Your top shock mount is mounted upside down. That's why the car is probably still setting too high. You need to remove the RED upper shock mount. Then you have to cut out some material and make the opening larger, so that the shock mount will fit up inside the hole after you flip it around. If you don't believe me, ask BMR. Their instructions are a little vague but I believe they tell you that you will have to cut out metal to get the shock mount to fit. As far as the shock adjustment knob, I had the same problem and that was over a year ago. So, obviously, their quality control is still lacking.I noticed that you didn't install the adjustable toe links. I would install those before you go get it aligned. I hope this helps you out.
I appreciate the info! Makes sense why the car was so jacked up high. I was reading the install instructions and saw the part about trimming the metal. I put the upper shock mount on and was like "hey no trimming needed!" 😂😂
@@The1st60ft Yeah they look like that's the way they should go. You'll be much happier with the results. And the shocks will be at the correct angle too. There is another person on RUclips that did the same thing. BMR needs to clarify their instructions. Installing the BMR polyurethane sub cradle and differential bushings should help with deflection too. Keep the videos coming. Hope to see another video on how your car sits and if the mods improve your performance.
Also, another thing that may help is setting you sway bar while the suspension is loaded with the weight of your car. Disconnect your sway bar links, put the car on a flat surface, then put the links back on. This will make sure your sway bar is at 0 until the car torques and requires sway bar correction. I hope this makes sense.
Thanks man! I did tight the lower sway bar end links with the suspension loaded. I didn't know where to set my adjustable end links so I just made them the same length as the stock ones 🤷♂️
Good to see you upgrading the suspension! I had the cradle bushings replaced with pfdat metal bushings and BMR traling arms and non adjustable toe rods in the rear. My car is pulling hard to the left on launch and I recently noticed my new comp 2 streets are worn on the inside of the tires ..made me sick! I had firestone do my alignment and believe they dropped the ball on me and will have to replace my rear tires now . The lower control arm in that kit you have is for lowered cars , I guess the springs in the kit with the coilovers accomplished that for you . Will you go with lighter springs in the front and have double adjustable shocks for rebound and compression ? Suspension stuff is mad science lol . you inspire me Sir!
Thank you for the support! Yeah Firestone sucks! I've had bad experiences with them. I found a local tire shop that does alignments and they set the rear specs for me to BMR recommendations. I wanna see how it does with this setup but yes next is to get front Coilovers and a Tubular K-Member
I have the same kit you’re going to love being able to run 15” wheels and tires. I haven’t really dialed in the shocks for the street. It’s all very stiff. Let us know if you find some smooth settings.
Right now I'm driving around on setting 2 of 9 on bump and rebound with sway bar on softest setting. It's pretty smooth. I went over a speed bump the other day (only driving over it with the left tires) and the front went over like normal but when the rear went over it caught me by surprise how it felt alot more like a solid axle car with that sway bar doing its job.
Hey brother,were you able to get that bracket flipped over and have you been able to test and tune her yet? I am curious as to find out if your are still running OEM struts up front as well . If so how do you like the set up ? Thanks in advance!
Hey! No unfortunately not. The weather as ruined every track day 😒 now 1 of 2 tracks are closed for the season and the last day for the 2nd track is this Saturday and guess what, it's calling for Rain 🌧 😑 I am still on the OEM front Struts but I just removed the Front Sway Bar to see if I can get a little more lift. I wanted to get some passes with the new Rear Suspension then focus on the Front Suspension
@@The1st60ft I feel ya man . There are things I still need to get done on mine too that's prevented me from anymore track time this season. Disconnecting the front sway bar should help . If you were able to put some coilvers up front to give you some adjustable rebound and compression then you should be able to dial her into your liking. Keeping an eye out for your progress..good luck man !
Авто/Мото
Your top shock mount is mounted upside down. That's why the car is probably still setting too high. You need to remove the RED upper shock mount. Then you have to cut out some material and make the opening larger, so that the shock mount will fit up inside the hole after you flip it around. If you don't believe me, ask BMR. Their instructions are a little vague but I believe they tell you that you will have to cut out metal to get the shock mount to fit. As far as the shock adjustment knob, I had the same problem and that was over a year ago. So, obviously, their quality control is still lacking.I noticed that you didn't install the adjustable toe links. I would install those before you go get it aligned. I hope this helps you out.
I appreciate the info! Makes sense why the car was so jacked up high. I was reading the install instructions and saw the part about trimming the metal. I put the upper shock mount on and was like "hey no trimming needed!" 😂😂
@@The1st60ft Yeah they look like that's the way they should go. You'll be much happier with the results. And the shocks will be at the correct angle too. There is another person on RUclips that did the same thing. BMR needs to clarify their instructions. Installing the BMR polyurethane sub cradle and differential bushings should help with deflection too. Keep the videos coming. Hope to see another video on how your car sits and if the mods improve your performance.
This is so awesome. Congratulations. Loved my bmr setup for road racing can't wait to see what you do with this
Also, another thing that may help is setting you sway bar while the suspension is loaded with the weight of your car. Disconnect your sway bar links, put the car on a flat surface, then put the links back on. This will make sure your sway bar is at 0 until the car torques and requires sway bar correction. I hope this makes sense.
Thanks man! I did tight the lower sway bar end links with the suspension loaded. I didn't know where to set my adjustable end links so I just made them the same length as the stock ones 🤷♂️
Looks way better under there now! 🔥
Definitely!
Another banger 🔥 Very Informative
Thanks man!
Good to see you upgrading the suspension! I had the cradle bushings replaced with pfdat metal bushings and BMR traling arms and non adjustable toe rods in the rear. My car is pulling hard to the left on launch and I recently noticed my new comp 2 streets are worn on the inside of the tires ..made me sick! I had firestone do my alignment and believe they dropped the ball on me and will have to replace my rear tires now . The lower control arm in that kit you have is for lowered cars , I guess the springs in the kit with the coilovers accomplished that for you . Will you go with lighter springs in the front and have double adjustable shocks for rebound and compression ? Suspension stuff is mad science lol . you inspire me Sir!
Thank you for the support! Yeah Firestone sucks! I've had bad experiences with them. I found a local tire shop that does alignments and they set the rear specs for me to BMR recommendations. I wanna see how it does with this setup but yes next is to get front Coilovers and a Tubular K-Member
You need to go back and redo your upper coil over bracket you put it in upside down it sits inside the frame it's number 6 on the instructions
Thanks I appreciate the help!
I have the same kit you’re going to love being able to run 15” wheels and tires. I haven’t really dialed in the shocks for the street. It’s all very stiff. Let us know if you find some smooth settings.
Right now I'm driving around on setting 2 of 9 on bump and rebound with sway bar on softest setting. It's pretty smooth. I went over a speed bump the other day (only driving over it with the left tires) and the front went over like normal but when the rear went over it caught me by surprise how it felt alot more like a solid axle car with that sway bar doing its job.
I have a stock 5th gen suspension will this suspension help speed from a roll???
Hey brother,were you able to get that bracket flipped over and have you been able to test and tune her yet? I am curious as to find out if your are still running OEM struts up front as well . If so how do you like the set up ? Thanks in advance!
Hey! No unfortunately not. The weather as ruined every track day 😒 now 1 of 2 tracks are closed for the season and the last day for the 2nd track is this Saturday and guess what, it's calling for Rain 🌧 😑 I am still on the OEM front Struts but I just removed the Front Sway Bar to see if I can get a little more lift. I wanted to get some passes with the new Rear Suspension then focus on the Front Suspension
@@The1st60ft I feel ya man . There are things I still need to get done on mine too that's prevented me from anymore track time this season. Disconnecting the front sway bar should help .
If you were able to put some coilvers up front to give you some adjustable rebound and compression then you should be able to dial her into your liking. Keeping an eye out for your progress..good luck man !
the top coil over mount is upside down
How is the clearance on the grease fitting on the rear lower control arm? Any contact with the frame?
No it's good. No issues
Just wondering what the part number eas. I see theres another option..thanks.
DRP354
@@The1st60ft Ah
..that's the one I'm ordering.
I’m in PA, and would love to hook up and talk 5th gen’s!
Hit me up man, @jut_jitsu_lucas on Instagram and Justin Klrgoat on Facebook
😢 քʀօʍօֆʍ