Amazing piece of workshop equipment, remember how much work it was to cut with a torch and dress the cuts by eye? Plasma cutters and inc have revolutionize fabricating. Will smoke you a kipper, Spanners! Good vid Keith
There should be a button for 'I REALLY like this'. I thought you were working on an actual JOB, laughed out loud when I realised you were playing. And nice Red Dwarf reference. Excellent !
Keith I am not a machinist but an Electro Mechanical back ground I have watched every video you have made and like all of them. I am retied so when I can at night watch as many as I can I have even watched them over again Thank you. I have you and Big Al on Face Book enjoy watching you both. Mike
Sweet, do you need a 4" inline duct fan? I've got one that's just laying around I'd be happy to box up and ship you if you think you'd use it. This is the type I'm talking about...New 4" Inch CFM Inline Exhaust Duct Fan Vent Blower
Reminds me of the time I turned a small shop vac into a very exciting flame thrower. I was so sure that the wood stove ash was cold. Nope, that dust fueled vac shot a four foot flame out, fortunately at the ceiling so I was able to fling the thing out into the snowy front yard.
mr fenner i would enjoy seeing a restoration on the brake of the big lathe, who knows if it will be possible! keep un with your good contents, it's always a pleasure to watch a prime order craftsman at work
Keith, you need to make yourself a tank like the bucket that is used for sanding drywall. The incoming enters the water to remove the dust (in your case the hot metal) the outgoing goes to the vac. For your incoming you could use either aluminum hose from dryer flex hose, or the mylar based hose, both of which would not burn through that easily. They would duct to the water, and the smoke would go to the vac after being cooled by the water , particles would wind up at the bottom of the water bucket and be emptied whenever.
Good video, loved the shots of the inside while cutting, you can watch the aluminum sheet deform. You could try checking an automotive supplier for heat resistant hose for the vacuum, they have plain rubber and heat resistant hoses to put on tailpipes to get the exhaust out of the shop while the engine is running, they come in all different diameters. I want to offer an idea I've used welding pipes and tubing with a rotator, instead of clamping the ground directly to the pipe I wrap bare braided cable around twice, let the ends hang down and clamp the ground to the ends, it keeps good contact without disturbing the rotation. Just some ideas.
keith thanks for mentioning that stove draft. my brother live on the front range colorado - loveland. he put a wood stove in his 20' x 28' workshop(detached garage)...well they thought it was a drinking problem him passing out couple times working out there after work; he forgot the make - up air supply and up there mile high air aint cheap...i knew right away when his wifey called whut up "chief's out cold"... awesome demo the hand held, etc. thanks. saw one fella uses refridgerator door magnet strips as cut guide over auto bodies, odd shapes. and one final note autocad - cut auger blade helix > getter done
I've used the MIG spray on anti spatter with some success at preventing the mess created inside stainless pipe when cutting with plasma... it doesn't stop it all, but is sure does help.
Hey keith, I sell industrial hoses for a living and the cheapest option u got that will last you a lifetime (if the boozo is not to critical) is buying a metal hose for sucking ashes. love what u do, keep it up! =)
Keith, don't bother with shopvac -- create the draft with your air compressor: something like a venturi type propane burner. Tube within a tube, outer pipe attached where you had your vacuum hose. short inner pipe hooked up to an air quick connect, blowing away and out from your torch. That'll be plenty, and you can make it out of whatever metal tubing seems convenient.
i was thinking of the rotating pipe needing a ground.. got any braided copper battery cable laying around.. drape that over with a weight to hold it snug to the pipe OD might give you a slip and slide ground on the pipe OD..
Make a metal trough the length of the table + couple feet. slope it down a little and put a drain on one end. pump water on the high side so that the dross is carried away and recirculate the water. Use silicon wipers made from 2 inch wide strips pop riveted to the lip of the trough. Think of something like a chicken feeding trough with flaps. Mats can be put over sections not needed. Put an adapter for a shop vac hose on either end with an adapter plate on the other end of the hose to put on the main plasma cam table. Cover the main table as normal so it draws through the adapter plate for the trough and hold the whole lashup on adjustable stands, like a tripod or sawhorse. Anyway, that's my two cents.
Keith, When you said muscle washer all I could initially think of was that would be some sort of very odd item of medical equipment!! LOL After some thought I figured it out. Eric
If you run the hose through the water it will help cool the air inside. You may be able to get a metal section for the plasma cam that runs through the water and just have a connection for the plastic once the air is cool. You can also build a simple inline chip/waste can with a metal garbage can and that would help solve the hot air problem.
Considering your winters up there, I am a bit surprised you don't have a filter system for the plasma cam. I know commercial filter cartridges are pretty pricey, but you can easily separate the larger particles a number of ways, followed by a furnace filter, then the fume filter. I bet you would get several years or more from a single cartridge.
You could make a water bucket suction heat trap before the hose, and use aluminium and stainless hose (the kind they use over ovens) before it. The water bucket is just a normal bucket with a sealable top, in it there's two holes. One with a pipe that goes all the way to the bottom and stops a cm from it, and another that just connects to the vacuum with a flange. Works for cooling hot exhaust, water based vacuum machines, and may other applications.
I was thinking especially for the bigger pipe that once of those fans with the metal bendy ducts (Not the foil type used for AC systems as that stuff is useless but the one that is like concertinaed Aluminium) that they use for venting confined spaces would work well to keep the fumes down and would also be able to handle the heat from the smaller pipe.
Awesome, great for notching pipes for pipe fabrication at a reasonable price,i am a fabricator and do it old school.would so do a quick and accurate job with this.
I wondered if you installed a simple weighted butterfly valve arrangement (such as is used as a back draft baffle on a heater chimney) mounted on an inverse cone (large enough to fit a range of pipe diameters) to allow some air to enter the pipe from the opposite end of the pipe you are sucking from. So that the valve is pretty wide open when you start work initially and progressively closes as work progresses and your hole your cutting gets bigger - a sort of venturi effect. At the other end a length of flexible metal tubing to a cyclone mounted on a small collection vessel vented to the outside of the building.
I wonder if instead of pulling that hot air into the shop vac you could still use the shop vac on one to blow the waste into something like a metal cyclone on the opposite end.
Great video. About the hose problem, could you make a sheet metal venturi so the inner tube would get the hot gasses but the outer funnel would pull in shop air? that may cool the air enough to still use the plastic hose, and maintain usability.
Keith try a hose they use in auto repair shops for muffler exhaust Connect to a dust collector that uses an external bag but just add additional hose to vent outside Collectors like the Delta and knock offs have a metal impeller I suppose a 6" squirrel cage blower would work too
Wow! WoW! and WOW!!! What a surprise. Amazing!! I was smiling through the entire process. Who but Keith could make this entertaining and fun. Question about the pipe cutting attachment roller. Is there a need for an index marker along the length of the pipe (or perhaps an edge)? As the belt moves the pipe, I wonder if it can slip a bit and thereby lose its longitudinal reference. Maybe the belt tension is sufficient and maybe the tolerances are not of great concern... but what if they are?
You can index by locating a pipe location several ways, using the drawing layout & torch to part location, just like sliding a sheet on the table top, when flat cutting. ;{)------
Nice hand cutting on that pipe Keith. The 4th axis on the plasma cam looks like it works well, should be good to do fish mouths too. I'm sure you've got the draft problem solved already but I was thinking if you got one of those HVAC flat plate to hose transitions you could use dryer duct or something like that and put the flat plate down on the bed and seal around it and use your draft for the table.
It would seem to me when you were talking about the electrical connection affecting how turning the pipe could affect the connection when clamped, you would need a copper/brass wheel to provide a continuous connection no matter how the pipe turned.
Get a flexible dryer hose and connect it to a dedicated blower fan. I'm also surprised the pipe cutting attachment doesn't have a quick release screw adjustment for the rollers.
Maybe change the elbow at the top of your suction to a TEE with a damper control, then you could attach a flex pipe and movable hood, and/or flex pipe held near the work. hmm, what about those welding duct positional arm things Would just having a restricted cap on the end instead of the bag help with bringing in a bit of cold air while still allowing enough suction ? Otherwise you may need metal flex pipe.
hi Keith a see others saying about alaminum duct . I would say go with staneless steel duct work u know it's safer for sparks and flames . Please keep safe
I keep a braided copper grounding strap with my welding/cutting stuff for grounding pipes. Wrap it around the pipe, clamp the ends together with the ground clamp and let it hang down. Rotating the pipe shouldn't be an issue anymore.
I'd recommend getting some flexible metal pipe, they have flexible tubing for chimney flues, its like a heavier duty metal dryer vent hose (which might also work?), connect that at one end to a shop vac, or might be better to put a valve into the draft suction line for the table to add the pipe draft hose into that system, then on the other end, you could use the aluminum sheeting to make a funnel that goes from the pipe diameter to the hose diameter, maybe with a little extra so it'll slip as the pipe rotates.
Another way of getting the suction: you could block off all of the table except for under the pipe, as you'd do for cutting things flat on the table, but have one of the cover panels on the table have the hole for the metal hose, having most of the table covered should cause the hose to have a good bit of flow through it that way too.
The shop vac hose could probably handle it if you didn't have the bag over the other end. Pulling all the air past the heated edges made the air plenty hot. The plastic got set with the heat and the vacuum collapsed it. If more air came in through the end of the pipe the cool room air and the hot plasma heated air would have mixed and I'll bet the hose could deal with that.
keith I would like to know cost of the new switch so I can install it on my machine if that is possible. I believe you would have my address when I registered on your site. I got engraver with machine. also still in the box lol. sure hope we can work something out. love the video.
I betcha the plastic hose would have worked fine if you left the other end of the pipe open. Lots of cooling air mixed in then. Put a little water in the shop vac can too just in case! ;-)
Cheaper might be throw away aluminum dryer vent hose at the big box stores. Used to be available anyway, it was three feet long as bought but pulling it to length there was something like ten feet of it available for use. Might be enough cooling happening in that length to be alright then for the standard hose set up. A small hole in the bag would also help with cooling.
So I watched this yesterday and it occurred to me that if you were to add LED lighting in the pipe ends, not seen from the front, you could make some pretty outstanding signs. No?
Maybe one of these aluminum expandable hoses that are used for layndry dryers could be used. They can heatsink away also more heat before it hits the fan.
That's what I was thinking, the corrugated aluminum hose should hold up to hot air and slag flying through it. Just pipe that into a water-trap, then the normal vacuum hose (or table ventilation fan) could come from that to provide the negative pressure.
just a thought,, maybe check with commercial gutter guys,, and get commercial round downspout parts and make a connection to the PVC that would work? and or find out where any close auto shops get there exhaust ducts that they route auto exhaust out the door with,, may be pricy but simple and proven just my random thoughts
Nice cut Keith What gas do u use on stainless ? I cut iT with n2 and my 100 amp thermal dynamics can use watermist for protection shield Works great on stainless and aluminum leaves a better edge then lasercutting Your edge was very Nice too so i dont think u use just compressed air Keep up the good work and greetings from the netherlands
HI Keith, I was wondering how to keep all the slag from bonding to the inside of the pipe. Great solution!! Did you try and keep it out of the small pipe? Or was there not enough to worry about? Take Care, Reid
Excellent video... Maybe the rubber hose could have been saved by placing in the aluminum pipe a big bunch of steel wool (and thus obstructing partially the pipe). The steel would have been heated by the hot flue making this way a colder air at the entrance of the rubber hose... and a small vent could have been added at the junction of rubber and aluminum, allowing a mix of cold air in the hot flue....Nothing expensive....
great video keith, i've noticed you wearing glasses/goggles or your welding mask when using the plasma cam , is it dangerous to look at like stick welding or do you just want to have a good view of the action :)
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Amazing piece of workshop equipment, remember how much work it was to cut with a torch and dress the cuts by eye? Plasma cutters and inc have revolutionize fabricating.
Will smoke you a kipper, Spanners! Good vid Keith
Keith, you are now an official member of "The Too Much Fun Club"! lol Well done. Love "Kippers".
There should be a button for 'I REALLY like this'. I thought you were working on an actual JOB, laughed out loud when I realised you were playing. And nice Red Dwarf reference. Excellent !
Very compelling demonstration...., Mr. Fenner!
Keith I am not a machinist but an Electro Mechanical back ground I have watched every video you have made and like all of them. I am retied so when I can at night watch as many as I can I have even watched them over again Thank you. I have you and Big Al on Face Book enjoy watching you both. Mike
That 3d pipe cutting was awesome! Poor little shop vac hose can't handle the heat.
aluminum dryer vent hose may handle it if not directly in the line of fire like the flashing was...
The new better expandable dryer vent hose works great, already tried it and had sucess. ;{)------
Sweet, do you need a 4" inline duct fan? I've got one that's just laying around I'd be happy to box up and ship you if you think you'd use it. This is the type I'm talking about...New 4" Inch CFM Inline Exhaust Duct Fan Vent Blower
sure I can put it to use! ;{)-------
I'll email you shortly to get your address and send it out :)
Great video Keith always interesting.
Reminds me of the time I turned a small shop vac into a very exciting flame thrower. I was so sure that the wood stove ash was cold. Nope, that dust fueled vac shot a four foot flame out, fortunately at the ceiling so I was able to fling the thing out into the snowy front yard.
I like seeing the things on the wall by the plasmacam.
Adds a "whole new dimension" to your plasma cutter! Almost bought one of those some years back but pulled the trigger on a 4x8 Torchmate instead.
mr fenner i would enjoy seeing a restoration on the brake of the big lathe, who knows if it will be possible! keep un with your good contents, it's always a pleasure to watch a prime order craftsman at work
Keith, thanks for entertaining me. Your videos are great! Keep up the good work :)
You need an intercooler on the end of your pipe xD Really cool thing, glad to finally see it!
That is a very amazing set up. Beats the hech out of hand shears etc. etc. etc.
Hi Keith,
Already made a hose quite the same as you just did....... lol
Made me chuckle..
Cheers, Pierrre
Keith, you need to make yourself a tank like the bucket that is used for sanding drywall. The incoming enters the water to remove the dust (in your case the hot metal) the outgoing goes to the vac. For your incoming you could use either aluminum hose from dryer flex hose, or the mylar based hose, both of which would not burn through that easily. They would duct to the water, and the smoke would go to the vac after being cooled by the water , particles would wind up at the bottom of the water bucket and be emptied whenever.
Good video, loved the shots of the inside while cutting, you can watch the aluminum sheet deform. You could try checking an automotive supplier for heat resistant hose for the vacuum, they have plain rubber and heat resistant hoses to put on tailpipes to get the exhaust out of the shop while the engine is running, they come in all different diameters. I want to offer an idea I've used welding pipes and tubing with a rotator, instead of clamping the ground directly to the pipe I wrap bare braided cable around twice, let the ends hang down and clamp the ground to the ends, it keeps good contact without disturbing the rotation. Just some ideas.
Very good Keith you do walk the talk.
keith thanks for mentioning that stove draft. my brother live on the front range colorado - loveland. he put a wood stove in his 20' x 28' workshop(detached garage)...well they thought it was a drinking problem him passing out couple times working out there after work; he forgot the make - up air supply and up there mile high air aint cheap...i knew right away when his wifey called whut up "chief's out cold"... awesome demo the hand held, etc. thanks. saw one fella uses refridgerator door magnet strips as cut guide over auto bodies, odd shapes. and one final note autocad - cut auger blade helix > getter done
I've used the MIG spray on anti spatter with some success at preventing the mess created inside stainless pipe when cutting with plasma... it doesn't stop it all, but is sure does help.
That looked cool when the pipe rotated around and "Getter Done" was lit up from the inside.
That's a cool attachment.
Great fabrication at work and Red Dwarf quotes to go with it! This is just too much to take!!
Hey keith, I sell industrial hoses for a living and the cheapest option u got that will last you a lifetime (if the boozo is not to critical) is buying a metal hose for sucking ashes. love what u do, keep it up! =)
www.ebay.com/itm/Bad-Ash-M-41-Vacuum-Attachment-For-Fireplaces-Fire-pits-Bar-B-Que-and-Smokers-/351587665888
Awesome video keith, i want to come up with a pipe cutting attachment for my plasma table.
Pretty neat stuff!
Keith, don't bother with shopvac -- create the draft with your air compressor: something like a venturi type propane burner. Tube within a tube, outer pipe attached where you had your vacuum hose. short inner pipe hooked up to an air quick connect, blowing away and out from your torch. That'll be plenty, and you can make it out of whatever metal tubing seems convenient.
Those would make nice lights. I'd line them with opaque plastic and install a small florescent light.
i was thinking of the rotating pipe needing a ground.. got any braided copper battery cable laying around.. drape that over with a weight to hold it snug to the pipe OD might give you a slip and slide ground on the pipe OD..
Cool stuff Keith, great video as always,
See you this afternoon
can't wait see you guys soon! ;{)------
Make a metal trough the length of the table + couple feet. slope it down a little and put a drain on one end. pump water on the high side so that the dross is carried away and recirculate the water. Use silicon wipers made from 2 inch wide strips pop riveted to the lip of the trough. Think of something like a chicken feeding trough with flaps. Mats can be put over sections not needed. Put an adapter for a shop vac hose on either end with an adapter plate on the other end of the hose to put on the main plasma cam table. Cover the main table as normal so it draws through the adapter plate for the trough and hold the whole lashup on adjustable stands, like a tripod or sawhorse.
Anyway, that's my two cents.
Keith, When you said muscle washer all I could initially think of was that would be some sort of very odd item of medical equipment!! LOL After some thought I figured it out.
Eric
If you run the hose through the water it will help cool the air inside. You may be able to get a metal section for the plasma cam that runs through the water and just have a connection for the plastic once the air is cool. You can also build a simple inline chip/waste can with a metal garbage can and that would help solve the hot air problem.
Considering your winters up there, I am a bit surprised you don't have a filter system for the plasma cam. I know commercial filter cartridges are pretty pricey, but you can easily separate the larger particles a number of ways, followed by a furnace filter, then the fume filter. I bet you would get several years or more from a single cartridge.
Keith, Look for a hose that the wood stove chimney folks use for relining a brick chimney. They are SS and should take the heat better.
Regards!
Eric
That looks amazing
I would put an led-ramp in that "getter done pipe", amazing night light outside the shop🖒
You could make a water bucket suction heat trap before the hose, and use aluminium and stainless hose (the kind they use over ovens) before it. The water bucket is just a normal bucket with a sealable top, in it there's two holes. One with a pipe that goes all the way to the bottom and stops a cm from it, and another that just connects to the vacuum with a flange. Works for cooling hot exhaust, water based vacuum machines, and may other applications.
I was thinking especially for the bigger pipe that once of those fans with the metal bendy ducts (Not the foil type used for AC systems as that stuff is useless but the one that is like concertinaed Aluminium) that they use for venting confined spaces would work well to keep the fumes down and would also be able to handle the heat from the smaller pipe.
Awesome, great for notching pipes for pipe fabrication at a reasonable price,i am a fabricator and do it old school.would so do a quick and accurate job with this.
I wondered if you installed a simple weighted butterfly valve arrangement (such as is used as a back draft baffle on a heater chimney) mounted on an inverse cone (large enough to fit a range of pipe diameters) to allow some air to enter the pipe from the opposite end of the pipe you are sucking from. So that the valve is pretty wide open when you start work initially and progressively closes as work progresses and your hole your cutting gets bigger - a sort of venturi effect.
At the other end a length of flexible metal tubing to a cyclone mounted on a small collection vessel vented to the outside of the building.
Interesting, thanks.
7:15 Keith, What is the big aluminum looking frame above your double doors in the background? It looks like a huge protractor or something..
yep it is one I made for setting up pulpits! ;{)-------
Flexible exhaust tubing from the vacume with stepped vac "bells" to make up the diffrence may work.
That last screen shot reminded me of Slim Pickens in Dr. Strangelove riding his H bomb down to its target.
I wonder if instead of pulling that hot air into the shop vac you could still use the shop vac on one to blow the waste into something like a metal cyclone on the opposite end.
Great video. About the hose problem, could you make a sheet metal venturi so the inner tube would get the hot gasses but the outer funnel would pull in shop air? that may cool the air enough to still use the plastic hose, and maintain usability.
Great video!
Keith try a hose they use in auto repair shops for muffler exhaust Connect to a dust collector that uses an external bag but just add additional hose to vent outside Collectors like the Delta and knock offs have a metal impeller I suppose a 6" squirrel cage blower would work too
Nice Red Dwarf reference.
Wow! WoW! and WOW!!! What a surprise. Amazing!! I was smiling through the entire process. Who but Keith could make this entertaining and fun.
Question about the pipe cutting attachment roller. Is there a need for an index marker along the length of the pipe (or perhaps an edge)? As the belt moves the pipe, I wonder if it can slip a bit and thereby lose its longitudinal reference. Maybe the belt tension is sufficient and maybe the tolerances are not of great concern... but what if they are?
You can index by locating a pipe location several ways, using the drawing layout & torch to part location, just like sliding a sheet on the table top, when flat cutting. ;{)------
you could fill the pipe with water, not to the top though, to catch the slag
I think they make aluminum bellows tube in 3" or 4" for things like clothes dryer vents. Maybe it would hold up better and be cost effective.
Nice hand cutting on that pipe Keith. The 4th axis on the plasma cam looks like it works well, should be good to do fish mouths too. I'm sure you've got the draft problem solved already but I was thinking if you got one of those HVAC flat plate to hose transitions you could use dryer duct or something like that and put the flat plate down on the bed and seal around it and use your draft for the table.
Exactly ;{)---------
wonder if anti spatter spray would be awesome on the id I think it would work nicely to keep things clean
It would seem to me when you were talking about the electrical connection affecting how turning the pipe could affect the connection when clamped, you would need a copper/brass wheel to provide a continuous connection no matter how the pipe turned.
or just use a section of stranded copper wire like Jody over on WeldingTipsandTricks ;)
So Keith...
When are we going to see you make a "Getter Done" on the K&T?
Get a flexible dryer hose and connect it to a dedicated blower fan. I'm also surprised the pipe cutting attachment doesn't have a quick release screw adjustment for the rollers.
Hello. Very high quality cut. Tell me how you prepare compressed air? Thank you.
nice video, i think you should open a little hole at the other end of the pipe so the vacuum suck some air and cool the heat coming out of the plasma
Maybe change the elbow at the top of your suction to a TEE with a damper control, then you could attach a flex pipe and movable hood, and/or flex pipe held near the work.
hmm, what about those welding duct positional arm things
Would just having a restricted cap on the end instead of the bag help with bringing in a bit of cold air while still allowing enough suction ?
Otherwise you may need metal flex pipe.
Try tumble drier hose, Keith. The metalised type :)
hi Keith a see others saying about alaminum duct . I would say go with staneless steel duct work u know it's safer for sparks and flames . Please keep safe
That will let you do sail boat masts with all the holes and then you could press them oval , just a thought , A WHOLE NEW work ability.
I keep a braided copper grounding strap with my welding/cutting stuff for grounding pipes. Wrap it around the pipe, clamp the ends together with the ground clamp and let it hang down. Rotating the pipe shouldn't be an issue anymore.
Yeah couldn't find mine, I have used that many times with old weld positioners. ;{)------
Keith, why not use your welding blankets to line the inside of the pipe, would that not keep the discoloration down to nothing?
I'd recommend getting some flexible metal pipe, they have flexible tubing for chimney flues, its like a heavier duty metal dryer vent hose (which might also work?), connect that at one end to a shop vac, or might be better to put a valve into the draft suction line for the table to add the pipe draft hose into that system, then on the other end, you could use the aluminum sheeting to make a funnel that goes from the pipe diameter to the hose diameter, maybe with a little extra so it'll slip as the pipe rotates.
Another way of getting the suction: you could block off all of the table except for under the pipe, as you'd do for cutting things flat on the table, but have one of the cover panels on the table have the hole for the metal hose, having most of the table covered should cause the hose to have a good bit of flow through it that way too.
That is what we did to shoot the WALK the TALK cutout. LOL ;{)-------
here in Washington its legal to smoke the kippers, but the salmon have "hot" particals.
Glad to see you got you pipe laid. 👍
"Smoke me a kipper, I'll be back for breakfast!" Arnold "Ace" Rimmer played by Chris Barrie on Red Dwarf. ;)
The pipe attachment is nice but it seems a bit of pain to setup. Thanks.
The shop vac hose could probably handle it if you didn't have the bag over the other end. Pulling all the air past the heated edges made the air plenty hot. The plastic got set with the heat and the vacuum collapsed it. If more air came in through the end of the pipe the cool room air and the hot plasma heated air would have mixed and I'll bet the hose could deal with that.
keith I would like to know cost of the new switch so I can install it on my machine if that is possible. I believe you would have my address when I registered on your site. I got engraver with machine. also still in the box lol. sure hope we can work something out. love the video.
You have a pop a way on your PlasmaCAM carriage? ;{)-------
love to get one of your new switchs, are they available
So, ya do much rope jumpin in the shop Keith ?! Double Dutch or single strand?
I betcha the plastic hose would have worked fine if you left the other end of the pipe open. Lots of cooling air mixed in then. Put a little water in the shop vac can too just in case! ;-)
keith cool video.
Hey Keith what about adapting flexible dryer vent hose for the draft connection?
Did that on the second cut with Walk the Talk cut out and fed the table, worked great. ;{)------
I was thinking the same -- one of the metal ones.
Keith try automotive repair shop exhaust hose those can take serious heat and remain very flexible
What about stuffing a large handful of metallic swarf into the pipe to take up some of the heat....?
May I suggest Walker Flexible exhaust pipe? Available at O Rileys.
Cheaper might be throw away aluminum dryer vent hose at the big box stores. Used to be available anyway, it was three feet long as bought but pulling it to length there was something like ten feet of it available for use. Might be enough cooling happening in that length to be alright then for the standard hose set up. A small hole in the bag would also help with cooling.
So I watched this yesterday and it occurred to me that if you were to add LED lighting in the pipe ends, not seen from the front, you could make some pretty outstanding signs. No?
Maybe one of these aluminum expandable hoses that are used for layndry dryers could be used. They can heatsink away also more heat before it hits the fan.
Might I suggest automotive flex pipe with a handmade coupler
EXCELLENT ! keith
Throw a little anti-matter in that plasma stream and you would have a warp engine!
You need to set up a water trap on the suction pipe like a hookah pipe to take the heat out.
Maybe some drier vent hose would hold up. Getter done.
That's what I was thinking, the corrugated aluminum hose should hold up to hot air and slag flying through it. Just pipe that into a water-trap, then the normal vacuum hose (or table ventilation fan) could come from that to provide the negative pressure.
just a thought,, maybe check with commercial gutter guys,, and get commercial round downspout parts and make a connection to the PVC that would work? and or find out where any close auto shops get there exhaust ducts that they route auto exhaust out the door with,, may be pricy but simple and proven just my random thoughts
Nice cut Keith
What gas do u use on stainless ?
I cut iT with n2 and my 100 amp thermal dynamics can use watermist for protection shield
Works great on stainless and aluminum leaves a better edge then lasercutting
Your edge was very Nice too so i dont think u use just compressed air
Keep up the good work and greetings from the netherlands
Clean dry compressed air is all I use. I haven't tried any gases yet. ;{)------
Like the Scene from Aliens.
Man that is great. I would have been happy if it cut the dang thing off...haha
HI Keith,
I was wondering how to keep all the slag from bonding to the inside of the pipe. Great solution!! Did you try and keep it out of the small pipe? Or was there not enough to worry about?
Take Care,
Reid
Aluminum doesn't seem to stick like S/S does. ;{)------
AHH Red Dwarf ....need i say more
Huh, a Red Dwarf fan! Did you know Kryten has a RUclips show about electric cars? It's called "Fully Charged".
Smeg head.
LOL!!
tell me, does the pipe shift when the belt rotates?
No, because the rollers are matched and true 90 to axis
Can you do something like a bong style? Have it run thru water (vac that is)
81 views already? Its 5:30 am! LOL
in your timezone! You are not alone in Muricca -.-
Excellent video... Maybe the rubber hose could have been saved by placing in the aluminum pipe a big bunch of steel wool (and thus obstructing partially the pipe). The steel would have been heated by the hot flue making this way a colder air at the entrance of the rubber hose...
and a small vent could have been added at the junction of rubber and aluminum, allowing a mix of cold air in the hot flue....Nothing expensive....
great video keith, i've noticed you wearing glasses/goggles or your welding mask when using the plasma cam , is it dangerous to look at like stick welding or do you just want to have a good view of the action :)
Give you the birds eye view, with the glasses. ;{)-------
It's an electric arc, so the UV hazard is there, just like arc welding.
How could this comment be labeled 5 hours ago at 6:10am when the video was posted at app. 530am?
I think he posts the videos on Facebook first
thanks keith :)
nice job