My son is now fairly lazy when it comes to modding, he usually says " that's what I have you for" when I suggest he mod something himself! My dad taught me to solder, plus the basics of simple circuits, rest I learnt by making things.
How would the circuit look like running the flywheels and pusher on seperate circuits in dead center? I'm thinking something like a Stryfe diagram with an additional one with just dead center, but I'm pretty clueless at circuitry and would want something that definitely works.
There is no point in separating the circuits, batteries take up more space than anything else , so having two is much worse than one proper one. If you are getting a mismatch between pusher and flywheel motors then change one or the other for better ones.
If you run lipo or a nimh pack there are no power constraints. Given a decent lipo can power 3 high current brushless motors and still fit in the RS you are unlikely to have a problem with any regular mods.
There hasn't been a solvent welded batch since the first month of release. I have built at least 20 since then, not one was solvent welded. If it's a white stripe XD one there is no chance it's welded, you have to undo all the screws, even the ones in the battery box area and the one through the middle of the ring sight. In the highly unlikely event that you have a solvent welded one you need to drill two holes VERY CAREFULLY through part of the shell by the pusher, if you mess it up you will destroy the pusher. I have a picture somewhere but would honestly recommend selling on a solvent welded one and getting a new one instead.
It's stock motors so a 2s. I use this one for all my 2s builds from stock motors to XP180's. www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9941__ZIPPY_Flightmax_2200mAh_2S1P_40C.html
You have missed a screw somewhere- the ones in the ORANGE parts of the battery box need to come out, as does the one on the flip up sight. It's possible you have a solvent welded one, but unlikely unless you got it in the first two weeks of release. If checking the screws doesn't work drop by Britnerf or Nerf Reddit and someone will help you sort it.
Foamdata Services I didn't get mine within 2 weeks of release but some of the screws are solvent welded (I think) because none of my screw drivers will open it (a couple of the screw drivers are perfect fit)
This wiring method is good for any battery voltage. Switches are rated to 250v. 18 AWG multi strand hobby wire is 20-30A and 16 AWG is 30-40A. If you are running 180's then use 16AWG for at least the three main battery and flywheel wires that run front to back.
Nice work mate very in depth & informative. You got another subscriber.
Thanks L.A.Y.T
Part two hopefully finished for Wednesday.
ur the coolest dad ever, I wish my dad would mod with me.
My son is now fairly lazy when it comes to modding, he usually says " that's what I have you for" when I suggest he mod something himself! My dad taught me to solder, plus the basics of simple circuits, rest I learnt by making things.
How would the circuit look like running the flywheels and pusher on seperate circuits in dead center? I'm thinking something like a Stryfe diagram with an additional one with just dead center, but I'm pretty clueless at circuitry and would want something that definitely works.
There is no point in separating the circuits, batteries take up more space than anything else , so having two is much worse than one proper one. If you are getting a mismatch between pusher and flywheel motors then change one or the other for better ones.
That was mainly for power constraints, and in that case, I'll just find a better pack. Thanks for your input.
If you run lipo or a nimh pack there are no power constraints. Given a decent lipo can power 3 high current brushless motors and still fit in the RS you are unlikely to have a problem with any regular mods.
Should have worded that better. All the packs I have can't power a build I'm set on, my bad.
when opening the blaster some rapidstrikes have glue on the pusher unit and cant open it how do i fix this
There hasn't been a solvent welded batch since the first month of release. I have built at least 20 since then, not one was solvent welded. If it's a white stripe XD one there is no chance it's welded, you have to undo all the screws, even the ones in the battery box area and the one through the middle of the ring sight. In the highly unlikely event that you have a solvent welded one you need to drill two holes VERY CAREFULLY through part of the shell by the pusher, if you mess it up you will destroy the pusher. I have a picture somewhere but would honestly recommend selling on a solvent welded one and getting a new one instead.
Ok, im in CAD and our gun policy are strict im ot sure which ones are glued or not but i dont want to drill holes in my gun ;l
i dont have 1 im just worried on getting 1
+Turb Plays Well you just need to get a white stripe one
Cost more and since im painting its a waste the lipo/charger are expensive as is
What LiPo would you recommend for this rapidstrike???
It's stock motors so a 2s. I use this one for all my 2s builds from stock motors to XP180's.
www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9941__ZIPPY_Flightmax_2200mAh_2S1P_40C.html
thanks
Mod Squad it depends on the motors
Mod Squad us a 3s for 130s
my Rapidstrike doesn't open
You have missed a screw somewhere- the ones in the ORANGE parts of the battery box need to come out, as does the one on the flip up sight. It's possible you have a solvent welded one, but unlikely unless you got it in the first two weeks of release. If checking the screws doesn't work drop by Britnerf or Nerf Reddit and someone will help you sort it.
Foamdata Services I didn't get mine within 2 weeks of release but some of the screws are solvent welded (I think) because none of my screw drivers will open it (a couple of the screw drivers are perfect fit)
Weird. Cant fix it from here sorry!
Foamdata Services I just realized who replied to me... It's an honor
Can this operate with a 3s lipo
This wiring method is good for any battery voltage. Switches are rated to 250v. 18 AWG multi strand hobby wire is 20-30A and 16 AWG is 30-40A. If you are running 180's then use 16AWG for at least the three main battery and flywheel wires that run front to back.
do u have a circuitry diagram?
+Turb Plays Its on the BSUK web page.
Also several variations here-
torukmakto4.blogspot.co.uk/2015/06/tech-rapidstrike-control-circuits-part-1.html
Foamdata Services could you do simular for a stampede in the future?
Yes, I have a full BSUK kit on the bench Rob, just waiting for time to do it.
Thats brilliant as i am waiting for someone to do it before i order mine.