Thrustmaster T-LCM Pedals Review
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- Buy Thrustmaster - Amazon UK - amzn.to/3e1Xjvd
Amazon US - amzn.to/3nxk0dM
My 2021 review of the Thrustmaster T-LCM Load Cell pedals, worth a punt or go Fanatec?
eBay - www.ebay.co.uk...
𝐃𝐈𝐒𝐂𝐎𝐔𝐍𝐓 𝐂𝐎𝐃𝐄𝐒 + 𝐀𝐅𝐅𝐈𝐋𝐈𝐀𝐓𝐄 𝐋𝐈𝐍𝐊𝐒
𝐅𝐚𝐧𝐚𝐭𝐞𝐜
www.fanatec.co...
𝐆𝐓 𝐎𝐦𝐞𝐠𝐚
Discount Code KG5
www.gtomega.co...
𝐒𝐢𝐦 𝐋𝐚𝐛𝐬
simlab.prf.hn/...
𝐒𝐢𝐦 𝐇𝐨𝐮𝐧𝐝
simhound.com?sca_ref=889677.vccWmOR5Mo
𝐒𝐢𝐦 𝐑𝐚𝐜𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐒𝐭𝐮𝐝𝐢𝐨
www.simracings...
𝐏𝐢𝐦𝐚𝐱 - 𝐂𝐨𝐝𝐞 𝐊𝐆𝟐𝟎
pimax.com/?ref...
𝐕𝐑 𝐖𝐚𝐯𝐞 𝐏𝐫𝐞𝐬𝐜𝐫𝐢𝐩𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧 𝐌𝐚𝐠𝐧𝐞𝐭𝐢𝐜 𝐋𝐞𝐧𝐬𝐞𝐬
Use code "Karl" at checkout! www.vr-wave.st...
𝐑𝐚𝐜𝐞 @ 𝐇𝐨𝐦𝐞 - 𝗟𝗼𝘄 𝗥𝗶𝗱𝗲𝗿, 𝗣𝗧 𝗔𝗰𝘁𝘂𝗮𝘁𝗼𝗿, 𝗠𝗲𝗰𝗮, 𝗬𝗮𝘄, 𝗣𝗶𝗺𝗮𝘅.
www.raceathome...
𝐏𝐚𝐭𝐫𝐞𝐨𝐧 𝐒𝐮𝐩𝐩𝐨𝐫𝐭! / karlgosling
𝐎𝐧𝐞-𝐨𝐟𝐟 𝐝𝐨𝐧𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧𝐬! www.paypal.com...
![Thrustmaster T-LCM Pedals [REVIEW] How good are these affordable Load Cell Pedals?](/img/1.gif)
Karl, long time subscriber, you have single handedly helped me pick out multiple products, my playseat challenge, Sim Racing Studios Shake Kit and Wind Kit. But i feel like you were to critical on these pedals. I have had mine since launch, and while yes, the mostly plastic construction isn't great and may not speak much for longevity purposes. However, everywhere your feet touch is metal and feels great. The ease of adjusting the load cell strength and range of soft-stiff is also quite impressive, plus being able to use the washers to limit travel is great as well. The software side adds even more options. While they are obviously not the absolute best, i think focusing on the build quality over the different options was a mistake. I love mine, have yet to have any issues. Just my two cents. Keep up the fantastic work, your videos keep getting better!
Agree, not sure the point of repeatedly comparing to fanatec with potentiometers 25% more expensive was. Nothing is better at this price.
Also Karl didn't read the manual or he would know you need a firmware upgrade for older wheelbases to use these.
Because they are nearest alternative LC pedals around this price point.
Don't jump to conclusions, updating the firmware did not allow these to work through my wheel base, was one of the first things I did.
@@KarlGosling all I was saying is that I think that the time could have been used for more than taking about the build quality. Such as the ease of adjustment, not to mention the more expensive csl pedals use potentiometers in the throttle and clutch as opposed to the hall effect sensors in the TLCM's . More accurate, more reliable. That's all, again keep up the good work
How do you go about securing the T-LCM to the Playseat Challenge?
@@walterswdf2 I use the thick zip ties. One wrapped around the foor plate and one wrapped around the back to keep it secure to the playseat base. I've done it that way for about a year and have no issues.
That cat bed is amazing
Ive been using the pedals for a good number of months now, I have zero issues with them. Great pedals, and stand up to some full on rally style driving in DR2.0. I often do the full pedal dance with my feet. They might be plasic construction on the base, but honestly; they feel as well constructed as my metal T3PA Pro pedals (the invertable set).
With regards to the issue with not been able to plug them into the wheel base on PC, you need to make sure the wheels firmware is updated so it recognises the pedals. The updated firmware MUST be installed on the servo base for the T-LCM pedals to be detected. There is a support/setup guide for using the T-LCM pedals directly with a TM servo base on the Thrustmaster website.
There are now 2 modes for pedals. One for all the older set of pedals, and one specific to the T-LCM pedals. It should set into the right mode when connecting the T-LCM pedals to the base. If it doesnt, you can manually engage it by pressing the down shift paddle and the mode button on the servo base at the same time. The mode light should flash 10 times if you have put the serve base into T-LCM mode.
I personally use mine in USB mode however, as they have a higher resolution at 16bit in USB mode.
In RJ12 mode connected to the wheel base directly, the pedals have the same 12bit resolution as all the other sets of Thrustmaster pedals. So there is a benefit to using them USB standalone, where possible.
It doesn't work mate, my firmware is updated but only works on consoles form what the TM website says... unless this has changed in the last week?!
@@KarlGosling I dont know what is going on at your end, but I have owned the T-LCM pedals since August 2020; and they have always worked via the included RJ12 cable when connected to my T300 RS-GT servo base on PC. When I first got the pedals I tested this, as the resolution is lower in RJ12 mode when compared to USB mode. And I wanted to see if that made any difference while driving in a sim/game.
However, I did go back and double check things; and I just uploaded a 43 second clip to my youtube channel showing the T-LCM pedals working in the Thrustmaster T300 wheel software, as well as in Assetto Corsa on PC. I have a webcam attacthed, recording is shoddy due to the quickness I made it. But I do show the pedals connected via the RJ12 cable also. I wont post the link to the video, but I would ask you go and check it out just so you can see I am not pulling your chain. I never say anything tech related on the internet unless I can back it up.
You can see in Assetto Corsa that the pedals are listed under "Thrustmaster T300RS Racing wheel". As you are probably aware, the T-LCM pedals in USB standalone mode state "sim pedals" inside of Windows and inside of games. Including Assetto Corsa.
Whatever is going on at your end isnt how the pedals function normally. So either you only downloaded the most recent drivers and didnt go through the servo base firmware update. Or something is wrong with you T-LCM pedal set or your Thrustmaster Servo base.
@@KarlGosling to be clear, you have updated both the firmware on your wheelbase amd you've updated the firmware on your pedals right?
Bought these just a few weeks back, they are AMAZING ! Especially as an upgrade from the average G29 pedals.
Was it plug and play?
16:32 Quick side note for any prospective T-LCM buyers: you can now use your pedals via RJ12 on PC, though you still have to plug them up _solely_ through USB to use the T-LCM calibration utility. They have to go straight to your PC too, so you can't plug them in via a splitter or Windows won't recognize them.
I bought these not because of ecosystem (I use USB even now that I have TS-PC wheel), but because of magnetic sensors - light years ahead of CSL Elite mechanical potentiometers.
Plus, Sim racing Garage didn't point out the best of these pedals - break pedal is an all metal system if you use metal screws to attach to your metal rig.
I don't have a rig, so these are also way better than CSL Elite. The all metal thing is overrated, our real car also use plastic/nylon bushes between metal parts.
In engineering we don't kill flies with a canon ball.
Seems like everyone is praising Fanatec for their all-metal approach und dissing Thrustmaster for using plastic, but since I *never* had any issues with my former pre-owned T3PAs or my current T-LCMs (since 06/20), a fellow simracer had to change his CSL's pots twice due to peaks.
Also, the LC position in the CSL's brake pedal arm is kinda weird, making its effect highly dependent on where you place your foot on the pedal plate.
@@andreasotto1977 Didn't knew about LC problem in Fanatec pedals. Glad I opted Thrustmaster.
yeah these are great ,just bought them and the brake pedal feels amazing
I have one for a month and it's great. I will watch your review anyway :) I chose this over the CSL elite because of the hall sensors in the pedals. And here it's cheaper, I bought it at ~200 EUR with shipping in a local shop. Also I think the load cell is at a better position comparing to the CSL.
Love the vids Karl. Here to say that I have my tlcm's and the t3pa shifter plugged into the wheel base all at once and it works good.
Same here, I use the T-LCM plugged into my TS-PC, and it works fine. I only have to use the direct USB connection when I want to calibrate the pedals.
Wheelbases bought before these came out need a firmware upgrade as per the manual. Bit sloppy not to check such things if you are going to do a critical review.
This is weird as for me it doesn't work, firmware updated and I'm pretty sure when I checked the TM website it says it doesn't work on pc?! Unless this has changed in the last few weeks or mine are faulty?!
@@KarlGosling Right here in the manual, lists all the compatible wheelbases: www.manualslib.com/manual/1893806/Thrustmaster-T-Lcm-Pedals.html?page=12#manual
@@4879daniel Thats great... but it doesn't work for whatever reason?!
love the hanging cat bed
Your review is SPOT-ON! 👍👍👍
I have the T-LCM and wish I'd went with the Fanatec ClubSport Pedals V3, despite the higher cost.
Ended up super-modifying the T-LCM, and they're now INVERTED (involves soldering an internal cable extension & swapping the clutch and accelerator assemblies around), the original clutch spring is now the accelerator spring; the clutch spring has been replaced with a stronger one; the ballast is removed; the clutch pedal face has been made smaller (cut down in overall size); the brake pedal has a 1/2" spacer/stand-off to make it closer; the clutch pedal has 2 x 1/2" spacers/stand-offs to make them closer; the bolts holding the pedal plates in place have been replaced with stainless steel ones. ====> they work fine, and I will use them for who-knows-how-long, BUT it was a lot of messing around, when I could have just gone with a better pedal set to begin with! 🤔
Thanks for your honest review. Combining that with this comments section gives me a good picture. And yes, the other two pedals are Hall-effect. Hence the "M" for magnetic, in the product name.
The sand in the base is just a counter weight. Thrustmaster's are designed for as wide a customer base (cheaply made) as possible. A lot of people buying this probably don't even have a rig and just plop them on the floor.
Karl mate you have some sort of supernatural powers.. your reviews always come out at the perfect time when I'm looking to upgrade haha. Loving the content, keep it up
They always come out after I've bought something :)
The reason they plug directly into a PC is to utilise the maximum 16 bit fidelity possible with the pedals. When used plugged in via the wheel on console 12 bits is only possible.
12 bit is plenty IME, even 10 bit.
Nice review. I bought these about 6 months ago. I have the T300 wheel and was using the base pedals. The TLC-M are miles ahead of those base plastic ones. My braking is significantly more consistent and they feel considerably more real. The weight is nice and I've notice the whole thing is more stable than the stock t300 pedals. As stated, it comes with a couple different springs to adjust brake weight/feel. I'm used to the stock setting so haven't played with it, but it's there. That in mind, the springs give a good feel of how hard you're pressing on the brake. It would be nice to have force feedback pedals but at the time I bought these, those were way out of the budget.
@karlgosling I'm sorry to report that you were absolutely correct about the construction on these pedals.
I'm deep into the TM ecosystem and mainly a GT7 player, so these were really only choice for a load cell if I didn't want to completely replace all my stuff. They've been AMAZING for two years, but today the plastic hinge broke and... there's nothing I can do to fix it. I've recommended these, I've even bought a set as a gift. I though, "TM know what they're doing, I'll be fine..."
You were right all along. Thanks for all you do!
Sorry to hear that mate, 2 years is out of warranty too I'm guessing so you're going to have to cough up again :(
The sensors used in the TM T-LCM are high quality. 100kg load cell and hall effects sensors for the throttle and clutch (not potentiometers). Having said that they are let down by a somewhat flexible base and spring/elastomer choice. Had TM anchored the pedals (minimal finishing due to price but face plates are fine) to a metal base plate and charged $50 more they would be unbeatable even at a higher price point imho.
Love your videos and was looking at these pedals so perfect timing!
The TM's have hall effect on the throttle and clutch? The base Fanatecs with LC brake I think have potentiometers instead so that's a significant aspect I feel.
Particularly if one have a G29 with all those potentiometers problems... 😁
@@jopereirapt indeed. I've had potentiometer issues with my T3PAs also. Hall effect is the way to go.
Great review Karl, just received mine today
I'm noob in sim racing. Bought those around year ago to pair them with TM TMX and working both with USB and rj12 on PC. Recently I've found out that AC have some mess up default configuration for brake linearility and after changing those to 1.0 now I really like those pedals. After 300 hours of driving just in AC (occasionally I playing dirt rally and ACC also) I didnt have issues. Thanks for sharing your opinion, now I know that I can stay with this set and concentrate on replacing wheel.
I have these and have given them a good hammering attached to my gt omega titan rig, they hold up well. I haven't used any other load cells yet so can't compare them, but they made a big difference to me over the t3pa pro pedals. Also with regard to the plastic, modern plastics can be extremely tough and hard wearing, so far I've seen no signs of fatigue in mine at all. If you're on pot pedals and wondering whether to pull the trigger, you won't regret it and will see an improvement in a couple of hours of use.
I've been watching a few of your reviews and I gotta say I like them and your work. Keep it up mate.😅
Much appreciated!
I've had these for a while. The looks are not the best, like you say. But if i'm honest, the only time i look at my pedals is when i wipe them from dust (once in 2 weeks maybe). Funcionality is key, i think that's where these shine. I'd give these a 9/10 in funcionality. The plastic is bit of a consern in longevity. If the plastic is good guality, it shouldn't be an issue. But we'll have to wait and see.
I must admit as well when it comes to the springs, telling the difference between the black and the grey is difficult for me to. Wonder why they didn't paint one blue or something to make it stand out more like with the white an red springs. Also with my limited tactility even doing a manual squeeze test of the springs, I can't tell them apart. I think I'm running the Grey Spring and the White spring in my setup. I'd have actually preferred a second white spring in the set to make the pedal even softer for myself and allow me to activate it and ride it in game without getting leg fatigue overtime and a long game session.
Great videos. Only found your channel a few days back and already been through loads of them. Really interesting, detailed and straight to the point! :-)
Thanks mate! :)
Thanks for all your video's! I'm getting into raceing Sim. I have ps5 and buying Gran turismo 7! I have the Thrustmaster T300 and Omega Apex Racing Wheel Stand and Apex Rear seat with the Omega Xl RS seat and Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals on the way. I've never used a Racing setup before other then in the Arcades 20 plus years ago! I can't wait to put everything together and play some Gran Turismo 7 when it comes out March 4th!
Mate thats going to be a great fun setup! :)
Couldn't for the life of me figure out how to swap out the springs. I feel stupid. Great video!
love the behind pedal cam testing them out, would love to see some racing with a pedal cam from that view!
I have my T-LCM pedals for almost a year now (the first few months used with a PS4, then with PC) and I'm still quite satisfied. Bought them because I have other equipment from Thrustmaster (T-300RS wheel, TH8A shifter, TWCS throttle controller, Airbus Sidestick).
The only thing which is a little bit annoying: since a few weeks the spring of the throttle pedal is making some snapping/clicking noise when pressing or releasing it. The clutch/throttle springs look (and sound ;-)) pretty cheap and are made of quite thin material. Maybe I should open the base and try to use some silicon grease to get rid of this annoying noise (or even to replace the springs with better ones).
That's correct, mine did the same, twisted the spring. Done!
I have two rigs, one fanatec club sport with csl elite load cell, and the other is a ts xw with tlcm. Imo, the gas pedal on tlcm feel much better than the csl elite. Brakes fell better on csl elite, clutch is a clutch. Once bolted down on a good rig, built quality didn't really matter to me. Great video though as always....
Good to have your input mate thanks! :)
End of 2023 and I'm just looking at the offers now, and with the Amazon discount, I can have the T-LCM pedals for around £150. The CSL Elite costs €299.95 plus shipping and tax, totaling closer to £400, and the ClubSport costs €399.95 plus tax and shipping, closer to £500 😮. I can't find them available anywhere from UK retailers, so yeah, TLCMs now cost 3x less! 😅
I still wouldn't buy them, feel like toy pedals compared to the others.
Love the vids, wanted to say though, the pedals work when connected directly to my TS-XW base. You maybe need to update the firmware of your base
Not on PC as I said mate, firmware updated, it says this on the TM website.
@@KarlGosling you mean they dont work if the base is connected to a console?
Im just saying that on PC it works
@@Bolso266 it definitely works on pc and console, Karl is either doing something wrong or something is faulty.
I have had them for 6 month and would recommend them as well!
Just wanted to say I clicked the VR Wave link in your description and there was no discount applied, not sure if it's a glitch. I got all the way to the end and ended up googling a code for 5% off haha. Hopefully they're good!!
Thanks mate I'll look into it!
Great review Karl - thanks for taking the time to do this 👍🏻
No problem 👍
Great review! But one thing - i watched Sim Racing Garage review you mentioned, and in "Look inside" section it looks like peddals are not all attached to plastic.The brake pedal is actually attached to the metal plate, witch is attached to plastic base, so brake pivots are rotating in metal, not plastic. Is anyone see that to? It would be a good thing for long therm use:)
Haven't seen that video, but that's how they are constructed on my T3PA pedals aswell, so I'd be really surprised if they'd change that
The pedals definitely do work through the base on PC. You do need to bind them again in game, after connecting them to the base and vice versa.
But I would advise to keep them connected to your PC if possible, as the base limits the pedals to 12bit. And this way, you can adjust the pedals in game using the software that comes with them.
Also, the brake pedal isn't pivoting in plastic. There are metal plates build in where it pivots. Barry missed them as well.
Sadly not for me, the PC only sees the wheel base for some odd reason (yes firmware is up to date and the base confirms the pedals are plugged in).
Well one out of three is better than none! lol
@@KarlGosling, that is a bummer. Did you re-assign the pedals in the games controls menu, after connecting them to the base?
These are good for the money!
I bought the T-LCM pedals and ultimately returned them. Sometimes they would become completely nonresponsive and I would have to unplug and replug the USB cable to wake them up. This became quite annoying. I also was surprised at the poor finishing they had on the pedal arms. Otherwise, they would be a good option if they could be made reliable and with a proper metal base to beef them up a bit.
So in the end, I just went back to my trusy G25 pedals that have been upgraded with the AXC-Sim Truebrake. Down the road, I may spring for the Fanatec CS v3 pedals once I come to terms with their cost.
I think mechanically there is a difference between ‘play’ and ‘flex’. Play is spatial where flex is material based.
Yes mate spot on!
Good review as always Karl. But how did your cat get into that bed swing?
Haha, I just asked that same question in a comment I left. 😁👍
I just bought these to replace my G29 as we moved, I wanted to buy Fanatec but I could get any, so the Thrustmaster was the only available upgrade. It is a nice upgrade from the G29, just one day using it and I really like the breaks.
5 minutes in and my decision is made I'll go for the fanatec csl pedals thanks Karl. Also thanks for the discount code for gt omega as just ordered the titan rig, happy days 😃🏎
Csl pedals use potenitomers for gas and clutch. Definetley would not go for the csl lcs. Their hardware is objectively inferior and they cost more. All metal is nice but that's where the benefits end.
Karl ! love your videos.... but..... loving that hanging cat bed too ! Where did you get it and can your cat get in it or do you have to "assist" :-)
A friend of mine makes them!
facebook.com/DesignTwine-101926541885551/
Yeah I put her in there, it's only hanging there because I hadn't yet put a hook in the ceiling in the bedroom which is where it now is and she can hop in and out on her own :)
Great as always and congrats on hitting 20k
Thanks mate! :)
17:00 you can actually! Once you have calibrated the pedals in the software, you can unplug the additional cable. Its just for the calibration
Watch my follow up video and check the TM site mate.
@@KarlGosling ah wait, maybe it could be because i dont use a shifter atm.
Thanx mate, that helps.
I did a compare of these vs the V3 on my channel they are a good set of pedals
Thank you
Going to try the red springs now I’ve got my new rig as playseat felt like it would snap in half lol
I think I'll just end up getting the clubsport v3s since they have all metal construction, I'm pretty rough with my pedals so I want them to be durable, as well as just being able to have better cable management because I plan on getting a csl elite later on, I also like the simulated biting point for the clutch and well certainly help with standing starts
Good thinking; I have the T-LCM and although I have no complaints, function-wise; I also think I should have gone with the Fanatec ClubSport Pedals V3. Too late now...for me.
@@Polymer its still possible to get the V3s later on when the T-LCMs wear out or something, I've only had the G29 and the pedals so far, and I'm replacing pedals with the V3s because mine are kinda wearing out, I've also wanted to get a bit more serious with sim racing, a reason I plan on getting the csl later on as well
I'm reading more and more complaints about stuck input and/or lag. Unfortunately I'm experiencing this now too after 6 months of usage and no solution has been found. When they work they're great budget loadcell pedals but I'm worried about these problems.
hey Karl, what kind of cat do you have if you don't mind me asking, I think she is absolutely beautiful and I would love to own one myself, cheers!
She's a female Abyssinian mate, lovely little cat :)
A few of you are saying yours work on PC through your wheel base which is really interesting as mine do not, the firmware is up to date (was the first thing I did) so either mine are faulty or something else weird is going on with my setup?!
It should work if you upgrade the base's firmware, if it's not something is wrong. However I'm using it through USB because the resolution is better.
I linked the instructions from the manual in another comment
@@-fatal- how does that extra resolution actually work though, could anyone tell the difference?
@@4879daniel On RJ-12 it's 12 bit (if I remember correctly), so the pedal's axis has 2^12 (4096) value. While on USB it's 16-bit, which is 2^16 value (65535). It's more precise on USB.
@@-fatal- Great but how's that in actual real world effect - could anyone notice a difference, do games even pick up those sorts of differences?
Hey Karl great video I was wondering if you could possibly make a video on how to get a thrustmaster wheel base working with say fanatec v3 pedals or csl pedals, im coming from console to pc & this is my first pc so am a useless noob but I've seen videos of people using different brands ? Not sure how exactly it works? You have a good way of explaining things simply lol 😆
You literally just plug each into a separate USB port and then in game go to the controls options and choose them, it's that simple mate! :)
@@KarlGosling oh really why don't people just say that then 🙄 cheers Karl much appreciated 👍
I love mine!
As a non daily user of sim racing. Im extremely casual, Would you recomend these pedals?
There are nicer options for the same money available IMO, shop around mate unless you have to have TM for compatibility with other products.
16:04 my CSR Elite pedals are potentiometer accelerator and clutch. The pedal set is 10+ years old. The accelerator still works perfect. I never use the clutch pedal.
You have to update the firmware then you can connect the pedals direct to your wheel. It also mention in the manual
Yes I know.
does it fit with/on a T300 without any issues? or is there any adapter needed?
Hey Karl when I got these pedals initially, I was happy but soon realised that the springs weren’t the feeling I was after. Then found the Apex V2R mods for the TLCM and the feel absolutely transformed! My current configuration from bottom (load cell side) to top in order is: Apex Supersoft mod, thrustmaster washer, thrustmaster Red spring, Apex preload mod. The feeling is fantastic. Smooth and progressive. Give it a shot, you’ll love it.
i really hated my TLCM pedals, i had a lot of issues with squeaking and creaking and took them apart 3 or 4 times inside 8 months or so, when looking inside i found that the brake pedal has 2 rubber ring like spacers that keep it secured into the brake pedal mounting, one of them had come off causing a lot of play and plastic on plastic contact so there were plastic shavings everywhere inside and the brake pedal use had worn away some of the plastic mounting. all of the pedals had a bit too much lateral movement in them in fact, there is a rubber bump stop beneath each pedal so when you press them fully its a soft stop rather than metal on plastic, one of those came off inside so my clutch would make a heavy metal on plastic contact when pressed fully. im quite heavy footed on the brake and when i go full brake i really push hard before easing off to trail brake in and i found that the whole plastic base of the pedals would flex a little... there is a theme here, plastic.
i hated them so much i put a sale ad up saying how i didn't like them and thought they were built shit and my price was £90 and they went inside 10 mins of putting it up, the buyer was really pretty pleased with them even after using them, kinda confused me but who knows what he had before them.
overall i mean, they are good value and first impressions are decent for the money but after beating on them for months things just... happen. im sure some people wont have had the same issues as me ofcourse but i certainly chose to spend more after my experience.
edit: i was using the apex V2R brake pedal mod, it smooths out the braking and stiffens it up a lot... i think actually this contributed to a lot of problems, it made me press the brake harder and thus put more pressure on the whole unit which could have caused more stress to the base than originally designed for. so there is that.
had mine now 8mths m8 and good as new, use them 5 times a week for over 2 hrs a time, tbh if you mod something maybe you should not be so harsh as mine aint modded and do just fine, great pedals especially LC brake 😍
I use these pedals with my t300 base on both PS5 and PC. I can confirm you can use the RJ cable plugged in the wheelbase and use it both on pc and PS via the single usb :)
Yeah for some people it seems to work, for others it doesn't.
@@KarlGosling weird. Could be the batch of the pedals. Well anyway, thanks for the awesome reviews :)
I've been using G29 pedals for about 14 months and i've had to clean the potentiometers 3(!) times already. Cleaning them isn't hard indeed. Opening them and especially closing them without damaging the wires is the biggest drawback. I'm looking for a new set of pedals as my clutch is no longer responsive. I was leaning towards this thrustmaster set but the CSL's were a good recommendation giving the similar price range.
man you're lucky my clutch died in 4 months!!
Also I would worry about the all plastic construction and much as I would with how Manny plastic parts are on my Next Level Racing GT lite. The wheeldeck alone is held in place by plastic. I'm sure that would give way just as easy as these pedals.
Anyway I will eventually be buying the CSL DD Pro so my current wheel and pedals are a stopgap for about a year.
Mine do not have the rough filed faces you mention, they are all polished and smooth. Maybe a different batch.
Not the faces, the arms.
@@KarlGosling yes the rear face of the arms on mine are smooth
From what I could work out on console via wheel base the pedals don't support the full bit rate as they would over USB directly
@Karl Gosling Have you ever tried to hook the Fanatec load cell together with the Thrustmaster TS-XW on Xbox Series X? I race on PC and XsX and cannot see anyone with that combo. NOTE: The trusty vibe of your videos, I would buy anything you approve lol
I don't have any modern consoles mate so can't try.
Thank you, means a lot! :)
@@KarlGosling thank you for taking the hassle to answer me. I just purchased the T-LCMs to avoid any possible troubles. ATM I am using the G920's pedals with the TS-XW via Thrustmaster's adapter. I would say there is a reduction in "feel" from when I used them natively, might be my imagination thought but I lock brakes way more often. As lucky as I am, Thrustmaster either reduces the price in the coming months or releases a better version... :)
I recommend mod for brake, really changed after modding!
I dont personally have them but I had the t3pa pedals before I returned them when my t300 rs gt broke and I am pretty sure the t3pa pedals also have sand or something like the inside them and it helps a lot atleast when the are on the floor because when using the brake mod you have to use quite a bit of force. Then when I returned them I had to use my old logitech driving force gt with its stock pedals that dont have any weight in them. I was used to use the force needed to press the pedals on the t3pa's and when I used the driving force gt's pedals the front part didn't have enough weight and it came of the ground like a motor biker doing a wheelie.
Hi Karl I'm looking for a bit of advice.
the pedal set I have with my g29 is fkd but I just got my hands on tclm pedals how can I use them together on ps4/5
I believe there is something called drive hub that may help you but I do not have a console so have never used it mate.
My TSXW with the sparco handbrake and H pattern and the pedals all run on my PC through the wheel base (perhaps the Thrustmaster HUB helps with this?)
10:59 this happens with my current FANATEC CSR Elite pedals set which I have with 10+ years now. When I take my foot off the pedal it registers a tiny bit of braking and I have to put the back of my foot on the top of the pedal and pull it towards me because it's gotten loose now. No matter how much I adjust the sensitivity knob on the load cell it does it anyway. Even when I adjust the sensitivity of the basherboard cpx box I'm using to connect the pedals to my T300 it happens.
Do I've ordered this pedal set. It's too distracting to try to concentrate on the brake pedal and pull it towards me while trying to race at the same time.
Also you're tend to rest my left foot on the brake pedal and I'm learning to not to do that with my current pedal set because it's over sensitive now.
Hey! I just bought this pedal and I immediately changed the spring to the red spring. And i noticed the plastic spacer (red marked spacer) the one that has rubber on it has come off, is it ok if its used without the rubber?
Btw I use all of the ring washer..
Holla Karl...on what braking force you recomended to drive
Thats personal choice mate.
Most importantly, what do you think about the feel of the brake pedal?
Yeah as I said it feels great, no problems with it at all :)
Easily my favourite review youtuber if there’s a review on this channel for what I’m looking for best believe I’m watching it on this channel also new to sim racing thinking about getting the t300 rs gt is it worth it. Also I was looking at the csl website for future but I couldn’t seem to find the csl elite anywhere could someone send me a link or are they no longer continued?
T300 is a good wheel, CSL Elite is discontinued as there's a CSL DD coming to market very soon.
@@KarlGosling ok ty
I know for a fact I lose time braking early with the standard pedals , looking at finally upgrading mine (mine have an Automatic car brake pedal (sparco one) fitted across the clutch and brake arms on originals (disconnect clutch wire and have same springs behind each one ) it feels alot better than original but others still out brake me
Can somebody help me please!! 🙏🏼
I’ve just upgraded from my G29 to a T-GT with T-LCM pedals on my PS4.
On Dirt, this setup is awesome and I’m so happy I made the move to a new Ecosystem, however on GT sport I’m only getting half throttle and I have to mash the brake pedal into the floor to get it to register (I’m not sure the clutch even registers either). Similarly on Assetto Corsa, I only get about 80% clutch & throttle and I have to fully depress the brake to get about 50% force there too.
I’ve tried changing modes (10 flashing lights for T-LCM), turning it on and off, unplugging everything, even pressing all pedals on loading screen (was told this may work as a type of configuration) but nothings worked… I’m gutted. Any advice is much appreciated.
Can we get a review of that hanging cat bed?
I'm getting desperate and Thrustmaster are no help...so here goes.I just bought the TLCM pedals and TGT2 wheel base for using on PS4. TLDR: the wheel is recognised but I'm getting zip,nada,bugger-all out of the pedals.
Windows recognises them when plugged directly into my PC ,so the fault can't lie there, but when rj12'd into the wheel-base they aren't showing up in AC or PC2 on PS4. Anybody got any ideas?
Yup I have the same problem mate, so alas I cannot help!
@@KarlGosling Seems like a bit of a swing-and-a-miss ,having a wheel base specifically licensed to Playstation,that doesn't work on Playstation. I've gone back to my G29.Clunky but reliable and I like my pedals after I used aluminium profile to invert them and get rid of the plastic box they were in. I've also put in the Truebrake mod a while back.
I'm done with Thrustmaster. I've previously had problems with their HOTAS bricking after no time .
Not aggressive peddler, so more like a smooth criminal then?
has anybody had throttle issues with these on xbox they keep cutting in and out
Unfortunately there's so many issues with these pedals across all platforms mate, TM haven't done the best job 😕
is it possible to connect pedals via usb to ps4 and use fanatec steering wheel? i have a usb hub but i don't have a drive hub. Thank you
HELP! I recently broke my G29 pedals cable, I've asked on other videos about whether I can get a set of thrustmaster pedals and use them alongside an LG G29 Wheel base on PC & I've been getting mixed answers, Can I or will I need to buy another wheel and pedal set? Cheers
Hey bro, yes you can. :)
Also if you have any friends with even very minimal electrical/electronics experience, you could fix those g29 pedals pretty easy until you get better pedals
you can definitely do that on pc, you won't be able to on console however and I think that's what the people on forms were referring to.
Confirming what the others have already replied with, you can use these with a Logitech wheel. I used these with my G27 and now use them with my Fanatec wheel base. The pedals just use their own USB port.
@@hMint That's good news for me, Cheers.
@@gsoulracing566 Thanks for the info, I tried to fix the pedals with RJ45 connectors but my eyesight fails me so it'll mean waiting until I get a visit from my son which might be a month or more away due to his work & that feels like forever to me. :D
Can it install on the PLAYSEAT CHALLENGE perfectly?
Where is the best place to order the CSL Elite Pedals in Canada?
On the Quest 2, have you tried AirLink yet?
Not yet mate.
@@KarlGosling Hi Karl, I am looking for a Driving Simulation set up to learn how to drive. I want to use the Fanatec DD1 direct drive, using a sim rig that has an integrated monitor stand. What set-up would you recommend, if you had a lot of money to spend on this solid investment?
Is left foot braking good I thought it was a bad thing and I naturally do it I was going to teach myself out of it but is it a good thing?
In racing yes!
Hi, is T-LCM compatible with ps5 ?
Can you use these pedals on the logitech g920
The T-LCM have more resolution via USB than thru the wheel base. As for the shifter, yeah makes no sense
Can you do a tutorial to assemble this pedal on the Playseat challenge?
I use the strap and it works, it does flex the tiniest bit when braking fully
You can fix it in place with cable ties
Does it fit on Play Seat evolution (do they have wholes in the bottom that would work on the pedal sheet for the Playseat evolution)
No, you'd need to drill it.
@@KarlGosling ok. Thank you.
hi i am currently on xbox one with Logitech g920, will these pedals fit with my logitech wheel ?
No.
Can they work with the g920 itself
A couple of corrections:
1) The brake pedal are mounted and pivoting on a metal frame, not plastic as stated in your video.
2) The pedals works absolutely fine on my PC when connected through the wheel base.
3) That Fanatec use cheap glue-on strain gauges doesn't mean other load cells are cheap (e.g. look at the one in the Ricmotech DIY kit, which are the same style as the one Thrustmaster uses - that load cell alone is over €50 when purchased from Mouser.)
4) If you're on PC, you don't need to buy a USB adapter (like the €20 one you'd need with the Fanatec pedals) to use them with a non-Thrustmaster wheel base.
Also, doing a review and not even trying out some of the different preload configurations (even though it, per your own account, only takes 10 seconds to change) is just perplexing.
While these pedals are nowhere as nice as my HE Sprints are, they are, IMO, the best pedals for the buck (and they can be found a good deal cheaper than what you paid.)
Point 1 is a correction, well done :)
Point 2 is just your opinion and personal experience.
Point 3 is neither here nor there, my point is that LC's do not automatically justify a strong price, the technology is cheap.
Point 4 is incorrect, direct from the Fanatec site under the features list..
"USB connection to PC.
Direct connection to Fanatec Wheel Bases and Wheels.
Dedicated port for ClubSport Handbrake"
It perplexes me why you are perplexed? I tried all configs and settled on red/red (as I said in the video), had I of shown you footage of my feet pressing the pedal with each config would you have been able to feel it, no... so why would I show you?!
If you can find them cheaper than the £180 I paid why don't you help other people out by linking to them?
What’s the intro song?
for me these pedals are great...the brake is amazing ,feels great..for the prize they are good,its clear that fanatec ones are better but at double prize tho...even more...and dude it wors on pc,dont know what your talking about
I don't know what you're talking about either mate?! lol