caveat I haven’t even purchased a cnc machine yet. Still evaluating the landscape and trying to find the courage to tell my wife I want to start a cbc business, lol. Thank you for your reply
Hi Mark, I am wanting to do a blank dish in a piece of wood. I can't seem to find what I am looking for on youtube. Is there an easy way to do this? I'm thinking 3" in diameter and 1/4" deep. It seems like it would be so easy, but I can't figure it out. Can you help me? Thanks, Paul
If you check out my video on creating a 2-sided dish, you'll find what you need. The difference will be that you won't need to set up a 2-sided job, and you won't need to worry about the second model for the bottom of the dish. Just focus on the Top side of the project in the video; set the diameter of the dish, draw your Vector Boundary, set the Shape Height of the dish, add a Zero Plane, and calculate the toolpaths, machining to the Vector Boundary. Preview and make changes if you need to. Here's a link to the 2-Sided Dish video: ruclips.net/video/M4JNMMG5YL0/видео.html
Could this also be done by cutting the bottom hole with a straight bit and then using a vcarve bit centered on the line at full depth? Or some sort of combination?
Yes - to a point. You could easily do this with a combination of a Profile or Pocket toolpath to clear out the center of the hole, then a Chamfer toolpath to create the tapered side. The Chamfer toolpath was not available when I recorded this video. The thing to remember is that by using the Chamfer toolpath, the angle of the taper is limited to the v-bits you have.
Ok cool, I'm just learning on a machine lately and was trying to figure out ways to do this. I figured if you don't need a specific angle or if the angle is the same as what you have for a v bit, then you can do it that way. This is a really cool tutorial for it though, much more control of all the things.
so i have a question. how do i make a tapered pocket? i basically want to make a square pocket with the floor of that pocket has a shallow end and deep end. ? i can’t figure out how to set it up i. software?
Why for hogging out the circle, did you not select a profile cut and cut inside the profile, rather than pocketing it out. Seems to me your method would take a lot longer. Learned how to do tapers though, so thank you for that.
Either way will work, Derek. Just know that using the Moulding Toolpath does NOT create a 3D component that you can attach 3D tabs to. Yes, you can create tabs with your Profile toolpath, but the minute you run that Moulding toolpath to create the taper, the tool is going to cut through those tabs. So if you use a Profile toolpath, make sure you have a way of securing the waste material in the center of your tapered hole. That's why I used the Pocket toolpath - to eliminate that possibility.
Now that you've showed us all who to go about it on a Flat Plane, how about showing us how to do a Taper on a 4th Axis. I've tried it about a dozen ways from Sunday and can't for the life of me figure out how it could be done in VCarve though it is pretty simple to do in Aspire.
Carving a taper in VCarve is pretty tricky, no matter what. Let me work on it a bit, and when I get it down, I'll certainly post a video on it. There's a lot of bad info on the internet, and I don't want to add to it by suggesting something I haven't done myself. I'd rather make sure it works before I make a suggestion.
mark im a "by hand" sign carver...new to cnc...when i hand rout a sign by hand i often need to create the illusion of depth by carving shallow in the foreground or bottom of a sign to a deeper depth to the background of the sign... as i learn how to create my layouts in aspire i find i cant see obvious way to increase the depth of the tool paths linearly from shallow cut to deeper cut from front to back in depth...how can i tell aspire i want all the tool paths the fallow a set linear depth from shallow to deep as i decide appropriate...?
That's something I'd not thought about. Are you looking for a tapered appearance as the carve transitions from the foreground to the background? Let me consult with a couple of my gurus and see if they have any input. I think I may have an idea or two, but I'll need a bit of time to make sure it works before I commit to saying it can or can't be done in the software. (I'm sure it can - I just need to confirm a couple of things and draw a few designs to dial in the process.)
Mark: Instead of breaking the outer circle into two vectors to get the toolpath to carve inwards, could you have selected the inner circle as the drive rail? Then, it would have carved outwards toward the outer circle, yes?
Yes, that is an option, Grant. The problem is you're now starting at the bottom and tapering outward and upward. That means for the first steps of the taper, you're machining away the entire thickness of the material at once. Is your machine capable of doing that in something like hard maple? Bit clearance also becomes an issue. What I mean by that is, depending on the tool, there may not be enough cutting length on the tool, or the collet may be in danger of crashing into the material. If the machine and tool is capable of cutting the entire thickness of the material, and there's plenty of clearance, then yes, you could project the toolpath up from the bottom hole.
No worries, Grant. That's one of the hardest parts of doing this as a hobby - thinking ahead to the machining process before you even have the design drawn. Most folks in an industrial or production environment are used to doing that (with a few exceptions,) but as hobbyists, we tend to focus on one thing at a time. I mean, we can draw anything we want - now cut it in the real world. Sometimes it just doesn't work. Just mounting the piece you want to carve is a challenge at times, and sometimes what we want to do just isn't possible on a home hobby machine. Now, where do I sign up for those big bucks? lol
A taper is a gradual reduction in thickness along a specific length. For instance, the entire surface of a piece of material can taper from .75 inches thick to .5 inches thick. A chamfer is an angle cut along an edge of a piece of material. It doesn't have to be to a specific depth.
Almost worked with bowl bit im doing a heart but the bottom and top over lap and leave ridges i can live with the ridges as it gonna be filled with wax for candle but the bottom is out of wack trying to figure out that now your tutorials are great
You could do that, yes - but suppose you want an 18° taper. The purpose of the video was to show how to carve a tapered hole in VCarve Desktop and Pro at basically any angle. I just used 45° as an example that everyone could relate to.
But.....But...Mark...what if your circles are not actually circles and irregular shapes? And therefore you do not have a consistent width of slope all the way around the tapered hole? Been driving myself crazy trying to find a solution to that riddle.
The purpose of the video was to show how to create a taper. The angle is irrelevant. I could have chosen 50° just as easily, and the process would have been the same.
Buonasera mi scusi se scrivo in italiano se scrivo in ita italiano se vuole posso tradurlo. Io avrei bisogno di fare la stessa lavorazione però a forma di cuore mi può dare qualche dritta su come farla, perché ho provato ma non riesco, oppure se ha qualche video dove viene spiegata mi farebbe piacere. Saluti Jonathan Cazzella
Instead of using a pocket tool path to remove the hole why not just profile tool path? That way you only have the cut time to cut one single internal outline to remove all that wood instead of hogging it all out.
Yes, you could use a profile toolpath. You'd need a way to secure it so it doesn't come loose after cutting it out, but that's not too difficult. There are many ways to accomplish the same end result. The purpose of this video was to demonstrate cutting the taper. How you deal with the waste in the center is your choice. Personally, I tend to pocket out the waste (depending on the size of the hole, of course) so I don't have to deal with trying to secure it to the spoilboard somehow.
"With a closed toolpath, the Moulding toolpath will always project to the outside"
Many thanks for explaining this!!!
The guideline tips were worth enough a watch! Great demonstration!
muchas gracias,eres el mejor.saludos desde chile
Very nice to see millimeters in the top of the video :-) , thanks Mark
As always, very informative. Thank you very much Mark for what you do.
Mark, thank you, all your videos have helped me at work tremendously.
Thank you, Mark. Just what I have been looking for.
love the fact that you write the inches to metric :) keep adding this to your videos :)
Hi Mark, thanks for your enormous effort sharing your knowledge, you are a saint.
Awesome instruction! Just what I was searching for. CNC would be even harder for me if it weren't for your teachings. Thanks Mark!
Awesome video just what I was looking for!! I made a few plates with carvings on them but the back of the dish was just round and 1/2" thick I never even gave them out because I knew their had to be a way!! Thanks Mark!!
very useful for speaker baffles. tapered rear of the hole is common for woofers to have some air clearance. GOLD!
Great tutorial! This is extremely helpful. Thanks you!
Thanks so much for doing this video it’s awesome and exactly what I’m after as I’m making shelves for an egg cupboard, can’t wait to see how it turns out. 😊
Such a good insight as to what can be done with more experience. Thank you Mark.
Awesome video Mark! Thank you!
Thanks Mark - GREAT instructions
thanks Mark as always very well explained. I was going to email you for information on moulding tool path but you had all the answers for the problem I had in the projet I'm working on, in this video.!!
And thank you for the millimeters too!
You are an awesome teacher Mark! I tried this with the “Draw Curve” tool to get a curved profile and it worked great! I overlayed it on top of the angled vector I created first as a guide for the start and stop points. I love learning VCarve, you make it easy to understand and most importantly, to apply it. Thank you, Mark.
Thank you very much! Keep working it!
Awesome! Thank you for the "mm notes" sir!!!
Such a great video! Thank you!!
awesome discussion on molding toolpath!
Whoa, thank you Mark. I can now build my dust collection reducers 👍👍👍
And they'll look far more professional than my idea of just doing nested round pockets of different diameters
Super video, thank you.
Hi Mark, I need help with my settings. My inner circle is 1", my outer circle is 3", I want to cut out from the inner circle. How do I compute the angle? Material depth is 1" Thank you in advance.
Thanks Mark, a very good tutorial, i like your videos. I learned a lot from you. Wouldn't it be more efficient running a profile "internal" to cut the internal circle rather than creating a pocket?
that´s a good way to make a wooden dish without a lathe :)
Can you create more of a profile vs straight angle?
Excellent video Mark. Thank you . I’m looking to make a few “catch all” trays with this method. Would it be right to assume the molding tool path could be used with shapes like rectangles and stars?
It certainly can. Just experiment and preview often!
Can you teach us how to do this making a candle holder. Candles graduated large to small?
Mark, fantastic video! I was stumped at how to make finger recesses to get a deck a cards out from a hole. One things I did notice, after I created the pockets per your video.....now all of my pocket cuts are tapered, even in new projects. Any ideas how to reset it to have a straight down cut?
Scratch that, it was selecting three tools to make the pocket. Deleted the ones I didn't need and it cleared up
Hello Mark, how could I make a long socket holder. I would like them to be snug around them, keeping in mind some smaller sockets have that curve taper to the tip. Further on I would like to make it at an angle, meaning the bottom of the sockets are lower than the tip.
Great video Mark. I had a tapered toolpath made for me in Aspire to cut 3" thick ash at 45 degrees. The tool ran a full 360 not half at a time. Do you know how that was done?
Not off the top of my head, Lane. There are 4 or 5 ways of doing it in Aspire, so there's no telling which way the person did it without having the file open.
Hi there,
You are teaching me (a complete newbie) a lot, thank you! A question. You say that it will always project out with a closed vector so you then split the circle into two halves. As al alternative why would you not have just left it as a closed vector and simply use the inner circle as the guide rail? Apologies if I am using the wrong terminology - as I said I am still really green at this.
Can you use a sweeping curve instead of a straight line?
Great video Mr Lindsay but a lot of work!! Would love to see you do this exact same on an elliptical design. Acts a lot different in my experience and it forces you to gap above or below toolpath which completely throws off your design. How do you stop that?
100%. Ever get an answer to this?
This is useful information. Thank you for doing it. You have a lot of good tips in there. But I don't think you needed to take a whole half-hour to present this information.
Actually, comparatively speaking, this is one of my shorter videos. It doesn't take me a half hour to do it on my own, but try this - draw 2 projects, and explain every step along the way as if you were showing someone who had never done it before. Time yourself doing that. You'll be surprised at how long that actually takes. And remember that I edited the video - it was longer before I did that.
I'm guessing we can somehow use this technique on outer profile tool paths as well? ...instead of applying draft to model. I'm not sure the result would be any different though but something to think about. Thanks Mark!
Adding draft to a model is not an option in VCarve, and the question I got was specifically about doing this in VCarve Desktop. Yes, you can add draft to a model in Aspire to get the same result. Actually, I can think of about 4 different ways of getting the same result in Aspire, but almost all of them aren't available in VCarve. As for doign this on an outside profile, just don't split the vector and the Moulding toolpath will project to the outside. Boom - done.
Hi Mark, why is that the (gap above toolpath) and (gap below toolpath) under "molding toolpath' setting can't be set to 'zero' as shown in the video? I select (gap below toolpath) and slide the slider all the way to the top... and a number will automatically fill in for me... it wont allow me to set to 0. thanks
Hi. Can this be done on a rectangular shape?
Drilling tapered hole my rail first profile next but want put lines around circle
Thanks for helping us all out.
Curious tho...instead of the trick with the guide lines (which I was unaware that you could create additional guide lines, so thanks for that!), why did you not draw a square with .5 sides and then draw the diagonal? It is less clicks.
I did that mainly to reinforce the use of guide lines, as I've had a few questions about them as well. I certainly could have drawn a rectangle (and I almost did,) if I knew the diameters of the top and bottom holes. Having one diameter and an angle would have made it a bit more difficult, but not impossible. It's an option, and you could certainly do it that way. There are usually several ways of achieving the same goal, and any way you choose that gives you the result you want is certainly valid.
@@MarkLindsayCNC understood, I just wanted to make sure there was no other reason. Thanks for responding!
Mark is it possible to make a 45 degree angle hole with v carve?
What types of things have you done with this procedure Mark? I'm assuming there is more to be had than just making countersinks for screws.
This video was a direct answer to a specific question a friend asked me. Having said that, I have used it to make grab handles in drawer faces, and a recess on the bottom of a cutting board that will allow you to put a plate underneath and catch meat juices.
Just wondering if using a profile cutout for the center instead of the pocket would be less wear on the .250" end mill?
You certainly could use a Profile toolpath. You have to figure a way to secure the center piece to the table (tabs, tape and CA glue, or whatever,) but it's a viable option.
HI Mark. Good vid: A couple questions. 1) Using Guides vs. a square. If I knew I needed a 1/2" diagonal line, why not draw a 1/2" square and then a line from one corner to another? Seems like fewer steps then dragging and offsetting 4 guide lines. 2): why not select the inner circle, reverse the direction of the profile vector and make the swept profile rather than cutting apart the outer circle? Thank you.
Thank you! The reason I used guides in this video was to reinforce their use. I'd had a lot of questions about using guides prior to making this video, so I decided to use them for this demonstration. You absolutely can use a rectangle to get your angle. The reason I didn't use the inner circle was to avoid potential damage to the bit or the machine. By selecting the inner circle and sweeping that profile upward and outward, that means your bit is going to move over to that inner circle, plunge in the full thickness of the material, then try to carve it's way up and out of the trench it just dug in one pass. A good percentage of CNC routers can handle that, but a bigger percentage of home/hobby CNC routers can't. Additionally, depending on the bit you're using, the bit may not have enough cutting length to be able to cut the full thickness in one pass. This is especially true with smaller diameter bits. If you try to cut material that's thicker than the cutting length of the bit, you WILL snap it off. I addressed both of these questions in Live Q&A #75, which followed the video, the day I released it. If you'd like to check out that Live Q&A, here's a link: ruclips.net/video/SnmaSAArJAc/видео.html
Great video as always Mark.
Interesting that the resulting tool paths (circa. 18:40) are using both normal and climb milling - was this intentional ? can this be avoided (i.e. make it go clock wise or CCW in both halves ?
From the second example (i.e. without cut through) I understand that the inner circle is actually not used for anything...
Also would I be right to assume that you are not limited to a straight line and you could use the same method to create an ogee style cut without the need for an ogee bit (and probably also not limited to a circle for the guiding path...)?
I hope I answered your questions satisfactorily during the Live Q&A, Eyal!
@@MarkLindsayCNC Very much so, thanks.
Great video as I always learn a ton of useful information. For a smaller taper at 45deg, couldn’t you just use a 90deg V Bit instead of a ball nose to taper down to the smaller circle? Just a thought. I may be way off here. Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
That is absolutely an option, and it's probably the easiest way to go. But let's say the angle you need is 36 degrees. Unless you have a 72 degree v-bit made, you're stuck. But yes, your point is valid - I probably should have picked a different angle for the demonstration.
@@MarkLindsayCNC no worries. The technique you showed was valid and informational as I’ve never carved tapers and something I’ve been interested in doing here soon. I was just thinking a bit. Using a VBit, would the moulding tool path be the best option or would you recommend a different technique? Btw I’m using VCarve Pro. Thanks.
I'll discuss it more during the live Q&A, but you could pocket out the bulk of the material, select the bottom diameter vector, and do a Profile toolpath, machining ON the vector. And thinking about things like this is always a good thing. That's how we progress. It's one thing to say, "Do it this way," or "Don't do it this way." It's another thing to figure out why.
You mention the molding toolpath always projects outward with closed vectors. Why does the closed vector need to be cut in two places rather than one? One cut vector is an open vector. And yes, as mentioned in reply to another comment, in this case a 45 degree bevel bit does the job efficiently (of course only for 45).
👍
Can you make spoons on the CNC using this method.
I would imagine you could, but I've never done it. Experiment and see what you come up with!
Seems like using a 90° V-bit instead of ball nose might yield a smoother surface with this profile?
The purpose of the video was to show how to create a taper with the Moulding Toolpath. To do that, you should use a ball nose bit, much like a 3D carve. Still, there are many ways to get the job done. If you can do it with a 90° v-bit, and have one big enough, by all means, go for it.
To save wear and tear on the wide bit, could you have done a profile path yo the inside of the inner circle then remove the interior?
You would have to find a way to hold that inner piece so it didn't come loose when you cut it out. You can't use tabs in the Moulding toolpath. That's why I pocketed it out.
@@MarkLindsayCNC caveat I haven’t even purchased a cnc machine yet. Still evaluating the landscape and trying to find the courage to tell my wife I want to start a cbc business, lol. Thank you for your reply
I'm trying to get this to work from a square to a circle for a custom shower pan but can't get it to cooperate 😢
Hi Mark, I am wanting to do a blank dish in a piece of wood. I can't seem to find what I am looking for on youtube. Is there an easy way to do this?
I'm thinking 3" in diameter and 1/4" deep. It seems like it would be so easy, but I can't figure it out. Can you help me? Thanks, Paul
If you check out my video on creating a 2-sided dish, you'll find what you need. The difference will be that you won't need to set up a 2-sided job, and you won't need to worry about the second model for the bottom of the dish. Just focus on the Top side of the project in the video; set the diameter of the dish, draw your Vector Boundary, set the Shape Height of the dish, add a Zero Plane, and calculate the toolpaths, machining to the Vector Boundary. Preview and make changes if you need to. Here's a link to the 2-Sided Dish video: ruclips.net/video/M4JNMMG5YL0/видео.html
Could this also be done by cutting the bottom hole with a straight bit and then using a vcarve bit centered on the line at full depth? Or some sort of combination?
Yes - to a point. You could easily do this with a combination of a Profile or Pocket toolpath to clear out the center of the hole, then a Chamfer toolpath to create the tapered side. The Chamfer toolpath was not available when I recorded this video. The thing to remember is that by using the Chamfer toolpath, the angle of the taper is limited to the v-bits you have.
Ok cool, I'm just learning on a machine lately and was trying to figure out ways to do this. I figured if you don't need a specific angle or if the angle is the same as what you have for a v bit, then you can do it that way. This is a really cool tutorial for it though, much more control of all the things.
so i have a question. how do i make a tapered pocket? i basically want to make a square pocket with the floor of that pocket has a shallow end and deep end. ? i can’t figure out how to set it up i. software?
Why for hogging out the circle, did you not select a profile cut and cut inside the profile, rather than pocketing it out. Seems to me your method would take a lot longer. Learned how to do tapers though, so thank you for that.
Either way will work, Derek. Just know that using the Moulding Toolpath does NOT create a 3D component that you can attach 3D tabs to. Yes, you can create tabs with your Profile toolpath, but the minute you run that Moulding toolpath to create the taper, the tool is going to cut through those tabs. So if you use a Profile toolpath, make sure you have a way of securing the waste material in the center of your tapered hole. That's why I used the Pocket toolpath - to eliminate that possibility.
@@MarkLindsayCNC mank thanks for the reply and explaination of your reasoning. Cheers
Once again Mark Lindsay to the rescue LOL but true
Now that you've showed us all who to go about it on a Flat Plane, how about showing us how to do a Taper on a 4th Axis.
I've tried it about a dozen ways from Sunday and can't for the life of me figure out how it could be done in VCarve though it is pretty simple to do in Aspire.
Carving a taper in VCarve is pretty tricky, no matter what. Let me work on it a bit, and when I get it down, I'll certainly post a video on it. There's a lot of bad info on the internet, and I don't want to add to it by suggesting something I haven't done myself. I'd rather make sure it works before I make a suggestion.
mark im a "by hand" sign carver...new to cnc...when i hand rout a sign by hand i often need to create the illusion of depth by carving shallow in the foreground or bottom of a sign to a deeper depth to the background of the sign... as i learn how to create my layouts in aspire i find i cant see obvious way to increase the depth of the tool paths linearly from shallow cut to deeper cut from front to back in depth...how can i tell aspire i want all the tool paths the fallow a set linear depth from shallow to deep as i decide appropriate...?
That's something I'd not thought about. Are you looking for a tapered appearance as the carve transitions from the foreground to the background? Let me consult with a couple of my gurus and see if they have any input. I think I may have an idea or two, but I'll need a bit of time to make sure it works before I commit to saying it can or can't be done in the software. (I'm sure it can - I just need to confirm a couple of things and draw a few designs to dial in the process.)
@@MarkLindsayCNC thank you mark...:-)
Mark: Instead of breaking the outer circle into two vectors to get the toolpath to carve inwards, could you have selected the inner circle as the drive rail? Then, it would have carved outwards toward the outer circle, yes?
Yes, that is an option, Grant. The problem is you're now starting at the bottom and tapering outward and upward. That means for the first steps of the taper, you're machining away the entire thickness of the material at once. Is your machine capable of doing that in something like hard maple? Bit clearance also becomes an issue. What I mean by that is, depending on the tool, there may not be enough cutting length on the tool, or the collet may be in danger of crashing into the material. If the machine and tool is capable of cutting the entire thickness of the material, and there's plenty of clearance, then yes, you could project the toolpath up from the bottom hole.
@@MarkLindsayCNC I should have thought of that, duh! That's why they pay you the big bucks, Mark. :-) Tks much.
No worries, Grant. That's one of the hardest parts of doing this as a hobby - thinking ahead to the machining process before you even have the design drawn. Most folks in an industrial or production environment are used to doing that (with a few exceptions,) but as hobbyists, we tend to focus on one thing at a time. I mean, we can draw anything we want - now cut it in the real world. Sometimes it just doesn't work. Just mounting the piece you want to carve is a challenge at times, and sometimes what we want to do just isn't possible on a home hobby machine.
Now, where do I sign up for those big bucks? lol
What’s the difference between chamfer and taper???
A taper is a gradual reduction in thickness along a specific length. For instance, the entire surface of a piece of material can taper from .75 inches thick to .5 inches thick. A chamfer is an angle cut along an edge of a piece of material. It doesn't have to be to a specific depth.
Could you use a cove bit or a bowl bit guess they are similar bits
I've not tried it, but I don't know why it wouldn't work. Give it a try, but make sure to preview it to see if you get the result you're looking for.
Almost worked with bowl bit im doing a heart but the bottom and top over lap and leave ridges i can live with the ridges as it gonna be filled with wax for candle but the bottom is out of wack trying to figure out that now your tutorials are great
got it had to move the nodes wouldnt have got this without your help keep up the great work
Glad to hear you got it sorted!
I do have a question. SInce you are cutting a 45 degree hole shouldn't you use a 45 degree V-bit? Just thinking out loud.
You could do that, yes - but suppose you want an 18° taper. The purpose of the video was to show how to carve a tapered hole in VCarve Desktop and Pro at basically any angle. I just used 45° as an example that everyone could relate to.
But.....But...Mark...what if your circles are not actually circles and irregular shapes? And therefore you do not have a consistent width of slope all the way around the tapered hole? Been driving myself crazy trying to find a solution to that riddle.
That's where you get into 3D modeling territory, which was outside of the scope of this video. For that, you need to do a 2-rail sweep (Aspire only.)
@@MarkLindsayCNC Been trying that...can''t get it to work but thank you for the reply Mark.
For a 45 degree, why not use a v bit?
The purpose of the video was to show how to create a taper. The angle is irrelevant. I could have chosen 50° just as easily, and the process would have been the same.
I thought originally the board was 1" thick. Any angle diagonally across a SQUARE is going to be 45°
Buonasera mi scusi se scrivo in italiano se scrivo in ita italiano se vuole posso tradurlo. Io avrei bisogno di fare la stessa lavorazione però a forma di cuore mi può dare qualche dritta su come farla, perché ho provato ma non riesco, oppure se ha qualche video dove viene spiegata mi farebbe piacere. Saluti Jonathan Cazzella
แล้วเส้น แรกทำเพื่ออ่ะไร?
Instead of using a pocket tool path to remove the hole why not just profile tool path? That way you only have the cut time to cut one single internal outline to remove all that wood instead of hogging it all out.
Yes, you could use a profile toolpath. You'd need a way to secure it so it doesn't come loose after cutting it out, but that's not too difficult. There are many ways to accomplish the same end result. The purpose of this video was to demonstrate cutting the taper. How you deal with the waste in the center is your choice. Personally, I tend to pocket out the waste (depending on the size of the hole, of course) so I don't have to deal with trying to secure it to the spoilboard somehow.
Hi Mark I’ve sent you a PM on Facebook
I'm sorry, Sue, but I never got it. I'm not on Facebook much at all. I'm rarely at my computer, as I have a ton going on behind the scenes.
@@MarkLindsayCNC I was having a few issues with numbers.