Hope you enjoyed this video, and it helped you out a little🥰 🔧Need a new boiler? WARMZILLA can help you finance! www.warmzilla.co.uk 🔥GET your trace heating, insulation and wraps here: amzn.to/3USonQM
Also as stated in building regs you could have the condense increased to 1" 1/4. Or which ever option is listed in the manufacturers instructions that came with the boiler.
Great content im ex-forces and find the problem-solving aspect of both plumbing and sparks so interesting thanks for sharing and worked a treat for me. Thanks, mate also feel good that with sound instruction I could not only remedy but employ measures to prevent occurring in the future.
Hi James, hoping you’ll make a video on how to keep your house warm. Help us understand electric heaters and some places also have gas heating. I’m a noob and would like to learn!
Great Informative videos, just did some heat trace a couple of weeks back insulated in armaflex on a feed pipe and waste to a garage just missed out on this video.... the manufacturer recommended to foil tape plastic pipes and then to foil over trace on the waste pipe as it obviously doesn't carry water all the time. Also they recommended covering the thermostat with the lagging to give it a true temperature reading. I read the constructions for once 😆
Also, if you get alot of sunlight in the area that your condense pipe is located, you can paint your pipe black to absorb the sunlight and keep you pipe warmer than that air.
I'm studying hvac/plumming/whatever it's called in english, anyway my teacher actually recommended your channel! And I can see why this is very easy to follow, you add small details that are worth gold to think about while out working and you're just pleasant to listen to! Thank you bunches for making these videos
Can you use it on a copper feed (and plastic outlet) to a washing machine which is located in an unheated back porch? And, must you insulate if you can't create gap behind as copper pipe was installed by a plumber?
Our boiler just drains into a loose pipe which then goes outside, somewhat like some styles of washing machine drain, so if it freezes, it just slightly overflows into the garage lol. I've insulated the pipe now and added a leak sensor but I can't really fault the original builders: the garage is a bare concrete floor and everything is stored off the floor: it can take a little moisuture.
Hi James, i have installed trace heating tape over the years - on larger systems - it’s actually 10w per ft, but this is the first time that I’ve seen a small kit available - good idea - i would add a few point’s that worry’s me , #1. The thermostat you used in your video has the temperature adjustment exposed - this unit i would put in an waterproof box suitable for outside , it will sense the temperature change just the same & be safe - #2. Trace heating tape can be cut & resealed with special heat shrink sleeve from your electrical provider. Good information video. Ed,
Absolutely love this video. Never knew such a thing existed. Any idea what and where to buy an external type foam insulation? I imagine it's the black stuff that the AC engineers use? Hold tight. 👊🏼
If you don't wrap the pipe with the heat tape/trace/cable, the only thing I'd do differently is put it on the BOTTOM of the pipe... because heat rises... *especially* if you decide to not put insulation around it too.
When I had my boiler installed I told them to keep the condense pipe inside and run it to the nearby sink waste. It's hostile to your brickwork but I guess this is another reason.
I see that the pipe is running to a grid, presumably. Mine just comes out the wall, 90 degree directly down and a 50mm length of pipe. So the condensate just drips on the ground. Is this a problem? It might not look great but it's such a short vertical run there's no chance of it freezing. Any reason the condensate pipe needs to run all the way to the grid? Could this cause any problems?
@@The_Invisible_Self Thanks for the reply. After a bit of digging and investigation I see my condensate pipe is inside and terminates at the sink. The pipe outside is from the pressure relief valve.
CondensatePro - designed for this very job. Weatherproof and UV resistant, already painted at factory. Comes with bond and seal for the joints and entry through the wall, which expand and contract with cold/heat. They recommend the rubber-lined munsens that clamps to the outside of the installation - that way there's no need to cut the insulation to accommodate the wrong clips. The insulation used in this video isn't suitable for external use, it'll persish in no time. Not a single call out for a frozen condenstae during the Beast From the East (Feb 2018) when using CondensatePro - just saying.
@@plumberparts it does help! I can’t see any pipe outside but I can see that there is a plastic pipe running from the boiler in to the room behind which is the bathroom so perhaps it is merged with a waste pipe. My mum has no heating or hot water at the moment!
Cut the pipe an inch downstream from elbow. Go inside and cut and rejoin the pipe after turning it 90 degrees so that it drains vertically. No freezing can happen because the exterior pipe to too short for the water to freeze now.
@@The_Invisible_Self well that's fine for the UK, but that's not everywhere. If it penetrates a one and a half inch rim joist it's not going to freeze. The water doesn't stay in the pipe it drains by gravity and it's much higher than room temperature so it's never going to freeze in that short distance.
Ideally most manufacturers state the pipe run should be kept internal if at all possible and less the 3 metres. A condensate pump is a better option if the standard method isn't possible. If the condensate run is already in situe then lagging and a trace heater are a suitable options.
I totally agree.... the bottom of the pipe will warm first (where the condensate lies), then since heat rises, the rest of the pipe should will get protected too.
All MIs state condense passes outside in at least 1 1/4 so any pipe that's less is against MI and ultimately against regs so should be replaced. This is a plaster for a problem that shouldn't exist
Short exit outside, wide waste pipe (not 21mm), heat trace wire. Pipe insulation DELAYS freezing, does not prevent it. Install a condense pump indoors, so it fly out when pump kicks in (instead of dribble)
My condenser pipe is in the wall and is frozen. The boiler is tripping the electrics. So I have no heating or hot water. Any suggestions on how to defrost through a wall
Buy some condense external pipe covering and tie wraps from toolstation/screwfix and do it yourself for about £10-£15 depending on the length of the pipe. Simples.
Why this is not hidden inside of the house? Who the hell came up with the idea that hideous pipes running along the outside walls are a great addition to the view of the garden? In my case, I have a washing machine under the boiler, and since there is a washing machine, there is also water and a drain pipe. It could have been "connected". But no. The geniuses of evil decided to let me have an ugly pipe in the middle of the wall outside. Even if they wanted to run such a pipe, they could have let it out 10 cm above the external sidewalk, not 150 cm. Nobody cares about aesthetics. It's like Fiat Multipla. New, clean, shini, good job but ugly as hell.
Depends if your boiler is near the soil stack. There's regs to be adheared to - so sometimes going straight down doesn't cut it. Thanks for your comment though!
Hope you enjoyed this video, and it helped you out a little🥰
🔧Need a new boiler? WARMZILLA can help you finance! www.warmzilla.co.uk
🔥GET your trace heating, insulation and wraps here: amzn.to/3USonQM
Also as stated in building regs you could have the condense increased to 1" 1/4. Or which ever option is listed in the manufacturers instructions that came with the boiler.
Didn't help last week when it was -10
Good grief is it still imperial surely not?
agreed, my ppe is 32mm and never had a problem even when it got -15c.
Great content im ex-forces and find the problem-solving aspect of both plumbing and sparks so interesting thanks for sharing and worked a treat for me. Thanks, mate also feel good that with sound instruction I could not only remedy but employ measures to prevent occurring in the future.
Top work!
@@plumberparts for cold pipes with condensation inside would you use this grey insulation or aramflex you used in another video
Hi James, hoping you’ll make a video on how to keep your house warm. Help us understand electric heaters and some places also have gas heating. I’m a noob and would like to learn!
Lovely video. Thank you. If the condensate pipe is longer than 3m, what should you do? Is that when a soakaway is necessary?
Great Informative videos, just did some heat trace a couple of weeks back insulated in armaflex on a feed pipe and waste to a garage just missed out on this video.... the manufacturer recommended to foil tape plastic pipes and then to foil over trace on the waste pipe as it obviously doesn't carry water all the time. Also they recommended covering the thermostat with the lagging to give it a true temperature reading. I read the constructions for once 😆
Also, if you get alot of sunlight in the area that your condense pipe is located, you can paint your pipe black to absorb the sunlight and keep you pipe warmer than that air.
Unless it freezes at night👌
I'm studying hvac/plumming/whatever it's called in english, anyway my teacher actually recommended your channel! And I can see why this is very easy to follow, you add small details that are worth gold to think about while out working and you're just pleasant to listen to! Thank you bunches for making these videos
Say thanks to your teacher!
Very helpful and easy to understand. Thankyou .
No worries CarolAnn.
Are those screws big enough for the thermostat? i need to be sure it wont fall off
Excellent presentation straight forward and some humour added in,well done.
Can you use it on a copper feed (and plastic outlet) to a washing machine which is located in an unheated back porch? And, must you insulate if you can't create gap behind as copper pipe was installed by a plumber?
As heat rises, it makes more sense to put the wire underneath the condensate pipe.
@Manic Miner so it leaks because of condensation? And that would mess with the wire? Just tryin to understand
@plumberparts why exactly shouldn't you un-freeze the condense pipe with boiling water?
Is it the correct size for condensing pipe outside?
Why don’t you put an inline tee inside the property with a emergency valve to a container that can be used in case of freezing ?
Our boiler just drains into a loose pipe which then goes outside, somewhat like some styles of washing machine drain, so if it freezes, it just slightly overflows into the garage lol. I've insulated the pipe now and added a leak sensor but I can't really fault the original builders: the garage is a bare concrete floor and everything is stored off the floor: it can take a little moisuture.
You may need a special foil tape to go over the trace heating wire when using with plastic condensate pipe. It is very expensive stuff.
Hi James, i have installed trace heating tape over the years - on larger systems - it’s actually 10w per ft, but this is the first time that I’ve seen a small kit available - good idea - i would add a few point’s that worry’s me , #1. The thermostat you used in your video has the temperature adjustment exposed - this unit i would put in an waterproof box suitable for outside , it will sense the temperature change just the same & be safe - #2. Trace heating tape can be cut & resealed with special heat shrink sleeve from your electrical provider. Good information video. Ed,
Absolutely love this video. Never knew such a thing existed. Any idea what and where to buy an external type foam insulation? I imagine it's the black stuff that the AC engineers use? Hold tight. 👊🏼
oh mu plumber man... how do you sit with your knees like that????
😳😪😳yikes!!!!
well done, as ALWAYS! 🤗👍👍❤ YOU ARE SO HILARIOUS😅😂 thank you
should outside condense pipes not be in inch and a quarter?
Depends. What they 'should' be and what my viewers have to deal with are two different things! 😂
@@plumberparts I know over here ( Northern Ireland ) building control will insist on 32 mm plus insulation
@@plumberparts great answer ❤
If you don't wrap the pipe with the heat tape/trace/cable, the only thing I'd do differently is put it on the BOTTOM of the pipe... because heat rises... *especially* if you decide to not put insulation around it too.
Nice little tip there we go again (innuendos)😂😂😂
👍👍👍👍👍
FILTH! 😂
Saw you on Channel 5
Homes under the hammer next, you have the persona for the telly if not deffo a part in Top Gun III
Martin's jimbo's father. They often get mistaken. Jimbo's much younger 😂.
Does condensate freeze quicker than regular water?
When I had my boiler installed I told them to keep the condense pipe inside and run it to the nearby sink waste. It's hostile to your brickwork but I guess this is another reason.
I see that the pipe is running to a grid, presumably. Mine just comes out the wall, 90 degree directly down and a 50mm length of pipe. So the condensate just drips on the ground. Is this a problem? It might not look great but it's such a short vertical run there's no chance of it freezing. Any reason the condensate pipe needs to run all the way to the grid? Could this cause any problems?
@@The_Invisible_Self Thanks for the reply. After a bit of digging and investigation I see my condensate pipe is inside and terminates at the sink. The pipe outside is from the pressure relief valve.
CondensatePro - designed for this very job. Weatherproof and UV resistant, already painted at factory.
Comes with bond and seal for the joints and entry through the wall, which expand and contract with cold/heat.
They recommend the rubber-lined munsens that clamps to the outside of the installation - that way there's no need to cut the insulation to accommodate the wrong clips. The insulation used in this video isn't suitable for external use, it'll persish in no time.
Not a single call out for a frozen condenstae during the Beast From the East (Feb 2018) when using CondensatePro - just saying.
Thanks for the comment. Spot on with the insulation. The grey stuff (like I point out) isn’t suitable. Armaflex is better. 😎
It hits -35c here. We pump condensate into the drain, never let it drip outside.
I wouldn't even go to the toilet outside!
couldnt you just raise the rad water temperature setting so the boiler doesnt condense?
It'd be great if you could do a video on swapping a shower from a concealed shower to a bar mixer!
anywhere to get trace as amazon sold out
I just want to know where the pipe is in order to actually do this!!!
Usually on the wall behind your boiler. Or very rarely into the waste pipe inside the house. Hope that helps! 👍
@@plumberparts it does help! I can’t see any pipe outside but I can see that there is a plastic pipe running from the boiler in to the room behind which is the bathroom so perhaps it is merged with a waste pipe. My mum has no heating or hot water at the moment!
Why don’t British Gas home care when they got boilers with outside piping do this.
Isn't 1 in 40 for 40mm pipes? So 21.5 needs to be a lot more, maybe 1 in 20, which is what you said in the video.
depends on load and aspiration levels. Condensate from a regular boiler is less ml/Hr than 1 Greta tear Per hour
Cut the pipe an inch downstream from elbow. Go inside and cut and rejoin the pipe after turning it 90 degrees so that it drains vertically. No freezing can happen because the exterior pipe to too short for the water to freeze now.
@@The_Invisible_Self well that's fine for the UK, but that's not everywhere. If it penetrates a one and a half inch rim joist it's not going to freeze. The water doesn't stay in the pipe it drains by gravity and it's much higher than room temperature so it's never going to freeze in that short distance.
Crème de menthe. 😂😂😂 FFS.
Crème de la crème maybe?
Thankyou Rodney! 😂
Ideally most manufacturers state the pipe run should be kept internal if at all possible and less the 3 metres. A condensate pump is a better option if the standard method isn't possible. If the condensate run is already in situe then lagging and a trace heater are a suitable options.
Re route the pipe work internally during frosty weather to discharge into a plastic tub then empty it daily into the external drain.
Maybe attach the heater to the underside of the pipe where the ice forms? Just a thought..
I totally agree.... the bottom of the pipe will warm first (where the condensate lies), then since heat rises, the rest of the pipe should will get protected too.
Good idea. It’s only on the top in this video because, as I mentioned, the instruction on bends. Maybe you missed me saying it.
It's enough to turn my hydrangeas blue and my cabbages bright red!
Yher ner.
Thank goodness I haven't got a condensing boiler!
Why not just cut the pipe to about 50/100mm turn it 90° clockwise, and/or during very cold spells let the interior pipe run into a bucket.
All MIs state condense passes outside in at least 1 1/4 so any pipe that's less is against MI and ultimately against regs so should be replaced. This is a plaster for a problem that shouldn't exist
I use armour flex lagging
My condensate pipe is plumbed into my internal waste pipe... Best thing to do
Short exit outside, wide waste pipe (not 21mm), heat trace wire.
Pipe insulation DELAYS freezing, does not prevent it.
Install a condense pump indoors, so it fly out when pump kicks in (instead of dribble)
James as you know that pipe lagging isn't suitable for outdoor appcations
It's not going to hold tight for long😁
The grey stuff falls to bits!
@@plumberparts armaflex all the way
@@K-carbon too right mate.
Any other class 0 lagging works good too.
Recipe for disaster.... Plumber + 'an electrical element' 🤯
🤣
What if my condenser pipe is in the wall
Hi Sarah, you shouldn't have to worry about insulating it. 👍👍
My condenser pipe is in the wall and is frozen. The boiler is tripping the electrics. So I have no heating or hot water. Any suggestions on how to defrost through a wall
@@sarahbowman4899 this is a crazy problem if you don’t mind me saying! I guess you can’t even see the condense?
@@plumberparts no goes straight in to the wall travels a small distance to the plumbing under the sink and then links up there to go to drain
£30 on amazon? thats almost doubled since this was posted.
Buy some condense external pipe covering and tie wraps from toolstation/screwfix and do it yourself for about £10-£15 depending on the length of the pipe. Simples.
get hem in eastenders wiwwlll yaaahhh
PHILLLLL MITCHELLLLLLL
just bye pass the condensate when it's cold
That is what I have been doing for years
Why this is not hidden inside of the house?
Who the hell came up with the idea that hideous pipes running along the outside walls are a great addition to the view of the garden?
In my case, I have a washing machine under the boiler, and since there is a washing machine, there is also water and a drain pipe. It could have been "connected". But no. The geniuses of evil decided to let me have an ugly pipe in the middle of the wall outside. Even if they wanted to run such a pipe, they could have let it out 10 cm above the external sidewalk, not 150 cm. Nobody cares about aesthetics. It's like Fiat Multipla. New, clean, shini, good job but ugly as hell.
Fit a fatter pipe. 😁
So basically this is one big advert
Why not do away with your long pipe and just send the pipe vertical downwards to the floor as it comes out of the wall. That's what mine does.
Depends if your boiler is near the soil stack. There's regs to be adheared to - so sometimes going straight down doesn't cut it. Thanks for your comment though!
No dont do that. Condensate is acidic. This will weaken your foundations.