I remember the first time I opened a hood and seen a plactic intake and thought, 'there goes the days of good ol motors' whats up with building motors with plastic parts anyway, bunch of cheap basxxxx's..what everyones take on the ford 4.0 SOHC, 3 tining chains running through plastic guide and rail 'cassettes'' sad.or Dodge building the most rrestrictive air inntake that looks like a half of a beer keg. The future of cars is getting bleak.....I came up in the 60's and 70's, best era ever for cars and we had the best music too......lol
@@jamesmoore3346 Agreed on best music! Can't go with you on best cars. I love old muscle like the next guy but nowadays, cars are soooooo much more reliable and run so much better for so much longer than ever. In the old days, 100,000 miles was considered high mileage. Now? 100,000 miles is just getting broken in. (I decided to change my spark plugs at 175,000 miles because I figured "damn...they gotta be worn!" They were like new except for obvious discoloration). 300,000 miles on my 08 6.0liter. I've changed the broken exhaust manifold bolts and the shrunken oil pickup tube o-ring. Still has original water pump, alternator, fan clutch, fuel pump, front brakes, starter, muffler, exhaust manifolds, transmission, rear diff, PS pump etc. Never touched the ice cold A/C! BY FAR THE BEST VEHICLE I HAVE EVER OWNED!
@@jamesmoore3346 aluminum intakes leak air because of large pores in the aluminum, so they switch to plastic, so the mass air flow sensor can do a better job of keeping up with the amount of air that going into the engine. back in the 80's and 90's the carmakers would coat the inside of the aluminum intakes with some kind substance not sure what it was, but it sealed the intakes better from leaking vacuum.
I have an 04 Tahoe 5.3 2wd. It was making a clicking (sounded like a U joint originally but got louder) from under the hood. It got louder when accelerating and would follow shifts. Playing with drive reverse neutral on up and down hill changed the sound or made it go away. If it was gone and I put it in reverse still gone, let it roll on the brake and it’d come back, drive and let it roll it’s gone again. Then a week ago driving 45 uphill something snapped. No power to the transmission and weird noises, rolled it to a stop quickly, still running but chuggin. To park and it made a slam so I turned it off. tell me how to fix it. I’m desperate. I changed the trans myself 9 months ago, and I don’t want to do any unnecessary work. But I want to save it and not do a full engine like everyone is advising. Thanks!! UPDATE: it sounds like lifter tick!! But I let it go farther than all the videos I’ve seen. What do I do!
When we had to do knock sensors, we put a good amount of high temp rtv around the gaps of the sensors to keep any debris out of the sensor wells. It's incredible how much gunk gets caught in that area.
I've had my Silverado for 11 years with the original 5.3, 398,000 miles and haven't had any of these problems. It's been the best truck I've ever owned.
I have 365,000 on my 2000 5.3, it's only had a rear main seal replacement, rear end rebuild and front end rebuild. Everything else is stock, I still tow my 7,500 pound camping trailer and gear about 15 times a year with no problem at all.
im a personal mechanic and i cant stand most car repair channels.. you talk quiet and calm and make a point with almost every sentence.. ive had the little AC belt pop off and i had to pull my cluster and re solder the micro transistors because it kept going on and off randomly.. great video..
Hate to complain about videos because some people get good out of them. But some of the videos involve nothing more than idiocy and teach all kinds of bad stuff. Embarrassing sometimes.
Thank you for giving the average cost to repair each problem you spoke about. Most people do not give prices they just point out problems. You have gained a new subscriber!
I think older ones. Not sure about new ones. Seems those have gremlins. Me and my parents have high mileage trucks. Burn oil. But never let us down. My dad already hit 500k last month.
Common issue number 11. Engine is consuming oil, and burning it out the exhaust. Fix: Replace the drivers side valve cover with the updated valve cover from GM. There is a problem with the baffling. It allows oil to be sucked up into the intake via the pcv port. This happens in these engine with 100,000+ miles on it.
@@lexbrusb.1821 I’ve reap a couple forums where most stated in was in the 07+ because the PCV is integrated into the valve cover if I’m not mistaken. My 02 suburban has the Pcv separate from the valve cover
Just bought a very nice '01 one owner Suburban with 297,000 miles. It had an oil change done 500 miles before I bought. I've owned excellent 6 days and noticed 2 quarts low on oil. No cold start or any drivability issues. I'll change the valve cover and see.
Great video. I just bought one of my old work trucks from our company. 04 2500 hd w 6.0.The motor has 240k but runs good. Truck is straight and drives well. Interior shot but brand new now with a bunch of sweat equity and new seat cushions and covers. Dash was in pieces which was fun to find a replacement for but i did. It'll be my get, out of dodge and hit the woods truck for the rest of my life.
Nice video! I have a 2002 Avalanche that had 16.000 miles when I bought her. She now has 250.000 miles and still runs like a Swiss clock! Thank God I’ve never experienced any of the issues that were brought up in the video. Around 5 years ago I replaced the original alternator, and I still have the original starter that most people I tell don’t believe. I was very blessed to have this truck. Nothing major just wear and tear items! Thanks for sharing 😎👍
these are high mile issues my 4.8 vortec has 400 000k I had a waterpump leak and 3 manifold bolts broke I say very reliable engines and it still runs like new..
Yup, 325k on my 02 Silverado 5.3ltr. Starts every time I turn the key. A few of the problems he's mentioned, but minor inexpensive stuff. Great motors.
Thanks a bunch! I've had most of these as I own or have owned 4 of these high mileage trucks. A few more for this list-- the rear exhaust manifold bolts break off. Remove rest of bolts and either remove manifold or pull it back. Weld a nut on the broken threads in the head, wait a minute, then twist out and replace with new bolts and gaskets. Also, the T fittings on the heater core leak. Replace with the Delco ones; the Dorman ones are absolute crap. Finally, replace the brake lines with the stainless kit. Don't wait until you're in a cornfield or under a semi.
I have owned over 100 vehicles in My life and now have a 2001 tahoe that I've owned for 5 years and it is the best vehicle I have ever owned. 5.3 with 235,000 miles and runs like a new car !!! Change oil every 3,000 miles and drive it like I stoke it.
Here's another VERY common issue you can add to your list: Oil pressure gauge indicates 80psi, engine on or off. Often times the sensor is also leaking. The false reading is due to a faulty oil pressure sending unit, which sits on the top of the eng. block, driver's side, behind the intake manif., right next to the firewall. A real pain in the ass to get to, but can be reached by disconnecting the fuel line quick disconnect. Repair shops might tell you the intake manif. has to come off, but it doesn't. Reaching the sensor requires a 3/8ths or 1/2-inch drive extension with a 1&1/16th" deep socket to fit over the sensor. Oh, and a flashlight and mirror would also help to see what you're doing. Be prepared to lay on top of the engine (after having removed the eng. cover) and muster up all the patience you have. You'll need it!
I just had to replace my difficult oil pressure sensor on my 6 L vortec on my 2005 Hummer H2. Had to do the same thing except taking off the fuel rail but I had to unbolt the latch mechanism for the hood and put it out of the way because the hoods on Hummer H2S open forward like old Corvettes.
Just replaced mine. My oil guage went from 80psi down to almost 0psi. Did some research on youtube and found out I need an O ring tube. Once I install the o ring my oil pressure was normal
As the original owner of a 2003 Suburban with 84, 000 miles, your video helped me understand the non-fill issue with the gas tank. Thanks and keep up the great information.
#11. Oil pressure sending unit screen. Back of the engine, pull the sender out, clean the screen, re-install. If you're OP suddenly dumps low or zero...with no noise or other sign(as in there's oil) then it's almost ALWAYS the sender. You do need a special socket to remove but they're cheap and the job takes about 15 min once you get the socket/elbows figured out for your particular model!
I have a 2005 Tahoe with the 5.3 ( LM7) engine. My oil pressure stays normal until I step on the gas. The oil pressure drops to zero and stays at zero. Check Engine Light does not come on and " Low Oil Pressure" does not illuminate on the dash. I have no idea what could be wrong. Engine doesn't seem to make noise either when this happens. Maybe a little tick but I have to really listen and pay attention. Any ideas? This generation of engine doesn't have the screen around the oil pressure sensor
I'm building a 6.0 right now. The rear knock sensor was toast, sitting in 2" of water. Both rear manifold bolts were broken off. This is a good top 10 list. These motors are so easy to work on and parts are relatively cheap. Oh yeah, hello from KC!
When you find a good mechanic, sometimes you gotta keep your trap shut, but if needed I will testify that man clearly jumped in back of your truck. Great video as always, thank you.
As I was watching the video I was thinking these are all minor problems compared to the Ford 5.4 ltr. I have an 02 Silverado with the 5.3 and it's been great. Currently 320k on the original motor, trans and rear end. Pretty much the entire truck is original. I've replaced the entire braking system except the lines, but other than that, almost nothing. Inner tie rods and the Pitman arm were replaced at 240k. All of the rest of the steering & suspension components are still original including the ball joints. The a/c compressor went out at 290k. Best vehicle I've ever owned, bar none.
@@trizkial7592 well yeah, they came out around the same time and were used for the same purposes, I wouldn't call it a wild comparison. Any older ford v8s are absolute dinosaurs
Good video. A couple things I would add though. 1. The abs, e brake lights are also often caused by wheel hubs going bad. 2. If you live anywhere where they salt roads CHECK YOUR BRAKE LINES! These trucks are notorious for the brake lines rotting out. Other than whats mentioned in the video and these two things they are good trucks!
Yep. We own lots of the 99-03 Silverados and we have had the oil pickup tube o-ring, exhaust manifold bolts, knock sensors, abs control module, a/c belt tensioner, gauge cluster and ground wire. This guy knows his stuff!
Excellent video. I'm a chevy truck fan and owner. I've had 7 trucks with LS and I've had all of the problems mentioned. Not all the problems in all the trucks, some problems in some trucks, and some in others. Usually not so difficult to solve and not expensive. But sometimes it was difficult to diagnose, wished I've seen this video some years ago, jajaja.
Great video for people who drive these vehicles/5.3 by GM. These are very common issues that are fairly easy/cheap to repair, but some people will sell a vehicle cheaper just from these issues being misdiagnosed.
On the evap issue it could also be that the previous owner replaced the fuel pump but when he reinstalled the gas tank back up he missed the two vent hoses which get trapped in between the gas tank and gas tank strap. Always keep an eye on the vent hoses when reinstalling a gas tank back on if not you’ll get a check engine code that calls for an evap issue!.
I know the topic was 10 things about the motor one thing I'd like to add very common and those model years 99 through 2006 even early 2007 the transfer case inside there is a bushing that rubs a hole through the case and you lose fluid. There is an aftermarket fix for this it is a much beef ear spacer that is used in does not have sharp corners it has rounded corners so it does not wear the hole through the case. Had to replace my transfer case at a 150000 miles due to previous owner liked using the auto 4 wheel drive which destroys these cases. If you own a 4 wheel drive do not use the auto 4 wheel drive either select for high or for low if needed do not use the auto 4 wheel drive. Thank you wizard love the channel really enjoy the dry humor.
I just replaced my transfer case with one from the junkyard for $400. I rebuilt the old one for $500 in parts, so I will have a spare one in the shed. It was actually really easy to rebuild myself!
I kept coming back to this video since I own one of these so that I can tackle some of the issues. Maybe it helps you guys too. #1. Intake gasket. # 2. Knock sensor # 3. Oil cooler line block 2mm bolts/gasket # 4. O-ring by # 5. Hot AC. Tiny tensioner by cerpentine belt # 6. Evap vent dirty. # 7. Gage cluster out of whack. Bad cluster. # 8. Abs and brake light. Bad abs control module. # 9 & 10. Ground wire under driver seat goes bad. Bolt by manifold.
The premature fuel pump problem on these trucks is due to people driving with tank too empty. The fuel pump needs fuel in order to cool itself. Many people ride the “e” with the gas gauge. Not good on any car
If I'm not mistaken, the fuel issue he's referring to is an issue I've had on my GM vehicles where it is very difficult to pump fuel due to poor venting of the gas tank. The fuel pump pushes fuel out of the tank into the rails/injectors. A bad fuel pump would not dictate an inability to load fuel into the tank. Rather the opposite. When you overfill your gas tank as some people call "topping off", you have spillage into your charcoal canister (also known as the evap canister) usually mounted above the rear differential. It is an activated charcoal canister with a fuel line running in, one running out, and an electronic sensor to detect small/large evap leaks. The activated charcoal comes in contact with gasoline, shrinks, and then gets caught in the lines running to the gas tank, thereby clogging the inlet and making it very difficult to pump fuel. Edit: This can be solved by dropping the gas tank via the two straps, removing the lines, and blowing them out with compressed air to remove the charcoal bits. A bad charcoal canister can be diagnosed by taking it off of the bracket and turning it upside down. If charcoal spills out, it is bad. It comes from GM and aftermarket manufacturers (I've had both) with a fiberglass layer inside of the canister to prevent the beads from running through the lines. I only figured this out after replacing the canister, vent valve, vent valve solenoid, and the purge valve. Another dummy test would be a faulty o-ring in the gas cap... always buy OEM for safety systems.
I've had about 8 of these problems on my Chevy Suburbans. I own two. They have been cheap reliable vehicles that I am able to work on to get us down the road.
Great video. Not major issues but what he said is right on point. With my 2001 Silverado 5.3L, I had the intake manifold gasket cause my RPMs to high at the red light to the point I had to keep my foot on the brake harder than usual. I installed the higher quality gasket and it has driven smooth for thousands of mile now. Knock sensors are still fine at 227K miles. Exhaust bolts broken on both sides in the back. ABS module on occasion shows up on dash. A/C stopped in summer after 20 years in service. Just the service ports were leaking, replaced and serviced. Fuel dash indicator jumps up and down, from factory, until I changed the fuel pump/ sending unit. Everything else is just normal wear and maintenance. Easy to work on and just simple fixes. Still get 18MPGs. Great truck. I love it and wish they could make these new with jjst a few upgrades and fixes.
Hi Mr Car wizard you forgot to include the front wheel hub bearings and brake calipers, slides ,. Unless you grease them when you do a, brake job your in for an experience. If you dont invest in quality hub bearings for replacement for example Timken or Moog your in for a replacement again within 60 O00 miles.. Currently I have over 375 000 miles on the engine original waterpump and clutch fan. The starter just stopped, working yesterday. I haven't been in the engine but.it runs great. I have rebuilt a 4.8 waiting when the engines decides to give up. I agree they are good engines change the oil and routine maintaince and the stay strong . I kept seeing a drip from around the the, oil filter. The gasket on the knock off plate is next to be fixed. Excellent video keep up the great work.
One little tip with the manifold bolts the ones that are broken you can typically weld a nut onto the broken stud even if they are flush with the head and take the broken bolts right out. The heads pop because of the manifold warping. Doing this saves a lot of time!
i just did my instrument cluster.the stepper guages along with new led lights(30--10 white,10 red,10 blue) come in a kit from Amazon.stepper guages get desoldered (do NOT over heat the pads--quick heat with a solder sucker--comes in the kit with solder iron and solder)the transmission shift light goes out--resolder the 2 banks of resistors--under a magnifying glass you will see cracks in the solder.the led lights are POLARITY SENSITIVE.i can give you the layout if you'd like.
OTC makes a tool to disconnect it, and I'm not talking about the ones with the Jesus clips (like the transmission cooling line connector) I ran into this problem last week on a 2015 Silverado with a V6, 4.3 (looks like a mini LS1 I might add, all aluminum) they are 3/4 inch and are a quick connect, it takes an extra deep & thin release tool to get these off 6046 OTC
@@joemonbluesandbbq1438 the aftermarket makes metal elbows to replace those for 10 bux. Overall that engine is pretty great. Agreed that they should have been better from the factory.
These LS engines remind me of the earlier 283 and 350 small blocks. Pure quality machining from GM. My 05 Tahoe will still kiss redline at command with the whirl of a sewing machine. Almost 250k on her.
oldrider steve I literally just sold a 97 formula with 350,000+ on its lt1 and itd scream like the devil was after it. Itd boil the tires off for 2 blocks fishtailing
@@getchasome6230 i have a 96 LT1 Z28 that still has plenty of balls. she will still shread tires. i had the trans rebuilt and upgraded last year, had the better stuff put into it including 2,200 stall converter, shift kit, better bands, spregs, ect ect. the car has 246K on it. runs strong. no im not selling it LOL
@Rick Simpson Yeah here you go ruclips.net/video/IEBiVx8RW1o/видео.html That ford 7.3 looks promising I will say. Chevy is going direct injection while the ford is going back to old school port injection. Apparently the ford 7.3 is a big block even though Ford has not made the big block for years. Gm made the 8.1 liter till 2006 which was a big block but this new 6.6 chevy is based on the small block. Ford may have it beat but both should be good work horses
Exhaust manifold studs break too. My ABS light was on, but was due to brake fluid leaking out of the ABS valve block into the ABS motor. Replaced the block and motor, transferred my module over.
Good list. Thanks. I have been working on a 2000 gm sierra. So far, have had to deal with 4 of the 10. Plus I will add to your list - split rubber elbow boots on the fuel pressure regulator vacuum tube.
Great video, I own one of those Vortec (LS type) engines in my Tahoe. Actually, this is my second Tahoe with the 5.3L and I guess I've lead a charmed life since I have not had any of those issues on my trucks. I wish repair costs here were what you quote on your video! Labor prices here are through the roof! Everyone here in California wants to be a millionaire! lol
Yep, when the cost of a simple 1500 sq foot single family home is approaching $400-500k, everyone about needs to be a millionaire to afford to live here any more. Wait until the drought and water overusage fees this year in 2020.
Thanks David. The production values of your videos are improving all the time. You have a great manner and your information is excellent. Thank you for sharing.
The EVAP vent solenoid, gauge cluster, and EBCM aren't LS-exclusive problems, but common among many GM vehicles. Rest of the video is pretty spot on though.
No mention of the 07-14 AFM/DOD engines. A lot of the same issues plus lifters going bad (mine had a lifter tray cracked and the lifter spun sideways ruining my camshaft, so I deleted my AFM), clogged oil pressure sensor screens, bad oil pressure sensors (I’m on my 3rd one), roller rocker bearings falling apart, etc. Great video wizard. The newer trucks have a much more expensive evap solenoid but with a little modification the older style evap solenoid you showed will plug right in and work as well for $100 less.
Can you do one of these for the 4.3L? I had a 2003 Chevy Astro that was great, I had 394,000 miles on it when I sold it! And it was running fine. I then "upgraded" to a 2014 Chevy Express 1500, thinking since it was the same motor, i'm good for another 300,000+ miles... Well I can tell you that is not going to happen. I've had more problems in the 1st 100,000 miles on the 2014 than I had throughout the entire 400,000 mile lifespan of the 2003... Exhaust leaks, ABS speed sensors, high oil consumption, motor mount issues... I'm sure there's a laundry list of things I'm not remembering. I assumed Chevy had 10 years in between those models to refine and polish their design, that my new model would be like riding on a "bulletproof cloud", but all they done is figure out how to use more plastic and cheaper sheet metal that rusts away if it gets too close to a wet fart! It's ridiculous. The underside of the 2014 looks like it's been rotting in a field for 40 years...
T salinger1026 actually... unfortunately due to displacement on demand(cylinder deactivation) in the 5.3L eco tec v8. The lifters will chip cams. If it wasn’t for that, they would be bullet proof
And if your in rust areas, your looking at fuel and brake lines, the older steel power steering cooler on the radiator, the front wheel bearings going bad/ wheel speed sensors lifting from rust under the shim and engaging the abs at low speeds. Lots of fuel sending units and oil pressure sensors too
2005 Silverado owner here. I have had my cluster rebuilt. There is a guy who does it for $150 in my area. Also when my A/C stopped blowing cold air it was a fuse relay.
hi, The AC going warm on yah it might be also just the Blend Door Actuator that needs to be replaced or even fixed. The ABS light it also might be just the ground wires that needs to be cleaned or the ABS magnetic sensors which are located on each of the wheels that needs to be cleaned or replaced. These are common and easy fixes for problems you mentioned. thank you Wizard for your videos. keep it coming!
You should use a mig welder instead of drilling the broken exhaust bolts. Just hit it with short bursts to build it out far enough to grab with Vise grips. Faster, easier, safer.
ALUMINUM HEAD... I DRILLED MINE OUT, TO 1/4 " USED A TAPERED SQUARE EASY OUT, USING A AIR HAMMER HELPS AS WELL TO FREE IT UP BEFORE THE HEAD OF THE BOLT IS TWISTED OFF.
There is "WD40 rust release" and i would try tapping with a manual impact to get those bolts to dislodge. Hit it with WD40 and work them back and forth a bit. If you have the time give it a few days. Ford exhaust manifolds are worse than this.
I bought an 04 Silverado 5.3 for my brother-in-law six years ago put 50,000 miles on it it had 154K on it when I bought it from them and I put an average of $800 a year into the repair and maintenance of the stuffthat’s probably pretty good. I only get paid him 4500 for it. It’s got rusted bottom rails, of course like they all do in Michigan and spots of rust here and there but it’s not all rotten out like a lot of them are around here it runs like a new truck
Thanks. Most problems you detail anyone who can swing a wrench can fix at home, with that knowledge. Our 2002 Chrysler has a similar analog needle display of digital info. A bit silly to use stepper motors to show what an LED could, but buyers are slow to adapt. A few times, the speedo needle got stuck on the wrong side of the stop, so I removed the cluster and flipped it over to get the needle back, then a youtube showed how to reset the cluster by just pressing 2 buttons. Probably the same for GM's.
The vast majority of problems on any vehicle can ultimately be tracked to engineering/design flaws. Any issues will most likely be common to that make, and the first go-to is the forums for that particular vehicle. I can't stress how much time in troubleshooting, and money, has been saved as a result.
Every year I would retorque my intake manifold gasket for my 2003 Silverado 4.8L on the first cold morning, and it would clear up the misfires. I also had to replace my vent solenoid since the take wouldn’t fill. Also had to rebuild the gauge cluster. All this maintenance mentioned here is a one-and-done fix. These old trucks will run over 300,000 miles easy.
Brake lines rusting away. Water pump. Amazing how brake lines can rust away. I have old vehicles.. Brake lines are fine. I am lucky I didnt get in a bad accident. Mine blew out on the interstate in Oklahoma. Lucky for me Oklahoma has wide flat medians... When I brakes failed I coasted into the grass.
Rust takes a long time to weaken metal to the point of bursting. Meaning this wasnt some sudden onset you either knew of the issue and ignored it or were never informed of it until it was too late. Either way rust happens to all vehicles, and is another maintance item to consider. I get the sense that you believe this to be a GM only issue.
The rear manifold bolts can be repaired with an aftermarket clamp that wraps around the back of the engine. I don’t have more than that. My shop did it.
350,000 miles on my 5.3 swapped into my durango with twin 68mm turbos....Ive had more troubles with the engine while it was in the chevy truck it came in, than I have had with it in my durango!
oh man if the Wizard did one of these type videos on the CVPI Crown Vic cop cars..i could die a happy man. I cant click your videos fast enough Wizard! Thx for the expert tips.
@Todd m I would say f that for $400. Couldn't you put a toggle switch or direct wire the headlight switch to run the relay and bypass the module? I know this wouldn't be the "right way" to fix it, but if it only effects the high beams, I don't think your going to get much for the car when you sell it anyway.
I just bought a 99 Sierra with the 5.3. Has 280k on it, I was expecting to have to do a ton of maintenance. Very surprisingly the truck runs and drives fantastic. Great engines in my opinion. You will not find a ford truck with that many miles without a ton of issues on an original engine.
Nice list wizard. All common issues with the generals c and k trucks. Add a water pump, leaking coolant. False abs operation at low speeds from faulty front wheel speed sensors. Airbag light on, needs a front crash sensor. Uneven rear brake wear and backing plates rusting out. Oh and my favorite, all the brake lines rusting out at the abs unit under the truck that you mentioned in the post. Not a hater but I love seeing these trucks and SUVs in my $hop.
I have owned and own many LS motors they all have been excellent, there is really only one "internal" weak spot (after 400K miles+) that is the cam bearings, and resulting low oil pressure. However, when I pull the rods or mains apart they are still good, great motors, hooked to a 4L80E virtually bullet proof.
Replacing the oil pan pickup gasket often fixes this issue. Lifter tick in these engines is generally caused by the oil not flowing through the small passages of the pushrods.
Definitely necessary to fix. A tick equals wear. I had a 5.3 wear out three cam lobes before it even started making noise. Truck had 84K on it and just out of warranty. Inside of the engine was spotless just all worn out.
I found a loose spark plug heat shield on #1 cyl. It was banging against the exhaust manifold and making the exact same sound as a lifter. Check those, it’s free.
Often, lifter tick won’t hurt an LS. My 4.8L has had a low rpm lifter tick for 50k miles with no issues. On a dyno, it didn’t see a decrease in power either.
2007 Yukon Denali, evap canister issue too. Rear Air suspension issues, mega 175 amp fuse, checking aging grounds, mirror motor, wheel hubs, front upper and lower control arm joints, alternator and battery. Since 2007, I'd say that sums up the issues I've had. Recently I found the air suspension doesn't even through codes to the dash or generic scanners, but if that compressor doesn't turn on then something is up. Generally the compressor, leaking shocks, and a blown main comp fuse. Love the 6.2 motor though!
I just bought a 2004 Silverado with the 5.3 based on your recommendation. I'm looking forward to a long drive with it this weekend. I do have leaking valve, pan and rear main. But I'll address those after my trip. Just make sure I check the oil level often.
I bought a 2005 myself with the L59 5.3L. I ended up doing the knock sensorsX gasket seals, water pump, basic fluid changes, air bag sensor. Everyone thought that I was crazy and bought a pos and the end of the Day, It is just normal maintenance. Thea motors are extremely reliable. I only paid 4,000 for it and am ok putting 2k to do everything. This will probably get me by a 100k without anything major.
There are some freak engines out there, but most LS engines do have a lot of issues. I owned a 07 classic silverado since new and it lasted to 104000 miles where the heads cracked. Dang castech heads!
Good video, some I've already run into and others I haven't. 4WD axle actuator and encoder motor are another common problem. Same ground location. I think I'm starting to recognize the oil pickup tube o-ring sucking air problem now. Cold starts especially. 126K well maintained and driven pretty easy.
Hey Wizard, The stepper motors on the cluster are very easy to replace! only a few bucks a piece for the new stepper motor. Just need a good soldering pin and a suction gun. A lot easier and cheaper than sending the whole cluster out!
south main auto, Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics, briansmobile1, car wizard, new level auto, FordTechMakuloco. robinsonsauto and so many more are so much better than scotty shillmer
I have an 08 Yukon Denali and I get no oil pressure only when it's cold. But if I rev the engine until it warms up, it's fine. Also, the oil pressure is fine in the summer. Do you think the problem is the oil pick up tube O ring?
Jeffrey Peterson No oil pressure when cold might be worth getting fixed because if you're oil pressure is low then your engine might be getting damaged?
My work van had that same problem at about 240,000 miles and it was the oil Pick up o ring. Get it fixed before it damages a bearing in ruins the whole engine.
I have a 99 Silverado with the 5.3L. 4X4 with extended cab and long box. I really only have 3 recurring issues with it. 1. I do have the gauge issue, but it's only with the Fuel gauge. If the tank is full, it will continually read as full, but if it goes down below 3/4 tank, it may drop to E when I turn the ignition on. Usually it will slowly work it's way back up and read at the proper level after 10 or so minutes driving time, but can also drop back to E while driving. I noticed if I back up and turn the steering wheel to the left and hit the brakes, it immediately jumps back to the correct fuel level. 2. I have a coolant leak I can't find. I suspect it's in the radiator, but I never see coolant leaking out, there is no white smoke out the exhaust, and it's been quite regular in loss the whole time I've owned it. Incidentally I bought it in 2011 for $4900.00. The only complaint here is that it is the Dex Cool and it's several dollars more expensive/gal than regular etheline glycol antifreeze is. 3. I have an EGR check engine light constantly on. I replaced the EGR valve, it's right out in the open and very easy to replace, but that didn't stop the engine code. I am thinking about spraying carb cleaner into the EGR tube in case it's plugged with carbon, and see if that doesn't repair it. I'll take any suggestions on that part. I am having issues with the A/C but mine is due to the A/C pump failing. I do plan to replace it and hopefully that will correct that issue. Overall, I like the truck. The 4X4 works flawlessly and engages with a flip of the switch, though I grew up with the floor shifters for 4X4 so if I buy a new truck ever, it's going to have to be that system, not the button/knob shifter. Yes, that would mean probably getting a work truck package with a few extra options, but that's usually the cheapest way to get into a truck. I do work in an auto service shop. We don't do vehicle repairing but vehicle servicing. Oil changes, tire replacement/repairing/rotate balance and battery installs. What I've learned about vehicles is that I probably wouldn't own a vehicle, even a GM pickup, any newer than 2007. That's basically from a maintenance point of view. It's amazing how far the manufacturers have gone to make the vehicles hard to maintain yourself. For some issues, you have to go back to the dealership and have them serviced. There are even some things we can't do just because of the design, and lack of correct tools to work on them. So for that fact alone, 2007 or older for me.
Good call on that wire under the driver seat attached to the frame. I had a very similar issue in my 05 GTO, but the wire was on the backside of the alternator and for some weird reason it came out of the original connector that bolted into the alternator. All we ended up doing was just squeezing the connector right back on and putting it back in place and it never happened again. My buddy with the same year GTO had a similar issue too and he just did the same thing
I'm retired now, but I was a GM parts guy for 17 years. This list of issues is absolutely correct.
I remember the first time I opened a hood and seen a plactic intake and thought, 'there goes the days of good ol motors' whats up with building motors with plastic parts anyway, bunch of cheap basxxxx's..what everyones take on the ford 4.0 SOHC, 3 tining chains running through plastic guide and rail 'cassettes'' sad.or Dodge building the most rrestrictive air inntake that looks like a half of a beer keg. The future of cars is getting bleak.....I came up in the 60's and 70's, best era ever for cars and we had the best music too......lol
@@jamesmoore3346 Agreed on best music! Can't go with you on best cars. I love old muscle like the next guy but nowadays, cars are soooooo much more reliable and run so much better for so much longer than ever. In the old days, 100,000 miles was considered high mileage. Now? 100,000 miles is just getting broken in. (I decided to change my spark plugs at 175,000 miles because I figured "damn...they gotta be worn!" They were like new except for obvious discoloration). 300,000 miles on my 08 6.0liter. I've changed the broken exhaust manifold bolts and the shrunken oil pickup tube o-ring. Still has original water pump, alternator, fan clutch, fuel pump, front brakes, starter, muffler, exhaust manifolds, transmission, rear diff, PS pump etc. Never touched the ice cold A/C! BY FAR THE BEST VEHICLE I HAVE EVER OWNED!
@@jamesmoore3346 aluminum intakes leak air because of large pores in the aluminum, so they switch to plastic, so the mass air flow sensor can do a better job of keeping up with the amount of air that going into the engine. back in the 80's and 90's the carmakers would coat the inside of the aluminum intakes with some kind substance not sure what it was, but it sealed the intakes better from leaking vacuum.
@Jaron Flanagin Now you're just angry.
I have an 04 Tahoe 5.3 2wd. It was making a clicking (sounded like a U joint originally but got louder) from under the hood. It got louder when accelerating and would follow shifts. Playing with drive reverse neutral on up and down hill changed the sound or made it go away. If it was gone and I put it in reverse still gone, let it roll on the brake and it’d come back, drive and let it roll it’s gone again. Then a week ago driving 45 uphill something snapped. No power to the transmission and weird noises, rolled it to a stop quickly, still running but chuggin. To park and it made a slam so I turned it off. tell me how to fix it. I’m desperate. I changed the trans myself 9 months ago, and I don’t want to do any unnecessary work. But I want to save it and not do a full engine like everyone is advising. Thanks!! UPDATE: it sounds like lifter tick!! But I let it go farther than all the videos I’ve seen. What do I do!
I have a 2003 Silverado 4.3 v6 with 235,000 mile when I got it , it had 11,000 mile on it . I can testify all this repairs are spot on
The 4.3 is still based on the 350 engine, not the ls series, it still has a distributor in that year
He's a natural shop teacher type .. being efficient with the words, helps the listener understand. Great video.
This dude is great... He gets right to the point and does not say the same thing over and over... LOL... Good job !!
When we had to do knock sensors, we put a good amount of high temp rtv around the gaps of the sensors to keep any debris out of the sensor wells. It's incredible how much gunk gets caught in that area.
Your LS has an issue? No problem: *LS SWAP IT!*
I literally lol when I read this. Good job.
But then you'll have problems again...
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Lol
funny as shit
I've had my Silverado for 11 years with the original 5.3, 398,000 miles and haven't had any of these problems. It's been the best truck I've ever owned.
one of 10000.....
I bet you take really good care of your truck... You should pat yourself on the back, because a lot of people don't.
I have 365,000 on my 2000 5.3, it's only had a rear main seal replacement, rear end rebuild and front end rebuild. Everything else is stock, I still tow my 7,500 pound camping trailer and gear about 15 times a year with no problem at all.
@@samduran5180 pull at 3500 to 4k is not pulling with ease 5.3 has to 2500 to do 70 with a lawnmower
@@austinhowze6280 Of course but still a great testament to longevity.
I LS swapped my washing machine. This is a very helpful video.
But how much boost are you feeding it?
Nice bro' you should race it "
Craig Pasquinzo I ls swapped my drier. Spins it, provides the heat, and provides that ls fresh scent.
@@TheMattc999 Like race gas. ?
I bet the timer started acting up didn't it
im a personal mechanic and i cant stand most car repair channels.. you talk quiet and calm and make a point with almost every sentence.. ive had the little AC belt pop off and i had to pull my cluster and re solder the micro transistors because it kept going on and off randomly.. great video..
Hate to complain about videos because some people get good out of them. But some of the videos involve nothing more than idiocy and teach all kinds of bad stuff. Embarrassing sometimes.
Thank you for giving the average cost to repair each problem you spoke about. Most people do not give prices they just point out problems. You have gained a new subscriber!
Don't tell Hoovie but I clicked on your video before his.
Second
@@ramirodiaz4545 Third!
Me too. I lost interest in Hoovie’s channel.
I didn't even skip the adds. You're a true wizard.
@68Camaro RS/SS fixed 😙
This is why I prefer GM trucks. There's no shortage of issues, but everything is pretty minor and cheap to fix, and a lot are repairs I can do myself.
Amen!!
Daniel Fricke 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I think older ones. Not sure about new ones. Seems those have gremlins. Me and my parents have high mileage trucks. Burn oil. But never let us down. My dad already hit 500k last month.
Common issue number 11. Engine is consuming oil, and burning it out the exhaust. Fix: Replace the drivers side valve cover with the updated valve cover from GM. There is a problem with the baffling. It allows oil to be sucked up into the intake via the pcv port. This happens in these engine with 100,000+ miles on it.
Twisted , had to do that on mine. But just cleaned mine as there was not a updated one 8 years ago.
is that issue on the 07+ engine or on the older 2002--06 engines as well?
@@lexbrusb.1821 I’ve reap a couple forums where most stated in was in the 07+ because the PCV is integrated into the valve cover if I’m not mistaken. My 02 suburban has the Pcv separate from the valve cover
@@lexbrusb.1821 YEP its on the 05 because i replaced my valve cover and it works perfect!
Just bought a very nice '01 one owner Suburban with 297,000 miles. It had an oil change done 500 miles before I bought. I've owned excellent 6 days and noticed 2 quarts low on oil. No cold start or any drivability issues. I'll change the valve cover and see.
Great video. I just bought one of my old work trucks from our company. 04 2500 hd w 6.0.The motor has 240k but runs good. Truck is straight and drives well. Interior shot but brand new now with a bunch of sweat equity and new seat cushions and covers. Dash was in pieces which was fun to find a replacement for but i did. It'll be my get, out of dodge and hit the woods truck for the rest of my life.
Nice video! I have a 2002 Avalanche that had 16.000 miles when I bought her. She now has 250.000 miles and still runs like a Swiss clock! Thank God I’ve never experienced any of the issues that were brought up in the video. Around 5 years ago I replaced the original alternator, and I still have the original starter that most people I tell don’t believe. I was very blessed to have this truck. Nothing major just wear and tear items! Thanks for sharing 😎👍
these are high mile issues my 4.8 vortec has 400 000k I had a waterpump leak and 3 manifold bolts broke I say very reliable engines and it still runs like new..
That's gm for ya.. Older than dirt, ran to hell and still gets you home.
I'm at 396k and still runs like a sewing machine
I've got a 1/2T 2wd 4.8 and I'm surprised at the power, and mpg ain't bad either.
Have 360k on my 4.8 tahoe 280k on my 5.3 burb. Both run like champs
Yup, 325k on my 02 Silverado 5.3ltr. Starts every time I turn the key. A few of the problems he's mentioned, but minor inexpensive stuff. Great motors.
you should make more videos like this, good knowledge for that engine.
Michael Schneider I agree,& I have a the 1st year they offered the LS 5.3L in my ole 1999model Chevy LT Z71 OFF ROAD 4x4.
@@kevinroark4346 any problems?
Michael Schneider I’ve had some of these problems on my 4.2 LS
I’m on my second LS truck, first one was a 2000 4.8 Sierra, my current ones a 99 Silverado 2500 6.0. I love them
Let me tell you common issues with LS engines..
The gauge clusters go bad
3 of them truck had 320000 on it now 195,000 cluster fucked again
Lol!
And fuel pumps.
The gauge cluster is not part of the engine. 🤦🏻♂️
Hub and bearing
Thanks a bunch! I've had most of these as I own or have owned 4 of these high mileage trucks. A few more for this list-- the rear exhaust manifold bolts break off. Remove rest of bolts and either remove manifold or pull it back. Weld a nut on the broken threads in the head, wait a minute, then twist out and replace with new bolts and gaskets. Also, the T fittings on the heater core leak. Replace with the Delco ones; the Dorman ones are absolute crap. Finally, replace the brake lines with the stainless kit. Don't wait until you're in a cornfield or under a semi.
I have owned over 100 vehicles in My life and now have a 2001 tahoe that I've owned for 5 years and it is the best vehicle I have ever owned. 5.3 with 235,000 miles and runs like a new car !!! Change oil every 3,000 miles and drive it like I stoke it.
Here's another VERY common issue you can add to your list:
Oil pressure gauge indicates 80psi, engine on or off. Often times the sensor is also leaking.
The false reading is due to a faulty oil pressure sending unit, which sits on the top of the eng. block, driver's side, behind the intake manif., right next to the firewall. A real pain in the ass to get to, but can be reached by disconnecting the fuel line quick disconnect. Repair shops might tell you the intake manif. has to come off, but it doesn't. Reaching the sensor requires a 3/8ths or 1/2-inch drive extension with a 1&1/16th" deep socket to fit over the sensor. Oh, and a flashlight and mirror would also help to see what you're doing. Be prepared to lay on top of the engine (after having removed the eng. cover) and muster up all the patience you have. You'll need it!
I just had to replace my difficult oil pressure sensor on my 6 L vortec on my 2005 Hummer H2. Had to do the same thing except taking off the fuel rail but I had to unbolt the latch mechanism for the hood and put it out of the way because the hoods on Hummer H2S open forward like old Corvettes.
Been there on that one !!!
Just replaced mine. My oil guage went from 80psi down to almost 0psi. Did some research on youtube and found out I need an O ring tube. Once I install the o ring my oil pressure was normal
Have that problem. Dread having to sweat, struggle, and cuss getting to it.
I read it was a pain in the ass and remove this remove that. I removed nothing but the sensor. Took me 20 minutes. Easy job. 06 L59. 🤷♂️
As the original owner of a 2003 Suburban with 84, 000 miles, your video helped me understand the non-fill issue with the gas tank. Thanks and keep up the great information.
Another annoying issue, is the power steering hoses. I've replaced about 4 in 5 years, Great video though! I still love my truck!
#11. Oil pressure sending unit screen. Back of the engine, pull the sender out, clean the screen, re-install. If you're OP suddenly dumps low or zero...with no noise or other sign(as in there's oil) then it's almost ALWAYS the sender. You do need a special socket to remove but they're cheap and the job takes about 15 min once you get the socket/elbows figured out for your particular model!
Thanks DeadAim!
He mentioned this in the video
I have a 2005 Tahoe with the 5.3 ( LM7) engine. My oil pressure stays normal until I step on the gas. The oil pressure drops to zero and stays at zero. Check Engine Light does not come on and " Low Oil Pressure" does not illuminate on the dash. I have no idea what could be wrong. Engine doesn't seem to make noise either when this happens. Maybe a little tick but I have to really listen and pay attention. Any ideas? This generation of engine doesn't have the screen around the oil pressure sensor
Yep!!! that should be in the top of the list.
@@jaredchampagne2752 He mentioned the Oring in the oil pan. The sending unit sits drivers side at the very back of the engine. Pain to get to.
I'm building a 6.0 right now. The rear knock sensor was toast, sitting in 2" of water. Both rear manifold bolts were broken off. This is a good top 10 list. These motors are so easy to work on and parts are relatively cheap. Oh yeah, hello from KC!
We've had 4 of the issues listed but they were all minor repairs and pretty cheap. Overall a great engine. As always, great advice Car Wizard.
Got one of these 3 weeks ago and have fixed 5 of these problems. And had the transmission rebuilt. Nailed it dude
When you find a good mechanic, sometimes you gotta keep your trap shut, but if needed I will testify that man clearly jumped in back of your truck. Great video as always, thank you.
As I was watching the video I was thinking these are all minor problems compared to the Ford 5.4 ltr. I have an 02 Silverado with the 5.3 and it's been great. Currently 320k on the original motor, trans and rear end. Pretty much the entire truck is original. I've replaced the entire braking system except the lines, but other than that, almost nothing. Inner tie rods and the Pitman arm were replaced at 240k. All of the rest of the steering & suspension components are still original including the ball joints. The a/c compressor went out at 290k. Best vehicle I've ever owned, bar none.
Get ready for that trans to go at any time. lol. Luckily, they are pretty cheap to have rebuilt.
Jim M I like how everyone compares this to fords worst engine lmfao
Haha, I’m having to replace my front end stuff too on my 01 Silverado. Only lines at 300k!
@@trizkial7592 well yeah, they came out around the same time and were used for the same purposes, I wouldn't call it a wild comparison. Any older ford v8s are absolute dinosaurs
Common misconception that the 5.4 is bad in all forms. 2 and 4 valve versions are great. Super reliable engines.
Good video. A couple things I would add though.
1. The abs, e brake lights are also often caused by wheel hubs going bad.
2. If you live anywhere where they salt roads CHECK YOUR BRAKE LINES! These trucks are notorious for the brake lines rotting out.
Other than whats mentioned in the video and these two things they are good trucks!
These common issues are accurate. My 2007 Chevy Tahoe has at least 8 out of the 10 issues. This video is very helpful. Thanks!
Yep. We own lots of the 99-03 Silverados and we have had the oil pickup tube o-ring, exhaust manifold bolts, knock sensors, abs control module, a/c belt tensioner, gauge cluster and ground wire. This guy knows his stuff!
Excellent video. I'm a chevy truck fan and owner. I've had 7 trucks with LS and I've had all of the problems mentioned. Not all the problems in all the trucks, some problems in some trucks, and some in others. Usually not so difficult to solve and not expensive. But sometimes it was difficult to diagnose, wished I've seen this video some years ago, jajaja.
Great video for people who drive these vehicles/5.3 by GM. These are very common issues that are fairly easy/cheap to repair, but some people will sell a vehicle cheaper just from these issues being misdiagnosed.
On the evap issue it could also be that the previous owner replaced the fuel pump but when he reinstalled the gas tank back up he missed the two vent hoses which get trapped in between the gas tank and gas tank strap. Always keep an eye on the vent hoses when reinstalling a gas tank back on if not you’ll get a check engine code that calls for an evap issue!.
I know the topic was 10 things about the motor one thing I'd like to add very common and those model years 99 through 2006 even early 2007 the transfer case inside there is a bushing that rubs a hole through the case and you lose fluid. There is an aftermarket fix for this it is a much beef ear spacer that is used in does not have sharp corners it has rounded corners so it does not wear the hole through the case. Had to replace my transfer case at a 150000 miles due to previous owner liked using the auto 4 wheel drive which destroys these cases. If you own a 4 wheel drive do not use the auto 4 wheel drive either select for high or for low if needed do not use the auto 4 wheel drive. Thank you wizard love the channel really enjoy the dry humor.
I just replaced my transfer case with one from the junkyard for $400. I rebuilt the old one for $500 in parts, so I will have a spare one in the shed. It was actually really easy to rebuild myself!
I kept coming back to this video since I own one of these so that I can tackle some of the issues. Maybe it helps you guys too.
#1. Intake gasket.
# 2. Knock sensor
# 3. Oil cooler line block 2mm bolts/gasket
# 4. O-ring by
# 5. Hot AC. Tiny tensioner by cerpentine belt
# 6. Evap vent dirty.
# 7. Gage cluster out of whack. Bad cluster.
# 8. Abs and brake light. Bad abs control module.
# 9 & 10. Ground wire under driver seat goes bad. Bolt by manifold.
Although the A1 vid says brushclean carefully and repaint on the axle where the wheel sensor pickup is. Then it might not be the control module.
I have a 2005 Silverado and you just solved 4 of the problems that I am having or have had.
Add HVAC blend door actuators. Intermediate steering shaft.
Those aren't engine related problems? Also add flakey TPS.
David Regan half of what the wizard mentioned wasn't engine related... I mean come on, the clusters? Really?
Ryan Adam so coolant temp, oil press, tachometer are not engine related? Lol
Brian Hardwick no, not when its the gauge its self thats wonky.
Ryan Adam okay true but even it’s the gauges wonky out, still need to monitor your engines vitals right?
The premature fuel pump problem on these trucks is due to people driving with tank too empty. The fuel pump needs fuel in order to cool itself. Many people ride the “e” with the gas gauge. Not good on any car
If I'm not mistaken, the fuel issue he's referring to is an issue I've had on my GM vehicles where it is very difficult to pump fuel due to poor venting of the gas tank. The fuel pump pushes fuel out of the tank into the rails/injectors. A bad fuel pump would not dictate an inability to load fuel into the tank. Rather the opposite. When you overfill your gas tank as some people call "topping off", you have spillage into your charcoal canister (also known as the evap canister) usually mounted above the rear differential. It is an activated charcoal canister with a fuel line running in, one running out, and an electronic sensor to detect small/large evap leaks. The activated charcoal comes in contact with gasoline, shrinks, and then gets caught in the lines running to the gas tank, thereby clogging the inlet and making it very difficult to pump fuel.
Edit: This can be solved by dropping the gas tank via the two straps, removing the lines, and blowing them out with compressed air to remove the charcoal bits. A bad charcoal canister can be diagnosed by taking it off of the bracket and turning it upside down. If charcoal spills out, it is bad. It comes from GM and aftermarket manufacturers (I've had both) with a fiberglass layer inside of the canister to prevent the beads from running through the lines.
I only figured this out after replacing the canister, vent valve, vent valve solenoid, and the purge valve. Another dummy test would be a faulty o-ring in the gas cap... always buy OEM for safety systems.
I've had about 8 of these problems on my Chevy Suburbans. I own two. They have been cheap reliable vehicles that I am able to work on to get us down the road.
My suburban leaks a little oil, guess I'm gonna have to check the oil pickup gasket next to the filter. May even be something I can do myself!
Great video. Not major issues but what he said is right on point. With my 2001 Silverado 5.3L, I had the intake manifold gasket cause my RPMs to high at the red light to the point I had to keep my foot on the brake harder than usual. I installed the higher quality gasket and it has driven smooth for thousands of mile now. Knock sensors are still fine at 227K miles. Exhaust bolts broken on both sides in the back. ABS module on occasion shows up on dash. A/C stopped in summer after 20 years in service. Just the service ports were leaking, replaced and serviced. Fuel dash indicator jumps up and down, from factory, until I changed the fuel pump/ sending unit. Everything else is just normal wear and maintenance. Easy to work on and just simple fixes. Still get 18MPGs. Great truck. I love it and wish they could make these new with jjst a few upgrades and fixes.
Hi Mr Car wizard you forgot to include the front wheel hub bearings and brake calipers, slides ,. Unless you grease them when you do a, brake job your in for an experience. If you dont invest in quality hub bearings for replacement for example Timken or Moog your in for a replacement again within 60 O00 miles.. Currently I have over 375 000 miles on the engine original waterpump and clutch fan. The starter just stopped, working yesterday. I haven't been in the engine but.it runs great. I have rebuilt a 4.8 waiting when the engines decides to give up. I agree they are good engines change the oil and routine maintaince and the stay strong . I kept seeing a drip from around the the, oil filter. The gasket on the knock off plate is next to be fixed. Excellent video keep up the great work.
These things are pretty damn good rigs in general.
One little tip with the manifold bolts the ones that are broken you can typically weld a nut onto the broken stud even if they are flush with the head and take the broken bolts right out. The heads pop because of the manifold warping. Doing this saves a lot of time!
Now I have it: He's the Bob Ross of car repairs!
Congrats but that was already said in a previous video...
He is!
Happy little tree fresheners
Guessing Ford 3 valve 5.4's are the happy little accidents? Haha
He's not all that happy when describing them, lol. We'll just call them accidents.
i just did my instrument cluster.the stepper guages along with new led lights(30--10 white,10 red,10 blue) come in a kit from Amazon.stepper guages get desoldered (do NOT over heat the pads--quick heat with a solder sucker--comes in the kit with solder iron and solder)the transmission shift light goes out--resolder the 2 banks of resistors--under a magnifying glass you will see cracks in the solder.the led lights are POLARITY SENSITIVE.i can give you the layout if you'd like.
2006 GMC Sierra here thanks for the video, I have owned this truck 13 years and have done most of these
I still love the 5.7 iron horse gm motor
#11: Heater core inlet quick disconnect fitting on the firewall connection.
OTC makes a tool to disconnect it, and I'm not talking about the ones with the Jesus clips (like the transmission cooling line connector) I ran into this problem last week on a 2015 Silverado with a V6, 4.3 (looks like a mini LS1 I might add, all aluminum) they are 3/4 inch and are a quick connect, it takes an extra deep & thin release tool to get these off
6046 OTC
Yep!
Mine just blew on a bridge...cheap shit...n took out my newly repaired oil sender, so op gauge is all wiggy again...yep a real double whammy....$
I had these cheap plastic elbows disintergate on my 04 GTP when i got on it....sad shit
@@joemonbluesandbbq1438 the aftermarket makes metal elbows to replace those for 10 bux. Overall that engine is pretty great. Agreed that they should have been better from the factory.
These LS engines remind me of the earlier 283 and 350 small blocks. Pure quality machining from GM. My 05 Tahoe will still kiss redline at command with the whirl of a sewing machine. Almost 250k on her.
oldrider steve I literally just sold a 97 formula with 350,000+ on its lt1 and itd scream like the devil was after it. Itd boil the tires off for 2 blocks fishtailing
@@getchasome6230 i have a 96 LT1 Z28 that still has plenty of balls. she will still shread tires. i had the trans rebuilt and upgraded last year, had the better stuff put into it including 2,200 stall converter, shift kit, better bands, spregs, ect ect.
the car has 246K on it. runs strong. no im not selling it LOL
@Rick Simpson Gm came out with a new 6.6 gasser as well
@Rick Simpson Yeah here you go ruclips.net/video/IEBiVx8RW1o/видео.html That ford 7.3 looks promising I will say. Chevy is going direct injection while the ford is going back to old school port injection. Apparently the ford 7.3 is a big block even though Ford has not made the big block for years. Gm made the 8.1 liter till 2006 which was a big block but this new 6.6 chevy is based on the small block. Ford may have it beat but both should be good work horses
Small block chevies were junk, from a reliabilty standpoint, until major changes were made to them in the mid 80's.
Exhaust manifold studs break too. My ABS light was on, but was due to brake fluid leaking out of the ABS valve block into the ABS motor. Replaced the block and motor, transferred my module over.
Good list. Thanks. I have been working on a 2000 gm sierra. So far, have had to deal with 4 of the 10. Plus I will add to your list - split rubber elbow boots on the fuel pressure regulator vacuum tube.
Great video, I own one of those Vortec (LS type) engines in my Tahoe. Actually, this is my second Tahoe with the 5.3L and I guess I've lead a charmed life since I have not had any of those issues on my trucks. I wish repair costs here were what you quote on your video! Labor prices here are through the roof! Everyone here in California wants to be a millionaire! lol
Yep, when the cost of a simple 1500 sq foot single family home is approaching $400-500k, everyone about needs to be a millionaire to afford to live here any more. Wait until the drought and water overusage fees this year in 2020.
@@eastmanresearch3143 Try Vancouver BC. One to two thousand dollars per square foot
Love the humor Wizard. Great content. 12 years owning a 2003 GMC truck, now over 300k, this list is spot on accurate.
Thanks David. The production values of your videos are improving all the time. You have a great manner and your information is excellent. Thank you for sharing.
The EVAP vent solenoid, gauge cluster, and EBCM aren't LS-exclusive problems, but common among many GM vehicles. Rest of the video is pretty spot on though.
No mention of the 07-14 AFM/DOD engines. A lot of the same issues plus lifters going bad (mine had a lifter tray cracked and the lifter spun sideways ruining my camshaft, so I deleted my AFM), clogged oil pressure sensor screens, bad oil pressure sensors (I’m on my 3rd one), roller rocker bearings falling apart, etc. Great video wizard. The newer trucks have a much more expensive evap solenoid but with a little modification the older style evap solenoid you showed will plug right in and work as well for $100 less.
I can personally relate to the knock sensor one, the ABS one, and definitely, most certainly, the exhaust bolt one.
You should make this a series ,
*Awesome and reliable engines with top 10 common issues*
Can you do one of these for the 4.3L? I had a 2003 Chevy Astro that was great, I had 394,000 miles on it when I sold it! And it was running fine. I then "upgraded" to a 2014 Chevy Express 1500, thinking since it was the same motor, i'm good for another 300,000+ miles... Well I can tell you that is not going to happen. I've had more problems in the 1st 100,000 miles on the 2014 than I had throughout the entire 400,000 mile lifespan of the 2003... Exhaust leaks, ABS speed sensors, high oil consumption, motor mount issues... I'm sure there's a laundry list of things I'm not remembering.
I assumed Chevy had 10 years in between those models to refine and polish their design, that my new model would be like riding on a "bulletproof cloud", but all they done is figure out how to use more plastic and cheaper sheet metal that rusts away if it gets too close to a wet fart! It's ridiculous. The underside of the 2014 looks like it's been rotting in a field for 40 years...
Translation: When your truck gets a couple hundred thousand miles on it you have to fix some rinky-dink crap.
Yep. 265K on my 6.0. Has piston slap when cold. Still pulls hard AF.
Really and nothing has to do with the long block. Its not like they spit spark plugs (Ford) or lifters that eat cams (Dodge).
@@Tsalinger my 2000 z71 has 300k and still pulls hard
T salinger1026 actually... unfortunately due to displacement on demand(cylinder deactivation) in the 5.3L eco tec v8. The lifters will chip cams. If it wasn’t for that, they would be bullet proof
My ford 4.6 4v still pulls at 158k
And if your in rust areas, your looking at fuel and brake lines, the older steel power steering cooler on the radiator, the front wheel bearings going bad/ wheel speed sensors lifting from rust under the shim and engaging the abs at low speeds. Lots of fuel sending units and oil pressure sensors too
I've owned a 2001 Silverado, since 2001.. Car Wizard is tellin' it like it is.
2005 Silverado owner here. I have had my cluster rebuilt. There is a guy who does it for $150 in my area. Also when my A/C stopped blowing cold air it was a fuse relay.
Hit the ground running on eBay I had one fixed for $67 plus shipping. Works perfect now 2003 Yukon denali
Hey Wizard, you’re getting way better at presenting, great job!
I love how it went from engine issues to common issues
hi,
The AC going warm on yah it might be also just the Blend Door Actuator that needs to be replaced or even fixed.
The ABS light it also might be just the ground wires that needs to be cleaned or the ABS magnetic sensors which are located on each of the wheels that needs to be cleaned or replaced.
These are common and easy fixes for problems you mentioned.
thank you Wizard for your videos. keep it coming!
This guy’s list of known issues are spot on!
You should use a mig welder instead of drilling the broken exhaust bolts. Just hit it with short bursts to build it out far enough to grab with Vise grips. Faster, easier, safer.
ALUMINUM HEAD... I DRILLED MINE OUT, TO 1/4 " USED A TAPERED SQUARE EASY OUT, USING A AIR HAMMER HELPS AS WELL TO FREE IT UP BEFORE THE HEAD OF THE BOLT IS TWISTED OFF.
There is "WD40 rust release" and i would try tapping with a manual impact to get those bolts to dislodge. Hit it with WD40 and work them back and forth a bit. If you have the time give it a few days.
Ford exhaust manifolds are worse than this.
I bought an 04 Silverado 5.3 for my brother-in-law six years ago put 50,000 miles on it it had 154K on it when I bought it from them and I put an average of $800 a year into the repair and maintenance of the stuffthat’s probably pretty good. I only get paid him 4500 for it. It’s got rusted bottom rails, of course like they all do in Michigan and spots of rust here and there but it’s not all rotten out like a lot of them are around here it runs like a new truck
Yep. Way cheaper than $700/month new truck payments.
I own a 06 yukon 5.3 this video is very accurate on issues.
I have a 04 yukon with the 5.3 . You just helped me so much. I really appreciate it brother. You've got some great videos.
Thanks. Most problems you detail anyone who can swing a wrench can fix at home, with that knowledge. Our 2002 Chrysler has a similar analog needle display of digital info. A bit silly to use stepper motors to show what an LED could, but buyers are slow to adapt. A few times, the speedo needle got stuck on the wrong side of the stop, so I removed the cluster and flipped it over to get the needle back, then a youtube showed how to reset the cluster by just pressing 2 buttons. Probably the same for GM's.
The vast majority of problems on any vehicle can ultimately be tracked to engineering/design flaws. Any issues will most likely be common to that make, and the first go-to is the forums for that particular vehicle. I can't stress how much time in troubleshooting, and money, has been saved as a result.
Every year I would retorque my intake manifold gasket for my 2003 Silverado 4.8L on the first cold morning, and it would clear up the misfires. I also had to replace my vent solenoid since the take wouldn’t fill. Also had to rebuild the gauge cluster.
All this maintenance mentioned here is a one-and-done fix. These old trucks will run over 300,000 miles easy.
Brake lines rusting away. Water pump.
Amazing how brake lines can rust away.
I have old vehicles..
Brake lines are fine.
I am lucky I didnt get in a bad accident.
Mine blew out on the interstate in Oklahoma.
Lucky for me Oklahoma has wide flat medians...
When I brakes failed I coasted into the grass.
Rust takes a long time to weaken metal to the point of bursting. Meaning this wasnt some sudden onset you either knew of the issue and ignored it or were never informed of it until it was too late. Either way rust happens to all vehicles, and is another maintance item to consider. I get the sense that you believe this to be a GM only issue.
The rear manifold bolts can be repaired with an aftermarket clamp that wraps around the back of the engine. I don’t have more than that. My shop did it.
350,000 miles on my 5.3 swapped into my durango with twin 68mm turbos....Ive had more troubles with the engine while it was in the chevy truck it came in, than I have had with it in my durango!
320k miles on my 04 silverado only had to replace the bearings in the rear-end.
oh man if the Wizard did one of these type videos on the CVPI Crown Vic cop cars..i could die a happy man. I cant click your videos fast enough Wizard! Thx for the expert tips.
I love my cvpi
@Todd m I would say f that for $400. Couldn't you put a toggle switch or direct wire the headlight switch to run the relay and bypass the module? I know this wouldn't be the "right way" to fix it, but if it only effects the high beams, I don't think your going to get much for the car when you sell it anyway.
I just bought a 99 Sierra with the 5.3. Has 280k on it, I was expecting to have to do a ton of maintenance. Very surprisingly the truck runs and drives fantastic. Great engines in my opinion. You will not find a ford truck with that many miles without a ton of issues on an original engine.
Nice list wizard. All common issues with the generals c and k trucks. Add a water pump, leaking coolant. False abs operation at low speeds from faulty front wheel speed sensors. Airbag light on, needs a front crash sensor. Uneven rear brake wear and backing plates rusting out. Oh and my favorite, all the brake lines rusting out at the abs unit under the truck that you mentioned in the post. Not a hater but I love seeing these trucks and SUVs in my $hop.
I have owned and own many LS motors they all have been excellent, there is really only one "internal" weak spot (after 400K miles+) that is the cam bearings, and resulting low oil pressure. However, when I pull the rods or mains apart they are still good, great motors, hooked to a 4L80E virtually bullet proof.
still got the factory intake gaskets in my 2003 yukon....... no issues upon cold or hot starts lol 200k miles
H
General Motors baby yeah!!!!🙋
Could you please please please please address the common lifter tap in these and if it's a necessary fix or not PLEASE!
Replacing the oil pan pickup gasket often fixes this issue. Lifter tick in these engines is generally caused by the oil not flowing through the small passages of the pushrods.
Definitely necessary to fix. A tick equals wear. I had a 5.3 wear out three cam lobes before it even started making noise. Truck had 84K on it and just out of warranty. Inside of the engine was spotless just all worn out.
I found a loose spark plug heat shield on #1 cyl. It was banging against the exhaust manifold and making the exact same sound as a lifter. Check those, it’s free.
Take a bottle of the GM rear diff addative and put in the oil.
Often, lifter tick won’t hurt an LS. My 4.8L has had a low rpm lifter tick for 50k miles with no issues. On a dyno, it didn’t see a decrease in power either.
Hey I like the new intro song a lot better than the other one.
2007 Yukon Denali, evap canister issue too. Rear Air suspension issues, mega 175 amp fuse, checking aging grounds, mirror motor, wheel hubs, front upper and lower control arm joints, alternator and battery. Since 2007, I'd say that sums up the issues I've had.
Recently I found the air suspension doesn't even through codes to the dash or generic scanners, but if that compressor doesn't turn on then something is up. Generally the compressor, leaking shocks, and a blown main comp fuse.
Love the 6.2 motor though!
I just bought a 2004 Silverado with the 5.3 based on your recommendation. I'm looking forward to a long drive with it this weekend. I do have leaking valve, pan and rear main. But I'll address those after my trip. Just make sure I check the oil level often.
I bought a 2005 myself with the L59 5.3L. I ended up doing the knock sensorsX gasket seals, water pump, basic fluid changes, air bag sensor. Everyone thought that I was crazy and bought a pos and the end of the Day, It is just normal maintenance. Thea motors are extremely reliable. I only paid 4,000 for it and am ok putting 2k to do everything. This will probably get me by a 100k without anything major.
There are some freak engines out there, but most LS engines do have a lot of issues. I owned a 07 classic silverado since new and it lasted to 104000 miles where the heads cracked. Dang castech heads!
cew142 The majority of the community agrees that the 5.3 and the 6.0 are some of the most reliable engines ever put into a pickup truck.
sold a lot of them because of that. all the cores came back with cracked heads.
cew142 interesting I’ve never seen a LS with cracked heads unless majorly modified.
The 2v ford motors will way out last the ls but the owners kill them by fucking up a spark plug change
The company I work for owns a fleet of Chevy trucks. And quite a few of them have spun the cam bearings resulting in a loss of oil pressure.
Oil pressure sensor are always going out I don't know how many of them I did on LS engine
Do you have a mark on your chest from changing them I have done 1 for a guy and good God it was such a bitch to get to
@@nou8257 Not that difficult on the trucks, on the F-Bodies they are something else though.
@@KoaGuy I did a 05 gmc yukon it wasn't Altima crank sensor stupid hard but most of me was laying on the intake
Good video, some I've already run into and others I haven't. 4WD axle actuator and encoder motor are another common problem. Same ground location. I think I'm starting to recognize the oil pickup tube o-ring sucking air problem now. Cold starts especially. 126K well maintained and driven pretty easy.
Yup. My lights go dim and bright on their own free will sometimes. Gunna check out that ground wire tomorrow!
Hey Wizard, The stepper motors on the cluster are very easy to replace! only a few bucks a piece for the new stepper motor. Just need a good soldering pin and a suction gun. A lot easier and cheaper than sending the whole cluster out!
You can find places to do all stepper motors and lights in the cluster for under $100.00 shipped.
Car Wizard>Scotty Kilmer
Jason Donohue Absolutely. And he’s not bias like Scotty!
Wizard is a real mechanic, not a shill for snake oil
south main auto,
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics,
briansmobile1, car wizard, new level auto,
FordTechMakuloco. robinsonsauto and so many more are so much better than scotty shillmer
Scottys voice is like nails on a chalkboard.
I feel like Eric the car guy would be a better comparison.
I have an 08 Yukon Denali and I get no oil pressure only when it's cold. But if I rev the engine until it warms up, it's fine. Also, the oil pressure is fine in the summer. Do you think the problem is the oil pick up tube O ring?
Not the wizard but yes. Sounds to me like the pickup o ring
@@Danbuilt426 thanks chief, I'll get it replaced
Jeffrey Peterson No oil pressure when cold might be worth getting fixed because if you're oil pressure is low then your engine might be getting damaged?
My work van had that same problem at about 240,000 miles and it was the oil Pick up o ring. Get it fixed before it damages a bearing in ruins the whole engine.
I have a 99 Silverado with the 5.3L. 4X4 with extended cab and long box. I really only have 3 recurring issues with it.
1. I do have the gauge issue, but it's only with the Fuel gauge. If the tank is full, it will continually read as full, but if it goes down below 3/4 tank, it may drop to E when I turn the ignition on. Usually it will slowly work it's way back up and read at the proper level after 10 or so minutes driving time, but can also drop back to E while driving. I noticed if I back up and turn the steering wheel to the left and hit the brakes, it immediately jumps back to the correct fuel level.
2. I have a coolant leak I can't find. I suspect it's in the radiator, but I never see coolant leaking out, there is no white smoke out the exhaust, and it's been quite regular in loss the whole time I've owned it. Incidentally I bought it in 2011 for $4900.00. The only complaint here is that it is the Dex Cool and it's several dollars more expensive/gal than regular etheline glycol antifreeze is.
3. I have an EGR check engine light constantly on. I replaced the EGR valve, it's right out in the open and very easy to replace, but that didn't stop the engine code. I am thinking about spraying carb cleaner into the EGR tube in case it's plugged with carbon, and see if that doesn't repair it. I'll take any suggestions on that part.
I am having issues with the A/C but mine is due to the A/C pump failing. I do plan to replace it and hopefully that will correct that issue.
Overall, I like the truck. The 4X4 works flawlessly and engages with a flip of the switch, though I grew up with the floor shifters for 4X4 so if I buy a new truck ever, it's going to have to be that system, not the button/knob shifter. Yes, that would mean probably getting a work truck package with a few extra options, but that's usually the cheapest way to get into a truck.
I do work in an auto service shop. We don't do vehicle repairing but vehicle servicing. Oil changes, tire replacement/repairing/rotate balance and battery installs. What I've learned about vehicles is that I probably wouldn't own a vehicle, even a GM pickup, any newer than 2007. That's basically from a maintenance point of view. It's amazing how far the manufacturers have gone to make the vehicles hard to maintain yourself. For some issues, you have to go back to the dealership and have them serviced. There are even some things we can't do just because of the design, and lack of correct tools to work on them. So for that fact alone, 2007 or older for me.
Good call on that wire under the driver seat attached to the frame. I had a very similar issue in my 05 GTO, but the wire was on the backside of the alternator and for some weird reason it came out of the original connector that bolted into the alternator. All we ended up doing was just squeezing the connector right back on and putting it back in place and it never happened again. My buddy with the same year GTO had a similar issue too and he just did the same thing