You might want to verify if the headunit EQ will allow clipping. I have a previous generation Joying and I can boost any EQ band. As the volume level increases it will only allow that boosted band to output a certain voltage. So the amount of boost decreases as volume increases. It is a nice feature in that it prevents clipping. Of course, your generation HU is quite different with different software. Still, I'd verify it.
Will you be putting your helix DSP back in anytime soon? Now that I have a mic, and have been playing with degree in the time delay SW, I'm learning to make mine sound so much better!!! Thanks to your channel, I'm understanding what I'm seeing. 👍🏼👍🏼
Soon? No. With UK weather everything takes much longer than I expect. It will go in eventually. I just want to deaden the floor before installing DSP and amps.
In my experience for a 2 way system with speakers low in the doors it is way better to measure no only around the head area but also across the whole width of the car. Because not every reflection occuring on the mic will be acoustically perceived as a dip or peak. What you hear in a small room is a mixture of direct and indirect sound. So just move your mic in a line around your ears ..standard mmm...AND move it to the passenger headrest. Do it slowly and repeat multiple times.
The space around the head is to small to effectively remove the the non acousticslly perceived peaks and dips in the measured response. Especially in the lower frequency range where the wavelenghts are longer. Not everything you see on the freq resp chart is audible and in my experience measuring over a wider space cancels out the errors that only exist in a small part of the room. Also remember that our hearing perception is not only amplitude but also time domain. That means a cancellation via a reflection is getting less relevant the later the reflection is from the direct sound. A rta does not measure the timedomain
I would tend to disagree with that. We are measuring around the head. Because that is where the sound is. And we are correcting the response only there as well. When you measure on the passenger side you have extra data that is not useful. A null.or a peak at the passenger side does not affect the response on the driver side. Don't forget that everything that I am showing is only objective data manipulation. After that comes corrections by ear. I never show that because it's almost impossible to capture that on a video. RTA is not the last step.
Hey love your channel! It's very informative. Was just wondering if a de-pinning tool would have made the speaker connection easier for you? Unless you were gonna cut the harness eventually?
I have thought about trying something like this with my next sports car. Either midbass and wideband off the head unit, or midbass and coaxial with passive crossover.
Raw Cat did you consider using the passive crossovers just to see what the results might have been? Way back in the day I had a set of Infnity kappa perfects which included a 4th order LR passive network which was pretty uncommon. They surprisingly worked well or as well as anything could being passively filtered and in those times (2001) of course two ways were 90% of all setups with the mid in the lower door and the tweeter somewhere on the upper door.
I did this with Status 3way. I used passives and then went active. In those videos I showed massive problems arising with using passive crossovers and inability to time align causing massive nulls in the response. I jever encounteres a 4th order passibes in car audio🤷
I'm looking at the audio one wideband 3". I am thinking of wanting to do 2 way, midbass in door then wideband on pillars. How would you recommend the audio one, I saw you did a video on them. I mostly listen to 90s rock. Also, have you listen to any Steg widebands? If so how would you rate them?
Skipped through real quick. Are -12 db slopes (invert tweets) not an option? Or at minimum BU -24 targets.. I'd be surprised if you could just jump in with typical LR24. Or typical anything trying to tune this.
It would be tough for tweeters. Now they are at 2.2kHz 24dB, making it 12dB they would struggle. Better midrange would help, as the C6 is more of a midbass that doesn't play high.
@@RAW-CAt I think its worth a shot if you're able to. Even for fun.. I'm overlaying -12 and -24 and looking at it, It doesn't worry me as much as I thought it would. Remember Andy's article on crossovers and the "knee" here..
Awesome video. If you were to go without proper DSP, would you rather a high quality traditional head unit with basic eq or better eq, but more questionable quality in one of these android units? (If adding separate amplifier)
Well, the quality of the Android head units that I have is not questionable. I never had any problems with them🤷 I will always take android especially with digital outputs.
@@RAW-CAtnot sure if I ever seen this covered, but if installing midbass in doors, would crossing them over to sub at 100 instead of 80 help things? Or would need to do a frequency test to determine, can't assume anything
@@RAW-CAt Probably both. If the mids are in door panels blasting at the feet, naturally they won't work very well. Best option would be to use a wide range on the a-frame that goes down to 100-200hz and then cut to the midbass. Of course that makes super high sound pressures challenging but that's another story.
Thank you for saying it takes a lot of time, sometimes i see a 10min video of a full install and i think it can be done in one afternoon 😅
You might want to verify if the headunit EQ will allow clipping. I have a previous generation Joying and I can boost any EQ band. As the volume level increases it will only allow that boosted band to output a certain voltage. So the amount of boost decreases as volume increases.
It is a nice feature in that it prevents clipping. Of course, your generation HU is quite different with different software. Still, I'd verify it.
Will you be putting your helix DSP back in anytime soon? Now that I have a mic, and have been playing with degree in the time delay SW, I'm learning to make mine sound so much better!!! Thanks to your channel, I'm understanding what I'm seeing. 👍🏼👍🏼
Soon? No. With UK weather everything takes much longer than I expect. It will go in eventually. I just want to deaden the floor before installing DSP and amps.
In my experience for a 2 way system with speakers low in the doors it is way better to measure no only around the head area but also across the whole width of the car. Because not every reflection occuring on the mic will be acoustically perceived as a dip or peak. What you hear in a small room is a mixture of direct and indirect sound. So just move your mic in a line around your ears ..standard mmm...AND move it to the passenger headrest. Do it slowly and repeat multiple times.
Why wanna measure the passenger headrest when your ears arent there?
The space around the head is to small to effectively remove the the non acousticslly perceived peaks and dips in the measured response. Especially in the lower frequency range where the wavelenghts are longer. Not everything you see on the freq resp chart is audible and in my experience measuring over a wider space cancels out the errors that only exist in a small part of the room. Also remember that our hearing perception is not only amplitude but also time domain. That means a cancellation via a reflection is getting less relevant the later the reflection is from the direct sound. A rta does not measure the timedomain
I would tend to disagree with that. We are measuring around the head. Because that is where the sound is. And we are correcting the response only there as well. When you measure on the passenger side you have extra data that is not useful. A null.or a peak at the passenger side does not affect the response on the driver side. Don't forget that everything that I am showing is only objective data manipulation. After that comes corrections by ear. I never show that because it's almost impossible to capture that on a video. RTA is not the last step.
Raw cat the unit has alittle bit more volume control in the advanced factory setting
I know, but then it will clip. It's fine for the time being.
@RAW-CAt ah..cool
What about a tangband full range 3inch driver that plays down to 500Hz instead of the musway, maybe even 400Hz.
Hey love your channel! It's very informative. Was just wondering if a de-pinning tool would have made the speaker connection easier for you? Unless you were gonna cut the harness eventually?
It's a throw away harness. I might need connections to the rear speakers later on, so it's good to have wires ready for crimping.
Legless passengers only!
Chop chop😂😂😂
remove your shoes and set up pls xD
I have thought about trying something like this with my next sports car. Either midbass and wideband off the head unit, or midbass and coaxial with passive crossover.
Raw Cat did you consider using the passive crossovers just to see what the results might have been? Way back in the day I had a set of Infnity kappa perfects which included a 4th order LR passive network which was pretty uncommon. They surprisingly worked well or as well as anything could being passively filtered and in those times (2001) of course two ways were 90% of all setups with the mid in the lower door and the tweeter somewhere on the upper door.
I did this with Status 3way. I used passives and then went active. In those videos I showed massive problems arising with using passive crossovers and inability to time align causing massive nulls in the response. I jever encounteres a 4th order passibes in car audio🤷
Is there a reason why you used 1/48 smoothing for some and no smoothing for others AFTER measuring to check/adjust the frequency response?
Everything is 1/48th. No smoothing is the same - 1/48th. Rew shows "no smoothing" if you apply some and then want to revert back. But it's the same.
@ Ok I understand. Excellent video again 👍
I thought musway was just cheap chinese stuff but I am interested if they are actually good.
I'm looking at the audio one wideband 3". I am thinking of wanting to do 2 way, midbass in door then wideband on pillars.
How would you recommend the audio one, I saw you did a video on them. I mostly listen to 90s rock.
Also, have you listen to any Steg widebands? If so how would you rate them?
Skipped through real quick. Are -12 db slopes (invert tweets) not an option? Or at minimum BU -24 targets.. I'd be surprised if you could just jump in with typical LR24. Or typical anything trying to tune this.
It would be tough for tweeters. Now they are at 2.2kHz 24dB, making it 12dB they would struggle. Better midrange would help, as the C6 is more of a midbass that doesn't play high.
@@RAW-CAt I think its worth a shot if you're able to. Even for fun.. I'm overlaying -12 and -24 and looking at it, It doesn't worry me as much as I thought it would. Remember Andy's article on crossovers and the "knee" here..
Im doing two way network mode on my CR-V and for sub will be hyanka underseat sub!!!
Awesome video. If you were to go without proper DSP, would you rather a high quality traditional head unit with basic eq or better eq, but more questionable quality in one of these android units? (If adding separate amplifier)
Well, the quality of the Android head units that I have is not questionable. I never had any problems with them🤷 I will always take android especially with digital outputs.
@@RAW-CAtnot sure if I ever seen this covered, but if installing midbass in doors, would crossing them over to sub at 100 instead of 80 help things? Or would need to do a frequency test to determine, can't assume anything
Dude , do you have interest in Alpine MRX M240? I HAVE 1 FOR SELL
I have one, thank you🙃
I'd say dump that midrange to trash, it's one of the worst I've ever seen.
I think you mean the location and not the driver? Replacing the driver will not change the response.
@@RAW-CAt Probably both. If the mids are in door panels blasting at the feet, naturally they won't work very well. Best option would be to use a wide range on the a-frame that goes down to 100-200hz and then cut to the midbass. Of course that makes super high sound pressures challenging but that's another story.
@Munakas-wq3gp if tou would have watched any of my pervious videos, you would know that it's in the plans.
@@RAW-CAt nice
I mean, no one REALLY likes 400hz anyway so…. lol
😂😂😂