The video is great. You showed every step, instead of just telling us what you did, which is good! And you utilized a variety of tools and demonstrated their use. You showed a lot of great techniques to make pieces achieve certain functions. Also, neat music!
I like the way you compensated for the dip in the throat plate on your table saw when cutting the sled for the headstock slide. Overall quite impressive project man. Very very good work.
Great job on both the lathe and the video. In response to those who don't know why anyone would spend the time building something like this have obviously built anything. Using something that you have built with your own hands is extremely satisfying, try it. Where does one find the time? Shut the football game off, put the fishing pole away and grab some tools. P.S. the music is fine. Thanks Mike.
Nice to see use of the world's finest glue spreader :-) As I am without a wood turning lathe at this present time this looks like an interesting and very creative way to go, thank you for the sharing and good fortune with the turning.
Well done! In case anyone uses this as a guide... when you assemble the two uprights with the bearings in them, it would be a good idea to have a shaft in there. That'll make sure everything is aligned.
Thank you for being efficient in your videography. So many others would have added an additional twenty minutes or more by showing the cutting our assembly in real time and fill that additional time with non words like uh. Plus the project is inspirational.
I read your instructable and followed your link here. Just wanted to say great job! The instructions were pretty well written and your video fills in any gaps. I may very well make one using your instructions. I'm even more impressed that your only fifteen. The care you took and the final look of the product were awesome. I hope you win the tool making contest.
Michael, here is a tip I learned from years of cabinet work. Sprinkle salt on your glue and the pieces won't slide when you clamp them. It doesn't take much, just enough to add a little grit to an otherwise slippery surface
Use a 1/16" (1.5 mm) notched trowel to spread the construction adhesive evenly with full coverage to both mating surfaces, and drive 2 finishing nails into either end of the pieces before glue-up and reinsert them after spreading the adhesive to align the pieces so that they don't shift while clamping.
Vraiment un super travail,je ne sais pas quel age vous avez,mais vous faites un sacré boulot,une pure merveille se tour à bois,si j'étais professeur je vous donne 20/20,vous êtes un surdoué de la menuiserie,continué comme ça vous irez loin.
Thanks. That head stock design solves several problems for a low budget guy like me. Not a far jump to use that to turn a belt grinder for knives. Belt speed might be an issue, but...worth a shot.
tienes todas las maquinas.. y fabricas un torno casero.. no seria mejor comprar uno de fabrica?? digo si espara hacer gran produccion de piezas ...o compraste todas las herramientas y maquinas para hacer el torno casero?? buen trabajo
I was watching the Slo Mo Guys before this,,,,what a rush!!! I just about died when you started hammering! Very cool vid and I can't wait to see more of the project.
Cool shot. Very music like. But if the tree perfectly, the drive and the mounting of the workpieces directly. Again to watch the process was very nice.
any chance you can put up the plans and list of parts needed? this looks like something i can build. also what is the longest piece you can turn on this lathe?
Looks like your lathe has a minimum speed of about 1700 rpm...Or do you have other speed control than pulley size. It's an interesting build, nice woodworking
Im making my own lathe as well. I have been using metal to make mine. The only problem Im seeing myself run into is how to connect the chuck to the shaft. Do you have any suggestions on a specific chuck? Also very inspiring watching you work on this project, im waiting for the next episode!
Pete Leo Ask someone with a machinist lathe to thread the end of the shaft, they'll be able to do it in a few minutes; Buy a threaded lathe chuck and a threaded insert to fit your shaft (or get your machinist to thread one to fit). Also ask them if they can bore an MT1 (or MT2 for larger spindles) taper on the spindle nose. You'll be glad to have that for fitting drive centers to the lathe. Take it from me, don't bother trying to make a chuck out of wood: I built a lathe chuck out of laminated plywood for my cast iron lathe, and there is just way too much flex in the wood for it to work. It is big and solid, holds the workpiece just fine, but the inherent flex between the threaded hole in the chuck and the jaws means the wood flies around like crazy, and is unturnable. I know plywood isn't the stiffest wood in the world, but after what I have seen, I can tell no wood will be stiff enough for single ended turning. I could see it working if the mounting to the spindle was by an enlarged faceplate adaptor or bowl adaptor, but at that point you are half way to the cost of a cheap 4 jaw chuck, and you'll get more satisfaction from one that works really well.
Pete Leo Also, if you're going to use a chuck, I highly suggest building the bearing casings at each end of the head stock as two parallel plates that you can fill between with concrete, as the off-axis torque will be much higher than turning between centers, and any runout in the spindle will be amplified by the length of extension out of the head stock and through the chuck. You don't want the walls of the headstock deflecting because of any imbalance in the chucked up wood.
I would suggest an ER32 or ER50 collet extender as the spindle. They can be as long as 200mm, so plenty of space for bearings. I have been researching this the past couple of days and it seems to me the lowest friction way to build a lathe headstock. A couple of Chinese tapered roller bearings at each end 25, 32, or 50mm ID or deep groove ball bearings the same ID as the ER extension shaft and a thrust bearing at the far end for shits and giggles. The deep groove ball bearings or tapered roller bearings by themselves should take care of lateral forces, but who knows, right? Et voila, an actual chuck on a shaft that is at least semi accurate. Plus you have the bonus of a through hole in the spindle. And it's cheap if you shop around. If there was a 5c extender like that, I'd probably go with it because you have the advantage of square and hex collets. But as far as I can tell, no such beast exists.
Michael Please tell me you have plans for sale on the lathe?? I wanted to make a lathe and was going to make one using a drill for the power and chuck, but this is so much nicer and motors are a dime a dozen on Craig's list. I want to make one before investing in a Variable speed big iron one. Can't wait for part 2. Soooo, how about those plans??? Thanks, ~ Dolly
I would like to try something simmilar in the near future. What kind of motor did you use for that? I have no idea how strong it should be and whats the recommended speed (rpm) for woodworking
I find it sad that people want to complain about music when you are watching a silent woodworking video ( no instructions audio) just turn off the sound and watch the video and spend your energy on learning something Michael is educating you on the steps he took to build a very interesting machine. Just so you understand you don't have to have this music when you build your Lathe.....
He's doing it the proper OSHA approved way, your talking about doing it the (I'm so good it'll never happen to me.......fuuuuuuuucccckkk!!! There goes my thumb way)
Wuxos31 if youve worked with power tool enough you realize the blades do some how jump at your hands ahaha, joking but in all seriousness there is always a off day where the way youve done it for years gets the better of you and bam mangled bodyparts ahaha
Muito bom seu video e muito boa ideia não falar nada, uma imagem vale por mil palavras....adorei porque não entendo bem o ingles e dificulta um pouco para entender, mas as imagens são maravilhosas. Parabens, espero fazer um igual ou tentar pelo menos. Tanks Michael.
Hey Michael, this video is awesome and you did a fantastic job on this lathe... If I may give you some tips that might make it even better... 3 years ago I made a treadle lathe that turned out great and if you're up for here's my suggestions; instead of using plain rollerblade bearings etc. you could actually get two pillow blocks from USA Bearings and Belts or VXB and utilize a 5/8" cold rolled steel rod... why 5/8 instead of what most folks use, 1/2"? Well, I found that if I used 5/8" not only would it be a little beefier but it opened up many more parts for me to make my lathe, namely the types of driving centers I could use on the headstock. I found out that someone sells some parts out there for old Shopsmith lathes that run on a solid 5/8" rod, this allowed me to buy a drive spur that fit over the spindle rod that hung out past the headstock AND I also found that someone made an adapter for the Shopsmith that would give you a 1" x 8tpi spindle and allowed me to use my Super Nova 2 chuck, which is really helpful and makes life easier... I used two 4 x 4 posts for my drive head and found that the combination of two self centering flange bearings that came with a sleeve that allowed me to tighten down the rod and also placing a thrust bearing in a hole in the left most part of the headstock/pillow block also helped with the radial forces from tightening up a piece between centers... I hope that might help some, let me know if everything I just said sounds like garbled garbage
+Aaron Thomas I built the same lathe, and all of the points you make, I have done. All the shopsmith accessories are great. I also found a drill adaptor for MT1 drills. It is 5/8" on the outside so I trimmed it a little and use it in my tailstock. I use an MT1 live center and other MT1 accessories. I'm still coming up with other mods that I'm going to change. I haven't purchased the chuck, but I am leaning toward the nova.
+Aaron Thomas - Good points Aaron. I was just thinking about buying a lathe but i'll make this instead. i may query you on the above stuff in a while as to how it relates. Thanks
I built mine to the plans in Shop Notes, but have modified it. Word of caution, the head and tail stock do not anchor or stay true when you tighten against the ways. I anchored the head stock solidly, it doesn't need to move anyway. The tail stock would lift whenever you tightened it up,enough to throw it off center. I put a slot in the ways with a 1/2" bolt so when I tighten, it stays put. I put a Nova 4 jaw chuck on it and a live center in the tail. It will also take a drill chuck. I'm in the process of modifying the tool rest at present time, it wasn't really easy to adjust, and could not be moved up and down. All in all it's been a blast to build, and it's fun to put my spin on it. If you're interested I'll try to send some photos of the mods.
crazyplayer1000 l ..the reason all metal lathes and most high end wood lathes have spindle direction control is 1) more control in lathe sanding/polising applications were sanding/polishing is done with and against the grain for better surface finish 2) easier usage and more control for left handed and right handed people without the need to tun the whole late 180 degrees ..(wooded lathes) 3) lathe reaming and drilling materials that require drills with lefthand flutes 4) inside a hole /bore ..tapper cutting ..shamfering ,groovering ..were by running the lather in reverse you will have better view what is happaning inside and also easier to apply coolent if cutting metals ....if turning wood on the inside bore ..eg a wooden cup of certain depth it will be much esier to place and hold the cutting tool if you reverse the lathe speed control however is used for diferant materials of diferant hardness to achive efective material removal , heat distribution, good surface finish and prolong tool life
Ok this is going to be weird but I want to make a sybian (sex machine) out of a little sewing machine motor Like what he has. Obviously I'll need to control the speed from a dial knob and I'd like to have it on a cord. That way I can control the speed myself without having to stop and interrupt the process. Can you tell me what I'd need to do this? Thanks, again I know it's weird but I'm a crafty gal and I'm good with power tools.
Assuming that this is a serius question.... first: what do you want the sex machine to do ?.. vibrate , go backand forward , sweril around ??? ... second : what position / orientation you want the machine to work in ??..... and third : you cant just take a motor out and start wireing wires and controls to it without knowing how to do it safely .. especialy if it is an AC motor .. AC motor has to be Earthed , conductors have to be properly insulated....ect Also the mecanical moving system has to be designed and calibrated in such a way as not to cause impact demage and harm to the body...
Awesome build! I want to do one. I'm curious- Why did you put the headstock on a sliding base? If the motor is going to be stationary, couldn't you anchor the headstock and just slide the tailstock??
buen aporte michael te agradeciese si te es posible me mandes las medidas de tu proyecto minitorno, por la atención brindada a este comentario GRACIAS.
bom dia amigo , gostaria de saber se o motor de tanquinho ou de maquina de lavar roupa dá para fazer um torno para tornear pequenas peças de madeira ,um abraço.
7:48- used to have that saw- I had to level out the plate to keep small pieces like that changing position on me, nearly causing kickback numerous times. Ps- awesome lathe
Снято классно. Очень музыкальное сопровождение понравилось. Но если по дереву безукоризненно, то по приводу и креплению заготовок посредственно. Повторюсь смотреть на процесс было очень приятно.
Dragonspeaks the spindle has noticeable run-out and it has the wrong bearings. it'll chatter like hell. it'd be good for casting mould ideas. you might want to check out the gingery lathe
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
There are those that Do, those that Don't and those that Can't. You Sir are a Doer! Excellent Job!!
The video is great. You showed every step, instead of just telling us what you did, which is good! And you utilized a variety of tools and demonstrated their use. You showed a lot of great techniques to make pieces achieve certain functions. Also, neat music!
I like the way you compensated for the dip in the throat plate on your table saw when cutting the sled for the headstock slide. Overall quite impressive project man. Very very good work.
Great job on both the lathe and the video. In response to those who don't know why anyone would spend the time building something like this have obviously built anything. Using something that you have built with your own hands is extremely satisfying, try it. Where does one find the time? Shut the football game off, put the fishing pole away and grab some tools. P.S. the music is fine. Thanks Mike.
Nice to see use of the world's finest glue spreader :-) As I am without a wood turning lathe at this present time this looks like an interesting and very creative way to go, thank you for the sharing and good fortune with the turning.
Peter Little
b
Well done! In case anyone uses this as a guide... when you assemble the two uprights with the bearings in them, it would be a good idea to have a shaft in there. That'll make sure everything is aligned.
That's what I'd like to know more about. The shaft and pulleys. Do the pulleys have to be keyed or slotted to lock onto the shaft?
Just what I was thinking. Better alignment of bearings.
Thank you for being efficient in your videography. So many others would have added an additional twenty minutes or more by showing the cutting our assembly in real time and fill that additional time with non words like uh.
Plus the project is inspirational.
I read your instructable and followed your link here. Just wanted to say great job! The instructions were pretty well written and your video fills in any gaps. I may very well make one using your instructions.
I'm even more impressed that your only fifteen. The care you took and the final look of the product were awesome. I hope you win the tool making contest.
That Guy
Where do you find the instructables?
That Guy
BBCode TÁ te respondo
Michael, here is a tip I learned from years of cabinet work. Sprinkle salt on your glue and the pieces won't slide when you clamp them. It doesn't take much, just enough to add a little grit to an otherwise slippery surface
Use a 1/16" (1.5 mm) notched trowel to spread the construction adhesive evenly with full coverage to both mating surfaces, and drive 2 finishing nails into either end of the pieces before glue-up and reinsert them after spreading the adhesive to align the pieces so that they don't shift while clamping.
Vraiment un super travail,je ne sais pas quel age vous avez,mais vous faites un sacré boulot,une pure merveille se tour à bois,si j'étais professeur je vous donne 20/20,vous êtes un surdoué de la menuiserie,continué comme ça vous irez loin.
Thanks. That head stock design solves several problems for a low budget guy like me. Not a far jump to use that to turn a belt grinder for knives. Belt speed might be an issue, but...worth a shot.
tienes todas las maquinas.. y fabricas un torno casero.. no seria mejor comprar uno de fabrica?? digo si espara hacer gran produccion de piezas ...o compraste todas las herramientas y maquinas para hacer el torno casero?? buen trabajo
Watch the 3 vedeos 3 times. Excellent. Can't find any dimension though. Have any plans?
A homemade lathe built with wood and basic tools. Genius!
Very excellent! I build my own stuff too. People ask me why I don't just go buy it and I say "What? And miss out on all the fun building it myself?"
I was watching the Slo Mo Guys before this,,,,what a rush!!! I just about died when you started hammering! Very cool vid and I can't wait to see more of the project.
Cool shot. Very music like. But if the tree perfectly, the drive and the mounting of the workpieces directly. Again to watch the process was very nice.
Nice video Michael are there pdf or other kind of step by step guide?
any chance you can put up the plans and list of parts needed? this looks like something i can build. also what is the longest piece you can turn on this lathe?
Are those green handle tools you're using with the saw custom? They are a great idea if they are.
Looks like your lathe has a minimum speed of about 1700 rpm...Or do you have other speed control than pulley size. It's an interesting build, nice woodworking
walter mccue
How do you choose which glue to use for different parts of your lathe? Awesome craftsmanship, Btw.
Strewth. That is a variety of bloody clamps. 🇦🇺👍
Hey, King of Glue ! ... Very good job. Congratulations !
Z
Im making my own lathe as well. I have been using metal to make mine. The only problem Im seeing myself run into is how to connect the chuck to the shaft. Do you have any suggestions on a specific chuck? Also very inspiring watching you work on this project, im waiting for the next episode!
Pete Leo Ask someone with a machinist lathe to thread the end of the shaft, they'll be able to do it in a few minutes; Buy a threaded lathe chuck and a threaded insert to fit your shaft (or get your machinist to thread one to fit). Also ask them if they can bore an MT1 (or MT2 for larger spindles) taper on the spindle nose. You'll be glad to have that for fitting drive centers to the lathe.
Take it from me, don't bother trying to make a chuck out of wood:
I built a lathe chuck out of laminated plywood for my cast iron lathe, and there is just way too much flex in the wood for it to work. It is big and solid, holds the workpiece just fine, but the inherent flex between the threaded hole in the chuck and the jaws means the wood flies around like crazy, and is unturnable. I know plywood isn't the stiffest wood in the world, but after what I have seen, I can tell no wood will be stiff enough for single ended turning.
I could see it working if the mounting to the spindle was by an enlarged faceplate adaptor or bowl adaptor, but at that point you are half way to the cost of a cheap 4 jaw chuck, and you'll get more satisfaction from one that works really well.
Pete Leo Also, if you're going to use a chuck, I highly suggest building the bearing casings at each end of the head stock as two parallel plates that you can fill between with concrete, as the off-axis torque will be much higher than turning between centers, and any runout in the spindle will be amplified by the length of extension out of the head stock and through the chuck. You don't want the walls of the headstock deflecting because of any imbalance in the chucked up wood.
puddingpimp
Hey great project but what did U use to stick the nuts and metal stuff to the wood
epoxy
Awesome. It's too bad some people have to find something - anything - to criticize.
The band is required ,,, because not only the engine and accessories are put?
nice job have you got plans?
Wonderful work, my friend and hope more great works because you are wonderful
Simply great, creativity and inspiration, and I feel, a very functional tool thanks for sharing, and keep that good work going. :)
olá amigo quantos kw tem esse motor
Hello Michael, What h.p. motor did you install on this lathe? Was it adequate? Thank you.
I would suggest an ER32 or ER50 collet extender as the spindle. They can be as long as 200mm, so plenty of space for bearings. I have been researching this the past couple of days and it seems to me the lowest friction way to build a lathe headstock. A couple of Chinese tapered roller bearings at each end 25, 32, or 50mm ID or deep groove ball bearings the same ID as the ER extension shaft and a thrust bearing at the far end for shits and giggles. The deep groove ball bearings or tapered roller bearings by themselves should take care of lateral forces, but who knows, right?
Et voila, an actual chuck on a shaft that is at least semi accurate.
Plus you have the bonus of a through hole in the spindle.
And it's cheap if you shop around.
If there was a 5c extender like that, I'd probably go with it because you have the advantage of square and hex collets. But as far as I can tell, no such beast exists.
What type of glue did you used?
Michael
Please tell me you have plans for sale on the lathe?? I wanted to make a lathe and was going to make one using a drill for the power and chuck, but this is so much nicer and motors are a dime a dozen on Craig's list. I want to make one before investing in a Variable speed big iron one. Can't wait for part 2. Soooo, how about those plans??? Thanks, ~ Dolly
Very nice work. I am building the same thing from the ShopNotes...
Do you have any plans and material list and cutting list for this wood lathe?
I would like to try something simmilar in the near future. What kind of motor did you use for that? I have no idea how strong it should be and whats the recommended speed (rpm) for woodworking
Me gustaría un desglose de los cortes de terciado con sus medidas y el espesor recomendado, muchas gracias
That was a Great Video. You sure know how to cut wood. Thanks for sharing.
I find it sad that people want to complain about music when you are watching a silent woodworking video ( no instructions audio) just turn off the sound and watch the video and spend your energy on learning something Michael is educating you on the steps he took to build a very interesting machine. Just so you understand you don't have to have this music when you build your Lathe.....
Very nice lathe!
I applaud home made remedies...this is a very nice build..well done, and great workmanship..
How much rpm does the motor have and what can it cost?
Good vid, but why u using those sticks when cutting? Its not like blade would jump on your hands, just keep them steady..
He's doing it the proper OSHA approved way, your talking about doing it the (I'm so good it'll never happen to me.......fuuuuuuuucccckkk!!! There goes my thumb way)
nevermind
Wuxos31 if youve worked with power tool enough you realize the blades do some how jump at your hands ahaha, joking but in all seriousness there is always a off day where the way youve done it for years gets the better of you and bam mangled bodyparts ahaha
yeah, work with power tools long enough and maybe one day you sneeze or look away for just a half second and ...
yeah, work with power tools long enough and maybe one day you sneeze or look away for just a half second and ...
Do you have plans I can get for your lathe bulld?
Savage video man! Why would people not like this? Serious amount of work in making it! Hmmm
what do you call that paste you are using sir?
Very well made video, why all the thumbs down?
Muito bom seu video e muito boa ideia não falar nada, uma imagem vale por mil palavras....adorei porque não entendo bem o ingles e dificulta um pouco para entender, mas as imagens são maravilhosas. Parabens, espero fazer um igual ou tentar pelo menos. Tanks Michael.
K
Todos los youtubers deberian resumir en un solo video. Muchas veces se pierde la segunda parte etc. Has otro video resumido. Porfabor
Nice build but there is a reason lathes are made of metal. Good luck on your rebuild of the bearing block.
Hey Michael, this video is awesome and you did a fantastic job on this lathe... If I may give you some tips that might make it even better... 3 years ago I made a treadle lathe that turned out great and if you're up for here's my suggestions; instead of using plain rollerblade bearings etc. you could actually get two pillow blocks from USA Bearings and Belts or VXB and utilize a 5/8" cold rolled steel rod... why 5/8 instead of what most folks use, 1/2"? Well, I found that if I used 5/8" not only would it be a little beefier but it opened up many more parts for me to make my lathe, namely the types of driving centers I could use on the headstock. I found out that someone sells some parts out there for old Shopsmith lathes that run on a solid 5/8" rod, this allowed me to buy a drive spur that fit over the spindle rod that hung out past the headstock AND I also found that someone made an adapter for the Shopsmith that would give you a 1" x 8tpi spindle and allowed me to use my Super Nova 2 chuck, which is really helpful and makes life easier... I used two 4 x 4 posts for my drive head and found that the combination of two self centering flange bearings that came with a sleeve that allowed me to tighten down the rod and also placing a thrust bearing in a hole in the left most part of the headstock/pillow block also helped with the radial forces from tightening up a piece between centers... I hope that might help some, let me know if everything I just said sounds like garbled garbage
+Aaron Thomas I built the same lathe, and all of the points you make, I have done. All the shopsmith accessories are great. I also found a drill adaptor for MT1 drills. It is 5/8" on the outside so I trimmed it a little and use it in my tailstock. I use an MT1 live center and other MT1 accessories. I'm still coming up with other mods that I'm going to change. I haven't purchased the chuck, but I am leaning toward the nova.
That is awesome, I would love to see more of your lathe..
If you have facebook, I have a couple of pics on a group called Home Workshop. I appreciate your interest.
+Aaron Thomas - Good points Aaron. I was just thinking about buying a lathe but i'll make this instead. i may query you on the above stuff in a while as to how it relates. Thanks
I built mine to the plans in Shop Notes, but have modified it. Word of caution, the head and tail stock do not anchor or stay true when you tighten against the ways. I anchored the head stock solidly, it doesn't need to move anyway. The tail stock would lift whenever you tightened it up,enough to throw it off center. I put a slot in the ways with a 1/2" bolt so when I tighten, it stays put. I put a Nova 4 jaw chuck on it and a live center in the tail. It will also take a drill chuck. I'm in the process of modifying the tool rest at present time, it wasn't really easy to adjust, and could not be moved up and down. All in all it's been a blast to build, and it's fun to put my spin on it. If you're interested I'll try to send some photos of the mods.
I am not perfect in carpentry, may I ask you what kind of glue(s) did you use to connect pieces of wood to each other? Thanks
Elmers wood glue, hahahahaha
variable resistor would be nice to change the motors speed and a " H" bridge circuit to change the direction of motor
+mehotep atlas It's a lathe. How would you use 2 directions? to make it less safe?
crazyplayer1000 l ..the reason all metal lathes and most high end wood lathes have spindle direction control is
1) more control in lathe sanding/polising applications were sanding/polishing is done with and against the grain for better surface finish
2) easier usage and more control for left handed and right handed people without the need to tun the whole late 180 degrees ..(wooded lathes)
3) lathe reaming and drilling materials that require drills with lefthand flutes
4) inside a hole /bore ..tapper cutting ..shamfering ,groovering ..were by running the lather in reverse you will have better view what is happaning inside and also easier to apply coolent if cutting metals ....if turning wood on the inside bore ..eg a wooden cup of certain depth it will be much esier to place and hold the cutting tool if you reverse the lathe
speed control however is used for diferant materials of diferant hardness to achive efective material removal , heat distribution, good surface finish and prolong tool life
Ok this is going to be weird but I want to make a sybian (sex machine) out of a little sewing machine motor Like what he has. Obviously I'll need to control the speed from a dial knob and I'd like to have it on a cord. That way I can control the speed myself without having to stop and interrupt the process. Can you tell me what I'd need to do this? Thanks, again I know it's weird but I'm a crafty gal and I'm good with power tools.
Assuming that this is a serius question....
first: what do you want the sex machine to do ?.. vibrate , go backand forward , sweril around ??? ...
second : what position / orientation you want the machine to work in ??.....
and third : you cant just take a motor out and start wireing wires and controls to it without knowing how to do it safely .. especialy if it is an AC motor .. AC motor has to be Earthed , conductors have to be properly insulated....ect
Also the mecanical moving system has to be designed and calibrated in such a way as not to cause impact demage and harm to the body...
ABSOLUTELY INCREDIBLE! Congratulations!
is this the homemade lathe plan that is in ShopNotes issue 73?
do you have plans for it or did you read it from a magazine
Great video, would it be possible to know the specs on the motor used? Thanks!
Im going with a treadmill motor.. sounds like an airliner starting its engines!
como puedo solicitar las medidas o planos para realizar el proyecto y si no es mucho pedir en español gracias
Nice work!
Can you post a materials list?
What is the link to buy the bearings?
Awesome build! I want to do one. I'm curious- Why did you put the headstock on a sliding base? If the motor is going to be stationary, couldn't you anchor the headstock and just slide the tailstock??
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Fico feliz com video como este!!
Parabéns e fica com Deus!!
great and neat job
buen aporte michael te agradeciese si te es posible me mandes las medidas de tu proyecto minitorno, por la atención brindada a este comentario GRACIAS.
Great video super Job Mike.Do you have any plans drawn up for this unit.Thanks Joe D
What kind of glue is that? The one you used with the caulking gun?
bom dia amigo , gostaria de saber se o motor de tanquinho ou de maquina de lavar roupa dá para fazer um torno para tornear pequenas peças de madeira ,um abraço.
классное видео , классная работа, даже показалось почувствовал запах дерева.
особенно 04:45 понравилось)
muy buenos laburos desde argentina te saluda ernesto
With such tools and such antediluvian equipment. I cried
This is a really cool way to make a Lathe i want to make one for my self is there plans for this project.
Where to obtain the program of this lathe
So cool, good job!
7:48- used to have that saw- I had to level out the plate to keep small pieces like that changing position on me, nearly causing kickback numerous times.
Ps- awesome lathe
pero q se supone q es??? aparte de ser un motor con polea y regulable???
what kind of glue is that
Nice project. Looks too much difficult. Thanks
Wow!! This is damn impressive.. do you have plans you can draw up or link to? I need this in my life NAOW!
I'd like the drawings or blue prints as well
Grasias por presentar estos videos asi unos aprenden me da gusto que agan esto grasias
Good job Bud I watched all 3 videos
It's fun to build stuff it shows in your work.
good job :) , what did you used as shaft for pulley ?
Fantastic! Loved this vid
Снято классно. Очень музыкальное сопровождение понравилось. Но если по дереву безукоризненно, то по приводу и креплению заготовок посредственно. Повторюсь смотреть на процесс было очень приятно.
fantástico. Well done
amigo usted tiene planos de este torno? los puede compartir?
friend you have plans for this round ? They can be shared ?
is this a lathe that can be used with metal?
***** Thanks. I am gonna build it now. I do a lot of metalworking, So that'd be useful, As I can't afford my own lathe
Dragonspeaks the spindle has noticeable run-out and it has the wrong bearings. it'll chatter like hell. it'd be good for casting mould ideas. you might want to check out the gingery lathe
jonnoMoto okay. thanks.
jonnoMoto
Hello, where can I find drawings on the lathe.
shop notes 73 or 77
Daniel Audettyye
genirator
Jakub Hlaváč b by LM MN
Jakub Hlaváč j7
Excellent.
Great video. Some cool ideas. Suggest turning the sound off though.
This video is a perfect example showing that you can't have too many clamps.
where can I get the plans for the lathe?
shopnotes issue 73
hi. do you may be have blue prints for this. Thanks.
shopnotes issue 73
Gostei demais.... Adoro assistir esse tipo de vídeo...
Obrigado por ter postado.
Três Barras SC. Brasil.
Wilian Rodrigues
Good Job, well done
Nice, but gluing the headstock to its saddle piece seemed a bit hasty, as you'd want them as perfectly aligned as possible.
v
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