Tim, you make owning a 1025R easy. I save all your maintenance vids on my shop computer and rarely have to look at the manual. Thanks for another excellent tutorial.
I’m to have my 1025R delivered this week and am enjoying watching your maintenance videos. Very easy to understand and can’t wait to get some tractor seat time.
I'm in Australia and was looking at a sub compact for my small acreage, "I likes the Green one" !; and your videos sure helped make my mind up. You and your family are an inspiration to enjoy the simple things which I do. I am disabled with Muscular Dystrophy but wont accept a cant do attitude. You have me inspired to movie make along these lines to encourage others to get involved in activities they would not necessarily even try. If nothing else it will be fun with the grandkids. Cheers.
Congratulations! You'll have a good time with your Johnny. I would recommend that you get the non-Deere loader there in Australia. The self-leveling feature works much better on that one than on the Deere kit there.
Tim if this was first differential drain I would not worry a lot about the metal! I would probably run it about 20 hours and stick a small magnet into warm oil as soon as you stop the machine. Great video Tim. Thank you ! Be safe and God bless you and your family !!!!
Have changed all the fluids in my 4066R recently. Very disappointing that my John Deere dealer does not accept used oils. Especially disappointing when you paid the price for true John Deere fluids & filters!
Outstanding tutorial Tim! Isn't it amazing how fast our garages fill up?! My dream has always been a huge climate controlled pole barn... I'm done tripping over stuff! 😃👍
+ScoutCrafter it got really bad there for awhile. We cleaned it up recently...seems that a little organization goes a long way toward freeing up space!
Tim, great videos on how to do the maintenance on my tractor. Thank you! I would of been lost wo them as I bought this 2014 tractor in NM at a JD dealership and hauled it back to SoCAL and it came w no manuals. I bought the parts and oil from the Green Parts Store online, too. FYI I put in your discount code but it was declined.
Great video Tim. I did mine just last weekend with the 50 hour hst flush. Even mine at that point had a lot of fine stuff in it that made me think as well. I couldn't get over how dirty it was at 50 hours. Anyways keep up the great vids, and let us know if you change it again or follow up with the dealer with anything. We would all appreciate it.
Tim I like the chair I have one in the shed use it a lot when waiting as you probably know we have a Orange tractor but as you know most equipment has a lot in common PaK
I did this on mine at 50 hrs. I read and re-read my manual and checked online - the way I ended up interpreting service manual was that the manual didn't say not to do it at 50 and it was part of the transmission service section, so when I did my 50 hr, I just did front and back axles. Curious if others interpreted same way. I used solo cups to catch - yep too small :). I used cardboard (saved amazon boxes) under the front end to catch spills. I took some video of my 50 hr, but I didn't film the front axle piece. Been too busy to get it edited up - hopefully will have a few done soon. Hope y'all are doing well - as always great video!
+Tractor Therapy ...and it never hurts to change oil. If in doubt, change it. I wish I had changed my front axle oil at 50 now...having seen the output at 250.
Very true advice. I had quite a bit of metal shavings in front axle as well. That axle is so beefy I doubt it does any harm to run a little longer on the change out, though.
Let me first say your videos are very helpful, I think that I have watched most of them on maintaining the small JD tractor. Thank you so much. I attempted to use the coupon code when ordering and received a note that it was not valid. The video is several years old, so it would be fair that it may no longer be valid.
Tim, Thanks to you and all your family for making all the entertaining and informative video's. They have helped me in many areas with my 1025R. From purchases of numerous Heavy Hitch items, Original tractor cab, and bucket skid shoes. Of course always using the TTWT for helpful discounts ( thank you ). I do have a question in regards to annual maintenance in the manual it says to Drain water from fuel tank, not exactly sure how this is done. Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
to make the video more informative please show a close up of the oil container or say what kind of oil you are using to refill the axle.. a suggestion - put a trash bag or tarp on the the floor to catch oil spills
Tim I have a JD 4120. 43 hp. I have problems with leaking where each wheel bolts to the axle itself. I've tightened it many many times. When it first happened it was under warranty and it was at the JD dealership for a warranty repair and they called me to say it was leaking. Confused I asked could they just tighten the bolts. They did. When I got it home I was working moving dirt and I noticed the front end was acting funny. When i looked one side only had one secure boot holding it on. The others were hanging on by a thread or two each. I literally turned them w my fingers about a turn or two and they came out. There was no oil on the stick and took quit a bit to fill it up. I called JD they said maybe they forgot to tighten the bolts..??? I tightened them, replaced the oil and it kept leaking. I took it back to them , they called and said it was ready. Brought it home and overnight there was a puddle of oil on the shop floor. I refused to take it back to JD because I have lost trust with them. I have to constantly tighten the bolts otherwise the oil will leak out. Whew...long story....do you have any recommendations as to how to tighten the bolts to keep it from leaking? This has gone on since 2012. Seeing your video I thought I'd just ask. Maybe you or a subscriber might know what's going on.
thats like the deere dealers here in pei wich why john deere got them selve in a bad reputation wich my kubota dealer takeing most the deere customers for there service and comes out of the shop nice :) thats why i trust kubota dealers 100% then deeres accully
Michael Mac Tavish this particular dealer used to be the best in my region. This was years ago before it became Sunsouth. The owners made sure you were happy. But in the years Sunsouth bought it the service went south. I had bought several lawn mowers, a tractor and implements from them before the change. The first piece I bought after the change was a Gator. I could immediately tell during the buying process something was off. Same employees but the order in which things were done were different. There were many people who left that had worked for the previous owners. One was a good friend who was a salesman and he said it was hard to work for the Sunsouth franchise but he didn't go into specifics. He left and went to work for a privately owned dealership about 150 south of here and that's where I bought this tractor and implements. He had the same tractor which I tried at his house so I bought it from him as I had all my other JD machines. They delivered everything for free and even came and picked it up the first warranty work was done. Nothing major just a bit of slack in the joystick. Anyway long story short it's been hard to trust these guys. Since then Ive done all the work on it myself that I could including installing a Power Beyond kit when I added my backhoe. It's rough for me as I'm disabled but I'd rather do it right then chance it with them. Thanks for the input
I believe you stated 2.2 quarts in the front axle... I'll find out in an hour... Fluid Capacities Item Measurement Specification Fuel Tank Capacity 21.2 L (5.6 gal) Cooling System Capacity 3.7 L (3.9 qt) Crankcase with Filter Capacity 2.7 L (2.9 qt) Transmission and Hydraulic System Capacity 12.3 L (13 qt) Front Axle Capacity 2.8 L (3.0 qt)
The most effective way to clean your floor is to get a gallon of mineral spirits, two bags of oil dry and a stiff bristle push broom. Keep the area well ventilated and be careful about sparks or open flames due to the fumes !!!!!! Sprinkle out the mineral spirits over the oil spill areas and scrub with the broom, then cover generously with the oil dry. The chemical will break down to oil allowing the oil dry to soak it up, let it sit for a while, you can stir it with the broom and see it soaking up the chemical and cleaning the floor. Before you know it "Bob's you uncle" and your garage floor is clean as new. The oil dry can be reused several times, I have even spread it out on a old concrete pad and burned the oil out of it and put it back in the can to use again. It does work better in cooler weather and cool concrete, less evaporation and fumes.
If you know anyone that stayed in a hospital and had a wash pan they brought home and don't need, they work great for oil draining in tight places and they hold a lot of liquid.
Tim, What is the depth of your Pallet rack? I have a Two car garage with 7" doors and 8'6 ceilings, and am looking to add a pallet rack to one side to better stack, my Box blade, Tiller, Snow blower, Hopper spreader, Post hole digger. loader bucket, York Rake, Dethatcher (you get the idea. Tractor on one side and implements on the other. Wife's car on the outside any suggestions would be appreciated. or even a video on storage.
The Kidney Stone has her car outside right next to my 2012 F-250 so she cant complain. The John Deere 1025R and implements stay inside out of the weather so they do not rust up. The 1025 in one bay with a block heater for winter and the implements in the other bay. thats why i am looking for a pallet rack or two so I can clear up some floor space.
+Todd Smith I bought the pallet racking from a local used pallet rack place. That way, I could get exactly the pieces which fit my application. Less than $500 for all of the pallet rack in my shed
Great video! Question: Not sure if we should keep adding the new oil to the point where the oil comes out of the two bleed screw ports? Will the oil eventually bleed from the screw ports after an hour or so? I am thinking that the vent ports are well below the final oil level. Thanks
Great video. I can't see in the manual where it says to change the front axel fluid at 200 hrs. Probably good to do so but all I can see in my manual is to change it at 600 hrs. Do you have a service manual that says otherwise? Thanks.
Tractor Time with Tim Sounds good to me. Getting ready to do my fall oil/fluid changes along with fuel filters so the front axle will be on the list. I have 300 hrs on mine. Thanks :-)
Tim this weekend I changed my front axle fluid when I replaced the fuel filters and changed engine oil and filter, and greased it. I have 300 plus hrs. On the clock and I must say the axle fluid was very dirty down at the lower drain plugs. It was a very metallic looking fluid. Thanks for the video.
Wow, 250 hours and changing the front end?! My manual says to do it at 600 hours. So that's when I did it. Didn't see any metal in mine. I'm getting close to 900 hours. Next spring I should be right at 1000 and time to do the oils again except the front end. The 2210 I had for 10 years had 1400+ on it when I traded. Looks like I'm going to beat that with the 1026. Take care.
+mi2tn yea, i think you use your tractor for more than you did the 2210. Being a bit larger, it is probably a bit more useful. I think my book said 200 hrs for front axle changes.
Tim my 2016 with less then 200 hours has started leaking up front left set on the tractor the seal I guess has gone out on that side have you ever changed it are is that something i need to take in the parts is right at. 100 dollars and labor is 675 thanks for all the help you can help me with
Hey Tim, does the front axle take the same oil as the trans/hydraulics???? also, would you suggest adding "teflon tape" to the vent plug when you reinstall them???
Your manual has all of this information. The recommendations changed in 2018 for 2018 and newer machines. No more 50 hour change for front axle or hydraulic oil/filter.
because if it can build oil pressure than it will be fine i do 20k motor oil changes in me dump trucks and have never changed hydraulic oil or the gear oil in the transmissions or rear ends and they have over 500k miles on them
Hy-Gard Low Viscosity (LV) is equivalent to a 80W90 GL-5 Gear Oil. Using a GL-5 as our manual calls for fits this Viscosity requirement. Most John Deere Dealers spec and recommend the Hy-Gard LV vs the GL-5. The lower viscosity Hy-Gard
Can't believe you're draining oil on your nice, clean concrete floor. If I did that, I would bump something and have a big oil stain to remind me how bad an idea that was.
Observation: After you removed the plug to allow air to escape when filling, it dawned on me that the axle is potentially air tight when it's all closed up. Thus it gives some credibility to the idea of allowing the axle to breath via the vented dipstick that's covered in a different video. It makes senes now that when the axle is in use, it's mechanical and will generate some heat during operation. Without some way for the axle to breath, air will find the weakest point - the seals. I think I'll order the vented dipstick now.
It didn’t say to change it till 400 hours in my manual. I wanted to see it...and I’m glad I did change it. Did you see the old oil. LOTS of shavings in it.
The bread pan is just the right size for the lower front diff drains after draining from the main drain. 5 gallon bread pan is a very large loaf of bread.
Sorry, I didn’t see which video this comment was on..thought it was the hydraulic oil. Yes, bread pan would work great for the front differential draining.
tim i saw a big nut behind the ratchet and shame on you for not getting to johnny's needs lol you have time for your cheeseburgers lol just kidding i know there is more important things than draining johnny's very important joints oils im just having a hard time coming up with one lol
No where in the JD manual does it say what type of oil. You are using HY Gard Low Viscosity. I assume that is the correct oil as you don't mention it either. My dealer actually said 80-90w gear oil. (He was corrected by his secretary....lol)
Tim, you make owning a 1025R easy. I save all your maintenance vids on my shop computer and rarely have to look at the manual. Thanks for another excellent tutorial.
+Highlander John thanks John!
I’m to have my 1025R delivered this week and am enjoying watching your maintenance videos. Very easy to understand and can’t wait to get some tractor seat time.
Always love the videos on maintenance it's clearly needed. It's always nice to get another point of view.
+John Deno thanks John!
I'm in Australia and was looking at a sub compact for my small acreage, "I likes the Green one" !; and your videos sure helped make my mind up. You and your family are an inspiration to enjoy the simple things which I do. I am disabled with Muscular Dystrophy but wont accept a cant do attitude. You have me inspired to movie make along these lines to encourage others to get involved in activities they would not necessarily even try. If nothing else it will be fun with the grandkids. Cheers.
Congratulations! You'll have a good time with your Johnny. I would recommend that you get the non-Deere loader there in Australia. The self-leveling feature works much better on that one than on the Deere kit there.
Thanks, Tim. I have gone for the none Deere 4 in bucket.
Tim you and your family are good people, Thanks for another great video, God bless your home and all that you do. mike T
Excellent video! Thank you for demonstrating this so clearly. Made my diff oil change on my 1026R a breeze.
Tim if this was first differential drain I would not worry a lot about the metal! I would probably run it about 20 hours and stick a small magnet into warm oil as soon as you stop the machine. Great video Tim. Thank you ! Be safe and God bless you and your family !!!!
+Ray Eddy thanks Ray!
Nice job as always Tim, now I have to go outside and do it. Your information will make it a much easier job.
+B Tan yes, I should have changed sooner.
The front axle of that tractor seems to be really heavy and well made. I'm impressed.
the 3032e looks to have the same axle ^^
Great video. You make it look so simple, as it should be. Your saving me tons of money by doing my own maintenance. These are great tractors.
Have changed all the fluids in my 4066R recently. Very disappointing that my John Deere dealer does not accept used oils. Especially disappointing when you paid the price for true John Deere fluids & filters!
Great video, Tim! I always put a piece of cardboard under my catch pan!
+Fred Kaminski you are a smarter man than me!!!
Once again, your videos saved my JD. Really wish the the dipstick wasn't that color, makes it kinda challenging to check levels
Outstanding tutorial Tim! Isn't it amazing how fast our garages fill up?! My dream has always been a huge climate controlled pole barn... I'm done tripping over stuff! 😃👍
+ScoutCrafter it got really bad there for awhile. We cleaned it up recently...seems that a little organization goes a long way toward freeing up space!
Good video tim , now everyone can do it .
+Johan Bos easy enought!
Thanks Tim. I would have looked for quite a while finding the fill-up vent.
Hahah
I wish Menards would sponsor your channel. One of my favorite places to shop 😀
+Tommy Boy would be great, wouldn't it!?
thanks TIM I done my greenmachine the same way that you did.
Tim, great videos on how to do the maintenance on my tractor. Thank you! I would of been lost wo them as I bought this 2014 tractor in NM at a JD dealership and hauled it back to SoCAL and it came w no manuals. I bought the parts and oil from the Green Parts Store online, too. FYI I put in your discount code but it was declined.
GreenPartStore.com still honors our code. …for free shipping. Green farm parts does not.
Great video Tim. I did mine just last weekend with the 50 hour hst flush. Even mine at that point had a lot of fine stuff in it that made me think as well. I couldn't get over how dirty it was at 50 hours. Anyways keep up the great vids, and let us know if you change it again or follow up with the dealer with anything. We would all appreciate it.
+Sweet Manovers I should probably change it again...have about 285 on it now...change it just to see how bad it is.
Now I'll be confident when I do mine after this clear video!
+Cash Johnston thanks Cash!
This was another good maintenance video on the 1025r. It will help me as time goes by to take care of the 1025r I am about to buy from a friend.
Metal Paint trays work great for shallow areas and hold a lot of oil. :-)
+mattsbrute good idea.
Great videos, Tim. Pig mats are great for oil projects. Just throw it away if you spill
+R Eels good idea. How much $?
Starting at $8 on Amazon
Tim I like the chair I have one in the shed use it a lot when waiting as you probably know we have a Orange tractor but as you know most equipment has a lot in common
PaK
I did this on mine at 50 hrs. I read and re-read my manual and checked online - the way I ended up interpreting service manual was that the manual didn't say not to do it at 50 and it was part of the transmission service section, so when I did my 50 hr, I just did front and back axles. Curious if others interpreted same way. I used solo cups to catch - yep too small :). I used cardboard (saved amazon boxes) under the front end to catch spills. I took some video of my 50 hr, but I didn't film the front axle piece. Been too busy to get it edited up - hopefully will have a few done soon. Hope y'all are doing well - as always great video!
+Tractor Therapy yea, 'oops, this bucket is too small!!!' I thought folks would enjoy seeing that.
+Tractor Therapy ...and it never hurts to change oil. If in doubt, change it. I wish I had changed my front axle oil at 50 now...having seen the output at 250.
Very true advice. I had quite a bit of metal shavings in front axle as well. That axle is so beefy I doubt it does any harm to run a little longer on the change out, though.
Found the answer to my question below. Thank you.
Let me first say your videos are very helpful, I think that I have watched most of them on maintaining the small JD tractor. Thank you so much. I attempted to use the coupon code when ordering and received a note that it was not valid. The video is several years old, so it would be fair that it may no longer be valid.
Yes, order from GreenPartStore.com/ttwt
Use code ttwt for free shipping.
Maybe paint seal your concrete. Looks good and is easier to clean. If I ever get my garage empty (not likely) I will be doing that.
I use a old oil jug and cut a opening on one side and lay it flat it works great
Great idea.
Good informative video, THANKS!!
+Duke Snyder thanks for watching, Duke!
Great video I'm just to the 50 hr mark taking it in to john deere for an antifreeze leak so they are going to do the 50 the service
There's actually fill vent plugs on both sides of the axle.
Okay, how much oil should I pour in?
Wheew... pretty darn smooth at quickly putting that lower axle drain plug back in to overt an overflow. I would have had oil all over the floor. :-(
+EOSJOE ...I was nervous!
Tim, Thanks to you and all your family for making all the entertaining and informative video's. They have helped me in many areas with my 1025R. From purchases of numerous Heavy Hitch items, Original tractor cab, and bucket skid shoes. Of course always using the TTWT for helpful discounts ( thank you ). I do have a question in regards to annual maintenance in the manual it says to Drain water from fuel tank, not exactly sure how this is done. Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
There is sometimes water at the bottom of the sediment bowl. Perhaps that is what they are talking about.
Tim, are you going to check into why you had the metal fragments in your oil. Sounds like a project.
+Rick Saylor will probably change it again relatively soon to see if it still shows fragments.
to make the video more informative please show a close up of the oil container or say what kind of oil you are using to refill the axle.. a suggestion - put a trash bag or tarp on the the floor to catch oil spills
Great video
Another good video thanks
Tim I have a JD 4120. 43 hp. I have problems with leaking where each wheel bolts to the axle itself. I've tightened it many many times. When it first happened it was under warranty and it was at the JD dealership for a warranty repair and they called me to say it was leaking. Confused I asked could they just tighten the bolts. They did.
When I got it home I was working moving dirt and I noticed the front end was acting funny. When i looked one side only had one secure boot holding it on. The others were hanging on by a thread or two each. I literally turned them w my fingers about a turn or two and they came out.
There was no oil on the stick and took quit a bit to fill it up.
I called JD they said maybe they forgot to tighten the bolts..???
I tightened them, replaced the oil and it kept leaking. I took it back to them , they called and said it was ready. Brought it home and overnight there was a puddle of oil on the shop floor.
I refused to take it back to JD because I have lost trust with them.
I have to constantly tighten the bolts otherwise the oil will leak out.
Whew...long story....do you have any recommendations as to how to tighten the bolts to keep it from leaking?
This has gone on since 2012. Seeing your video I thought I'd just ask. Maybe you or a subscriber might know what's going on.
Sounds like you have either a damaged gasket or possibly a nicked or cut O ring. Will need disassembly to repair I am sure.
have you tried using blue loc-tite on the threads?
thats like the deere dealers here in pei wich why john deere got them selve in a bad reputation wich my kubota dealer takeing most the deere customers for there service and comes out of the shop nice :) thats why i trust kubota dealers 100% then deeres accully
heated38 no that hasn't even crossed my mind. I'll certainly give it a try
Michael Mac Tavish this particular dealer used to be the best in my region. This was years ago before it became Sunsouth. The owners made sure you were happy. But in the years Sunsouth bought it the service went south. I had bought several lawn mowers, a tractor and implements from them before the change. The first piece I bought after the change was a Gator. I could immediately tell during the buying process something was off. Same employees but the order in which things were done were different.
There were many people who left that had worked for the previous owners. One was a good friend who was a salesman and he said it was hard to work for the Sunsouth franchise but he didn't go into specifics. He left and went to work for a privately owned dealership about 150 south of here and that's where I bought this tractor and implements. He had the same tractor which I tried at his house so I bought it from him as I had all my other JD machines. They delivered everything for free and even came and picked it up the first warranty work was done. Nothing major just a bit of slack in the joystick.
Anyway long story short it's been hard to trust these guys. Since then Ive done all the work on it myself that I could including installing a Power Beyond kit when I added my backhoe. It's rough for me as I'm disabled but I'd rather do it right then chance it with them.
Thanks for the input
Are your plugs magnetic?
It should help keep metal fragments out of your oil.
I believe you stated 2.2 quarts in the front axle...
I'll find out in an hour...
Fluid Capacities
Item Measurement Specification
Fuel Tank Capacity 21.2 L (5.6 gal)
Cooling System Capacity 3.7 L (3.9 qt)
Crankcase with Filter Capacity 2.7 L (2.9 qt)
Transmission and Hydraulic System Capacity 12.3 L (13 qt)
Front Axle Capacity 2.8 L (3.0 qt)
Mine as well. 3015
The most effective way to clean your floor is to get a gallon of mineral spirits, two bags of oil dry and a stiff bristle push broom. Keep the area well ventilated and be careful about sparks or open flames due to the fumes !!!!!!
Sprinkle out the mineral spirits over the oil spill areas and scrub with the broom, then cover generously with the oil dry.
The chemical will break down to oil allowing the oil dry to soak it up, let it sit for a while, you can stir it with the broom and see it soaking up the chemical and cleaning the floor. Before you know it "Bob's you uncle" and your garage floor is clean as new.
The oil dry can be reused several times, I have even spread it out on a old concrete pad and burned the oil out of it and put it back in the can to use again.
It does work better in cooler weather and cool concrete, less evaporation and fumes.
+mrgearheadfromhell sounds good.
My dad wants your theme song as a ring tone haha. Any way you can send it to me ?
If you know anyone that stayed in a hospital and had a wash pan they brought home and don't need, they work great for oil draining in tight places and they hold a lot of liquid.
+Ken Litherland Good idea! I have one but use it for potatoes - I only allow Tim to have the used Cool Whip and Cottage Cheese containers! -Christy
Christy, you should buy him the big bowl of Cool Whip. I'm. Sure he could finish one off only for the oil changes.
+Ken Litherland Mmm!
Tim, What is the depth of your Pallet rack? I have a Two car garage with 7" doors and 8'6 ceilings, and am looking to add a pallet rack to one side to better stack, my Box blade, Tiller, Snow blower, Hopper spreader, Post hole digger. loader bucket, York Rake, Dethatcher (you get the idea. Tractor on one side and implements on the other. Wife's car on the outside any suggestions would be appreciated. or even a video on storage.
+Todd Smith wife's car on the outside?? Bad plan! Anyway, my pallet rack is 46" deep, but most are 42" or 48"
The Kidney Stone has her car outside right next to my 2012 F-250 so she cant complain. The John Deere 1025R and implements stay inside out of the weather so they do not rust up. The 1025 in one bay with a block heater for winter and the implements in the other bay. thats why i am looking for a pallet rack or two so I can clear up some floor space.
+Todd Smith I bought the pallet racking from a local used pallet rack place. That way, I could get exactly the pieces which fit my application. Less than $500 for all of the pallet rack in my shed
love the chair
Great video! Question: Not sure if we should keep adding the new oil to the point where the oil comes out of the two bleed screw ports? Will the oil eventually bleed from the screw ports after an hour or so? I am thinking that the vent ports are well below the final oil level. Thanks
Great video. I can't see in the manual where it says to change the front axel fluid at 200 hrs. Probably good to do so but all I can see in my manual is to change it at 600 hrs. Do you have a service manual that says otherwise? Thanks.
+Laurie Harding I dunno for sure. I can say that my oil looked horrible. I regret not changing at 50 or 100 hrs.
Tractor Time with Tim Sounds good to me. Getting ready to do my fall oil/fluid changes along with fuel filters so the front axle will be on the list. I have 300 hrs on mine. Thanks :-)
Tim this weekend I changed my front axle fluid when I replaced the fuel filters and changed engine oil and filter, and greased it. I have 300 plus hrs. On the clock and I must say the axle fluid was very dirty down at the lower drain plugs. It was a very metallic looking fluid. Thanks for the video.
+Laurie Harding yes, mine was the same! We really should change this at 100 hours!
Was there not a vent on the other side on top? Could have sworn mine has one on each side.
Hey Tim, what are your thoughts on the vented fill plug that everyone is talking about?
save a one gallon jug lay it on it side cut the top off works great for draining the plugs by the tires
Wow, 250 hours and changing the front end?! My manual says to do it at 600 hours. So that's when I did it. Didn't see any metal in mine. I'm getting close to 900 hours. Next spring I should be right at 1000 and time to do the oils again except the front end. The 2210 I had for 10 years had 1400+ on it when I traded. Looks like I'm going to beat that with the 1026. Take care.
+mi2tn yea, i think you use your tractor for more than you did the 2210. Being a bit larger, it is probably a bit more useful.
I think my book said 200 hrs for front axle changes.
You might be right but I think I put more hours on the 1026 because I'm retired and have more days to use it. :)
Great video. Were there metal shavings in the oil?
+Tim KD5VMV yes, lots of tiny shavings. They made the oil look like metallic paint. I'm hoping I don't have issues with the axles!
Wondering if you have a video replacing the hoses, power steering. 2 small hoses by the left front tire.
No, I don’t. Did they wear out against the tire?
Yes front left tire. I managed to fix it, this old novice guy. Appreciate your videos, it gives me the confidence to maintain and fix my tractor.
Tim my 2016 with less then 200 hours has started leaking up front left set on the tractor the seal I guess has gone out on that side have you ever changed it are is that something i need to take in the parts is right at. 100 dollars and labor is 675 thanks for all the help you can help me with
You wouldn't have any room left in your shop if Menards sponsored you haha
+Tommy Boy but they might build me a bigger shop!
Hey Tim, does the front axle take the same oil as the trans/hydraulics???? also, would you suggest adding "teflon tape" to the vent plug when you reinstall them???
Yes, same oil, no to Teflon tape.
It would have been good to show the axil oil container so I can ask for the correct oil. Thanks
Do you have a manual?
Looks like a new toy in the create behind Johnny. ............
+Josh Oakley yep! Stay tuned!
Hello ! I have a 1023e , should I be changing my front axle fluid at my first 50 hours ? What kind of service should I be doing at my first 50 hours ?
Your manual has all of this information. The recommendations changed in 2018 for 2018 and newer machines. No more 50 hour change for front axle or hydraulic oil/filter.
You say to check it every hour or so after filling it, does the oil get hot enough in the front axle? Should it be left to cool down first?
+P0tat07 not sure. Refer to the owner's manual for the most accurate info!
thanks Tim
+Michigantler thanks! I forget, do you have a 1-series?
I buy that cheap cat litter and keep on hand for just such jobs because I always make a mess! :)
+MrJohn714 sounds good!
We do the same thing
cat litter and old cardboard boxes our my friend lol
Dumb-question of the day Do I use the same oil in my front axle as my hydraulic/transmission? I have low-vis Hygard.
Yes
@@TractorTimewithTim Thank you :)
I have a 2320 with 300 hours on it and I've never changed any of the oils. Still has factory oil and filters
+SoFlo Antonio uh, that is not good. You need to change the fluids immediately!
Tractor Time with Tim should be fine I have a John Deere skid steer with 2000 hours on factory oil and filters
+SoFlo Antonio why?
because if it can build oil pressure than it will be fine i do 20k motor oil changes in me dump trucks and have never changed hydraulic oil or the gear oil in the transmissions or rear ends and they have over 500k miles on them
the only thing i really change the oil in is any on road vehicles and anything with a dpf everything else can wait til i have nothing better to do
What's the best way to dispose of the used oil?
Are you suppose to change it after 50 hours as well?
Yes.
On mine the service manual said to change the front axle oil at 600 hours.
Maybe so. ...mine had LOTS of shavings in it. Wish I had changed it even earlier.
Guess I will change mine also thanks.
Doesn’t take much oil, or much time, so no reason to defer.
So do you check the front axle fluid level with the stick all the way screwed in or unscrew it?
All the way in.
What velocity is it? I'm gone paying JD prices
Hy-Gard Low Viscosity (LV) is equivalent to a 80W90 GL-5 Gear Oil. Using a GL-5 as our manual calls for fits this Viscosity requirement. Most John Deere Dealers spec and recommend the Hy-Gard LV vs the GL-5. The lower viscosity Hy-Gard
Ask finance dept. first lol
Johnny needs more room to relax. Johnny got a workout this summer 😉
+Tommy Boy he really did!
Do you not use a little pipe dope on the threads to prevent leak by? OH, I found my bucket float setting on my 3039R, Thank You.
+H Smith I do not. Haven't noticed any leaks. Glad you found the float!
What do you do with the old oil?
We have a local recycle place that will take it.
Shouldn't you exercise Johnny first to warm up the fluid before draining it?
HI Tim..question for you is the axle fluid the same as the trans hydraulic fluid used in the transmission?
+Robert Sickinger yes
Thank you sir!
Can't believe you're draining oil on your nice, clean concrete floor. If I did that, I would bump something and have a big oil stain to remind me how bad an idea that was.
What if I have x748 from 2009 and I dont have this yellow cork. How then to do it?. Then how to check oil condition (level) ?
Your owner’s manual will show you where to check the oil level.
@@TractorTimewithTim I dont have this book.
You can find it online.
@@TractorTimewithTim I'll try, but I cant find it. You have to pay for the catalog everywhere.
techinfo-omview.apps-prod-vpn.us.e06.c01.johndeerecloud.com/omview/omuc24031/09001faa8439b8d3
Observation: After you removed the plug to allow air to escape when filling, it dawned on me that the axle is potentially air tight when it's all closed up. Thus it gives some credibility to the idea of allowing the axle to breath via the vented dipstick that's covered in a different video. It makes senes now that when the axle is in use, it's mechanical and will generate some heat during operation. Without some way for the axle to breath, air will find the weakest point - the seals. I think I'll order the vented dipstick now.
Don’t forget code ttwt at otisinnovations.com
@@TractorTimewithTim Thanks!!
Did Cool Whip sponsor you? Lol
+Tommy Boy was planning to say that, but forgot. You know how we often have 'fake sponsors' like menards, blue bird, etc.
My Owners Manual says to change the axle oil at 600 hrs. Where did you get 200 hrs?
It didn’t say to change it till 400 hours in my manual. I wanted to see it...and I’m glad I did change it. Did you see the old oil. LOTS of shavings in it.
Discussed on Greentractortalk.com. Lots of first hand experience there.
I would have taken the drain plugs out and get a beverage. Oil would have been all over. Thanx
Use a bread pan. It fits just fine and has adequate capacity
Where do you find a 5 gal bread pan?
The bread pan is just the right size for the lower front diff drains after draining from the main drain.
5 gallon bread pan is a very large loaf of bread.
Sorry, I didn’t see which video this comment was on..thought it was the hydraulic oil. Yes, bread pan would work great for the front differential draining.
Finance committee doesn't approve of using items from the kitchen for tractor maintenance. :)
250 hours is all you got? I put on like a 100 hours just in a month playing with my smaller tractor on weekends and around 10 on my bigger tractor
+Video-gamer-for-life i have almost 290 now.
tim i saw a big nut behind the ratchet and shame on you for not getting to johnny's needs lol you have time for your cheeseburgers lol just kidding i know there is more important things than draining johnny's very important joints oils im just having a hard time coming up with one lol
+philip young good stuff Philip!
Not sponsored by Cool Whip!
Right!
TIm is the steering fluid on the same line as the transmission
Yes, only one pump on 1025r
@@TractorTimewithTim thank you .
I use WD40 on oil spills, on my concrete floors and drive, as long as they aren't massive, lol
+Bill Craddock sounds good!
No where in the JD manual does it say what type of oil. You are using HY Gard Low Viscosity. I assume that is the correct oil as you don't mention it either. My dealer actually said 80-90w gear oil. (He was corrected by his secretary....lol)
Says it right on the fill cap.
I’ve ran low vis and regular hygard. Didn’t notice a difference
@@TractorTimewithTim glad to know the low vis works... I ordered and didn't realize it was low vis... I was worried about it in the summer
👍
Dorf on John Deere. Did anyone ever tell you you look like Tim Conway?
I get told I look like lots of different folks. I think this is a first for Tim Conway.
Tractor Time with Tim Tim Conway is incredibly funny and an awesome human being. This is one to put in the highest compliment column.
Oh my gosh, he does!
Don’t trust sponsor videos!
We try to be trustworthy. Check us. Hold us accountable. Our character is more important than a few dollars.
😮ว้าววววว
Haha
Oil name please?
If the front agile is low can I just add some oil without draining? My tractor is a 1023 and I have only 90 hours on it.