When I do stuff like this in my k40, I cover it with masking tape (aka painters tape) or sticky vinyl sold for craft cutters like cricut. You might need to slightly increase power to account for burning through the tape. When you're done with the tape, you peel the tape and have a beautiful surface left over. No cleaning other than pulling off the tape. I also like to use old vinyl sheets from my wife's cricut for this purpose. It's easier to use because the sheets come in 12" x 12" and the material is thicker so it often peels in a single sheet. On the other hand, burned vinyl smells a lot worse than burning paper tape.
5:00 When using 5 volts, you could connect always 2 LEDs in serial, together with 1 resistor. Then your LED-board will only need half the current, and requires half the number of resistors. This works with red, yellow, green LEDs, which have ~2 volts current drop per LED. However, it does not work with white or blue LEDs, due to the highter current drop per LED. The resistor have to be calculated to drop 1 volt. So, it's 2 x 2 V = 4 V, plus 1 V for the resistor, which perfectly adds up to the 5 volts of your power supply. Resistor typically will be 47 ohms. This is how I design PCBs with many LEDs, i. e. for panel backlights.
The solder pads are on the mask layers in kicad, make sure they are visible when you export. Also, you have an "edge cuts " layer in kicad, you could use that instead of the rectangle thingie in a separate program Great video!
I stopped using wood to do alignment and just started using scotch/masking tape, super cheap and easy to cleanup, and doesn't leave wood resin all over the laser.
I've done that on my K40 in the past, although I found it really hard to remove the spray paint, from my experience using less power to the laser makes it a little bit easier to remove. I personally used Copper Chloride to etch away the copper (it's a lot cheaper than using iron chloride and can be made in large quantities at home) and it seemed to remove less trace material resulting in a bit more consistent trace width.
It was a bit of a pain to remove all the paint. The ferric chloride however somehow helped. Maybe roughen up the surface with sandpaper causes the problem. Good to know indeed i even have copper chloride here but never read that it would work so thanks for that!
@@MancaveEffectsmy shortest way is mask pcb with tape and then cut instead of engraving , after cutting tape, remove unwanted tape just like decal , Clean tape residue and etch. 💯😜
I get much better results exporting gerber files to flatcam and creating svg files from there, less artifacts. Then lightburn to engrave the paint off.
Beim fräsen von PCBs nimmt man beim isolationsfräsen nur wenig zwischen dem Kupfer weg so das fast alles stehen bleibt und nur so viel platz geschaffen wird das die Traces isoliert sind. dann kannst du im Vectormode die Farbe besser wegbrennen
I have made some PCB's on my CNC router for Arduino projects that I did not want to use the Arduino on, just the chip and the components I do need and not the ones I don't, but like yours, I have to make the traces much thicker but I like the laser method better so I will have a go at this
I’m late to the party, but Corel draw svg import is pretty -sh…- bad. Here’s what you have to do: Load the svg in another program, for example Inkscape as it’s free, and export as eps or another format corel draw can handle better.
Super content pour tes 10k c'est super et parfaitement mérité, tu peux être fier de toi et clairement aussi pour ce projet très intéressant ! Merci pour tes vidéos. Maintenant que tu maîtrises la technique des PCB tu peux te lancer dans la fabrication d'une copie de Iron Man mister Stark ! 😁👍🏻
I understand that the laser is burning off the rest of the copper to create isolated circuits but what is the spray paint for? Would the laser not burn the copper off without it?
The laser burns away the spraypaint to reveal the copper that will be etched away later on. The copper under the spraypaint will resist the etching process.
From what I'm seeing in other videos, burning the copper away also burns the PC board, as in, turns the surface to carbon, also known as a resistor, so all your traces are shorted together.
The layout is from Bigclivedotcom a great youtube channel about electronics. He calls it the super computer. They are basicly self blinking leds you can order in china via ebay. Cheers
I'd call it a failure, seeing how good the results can be in the home shop when using UV resist. I'd imagine UV resist could easily be exposed with the now-prevalent 10W/20W 400nm blue diode laser engravers. The chemicals required for working with UV resist are pretty tame (sodium hydroxide for developing, sodium persulfate for etching, acetone for cleaning). However, if you want to test again with paint and a CO2 laser, I'd imagine a makeshift spincoater could help getting a consistent and very thin coating that is easier to burn away.
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When I do stuff like this in my k40, I cover it with masking tape (aka painters tape) or sticky vinyl sold for craft cutters like cricut. You might need to slightly increase power to account for burning through the tape. When you're done with the tape, you peel the tape and have a beautiful surface left over. No cleaning other than pulling off the tape. I also like to use old vinyl sheets from my wife's cricut for this purpose. It's easier to use because the sheets come in 12" x 12" and the material is thicker so it often peels in a single sheet. On the other hand, burned vinyl smells a lot worse than burning paper tape.
5:00 When using 5 volts, you could connect always 2 LEDs in serial, together with 1 resistor. Then your LED-board will only need half the current, and requires half the number of resistors. This works with red, yellow, green LEDs, which have ~2 volts current drop per LED. However, it does not work with white or blue LEDs, due to the highter current drop per LED. The resistor have to be calculated to drop 1 volt. So, it's 2 x 2 V = 4 V, plus 1 V for the resistor, which perfectly adds up to the 5 volts of your power supply. Resistor typically will be 47 ohms. This is how I design PCBs with many LEDs, i. e. for panel backlights.
The solder pads are on the mask layers in kicad, make sure they are visible when you export.
Also, you have an "edge cuts " layer in kicad, you could use that instead of the rectangle thingie in a separate program
Great video!
I stopped using wood to do alignment and just started using scotch/masking tape, super cheap and easy to cleanup, and doesn't leave wood resin all over the laser.
I've done that on my K40 in the past, although I found it really hard to remove the spray paint, from my experience using less power to the laser makes it a little bit easier to remove. I personally used Copper Chloride to etch away the copper (it's a lot cheaper than using iron chloride and can be made in large quantities at home) and it seemed to remove less trace material resulting in a bit more consistent trace width.
It was a bit of a pain to remove all the paint. The ferric chloride however somehow helped. Maybe roughen up the surface with sandpaper causes the problem.
Good to know indeed i even have copper chloride here but never read that it would work so thanks for that!
@@MancaveEffectsmy shortest way is mask pcb with tape and then cut instead of engraving , after cutting tape, remove unwanted tape just like decal , Clean tape residue and etch. 💯😜
I get much better results exporting gerber files to flatcam and creating svg files from there, less artifacts. Then lightburn to engrave the paint off.
tutorial please?
Beim fräsen von PCBs nimmt man beim isolationsfräsen nur wenig zwischen dem Kupfer weg so das fast alles stehen bleibt und nur so viel platz geschaffen wird das die Traces isoliert sind.
dann kannst du im Vectormode die Farbe besser wegbrennen
Isn't it possible simply to etch through the copper with the laser?
I have made some PCB's on my CNC router for Arduino projects that I did not want to use the Arduino on, just the chip and the components I do need and not the ones I don't, but like yours, I have to make the traces much thicker but I like the laser method better so I will have a go at this
I once had a cnc router and f#%ed it up so bad that it broke off all my milling bits 😂
Splais sometimes doesnt show up in laser software. I started to convert everythigt to poliline before going to laser.
10,000 subs? When did that happen!? Congrats!
I think it was the 6th of April. I am soooo proud 😁
I’m late to the party, but Corel draw svg import is pretty -sh…- bad.
Here’s what you have to do: Load the svg in another program, for example Inkscape as it’s free, and export as eps or another format corel draw can handle better.
Super content pour tes 10k c'est super et parfaitement mérité, tu peux être fier de toi et clairement aussi pour ce projet très intéressant ! Merci pour tes vidéos. Maintenant que tu maîtrises la technique des PCB tu peux te lancer dans la fabrication d'une copie de Iron Man mister Stark ! 😁👍🏻
Merci 😂 je crois d abord je me lance dans le boulot et la biere 😂😂
Crazy! Awesome! What k40 did you buy? Where did you buy it? I’m torn between Vevor K40 and Omtech K40
use self adhesive vinyl mask then clean residue with alcohol much easier then and more accurate then paint
You never had shrinkage with vinyl tape?
nope just had to make traces a little wider then designed to take care of kerf @@MancaveEffects
Man I feel your pain it’s crazy how the su regulate everything
I understand that the laser is burning off the rest of the copper to create isolated circuits but what is the spray paint for? Would the laser not burn the copper off without it?
The laser burns away the spraypaint to reveal the copper that will be etched away later on. The copper under the spraypaint will resist the etching process.
How do you burn away the copper without also turning the surface of the board to carbon (a conductor)?
Wouldn't you burn the copper away that's not needed leaving just the traces? Or can't the CO2 laser burn Copper away?
From what I'm seeing in other videos, burning the copper away also burns the PC board, as in, turns the surface to carbon, also known as a resistor, so all your traces are shorted together.
Congrats!
Thanks nice pcb .. do you have schematic ?
Does it blinks auto ?
The layout is from Bigclivedotcom a great youtube channel about electronics. He calls it the super computer. They are basicly self blinking leds you can order in china via ebay.
Cheers
I'd call it a failure, seeing how good the results can be in the home shop when using UV resist. I'd imagine UV resist could easily be exposed with the now-prevalent 10W/20W 400nm blue diode laser engravers. The chemicals required for working with UV resist are pretty tame (sodium hydroxide for developing, sodium persulfate for etching, acetone for cleaning).
However, if you want to test again with paint and a CO2 laser, I'd imagine a makeshift spincoater could help getting a consistent and very thin coating that is easier to burn away.
Kikad?? Coreldraw?? Death wish??
Is Death wish open source? 😂🤣
@@MancaveEffects 😂🤣🤣
Strg : DE keyboard ...:)