Hey Alvin, thanks for the plug. The checks in the mail. You are so lucky that motor had NO rust, unbelievable! I was sure that when you pulled all that stuff out it would look like the rest of the car. You really dodged a bullet there. Nice job fixing the motor. I like the rim seal, think Ill pick up a can of that, great tip, thanks. I also like the name "torque plug," because that's exactly what they are. They help absorb the torque placed on the gear when the window hits its stop when it is all the way up or down so the motor doesn't lock up. This is why the spring gear doesn't work, they are not forgiving. 1 down and 3 more to go. Hopefully the other 3 are in just as rust free so you can rebuild those. Thanks.
That was awesome! Great way to restore a big mess. You completely redid the whole mess and turned it into a brand new unit! Amazing job! Thanks so much for sharing this 👍😃 ARCO
Well done as usual !!! Very information about how the engineers designed this to protect the motor in the event of failure... back before the THROW AWAY DAYS we live in now. :)
Thanks for the videos Alvin. I bought the plastic inserts from birds nest and they were too big. The metal gear in the middle wouldn't go back in. So I made some out of a rod of delron.
Hey Kevin, the "torque plugs" (plastic inserts) from Birds Nest do fit but they are hard to put in, and the two gears should be pressed together. Maybe Ill do a video of how I got them in since its hard to explain here. In Alvins video, when he put his gear together he could move the steel part of the gear independently of the plastic part because the torque plugs he made were just slightly too small so there was some play between the two gears. This is incorrect, incorrect meaning not how the gear was designed originally, even though it may still work. I can't say it wont work because I've never tried using smaller plugs so one would only know once the motor, regulator and window are reinstalled into the car and see if the motor locks up. In the original setup from Ford, the metal part of the gear is very tight inside the plastic part of the gear with no play what so ever because the torque plugs are large enough to require the metal gear to be pressed into position into the plastic part. There should be no movement or play of any kind once they are pressed together. This is why they seem too big because the assembly needs to be pressed together. I don't mean with a big metal press, I mean by placing everything together and then pressing the metal gear down with a hammer or the palm or your hand or something like that. It is possible. Good luck.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 Thanks Nick!! You saved me again. I haven't put the motor/regulator back in the car yet. I'll pop it apart again and try the bird nest parts again. Thanks again for the antenna parts!
Thank you...I am going to do a video on installing the correct torque plugs if I ever get them, I ordered enough for all the windows from Bird Nest, but they are stuck in LA...maybe soon!
Hey Alvin, maybe since you bought the torque plugs from Birds Nest, show everyone how you install them into the gear since your already there. Kevin made a good point here in the comments. Thanks.
I will make a short video installing the torque plug once I get them, now that I know they are suppose to be a snug fit...I won't be alarmed, and think I got the wrong ones. 🙂
Hello Alvin. Real nice job on that window regulator. Those "pucks" seem to deteriorate over age, also. I had to replace all four motor pucks in my 1991 Grand Marquis. It is a low mileage vehicle (less than 40K on the clock) when they failed. It surprised me as the older couple (previous owners) probably did not use the rear windows much. It uses the same motor setup as our T-birds. It's probably a good idea to repair all of the window motor gear boxes like you are doing. I have seen other guys use hex nuts in place of those pucks on other RUclips videos. Not a good idea. Thanks for showing this. George B. in Michigan
Hi George, when I started looking up replacement pucks, I soon realized that Ford used the same ones in almost everything! I saw a guy using hex nuts for a fix, likely something else will break because the weak link has now moved. I needed the drain plugs for the rockers, quarters, and wheelhouse extensions, so I just ordered them and the pucks...I should be good for a while now. Thank you and stay safe! Alvin
Alvin, Good going, my friend, money well saved. Poor ole Pearline doesn't have anything power, except me...not sure if that's good or bad. I look so forward to seeing that convertible take it's first post restoration drive. Regards, John
Thank you John, it was nice to be able to get the window motor up and running again without too much trouble...those suckers are pricey! I'm sure that between the convertible and the hardtop parts car, I would have been safe, and not have to buy any new motors. Yes...the day this old girl rolls out onto the street again will be a good day! Take care John! Alvin
Wax and grease remover..How do you make your style?..Wow!! You have more courage then me..Everytime I take any type of electric motor apart. The parts end ip going on every direction..Great Instructional video. I Always learn so much from you..
A little change of pace, from body work to electrical, I like it. The only question I have is what was that small box on top of your grinder with what looked like wheels going around inside of it?
Hi Michael, I'm planning to throw in a few of these types of video going forward, everything needs to be rebuilt, or freshened up, so it shouldn't be hard to get some video content. Lol That little box on top of the bench grinder is a wheel dresser...a poor excuse of one, but it does do the job.
Hi John, you may need to split the motor like I did to get at one of the screws, if the motor is stuck. Leaving the brush end of the motor alone unless you need open that end makes the job much easier. 🙂
I worked on the motors for my 64 Lincoln many years ago with exactly the same motor. I used two pieces of coat hanger to hold the brush wires which held the brushes away from the commutator. The coat hangers went down each side between the field coils. Your way looks better.
One more question: Your grinder had something in the center moving when it was on. What is that used for? Love the teflon plugs being made..Ingenious!!
Fantastic restoration on the motor and gear box!! I’m glad to see a rebuild vs a replacement. What about those little nylon wheels? Are those going to be replaced with your Teflon sheet? I would hate to see all that work done and have to tear back into the door because of those dad-gum wheels snapping on you. I have had to replace the drivers side window motor on my ‘03 Durango four times in the last 7 years because of those dang cheap plastic cable driven set up. So I have some motors sitting around with busted clips lol.
Thank you Troy, I have some of those track rollers on order too. My sons Grand Cherokee, they work decent in the warm weather, but problematic in the freezing cold, i've replace the drivers door setup a couple of times now.
Hi Alvin! Great video as usual. How did you preload the window regulator spring? My driver’s window motor is stuck so I’ll be replicating your process to fix it.
Hi Gordon, just set the spring place with the motor hanging, and when you run the motor onto the window regulator it will be loaded, you will need to apply some Forde by hand to start the motor gear into the window regulator...that is all the preload needed.
Hey Gordon...I just received my order from Bird Nest, and I'm going to do a video on installing the torque pucks, I will show how I install the spring and do the preload. I am planning to make that video today...I hope it helps. 😊
Been here many times on passenger window, goes to the bottom and sticks, 99 times out of 100 works fine. I know its binding and have adjusted everything , window slides. top & bottom stops , checked for play in regulator.Even had the motor rebuilt. Each time take of the door panel off and tap the motor with a hammer and it works fine. I have come to the conclusion either live with it OR drill a hole in bottom of door to put an socket extension up to hit the motor. [ Easy fix ] old cars some time its necessary. Only my opinion Gona do it this summer
Sorry, your comment got lost in the RUclips void. Lol If you are trying to get the three bolts out that hold the motor drive to the regulator, and your motor isn't working, you will need to remove the motor from the drive, then you can get at all three bolts. Just be aware that there could be tension on the regulator arms...if you can remove the coil spring first, then it's not an issue.
Thanks for your video. I have aftermarket electric motors that freeze up, a couple of medium taps and they work. any idea what the cause and how I can fix the problem? Thank you
That is inconvenient, when you say "a couple of medium taps", are you tapping the actual motors, or the switches in the console? I assume you are tapping the motors, and you still have your door panels off? Does this happen in any window position, or only when the window is fully closed? I had one of mine just a little too tight in the fully closed position, and that caused the motor to freeze, the motor was fine...just too much tension on it.
@@J_R_Shop closed or open, yes the panel is off , I hear the aftermarket motors are not very good. I was wondering if you new of any fixes on these motors. Thx for your reply.
@@dgomes4464 since it sticks in any position, I would be inclined to say, yes...the motor has issues, and having to tap it to start isn't very practical. The only suggestions I can offer, without taking it apart to see if there are bad connections, is to check the continuity between the ground and power pins at the plug when this happens (before you tap the motor), if the motor has a loss of continuity, then it has internal issues. This is a long shot, but I would also test the plug socket on the harness with the motor disconnected with a test light or multi-meter while using the window switches, to make sure you are getting good power (12v) though the harness side of the motor plug...there could be broken wire at the plug, and the tapping shakes it enough make contact.
I jumped in and pulled the driver's side door window regulator assembly as it was inoperable. After pulling is out, I powered up the motor and the motor worked. After mulling this for a bit, I decided to pull the motor off the regulator assembly and upon opening the gearbox, found the pinion gear to be worn badly in one area. I also found that there was not gasket between the gearbox and the regulator bracket. Perhaps that's why there was so much grease outside the gearbox. Did you experience this possibly missing gasket situation? I suspect someone either forgot to install it at the assembly plant or the assembly had been removed previously and the gasket got lost. Hopefully, the gear can be purchased so I can put it all back together with full funcionality.
Good for you Gordon! The only gasket I found in mine, is the gasket for the plastic cover over the worm gear, and Bird Nest sells that gear. If you haven't watched Nicks (Vintage Thunderbird Repair) video on the quarter window repair, I recommend you do...he explains the difference between the replacement gears, and what not to buy...The ones Bird Nest sells are the correct ones.
@@J_R_Shop Hi Alvin, yes, I purchased the new gear from BN. Works like a charm. Assembly all buttoned up and working great now. You might note, in case you're not aware, that when you reassemble the regulator assembly back into the door, it helps to remove the short guide that is on the inner panel. In doing so, it made it easier to keep the upper rollers in their guides during assembly. Just a tip I figured out while juggling multiple moving parts and trying not to lacerate the heck out of my forearms inside the door! Anyway, thanks again for your videos! All the best.
@@amillego that's awesome Gordon!! I haven't had to install the assembly back in the door yet, and this great info that will make life easier! Thank you! 😊
A change of pace. Interesting repair. You likely know this, but be careful with the teflon. It won’t hurt you unless it gets hot enough to smoke. A lab technician died near here when he machined a teflon block which got hot and smoked. I believe that the smoke can cause HFl in your lungs . . . bad stuff. A lot of people would likely have tossed that motor. That was a fine save!
Hey Alvin, thanks for the plug. The checks in the mail. You are so lucky that motor had NO rust, unbelievable! I was sure that when you pulled all that stuff out it would look like the rest of the car. You really dodged a bullet there. Nice job fixing the motor. I like the rim seal, think Ill pick up a can of that, great tip, thanks. I also like the name "torque plug," because that's exactly what they are. They help absorb the torque placed on the gear when the window hits its stop when it is all the way up or down so the motor doesn't lock up. This is why the spring gear doesn't work, they are not forgiving. 1 down and 3 more to go. Hopefully the other 3 are in just as rust free so you can rebuild those. Thanks.
Thank you Nick...you've seen what this car has been like, anytime I catch a break like no rust on something like this, is like a holiday! 😎
That was awesome! Great way to restore a big mess. You completely redid the whole mess and turned it into a brand new unit! Amazing job! Thanks so much for sharing this 👍😃 ARCO
Thank you Arco, these window motors are expensive...anything to save! 😎
Well done as usual !!! Very information about how the engineers designed this to protect the motor in the event of failure... back before the THROW AWAY DAYS we live in now. :)
Thank you Ron...yes, we are in a throw away culture here in North America!
Thanks for the videos Alvin. I bought the plastic inserts from birds nest and they were too big. The metal gear in the middle wouldn't go back in. So I made some out of a rod of delron.
Hey Kevin, the "torque plugs" (plastic inserts) from Birds Nest do fit but they are hard to put in, and the two gears should be pressed together. Maybe Ill do a video of how I got them in since its hard to explain here. In Alvins video, when he put his gear together he could move the steel part of the gear independently of the plastic part because the torque plugs he made were just slightly too small so there was some play between the two gears. This is incorrect, incorrect meaning not how the gear was designed originally, even though it may still work. I can't say it wont work because I've never tried using smaller plugs so one would only know once the motor, regulator and window are reinstalled into the car and see if the motor locks up. In the original setup from Ford, the metal part of the gear is very tight inside the plastic part of the gear with no play what so ever because the torque plugs are large enough to require the metal gear to be pressed into position into the plastic part. There should be no movement or play of any kind once they are pressed together. This is why they seem too big because the assembly needs to be pressed together. I don't mean with a big metal press, I mean by placing everything together and then pressing the metal gear down with a hammer or the palm or your hand or something like that. It is possible. Good luck.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 Thanks Nick!! You saved me again. I haven't put the motor/regulator back in the car yet. I'll pop it apart again and try the bird nest parts again. Thanks again for the antenna parts!
Thank you Kevin...I think Nick has our back on these things! 😊
@@classics289 Your welcome
Well done! I watched carefully and saved the video since I’m sure I’ll be doing this on my 66 someday.
Thank you...I am going to do a video on installing the correct torque plugs if I ever get them, I ordered enough for all the windows from Bird Nest, but they are stuck in LA...maybe soon!
Hey Alvin, maybe since you bought the torque plugs from Birds Nest, show everyone how you install them into the gear since your already there. Kevin made a good point here in the comments. Thanks.
I will make a short video installing the torque plug once I get them, now that I know they are suppose to be a snug fit...I won't be alarmed, and think I got the wrong ones. 🙂
It’s amazing what you can do. The Tbird is coming along well.
Thank you Steve!
Hello Alvin. Real nice job on that window regulator. Those "pucks" seem to deteriorate over age, also. I had to replace all four motor pucks in my 1991 Grand Marquis. It is a low mileage vehicle (less than 40K on the clock) when they failed. It surprised me as the older couple (previous owners) probably did not use the rear windows much. It uses the same motor setup as our T-birds. It's probably a good idea to repair all of the window motor gear boxes like you are doing. I have seen other guys use hex nuts in place of those pucks on other RUclips videos. Not a good idea. Thanks for showing this.
George B. in Michigan
Hi George, when I started looking up replacement pucks, I soon realized that Ford used the same ones in almost everything! I saw a guy using hex nuts for a fix, likely something else will break because the weak link has now moved.
I needed the drain plugs for the rockers, quarters, and wheelhouse extensions, so I just ordered them and the pucks...I should be good for a while now.
Thank you and stay safe!
Alvin
Good one. Enjoyed seeing how it's done.
Thank you Sierra John!
Sweet! As cold as it is in northern Canada you could probably use those small white marshmallows as they get hard in the cold....
You make a good point Mike, they would most definitely be rock hard in the cold!
Thank you for making this
You're welcome Machine Man!
Alvin,
Good going, my friend, money well saved. Poor ole Pearline doesn't have anything power, except me...not sure if that's good or bad. I look so forward to seeing that convertible take it's first post restoration drive.
Regards,
John
Thank you John, it was nice to be able to get the window motor up and running again without too much trouble...those suckers are pricey! I'm sure that between the convertible and the hardtop parts car, I would have been safe, and not have to buy any new motors.
Yes...the day this old girl rolls out onto the street again will be a good day!
Take care John!
Alvin
Wax and grease remover..How do you make your style?..Wow!! You have more courage then me..Everytime I take any type of electric motor apart. The parts end ip going on every direction..Great Instructional video. I Always learn so much from you..
I'll have to check my notes on the recipe. I'll get back to you.
A little change of pace, from body work to electrical, I like it. The only question I have is what was that small box on top of your grinder with what looked like wheels going around inside of it?
Hi Michael, I'm planning to throw in a few of these types of video going forward, everything needs to be rebuilt, or freshened up, so it shouldn't be hard to get some video content. Lol
That little box on top of the bench grinder is a wheel dresser...a poor excuse of one, but it does do the job.
Bom dia ali se faz de tudo também muito seus videos 👏👏
Obrigado Leonel!
I'm close to starting that repair. The pax window is frozen about 3 inches below the roof line. Your comments will be very helpful. Thanks again.
Hi John, you may need to split the motor like I did to get at one of the screws, if the motor is stuck. Leaving the brush end of the motor alone unless you need open that end makes the job much easier. 🙂
I worked on the motors for my 64 Lincoln many years ago with exactly the same motor. I used two pieces of coat hanger to hold the brush wires which held the brushes away from the commutator. The coat hangers went down each side between the field coils. Your way looks better.
Hey Jeff...it sounds like your method worked well also, they are tricky little devils to keep in place.
One more question: Your grinder had something in the center moving when it was on. What is that used for? Love the teflon plugs being made..Ingenious!!
Hi Daniel,
That is used for dressing the wheel surface, it's not a good one because it has no handle...but it works.
Fantastic restoration on the motor and gear box!! I’m glad to see a rebuild vs a replacement. What about those little nylon wheels? Are those going to be replaced with your Teflon sheet? I would hate to see all that work done and have to tear back into the door because of those dad-gum wheels snapping on you. I have had to replace the drivers side window motor on my ‘03 Durango four times in the last 7 years because of those dang cheap plastic cable driven set up. So I have some motors sitting around with busted clips lol.
Thank you Troy, I have some of those track rollers on order too. My sons Grand Cherokee, they work decent in the warm weather, but problematic in the freezing cold, i've replace the drivers door setup a couple of times now.
Hi Alvin! Great video as usual. How did you preload the window regulator spring? My driver’s window motor is stuck so I’ll be replicating your process to fix it.
Hi Gordon, just set the spring place with the motor hanging, and when you run the motor onto the window regulator it will be loaded, you will need to apply some Forde by hand to start the motor gear into the window regulator...that is all the preload needed.
Hey Gordon...I just received my order from Bird Nest, and I'm going to do a video on installing the torque pucks, I will show how I install the spring and do the preload. I am planning to make that video today...I hope it helps. 😊
Been here many times on passenger window, goes to the bottom and sticks, 99 times out of 100 works fine. I know its binding and have adjusted everything , window slides. top & bottom stops , checked for play in regulator.Even had the motor rebuilt. Each time take of the door panel off and tap the motor with a hammer and it works fine. I have come to the conclusion either live with it OR drill a hole in bottom of door to put an socket extension up to hit the motor. [ Easy fix ] old cars some time its necessary. Only my opinion Gona do it this summer
Hi Rick, it's funny how these old car seem to take on their own personality...so many little quirky things that crop up.
The spring loaded window motors, have a different connection for the armature and how do you disconnect it to clean all that?
Sorry, your comment got lost in the RUclips void. Lol
If you are trying to get the three bolts out that hold the motor drive to the regulator, and your motor isn't working, you will need to remove the motor from the drive, then you can get at all three bolts. Just be aware that there could be tension on the regulator arms...if you can remove the coil spring first, then it's not an issue.
Thanks for your video. I have aftermarket electric motors that freeze up, a couple of medium taps and they work. any idea what the cause and how I can fix the problem? Thank you
That is inconvenient, when you say "a couple of medium taps", are you tapping the actual motors, or the switches in the console? I assume you are tapping the motors, and you still have your door panels off?
Does this happen in any window position, or only when the window is fully closed? I had one of mine just a little too tight in the fully closed position, and that caused the motor to freeze, the motor was fine...just too much tension on it.
@@J_R_Shop closed or open, yes the panel is off , I hear the aftermarket motors are not very good. I was wondering if you new of any fixes on these motors. Thx for your reply.
@@dgomes4464 since it sticks in any position, I would be inclined to say, yes...the motor has issues, and having to tap it to start isn't very practical.
The only suggestions I can offer, without taking it apart to see if there are bad connections, is to check the continuity between the ground and power pins at the plug when this happens (before you tap the motor), if the motor has a loss of continuity, then it has internal issues.
This is a long shot, but I would also test the plug socket on the harness with the motor disconnected with a test light or multi-meter while using the window switches, to make sure you are getting good power (12v) though the harness side of the motor plug...there could be broken wire at the plug, and the tapping shakes it enough make contact.
I jumped in and pulled the driver's side door window regulator assembly as it was inoperable. After pulling is out, I powered up the motor and the motor worked. After mulling this for a bit, I decided to pull the motor off the regulator assembly and upon opening the gearbox, found the pinion gear to be worn badly in one area. I also found that there was not gasket between the gearbox and the regulator bracket. Perhaps that's why there was so much grease outside the gearbox. Did you experience this possibly missing gasket situation? I suspect someone either forgot to install it at the assembly plant or the assembly had been removed previously and the gasket got lost. Hopefully, the gear can be purchased so I can put it all back together with full funcionality.
Good for you Gordon! The only gasket I found in mine, is the gasket for the plastic cover over the worm gear, and Bird Nest sells that gear. If you haven't watched Nicks (Vintage Thunderbird Repair) video on the quarter window repair, I recommend you do...he explains the difference between the replacement gears, and what not to buy...The ones Bird Nest sells are the correct ones.
@@J_R_Shop Hi Alvin, yes, I purchased the new gear from BN. Works like a charm. Assembly all buttoned up and working great now. You might note, in case you're not aware, that when you reassemble the regulator assembly back into the door, it helps to remove the short guide that is on the inner panel. In doing so, it made it easier to keep the upper rollers in their guides during assembly. Just a tip I figured out while juggling multiple moving parts and trying not to lacerate the heck out of my forearms inside the door! Anyway, thanks again for your videos! All the best.
@@amillego that's awesome Gordon!! I haven't had to install the assembly back in the door yet, and this great info that will make life easier! Thank you! 😊
A change of pace. Interesting repair. You likely know this, but be careful with the teflon. It won’t hurt you unless it gets hot enough to smoke. A lab technician died near here when he machined a teflon block which got hot and smoked. I believe that the smoke can cause HFl in your lungs . . . bad stuff. A lot of people would likely have tossed that motor. That was a fine save!
Thank you Stephen...it is a nice change of pace, and it all needs to get done at some point.