I grew up in the 1980's and 1990's and picked up my gun cleaning methods from my dad, brother, uncles and friend's dads, father in law etc. They all basically did the same thing; they cleaned deer hunting rifles (rural Michigan) and all of them used Hoppe's NO.9 with a bore brush, then dried it out and followed up with Rem Oil or that orange container of Hoppe's oil. I used to do this method for years until someone told me "solvent, you got to be 100% sure you get it all off or it will eat, and eat, and eat, and eat away at your metal and ruin the gun". I have no idea if this is true, but it was enough for me to say, i'm just going with a non solvent option! And here I am.
Man thank you for keeping revolvers alive and being the greatest revolver channel out there your channel is very factual and precise also man get a gp100😂 lol
I want to make mention that I recorded this video a day ago with plans to slowly release ballistic tests and add more content like this due to being 'unmonetized" which is different than RUclips demonetization (weird issue I am having on the Adsense end), but since yesterday and today I have had someone (not RUclips/Patreon related) front me 3 months worth of testing supply funds so that I can keep on trucking with the same level and quality of content I been doing. I now plan to release videos every Tuesday and Friday of ballistic tests like I have been doing for years.
It is interesting that everyone has a different ritual for cleaning. Two of my revolvers are blued and the third is black probably an alloy finish. My Grandfather taught me to clean the rifle and revolver in the 60s. He always used Mineral Spirits and Mineral Oil. Worked great. Today, I do use Ballistol or CLP along with #9 but I always (from habit) get the bore and cylinders wet with Mineral spirits before I use the Ballistol . I only use a nylon brush on my revolvers. Before I put them away, I have a piece of flannel impregnated with a bit of mineral oil to wipe down. Don't like the silicone cloths. k The Mineral Oil keeps the bluing looking good and on my old US Revolver - protects from rust. 😀 Thanks Sam
I like these behind the scenes videos, like the one of how you reuse the ballistic gel and this one. Ballistol has been my go to for a while now and seems to work well.
I have posted in the past .. cleaned a New 629 3" left a tiny ball of cleaning rag under the star , the revolver acted odd & wouldn't fire . The ball had flattened & was not much larger than a few flakes of unburnt powder . Remember this when for no apperent reason odd things start to happen .
This was again a wonderful, informative video. Thanks for taking the time to do this. I have used Mother's aluminum mag cleaner to get off some of the tough staining on the front of cylinders.
Thanks. I used to use Simonize chrome polish on my cylinder face which worked good, then as you see I have turtle wax brand which doesn't do all that well. I been meaning to get Mother's as it's been recommended to me for years, I just always end up brush cleaning my revolvers so I keep putting off trying it.
Very good and useful vid! I appreciate all of the rambling comments---always a gem or two there! BUT, you did not open the side-plate to reveal the clockworks! I feel this is necessary at least once per year for a carried gun---it does get dirt inside! I once opened a nearly new, used "hammerless" S&W revolver and found it to be BONE DRY inside, no lubrication at all, with a big ball of lint in there! Many of the inside parts were NOT stainless! It only took a tiny dot of oil in a couple of moving points to REALLY slick up the trigger action. It would be very useful to show all of the less-experienced revolver users how to gently and safely open the side-plate and inspect the crucial interior workings............................elsullo
I have opened it up on videos before, just not here. And you are right, it's a once in a year thing so I felt no need to show it. I have honestly went several years with some of my revolvers without opening it up and when I do, it's fine. That is one reason I like Ballistol better than this CLP. When I would open it up, I could just spray it in there and it was like it had a drying effect all while it was lubing it, if that makes sense. Then I would just flip it, let it all drain out and dry as much as possible with Q-tips. I hate removing all the action parts as by the end of it I am on RUclips trying to remember how that damn rebound spring goes in or some other problem lol
Great video. I just switched to a 686 as I have an index finger problem and I seem to be able to pull the trigger on a revolver easier than my automatics. I really love my 686 and I really appreciate your channel and your nice calm honest way of presenting your information. Keep it up. I subscribed and I appreciate all your work. Jim
Have you ever tried those lead removal cloths? Think it’s from Birchwood Casey. I cut a small section to remove the burn marks from the cylinders on the stainless revolvers. Works amazing
I have heard of them, but never tried them. My workaround is I basically never shoot lead ammo. It's rare for me. Even if I am wanting to do some high volume shooting, i'll go with plated or even XTP bullets and loads them myself to offset the cost. I hate lead ammo in general because of lead chunks that build up.
Pro tip: Never ever ever ever ever spray down your firearm with BrakeClean! It removes everything for sure. Everything including all the oil that has penetrated into the steel to provide vital lubrication. The cure to that mistake is a complete soak in light machine oil. Then you have to wipe that off. Then you can put a bit of CLP on everything and another wipe down.
Watching you clean that revolver remined me of why I hate cleaning revolvers. I have spent countless hours scrubbing my revolvers. Cleaning my Glock is so much easier
I feel in some regards cleaning revolvers is easier, for the fact I know it's clean. With Glocks and other black semi autos, you can't see the grit and nasty stuff around all the parts in the polymer grip. Yes I can 'clean' a semi auto faster, but all I really did was clean the slide okay, mostly clean the barrel etc.
I grew up with Fuds in the family, friend's dad's were Fuds and all of that. They rarely had handguns, but always, I mean always they had it down pact that you use Hoppe's number 9, and when you are done you used Hoppe's oil or Rem oil and that's just how it was. So I took what I knew growing up and for years did solvent and then oil. I never used mineral spirits, just the gun solvent and oils. Now I did learn many years ago from a father in law I had, that WD-40 makes a great all around bore and surface cleaner, as long as it's wiped off and a higher viscosity oil is used on moving parts like normal gun oil.
@@GunSam I believe at least on S&W Armorer has said that Hoppe's #9 is mineral spirits with a perfume in it, maybe one or two other proprietary ingredients, but mostly mineral spirits.
@@GunSam I take it, then, that since you use CLP and Ballistol these days, that you have not seen any detriment to using all-in-ones? And yes, I guess I qualify as a Fud. ;)
Thanks be to your father-in-law for pointing out what a BAD LUBRICANT/Rust-proofer that WD-40 is! I used to use it for everything, but then saw a shovel blade sprayed heavily RUST OVERNIGHT!....................elsullo@@GunSam
Used the traditional Hoppe's #9 instead of CLP? Thanks for demonstrating cleaning technique. I would assume a GP100 is more involved in removing the cylinder, I think it requires a split blade screw driver and the cylinder and crane both have spring parts in them.
I used Hoppe's 9 for years. I always got the feeling that it was eating away at something, so I decided to go with an all in one cleaning oil instead. I used to take apart my SP101 all the time but I haven't owned it in some time to remember the process.
You can setup your bore brushes upwards, in the back. Oh, why not, we'll put a bunch more vertical brushes in the back like little trees so they aren't alone.
I keep thinking about a S&W Model 19 Classic. Only afraid of getting a blued revolver, and the finish would eventually look like trash from holster wear. Guess it's best to always go stainless.
Sam: if I remember correctly you have a Model 69 with the bead blasted stainless finish. Do you do anything different while cleaning that revolver to preserve that finish?
Scandium really isn't much different than regular aluminum alloy. Typically they are coated in either clear of black coatings. I would be gentle with brushes, use only nylon. You may want to use a solvent and then oil to reduce scrubbing. If it were me i'd just lube it up really good with Ballistol or CPL and scrub with a nylon brush, just do the best I can. Edit....I said CPL and not CLP lol. Here in MI our carry permits are called CPL's "concealed pistol license" so I do use that term a lot in forums.
My friend Joey was a Rhode Island Marshall. He bought all his firearms in stainless steel. He would take the grips off them and put them in the dishwasher to clean them. Then he would wipe them down and oil them.
TERRIBLE IDEA FOR REVOLVERS! Not all of the interior clockwork parts are stainless steel! You want rusty clockworks?.............................elsullo
@elsullo2 All his service guns were semi-automatic. He said he never had an issue in all the years he cleaned them that way. This was back in the 80's and 90's.
I've found stainless steel used on guns r nut hard as Molybdenum blue bbl guns, EZr to scratch. And remember. Stainless steel can rust if not cleaned n oiled. And, don't wear jewelry when handling a pistol or pristine gorgeous stock/grips on a pistol, rifle, or shotgun. No earrings or cow rings when handling the long guns either. I dink this video author knows it. Remember. For a man, if a woman, esp. ur wifee ask u why ur nut(not) wearing a ring, just say it cuts ur circulation. Enjoyed the video, Thx!
Yeah, but haven't found it anywhere for a year or two. I like it better because knowing it's less toxic, I spend more time on cleaning, just use excess Ballistol and elbow grease. With CLP I do hurry a bit more to wash my hands as I cannot wear rubber gloves and hold things properly.
Good job! (...but, I WAS "eyeballing" that "grip screw", when you set it down, LOOSE ON THE BENCH; rather than IN a wee container of some sort!!!). {I've lost a screw...ONCE.}
I haven't ever lost a screw myself. If I am doing a whole sideplate I put them in a cardboard template I made with holes, but grip screw or cylinder screw I don't do anything special with. I got no air vents on the floor where I clean them at lol
Depends on the use. I might say that for an average citizen, a good revolver takes away a lot of the things that can go wrong with a semi auto. Makes more sense in a lot of ways. For cops, a semi auto is way better for what they face. The problem is most citizens who carry think that it's daily commonplace for a normal citizen involved shooting to be John Wick/John McClain style, when that's just fantasy. Knowing you have six reliable shots trumps all that you have to do to make sure your semi auto runs right with hollow point ammo. I would say from talking to most people on RUclips, they run a couple boxes of FMJ through their pistols, 'confirm' how reliable it is then use some form of JHP in a +P to carry in the gun. I feel there's a lot that can go wrong with that type of routine.
I say, IMHO, that a .38 Special +P revolver is best. The .357 Mag simply kicks like a mule, except with VERY heavy guns, and hurts many peoples' hands! Their hand learns to expect pain and flinches when pulling the trigger, throwing off their aim. "Bullet placement trumps bullet power!" I carry a .32 H&R Magnum revolver for a precision aim, AND a .38 Special +P for power. Yes, both.........................elsullo
@@curly__3 i'm pretty sure it can still damage it. While logically it makes sense a softer metal cannot damage a harder metal, lead bullets can still penetrate mild steel. You do anything enough and it can cause wear.
@@curly__3 lol, ok a bullet made of lead can punch a hole through steel, you only have to mar the crown slightly at the point of departure to degrade accuracy.
@@GunSam They work but it takes more passes and is not as good as a brush on a rod for stubborn copper or lead fouling I soak the whole snake in number 9 and run it through and let it sit then run a cleane snake or pull patches through from the chamber end and light oil on final patch..
@@curly__3 if you knew anything about barrel construction you would know the crown is delicate and can be altered when you ram a cleaning rod in from the muzzle, I use rods with a guide on my rifles but from the bore to muzzle.
So a few quick questions from another revolver lover, did you ever use Birchwood Casey Lead Remover & Polishing Cloth for the front of the Cylinder, two are you using copper or brass brush and if it's copper where did you get it. I do that to my S&W 686+ & my Model 29 ever time I fire it at the range, they both look brand new like they've never been fired. Ya, I know, I am Nuts. LMFIAO
I have never used the cloths because when I really got into cleaning revolvers, it was a time in my life where I had one, one stainless revolver. Couldn't even afford to buy much ammo. So I came up with various methods over the years and found that one product like CLP or Ballistol is easier and simpler. The brushes are everywhere, basic Hoppe's brushes that are at all sports stores, like around me Dunham's has them, or whatever part of the country/type of chain stores wherever you are will have them.
The reason why I brought it up is because for $7.00 you get two 6"x9" cloths that work great and can be used over & over being cheaper than the CLP and making the face of the cylinder less prone to fouling in the future. Nice video. @@GunSam
I grew up in the 1980's and 1990's and picked up my gun cleaning methods from my dad, brother, uncles and friend's dads, father in law etc. They all basically did the same thing; they cleaned deer hunting rifles (rural Michigan) and all of them used Hoppe's NO.9 with a bore brush, then dried it out and followed up with Rem Oil or that orange container of Hoppe's oil. I used to do this method for years until someone told me "solvent, you got to be 100% sure you get it all off or it will eat, and eat, and eat, and eat away at your metal and ruin the gun". I have no idea if this is true, but it was enough for me to say, i'm just going with a non solvent option! And here I am.
Man thank you for keeping revolvers alive and being the greatest revolver channel out there your channel is very factual and precise also man get a gp100😂 lol
I want to make mention that I recorded this video a day ago with plans to slowly release ballistic tests and add more content like this due to being 'unmonetized" which is different than RUclips demonetization (weird issue I am having on the Adsense end), but since yesterday and today I have had someone (not RUclips/Patreon related) front me 3 months worth of testing supply funds so that I can keep on trucking with the same level and quality of content I been doing. I now plan to release videos every Tuesday and Friday of ballistic tests like I have been doing for years.
Hmmm ... No idea how that happened but hopefully not something about censoring firearm related channels
Why have they done this to you?
Why have they done this to you?
WTH, you just test ammo. SMH
That was Very Generous of That Person!!
It is interesting that everyone has a different ritual for cleaning. Two of my revolvers are blued and the third is black probably an alloy finish. My Grandfather taught me to clean the rifle and revolver in the 60s. He always used Mineral Spirits and Mineral Oil. Worked great. Today, I do use Ballistol or CLP along with #9 but I always (from habit) get the bore and cylinders wet with Mineral spirits before I use the Ballistol . I only use a nylon brush on my revolvers. Before I put them away, I have a piece of flannel impregnated with a bit of mineral oil to wipe down. Don't like the silicone cloths. k The Mineral Oil keeps the bluing looking good and on my old US Revolver - protects from rust. 😀 Thanks Sam
I like these behind the scenes videos, like the one of how you reuse the ballistic gel and this one.
Ballistol has been my go to for a while now and seems to work well.
I have posted in the past .. cleaned a New 629 3" left a tiny ball of cleaning rag under the star , the revolver acted odd & wouldn't fire . The ball had flattened & was not much larger than a few flakes of unburnt powder . Remember this when for no apperent reason odd things start to happen .
Great demonstration. 😊
This was again a wonderful, informative video. Thanks for taking the time to do this. I have used Mother's aluminum mag cleaner to get off some of the tough staining on the front of cylinders.
Thanks. I used to use Simonize chrome polish on my cylinder face which worked good, then as you see I have turtle wax brand which doesn't do all that well. I been meaning to get Mother's as it's been recommended to me for years, I just always end up brush cleaning my revolvers so I keep putting off trying it.
I have never stripped a revolver that much. But I see that makes it a lot easier. I would be afraid of goobering up the screws after awhile.
FANTASTIC video Sam!
Why?
Because it verifies that I am doing it properly - thank you.
Very good and useful vid! I appreciate all of the rambling comments---always a gem or two there! BUT, you did not open the side-plate to reveal the clockworks! I feel this is necessary at least once per year for a carried gun---it does get dirt inside! I once opened a nearly new, used "hammerless" S&W revolver and found it to be BONE DRY inside, no lubrication at all, with a big ball of lint in there! Many of the inside parts were NOT stainless! It only took a tiny dot of oil in a couple of moving points to REALLY slick up the trigger action. It would be very useful to show all of the less-experienced revolver users how to gently and safely open the side-plate and inspect the crucial interior workings............................elsullo
I have opened it up on videos before, just not here. And you are right, it's a once in a year thing so I felt no need to show it. I have honestly went several years with some of my revolvers without opening it up and when I do, it's fine. That is one reason I like Ballistol better than this CLP. When I would open it up, I could just spray it in there and it was like it had a drying effect all while it was lubing it, if that makes sense. Then I would just flip it, let it all drain out and dry as much as possible with Q-tips. I hate removing all the action parts as by the end of it I am on RUclips trying to remember how that damn rebound spring goes in or some other problem lol
A Wheeler gunsmithing screwdriver set has been one of my best investments.
Great video. I just switched to a 686 as I have an index finger problem and I seem to be able to pull the trigger on a revolver easier than my automatics. I really love my 686 and I really appreciate your channel and your nice calm honest way of presenting your information. Keep it up. I subscribed and I appreciate all your work. Jim
Yeah, I use the second joint swoop type pull on a lot of handguns I have. Seems to work.
Thanks, I will forward this along to a new revovler shooter.
Have you ever tried those lead removal cloths? Think it’s from Birchwood Casey. I cut a small section to remove the burn marks from the cylinders on the stainless revolvers. Works amazing
I have heard of them, but never tried them. My workaround is I basically never shoot lead ammo. It's rare for me. Even if I am wanting to do some high volume shooting, i'll go with plated or even XTP bullets and loads them myself to offset the cost. I hate lead ammo in general because of lead chunks that build up.
@@GunSam it just works great on the burn marks. I have used it, before I started shooting any lead
Great behind the scenes/maintenance video. 👍
Great video Sam, thank you!!!!
Glad there letting you thru blessings to all
Great video!
Thanks. It's just one man's method. Results may vary.
Pro tip: Never ever ever ever ever spray down your firearm with BrakeClean! It removes everything for sure. Everything including all the oil that has penetrated into the steel to provide vital lubrication. The cure to that mistake is a complete soak in light machine oil. Then you have to wipe that off. Then you can put a bit of CLP on everything and another wipe down.
Nice organization on the ammo!
A good cleaning is therapeutic for me. 😌
CLP is some good stuff been using it for years 👍😊.
Good video and thanks!
Watching you clean that revolver remined me of why I hate cleaning revolvers. I have spent countless hours scrubbing my revolvers. Cleaning my Glock is so much easier
I feel in some regards cleaning revolvers is easier, for the fact I know it's clean. With Glocks and other black semi autos, you can't see the grit and nasty stuff around all the parts in the polymer grip. Yes I can 'clean' a semi auto faster, but all I really did was clean the slide okay, mostly clean the barrel etc.
@@GunSam After using two Glock models for work, I can get them really clean
Instead of all-in-one cleaner and lubricant, have you tried separate, like mineral spirits and mineral oil you can buy at places like Home Depot?
I grew up with Fuds in the family, friend's dad's were Fuds and all of that. They rarely had handguns, but always, I mean always they had it down pact that you use Hoppe's number 9, and when you are done you used Hoppe's oil or Rem oil and that's just how it was. So I took what I knew growing up and for years did solvent and then oil. I never used mineral spirits, just the gun solvent and oils. Now I did learn many years ago from a father in law I had, that WD-40 makes a great all around bore and surface cleaner, as long as it's wiped off and a higher viscosity oil is used on moving parts like normal gun oil.
@@GunSam I believe at least on S&W Armorer has said that Hoppe's #9 is mineral spirits with a perfume in it, maybe one or two other proprietary ingredients, but mostly mineral spirits.
@@GunSam I take it, then, that since you use CLP and Ballistol these days, that you have not seen any detriment to using all-in-ones? And yes, I guess I qualify as a Fud. ;)
Thanks be to your father-in-law for pointing out what a BAD LUBRICANT/Rust-proofer that WD-40 is! I used to use it for everything, but then saw a shovel blade sprayed heavily RUST OVERNIGHT!....................elsullo@@GunSam
I am impressed that you got the carbon stain off the cylinder face.
Used the traditional Hoppe's #9 instead of CLP?
Thanks for demonstrating cleaning technique.
I would assume a GP100 is more involved in removing the cylinder, I think it requires a split blade screw driver and the cylinder and crane both have spring parts in them.
I used Hoppe's 9 for years. I always got the feeling that it was eating away at something, so I decided to go with an all in one cleaning oil instead. I used to take apart my SP101 all the time but I haven't owned it in some time to remember the process.
@@GunSam Evidently most gun cleaning solvents are mineral spirits.
Sam is the Bob Ross of revolvers.
You can setup your bore brushes upwards, in the back. Oh, why not, we'll put a bunch more vertical brushes in the back like little trees so they aren't alone.
@@GunSam 😂
I keep thinking about a S&W Model 19 Classic. Only afraid of getting a blued revolver, and the finish would eventually look like trash from holster wear. Guess it's best to always go stainless.
I use clp bore snake and gun scrubber nothing like a good cleaning. Oh and a toothbrush.
Sam: if I remember correctly you have a Model 69 with the bead blasted stainless finish. Do you do anything different while cleaning that revolver to preserve that finish?
I really need to get a gunsmithing screwdriver set for this because I can't clean this thoroughly right now
Is there anything not to use/do with scandium frame revolvers?
Scandium really isn't much different than regular aluminum alloy. Typically they are coated in either clear of black coatings. I would be gentle with brushes, use only nylon. You may want to use a solvent and then oil to reduce scrubbing. If it were me i'd just lube it up really good with Ballistol or CPL and scrub with a nylon brush, just do the best I can. Edit....I said CPL and not CLP lol. Here in MI our carry permits are called CPL's "concealed pistol license" so I do use that term a lot in forums.
@@GunSam Thank you. Good liuck and stay safe!
My friend Joey was a Rhode Island Marshall. He bought all his firearms in stainless steel. He would take the grips off them and put them in the dishwasher to clean them. Then he would wipe them down and oil them.
TERRIBLE IDEA FOR REVOLVERS! Not all of the interior clockwork parts are stainless steel! You want rusty clockworks?.............................elsullo
@elsullo2
All his service guns were semi-automatic. He said he never had an issue in all the years he cleaned them that way. This was back in the 80's and 90's.
I would use gloves whenever using chemicals . The less chemical soaking into the skin the Better .
What can be used to shine, polish a nickel plated weapon ?
Get a small cup or lid off a jar to put the small parts in so there are in one place
I've found stainless steel used on guns r nut hard as Molybdenum blue bbl guns, EZr
to scratch. And remember. Stainless steel can rust if not cleaned n oiled.
And, don't wear jewelry when handling a pistol or pristine gorgeous stock/grips on a pistol,
rifle, or shotgun. No earrings or cow rings when handling the long guns either. I dink this
video author knows it. Remember. For a man, if a woman, esp. ur wifee ask u why ur nut(not) wearing a ring,
just say it cuts ur circulation.
Enjoyed the video,
Thx!
67 K wow
Not entirely applicable in my case, since all my S&W revolvers save my 642 are blued; but I use Ballistol for everything.
Have you tried Ballistol?
3:18
Yeah, but haven't found it anywhere for a year or two. I like it better because knowing it's less toxic, I spend more time on cleaning, just use excess Ballistol and elbow grease. With CLP I do hurry a bit more to wash my hands as I cannot wear rubber gloves and hold things properly.
Good job! (...but, I WAS "eyeballing" that "grip screw", when you set it down, LOOSE ON THE BENCH; rather than IN a wee container of some sort!!!). {I've lost a screw...ONCE.}
I haven't ever lost a screw myself. If I am doing a whole sideplate I put them in a cardboard template I made with holes, but grip screw or cylinder screw I don't do anything special with. I got no air vents on the floor where I clean them at lol
@@GunSam I put the screws and other tiny parts in the cap from the spray can so I know where they are when it comes time to reassemble.
Would you still say the revolver is the better handgun? With 357 being the best cartridge in 2023?
Depends on the use. I might say that for an average citizen, a good revolver takes away a lot of the things that can go wrong with a semi auto. Makes more sense in a lot of ways. For cops, a semi auto is way better for what they face. The problem is most citizens who carry think that it's daily commonplace for a normal citizen involved shooting to be John Wick/John McClain style, when that's just fantasy. Knowing you have six reliable shots trumps all that you have to do to make sure your semi auto runs right with hollow point ammo. I would say from talking to most people on RUclips, they run a couple boxes of FMJ through their pistols, 'confirm' how reliable it is then use some form of JHP in a +P to carry in the gun. I feel there's a lot that can go wrong with that type of routine.
I say, IMHO, that a .38 Special +P revolver is best. The .357 Mag simply kicks like a mule, except with VERY heavy guns, and hurts many peoples' hands! Their hand learns to expect pain and flinches when pulling the trigger, throwing off their aim. "Bullet placement trumps bullet power!" I carry a .32 H&R Magnum revolver for a precision aim, AND a .38 Special +P for power. Yes, both.........................elsullo
Why do so many gun oils stink , causing game to smell you ? I got to using silicone spray in AK , slick & penetrates fast .
Bore Snake is way to go on barrel , stay away from muzzle crown with aluminum rods, only use a rod and brush on guns you can enter from chamber.
I have never tried on personally.
@@curly__3 i'm pretty sure it can still damage it. While logically it makes sense a softer metal cannot damage a harder metal, lead bullets can still penetrate mild steel. You do anything enough and it can cause wear.
@@curly__3 lol, ok a bullet made of lead can punch a hole through steel, you only have to mar the crown slightly at the point of departure to degrade accuracy.
@@GunSam They work but it takes more passes and is not as good as a brush on a rod for stubborn copper or lead fouling I soak the whole snake in number 9 and run it through and let it sit then run a cleane snake or pull patches through from the chamber end and light oil on final patch..
@@curly__3 if you knew anything about barrel construction you would know the crown is delicate and can be altered when you ram a cleaning rod in from the muzzle, I use rods with a guide on my rifles but from the bore to muzzle.
Atf will remove carbon right now! Gramps taught me that.
aS Arnolds Sons Metarex Polierwatte is the best
SCRUB BEFORE USING ANY LIQUID.
Um, no.
So a few quick questions from another revolver lover, did you ever use Birchwood Casey Lead Remover & Polishing Cloth for the front of the Cylinder, two are you using copper or brass brush and if it's copper where did you get it. I do that to my S&W 686+ & my Model 29 ever time I fire it at the range, they both look brand new like they've never been fired. Ya, I know, I am Nuts. LMFIAO
I have never used the cloths because when I really got into cleaning revolvers, it was a time in my life where I had one, one stainless revolver. Couldn't even afford to buy much ammo. So I came up with various methods over the years and found that one product like CLP or Ballistol is easier and simpler. The brushes are everywhere, basic Hoppe's brushes that are at all sports stores, like around me Dunham's has them, or whatever part of the country/type of chain stores wherever you are will have them.
The reason why I brought it up is because for $7.00 you get two 6"x9" cloths that work great and can be used over & over being cheaper than the CLP and making the face of the cylinder less prone to fouling in the future. Nice video. @@GunSam