Yes! Finally! I have one of these locomotives and have been searching for a video detailing how to remove the body shell to install a decoder. You're the first one to actually show it being done.
I went with this decoder in an athearn SD38 and a old athearn SD50. The dcc and sound work fine in both. An affordable price for the upgrades, thank you.
Another great video to show how easy it is to upgrade a plug and play "DCC Ready" RTR. Me personally I would install a Soundtraxx Economi PNP board. Use the same speaker and power saver. Maybe worth upgrading the lights also to LED. Can't wait to see, or should say hear, the updated sound file you find to upload to it.
Yes, there are several other options as far as decoders go. However I wanted to make this as easy as possible by using the RTR options of the Athearn model. Plus, this loco spends most of the time sitting on a display shelf.
Another great video, Larry. Thanks for taking the time to show others that those old locos are still worth using! I have to say, though, the sound file on that decoder is awful. I don't mean volume, just the quality of sound. I could literally hear the decoder changing pitch as it tried to match throttle with engine sound. Is that just a generic file, or do all the Digitrax profiles sound so terrible?
A late Monday video! Very good video. Yes, if you plug an eight pin decoder into its socket without removing the JST 9-pin blanking plug you will destroy the decoder (I had customers who found out the hard way). I'm surprised that you didn't use a foam cradle to hold the engine when you were removing and replacing the couplers.
Good video, Larry. Seems like this would be a fairly simple installation. For the heck of it, I would probably replace the incandescent lights with LEDs too. One thing though, it may be my old ears but I could barely hear the sounds.
If I crank up the volume folks complain it is too loud so i leave it alone and others complain it is too low. As I said we’ll experiment with various sound volume settings in the followup video.
@@TheDCCGuy I imagine you get a lot of varying complaints on such things as the volume and I suppose most of the problem in my case is me. I am 78 and a bit hard of hearing, I have the volume wide open and could barely hear the bell and maybe the horn. Tell those folks complaining about the volume being too loud to turn it down. As I said, mine's wide open.
Thanks for the great explanation! I have to disagree that a GP38-2 sound file is a good sub for an SD40-2, though. Being dash-2 has nothing to do with the sound, as far as I'm aware, and the big difference is that the GP/SD38(-2)'s engine is Roots-blown, while the GP/SD40(-2) is turbocharged.
I’m sure you are correct, time for me stopped in 1957 so I lack that detailed knowledge of more modern diesels and they all sound alike to me (well sort of).
Hi Larry , just got this loco, exactly the same, if your lucky enough to have the exploded view sheet of parts with it, it tells you to remove the DC plug before installing the new DCC decoder.
Watched your video while following along, taking apart a Roundhouse Dash 9-44CW 'DCC ready' loco...found I have a 21 pin connector. Any suggestion for a decoder with sound? Thanks!
As far as I know all the manufacturers that make sound decoders would have a 21 pin decoder that would meet your needs. Just visit their respective websites and see which offers the functions and sounds you desire and the cost.
Thanks again for the great videos Larry! I am learning a lot from them. I just did my first "real" install which was taking out an ESU Essential Sound Unit from a new Walthers NW2. I put in a LokSound 5 micro and was able to squeeze a PowerPack by separating the capacitor from its board and having two wires to reconnect the board to the cap. The loco operated in reverse (movement and lights) and I was able to select the "reverse" function through the LokProgrammer to correct this. What did I do to create the reverse action in the first place? I matched all the color wires from the locomotive to the LokSound micro board (it had the wires attached to the smaller plug in board already). Second question, where would you connect a PowerPack on a ESU Essential Sound Unit board. I can't find much information on these new Essential Sound Unit boards. regards, NS.
I rarely depend on the factory installed wire colors, they’re just too undependable. It is likely you reversed the wires going to the motor. I have not seen an ESU Essential Sound Unit so can’t help you there.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks! I'm glad that reverse option was available on the programmer. Saved a lot of rewiring. If I find out about the ESU wiring for a PowerPack I'll let you know. Regards, NS.
@@Form44208 Just to re-iterate what Larry said, you just have the feeder wires to the motor backwards. You can set normal operation of loco in the decoder, but I like having them set correctly from a wiring perspective so that I'm not guessing on each loco.
@@JF-lt5zc Thank you! I'm the same way. I like stuff to be wired properly even if it cannot be seen. I hooked grey to grey and orange to orange, but apparently it was not wired on the decoder itself the correct way (I bought the decoder prewired). Next time I open it up, I will change it. It was a difficult install for me, being the first full install, still perfecting my soldering technique, and getting all those wires folded up inside this small shell was a chore for me. I don't know how people can work on stuff smaller than HO scale! regards, NS
I use a lot of sugar cube speakers in various sizes. Most from www.sbs4dcc.com . He has many sizes and enclosures. See my videos on installing speakers and various installations.
Hey all, I need some help here. Just picked up a couple of sweet Athearn AC4400's with the quick plug feature. I noticed the front coupler of one of them is missing the little screw. Where can I find a replacement screw? Does anyone know the size / thread? Or where they are sold? Thank you!
Most hobby shops should have a selection of small screws but you might also find them at a local hardware store. A 2-56 is a common screw used on models but in this case it may be smaller.
@TheDCCGuy thanks! I'm going to the Northeastern PA train show on March 3rd, maybe someone will have a spare parts bin lol. Do they make plug in decoders with the sounds of AC4400's? Thanks again for your help! Love your videos!
That decoder didn't sound too great. I think a Tsunami Econami would have been much better and wouldn't take much more effort to install. I'd venture to say you'll probably replace that one eventually. Keep the videos coming! They're very informative.
I agree and I have a second one with a Tsunami decoder in it. But installing such a decoder was not my goal for this video. For a more complete explanation see my next video on Friday.
Did you watch video 195 on uploading a different sound package and adjusting the volumes? How did you install the speaker, the enclosure needs to be sealed properly. The one in the video is from sugarcubeaudio65 on ebay (www.ebay.com/itm/223750106867?hash=item34188baef3:g:79kAAOSwO2ZexTgq)
I have this exact same unit....I've regauged and check the wheels over and over and all it does is derail. I've checked almost all the track where it hops off and it's always the middle axle that causes the front to lift and it just drives me nuts. They are the smooth newer wheels not the powdered metal ones. My Southern 3205 is cursed the same way. I've no idea to cure it.
There must be something in the trucks that is causing the wheels to be off center and cause a derail. Check the pickups and make sure they are not pushing the wheels off center.
@@TheDCCGuy brilliant! I'll give them a look-see ! Thanks buddy! I'm watching all your videos as I'm building a 6x12 layout so all your videos are appreciated! Keep up the good work!
@@CptAwesome747 I have had several emails from folks with the same problem in the last week so you are not alone. With NCE systems there is a difference between the short address “3” and the long address “003”. So at some point you have managed to get the system confused as to which you are using. Ry entering the address both ways and see if it responds.
I had it on hand, it was small enough to fit easily, comes with a range of loco sounds, it is a lot easier to program and upload sounds, and it had an 8 pin plug ready to go. It may not offer the same quality of sound and functionality as some other brands but it makes for an easy installation. I have an Atlas RS1 with that same sound package in a similar decoder that has been running now since 2015, no hiccups at all.
![Chino Pacas - Modo Capone (with Drake & Fuerza Regida) [Video Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zjv8TQ0gBkg/mqdefault.jpg)
Yes! Finally! I have one of these locomotives and have been searching for a video detailing how to remove the body shell to install a decoder. You're the first one to actually show it being done.
Thank you so much! I had no idea I could remove that weight to make room for the speaker.
I went with this decoder in an athearn SD38 and a old athearn SD50. The dcc and sound work fine in both. An affordable price for the upgrades, thank you.
Another great video to show how easy it is to upgrade a plug and play "DCC Ready" RTR. Me personally I would install a Soundtraxx Economi PNP board. Use the same speaker and power saver. Maybe worth upgrading the lights also to LED. Can't wait to see, or should say hear, the updated sound file you find to upload to it.
Yes, there are several other options as far as decoders go. However I wanted to make this as easy as possible by using the RTR options of the Athearn model. Plus, this loco spends most of the time sitting on a display shelf.
Thanks Larry, 🐾🚂 BearCreek KY.
Really enjoyed seeing it come together. I haven't tried upgrading or adding a decoder yet, but it's in my future so these are helpful.
I enjoy your install videos. Thank you
Looks real easy
Plug and play👍👍👍
Another great video, Larry. Thanks for taking the time to show others that those old locos are still worth using!
I have to say, though, the sound file on that decoder is awful. I don't mean volume, just the quality of sound. I could literally hear the decoder changing pitch as it tried to match throttle with engine sound.
Is that just a generic file, or do all the Digitrax profiles sound so terrible?
A late Monday video! Very good video. Yes, if you plug an eight pin decoder into its socket without removing the JST 9-pin blanking plug you will destroy the decoder (I had customers who found out the hard way). I'm surprised that you didn't use a foam cradle to hold the engine when you were removing and replacing the couplers.
Good video, Larry. Seems like this would be a fairly simple installation. For the heck of it, I would probably replace the incandescent lights with LEDs too. One thing though, it may be my old ears but I could barely hear the sounds.
If I crank up the volume folks complain it is too loud so i leave it alone and others complain it is too low. As I said we’ll experiment with various sound volume settings in the followup video.
@@TheDCCGuy I imagine you get a lot of varying complaints on such things as the volume and I suppose most of the problem in my case is me. I am 78 and a bit hard of hearing, I have the volume wide open and could barely hear the bell and maybe the horn. Tell those folks complaining about the volume being too loud to turn it down. As I said, mine's wide open.
Thanks for the great explanation!
I have to disagree that a GP38-2 sound file is a good sub for an SD40-2, though. Being dash-2 has nothing to do with the sound, as far as I'm aware, and the big difference is that the GP/SD38(-2)'s engine is Roots-blown, while the GP/SD40(-2) is turbocharged.
I’m sure you are correct, time for me stopped in 1957 so I lack that detailed knowledge of more modern diesels and they all sound alike to me (well sort of).
@@TheDCCGuy Fair enough. 😁
looking forward to the programing video. got several locos I would like to reprogram the sounds
Hi Larry , just got this loco, exactly the same, if your lucky enough to have the exploded view sheet of parts with it, it tells you to remove the DC plug before installing the new DCC decoder.
Watched your video while following along, taking apart a Roundhouse Dash 9-44CW 'DCC ready' loco...found I have a 21 pin connector. Any suggestion for a decoder with sound? Thanks!
As far as I know all the manufacturers that make sound decoders would have a 21 pin decoder that would meet your needs. Just visit their respective websites and see which offers the functions and sounds you desire and the cost.
Thanks again for the great videos Larry! I am learning a lot from them. I just did my first "real" install which was taking out an ESU Essential Sound Unit from a new Walthers NW2. I put in a LokSound 5 micro and was able to squeeze a PowerPack by separating the capacitor from its board and having two wires to reconnect the board to the cap. The loco operated in reverse (movement and lights) and I was able to select the "reverse" function through the LokProgrammer to correct this. What did I do to create the reverse action in the first place? I matched all the color wires from the locomotive to the LokSound micro board (it had the wires attached to the smaller plug in board already). Second question, where would you connect a PowerPack on a ESU Essential Sound Unit board. I can't find much information on these new Essential Sound Unit boards. regards, NS.
I rarely depend on the factory installed wire colors, they’re just too undependable. It is likely you reversed the wires going to the motor. I have not seen an ESU Essential Sound Unit so can’t help you there.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks! I'm glad that reverse option was available on the programmer. Saved a lot of rewiring. If I find out about the ESU wiring for a PowerPack I'll let you know. Regards, NS.
@@Form44208 Just to re-iterate what Larry said, you just have the feeder wires to the motor backwards. You can set normal operation of loco in the decoder, but I like having them set correctly from a wiring perspective so that I'm not guessing on each loco.
@@JF-lt5zc Thank you! I'm the same way. I like stuff to be wired properly even if it cannot be seen. I hooked grey to grey and orange to orange, but apparently it was not wired on the decoder itself the correct way (I bought the decoder prewired). Next time I open it up, I will change it. It was a difficult install for me, being the first full install, still perfecting my soldering technique, and getting all those wires folded up inside this small shell was a chore for me. I don't know how people can work on stuff smaller than HO scale! regards, NS
Hi Larry, thanks for your videos.
What type of speaker do you use and where you find it ?
I use a lot of sugar cube speakers in various sizes. Most from www.sbs4dcc.com . He has many sizes and enclosures. See my videos on installing speakers and various installations.
@@TheDCCGuy thanks very interesting shop
Hey all, I need some help here. Just picked up a couple of sweet Athearn AC4400's with the quick plug feature. I noticed the front coupler of one of them is missing the little screw. Where can I find a replacement screw? Does anyone know the size / thread? Or where they are sold? Thank you!
Most hobby shops should have a selection of small screws but you might also find them at a local hardware store. A 2-56 is a common screw used on models but in this case it may be smaller.
@TheDCCGuy thanks! I'm going to the Northeastern PA train show on March 3rd, maybe someone will have a spare parts bin lol. Do they make plug in decoders with the sounds of AC4400's?
Thanks again for your help! Love your videos!
Take a look at Soundtraxx decoders, they offer a wide range of diesel sound packages.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks again! And a great channel you have!
Could the volume levels be adjusted? The prime mover seems way too loud, horn way too soft.
GREAT VIDEO by the way Larry. Learned a lot.
Just watched the last few minutes of the video, you answered my question!
That decoder didn't sound too great. I think a Tsunami Econami would have been much better and wouldn't take much more effort to install. I'd venture to say you'll probably replace that one eventually. Keep the videos coming! They're very informative.
I agree and I have a second one with a Tsunami decoder in it. But installing such a decoder was not my goal for this video. For a more complete explanation see my next video on Friday.
Just installed one of these. The speaker is very quiet. Do i need a sugar cube speaker also?
What kinda of speaker did you upgrade to? Thank you
Did you watch video 195 on uploading a different sound package and adjusting the volumes? How did you install the speaker, the enclosure needs to be sealed properly. The one in the video is from sugarcubeaudio65 on ebay (www.ebay.com/itm/223750106867?hash=item34188baef3:g:79kAAOSwO2ZexTgq)
I have this exact same unit....I've regauged and check the wheels over and over and all it does is derail. I've checked almost all the track where it hops off and it's always the middle axle that causes the front to lift and it just drives me nuts. They are the smooth newer wheels not the powdered metal ones. My Southern 3205 is cursed the same way. I've no idea to cure it.
There must be something in the trucks that is causing the wheels to be off center and cause a derail. Check the pickups and make sure they are not pushing the wheels off center.
@@TheDCCGuy brilliant! I'll give them a look-see ! Thanks buddy! I'm watching all your videos as I'm building a 6x12 layout so all your videos are appreciated! Keep up the good work!
Installing DCC in Athearn models nowadays is like child’s play.
1. Solder the speaker and capacitor
2. Plug it in
3. Enjoy
Yep, they really have made an effort to make these installations easier for us.
I installed a digitrax decoder into my athrean ready to roll loco just like the video. I have sound but it won’t move. Any possible fixes?
Since you have sound it obviously is getting power, so check the wires to the motor. Also check your address settings.
@@TheDCCGuy I checked the wires and it ran fine as a DC locomotive. I have a NCE power cab and had it addressed to 3
@@CptAwesome747 I have had several emails from folks with the same problem in the last week so you are not alone. With NCE systems there is a difference between the short address “3” and the long address “003”. So at some point you have managed to get the system confused as to which you are using. Ry entering the address both ways and see if it responds.
@@TheDCCGuy I responds to just 3 and only has sound
@@TheDCCGuy I have tried both addresses and it will not move
I have the sd40 3173 , did it have a turbo or not ?
According to wikipedia it had a turbocharged prime mover.
Removing the weight cuts the pulling power ny some factor. Could create operating problems if the train has to much load.
They use screw in weights so they can be easily removed for adding DCC. If you need more pulling power just add another loco to the consist.
Why did you pick that decoder?
I had it on hand, it was small enough to fit easily, comes with a range of loco sounds, it is a lot easier to program and upload sounds, and it had an 8 pin plug ready to go. It may not offer the same quality of sound and functionality as some other brands but it makes for an easy installation. I have an Atlas RS1 with that same sound package in a similar decoder that has been running now since 2015, no hiccups at all.
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How is a gp38 gonna sound anything like an sd40-2? 38’s ain’t turbocharged