Lukas and I will be getting back to work on this soon! While a manual swap would be really fun, they are incredibly difficult on these cars :( hope you all enjoy! Excited to get this one back on the road
I'm sure you already know this, but since coolant seems to have mixed with the transmission fluid you will need a new radiator since the fluid cooler is integral to the radiator and would be the only way to get coolant to mix with the fluid. The thing that I find puzzling is I would think the transmission fluid would be under higher pressure than the coolant so you would see transmission fluid in the radiator and not the other way around. Perplexing for sure. Then again, when you turn the car off when it is hot you would have higher pressure in the radiator. What did the coolant look like when you drained it?
I second this. Definitely coincides with the whole front end collision theory. I'd be putting a new rad in it before it damages another good transmission.
I’ve read a good fix for this is a aftermarket trans cooler even without a front end collision they can crack internally and cause problems! A aftermarket external cooler would also help keep the temps a lot cooler especially in the 2.8 6spd
Idk how the pressures between the coolant and the transmission fluid work exactly but they will mix if there’s a leak in the coolers. First few production years of the second generation Nissan xterra (2005+) had this issue. The trans fluid in this video was definitely an emulsion
Considering the mains, rods and compression on the engine was still close to new spec after 200k on my well-beaten daily, you might take that engine and build a race toy out of it. The only weakness has always been that balance chain. Just figure out how to block off the balance chain, use an electric coolant pump, and see if you can get a reliable 450-500hp out it in a stripped down race 9-3.
Most likely it's the small oil cooler below the hydraulic steering pump. It's a liquid/liquid cooler and mine failed but I managed to catch it at the beginning. Oil was in the cooling circuit. In these types of failure, I bet the coolant only goes into the engine when it's off (pressure equalizes).
I'm guessing you've already installed the other engine but if not could you do a more in depth video on on how to do it? Unfortunately there are no detailed videos that i can find on how to remove and install a B207 engine :/ I also have plans to remove my B207 engine in the near future.
I'm working on an engine swap right now. I'm working on how to pick it up out of the car and I can see how you picked up on the passenger side engine mount, but I'm curious to know where you wrapped the chains for the driver side of the engine. One other question, is it better to pull the engine and transmission as one unit and swap the engine outside the car? Or leave the transmission in the car and just pull the engine?
I've got a 2008 Saab 93 XWD Aero in Titan Grey. Local mechanic messed up installing a propeller shaft, so I think the transmission is gone. Thinking of replacing the engine along with transmission to avoid the imminent timing chain issues. Does it makes sense to look for a B207 with 6 speed manual or stick with V6 and auto?
Lukas and I will be getting back to work on this soon! While a manual swap would be really fun, they are incredibly difficult on these cars :( hope you all enjoy! Excited to get this one back on the road
At least that swap went nicely, I'm sire Lukas is happy to he back to working on 9-3s instead of my broken 9000s
I just bought my first Saab today a 2003 9-3 sport sedan. 1.8t normally 150hp now it is about 200hp. I do have to work on the car but i am happy:)
I'm sure you already know this, but since coolant seems to have mixed with the transmission fluid you will need a new radiator since the fluid cooler is integral to the radiator and would be the only way to get coolant to mix with the fluid. The thing that I find puzzling is I would think the transmission fluid would be under higher pressure than the coolant so you would see transmission fluid in the radiator and not the other way around. Perplexing for sure. Then again, when you turn the car off when it is hot you would have higher pressure in the radiator. What did the coolant look like when you drained it?
I second this. Definitely coincides with the whole front end collision theory. I'd be putting a new rad in it before it damages another good transmission.
I’ve read a good fix for this is a aftermarket trans cooler even without a front end collision they can crack internally and cause problems! A aftermarket external cooler would also help keep the temps a lot cooler especially in the 2.8 6spd
Idk how the pressures between the coolant and the transmission fluid work exactly but they will mix if there’s a leak in the coolers. First few production years of the second generation Nissan xterra (2005+) had this issue. The trans fluid in this video was definitely an emulsion
I really like this co-op with Savingsaabs. Looking forward to future updates!
This is awesome seeing you & Lukas working together. 💪💪
Do a facelift on it, pretty easy and fun project
Save the saabs
You doing ok... thanks for the videos
Considering the mains, rods and compression on the engine was still close to new spec after 200k on my well-beaten daily, you might take that engine and build a race toy out of it. The only weakness has always been that balance chain.
Just figure out how to block off the balance chain, use an electric coolant pump, and see if you can get a reliable 450-500hp out it in a stripped down race 9-3.
Most likely it's the small oil cooler below the hydraulic steering pump. It's a liquid/liquid cooler and mine failed but I managed to catch it at the beginning. Oil was in the cooling circuit.
In these types of failure, I bet the coolant only goes into the engine when it's off (pressure equalizes).
Doing an engine swap on my 9-3 ttid. Old one was blown. A lot of work. Especially since I haven’t done anything like that Beofre 😂
I'm guessing you've already installed the other engine but if not could you do a more in depth video on on how to do it? Unfortunately there are no detailed videos that i can find on how to remove and install a B207 engine :/ I also have plans to remove my B207 engine in the near future.
Also take time and change the fuel pump, go for aftermarket one with more power and don't forget the annoying fuel level sensor.
I'm working on an engine swap right now. I'm working on how to pick it up out of the car and I can see how you picked up on the passenger side engine mount, but I'm curious to know where you wrapped the chains for the driver side of the engine. One other question, is it better to pull the engine and transmission as one unit and swap the engine outside the car? Or leave the transmission in the car and just pull the engine?
Had same issue, torque converter issue. Only way to fix that is to replace it.
I've got a 2008 Saab 93 XWD Aero in Titan Grey. Local mechanic messed up installing a propeller shaft, so I think the transmission is gone. Thinking of replacing the engine along with transmission to avoid the imminent timing chain issues. Does it makes sense to look for a B207 with 6 speed manual or stick with V6 and auto?
That'll be up and running well before we know it, and then we'll know it.
same method of removing the engin will work on 2008 saab 93 too?
Great video
I would do the timeing set water pump and chain and guide
@autoautopsy I have a 2006 Saab 9-3 2.0t 6 speed with a new transmission for sale
how much time total?
Hopefully the new drivetrain goes in just as quick 😅
Oh Man I could really use a space like this......12X30 would be real nice
I think that’s limp mode.