your info for the most part in this series was correct however the shock oil level is one of the more critical aspects, the reason you were having issues pushing your wiper seal into the shaft was you were compressing the air under the floating piston, you should have had a lower oil level, (read precisely measured from the top brim) to account for the wiper seal and piston and shaft that displaces the oil. You said you had too make due with the tools you have but the caliper is very sufficient and you should have used a set height for the floating piston as well, just for consistency sake, and then you could figure out the exact oil level needed without moving the piston. all of your shocks will be different, they wont be too far off cause valving is the same, but i personally would take a little more time and care. not knocking you, just brainstorming while watching your video.
I truly appreciate your input and I do see that the extra steps would make a further difference. I will look into this on my next shock cartridge revalve (hopefully this week).
Hi! Thanks to your videos I got inspired and decided to transport the coilovers on a plane to Argentina where I live, otherwise, those would be retained by the TSA because as long as I know are not allowed to take on plane. Well, the reason I write you now is because I want to do a kindly remark on your procedure, at 3:51 when you put ths piston inside the cylinder, you leave an air chamber on the top of it. The way to eliminate this air chamber is to keep a void on the bottom but the double of volume you leave and, on the top, oil must be near to overflow. What's your thought? thanks for your time.
As I think about this scenario, when inserting the piston/shaft I would make sure to have the adjustment knob turned all the way to full soft (valve inside shaft fully open) so that any pockets of air will escape through the center of the shafts needle/bleed valve in the bottom of the shaft and out the shaft exit ports located on the otherside /above the piston. This is kinda hard to describe, but once you have the piston shaft in your hand it should make more sense.
Frugal_Fabrication air chamber will be located between the top of the piston (will hace a layer of oil) and then the air and then the cap which contains the lip seal, yes, is very hard to describe, but, after your video I watched a bc coilover factory video which shows that they fill up to overflow this what I tell you, just want to discuss this before I assemble my coilovers and see about your experience what you think. Kind regards,
+Matias Sebastian ok yes. I know the video and which part you are speaking of. A syringe to squirt the oil into that gap would be my best thoughts on how to fill that air space. But tightening the dust cap/top may be very hard to screw on/tighten as liquids are not compressible. I did not use a syringe myself, I just poured the shock oil in. And to be honest, I still had a little bit of air in the top and when I put the shocks on a shock dynamometer, they still were fine.
Good evening I am writing to ask you if you can change the extension braking of the 595 Abarth BC racing by changing the piston or changing the oil density or if there is a modification kit. Thank you cordiality Ghjuanni
I have not seen a modification kit for this directly. You may have to measure the interior diameter of the shock tube or diameter of the piston, and find a digressive one (hopefully the Bilstein piston I showed in the clublexus tutorial) that you can build on using the math and instructions I showed in the clublexus tutorial.
Please read my tutorial by going to google.com and typing “Diy shock revalve clublexus” and select the first link. or visit the following link below: www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-1st-gen-1993-1997/770149-diy-shock-revalve-parts-1-3-a.html
Couldn't you just position the floating piston, put in the proper amount of fluid, install the upper piston, put in the c-clip, then place in the bottom seal (using the nitrogen needle to prevent pressure), and not have to fight? If you have too much fluid, of course, you'll end up pushing out the floating piston, but you have to have WAY too much :p.
If I read your message correctly, the floating piston would likely make contact with the bottom black "butt plate" (the part that has the self healing seal rubber seal). This is just my belief. I think even with the nitrogen charge afterwards, the floating piston wouldn't move upward as liquids (oil) cannot be compressed. Gases can.
I don't think that would happen unless you have too much oil (or air) above the floating piston. The relative position of the floating piston should still be maintainable. It's just about getting the right amount of fluid and not getting any air mixed in with it, which may well not be doable. One (probably easier) alternative would be to just bleed the air from the bottom chamber once you get to the point where you are forcing the assembly together and can *just* get it to the place for the c-clip to fit. Then the c-clip install will be easily and the floating piston will be properly positioned once the chamber is pressurized.
+looncraz I see what you are saying in the 2nd paragraph and that does make sense in making the assembly easier. Thank you for the suggestion, as this can help many others who will attempt a shock/strut rebuild.
@@frugalfabrication please check CL I have a bunch of questions to ask you. I've been able to find the part numbers and add where to get this stuff, but I have more questions.
Finished filming segments of how to measure and adjust for the "dividing/sliding" piston this evening. Plan to edit and post it as part 4.2 soon.
your info for the most part in this series was correct however the shock oil level is one of the more critical aspects, the reason you were having issues pushing your wiper seal into the shaft was you were compressing the air under the floating piston, you should have had a lower oil level, (read precisely measured from the top brim) to account for the wiper seal and piston and shaft that displaces the oil.
You said you had too make due with the tools you have but the caliper is very sufficient and you should have used a set height for the floating piston as well, just for consistency sake, and then you could figure out the exact oil level needed without moving the piston.
all of your shocks will be different, they wont be too far off cause valving is the same, but i personally would take a little more time and care.
not knocking you, just brainstorming while watching your video.
I truly appreciate your input and I do see that the extra steps would make a further difference.
I will look into this on my next shock cartridge revalve (hopefully this week).
Hi! Thanks to your videos I got inspired and decided to transport the coilovers on a plane to Argentina where I live, otherwise, those would be retained by the TSA because as long as I know are not allowed to take on plane. Well, the reason I write you now is because I want to do a kindly remark on your procedure, at 3:51 when you put ths piston inside the cylinder, you leave an air chamber on the top of it. The way to eliminate this air chamber is to keep a void on the bottom but the double of volume you leave and, on the top, oil must be near to overflow. What's your thought? thanks for your time.
As I think about this scenario, when inserting the piston/shaft I would make sure to have the adjustment knob turned all the way to full soft (valve inside shaft fully open) so that any pockets of air will escape through the center of the shafts needle/bleed valve in the bottom of the shaft and out the shaft exit ports located on the otherside /above the piston.
This is kinda hard to describe, but once you have the piston shaft in your hand it should make more sense.
Frugal_Fabrication air chamber will be located between the top of the piston (will hace a layer of oil) and then the air and then the cap which contains the lip seal, yes, is very hard to describe, but, after your video I watched a bc coilover factory video which shows that they fill up to overflow this what I tell you, just want to discuss this before I assemble my coilovers and see about your experience what you think. Kind regards,
+Matias Sebastian ok yes. I know the video and which part you are speaking of. A syringe to squirt the oil into that gap would be my best thoughts on how to fill that air space. But tightening the dust cap/top may be very hard to screw on/tighten as liquids are not compressible.
I did not use a syringe myself, I just poured the shock oil in. And to be honest, I still had a little bit of air in the top and when I put the shocks on a shock dynamometer, they still were fine.
what happened at 6:40? Seems like the video started over
I guess this was a error in video editing. I just realized this.
Good evening I am writing to ask you if you can change the extension braking of the 595 Abarth BC racing by changing the piston or changing the oil density or if there is a modification kit. Thank you cordiality Ghjuanni
I have not seen a modification kit for this directly. You may have to measure the interior diameter of the shock tube or diameter of the piston, and find a digressive one (hopefully the Bilstein piston I showed in the clublexus tutorial) that you can build on using the math and instructions I showed in the clublexus tutorial.
Hello
How many oil level for one shocks and whats oil please ?
Please read my tutorial by going to google.com and typing “Diy shock revalve clublexus” and select the first link.
or
visit the following link below:
www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-1st-gen-1993-1997/770149-diy-shock-revalve-parts-1-3-a.html
hello everyone, does anyone know the site to purchase parts for repairing the blistein kit?
The sites are listed on the Clublexus.com tutorial I wrote. It is mentioned in the video. Just google “Clublexus tutorial BC racing revalve”
Couldn't you just position the floating piston, put in the proper amount of fluid, install the upper piston, put in the c-clip, then place in the bottom seal (using the nitrogen needle to prevent pressure), and not have to fight?
If you have too much fluid, of course, you'll end up pushing out the floating piston, but you have to have WAY too much :p.
If I read your message correctly, the floating piston would likely make contact with the bottom black "butt plate" (the part that has the self healing seal rubber seal). This is just my belief. I think even with the nitrogen charge afterwards, the floating piston wouldn't move upward as liquids (oil) cannot be compressed. Gases can.
I don't think that would happen unless you have too much oil (or air) above the floating piston. The relative position of the floating piston should still be maintainable. It's just about getting the right amount of fluid and not getting any air mixed in with it, which may well not be doable.
One (probably easier) alternative would be to just bleed the air from the bottom chamber once you get to the point where you are forcing the assembly together and can *just* get it to the place for the c-clip to fit. Then the c-clip install will be easily and the floating piston will be properly positioned once the chamber is pressurized.
+looncraz I see what you are saying in the 2nd paragraph and that does make sense in making the assembly easier.
Thank you for the suggestion, as this can help many others who will attempt a shock/strut rebuild.
On your thread you need a clear parts needed list and where you bought them ;) would be helpful for anyone replicateing
zazzn good idea.. I will try to add that in by this weekend hopefully (super busy these days)
@@frugalfabrication please check CL I have a bunch of questions to ask you. I've been able to find the part numbers and add where to get this stuff, but I have more questions.
zazzn check your inbox messages on clublexus for revalving and let me know.
zazzn check your inbox
help
What do you need help with.