Will it effect the moisture levels in the building applying this over brick work .And whats the score with using it on wooden buildings to make them a bit more weatherproof.
You can put it onto expanded metal lath but most people use a cement board and then use a readymix tub of acrylic over the Rendaid. You are best off seeking advice from Weber on this because it depends on vapour control from the inside out.
Hi , Iv just had my house rendered in monocouch chalk , 6/7 weeks ago , but it seems to be still seems to be flaking when rubbed, I have black plinths and black decking and when it rains or sprayed with a hose it leaves little grains of chalk on the decking and plinths ,is this normal, any advice would be appreciated thanks
I guess im asking randomly but does anyone know of a trick to get back into an Instagram account?? I was stupid forgot the account password. I would appreciate any tricks you can give me!
@Gary Ira i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im trying it out atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
I admire your "let's have a go" attitude towards it. With some careful planning and adhering to some basic rules and guidelines, I'm all for giving it a crack, you can only improve. It's always such a big, bitchy hush hush secret (which is many people's livelihood, I appreciate!) But a cracking job, Roger!
have a look at Kirk who has a channel called On The Trowel. I left it a bit late to use that I beam. I could have saved a lot of work on the rubbing up. That said it turned out well.
As usual I learnt something. I did not realise that you scratched the surface to prevent the cracking. I did a bit of rendering with K rend and its really easy. You can smooth the surface where you fluffed up applying it. Best not to scrape it early. It may be a little harder later (not to late) but it gives a better finish.
Salvo Tr The Weber is no more prone to cracking than the K Rend. The main difference is that K Rend has some silicone in it which is claimed to help water run off and the Weber product has a mould inhibitor. There is a problem in urban enviornments with streaking on these through coloured monocouche coatings and Weber give good advice on avoiding this. Unfortunately many builders don't follow it.
Top tip for this type of render let it set till u can just press a finger into it then u can start scratching back Michel easier on the arms still a nice job mind u
Love watching your vids very informative. Couple of questions if you don’t mind. 1st. I noticed there was a greyish render on part of the house which you went over. Did you put that on before the One Coat render? If so Why? 2nd. Did you have to prime wall first? If so what primer did you use? PVA or SBR. There’s so many primers on the market and it’s hard to know which is best. Thanks.
Aqua panel exterior is a render board by knauf, but there is lots of other makes,parex one coat render won't guarantee there product if use a cement based board also they won't allow the building to breathe.
Great video Rodger. If I was to render the back of my house, how would I finish between my side and the neighbours? Would that simply be a stop bead vertically down the wall on the boundary line. Any advice would be appreciated.
Hi Roger, I've ended up watching loads of these videos even though I'm t likely to have to do any of these things. What is the purpose of rendering? Is it purely decorative or does it have a practical function?
Hi Michael, rendering provides both decorative and practical advantages! Rendering protects the brickwork from harsh weather conditions. Our Ecorend MR1 Monocuche Render is water resistant and breathable, meaning that it protects properties from day to day degradation from the weather, without causing mould and mildew, which can become trapped and cause issues in renders that don't breathe!
I've got the pebble dash problem. Yes it's a nightmare. Whoever put it on knew what he was doing. I doubt I'll be able to get it off. Seen this one coat dash coat stuff. I've read after scrapping loose pebble dash bits off can apply straight over pebble dash. What are your thoughts on this? The house is only top half pebble dashed. I need a solution. I love my house. I HATE the pebble dash. Please help!
This is what I don’t get they say it’s a one coat system yet you are putting two coats on, basically a scratch coat like you would on sand and cement without the scratch key but it’s two coats not one.
Always stick the beads on,pink grip is the best,if you screw or nail and they rust there is nothing you can do to repair,One coat renders are not easy to patch they will always end up different colours,also if you are rendering different walls i.e. Gable/ front etc they must be scratched at the same times or you can end up with different colours,and to the question below one coat renders are breathable as long as they are not applied on top of sand cement render.You can use render boards over timber buildings as long as you use base coat first,rend aid or parinter if using parex one coat which can be applied in one go,no need for 2 coats.
Good advice Mark. We did use stainless steel screws but I take you point Pink Grip will never rust. When you say render boards are these cement-based building boards or something special?
This stuff is one coat system. If You make some wave on 1st coat, deferent fickness can make u troubles with marks. On exterior blocks not need rendaid and always, like weber specification, You need put mesh around windows. If You don't do that, weber don't give guarantee for customer on those product. Like for me don't looks like profesional, sorry. P.s. Sorry for my grammar
elo Roger do u need to mesh the brick work up to or just around the windows also do u have to use a base coat or just the one application and how long do u get to put it on the wall after mixing up the Weber sorry about all questions just am old school sand and cement lol but getting people asking for this system and can u put this straight over painted brick work phew cheers 👍
Rock&Roll45 Sorry mate I didn't see this question. The alerts don't always work. We used Rendaid on the blockwork and meshed that up because it was Thermalites but the brickwork is good to go over with one coat. The first pass pulls back on the mortar courses and then, as it picks up, you can simply give it a second pass as you do with finish plaster. As for painted brikwork, if the paint is really on there then I suppose it will be o.k but I would rake the joints out a bit so at least it has some key into the substrate.
What would you do in terms of having lead flashing beneath a window sill on a wall you want to render? Fold it up render under it and push the flashing back down after?
@@SkillBuilder I notice many rendered houses don't have visible flashing at all under the sills. Is it possible to just remove the lead flashing completely and render right up to the sill or would that cause issues do you think?
Hi everyone. If you have a few minutes on a dull day take a look at our new Ask Skill Builder feature on skill-builder.uk ruclips.net/video/FbkQwB9fqXE/видео.html We want your questions and comments to help us make this a huge success.
I would say that you need to scabble as much off as you can to get a key back to the brick. If you have 50% bare brick and use the bonding agent you will be fine.
hiya there i done my house extension with concreate blocks will i need one coat of that render or 2 coats and aslo i was gona ask you will i have to put pva or something else on wall 1st so it wont get dry quick
Don't ever use PVA on the outside. If you are using this product then put the first coat on and build it up with some more while it is still wet. It pulls in as it dries and will then support some more.
Under no circumstances would I put those type of products straight onto brickwork, your asking for trouble down the road. The risk of delamintation is extremely high if you don't follow the correct procedure, from what I've seen here expect problems
Nice work Roger. I guess being lime it will naturally be breathable, always a good thing helping the walls to breathe. Modern day renders such as sand/cement/gypsum is not always a progression. Old techniques of using lime is still the way to go.
Totally agree lime is lovely. I use it with sand and cement to add a bit of fat and it makes it nice to work with. I think Weber is crushed limestone and cement and I would guess there are polymers in there but I don't know.
Yes I said that at the end. The problem is it was dark and the rain was setting in so we had to leave it and the next morning, despite the soaking, it had set quite hard. We did better on the front and back but that is the learning curve.
Render looks good but I was always advised to never buy a rendered house as it is almost certain that it has been applied to hide problems. Buyer beware
Hi just a quick question why did you use rend aid on the front but not on the side ? just wondering as im thinking of using the same stuff on my house. cheers
Hi Michaelle We needed to use it so we could mesh up the porch which was built of Thermalites. So we thought we might as well give the whole of the front a base coat with the same material which we had left over. It was a mistake because the next coat wasn't quite thick enough to stop the grey showing through in places and we had to frig about. So we decided that on the sides and back we would just go with the one coat. There was no issue with adhesion so no need for it.
Sorry only just picking these questions up. We used rendaid on the front because someone told us it was a good idea but it isn't because the grey colour shows through when you scratch up. If you use the Rendaid then give it a scratch coat of finish and let that go off.
@@SkillBuilder when it's not your trade and your demonstrating on how to do it please go learn it first on a course to no why you need to do it there's comments I don't understand from you like a friend told us to use rendaid if you don't no what it's for why you doing it plus if it shows grey through the topcoat means your rubbing it back to far.
@@SkillBuilder No worries, I only found it as I searched for that specific product after seeing it in Toolstation. Any idea if it'll work as plaster where the depth will vary to a max of 12mm?
I know what you mean but it was never a great looking building and this monocouche is the fashion at the moment. It will date as everything does but the customer wants it and we don't dictate taste.
from 6:00 onwards the finish looks awful, im not saying this cause i know how to do it better im saying this based on if id paid someone to do that to my house id be fkin pissed off, loos textured in one spot and smooth as babys bum in another spot
Hi Richard You seem to be working through the videos to pick out the ones you don't like. I went to the Academy and did the course. This job is fine, the people down the road saw it and asked us to do theirs.
![Lil Uzi Vert - Chill Bae [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/D7F42F_JM3U/mqdefault.jpg)
Will it effect the moisture levels in the building applying this over brick work .And whats the score with using it on wooden buildings to make them a bit more weatherproof.
You can put it onto expanded metal lath but most people use a cement board and then use a readymix tub of acrylic over the Rendaid. You are best off seeking advice from Weber on this because it depends on vapour control from the inside out.
Hi , Iv just had my house rendered in monocouch chalk , 6/7 weeks ago , but it seems to be still seems to be flaking when rubbed, I have black plinths and black decking and when it rains or sprayed with a hose it leaves little grains of chalk on the decking and plinths ,is this normal, any advice would be appreciated thanks
I guess im asking randomly but does anyone know of a trick to get back into an Instagram account??
I was stupid forgot the account password. I would appreciate any tricks you can give me!
@Saul Brysen Instablaster ;)
@Gary Ira i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im trying it out atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Great job Roger. As a chippie I like messing about doing different jobs like that. Yours is a good example what to aim for.
Very good and hoenst expalnation. Perhaps the scratching a day later was an error though as final finish may not be uniform?
I admire your "let's have a go" attitude towards it. With some careful planning and adhering to some basic rules and guidelines, I'm all for giving it a crack, you can only improve. It's always such a big, bitchy hush hush secret (which is many people's livelihood, I appreciate!) But a cracking job, Roger!
Thanks Roger I’ve just been asked to do this never done it before can’t beat skill builder
have a look at Kirk who has a channel called On The Trowel. I left it a bit late to use that I beam. I could have saved a lot of work on the rubbing up. That said it turned out well.
As usual I learnt something. I did not realise that you scratched the surface to prevent the cracking.
I did a bit of rendering with K rend and its really easy. You can smooth the surface where you fluffed up applying it.
Best not to scrape it early. It may be a little harder later (not to late) but it gives a better finish.
Yes we had a couple of little holes to repair and it is easy to rectify problems and patch up.
Hi what's difference in quality and final result between weber and k-rend
is the weber more likely to crack with time?
Salvo Tr
The Weber is no more prone to cracking than the K Rend. The main difference is that K Rend has some silicone in it which is claimed to help water run off and the Weber product has a mould inhibitor. There is a problem in urban enviornments with streaking on these through coloured monocouche coatings and Weber give good advice on avoiding this. Unfortunately many builders don't follow it.
Top tip for this type of render let it set till u can just press a finger into it then u can start scratching back Michel easier on the arms still a nice job mind u
Good advice. We left that front a bit too long but round the sides we were on it and, as you say, it is a lot easier.
Love watching your vids very informative.
Couple of questions if you don’t mind.
1st. I noticed there was a greyish render on part of the house which you went over.
Did you put that on before the One Coat render? If so Why?
2nd. Did you have to prime wall first? If so what primer did you use? PVA or SBR.
There’s so many primers on the market and it’s hard to know which is best.
Thanks.
It was a bonding coat and it is basically cement based tile adhesive sold in different bags. It is not essential but it helps
@@SkillBuilder
What about using a primer first
PVA or RBS?
Did you have to wet the brickwork first?
Looks really good, what is the colour called you used?
Shouldn't there be a bell housing bead on that bottom edge? They are supposed to angle out ever so slightly for water run off.
No a bell housing just hold moisture and goes mouldy, I don't like them.
I really like all your videos
Love this guy 👍
Hi great work can you tell me what are the plastic base and corner pieces you are using cheers again great vid
Good work. I am a teacher from Manukush. I have a lot of experience. This work has been going on for years. Would you help me work with you?
Aqua panel exterior is a render board by knauf, but there is lots of other makes,parex one coat render won't guarantee there product if use a cement based board also they won't allow the building to breathe.
Do you need to apply a waterproofing SBR to the blocks first before applying the Weber render? Thanks 😊
Great video Rodger. If I was to render the back of my house, how would I finish between my side and the neighbours? Would that simply be a stop bead vertically down the wall on the boundary line. Any advice would be appreciated.
Yes exactly that. Make sure they are 100% happy with the line before you fix the bead
Thank you for your time, much appreciated.
Hi Roger, I've ended up watching loads of these videos even though I'm t likely to have to do any of these things.
What is the purpose of rendering? Is it purely decorative or does it have a practical function?
Hi Michael, rendering provides both decorative and practical advantages! Rendering protects the brickwork from harsh weather conditions. Our Ecorend MR1 Monocuche Render is water resistant and breathable, meaning that it protects properties from day to day degradation from the weather, without causing mould and mildew, which can become trapped and cause issues in renders that don't breathe!
I've got the pebble dash problem. Yes it's a nightmare. Whoever put it on knew what he was doing. I doubt I'll be able to get it off. Seen this one coat dash coat stuff. I've read after scrapping loose pebble dash bits off can apply straight over pebble dash. What are your thoughts on this? The house is only top half pebble dashed. I need a solution. I love my house. I HATE the pebble dash. Please help!
i like this guy thanks for a great introduction
When you went straight onto the brickwork did it not need a scratch coat and mesh ?
Or was it OK straight onto the brick, 2 coats and rubbed up ?
We only meshed the aircrete. The bricks are fine. We just went on with two coats one straight after the other.
This is what I don’t get they say it’s a one coat system yet you are putting two coats on, basically a scratch coat like you would on sand and cement without the scratch key but it’s two coats not one.
Always stick the beads on,pink grip is the best,if you screw or nail and they rust there is nothing you can do to repair,One coat renders are not easy to patch they will always end up different colours,also if you are rendering different walls i.e. Gable/ front etc they must be scratched at the same times or you can end up with different colours,and to the question below one coat renders are breathable as long as they are not applied on top of sand cement render.You can use render boards over timber buildings as long as you use base coat first,rend aid or parinter if using parex one coat which can be applied in one go,no need for 2 coats.
Good advice Mark. We did use stainless steel screws but I take you point Pink Grip will never rust. When you say render boards are these cement-based building boards or something special?
Don't use pink grip with krend. The solvents bleach through the colour
Hey what color is this product ?
This stuff is one coat system. If You make some wave on 1st coat, deferent fickness can make u troubles with marks. On exterior blocks not need rendaid and always, like weber specification, You need put mesh around windows. If You don't do that, weber don't give guarantee for customer on those product. Like for me don't looks like profesional, sorry. P.s. Sorry for my grammar
Good job mate like your positive attitude, what’s the coverage on 1 bag of Weber?
One bag covers one metre squared to a depth of 15mm.
always a bunger low, never a old terrace 125 year old with bad brick work lets see you do a gable end 30ft up
Do you know how this wall is now after a good while has passed? Any cracks on the brick side?
Super video again!!
Now bud do you need to put mesh on block work and if you apply this on to cement boards would you mesh all that too cheers
mesh anything you think might move. Concrete and brick should be fine
elo Roger do u need to mesh the brick work up to or just around the windows also do u have to use a base coat or just the one application and how long do u get to put it on the wall after mixing up the Weber sorry about all questions just am old school sand and cement lol but getting people asking for this system and can u put this straight over painted brick work phew cheers 👍
Rock&Roll45
Sorry mate I didn't see this question. The alerts don't always work. We used Rendaid on the blockwork and meshed that up because it was Thermalites but the brickwork is good to go over with one coat. The first pass pulls back on the mortar courses and then, as it picks up, you can simply give it a second pass as you do with finish plaster.
As for painted brikwork, if the paint is really on there then I suppose it will be o.k but I would rake the joints out a bit so at least it has some key into the substrate.
Skill Builder cheers bud
How do you finish the area beneath the main render ie to ground level?
What colour is this please
What would you do in terms of having lead flashing beneath a window sill on a wall you want to render? Fold it up render under it and push the flashing back down after?
Yes if it is possible to lift the flashing then putting the render under it is the best thing
@@SkillBuilder I notice many rendered houses don't have visible flashing at all under the sills. Is it possible to just remove the lead flashing completely and render right up to the sill or would that cause issues do you think?
I'm gona give it a go now watching you two wish me luck on small patio walls I'm a carpenter and Joiner by trade haha
I isn't as hard as we made it. Just hit the surface with the scraper before it goes hard.
@@SkillBuilder thanks I will
Nice job. What colour is this please?
Off white it looks like. but will dry lighter. Your local supplier will have a colour chart. Up to 50 colours
Can this be applied with a rough texture roller for a textured finish... Like a sort of exterior artex.
No it is too heavy
Great job how many bags fir 24m2
24
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We want your questions and comments to help us make this a huge success.
Would like to ask if this is compatible with lime mortar brickwork?
yes it is but it needs glass fibre mesh in the base coat.
You left that a bit long for scratching off is my take, still looks OK
You are right, it was my first go
@@SkillBuilder show me a prefect first job., I don't think there is such a thing. :)
If you work with Duncan you can't really go wrong
Bloody good job if I may say so! Love your vids
Thanks Mike. Spread the word we need to quadruple our subs to keep going.
Can this be applied to painted brick work?
I would say that you need to scabble as much off as you can to get a key back to the brick. If you have 50% bare brick and use the bonding agent you will be fine.
hiya there i done my house extension with concreate blocks will i need one coat of that render or 2 coats
and aslo i was gona ask you will i have to put pva or something else on wall 1st so it wont get dry quick
Don't ever use PVA on the outside. If you are using this product then put the first coat on and build it up with some more while it is still wet. It pulls in as it dries and will then support some more.
thanks alot
Why didn't yous use a darby?
I went on a training course and they didn't adivse it. If it works do it but the I beam does the same thing
great job
No disrespect but if my render was that hard the following day, I'd be stressing out.
Never seen a small panel be made such hard work.
Thanks Jamie. You are right we left it too long
Skill Builder
Yes but I can't slate you. It's a learning curve. Thanks for the reply
you did not use any mesh?
We did on the porch. You don't have to use mesh on all substrates. EWI and block yet but not these hard bricks
Under no circumstances would I put those type of products straight onto brickwork, your asking for trouble down the road. The risk of delamintation is extremely high if you don't follow the correct procedure, from what I've seen here expect problems
Hi John. Would you rendaid and cloth over the bricks?
Should have put a mesh coat best to use base coat mesh then top coat
depends on the substrate. The mesh was not needed on this house. There are no cracks
ive only used krend, what the plus's an minis's of using webber
Weber has stain resistance but K rend has silicone. That said they both stain if you get the detailing wrong
No mesh and building out to 15mm to scratch! It’s rule number one!
I thought that was rule number two
I came here to look at the comments too, I can’t believe what I have just watched
thats hideous. terrible finish
Nice work Roger. I guess being lime it will naturally be breathable, always a good thing helping the walls to breathe. Modern day renders such as sand/cement/gypsum is not always a progression. Old techniques of using lime is still the way to go.
Totally agree lime is lovely. I use it with sand and cement to add a bit of fat and it makes it nice to work with. I think Weber is crushed limestone and cement and I would guess there are polymers in there but I don't know.
cheers mate
Do you not need a mesh for this?
Depends on the substrate. Lightweight block yes you do but not these bricks.
What colour is that exactly?
Off white it looks like. But it does dry lighter. Your local supplier will have a colour chart. Up to 50 colours
No mesh ?
Yes on the blockwork but you don't need it on all surfaces
Can you put this directly over pebbledash?
Looks good but I think you guys left it a bit too long, much easier to do when a bit softer! :)
Yes I said that at the end. The problem is it was dark and the rain was setting in so we had to leave it and the next morning, despite the soaking, it had set quite hard. We did better on the front and back but that is the learning curve.
So sad to see those beautiful brick works got insulted by the layer of render!
Render looks good but I was always advised to never buy a rendered house as it is almost certain that it has been applied to hide problems.
Buyer beware
never listen to advice
It's not one coat then is it?😬
They call it one coat and you do see it applied in one hit but like skim coat plaster a second pass of the same material wet on wet is better.
Hi just a quick question why did you use rend aid on the front but not on the side ? just wondering as im thinking of using the same stuff on my house.
cheers
Hi Michaelle
We needed to use it so we could mesh up the porch which was built of Thermalites. So we thought we might as well give the whole of the front a base coat with the same material which we had left over. It was a mistake because the next coat wasn't quite thick enough to stop the grey showing through in places and we had to frig about. So we decided that on the sides and back we would just go with the one coat. There was no issue with adhesion so no need for it.
Sorry only just picking these questions up. We used rendaid on the front because someone told us it was a good idea but it isn't because the grey colour shows through when you scratch up. If you use the Rendaid then give it a scratch coat of finish and let that go off.
@@SkillBuilder when it's not your trade and your demonstrating on how to do it please go learn it first on a course to no why you need to do it there's comments I don't understand from you like a friend told us to use rendaid if you don't no what it's for why you doing it plus if it shows grey through the topcoat means your rubbing it back to far.
@@apollocreed85 We did go on a course. I understand that there are a few things I could do better but the end result stands.
69 & No Haters You Must be Doing Something Right Roger, "Great Work, Well, Done"
The Audiostud
Thanks.. Those haters are out there, it is only a matter of time
so its not one coat then.it is not one coat,why do people alwaysget this wrong.
It is if it's applied by machine sprayer. I do 2 coats by hand mixed using cement mixer.
Goodluck trying to find this product 😅😅
Scratch finish!😉
Left that far to late same day is best i bet you had an absolute nightmare
There's an extra 'n' in your title. Wenber.
Thank you. We didn't spot it
@@SkillBuilder No worries, I only found it as I searched for that specific product after seeing it in Toolstation. Any idea if it'll work as plaster where the depth will vary to a max of 12mm?
This has made a good looking brick wall look cheap and nasty.
I know what you mean but it was never a great looking building and this monocouche is the fashion at the moment. It will date as everything does but the customer wants it and we don't dictate taste.
from 6:00 onwards the finish looks awful, im not saying this cause i know how to do it better im saying this based on if id paid someone to do that to my house id be fkin pissed off, loos textured in one spot and smooth as babys bum in another spot
Skill builder stains on the brickwork ,go to k rend school first ,bad finish ,why didn’t you get a pro in on your first job and pick his brains
Hi Richard
You seem to be working through the videos to pick out the ones you don't like. I went to the Academy and did the course. This job is fine, the people down the road saw it and asked us to do theirs.
Scratches under that window looks like a dogs been at it! Learn to blunt your trowel down too, wow
Render with a flaw, lol ok
I hate this stuff. Difficult to work with