I am just starting a new DC 4×8 table. I grew up playing on a 4x8 mostly Tyco table with paper mache mountain in the early 70s. Now, making a similar layout but with much more detail. I have watched lots of your videos so now it is time to go back to your earlier work and see who your set up grew and let that be even more of an inspiration.
Thank you! :) Somehow, Märklin users seems to be somewhat more tolerant to the noice than DC (2-rail) rail roaders. Anyway. it´s easy to overcome most of it at a low cost, why I thought it was a good idea to make the video.
+marklinofsweden Definitely going to try this. Your remark on the M users being more tolerant on noise got me thinking. I think M users are more tolerant because most locomotives are made of metal and weigh 300 grams or so. When one such locomotive passes by on my still wooden underground I really like the sound as it's replicated through the wood. It emphasizes the weight of the loco in my mind. I think it reflects the Marklin quality or something like that. I'm still on a Proof of Concept table while designing my layout and I'm using 1cm thick sheets of MDF as a temporary underground. I think the high pitch is generated when thin layers of multiplex are used because I don't recognize this effect with my three 100cm by 120 cm sheets of MDF. The point I'm getting at is that when a real train passes by you don't hear the click clacks of ice skaters doing a ten 1000 meter laps, you'll hear the heavy sounds associated with metal wheels on metal rails. With many model railways often hear too much of the click clack sound... What I haven't tested is laying the track on a metal surface and making sure the metal rails are in contact with it ensuring a good hard CLANG when the train is moving over a point or so. Have you ever thought about a scenario like this? TFK
I used those interlocking rubber floor tiles like you would use in a basement or garage. They work great and it’s easy to drill through and screw track etc down.
Thanks for the video info.... I agree with your felt idea but I am still mystified how you secure the track to the baseboard? Maybe your set track just sits there... and the small mass of HO scale isn't move it around. I'm about to lay O scale Atlas flex track so it needs to be held down to control the curves and keep the track joined together... especially when an MTH Big Boy weighing 9kgs runs around the track. Only way to hold the flex track is to screw it down - which unfortunately links the track to the baseboard and transmits the noise. Other modellers use cork or foam and just lightly pin it down but... as soon as they ballast the track with gravel and white glue, the whole assembly become one - track, ballast and base board - which unfortunately again transmits the noise. The only solution I came up with, is as you suggested - A) minimise the actual track base ply and put sound-proofing insulation bats under the base boards (both your suggested) (insulation best done after wiring everything) and B) and don't glue down the ballast or apply ballast at all and C) don't tighten the track screws down tight , leave then backed off a fraction, so the track is located and can't move but the felt can do its job and dampen the noise transfer. Thanks again. P.S. Love the cup of tea expression!
3rd way to remove noise is to use Peco Streamline tracks. I switched from Fleischmann Profi to Peco actually to run RP25 wheels which Flschmann do not accept, but the switch was going from loud to absolute silence at the same time, an extra unforeseen bonus. Both run on plywood with cork top Try it!
I don't mind the noise as such, since none of my locomotives got sound decoders in them. Actually they are all analog, but I live in an apartment and I'm not sure about what my neighbours think, nor do I want to find out. ;)
Hi. Looks interesting but what about balasting of the tracks? If the felt will be soaked with glue there will be no more noise reduction or I am wrong?
Hi - thanks for your great videos! Q for this: You say, that you have tested 3 types, and then you show how to use the filt. But how is filt compared to the other 2? Is it the most Noise-reducing or the cheapest or the easiest to handle? And have you experimented with several layers, or only one? Keep up the good work! :-)
I concur. It dampens really well. I am using C track and has until now been using parquet underlay (green foam material). But Stopp seems much better. I am however not gluing it. I just use staples.
Good to hear you like it! (y) I still use it over my entire layout too. It works weel and I have no problwm related to "Stopp" at all. Only the benefits.
any recommendations on locomotive noise canceling material. I'm working with a antique new bright train and the hollow plastic resonates lot of the motor noise. I was thinking 3m gap filler tape could help but I'm not sure.
Hej Nice video. -I have a question for you. I'm currently using 2-wire tracks, but are considering the 3-wire alternative ie. the C-tracks due to the many electrical advantages and the robust design. But my biggest concern switching to Märklin is the increased sound created by tracks but also the pick-up shoes. The noise generated by the tracks can be attenuated as you show in your fine video, but what about the pick-up shoe noise?? How is the noise level of Märklin trains with pick-up shoe compared to 2-wire trains f.ex Roco trains? Med Venlig Hilsen Thomas Heder, Aalborg, Danmark
Hi that’s a great idea what material have you used directly underneath your track and have you pinned that to the wooden boards. I am just a beginner and I’m looking for as much information as I can. Many Thanks Robert
Hi. I have recently pulled down my layout and have started a new one (plan 17 from the Anlagen book of Marklin) I had a look at you idea of using IKea Felt. Today I went to the store and just had a look at it. Is it possible that yours is a lot thicker then mine? I have not measured it but it seems like a 1/4 or 1/2 a mm thick. The product is made in india. Has anything changed over the last 4 years?? Anyway I am in the process of watching all of your videos; there are great ! Kind regards Richard- Brisbane Australia
Thank you for the positive feedback! Yes, I have heard this from several different people that IKEA changed this item. The anti-slip mat I’m using is about 2mm thick. The product you have found sounds a whole lot thinner.. Maybe it does the trick anyway?
As for noise if your wife walks into the room and has a list of projects for you to do you can just speed up your trains and say whaaaaaat? I can’t hear you.
Hawe You checked if the collector on the motor needs to be celaned (wich can easily be done with at top and for example CRC contact cleaner) and the coals hawe good electric contact on both sides?
@@sheep1ewe Yeah, make sure you have good contract. Oil your engine regularly. And add booster if you have a large layout or a lot of engines and stuff drawing power.
@@informatimago Yes, most of my collection is tinplates or H0 from the 80s, most of them only needed a cleanup and minor fix whan i got them, i use sewingmachine oil, but i don't know if it is optimal or not.
The problem is because of the scale, the noise produced naturally is more high pitched than by a real 1:1 train. Some people record actual trains, and then reproduce the scene in HO to record a HO movie with realistic sound :-P
I take it this dude never work on the railroad I’m a retired train Engineer 35 year . Train make Noise it’s ok . I like to see someone make a real layout not this bull I have been seeing . I’ll be posting some real photo of me layout soon
The problem is because of the scale, the noise produced naturally is more high pitched than by a real 1:1 train. Some people record actual trains, and then reproduce the scene in HO to record a HO movie with realistic sound :-P
Hi Darren. I believe the felt I´m using in the video is no longer available from IKEA. However, there are similar rubber based materials available. I would say that a disadvantage with the felt is that it collpses under passing trains, lowering the point for the engine with about 1mm. I don´t have a problem with that, but I know that some people using Fleischmann Profi couplings suffers from this. So.. yes I still us it and find it being a good sound damping agent. For flex tracks I instead use Woodland scenics ST100 vinyl roadbed.
Nice Video, I always thought I was the only one who complained about how noisy peoples layouts were. Great Job !
I am just starting a new DC 4×8 table. I grew up playing on a 4x8 mostly Tyco table with paper mache mountain in the early 70s. Now, making a similar layout but with much more detail. I have watched lots of your videos so now it is time to go back to your earlier work and see who your set up grew and let that be even more of an inspiration.
Thank you! :) Somehow, Märklin users seems to be somewhat more tolerant to the noice than DC (2-rail) rail roaders. Anyway. it´s easy to overcome most of it at a low cost, why I thought it was a good idea to make the video.
+marklinofsweden Definitely going to try this. Your remark on the M users being more tolerant on noise got me thinking. I think M users are more tolerant because most locomotives are made of metal and weigh 300 grams or so. When one such locomotive passes by on my still wooden underground I really like the sound as it's replicated through the wood. It emphasizes the weight of the loco in my mind. I think it reflects the Marklin quality or something like that.
I'm still on a Proof of Concept table while designing my layout and I'm using 1cm thick sheets of MDF as a temporary underground. I think the high pitch is generated when thin layers of multiplex are used because I don't recognize this effect with my three 100cm by 120 cm sheets of MDF.
The point I'm getting at is that when a real train passes by you don't hear the click clacks of ice skaters doing a ten 1000 meter laps, you'll hear the heavy sounds associated with metal wheels on metal rails.
With many model railways often hear too much of the click clack sound...
What I haven't tested is laying the track on a metal surface and making sure the metal rails are in contact with it ensuring a good hard CLANG when the train is moving over a point or so.
Have you ever thought about a scenario like this?
TFK
I used those interlocking rubber floor tiles like you would use in a basement or garage. They work great and it’s easy to drill through and screw track etc down.
That answers my question, yes I can use felt. Many thanks.
Thanks for the video info.... I agree with your felt idea but I am still mystified how you secure the track to the baseboard? Maybe your set track just sits there... and the small mass of HO scale isn't move it around. I'm about to lay O scale Atlas flex track so it needs to be held down to control the curves and keep the track joined together... especially when an MTH Big Boy weighing 9kgs runs around the track. Only way to hold the flex track is to screw it down - which unfortunately links the track to the baseboard and transmits the noise. Other modellers use cork or foam and just lightly pin it down but... as soon as they ballast the track with gravel and white glue, the whole assembly become one - track, ballast and base board - which unfortunately again transmits the noise.
The only solution I came up with, is as you suggested - A) minimise the actual track base ply and put sound-proofing insulation bats under the base boards (both your suggested) (insulation best done after wiring everything) and B) and don't glue down the ballast or apply ballast at all and C) don't tighten the track screws down tight , leave then backed off a fraction, so the track is located and can't move but the felt can do its job and dampen the noise transfer.
Thanks again. P.S. Love the cup of tea expression!
3rd way to remove noise is to use Peco Streamline tracks. I switched from Fleischmann Profi to Peco actually to run RP25 wheels which Flschmann do not accept, but the switch was going from loud to absolute silence at the same time, an extra unforeseen bonus. Both run on plywood with cork top Try it!
Cannot use Peco Streamlinetracks on a Marklin AC layout...
Thanks for the great idea. It really makes a difference.
I don't mind the noise as such, since none of my locomotives got sound decoders in them. Actually they are all analog, but I live in an apartment and I'm not sure about what my neighbours think, nor do I want to find out. ;)
Ausgezeichnet Advice! Ich habe das gekauft, worked just like you explained. Super vielen Dank!
Hi. Looks interesting but what about balasting of the tracks? If the felt will be soaked with glue there will be no more noise reduction or I am wrong?
Hi - thanks for your great videos! Q for this: You say, that you have tested 3 types, and then you show how to use the filt. But how is filt compared to the other 2? Is it the most Noise-reducing or the cheapest or the easiest to handle? And have you experimented with several layers, or only one? Keep up the good work! :-)
I also wondered
I covered all my plywood with one inch styrofoam sheets it works great!
@I'LL BE BACK ! Plywood and felt burn just as well!
Model railroading "is" a fire risk no matter how you look at it.
I concur. It dampens really well. I am using C track and has until now been using parquet underlay (green foam material). But Stopp seems much better. I am however not gluing it. I just use staples.
Good to hear you like it! (y) I still use it over my entire layout too. It works weel and I have no problwm related to "Stopp" at all. Only the benefits.
If you use pre-ballasted track this is fine, but what if you lay your own ballast stuck down with glue?
Thank you so much for the information....love your channel....take care my friend....
Do you find felt works better than cork, rubber, or foam by way of noice reduction?
any recommendations on locomotive noise canceling material.
I'm working with a antique new bright train and the hollow plastic resonates lot of the motor noise.
I was thinking 3m gap filler tape could help but I'm not sure.
Great idea. Would it work under cork? So you have your track on cork, than the cork on the underlay. Great videos.
Hej
Nice video. -I have a question for you. I'm currently using 2-wire tracks, but are considering the 3-wire alternative ie. the C-tracks due to the many electrical advantages and the robust design. But my biggest concern switching to Märklin is the increased sound created by tracks but also the pick-up shoes. The noise generated by the tracks can be attenuated as you show in your fine video, but what about the pick-up shoe noise?? How is the noise level of Märklin trains with pick-up shoe compared to 2-wire trains f.ex Roco trains? Med Venlig Hilsen Thomas Heder, Aalborg, Danmark
I love this method, thank you
Hi that’s a great idea what material have you used directly underneath your track and have you pinned that to the wooden boards. I am just a beginner and I’m looking for as much information as I can. Many Thanks Robert
Hi. I have recently pulled down my layout and have started a new one (plan 17 from the Anlagen book of Marklin) I had a look at you idea of using IKea Felt. Today I went to the store and just had a look at it. Is it possible that yours is a lot thicker then mine? I have not measured it but it seems like a 1/4 or 1/2 a mm thick. The product is made in india. Has anything changed over the last 4 years?? Anyway I am in the process of watching all of your videos; there are great !
Kind regards Richard- Brisbane Australia
Thank you for the positive feedback! Yes, I have heard this from several different people that IKEA changed this item. The anti-slip mat I’m using is about 2mm thick. The product you have found sounds a whole lot thinner.. Maybe it does the trick anyway?
Hi, Martin, do you still use this felt today or have you found something better?
Thank you! Excellent!
Great tips, what is the IKEA part number and name of felt? Thanks
Nice. my problem is after all the rails are settled. I used cork as a base. Now I plan to lubricate the wheels of the wagons.
Is it louder or quieter than the cork?
How do you fix felt to the table and to the track ??
That is brilliant sir!
Is this solution still actual or do you recommande better solution today (April 2021). Thanks for your comments!
Very helpful video!. But what to do if you already have ballasted the track?. My modular layout is so noisy.
Time for a "new" and improved layout.
As for noise if your wife walks into the room and has a list of projects for you to do you can just speed up your trains and say whaaaaaat? I can’t hear you.
That's funny 😄😆
Takk for bra tips om mange saker , abonnerer nå !
Åhh! Tack själv för den positiva feedbacken :)
Is this potentially a fire hazard compared to cork?
Hi! No. This material is confirming to anti-flammability according to the European regulations. I would think cork burns better, since it’s wood.
Cooles video
I have a question : how to make my train go faster (cause my train just like a crawling slug)
Hawe You checked if the collector on the motor needs to be celaned (wich can easily be done with at top and for example CRC contact cleaner) and the coals hawe good electric contact on both sides?
@@sheep1ewe Yeah, make sure you have good contract. Oil your engine regularly. And add booster if you have a large layout or a lot of engines and stuff drawing power.
@@informatimago
Yes, most of my collection is tinplates or H0 from the 80s, most of them only needed a cleanup and minor fix whan i got them, i use sewingmachine oil, but i don't know if it is optimal or not.
I never realized that railroads were quiet …. 🤫🤔🤔🤔
Well done....
merci encore
Track noise sounds more normal than quiet track.
The problem is because of the scale, the noise produced naturally is more high pitched than by a real 1:1 train. Some people record actual trains, and then reproduce the scene in HO to record a HO movie with realistic sound :-P
nice thanks
I like track noise it's more realistic
How can i amplify track noise?
Cool
Peco do not make a 3 rail track
mmmmm covfefe
I take it this dude never work on the railroad I’m a retired train Engineer 35 year . Train make Noise it’s ok . I like to see someone make a real layout not this bull I have been seeing . I’ll be posting some real photo of me layout soon
The problem is because of the scale, the noise produced naturally is more high pitched than by a real 1:1 train. Some people record actual trains, and then reproduce the scene in HO to record a HO movie with realistic sound :-P
Hi, Martin, do you still use this felt today or have you found something better?
Hi Darren. I believe the felt I´m using in the video is no longer available from IKEA. However, there are similar rubber based materials available. I would say that a disadvantage with the felt is that it collpses under passing trains, lowering the point for the engine with about 1mm. I don´t have a problem with that, but I know that some people using Fleischmann Profi couplings suffers from this. So.. yes I still us it and find it being a good sound damping agent. For flex tracks I instead use Woodland scenics ST100 vinyl roadbed.