Also, for those that dont have access to compressed air, you can put the cylinder at bottom dead center, feed a bunch of soft rope/string in through the spark plug hole, then crank the engine by hand until you feel resistance. That way you will never drop a valve.
Imo, this is a much safer way of doing this job. No risk of valves or air supply leaking down, or you knocking the valve off its seat when hitting it. The compressed air will rotate the piston to the bottom of the cylinder too, so if it does leak the valve may go bye bye.
Nice to see so much JZ content. When boosting up my 1JZ-VVTI, I had my head fully rebuilt, new buckets/shims, valve stem seals, BC Titanium valve springs and staggered 264/272 cams. Well worth doing when upping the boost.
Great job, the proper tools make it so much easier, although as the engine was out and all but stripped I would have just taken the head off, fitted a new head gasket and ARP bolts/studs for the extra hours work and small price, for piece of mind.
Agreed, not that much more work at that point to pull the head, slap in a factory GTE hesd gasket with a fresh set of studs to keep things reliable since it’ll be somewhat modded.
I would never take a head off unless necessary. Once unloaded they can bow, twist.... Then you have to go over the entire head to check for straightness. Which is honestly not easy to do correctly. Then its off to the machine shop for weeks to get the head decked, then shave down the cam side, then a little off the front. Then you have to cut the valves. That all assumes the machine shop does a good job. No shortage of 7Ms and 2JZs with snapped camshaft because the machine shop did crappy work. You also have to remember that even if a machine shop straightens everything correctly there will still ends up being more material in the middle of the head then the two edges due to the nature of how they shave down heads. On a mixed metal engine this will lead to a higher chances of head gasket failure in the future because there will be even more disparity in how the head sheds off heat on the edges compared to the center.
Agreed if not only for the ARP hardware. You're never going to be satisfied with power and not having to pull the engine back out especially for bottom end work just makes long term sense.
Working through your episodes, the more I watch the more I appreciate the style you guys have. I think you two are living the dream. I also really enjoy the occasional nods to MCM and BOM. Keep up the interesting work, love it!
Watching this while I don’t own a 2jz but an Ej257 engine for a hawkeye sti. Thank you for taking the time to teach interested car enthusiasts like ourselves. Looking forward to watching more
@Speed Academy There's 2 O rings behind the oil pump that must be changed. And to remove it you need to remove the lower and upper oil pans, both the pans and the pump will need to be resiliconed.
Great stuff as always, I really like how you take your time and explain the benefits of whatever it is your changing/installing. Can't wait for the final product of this build.👍👍
Hi guys..... Look, you know I have a history of giving you grief about dumb stuff, like your wheel choices - but honestly, your channel is *THE BEST* channel on RUclips for me, across all genres. This is the only channel where I'm actively pumped for the notifications. Keep up the great work and keep the awesome content coming! Oh, your auto-focus game is weak as hell.
Finally someone uses the same valve spring removal/installation tool I use. Although the tool is a little too thick in some cylinder heads, but you can always modify the tool by shaving it down a bit.
Love this. HondaBond is wizardry. I don't know how they make it, but I use it on my Mazda and love it. Way better than any other sealant I've tried in the last 25 years.
Valve seal replacement! I remember like making my own tools as a teen. Sitting awkwardly on top of my engine bay (no garage) set up an easy up over me 😂. And I did these myself in my driveway! I was always a do it yourself guy tho! I just don’t get into the brains of transmissions or rear ends!
Surprised you didn't take the opportunity to replace the oil pan with a aftermarket higher capacity unit with built-in windage tray. Would help prevent oil starvation when you're banging out those high-speed time attack turns 💯💯🏁
There is a windage tray from the factory on the 2j. Nobody really makes a larger capacity pan either. When running a super high grip aero setup oil starvation is an issue, but running 1 quart high lets you get away with modern sticky tires and a no too moderate aero setup with a 2j without oiling issues
@@supradma71 torque solutions just came out with a very nice replacement pan for the Subaru EJ. Very surprised nothing out there for 2JZ even though it sounds like it doesn't suffer the issues like a RB26 does.
Best way i have been installing oil pump, crank seals or whatever seal for years is with pvc pipe. You can buy pvc in many sizes and it wont cut the seal you try to install.
I’ve only had to change a crank seal 3 or 4 times and man whatever you paid for that crank seal puller it was worth it, especially if the engines still in the car they can be really hard to get out, and you’re so worried your gonna mar the block or crank shaft.
I wouldn't trust that. Just sounds like something that will fail under some pressure. Just get a good rubber/ptfe/whatever seal and you'll be good to go.
@@alexisthemexican have you seen or used it? It’s used in motorsport and by a lot of OEM’s especially industrial/commercial engines to keep the seal from coming out of the crankcase or head etc, any blow by and crank case pressure build up can pop a seal.
Aaahhhhh, did you torque the pan right after you applied hondabond? Best practice is to finger tighten the bolts for the first 12 hours, then torque to spec. This way you prevent the pieces of it breaking off due to pinching and falling into oil pan. Remember, you had this problem with an S2000 engine.
It really doesn't matter if you take off the paint on the inside of the pan where no one is going to seal it and you're going to be putting a sealant on...lol. those plastic or rubbery discs are phenomenal.
@@speedacademy yeah I guess moisture could get in there. I would have thought that the sealant would have been efficient enough. It should have still out lived that engine..lol. love the content.
lemme find out that DP is playing the flute in the background of Future's "Mask Off" song😅 i wonder if that fluid in that dampener could ever solidify and cause crank balance issues??? good video guys💪
The silicone oil used in the dampers is incredibly stable, the engine will need a full rebuilt long before the fluid damper shows any signs of aging. Banks power did a good video on fluidampers , the whole thing is worth watching but, here is link a link that jumps to the most important part. ruclips.net/video/OEd6tFbc86o/видео.html , Most of the myths you hear about fluid dampers solidifying are from guys that purchased ATI Super dampers and don't want to feel like they made the wrong choice.
Why didn't you point the cam lobes straight up or away from the buckets when measuring the clearance? Seems like the lobes were pointed sideways. I don't think you get an accurate measurement that way.
Question for you guys. I was able to get my hands on a 2JZ-GTE out of a IS300. Is it the same engines found in the Supra's? Do i have anything to worry about? It was the A/T version. Thanks!
So on the GTE non-vvti there's not a cam sensor? And on those GSC cams there's no trigger wheel? Do they have it in a different location on the non-vvti GTE motors or is this setup not CoP?
![+1,000HP 2JZ-GTE Engine Build - Full Start to Finish [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/C9lpWAlSvtw/mqdefault.jpg)
Love it! An MCM "Purity" shirt as you put Honda bond on your Toyota! Brilliant! :)
Ha ha ha ha I thought the same thing! Hang on a darn minute…what are the chances we could get Pete or Dave wearing a “In the Bin!” shirt next ha ha ha
Also, for those that dont have access to compressed air, you can put the cylinder at bottom dead center, feed a bunch of soft rope/string in through the spark plug hole, then crank the engine by hand until you feel resistance. That way you will never drop a valve.
Imo, this is a much safer way of doing this job. No risk of valves or air supply leaking down, or you knocking the valve off its seat when hitting it. The compressed air will rotate the piston to the bottom of the cylinder too, so if it does leak the valve may go bye bye.
That was all me back in the day 😂
Seeing how much you guys are putting into the Supra makes me wonder what PT is planning for the R34....Yikes, I sense 2 monsters being prepared LOL👍👍
I hope 26/30 3.2 nitto stroker kit hahahaahha
Probably nothing, because it's in to nice a condition to do anything to.🙄
Great video, I'm currently swapping a 2JZGTE into an FRS!!!
Content and Cinematic shots makes this series amazing!
Do look forward to my Saturday midnight videos, much love from Australia
Greetings from the past! It's still Saturday morning in California
12:10 mmmm that new belt smell. I still remember that from refreshing my VVTi-GTE Aristo engine.
I love how simple the 2jz/1jz are to work on. Fantastic engine💪🏽.
Nice to see so much JZ content. When boosting up my 1JZ-VVTI, I had my head fully rebuilt, new buckets/shims, valve stem seals, BC Titanium valve springs and staggered 264/272 cams. Well worth doing when upping the boost.
Who did your head and approximately how much was it?
Great job, the proper tools make it so much easier, although as the engine was out and all but stripped I would have just taken the head off, fitted a new head gasket and ARP bolts/studs for the extra hours work and small price, for piece of mind.
Honestly for the power goals I like to keep the engine sealed up as is from the factory. The reliability is always there.
Agreed, not that much more work at that point to pull the head, slap in a factory GTE hesd gasket with a fresh set of studs to keep things reliable since it’ll be somewhat modded.
I would never take a head off unless necessary. Once unloaded they can bow, twist.... Then you have to go over the entire head to check for straightness. Which is honestly not easy to do correctly. Then its off to the machine shop for weeks to get the head decked, then shave down the cam side, then a little off the front. Then you have to cut the valves. That all assumes the machine shop does a good job. No shortage of 7Ms and 2JZs with snapped camshaft because the machine shop did crappy work. You also have to remember that even if a machine shop straightens everything correctly there will still ends up being more material in the middle of the head then the two edges due to the nature of how they shave down heads. On a mixed metal engine this will lead to a higher chances of head gasket failure in the future because there will be even more disparity in how the head sheds off heat on the edges compared to the center.
@@speedacademy yeah you open a can of worms every time you take a cylinder head off.
Agreed if not only for the ARP hardware. You're never going to be satisfied with power and not having to pull the engine back out especially for bottom end work just makes long term sense.
Working through your episodes, the more I watch the more I appreciate the style you guys have. I think you two are living the dream. I also really enjoy the occasional nods to MCM and BOM. Keep up the interesting work, love it!
Watching this while I don’t own a 2jz but an Ej257 engine for a hawkeye sti. Thank you for taking the time to teach interested car enthusiasts like ourselves. Looking forward to watching more
"If you're meEetric" sorry the voice crack had me LOL
I love the quality going into this build. It’s a breath of fresh air.
@Speed Academy There's 2 O rings behind the oil pump that must be changed. And to remove it you need to remove the lower and upper oil pans, both the pans and the pump will need to be resiliconed.
Great stuff as always, I really like how you take your time and explain the benefits of whatever it is your changing/installing. Can't wait for the final product of this build.👍👍
Hi guys..... Look, you know I have a history of giving you grief about dumb stuff, like your wheel choices - but honestly, your channel is *THE BEST* channel on RUclips for me, across all genres. This is the only channel where I'm actively pumped for the notifications. Keep up the great work and keep the awesome content coming! Oh, your auto-focus game is weak as hell.
File your grievances about autofocus to Canon. The damn thing loves to jump around like crazy! And thanks for the kind words
@@speedacademy A bit of FOCUS YOU FACK like your fellow countryman, the great AvE says, should smooth things out, right?
The 2jz seems very simple when it’s broken down! Good job guys!
This is literally therapy and relaxation to me
Like clockwork. Saturday morning just got better.
Finally someone uses the same valve spring removal/installation tool I use. Although the tool is a little too thick in some cylinder heads, but you can always modify the tool by shaving it down a bit.
Love this. HondaBond is wizardry. I don't know how they make it, but I use it on my Mazda and love it. Way better than any other sealant I've tried in the last 25 years.
Still new information on tools & 1st hand experience for the multiple 2JZ engines for SA. Really enjoy this content Dave & Pete
Great video with great instructions for other 2j guys! That lisle seal tool looks to be a perfect tool for those jobs so i just ordered one!
most underrated channel! always enjoy your videos
definitely my favorite type videos from you guys!! so informative and never in a rush!
Valve seal replacement! I remember like making my own tools as a teen. Sitting awkwardly on top of my engine bay (no garage) set up an easy up over me 😂.
And I did these myself in my driveway!
I was always a do it yourself guy tho! I just don’t get into the brains of transmissions or rear ends!
Can’t wait to see both these cars ripping! You guys should do a multi episode road trip with them once they are done.
Surprised you didn't take the opportunity to replace the oil pan with a aftermarket higher capacity unit with built-in windage tray. Would help prevent oil starvation when you're banging out those high-speed time attack turns 💯💯🏁
There is a windage tray from the factory on the 2j. Nobody really makes a larger capacity pan either. When running a super high grip aero setup oil starvation is an issue, but running 1 quart high lets you get away with modern sticky tires and a no too moderate aero setup with a 2j without oiling issues
@@supradma71 torque solutions just came out with a very nice replacement pan for the Subaru EJ. Very surprised nothing out there for 2JZ even though it sounds like it doesn't suffer the issues like a RB26 does.
Your shop is getting quite the back drop boys!
Thanks guys, this video is surely gonna help out when I eventually rebuild my 1JZ. Clear explanations and visuals😁👍
The Blue on the Supra in the background looks really nice. At first it was just an ok colour. But it has won me over.
Nice video guys.👍🏼
Can’t wait to hear this thing run!
You've got a beautiful selection of cars!
Best way i have been installing oil pump, crank seals or whatever seal for years is with pvc pipe. You can buy pvc in many sizes and it wont cut the seal you try to install.
Hey guys, please restore that timing belt plastic cover, the faded black is killing the vibe
Wow another vid of the supra. Itll be like the number 20 supras video. The r34 on the back collecting dust...
Good work fellas...
Now THAT's a hammer, Academy.
I highly recommend a billet timing bracket as a must have upgrade, especially with those cams and springs.
I don't think I'll ever be able to own/afford this engine personally, but great vid!
Thanks for sharing guys very informative 👍
I'm sure I just saw you guys.
In the red Supra here in beamsville. Passed you in the red turbo MR2 cool
Dont forget the crank seal on the clutch side, those leak often too
You want... nay, NEED your timing belt to smell good. Gates racing (the blue ones) are good too
I’ve only had to change a crank seal 3 or 4 times and man whatever you paid for that crank seal puller it was worth it, especially if the engines still in the car they can be really hard to get out, and you’re so worried your gonna mar the block or crank shaft.
Those Lisle tools 🔥
0:48 sick moves
My buddy and I did all this on a VQ and I'm low key jelly of how easy the 2JZ is in comparison lol
Agreed, after doing many timing belts and water pumps on different motors my 1JZ was an absolute breeze in comparison
Lol I sold my G after my water pump gernaded fuck that job
Well done guys good progress
Hi, i love your videos. Diego from Argentina !
Vamos Argentina 🇦🇷!!!!!
Honestly the voice over was pretty peaceful... 🤣😂
Love your work bro
Really enjoy your channel. It's one of the few I look forward to. Does a Patron account help more than a merch purchase? Think I'll do both
Yes, merch isnt much of a money maker for us. Its just a way to offer clothing to people who want it.
I've seen it mentioned a few times already, but please please do a billet timing tensioner bracket!!
But you did not install billet timing tensioner bracket, the OEM ones tend to crack in high HP builds.
No need in the power level we are making. The OE ones are solid choices to 800HP
damn just seeing all the JDM icons in this video amazes me. Let me know if you're selling any :)
There is a ‘sealer’ like loctite available you use on the outside of seals that bonds them in and seals at the same time.
I wouldn't trust that. Just sounds like something that will fail under some pressure. Just get a good rubber/ptfe/whatever seal and you'll be good to go.
@@alexisthemexican have you seen or used it? It’s used in motorsport and by a lot of OEM’s especially industrial/commercial engines to keep the seal from coming out of the crankcase or head etc, any blow by and crank case pressure build up can pop a seal.
Very nice 2jz, this engine should be stock
should have put billet tensioner on the timing belt with those aftermarcket cams and spring i have seen a couple fail and it destroy the engine
Great work....would have put on some cam gears and degreed the cams as the motor is out
Great, just motivated me to order a seal kit and pull motor 😑. Nothing else to do over winter while it sits 🤷🏽♂️
I love a Supra as much as the next 30 year old who grew up watching the fast and furious movies, but what’s up with the SKYLINE?
@ 9:00 You guys sound like you just discovered fire.🤣
That tool at 15:44 you got a link i could use that for oil pans looks sweet
All of that work, should of put a new head gasket on it too.
RMS, didn't replace that, which often leaks.
Pete’s tool academy
6:10 “bump stick” 😂
Aaahhhhh, did you torque the pan right after you applied hondabond?
Best practice is to finger tighten the bolts for the first 12 hours, then torque to spec.
This way you prevent the pieces of it breaking off due to pinching and falling into oil pan.
Remember, you had this problem with an S2000 engine.
Woohooo! Love this series
I wan a Supra so bad that’s my dream car
Should have added an oil pan baffle while you where in the pan.
1JZ gte vvti next please!
It really doesn't matter if you take off the paint on the inside of the pan where no one is going to seal it and you're going to be putting a sealant on...lol. those plastic or rubbery discs are phenomenal.
Its a spot that can potentially rust hence why we try not to strip it. 👍🏼
@@speedacademy yeah I guess moisture could get in there. I would have thought that the sealant would have been efficient enough. It should have still out lived that engine..lol. love the content.
MCM purity tshirt represent!!!
I know it’s an old video but great information.. When one speaks of refreshing the seals, is this all of them? Thanks!
Can you guys build a Lexus sc300 plz
Hondabond for the win!
Hi could you tell me where you got that tool for removing retainers and fir oil valve steam seals? 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Does the harmonic balancer fluid get thicker and cold under negative temperatures, until engine warms up?? Lol
i always found it way easier to do that job by just pulling a head and using a different tool
lemme find out that DP is playing the flute in the background of Future's "Mask Off" song😅 i wonder if that fluid in that dampener could ever solidify and cause crank balance issues??? good video guys💪
No the silicone used will never harden
The silicone oil used in the dampers is incredibly stable, the engine will need a full rebuilt long before the fluid damper shows any signs of aging. Banks power did a good video on fluidampers , the whole thing is worth watching but, here is link a link that jumps to the most important part. ruclips.net/video/OEd6tFbc86o/видео.html , Most of the myths you hear about fluid dampers solidifying are from guys that purchased ATI Super dampers and don't want to feel like they made the wrong choice.
Enjoying a little lobe on the cob? 😂
You guys are!!!
Proof that not every car tuning were dangerous
Ik tha supercharger and turbocharger were all dangerous, but reliability mods on any engine were maybe safe
would these also apply to the GE version? I want to also maintain and keep my 19 year old even more reliable for years to come
@Speed Academy - can you send me a DM where you where able to get your hands on that factory manual?
Hey could we get a link to the chisel you used to remove that oil pan?
Why didn't you point the cam lobes straight up or away from the buckets when measuring the clearance? Seems like the lobes were pointed sideways. I don't think you get an accurate measurement that way.
Did the performance cam affect the ac compressor efficiency?
I need this done to my 1996 lexus gs 300 i got the same motor but need more horse power
Love this.
Loctite on the cam pulley bolts?
How much psi of air are you using to keep the valves up?
What is the name of the service manual your using and where can I buy one
Question for you guys. I was able to get my hands on a 2JZ-GTE out of a IS300. Is it the same engines found in the Supra's? Do i have anything to worry about? It was the A/T version. Thanks!
So on the GTE non-vvti there's not a cam sensor? And on those GSC cams there's no trigger wheel? Do they have it in a different location on the non-vvti GTE motors or is this setup not CoP?
Who’s RSP Supra in the back!
Looks like this engine needs some dry ice cleaning 😀
Let me ask. Can the water pump 1jz fit with 2jz? Thank you.