Exactly what it sounded like to me. Might open the service cover hole on the bellhousing & check the flexplate & or flywheel bolts. Maybe one is loose?
Like others are saying I would start be checking the flexplate and the converter bolts. If that is good then remove the belts and even disconnect the converter bolts. That will narrow it down to internal engine. If it was a rod it will rap some on accel but really rap on decel.
put a c infront of the plug number cr45ts. That will be the same heat range and size plug, but it has a larger electrode, so they last longer. I heavier duty trucks with same engines will use the c plugs.
You'd be lucky if it's converter bolts but sounds like a spun rod bearing to me. Like people say, disconnect accessory belts & disconnect converter & slide it back from the flex plate & try again. Still knocking? 10 years ago we could get a full gasket set, oil pump, main & rod bearings, and maybe a cam & lifters from summit for about $350US. Sand the crank smooth if there's burrs, & dingle ball hone rebuild it! It definitely will make you appreciate LS motors tho!
Nice! If you have sbc thats running okayish, keep it. But if you have a rolling chassis and you're searching an engine for it -> it makes no sense to buy sbc for a core. People are asking crazy prices for parts etc. compared to LS stuff..
Choke=cold air idle. The iac will keep on high idle until the temp comes up. You have to treat the choke the same way. Most likely, you had some wires wrong, as those plugs should have fired off no problem.
Sounds like its about to throw a connecting rod thru the block lol. If you want to go cheap always can get a late 90's vortec 350 from the junkyard for $50
Our junkyard charges the same price for any engine, so theirs really no reason not to get an LS. They would want the same $250 or whatever it is even for a vortec. Works out for us though because other yards charge a premium for an LS.
Cracked flex plate.......clean off the contacts on the dimmer switch on the floor board to solve the headlight issue......fuck that gen 1.....and I'm old!!!!
Be original, don't LS swap it there's already a million LS Squarebodies out there. Maybe a 2J and piss everybody off. That rattle sounds like either converter or flexplate.
May be a broken flex plate from being stuck reverse to forward slam
Exactly what it sounded like to me. Might open the service cover hole on the bellhousing & check the flexplate & or flywheel bolts. Maybe one is loose?
I would definitely check the converter bolts and the flex plate. Both can make similar noises. Also change the oil and check for metal
That sounds like Flex plate definitely
Tried pulling the belts off the engine started up with no belts and see if the noise is gone
Bro... Flexplate or converter bolts
Does this year have a vacumm or spring loaded heat riser valve? Could that be making the rattle?
Might be torque converter bolts. Some threaded into blind holes, if bolts too long they will bottom out before getting tight.
Cool video, dang i would love if LS's we're cheaper than small blocks in here
Like others are saying I would start be checking the flexplate and the converter bolts. If that is good then remove the belts and even disconnect the converter bolts. That will narrow it down to internal engine. If it was a rod it will rap some on accel but really rap on decel.
You need to keep it choked longer because it's carbureted when it's cold
That is quite the knob on the choke cable
Cracked flexplate. No rod sounds like that. Rod noise would scale with rpm.
Chillin woth the bois bois bois.
Yea bro got it back up ! Great job
put a c infront of the plug number cr45ts. That will be the same heat range and size plug, but it has a larger electrode, so they last longer. I heavier duty trucks with same engines will use the c plugs.
Headlights try dimmer switch first
does not sound like a bad bearing at all , something else is doing that noise, looks more close to converter, flexplate ect.
Disconnect fan belts. Disconnect torque converter bolts. If noise is still there The baffles in the muffler are rattling.
You'd be lucky if it's converter bolts but sounds like a spun rod bearing to me. Like people say, disconnect accessory belts & disconnect converter & slide it back from the flex plate & try again. Still knocking? 10 years ago we could get a full gasket set, oil pump, main & rod bearings, and maybe a cam & lifters from summit for about $350US. Sand the crank smooth if there's burrs, & dingle ball hone rebuild it! It definitely will make you appreciate LS motors tho!
305s sick even with a cam. Putting a cam or any mods to a 305 you are wasting money and time.
Nice! If you have sbc thats running okayish, keep it. But if you have a rolling chassis and you're searching an engine for it -> it makes no sense to buy sbc for a core. People are asking crazy prices for parts etc. compared to LS stuff..
Crazy it ran wit the egr unplugged
Ahhhhhhhh SONIC STANG JUST SAYIN
Another great video 👍👍🇨🇱
check the heat rise valve if it has one.....
Check the dimmer switch If it has the old style on the floor may be why the headlights wnt come on .
Exactly, had the same issue in my 74 nova
Sounds like main bearings. Check to see if you filled the pan with gas.
Choke=cold air idle. The iac will keep on high idle until the temp comes up. You have to treat the choke the same way. Most likely, you had some wires wrong, as those plugs should have fired off no problem.
If headlight grounds check out good, i'd go kick the dimmer switch a few times
Try a shot of starter fluid.
flex plate or loose bolts to torque converter or harmonic balancer
Sounds like the d-valve in the fan belt
By the way I'm a new sub love your channel
👍
Vortec 350 from a 96 up chev.vortec to card swap intake, and electric fuel pump, fuel regulator.
sounds like a loose flex plate or lose torque converter bolts
Lots of room in the engine bay for a twin supercharged LS.
I would check to see if the water pump is loose. Or could be the timing chain and gears. They used plastic and fiber for timing gears.
Eric Nelson not chevy
Chevy did to
Eric Moll I stand corrected in my 54 years I will say I have never seen one in a Sbc new or used must have been lucky
Ive come across a few the vortec 350 305 had them
They used steel gears with nylon teeth on the cam gear.
Sounds like its about to throw a connecting rod thru the block lol. If you want to go cheap always can get a late 90's vortec 350 from the junkyard for $50
Our junkyard charges the same price for any engine, so theirs really no reason not to get an LS. They would want the same $250 or whatever it is even for a vortec. Works out for us though because other yards charge a premium for an LS.
Hello Rod’s!!!!
Or the torque converter
Totally agree, and the racket starts after the rev as it comes back down, experienced it myself eons ago.
Martin McMartin have had both happen in the very same car I’m building on my channel which I bought in 82 when it was 10 yrs old
Have had a broken crankshaft on a v6 that made that noise
Love it when words get added that don’t belong
Is there a clutch fan on it?
If it was bearing knock, would do it under load not on decel. Be constant hammer to metal
Sounds like the low rpm rattle when you shift a car into to high of a gear will going slow.
Ya sounds like converter bolts are loose.
A little choked when it's warmed up that much
Dayum u ugly
Throw some 20-50 and STP in it, it'll last forever
It almost sounds like the torque converter bolts fell out.
Almost sounds like converter bolts are loose
Sounds like a broke flex plate. I've had this to happen many times
You should be getting the sonic stand going rather than pissing round with that old piece of history m8
Cracked flex plate.......clean off the contacts on the dimmer switch on the floor board to solve the headlight issue......fuck that gen 1.....and I'm old!!!!
Sounds like you got sticky wrist pins
Put an ls in it 🤟
Sounds like the water pump is bad
sick booster delete
If you LS swap it, you gonna piss off the boomers.
Put 2003 5.7 hemi never mind a ls
sounds like death rattle
Loose or cracked flywheel, OR crankshaft failure, bearings and all. Too bad !
Be original, don't LS swap it there's already a million LS Squarebodies out there. Maybe a 2J and piss everybody off. That rattle sounds like either converter or flexplate.
Sloppy timing chain, as well as worn cam lobe.