1/12 TAMIYA HONDA RC213v 2016 with topstudio super detail-up set Build #1 제작기 #1
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- Опубликовано: 19 окт 2024
- 1/12 TAMIYA HONDA RC213v 2016 with topstudio super detail-up set Build #1 제작기 #1
키트에 대한 소개와 디테일업의 방법을 소개하고있습니다.
I am introducing the kit and how to do detail-up
#tamiya #honda #unboxing #rc213v #redbull #motogp #Marquez
![Tamiya 1/12 Scale Kawasaki Ninja H2 Carbon 조립과 도색 풀영상[PlaMo]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/G9FfE_M9Rio/mqdefault.jpg)
아이고야 진짜 탈 인간급 인정인정입니다 대단합니다
감사합니다~아직 부족한부분이 많아서 노력하고 있습니다 ㅎㅎ
Can you tell me the paint you used on the fairings and the wheels? Did you use the tamiya TS-96 and TS-36? Are the wheels painted the same color as the fairings?
The fluorescent orange used for the fairing and wheel did not use Tamiya's paint, but Mr. Color's (Gunze) fluorescent orange paint.
@Dollpy- bike modeller thanks for the info. Great work. Your bikes are top-notch.
@@sonotover I still lack a lot, but thank you very much for your kind words.
it`s a shame that i cannot get IPP paints in the UK
IPP paint has good cost performance, but the coloring is better with Mr. Color Gunze (Creos)
41:05 the detail is insane man.
I still have a lot of shortcomings, but thank you for your kind words, friend!
6:18 그렇군요... 결국 디테일업 하려면 양쪽 다 있긴 해야하는 군요. 돈 들어가는 ㅠㅠ 참, 인터넷 커뮤니티 같은 곳에는 조용히 작품 만드시는 분들 중에 메탈 에칭 파트를 손수 만드시는 은둔 고수분들이 있던데, 보통은 개인이 만들지는 못하죠? 질산 같은 위험한 물질을 취급해야해서...
카울을 덮어서 하실거면 사실 하비디자인 하나로도 충분합니다. 카울을 벗겨서 따로 전시하려고 했을때가 비용이 많이 들죠 ㅎㅎ 개인이 만드는 메탈에칭파츠 저도 BMW HP4 개인이 만든 에칭을 카페에서 보긴했는데 구매하고싶다고해도 대답도 안하고 무시하던데요ㅎㅎ 뭐 자기들끼리 쓰려나보다 생각하고 그뒤로는 아예 관심도 안둡니다
❤❤
thankyou my friend!
21:02 Ah! I should have used thin liquid glue and taken my chances. :D
Failed to control power.. lol
잘봤습니다 디테일업하시는거는 흉내도 못내겠네요^^; 그런데 혹시 레드불데칼들어가는 곳에 짙은 파란색은 어떤 도료 사용하셨는지 알려주실 수 있을까요??
감사합니다~ 파란색은 IPP 레이싱블루 8 유광블랙2 비율로 조색해서 사용했습니다~
@@dollpy-bikemodeller 감사합니다^^데칼은 사두었는데 엄두가 안나네요ㅎㅎ
@@윤형석-p1c 데칼적용은 뭐 쉽습니다 ㅎㅎ 제작해보세요~
I'm confused why you would spend so much money and time and still leave mold parting lines on lots of parts. You spend 50-100 hours on these or more, what's another hour to eliminate the unsightly seams? You have the skills to make it virtually flawless.
I am also sympathetic. I'm trying to get rid of the mold dividing line with sandpaper, but it's still not enough. Sometimes I find it after painting it, and I think it's because I'm in a hurry. We will work harder to achieve better results.
I'm building this kit right now (using both detail sets) after not building a static kit for almost 40 years. Mold lines are easy enough to remove but filling the seams in the engine is a not. I used Mr Cement SP applied to the inside of the engine parts and was left with a very slight line at the seams. I'm filling it with Tamiya white putty thinned with lacquer thinner and it seems to be working well...I'm waiting for the first pass to dry now. It's quite time consuming but I hope it will be worth the effort. Next time I'll cement these parts together with thin sprue goo so it (hopefully) leaves a raised line at the seam which can be sanded off very easily and minimal filling will be required.