the copper brake lines are likely a nickle-copper alloy. they were very common on cars up through the 1980's (volvo used them on the 240's, 740's, and 940's for instance.) when I'm replacing steel brake lines I always go with ni-cop lines, mostly because they're way, way easier to bend. they also have the added benefit of not rusting out, too.
Greetings from Manitoba, Canada. I am impressed how much work buddy gets done on his own. He does however have all the right tools and machines to help him. Very enjoyable to watch and hear the dry humour.
WARNING!!! The replacement axle you have is from a International halftrack. The gearing will not match up to the front axle. The axle you took off is a Timken axle used on White, Autocar and Diamond-T halftracks.
That would explain it. Do you happen to know what the gear ratio is? I can change front tire diameters to match it back up. Good thing I didn't buy new front tires!
James, greetings from beautiful Rayong, Thailand, The Land of Smiles. I just found your channel and love the humor, variety of projects, and your mechanical knowledge. Now I have many episodes to catch up on. Keep having fun.
I know this is a year late, but I’ve seen all your newer videos and now watching older ones, this channel is great, good mix of humor and doing neat auto projects, I’m just starting to get large garage built so I can do I some of my own projects, I’m not good rolling around on a creeper any more but love to keep busy. What I really like about your channel is the eclectic mix of vehicles.
Don't you love it when you're starting a new project?! I love the cleaning and investigating part most of all. Seeing what parts are good and can be rebuilt, and seeing how much work needs to be done to the frame. I sure wish I lived closer! I would really like to help on this resto--------rod or ration. Either one is fine with me.
I'm thanking you for your time making the show, It's good to know that by watching I'm now completely qualified to refurbish big old things. Paint preparation, got it. Thanks mate. I wonder what you'll do to it next?
I think that this channel is a TON of fun to watch. I have seen SO many of your vids now, I am just beginning to know what to expect. Thanks for all you are doing for all of us.
25:45 my best guess is that they're the same axle just the one that came off the halftrack was modified for military use (aka making it bomb proof) from some track machine which was a common practice in war times.
*- James, you got a great channel.* *- I hope people are remembering to hit the "LIKE" button to advance your channel's ratings.* *- {the old "Like and Subscribe" stuff is useful... and given your great sense of humor...you can make that part fun, too ! ! !}*
I have to admire how you do everything on your own and carry on with the filming. It’s all on a large scale. I used the change wheel sets axles and axle bearing box’s on full size trains from 1900 on the Volks Railway in Brighton UK, but nothing on the same scale as you.
Hey man, you made a good move when removing the donor axle by NOT removing those massive U bolts. You diddnt comment but if you had done you would have neede to re-centralise and re-adjust the rotation when refitting the axle. Love you work and presentation. All the way, from the U.K.
My half ton military Dodge pickup and the early flat fender power wagons were built to allow the frame to flex to make up for the lousy suspension and allow them not to tear themselves apart as they went over very bumpy terrain. I have pictures of my truck climbing out of a ditch at a angle and the cab is pitching to the right, the nose is pointing to the left, and the bumper was in between. The frame and rivets supposedly were set up to move like that without damage. If the springs weren't rusted tight they actually rode pretty well over feilds at faster than crawling speeds. My 42 GPW Jeep actually rode better at around 20 to 30 mph on bumpy grass fields as well. There was some thought and engineering to how they were built and the way they'd be abused in military service. The early power wagons like mine used 3/4 ton suspension that was derated to half ton so it could take the overloading and general abuse that was expected. The newer 3/4 ton weapons carriers were much lower lower on the much beefier frame to lower the center of gravity and make them more stable and safer to drive and correct for all the problems they found in the half ton early trucks that were only built into 1942 early 43 because the new version was much stronger and improved every where.
WARNING!!! To everybody that has an old US halftrack from WWII. If you do not have a bed over the tracks... DO NOT drive the vehicle faster than about ten miles per hour. I was told a story by Tommy Hunt, parts manager of the defunct Southern Parts Corp. of Memphis, TN - World's Largest Supplier of Halftrack Parts. Tommy recounted the sad tale of two youngsters that were driving halftracks that had the original beds removed. They decided to drag race one another briefly. Far briefly than planned. The track broke on one and whipped up and decapitated one of the boys. At higher speeds, even if you have the original bed, should a track break it will whip about crazily and even try to keep going. (I speak from personal experience.) PS: There is a wrong way and a right way for a halftrack's rubber track to be put on. It has to do with the bolt on inner steel guide pieces. Each has a wider half. Which goes forward - I cannot remember.
How many ugga duggas? All of them! I can't wait to see what you do with this. A 24 valve Cummins would be fun, but then you wouldn't be Low-Buck Garage. Keep on having fun and thanks for the videos
In the UK it's quite common to replace your brake lines with copper. I've watched the number of British automobile restoration shows on the BBC and that's what they use though it could be a special kind of copper brake line and it still has to be double flared. It could be because copper doesn't rust?
@@LowBuckGarage Oops, sorry :o) for me it was; 8.5mm + 8.5mm is 19mm. I had to remake that part on the lathe. :o) Digital readout is good, but it doesn’t fix my stoopid :D
Superb video! Really good to get right into that running gear and see how the suspension on the bogies works. Shame that the 'Winne-Tracko' is no longer possible, but I can't wait to see what else you come up with. I hope it is just as insane.
Awesome video. I've watched most of your old videos and you weren't sure what to do with the tow tug. It's now the handiest thing since a pocket on a shirt. Plus nr forky is helping.
Thanks! Yeah, now the tow tug is my go-to vehicle for moving most everything. When I first saw it, I was debating if it was even worth the scrap metal price...
Just a thought but since you were thinking of putting a camper body on that before you realized the frame flex issue. Maybe do whatever you decide to for a cab then mount a largish truck camper you can find used to back. That way the frame can still flex but you still get your camper.
Has far as the copper brake lines, I own a 1958 Jet toter . It also had copper lines. I am wondering if this wasn't a thing back then. Great job on the half track. Looks great. Has always I liked and shared. All my best.
Thanks! I think you're right, it looks like brake lines used to be copper, and then they changed materials. Maybe they started having failures, and that's why they stopped using that material.
Can't say I've changed the axle of a half-track as of late, and I'm quite sure I won't need to in the foreseeable future. However, if the need arises, I'm game.
Wonder if the guy that had the axle in the shortened frame tank was the one who originally swapped the left and right hubs? If he turned the axle around to have the nose of the diff facing between the tracks, then he should have swapped the hubs left and right at the same time. My guess is the brake shop just rebuilt 'as-is' so they stayed the wrong way around.
I think that you're right. I didn't see it until I was uploading the video, but the pinion turns the wrong way. I think he flipped the ring and pinion center section with the diff cover to get it pointing to the back. Which means there will be a follow-up video of me pulling the rear out again, flipping all the internals around, and re-installing it the other way. At least the lug nuts will go to the correct side...
Need to use an old class C motor home, mount the coach over the rear and the cab on front, can also pick a cab of your choosing if wanted! Outta give it some flexibility!
You will find this interesting reading. Everything you need to know about copper brake lines. 4lifetimelines.com/blogs/knowledge-garage/are-copper-nickel-brake-lines-safe
You gotta check out DieselCreek’s latest video when he goes to an antique equipment show. There’s a half track with a huge cable shove mounted on the bed and giant plates to reinforce the frame!
You could make a camper fit, just make it flexible. Make it inflated, like an arena, so only semi-structural. Deflate & pack (like a tent) for driving.
A camper is made too move, to be taken into remote places, plus a camper on that rig is never going to see 65/70mph again, or why couldn't ya just put some suspension between the frame-n-camper if your really that worried about it, your logic eludes me on this one, lol, that would make a hell of a portable hunting cabin tho,👍, thanks for sharing.
The half-track frame is surprisingly tall. I measured it up, the camper body on the bare frame would put me over 12' high, stacking a frame and suspension in between would make some of the local bridges shave the roof off.
A rubber track on in half an hour is exceptionally good 👍 Especially with a dead machine. * put the long body on top but have a single pivot at the front? Honestly not my idea, the euro trial trucks have a single pivot boss on top of the front bumper for the roll cage.
That's going to be heavy, having a separate frame for the body on top of the chassis frame... Cool Two Frames... Nothing is better than absolute over kill!
I think the double frame would work, but its going to get really tall. I did some measuring, and I think there would be issues with fitting under local bridges.
@@LowBuckGarage oh well, you are only a few yards of two inch box section away from strengthening any body to be self supporting. Or maybe go with a cab from the same era as the chassis. (Maybe 50’s)
Since you said you need a separate cab\ bed setup, look at trucks. You could probably use a dodge cab and nose, then whatever you want for the bed. Reason I said dodge is because they had a taller nose for a Cummins diesel, and that would be a good way to get a reliable powertrain swapped in, and have the power to move that beast. As for the axles not matching, check how many times the pinion turns per tire rotation, and that can give you front axle gear ratio. Not exactly sure about the rear ratio, but I'm betting it will be in the high 4's, to 5 something. Like 5.13:1 maybe 4.88:1 because these had torque, not speed. You don't want speed off-road, because of control issues. I'm hoping to see a lot more about this vehicle in the future though, because it looks to have potential, and I don't want to see it go to waste.
You'll definitely see more of this one! I do like the Dodge cab idea, especially because I have a spare one lying around, but I don't have a spare Cummins. Luckily the gear ratio is really deep, like almost 7:1 on the front end and 4:1 on the rear (the drive sprockets are much smaller than tires). I think I can get away with a gas V-8 with that kind of gearing.
I enjoy how you just pretty much dive into a project and have fun doing it. I’m anal and sweat the small things, but wish I could be more like you and enjoy what I’m doing. Great job.
Check your gear ratio may be a totally different one. And why not put the camper body and frame on air ride. Should let the chassis flex without damaging your camper
I use Movavi version 14, because when I started it was the cheapest one I could find that looked good. I upgraded to a newer version a year or so ago, and found out the hard way that they no longer support the native gopro codec. I re-loaded the old version and it works fine.
G'day. Love your vid I was wondering about the diff ratio on a half track. Is the front axle the same ratio as the drive axle? On a 4WD they have to be the same to stop fight between the front and rear tyres. On a half track the tracks would would be like a gear reduction. Is this right? Karl.
Thanks! The gear ratios are different, because the front tires are a lot bigger than the drive sprockets. The front axle has a lot more reduction, and that makes the ground speed about the same.
Come to find out someone had flipped the ring and pinion over, so the whole axle is in backward! I've got to pull it out, spin it around, and then flip the center section and diff cover. Then the threads will be correct...
I definitely wouldn't scrap it. They aren't super valuable, but more than scrap value, especially if it still has the drive wheels with it. I paid $500 for the axle I bought, you would get less than half that at a scrap yard.
I’m enjoying the channel. How about a bit about you like do you work at the yard and how far away do you live? We don’t even know your name. I was also told copper is a no no for brake lines as it work hardens under vibration and fractures. My go to method for tightening bolts is snap it and back half a turn.😂 Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺
Thanks, glad you like it! My name is James and I'm southern New Mexico, about an hour north of Mexico. I try to avoid that bolt tightening method, but sometimes it does happen!
I can understand people keeping the flat head engines for originality........but otherwise, they are just so dam heavy on fuel. What is the situation with these half tracks on bitumen roads?
Yeah, I noticed that right as I was uploading the video. It looks like there will be a follow up video with flipping over the ring and pinion carrier...
@@LowBuckGarage I had a thought either the ring and pinion gears had been flipped or the whole axle flipped and brackets rewelded on. Possibly thats why the L and R studs are on the wrong sides. If someone had dome what you said about putting an engine in the ftrame of the tracks, then I suppose they would flip the axle to get it to do forward with the correct gears.
These videos are great, but I've watched about 6 vids so far and I still know virtually nothing about this man, like is that where he lives? What does he do for a living, etc. I still haven't caught what state he lives in. But it's amusing to watch.
Humour, knowledge and old vehicles makes a great channel 👍
the copper brake lines are likely a nickle-copper alloy. they were very common on cars up through the 1980's (volvo used them on the 240's, 740's, and 940's for instance.) when I'm replacing steel brake lines I always go with ni-cop lines, mostly because they're way, way easier to bend. they also have the added benefit of not rusting out, too.
you probably won't see this but that was an amazing shot at the beginning where you have the yellow halftrack moving into the left and turning green!
Greetings from Manitoba, Canada. I am impressed how much work buddy gets done on his own. He does however have all the right tools and machines to help him. Very enjoyable to watch and hear the dry humour.
That Tug is Amazingly useful, what a great addition to the Tool Box.
WARNING!!! The replacement axle you have is from a International halftrack. The gearing will not match up to the front axle. The axle you took off is a Timken axle used on White, Autocar and Diamond-T halftracks.
*- Nice catch. Phew !...Now what? Damn.*
That was well spotted.
That would explain it. Do you happen to know what the gear ratio is? I can change front tire diameters to match it back up. Good thing I didn't buy new front tires!
You know your 1/2 tracks
@@daleolson3506 I own several and have fully restored them to factory condition. I also sell parts all over the world.
I like those half tracks you have they're awesome even if they're not all complete
Learn something new every day. The next time I need to change tracks on a half track, I now know how. Thanks LBG👍👍
Happy to help, I'm sure that knowledge will come in handy!
James, greetings from beautiful Rayong, Thailand, The Land of Smiles. I just found your channel and love the humor, variety of projects, and your mechanical knowledge. Now I have many episodes to catch up on. Keep having fun.
I know this is a year late, but I’ve seen all your newer videos and now watching older ones, this channel is great, good mix of humor and doing neat auto projects, I’m just starting to get large garage built so I can do I some of my own projects, I’m not good rolling around on a creeper any more but love to keep busy.
What I really like about your channel is the eclectic mix of vehicles.
Don't you love it when you're starting a new project?! I love the cleaning and investigating part most of all. Seeing what parts are good and can be rebuilt, and seeing how much work needs to be done to the frame. I sure wish I lived closer! I would really like to help on this resto--------rod or ration. Either one is fine with me.
I'm thanking you for your time making the show, It's good to know that by watching I'm now completely qualified to refurbish big old things. Paint preparation, got it. Thanks mate. I wonder what you'll do to it next?
The key to great paint prep is always spend at least 23 -25 min.... that way you know its done right!
When I saw the halftrack a few episodes ago I wondered why you would
bother, now I see why and cant get enough!
I think that this channel is a TON of fun to watch. I have seen SO many of your vids now, I am just beginning to know what to expect. Thanks for all you are doing for all of us.
Just found this channel a few days ago, totally awesome.
Thanks for sharing. I can now see why that beast is so heavy. Really old school heavy duty IRON!
25:45 my best guess is that they're the same axle just the one that came off the halftrack was modified for military use (aka making it bomb proof) from some track machine which was a common practice in war times.
*- James, you got a great channel.*
*- I hope people are remembering to hit the "LIKE" button to advance your channel's ratings.*
*- {the old "Like and Subscribe" stuff is useful... and given your great sense of humor...you can make that part fun, too ! ! !}*
Thanks! I'm actually surprised that this many people like the odd things that I work on; its been a lot of fun.
Fun project! This video was just recommended and I'm glad to find your channel.
Awesome! Thank you!
Paint is looking sharp. Thanks for making great videos.
Glad you enjoyed it!
The boom and winch on the Coleman really paid off. Your uploads are realy appreciated! Cheers fom Sweden!👌
I am amazed by how many toys L-B has... also, a little jealous!
You sure made a lot of work look simple.
(I just did a video on a 3/4" drive ratchet set.....Now I know what they really are used for).
I have to admire how you do everything on your own and carry on with the filming. It’s all on a large scale. I used the change wheel sets axles and axle bearing box’s on full size trains from 1900 on the Volks Railway in Brighton UK, but nothing on the same scale as you.
Man, that's nasty!! The tracks look pretty good.
Hey man, you made a good move when removing the donor axle by NOT removing those massive U bolts. You diddnt comment but if you had done you would have neede to re-centralise and re-adjust the rotation when refitting the axle. Love you work and presentation. All the way, from the U.K.
That tug has been really useful.
Awesome what the paint did! Love this Thing! Good Playlist!!!😎🤠
Very cool! I can only imagine what you'll do with that, whatever you do I'm sure it'll be real cool!!!
My half ton military Dodge pickup and the early flat fender power wagons were built to allow the frame to flex to make up for the lousy suspension and allow them not to tear themselves apart as they went over very bumpy terrain. I have pictures of my truck climbing out of a ditch at a angle and the cab is pitching to the right, the nose is pointing to the left, and the bumper was in between. The frame and rivets supposedly were set up to move like that without damage. If the springs weren't rusted tight they actually rode pretty well over feilds at faster than crawling speeds. My 42 GPW Jeep actually rode better at around 20 to 30 mph on bumpy grass fields as well. There was some thought and engineering to how they were built and the way they'd be abused in military service. The early power wagons like mine used 3/4 ton suspension that was derated to half ton so it could take the overloading and general abuse that was expected. The newer 3/4 ton weapons carriers were much lower lower on the much beefier frame to lower the center of gravity and make them more stable and safer to drive and correct for all the problems they found in the half ton early trucks that were only built into 1942 early 43 because the new version was much stronger and improved every where.
You're right about that! I just have to keep in mind how the designers intended it to work, and go with that.
WARNING!!! To everybody that has an old US halftrack from WWII. If you do not have a bed over the tracks... DO NOT drive the vehicle faster than about ten miles per hour. I was told a story by Tommy Hunt, parts manager of the defunct Southern Parts Corp. of Memphis, TN - World's Largest Supplier of Halftrack Parts. Tommy recounted the sad tale of two youngsters that were driving halftracks that had the original beds removed. They decided to drag race one another briefly. Far briefly than planned. The track broke on one and whipped up and decapitated one of the boys. At higher speeds, even if you have the original bed, should a track break it will whip about crazily and even try to keep going. (I speak from personal experience.) PS: There is a wrong way and a right way for a halftrack's rubber track to be put on. It has to do with the bolt on inner steel guide pieces. Each has a wider half. Which goes forward - I cannot remember.
That's so sad
How many ugga duggas? All of them! I can't wait to see what you do with this. A 24 valve Cummins would be fun, but then you wouldn't be Low-Buck Garage. Keep on having fun and thanks for the videos
love the color combo - excited to see where it goes
I use those copper-nickel-ferrite brake hoses in my 40 years old Volkswagen. They are great!
Since almost no cab remains, would love to see a ww2 studebaker truck cab on that chassis.
*De-track a half track & make it a no-track!* 🤣 Only joking, great work with the teardown and repairs! 😁👍
Thanks 👍
In the UK it's quite common to replace your brake lines with copper. I've watched the number of British automobile restoration shows on the BBC and that's what they use though it could be a special kind of copper brake line and it still has to be double flared. It could be because copper doesn't rust?
That moment when right is left and there is a new filler plug on top and the drain is gone :o)
I had to go out and check after reading your comment. The drain plug is down and the vent is up, whew!
Picturing the mini-tank project, the rear end would have to be reversed, making left now right. Right?
@@LowBuckGarage Oops, sorry :o) for me it was; 8.5mm + 8.5mm is 19mm. I had to remake that part on the lathe. :o) Digital readout is good, but it doesn’t fix my stoopid :D
Superb video! Really good to get right into that running gear and see how the suspension on the bogies works.
Shame that the 'Winne-Tracko' is no longer possible, but I can't wait to see what else you come up with. I hope it is just as insane.
Thanks 👍
Awesome video. I've watched most of your old videos and you weren't sure what to do with the tow tug. It's now the handiest thing since a pocket on a shirt. Plus nr forky is helping.
Thanks! Yeah, now the tow tug is my go-to vehicle for moving most everything. When I first saw it, I was debating if it was even worth the scrap metal price...
Just a thought but since you were thinking of putting a camper body on that before you realized the frame flex issue. Maybe do whatever you decide to for a cab then mount a largish truck camper you can find used to back. That way the frame can still flex but you still get your camper.
Has far as the copper brake lines, I own a 1958 Jet toter . It also had copper lines. I am wondering if this wasn't a thing back then. Great job on the half track. Looks great. Has always I liked and shared. All my best.
Thanks! I think you're right, it looks like brake lines used to be copper, and then they changed materials. Maybe they started having failures, and that's why they stopped using that material.
Maybe you can attach the camper with a 3-point attachment like the flatbed on the Unimog? It is really built to flex.
I'm jealous. I would LOVE a halftrack!
Can't say I've changed the axle of a half-track as of late, and I'm quite sure I won't need to in the foreseeable future. However, if the need arises, I'm game.
Wonder if the guy that had the axle in the shortened frame tank was the one who originally swapped the left and right hubs? If he turned the axle around to have the nose of the diff facing between the tracks, then he should have swapped the hubs left and right at the same time. My guess is the brake shop just rebuilt 'as-is' so they stayed the wrong way around.
I think that you're right. I didn't see it until I was uploading the video, but the pinion turns the wrong way. I think he flipped the ring and pinion center section with the diff cover to get it pointing to the back. Which means there will be a follow-up video of me pulling the rear out again, flipping all the internals around, and re-installing it the other way. At least the lug nuts will go to the correct side...
Cool project. I am thinking it would make a super cool Rat Rod desert Camper Van.
I thought about putting an old C.O.E cab on my wc63! 😃 The same cab on a half-track would be even cooler!
I watch it twice…. It’s amazing what you get when you unsubscribe from all the big RUclips players… what a gem 💎 of a channel
Thank you, glad you like it!
We use nickel copper alloy with our brakes for salt resistance. Southern Ontario 😅 Cheers from Canada 🍻
When i saw what you did , I said to myself, self add a truck cab in front and you'll have a great machine. I see we think alike.
Need to use an old class C motor home, mount the coach over the rear and the cab on front, can also pick a cab of your choosing if wanted! Outta give it some flexibility!
I like that idea! Maybe some kind of flexible coupling between them...
Why should you not use copper for break lines? I’ve never heard that before so I’m curious.
Pressure too great is what I heard.
I'm not sure, its just what I've been told. Maybe I should use them to see what happens...
I heard a long time ago the fluid reacts unfavourably with copper,
I dont know how true tat is.
@@ivanolsen8596 not true
You will find this interesting reading. Everything you need to know about copper brake lines.
4lifetimelines.com/blogs/knowledge-garage/are-copper-nickel-brake-lines-safe
You gotta check out DieselCreek’s latest video when he goes to an antique equipment show. There’s a half track with a huge cable shove mounted on the bed and giant plates to reinforce the frame!
You could make a camper fit, just make it flexible. Make it inflated, like an arena, so only semi-structural. Deflate & pack (like a tent) for driving.
Well done, if anything else it one colour and protected from the elements
you have some of the coolest things.
Seems like a Screamin' Jimmy would be a good fit for that chassis.
Your new name "Werewolf of London". Your hair is perfect! How do you do it?
Best thing on RUclips
Was enamored with them when I was young and still am. It would be cool as Hell to have one parked outside LOL.
A camper is made too move, to be taken into remote places, plus a camper on that rig is never going to see 65/70mph again, or why couldn't ya just put some suspension between the frame-n-camper if your really that worried about it, your logic eludes me on this one, lol, that would make a hell of a portable hunting cabin tho,👍, thanks for sharing.
The half-track frame is surprisingly tall. I measured it up, the camper body on the bare frame would put me over 12' high, stacking a frame and suspension in between would make some of the local bridges shave the roof off.
@23:15 maybe make a spud to help line up those holes. But the self-locking thread adjustments may be too important to use a spud. YMMV.
Extremely entertaining!!where-abouts are u & what did u do for work?
Thanks! I'm in the southern part of NM, and I've got a job shop where I make all sorts of different stuff out of metal.
You need to use more spray lube or something on old bolts like the track tensioner.
Will help you alot. ;)
That looks like a giant disc brake at the end of the gearbox that thing have breaking at the shaft and not at the tracks?
A rubber track on in half an hour is exceptionally good 👍 Especially with a dead machine. * put the long body on top but have a single pivot at the front? Honestly not my idea, the euro trial trucks have a single pivot boss on top of the front bumper for the roll cage.
That's going to be heavy, having a separate frame for the body on top of the chassis frame... Cool Two Frames... Nothing is better than absolute over kill!
@@randymack2222 it’s a theme I like to use :o)
I think the double frame would work, but its going to get really tall. I did some measuring, and I think there would be issues with fitting under local bridges.
@@LowBuckGarage oh well, you are only a few yards of two inch box section away from strengthening any body to be self supporting. Or maybe go with a cab from the same era as the chassis. (Maybe 50’s)
Since you said you need a separate cab\ bed setup, look at trucks. You could probably use a dodge cab and nose, then whatever you want for the bed. Reason I said dodge is because they had a taller nose for a Cummins diesel, and that would be a good way to get a reliable powertrain swapped in, and have the power to move that beast. As for the axles not matching, check how many times the pinion turns per tire rotation, and that can give you front axle gear ratio. Not exactly sure about the rear ratio, but I'm betting it will be in the high 4's, to 5 something. Like 5.13:1 maybe 4.88:1 because these had torque, not speed. You don't want speed off-road, because of control issues. I'm hoping to see a lot more about this vehicle in the future though, because it looks to have potential, and I don't want to see it go to waste.
You'll definitely see more of this one! I do like the Dodge cab idea, especially because I have a spare one lying around, but I don't have a spare Cummins. Luckily the gear ratio is really deep, like almost 7:1 on the front end and 4:1 on the rear (the drive sprockets are much smaller than tires). I think I can get away with a gas V-8 with that kind of gearing.
Won't the hubs loosen now when they are driven? Just a thought.
2:55 I’m guessing clogged pickup lines
older trucks used copper for air brake dont know about hydraulic
I want to see that thing on the hills around our area, LOL!
I enjoy how you just pretty much dive into a project and have fun doing it. I’m anal and sweat the small things, but wish I could be more like you and enjoy what I’m doing. Great job.
Check your gear ratio may be a totally different one. And why not put the camper body and frame on air ride. Should let the chassis flex without damaging your camper
You need a 3/4" drive impact. Would save a ton of work.
I really like your channel very enteresting I am starting my own channel but haven't figured out a good editing software what do you use
I use Movavi version 14, because when I started it was the cheapest one I could find that looked good. I upgraded to a newer version a year or so ago, and found out the hard way that they no longer support the native gopro codec. I re-loaded the old version and it works fine.
G'day.
Love your vid
I was wondering about the diff ratio on a half track.
Is the front axle the same ratio as the drive axle? On a 4WD they have to be the same to stop fight between the front and rear tyres.
On a half track the tracks would would be like a gear reduction. Is this right?
Karl.
Thanks! The gear ratios are different, because the front tires are a lot bigger than the drive sprockets. The front axle has a lot more reduction, and that makes the ground speed about the same.
@@LowBuckGarage Thanks for the info.
Did you ever switch back the brake drums so that the thread is correct? I just found this channel and am binge watching it. You have some cool stuff.
Come to find out someone had flipped the ring and pinion over, so the whole axle is in backward! I've got to pull it out, spin it around, and then flip the center section and diff cover. Then the threads will be correct...
Hello, I have a rear axle of such a halftrack, is this of any value or should I bring it to scrap?
I definitely wouldn't scrap it. They aren't super valuable, but more than scrap value, especially if it still has the drive wheels with it. I paid $500 for the axle I bought, you would get less than half that at a scrap yard.
I’m enjoying the channel. How about a bit about you like do you work at the yard and how far away do you live? We don’t even know your name. I was also told copper is a no no for brake lines as it work hardens under vibration and fractures. My go to method for tightening bolts is snap it and back half a turn.😂 Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺
Thanks, glad you like it! My name is James and I'm southern New Mexico, about an hour north of Mexico. I try to avoid that bolt tightening method, but sometimes it does happen!
@@LowBuckGarage Thanks James and nice to meet you. My son is named James so your parents chose well😂😂
I’m in Canberra, Australia 🇦🇺 Cheers Stuart.
What is the rear width on the half track frame.would love to convert my 52 studebaker 2r16a to halftrack
My frame width from outside to outside is 34 inches
The new axle had reversed L and R because to drive it with a center motor he had to flip the pinion and change the drive direction??
I'm pretty sure that Tree in the Background is hanging on your Power line and wiggling it down ...😬😬😬
hi there well done john
I can understand people keeping the flat head engines for originality........but otherwise, they are just so dam heavy on fuel. What is the situation with these half tracks on bitumen roads?
Gotta love it! Thanks.
Thanks 👍
Outstanding!
Thank you!
The UJ on the drive axle for the tracks seem to turn the opposite way to what it should.
Yeah, I noticed that right as I was uploading the video. It looks like there will be a follow up video with flipping over the ring and pinion carrier...
@@LowBuckGarage I had a thought either the ring and pinion gears had been flipped or the whole axle flipped and brackets rewelded on. Possibly thats why the L and R studs are on the wrong sides. If someone had dome what you said about putting an engine in the ftrame of the tracks, then I suppose they would flip the axle to get it to do forward with the correct gears.
Now I need a half track
Rusty, Crusty, Dusty, Musty = Heaven!
3 point mount the camper like the overlander rigs
needs a flat face cab since most of the original body is gone
I was told copper is better cause it doesn’t rust and they last forever but what do I know 🤷♂️
These videos are great, but I've watched about 6 vids so far and I still know virtually nothing about this man, like is that where he lives? What does he do for a living, etc. I still haven't caught what state he lives in. But it's amusing to watch.
Never ever say "how Hard can it be" when it comes to Auto Maintenance, the Automotive God will show you how Hard can it be.
That might have been an historical smashed up piece of pipe you cut out of there...
Never complain about changing your tire again.
Every single car in Europe has copper brakelines for obvious reasons, no rust.
Putting on something else would be consider a big mistake.
What needs a replacement is that flip phone lmfao