The trad climbing basics - tying in, clove hitches, Italian hitches and tying off the belay device.
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 9 июн 2024
- Here's a few little things that we need to do and need to do well.
We cover tying in properly, tying and teaching clove hitches with a fool proof method, Italian hitches and tying off a belay device and Italian hitch.
Check it out and see what you think!
Please do fire away with any questions...
We are an EpicTV affiliate, for 10% off your order click the link below:
shop.epictv.com?code=a8f2a4 (Discount code: JBMOUNTAIN10 )
/ jbmountainskills
/ jbmountainskills
www.jbmountainskills.co.uk
Kaleidoscope by | e s c p | escp-music.bandcamp.com
Music promoted by www.free-stock-music.com
Attribution 4.0 International (CC BY 4.0)
creativecommons.org/licenses/... 
Спорт
Probably the nicest 8 and tie off I have ever seen.....
Very clear instructions and rather eye-opening to someone like me who began climbing in the 70s...'Back in the day' we just carried a sling (for wrapping around flakes or for use as thread belays) or would just use the rope itself to wrap around a flake or tie into a hex then tie back into the harness waistband using a Fig of 8 on the bight with stopper. Or sometimes just clip a sling into the back of the Whillans harness using a cow-tail loop. Generally we only used one 'bomb-proof' belay anchor...this seemed sufficient and saved time...though not sure my belay on Cemetery Gates (the rope wrapped around a tiny protuberance, with me crouching as low as possible to stop it sliding off) was 'rock solid' (but it held when my second fell off and started swinging) ;-)
Great to see a basic way to teach the hitches, thank you
It's called Halbmastwurf in German and that's why it's an HMS carabiner: suitable for a Halb Mastwurf Sicherung (safety).
Thanks for the refresher. Neat clove hitch trick. Be good for the kids!
Pleasure!
Thanks, I've always been terrified of dropping my belay plate. Hopefully now I will remember the Italian hitch if it happens.
My pleasure :)
I know the Italian Hitch as the Munter hitch.
Great tutorial JB - especially on the easy way to tie the 2 hitches. Not seen that method before. Easy to remember as I get back into climbing. Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
Great video again 😀😀
Cheers!
Fantastic video, informative and clear. Subbed.
Cheers!
Excellent videos Jez! They helped with my recent trip to Bosigran in Cornwall! Thank you so much for sharing your skills.
That's great to hear, hope you had fun, I flipping love Bosigran!
This clove/Italian hitch method is AMAZING
Glad you like it!
I dont mean to be so offtopic but does any of you know a way to get back into an Instagram account??
I was stupid lost my password. I love any help you can offer me
@Moses Douglas instablaster :)
Nice vid I like how you do the clove hitch with crossing your hands a very easy way to do it.
It really does seem to be the nicest way to teach it.
Morning Jez, another really clear and helpful vid...... could you do ones on guide plate and hauling?
Cheers... have a good day.... stay safe.
Hauling coming tomorrow!
I will do some guide plate stuff at some point...
The way you tie that clove hitch is amazing, new to climbing I struggled for some reason to tie it with your method first time every time thank you. Adding this to favourites I know it will be handy in the future!
Glad it helped! It's a nice way of doing them :)
Thank you
I keep imagining a cliff face beneath your feet..somehow just there.. in your room 😂 more seriously, is it ok to use a quick one anchor belay like this.. i.e.. you don't need to tie the other end of the dead rope - coming from your anchored clove hitch - into your harness?
Another cool video. One question though..why do you attach the belay plate through the rope loop rather than the dedicated belay loop on the harness itself? Thanks
Cheers!
Two reasons...
1. When you're belaying a second up a pitch and they weight the rope, its a bit more comfortable on you as the weight goes on to the anchors a little more directly.
2. It makes things a touch easier when escaping the system and problem solving.
JB Mountain Skills Ahh ok that all makes sense. I’ve not done any multipitch climbing yet. I hope to do some at some point though 😊
That clove hitch method looks great, but honestly I think it's ultimately better for climbers to understand how a clove hitch is formed -- what types of loops, what direction they go, how they overlap to avoid making a mistake. For example if you are building a belay anchor and for some reason you need to do the hitch one handed on the biner, if you don't know how a clove hitch is actually formed you can easily make the mistake of creating a munter hitch or a girth hitch.
I've taught pretty much all the methods over the years, this one works best for me.
I make this mistake all the time when using one hand, drives me bananas. its pretty obvious though so quickly corrected.
Do you tie off your Italian same way all the time. Reason for asking is depending on how you tie it there’s four possible positions the rope your going to hold on to can come out the Italian. Back of crab left or right and front of crab left or right.
HI JB. Ive got a quick question. Ive just been renewing my slings etc. I noticed that the extenders for quick draws make it clear you cant use the extenders as slings for making belays etc. Even though they're rated the same Kn, and some of the slings are skinnier than the extenders themselves? I suppose you could use a sling as an extender if needed, but why not the other way around.
Confused Manchester?
When you’re tying off a belay device or munter with the slippery hitch, why not just tie it off with an overhand? Less work setting it up or taking it down, and arguably more secure. I’ve only ever seen it (in the states) that way.
It’s not releasable under load so could cause you issues.
A slippery hitch followed by a half hitch or two is bullet proof, only takes a second or two longer and releases under load easily.
That said I will sometimes use a simple over hand for a changeover on a ledge etc. Depends on the situation.
Is there an easy answer to why many people say it is not recommended to tie in with a bowline knot when trad climbing? I use it a lot for sport, and I have been told that when you use it in trad at the anchor, it doesn't respond as well when loaded in three directions, although I've never had issues with that.
I think the only real reason why is that for the bowlinline not There is a small chance of it loosening it self. Especially on long multipitches
why should I put the rope through the top loop first?
Why do you clip the belay device into the rope not your belay loop?
ruclips.net/video/rpiPEsyKJ08/видео.html
Noah Jones
With due respect. Perhaps it’s variable in trainings and expertise, but I think we can all agree that clipping into a rope loop over the belay loops is not what the product manufacturers recommend, and with a belay plate of choice it is not ideal for multi pitch/alpine style any how, although perhaps the rope loop connected to the belay loop as well may assist with not dropping the belay device makes sense, however. It’s much more ideal to belay off an anchor for a follow due to the fall forces, escape and comfort. I respect all of your videos and demonstrations but I would like to see the “convenience” of belaying off a harness from above comparably to the “safety of one off an anchor and what’s truly the standard.. I have only belayed off my harness from above in extreme timely, or low grade manners and even then, whenever possible it is much safer belaying off the anchor, for escape, for you partner’s comfort, and because it’s definitely a standard and effort worth teaching.
I have no hard feelings watching these videos but just thought we should all be clear where climbing is going, and where it’s been.
Cheers.
Thanks for your comment Noah. I have done a video on what you're saying.
All methods have their pros and cons, and are appropriate in the right circumstance.
I don't agree it's anywhere near as clear cut as you make out I'm afraid.