Craftsman self-propel auto choke problem fixed & runs pretty good!
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- Опубликовано: 5 апр 2017
- Got this Craftsman self-propel in on trade that would run but would stay on full choke and sputter until it was flooded out. Have had multiple Briggs and Stratton 675 series with this setup and have fixed the problem by disconnecting the choke arm with the lever connected to the exhaust. After doing this the mower ran like it was supposed to and is ready to live on to mow another day! If anyone knows the benefit to that arm connected to the exhaust for the choke let me know, I've seen no benefit to it as of yet.
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Your disconnect job at 5:52 in the video, that is how it's SUPPOSED TO BE. You did fine my boy.
It is a "heat stove" .
As the exhaust warms up it allows the choke lever to advance forward. There is a thermostatic coil below there that is attached to th muffler.
They apparently have NOT been adjusted to operate in sync very well.
If the choke stays on too long, then yes, disengaging it is one field expedient way to free it up. As long as it starts again when cold.
Dang it if this didn't work for mine too! I'm glad...don't get me wrong, but to say that it makes sense would be a stretch. It doesn't really change how the thermo coil operates, just how that plastic lever moves with the coil arm. I noticed the opening for coil arm, where the plastic choke arm goes into can be tightened or expanded... which I'm sure impacts the when and how much that choke opens/closes. I fooled with it... didn't make much difference. But to simply remove the plastic choke arm altogether and it works perfect... just silly. I'll take it... but silly that it works! Thanks for sharing this video!
Glad I was able to help you out!
Sorry folks...I am definitely late to the game and actually read some of the earlier comments to see your wise comments.
Actually at 5:53 you fixed it. That is how it's supposed to be. You must have gotten 3 mowers that some dum dum's worked on. AND I ain't talking about the candy. When the engine is cold the choke is closed. When you start it the air vane moves with the air flow from the flywheel and opens the choke. The arm from the muffler moves back when the engine is cooled to reset the choke. You DID NOT disconnect it you put it like it should be.....
pawning the stuff
Right?! my thoughts exactly.
Hooooooray 😂
You are correct!
Easy fix on a trade in...gotta love those. Looking forward to your next video :)
Thank you, no more trade-ins yet but at the least will do a mower update in the next couple days.
The position you placed it in is the correct placement, the way it should go. Just need to center the arm in the middle of both front and side marks...
The metal arm that sticks up behind the muffler is a heat gauge that the choke arm pushes open when the muffler becomes hot.
great fix! I've never liked these auto choke carbs, I've got one that I haven't worked on yet I'll give your fix a try.
So far the auto chokes haven't bothered me too bad, I did have one that was troublesome a few years ago though. Don't know why that choke arm is connected to the exhaust but it doesn't seem like the best design. Hopefully you'll get the one you have fixed soon too!
the arm to the muffler is thermo choke called the engine Air vane lever, if you live in a warm country or your mower starts to run to hot and starv for fuel it opens and as Mr Tincutter says about the marks to set is correct. you might get away with disconnecting it but your mower once it is running hot will starv for fuel ,making your mower ping lessing the life of the mower , if all your springs to the carbi and that lever are set right it will run fine
That metal lever assembly adjacent to the muffler is a thermostat. It positions the choke lever at optimum position for the outside temperature the mower is operating in.
There are 2 marks on the air vane hook surrounding the thermostat arm. Both on the front and the side. The bendable front tab of the thermostat arm is to be set so that it is in the middle of both sets of marks and centered up as a result.
Correct answer!!! Winner winner chicken dinner...
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Great video! Awesome tip....
Thanks!!!
Well i just learned something new. I got a similar mower the other day and it was surging. Now i know that i put that plastic arm in the wrong spot.
Glad to find this video,thanks,I was having starting issues with the choke keeping closed.💯
That little thing is the air vain that operates you're automatic choke when the fly will is turning
Nice! Started at first pull after doing this! Thanks
Glad I could help!
The air vane also pulls the choke mostly OFF when it starts, before the thermostat gets hot and pulls the choke OFF. You were right to unhook the thermostat arm from the air vane, the thermostat arm is supposed to be between the two lines on the air vane arm (see Briggs service manual).
great tip had to subscribe..thank you
You're welcome, glad this video helped you out!
There have been several briggs&stratton engines that either escaped the factory this way or ignorant people have done this. The arm coming up from the muffler is not supposed to be hooked through the air vane! The arm goes AGAINST it. The curved part is a minimum cold adjustment,if it is bent too open it will defeat the choke so err on the more closed setting. This arm allows for less or no choke when the engine is warm/hot.
You have a stuck auto choke! The spring that is supposed to open it after
choking is weak and will not open it! If you pull it open with your
finger, it will run like a new mower, until you choke it again and it
sticks again!
I have the same Briggs auto choke except on a toro...i am having a problem with it stalling under load...i haven't gotten a chance to really dig too much into it but I'm thinking could be something as simple as dull blades...i was looking at the governor and wasn't really sure how it worked or if it was missing anything
There's one spring for the governor that also controls the speed. If it's running at the appropriate speed and the throttle/governor spring is on it then it should be okay unless the engine is down on power or you're trying to cut through really thick grass.
I had the same problem. Too awesome lawnmower I love those Decks. Very nice
Yes this was a very nice mower.
Wish you would have listed the part number of the plastic arm ?????????
That is a thermostat for the choke on carburetor it opens and shuts the choke on the carburetor
Awesome video, great tips. One question, you mentioned that you had just gotten the dust blocker/ clippings bag. Where did you buy it? I have been searching for one but cant seem to find it
I had it in my stash of items, but if you have your model number you can look up a parts or accessories manual online and it will give you the part number for the bag. Don't know if they are available new anymore. Some Husqvarna bags fit too.
I'm having the opposite problem. The spring on mine is too weak and won't hold the choke closed long enough to run good and warm up.
Interesting, I have a Troy-Bilt that I did this to and it doesn't even have a spring and runs great. It runs off the air turbulence from the flywheel. Good luck getting it fixed though!
its a auto choke thermostat and it is supposed to be unhooked from the governor arm just like you just did it.
Yep. The dufas who “worked” on it put it back together wrong. He probably cleaned the carb and then hooked the vane through the thermostat and couldn’t figure out why it wouldn’t run right.
Thanks, bro. I fixed my 11 year old mower from your video.
Thanks for watching!
It keeps the choke open when the engine is hot.
I have this same engine. I recently flipped it on its side to change the blade, now it won’t start. Any tips on what could have happened??
You may have tipped the mower with the carb and air filter down. If so there's a good chance oil got into the carb as well as soaked the air filter causing it not to start. I'd check to see if that happened. If so you will need to clean out the carb of the oil and it should run again as long as it's not clogged up.
I did this to mine and it runs fine then starts idling really funny. I have adjusted it to the way you have it and the way people say it to be and unless i wire tie the throttle to the correct idle, it revs up and down, up and down and dies and will never stay running unless i tie a wire tie to the correct idle position. Any way to show a link to someone adjusting this correctly would really, really help. I've had two people look at that tried to adjust it and same thing.
Is it throwing out black smoke when it does? You could have an unrelated problem with a coil or plug breaking down, or a partially clogged jet in the carb.
@@EllisMowersandmore No, I finally found a dealer video last night that shows the exact position of the choke thermostat. Between the two lines and bent back between the two lines and now it works perfect. It's one of my extra mowers, backup to my work mowers. I actually use it for high grass mainly because it just cuts better and is super strong at doing it. I really appreciate you commenting back.
@@brianpage7569 yes sir thanks for watching! This was one of my very early videos so learning as I go. Sometimes I don't always get it right. Glad you were able to get it fixed!
I've been working on small engines for over 50 years. Mr tentcutter is correct.
I own a lawnmower with that same engine. I cleaned the carburetor but the engine is hard to start and hard to re-start. I tightened the cylinder head bolts too. What do you think the problem is?
I've had one with this engine where the coil was dirty which caused a hard start condition. Check for good spark if you find that the carb checks out good. If you spray carb cleaner in it and it fires right up then you still have a fuel issue.
Will an engine start even if the valves are not fully seating?
Probably not as it would cause it to have low to no compression if they're not seating tightly enough.
@@EllisMowersandmore I owned a walk behind lawnmower that was hard to get re-started and I was told it needed a valve job is why I asked.
Ive picked one of these mowers up for about $50 and its actually in better condition than this one. Its a 7 hp but starts and runs great until you stop to empty the bag. It wont start back up when its hot. Ive been using starting fluid to start it and havent had much time to tear it apart. I did however try closing the choke plate and it fires right up when hot if you close the choke plate. Any suggestions?
Very nice, since it starts on starter fluid when hot it doesn't sound like a spark issue. You might have a tiny blockage in the carb that doesn't rear its head until restarting when hot. Id try taking some compressed air and blowing it into the carb ports that you can access by taking off the air filter. I doubt it is a choke linkage issue like this one according to your description.
@@EllisMowersandmore thanks for the reply. I will pull the carb off when i get a chance. As good a shape as the mower is in i would bet it sat unused with fuel in it most of its life. On another note, i bought a 1989 MTD 5/24 snowblower for dirt cheap. It ran great but poured oil out the breather. Tried changing oil and replacing the breather with no change. It had an old tecumseh engine on it that i just replaced with a harbor freight predator engine but would like to try and fix the old engine. Any suggestions?
@@63jeepj20 You're very welcome. Yeah the carb is where I'd start. As for the snowblower, I don't work on them as I'm in NC but for the 5hp Tecumseh if it is blowing oil out the breather I would look at worn piston rings especially with the age. Does it smoke at all? You could possibly try an oil additive like no smoke or another oil thickening device to see if that reduces blow by. Also, check to make sure it isn't running too fast, had a 10hp Tecumseh with lots of blow by that had a bad governor on it and ran too fast. Just throwing some ideas around from previous experiences. Those old Tecumsehs are tough and would make for a good project to tear into if you had the time.
@@EllisMowersandmore it has great compression which doesnt necessarily mean the rings arent worn. It pukes oil even at an idle. There was only 1 time that i was able to run it and it didn't have a single drop of oil come out. Then i shut it off thinking i may have fixed it but when i started it back up it was puking oil again. Its a 2 stage snowblower with a throttle control. I thought about rebuilding it but being in Utah and already having a snowstorm i decided it would be easier and the same amount of money to just throw a predator engine on it.
Now that the snow has melted and im not distracted by the Jeep J10 Honcho that i bought over the winter ive had a chance to look at this. Pulled the carb off and cleaned it out, there was some junk in the bowl. I blew out the passages and put it back together. Started right up and after running for a few minutes i shut it off and tried to restart with no luck.
repair clinic has an excellent video on the adjustment of t he thermstat.
my experience is that it you adjust the thermostat wrong you can/will have the rich running problem.. anything that fixes the thermostat arm to the air vein will create problems..
repairclinic.com
oh, the surging is usually caused by restricted fuel flow in the carb...
I'm a little confused. The metal choke arm is to move freely when it warms up, and pushes the plastic arm coming from the carb side. Was it that both metal and plastic arms got stuck to eachother? I've never known that to happen. Is the connection to each that sensitive that they should touch but not get stuck together? By the way... THUMBS UP!!!
I'm gonna reply to my own query, and further down "the Old Guy Phil" has pointed to a Briggs and Stratton help video explaining the adjustment of that all important thermostat arm and how it relates to the plastic airvane hook. There are tolerance marks on the plastic airvane hook that the metal thermostat arm must be bent with a pliers to fit. Move the arm left or right to fit the markings, and bend the metal gooseneck to fit the side of the markings. See this video specifically, click >> ruclips.net/video/Z3XP5mz59mA/видео.html
Thermostat lever should be free
it is a auto choke
You have a stuck auto choke! The spring that is supposed to open it after
choking is weak and will not open it! If you pull it open with your
finger, it will run like a new mower, until you choke it again and it
sticks again!
I hate these kinds of craftsman, no offense.
None taken, I think the front ends are rather weak on them and the decks tend to split in the back in front of the back wheels from what I've seen.
they work great. when they work,but they are hell when they dont.