I'm in South East Australia which is the cold part, where I live we have snow in winter and these tractors to have a reputation of being difficult to start when cold mainly when it's below 5C, the petrol 35 starts at a flick of a key, with the invention of the heat gun it would be good if there was a way you could incorporate something like that into the manifold because someone told me that you can start them with one. The 135 Multipower we have has the cold start heat bulb disconnected and it will start at around 0C no problems.
Hello Peter, first of all thanks for your entry from Southeast Australia, now the 135 Massey Ferguson is a 3 cylinder Perkins engine with direct injection. These engines were newly developed after the 23 C started so badly and have no starting problems. The 23 C engine is a pre-chamber injector. The pre-chamber injector loses a lot of temperature due to its injection and turbulence in the pre-chamber, so that you often have to start it for a very long time when it is cold. I have already worked with the warm air postole in my videos and warmed up all the paths of the air before the start, I also added the flame glow plug for about 40 seconds so that the warm air helps when starting. It is ideal if you have glow plugs with a 14X1.25 mm threaded hole or 10 x1 mm threaded hole. There are also quick glow plugs in 8 seconds. make a start at the FE possible. If you look at my videos you can see a video where I do a start with a FE test engine at -16 C^°. All the best and have fun with your Fergy and MF 135.
@@kevsvintagetractorrepair Danke für den netten Kommentar. Der 23C Motor ist ein legendärer und überaus starker Motor wenn alles gut eingestellt ist. Der Motor ist nach über 60 Jahren bei allen Fergyfans gefragt . Alles Gute ,deine Videos sind sehr interessant und 23C Liebhaber wichtiger denn je .
Hi, thanks for the kind words, well I'm not the specialist for the TE 20 although I think the predecessor of the FE 35 is great. You can't specialize everywhere. The FE should remain a hobby that is fun. Wishing you all the best .
Thanks ,it's easy when you know where . it's the first time i found something on this issue and i looked hard . Thanks again. i reckon there's a general setting up tool in the factory that sits on the pump housing flange (three bolt end ) or maybe they just set it all up using the pump markings with the pump in place .. anyway your way works well . Great stuff .
Good videos mate, got timing done nicely. Only problem I had is I had timed the cam with no 1 on tdc, which is when cylinder no 4 is rocking. What you've done isn't tdc on number one, it's tdc on no 4 if the valves are rocking on no 1. Basically it was 1 turn out. So when no 1 is on tdc on FIRING stroke then it's not G in the pump you can see, it's C. G is when 4 is firing and one is rocking if you see what I mean 😂😂
Hi there, just watched your video and thought it was very clear but a couple of questions if I may? Is there only 1 hole on the flywheel that is used for 16degrees before tdc or are there others that could trip you up? And a gentleman has commented saying that it was one rotation out, does that mean you would move the master spline to compensate? Many thanks and again, great vid!
👌good video straight forward as a step by step guide to fitting a pump will done👍
Thank you.
I'm in South East Australia which is the cold part, where I live we have snow in winter and these tractors to have a reputation of being difficult to start when cold mainly when it's below 5C, the petrol 35 starts at a flick of a key, with the invention of the heat gun it would be good if there was a way you could incorporate something like that into the manifold because someone told me that you can start them with one. The 135 Multipower we have has the cold start heat bulb disconnected and it will start at around 0C no problems.
Thank you for your comment, when I get to fitting the engine I will be doing a little video on that subject.
Hello Peter, first of all thanks for your entry from Southeast Australia, now the 135 Massey Ferguson is a 3 cylinder Perkins engine with direct injection. These engines were newly developed after the 23 C started so badly and have no starting problems. The 23 C engine is a pre-chamber injector. The pre-chamber injector loses a lot of temperature due to its injection and turbulence in the pre-chamber, so that you often have to start it for a very long time when it is cold. I have already worked with the warm air postole in my videos and warmed up all the paths of the air before the start, I also added the flame glow plug for about 40 seconds so that the warm air helps when starting. It is ideal if you have glow plugs with a 14X1.25 mm threaded hole or 10 x1 mm threaded hole. There are also quick glow plugs in 8 seconds. make a start at the FE possible. If you look at my videos you can see a video where I do a start with a FE test engine at -16 C^°. All the best and have fun with your Fergy and MF 135.
@@Rolf2014 I will check your channel out
@@Peter-Southern-Victoria-Aust ruclips.net/video/QdcQJn3Lpj0/видео.html&feature=share
Brilliant video, your videos are a valuable resource
Glad you like them!
Enjoying these videos. Looking forward to the next one.
Will be coming soon.
Looking forward to seeing the next video 👍
Coming soon!
Sehr gut und sehr wichtig .
Danke für deinen Kommentar, deine Videos sind auch toll.
@@kevsvintagetractorrepair Danke für den netten Kommentar. Der 23C Motor ist ein legendärer und überaus starker Motor wenn alles gut eingestellt ist. Der Motor ist nach über 60 Jahren bei allen Fergyfans gefragt . Alles Gute ,deine Videos sind sehr interessant und 23C Liebhaber wichtiger denn je .
Sehr schönes Video 😊
Great videos. Really enjoying these. Hopefully you'll do some on the TE20s when you're finished the FE35?
Glad you are enjoying them thank you, at some point I will do some other engines.
Hi, thanks for the kind words, well I'm not the specialist for the TE 20 although I think the predecessor of the FE 35 is great. You can't specialize everywhere. The FE should remain a hobby that is fun. Wishing you all the best .
Thanks ,it's easy when you know where . it's the first time i found something on this issue and i looked hard . Thanks again. i reckon there's a general setting up tool in the factory that sits on the pump housing flange (three bolt end ) or maybe they just set it all up using the pump markings with the pump in place .. anyway your way works well . Great stuff .
Glad it worked out for you.
Good videos mate, got timing done nicely. Only problem I had is I had timed the cam with no 1 on tdc, which is when cylinder no 4 is rocking. What you've done isn't tdc on number one, it's tdc on no 4 if the valves are rocking on no 1. Basically it was 1 turn out. So when no 1 is on tdc on FIRING stroke then it's not G in the pump you can see, it's C. G is when 4 is firing and one is rocking if you see what I mean 😂😂
Hi just trying to understand this. What piston needs to be rocking 1 or 4?
These are quality videos. Would like to see one on a petrol 35
May be one day if I can find an engine.
Hi there, just watched your video and thought it was very clear but a couple of questions if I may? Is there only 1 hole on the flywheel that is used for 16degrees before tdc or are there others that could trip you up?
And a gentleman has commented saying that it was one rotation out, does that mean you would move the master spline to compensate?
Many thanks and again, great vid!
I need the oil pump and the engine oil filter, how can I get them from you boss
Hi what cylinder needs to be rocking? Is it 1 or 4?
Can we buy rebuild kits in the uk from the US?
Hi if you contact Emmark uk Ltd they will be able to help you.